Category: Puerto Vallarta

The Birdmen of the Beach

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Walking along the Malecón, in Puerto Vallarta, there is no shortage of free entertainment.

Bartenders and waitresses, line dance on the sidewalk to entice you to enter.

Renaissance figures mysteriously float over the sidewalk.

Shiny Mexican outlaws decorate the benches.

Statues pour water.

They are all there to entertain you and make a quick peso!

As we strolled along the boardwalk, at the noon hour, I noticed a tall pole in the distance.  There was movement at the top and as we neared, I realized that there were five men perched atop this pole.  Searching my memory, I realized that I had seen this before somewhere else in Mexico.

These were the Mexican pole flyers (or birdmen, as they are sometimes known) who perform Voladores de Papantla, the Ritual of the Voladores.

Persuading my children that we should wait, we found a shady spot under a palm tree and watched the brightly dressed men prepare for their ceremony.

The dance of the flyers is a Mesoamerican ceremony in which five participants climb to the top of a thirty foot pole.  Suspended by ropes wound around the top of the pole, four of the flyers, representing the four directions and the elements of air, water, earth and fire, fall backward off of the pole and then fly through the air upside down, sometimes in elegant birdlike poses, as they are rotated thirteen times and lowered to the ground.  The fifth dancer, playing a drum and a flute, remains at the top.

According to legend, this ceremony was created to ask the gods to stop droughts in ancient times, but is now a recognized historical and cultural dance that is kept alive by communities to honor the historical traditions and rituals of ancient cultures. Voladores de Papantla ceremony was named an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 2009, in order to help the ritual survive and thrive in the modern world and may be seen in various areas throughout the country.

A school for flyer children was established in Takilhsukut Park on Tecolutla, Mexico, where formal instruction is given on ceremony.  Flyers must spend ten to twelve years in preparation before participation in an event and women are prohibited from performing.   Sometimes a dangerous event, there are many deaths each year due to poorly knotted ropes and other types of improper preparations.

We were all mesmerized as we watched the colorful flyers wind their way down to the beach below, wondering aloud how they were able to stand after the continuous spinning!

The large crowd that had gathered, rightly erupted into applause for the performers at the end of their performance.  Truly an unforgettable experience!

Needless to say…the hat that was passed, gathered many a peso!

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Los Voladores

  • The pole is on the beach adjacent to the Malecón, directly opposite Senor Frogs nightclub & the flyers perform throughout the day.
  • Tip generously!!!

 

Shut Up and Fish!

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When you head to one of the greatest deep sea fishing locations in the Pacific…well…

you FISH!

While in Puerto Vallarta, my husband decided that we absolutely needed to book a fishing trip.  Checking around on the internet, we had yet to make a decision on a charter and were lying around on the beach, when we were approached by a gentleman offering to take us out on his boat.

After speaking with him a bit about the expedition, he seemed sincere and we decided to book the trip with him.  Paying him a $100 deposit, we arranged to meet him the next morning at the nearby marina.  A little later, however, I must admit, that the idea that he may have just collected money from us and would not actually show entered my mind!  Probably not the savviest decision on my part!

A quick cab ride the next morning, while the sun was rising, deposited us at the marina and thankfully, Hector was there…loading up his boat and waiting for us!

Boarding Hector’s thirty-six foot cabin cruiser, The Miramar, we made ourselves comfortable and were soon motoring out of the harbor into the open water.

As the sun ascended, the calm blue water spread before us like an open road.  Half asleep, we suddenly heard the captain shout.  Opening our eyes and following his gaze, we spotted spray shooting up from the ocean’s surface.  A Bryde’s whale was breaking the surface and we spied it’s slender, bluish-grey body make its way through the water.  It surfaced and dove a few times before we were unable to locate it any longer.  Such excitement!  Not to be outdone, a pod of bottle nose dolphin decided that it would be fun to follow the boat.  More fun for us as we watched them from the confines of our craft.

Excitement aside, Hector began placing the fishing rods in their holders at the rear of the boat…five in all…trailing the lures in the dark blue water behind us.

It didn’t take long…the bonitas were biting!  A strong, fighting fish, we all took turns struggling to pull them in one by one, even though they were not the largest fish we had ever caught.  A few Spanish mackerel even took the bait!  Pretty soon, the sun was high, the air was warm and our live well was teeming with a multitude of fish.

After three full hours of fishing, it was finally time to turn and make the return hour-long journey.  One of the best parts of the day, however, was yet to come.  Unable to take our catch home with us, Hector had brought the necessities to make cerviche.  We marveled as he made quick work of cleaning our haul throwing the entrails out into the water…the seagulls swooping in for a free meal.

We watched, mouths watering, as he chopped red onions, white onions, jalapeno, tomatoes, cucumbers and limes.  Letting the concoction marinate for a bit, it was soon time to taste the fruit of Hector’s labor…

Muy delicioso!  Hector’s cerviche was spicy and probably the best I had ever tasted!  SO good that I had to steal his recipe (which I fixed when I got home with some fresh fish we caught in our lake)!

Enjoying our light lunch, we sailed back into the marina.  Our fishing adventure had come to an end!  Thanking (and tipping) Hector and his captain, we gathered our belongings and disembarked The Miramar, hopping onto a local bus for the short journey back to our hotel.

Though we did not venture out for an entire day’s trip, nor did we catch any larger game fish, the journey out on the Bay of Banderas was a fun and exciting one!

Things to keep in mind…

A valid Mexican Sport Fishing License is required before fishing in Mexican waters.  Fishing license are usually included in the booking price (as ours was) or can be purchased from the charter operator.

One rod per person in the water at all times.

It is prohibited to sell the catch.

You need to be at least 250 meters away from swimmers in order to practice sporfishing.

For smaller fish, expect to book a four or five hour charter and remain in the Bay of Banderas.  For larger, sport fish, expect to book a full day’s charter and a lot more time in the boat making your way out to the fishing grounds.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Puerto Vallarta Fishing Charters

 

The Crown of Puerto Vallarta

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In many Mexican cities, you will find in the heart of that city…a square dominated by a church.

Puerto Vallarta is no different, though the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe sits on a smaller square, nestled away between many buildings.  Called “one of the most endearing” of the city’s landmarks, it’s wrought-iron crown can be spied almost anywhere throughout the city and one that I absolutely wanted to visit during my visit to this coastal Mexican city.

In 1903, there was a small chapel located in the current location, dedicated to the Virgin Guadalupe, however, foundations were beginning to be laid for the current church.  With the arrival of Father Francisco Ayala in 1915, it was suggested that the foundations be expanded for a larger temple than had been planned.

Walls and pillars were finished by 1917, however construction began in earnest in the early 1920’s.  Though construction was halted temporarily in 1926, due to the Cristero War, it was resumed in 1930 with the addition of the dome.  The entire building was completed in 1940 with the exception of the two towers.  The chancel and organ were installed in 1951 and the main tower, topped with the wrought-iron crown, finally in 1952.

Although it has been speculated that the crown was designed to resemble one worn by Empress Carlota of Mexico, this has been found to be untrue.  To “crown” the Parish, the current crown was placed on the main tower in 1965 and was designed by José Esteban Ramírez Guareño.

When walking through the city, you can see how beloved this landmark is as it is depicted in photos, shirts, logos and postcards.  Many congregate near and in front of the church and you can hear the church bells rung by the sextants 30 and 15 minutes prior to each service.  If you are lucky enough to be in Puerto Vallarta during Our Lady of Guadalupe Festival (Feast of Guadalupe, December 1 through December 12), you will notice that the bell ringing and and festivities reach a frenzied level.  Processions advance through the streets, including dancing warriors, banners, music, singing and colorful floats depicting scenes of the Virgin and Juan Diego, the Indian peasant that she appeared to in 1531.  Thousands of visitors descend upon the city and the streets are lined with vendors selling food, sweets, souvenirs, toys and more.

Take the time to admire the church from the square and other vantage points, however, be sure to take a moment to attend mass or just take a look around between services.  The architecture is a mix of various styles…neoclassical, renaissance, baroque.  The interior design is a tribute to the original Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City.  Particular attention should be paid the to the idolized image of Our Lady of Guadalupe and a 1945 oil replica by Guadalajaran artist Ignacio Ramirez.  Beautiful religious images are painted on wood throughout the structure, carved wooden confessionals stand proud and waiting and the elaborate marble altar are the main focus of the church.

There is much love and devotion in the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe.  When visiting Puerto Vallarta, be sure to make it a priority!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Our Lady of Guadalupe

  • http://parroquiadeguadalupevallarta.com/
  • Address:  Calle Hidalgo 370, Centro, 48300 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico
  • Mass Schedule:  Monday-Friday, 0730, 1200, 1900.  Saturday, 0730, 1200, 1700, 1800, 1930, 2030.  Sunday, 0630, 0800, 1000, 1200, 1830, 1930, 2030

Unplanned Puerto Vallarta

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Twenty-four years ago, fresh off a visit to a Sandals resort, my husband and I were lured by the call of the all-inclusive resorts of Puerto Vallarta. Looking to enjoy another comprehensive vacation, we set off from our home to Los Angeles and then on to Puerto Vallarta.

A lengthy cab ride deposited us at our resort and we quickly changed into our swimsuits, eager to enjoy the amenities.

“Oh, you would like to book the dive trip for tomorrow, senora?  We are sorry, the boat is broken.”

“Oh, you would like to go to the disco tonight, senor?  We are sorry, the disco is being renovated and is closed…indefinitely.”

And the list went on.  Nothing worked.  Nothing was nice.  And the food?  Don’t get me started.  This was definitely not anything that could compare to Sandals.

A phone call was made to our booking agency that afternoon and we were promised a refund after we informed them that we were leaving the next day.

Three months and the threat of a lawsuit finally got our money back.  So, whenever someone mentioned going to Puerto Vallarta…it kind of turned my stomach.  Nothing against the city itself.  That dreadful resort had just ruined it for me.  I had the mentality of “been there, did that” and I never really wanted to go back.

Trying to figure out plans for spring break is always tricky for airline employees as we fly on a stand-by basis and my son has limited time-off due to his baseball schedule. I watch flights for days-on-end, trying to decipher which will end up with seats both to and from tropical destinations.  And, though we prefer a tropical destinations, I only told my boys that I would get them somewhere…even if it wasn’t their top choice.

Mother nature, however, had another plan.  No one would could have prepared for the weather problems encountered that week, causing massive disruptions to flight schedules.  Knowing that we would never get out of our hometown to one of my airlines’ hubs, we jumped in a rental car and made the eight hour drive to Atlanta, where I knew there were many flight originations and many customer’s flights that would not make it the next day due to the continuing cancellations.

 My hunch was correct.  As I watched three destinations the next morning, all with multiple flights and all with availability at hotels that we had earmarked, seats on those flights slowly began to open up.  Quickly, we had to make a decision.  We would try one of the earliest, leaving us with other options later in the day.  My vote was for Punta Cana, but my boys wanted to try…Puerto Vallarta.

Waiting to reserve the hotel, my husband hit the “Book” button only when we had been given our seat assignments and the door to the aircraft was closed.  Whew!  We had made it onto a flight!  But…what was it going to be like?

Four hours later, I was admiring the blue water and surrounding lush mountainsides as we were touching down at Licenciado Gustavo Díaz Ordaz International Airport.

A swift cab ride from the airport had us arriving at the Hilton’s Puerto Vallarta All-Inclusive Resort, not long after our arrival and we were lounging on the beach, cocktails in hand, by two-thirty.  Sunny skies and blue water!  What more could you ask for?

Needless to say, we absolutely LOVED this resort…everything worked, our room was upgraded, the service was amazing and the food and drinks, divine!

Happy to have a resort that met our expectations, there was one other thing…I wanted to see this place that I never really got to see.

The next morning, I decided that I would head into town.  Gathering advice and instruction from the concierge, I hailed a cab with my boys and headed to the center of Puerto Vallarta and its Malecón, the twelve-block boardwalk along the waterfront.

The Malecón was renovated in 2011, making it more pedestrian friendly.  The waterfront area is filled with beautiful sculpture, restaurants, bars, museums, free shows, duty-free shopping and souvenir shops.  As we made our way south, we took lots of pictures, shopped, made friends and visited Our Lady of Guadaloupe cathedral, the city’s endearing landmark with its wrought-iron crown tower.

The area felt extremely safe and was exceptionally clean.  The local people were very friendly and helpful…just beware, they might spot your wristband and tell you that they met you the night before at your resort, just to lure you in.  I was stupid enough to fall for that one!

Though we only spent about three hours enjoying this area, we agreed to come back and bring my husband so that he could also see what he had missed.

Counting out twenty-one pesos, we decided to take the city bus back to the hotel.  I love traveling the way locals do…my children…not so much.  Still, it was a cheap way to travel and was surprising easy.

There was more fun to experience later in Puerto Vallerta, but this was a great beginning!  So happy that we gave it another chance!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Puerto Vallarta

  • http://visitpuertovallarta.com/
  • http://www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/jalisco/hilton-puerto-vallarta-resort-PVRPVHF/index.html
  • Getting There/Airport-Hotel:  Cabs are regulated and can be arranged prior to exiting the airport.  Approximate taxi fare to our hotel, in a van for four people, was approximately $30.  Return fare from hotel, was $10.
  • Getting There/Malecón:  From the Hilton (near marina) a cab cost about $5.00 US.  The cabdriver will give you an amount in pesos and will also give an amount in US dollars.  The bus is about 7 pesos (about $.40 US) and though a bit of a rough ride, very safe and easy to ride.