Tag: landmarks

Vibrant Verona

©2023 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

While visiting Venice is an amazing experience, after having been there many times, one gets the itch to see other cities in the region. Having already taken the train to Padua a few years prior, I was planning on seeing some other nearby cities. On this particular day, however, realizing that we had arrived a little earlier than normal, I decided to venture out a little further…to Verona.

Verona is one of the main tourist destinations in northern Italy, situated on the Adige River and known as the setting for two of William Shakespeare’s plays, Romeo and Juliet and The Two Gentlemen of Verona. Because of its artistic heritage and opera season staged in its Roman amphitheater, it attracts millions of visitors each year.

Ruled by the della Scala family during the 13th and 14th century, the city was extremely prosperous during their reign and this wealth can be spied throughout its boundaries today; in its monuments, walls and architecture and more. While I was aware that many tourists head straight to Juliet’s House and Museum, one of the most famous places in the city, I decided to do this as well, but also to see the other aspects that make this UNESCO World Heritage Site so special.

After the hour and ten minute train ride, I quickly ducked into a station shop to purchase a face mask for the return trip or for any other attraction which might require it. During my train ride, I had realized that KN95 face masks were still required on public transportation when conductors removed five British travelers at the stop prior to Verona’s Porta Nuova station. While I had a regular surgical mask, I realized that it was not enough and was thankful that I went unnoticed.

Verona Train Station

Thankful that crisis had been averted, I set out to walk to the city center, first stopping at the Porta Nuova (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=30718), the city’s old gate. Stopping for a few photos, I then continued on Corso Porta Nuova past Giardini Pradaval and its sculptures and statues, the Lapidary Museum Maffeiano and I Portoni della Bra the historic gate that once divided the city from the countryside and connects the Porta Nuova railway station to Piazza Bra. While I felt welcomed by the city gate Porta Nuova, it was when I walked through the arches of I Portoni della Bra that I felt as though I was truly entering the city and readied myself for the city’s beauty.

Porta Nuova Gate
Giardini Pradaval
Lapidary Museum Maffeiano
I Portoni della Bra
I Portoni della Bra

Having planned to see the amphitheater, I decided to take a detour and walk toward the river and the Castelvecchio Museum, since its opening hours were fewer. Making my way across its intimidating drawbridge into the courtyard, I then headed inside to make my way through its major Italian art collections distributed over twenty-nine rooms. Sculpture, paintings, ancient weapons, ceramics, goldsmiths, miniatures and ancient city bells were artfully displayed throughout the castle which dates back to the mid 1300s. While it was built as a residence for the della Scala family, it was mainly used for the military defense of the city and that is evident by its towering walls and battlements.

Castelvecchio Exterior
Castelvecchio Entrance

While I enjoyed my walk through the castle’s interior, what I really wanted to do was investigate the courtyards, the battlements and the clock tower. Climbing up the stairway, I made my way first to the rear of the castle and was rewarded with stunning views of the river and the Scaligero Bridge. It was a beautiful day and being out on the walls was the perfect place to be! Some of the passageways were a bit narrow but easy to navigate and to reach the seven towers. From the front of the castle, the views of the city, the large courtyard, the clock tower and the small courtyard beneath the tower were so stunning that I could have stayed up there all day. Finally, I passed through the adjacent walkway to the bridge and took a quick stroll across so that I could say “I did”.

Scaligero Bridge

If I was going to see everything, however, it was time to move on and I decided to continue my path along the Corso Cavour, which follows the river. A short stroll later, I passed the Arco dei Gavi, a massive, ancient white-marble arch which was was used as a gate in the walls during the Middle Ages. During the Napoleonic rule, French engineers demolished it and its ruins were moved to a square and then to the arena. In 1932, the arch was reconstructed, under Mussolini’s rule, in its current spot next to the Castelvecchio, very near its original location.

Arco dei Gavi

A little further down the road, I happened upon the Basilica di San Lorenzo. As I always make time for a church, I spent a few moments walking through this 12th structure. Built in the Romanesque style on the remains of a 5th or 6th century paleo-Christian building, using some of the original materials, it was interesting to see the two different types of building materials stemming from the different phases of construction…alternating brick and stone which gives the interior a striking pattern of strips in the columns and the walls and apse. Listening in to a tour guide’s spiel, I also learned that a unique feature is the presence of the women’s galleries, still intact and open onto three sides. Though my stop was a quick one, I was glad to see this beautiful church.

Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Chiesa di San Lorenzo Exterior
Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Chiesa di San Lorenzo
Chiesa di San Lorenzo

Near the Ponte della Vittoria, I decided to move into the city center as there was more to see in that domain. A few minutes later, I passed under the impressive Porta Borsari, the arched limestone gate, which dates back to the 1st century and served as the main entrance to the city.

Porta Borsari

There were many more churches, including the Church of St. Eufemia; some open, some closed for the afternoon, and as I spied many balconies, I thought of Juliet’s House, which I had planned to visit…whenever I got there! But of course, there was so much to see along the way!

Other churches in Verona

Glancing at my watch, I decided to snatch a few moments at the Church of San Giovanni in Foro. A minor church, it was built on what was the main Roman road. Badly damaged by fire in 1172, while much of Verona was destroyed, its restoration in the early 1900s led to the discovery that Roman walls had been incorporated into the external walls of the church. It was small and dimly lit, but its beautiful mosaics, stone walls and ancient paintings made me glad that I had stumbled upon this gem.

Church of San Giovanni in Foro
Church of San Giovanni in Foro

Continuing on, I finally made my way to the beautiful Piazza delle Erbe, which was once the center of the city’s political and economic life. There were many market stalls hawking souvenirs and food, but there were lots of statues, fountains and other landmarks to see. More importantly, the square is surrounded by many buildings and monuments that have marked the history of Verona…City Hall, Lamberti Tower, the Houses of Mazzanti, Maffei Palace, the Gardello Tower and the Casa dei Mercanti (Merchant’s House). What I loved most, however, was the ancient fountain (circa 1368) with its roman statue, Madonna Verona, built by Bonino da Campione, which stands proudly in the center of the square and welcomes visitors to investigate its history.

Piazza delle Erbe
Piazza delle Erbe
Piazza delle Erbe
Madonna Verona
Piazza delle Erbe

My goodness…what wasn’t there to see? I love everything about Rome and its “in your face architecture”, but the simplicity of Verona with the minor details that begged you to slow down and savor it was unlike anything I had ever experienced in Italy. Everywhere I laid my eyes, there was stunning construction, architectural details on every building, including balconies upon which other Italian ladies, like the fictional Juliet, may have stood, conversing down to their young paramours.

Finding my way to the Scaliger Tombs, I decided that I needed to enter the premises so that I could see these stunning tombs at close range. After paying my entrance fee, I was given a handout to guide me through the small courtyard. Each of the elaborate tombs were unique and some just outright ostentatious. While passerby could get a glimpse through the iron bars of all of the tombs, I thought it much better to see their beauty unobstructed.

Scaliger Tombs

These five funerary monuments celebrate the Scaliger family who ruled in Verona from the 13th to the late 14th century. Located in a wrought-iron fenced enclosure of the church of Santa Maria Antica, these Gothic tombs were constructed for the wealthy members of the noble Scaliger dynasty who ruled as the Lords of Verona; Cangrande I, Mastino II, Cansignorio, Alberto II and Giovanni.

Scaliger Tombs
Scaliger Tombs
Scaliger Tombs

The church was open and I was given a covering for my shoulders as I entered. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before leaving.

Santa Maria Antica

Finally, next on the list was the famed Juliet’s House, a short walk away. As expected, after walking through the short corridor to the courtyard, I found it extremely crowded with other visitors. Everyone was jockeying for position and waiting for their chance to pose with the bronze statue of Juliet. Noting the balcony above, and those also posing there for photographs, I figured out which door to enter to pay my admission.

Juliet’s House
Juliet’s House

Inside, there were statues paying homage to Shakespeare, another bronze statue of Juliet, period furniture and the bed and Renaissance costumes from Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film version of Romeo and Juliet. The wooden floors and artfully decorated ceilings were extremely cozy, although very roomy, depicting the wealth of the Capello family (from which the name Capulet was derived). Eventually, I was able to step out onto the balcony and also pose for a photo, but I was interested to find that even though the house dates back to 13th century, the balcony was only added during the 20th century.

Juliet’s House
Juliet’s House
Juliet’s House

On my way out, I noticed the red mailbox, which collects the letters “to Juliet” from visitors. Remembering the 2010 movie Letters to Juliet, I smiled at the messages visible in the small window in the center, glancing around, wondering where the women who volunteer to answer them were.

Just up the road, I happened upon Porta Leoni, the ancient gate that was built during the Roman Republic and features a double façade and two towers. Adjacent, below the street level are amazing Roman excavations.

Porta Leoni

The afternoon was dwindling away and although I had seen so much during my afternoon visit to Verona, I still wanted to see the amphitheater. Deciding to walk along the river in order to make navigation back to Corso Porta Nuova a little easier, I was stopped in my tracks by an imposing church on the corner.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore
Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

Oh, I was here and I couldn’t resist, so I went in, hoping I had enough time for everything else on my list…namely the amphitheater. The church was still open and I paid my admission, following the handout offered to me, which guided me to both the Upper and Lower churches.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore
Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

Starting with the Lower church, I traversed the ancient staircase to reach the first and oldest cloister of the complex. Here, I marveled at the decorated ribbed vaults and frescoed columns which divided the space. Of particular note was the early 14th century fresco depicting the Virgin seated on a throne with baby Jesus and a 12th century fresco of the Baptism of Jesus. There is a tombstone of jurist Antonio Pelacani, who died in 1327, showing him teaching his students and another of scholar Master Omobono, built in 1330. In the presbytery, there is a wooden crucifix from the 14th century and in the right transept, the stone upon which saints Fermo and Rustico were beheaded.

Lower Church
Lower Church
Lower Church
Lower Church
Lower Church

Back upstairs in the Upper church, I found it to be a massive and towering space. Again, crumbling frescoes decorated the walls and a large wooden door was topped with a fresco of the Crucifixion of Christ. The single nave church contained five apses and of particular interest was the Della Torre altar, from the 18th century, Our Lady’s Chapel (1613), which contains a some significant paintings and the presbytery with its marble altar, created by Schiavi, on which the relics of Saints Fermo and Rustico are kept.

Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church
Upper Church

There were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel. Upper ChurchThere were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel.

Sadly, I had saved the amphitheater for last and it was not meant to be.

This time…

With so much to see in Verona, I was impressed with what I had undertaken and experience in a single afternoon. As there is much more enjoy in Verona, I realized that I would definitely return in the near future.

Pulling my KN95 mask from my bag…it was time to make that train.

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Castelvecchio Museum

  • https://museodicastelvecchio.comune.verona.it/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=42545
  • Address: Corso Castelvecchio, 2, Verona, Italy
  • Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000 to1800. Last entrance at 1715. Closed Mondays, December 24, January 1.
  • Admission: Adults, €6.00 (+ €.60 online presale), Children (ages 8-14 years), €1.00 (+€.10 online presale). Free admission for residents of 65 years in the Municipality of Verona, persons with disabilities and their companion, children up to 7 years, holders of the VeronaCard.

Arco dei Gavi

Basilica di San Lorenzo

Porta Borsari

  • Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 57A, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Chiesa di San Giovanni in Foro

  • Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 20, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: hours unknown
  • Admission: free

Piazza delle Erbe

Scaliger Tombs

  • Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: €3 (unverified)

Juliet’s House

Porta Leoni

  • Address: Via Leoni, 37100 Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours daily
  • Admission: free

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

  • https://www.chieseverona.it/it/le-chiese/la-chiesa-di-san-fermo
  • Address: Corte S. Elena, Piazza Duomo 35, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
  • Hours: Monday to Friday, 1100-1800, Saturday, 0930-1800, Sunday, 1300-1800
  • Admission: Single entry €4. Entry to four churches, San Fermo, San Zeno, Cathedral Complex and Santa Anastasia, Basilica of San Zeno, the Cathedral Complex, the Basilica of Santa Anastasia, €8

Island Style

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are many architectural highlights that visitors must check out while in Key West.

Hemingway House, Truman’s Little White House, Key West Lighthouse…just to name a few.

While these are amazing attractions, one of the best things to do is set out on foot and discover all of the small historic sites that are scattered throughout the city. As my husband and I made our way throughout the island, we encountered many homes, theaters, bars, churches, boats, gardens and other structures that give Key West its charm and style.

Shopping

You can start emptying your pocketbook in Mallory Square. There are a great many souvenir shops located here as well as local vendors, street performers and live music. The Key West Aquarium is positioned here and it is the starting point for the Old Town Trolley Tours. If setting out on foot is not your forte, then hop on board the trolley and see the city! If you do decide to take your own walking tour, make sure to watch out for the markers on some of the historic sites. You can call the number listed at the bottom of the marker for free audio description.

Restaurants and Bars

Just around the corner from Mallory Square your will find El Meson De Pepe restaurant. While the Cuban food was good, what I enjoyed most was the interior. The restaurant is filled with murals and art by Mario Sanchez, information on author Jose Marti and even an antique airplane hanging above diners! Since I had been to Cuba a few months prior, it felt very familiar and comfortable.

Sloppy Joe’s Bar and Restaurant is a favorite on Duval Street. Touted as a Key West tradition, it is usually filled with revelers until the early hours of the morning. Because of Covid restrictions, it was extremely quiet while we were visiting as was many of the numerous bars and restaurants that line the famed street. However, we have been there on other visits and it is one of the highlights if partying is your thing!

Churches

The Basilica of St. Mary Star of the Sea was one of the churches that I had marked high on my to-do list while in Key West. Adjacent to the Convent of Mary Immaculate, built by the Sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus and Mary in 1878, the church dates back to 1905. The church is a single nave structure and decorated quite simply with touches of gold and light blue, paying homage to the sea. There is a beautiful stained glass window located above the altar and some nice sculptures scattered throughout. Since the church is not air conditioned, the many sets of double doors that line each side of the church are opened for the comfort of the parishioners.

As we walked down Duval Street, we encountered St. Paul’s Episcopal Church. Though we only were able to admire the structure from the outside, we did learn that this church was preceded by three others on this historic site. The first and third was destroyed by hurricanes in 1846 and 1909 and the second was devastated by the Great Fire of 1886. This church was completed in 1919 and designed to stand the test of time and nature.

Historical Homes

On many of Key West’s main and side streets, you can find beautiful, historic homes of great significance. Whitehead Street boasts the Philip L. Cosgrove House, dating back to 1872. This house once belonged to Captain Philip L. Cosgrove, Sr. who commanded the U.S. lighthouse tender Mangrove, the first rescue ship to aid victims of the 1898 explosion of the U.S.S. Maine in Havana harbor. Incorporating the former house of federal judge James Locke, the house was expanded to two and a half stories in the Greek Revival style.

A few steps away from the Cosgrove House is the William Lowe Delaney/Theodore Holtsberg House which has a long line of owners dating back to 1844. The first owner, Benjamin Sawyer, built the first house on the property for his family and also used the structure for Key West’s port business until the completion of the Customs House. The next owner, Deputy Custom Collector William Lowe Delaney bought the property from Sawyer’s widow and built the house that stands today, a two story, Queen Anne revival with an asymmetrical floor plan. The home was transferred to Lavinia Artolozaga in 1918 upon Delaney’s death, and then again in 1925 to Romanian immigrant Theodore Holtsbert, one of the island’s first Jewish immigrants. Today, the home is part of the Banyan resort.

At the head of Whitehead Street is the Audubon House and Tropical Gardens. The house was built in 1830 by Captain John H. Geiger, pilot and master wrecker. The house was dedicated in 1960 by Mitchell Wolfson, to act as public museum to be named Audubon House commemorating John James Audubon’s visit to the island in 1832 to study the key’s birds.

Alexander Cruz/Julia Gardner House is located on the corner of Eaton and Whitehead Streets. A three story cigar factory was built on the site in 1889 by the Cruz Brothers, Andres, Alexander and Jose. Acting as a business and residence for the family the cigar factory was then bought by Alexander in 1900 where he then erected a two and a half story Neoclassical home in 1904. Fourteen years later, Julia Gardner, daughter of prominent land owner Richard Henry Albury, purchased the residence and lived there for thirty years.

On Duval Street, the Martin Hellings House was constructed in 1892 by Captain Martin L. Hellings and is one of only a few homes that was not built during the Civil War. Hellings, accepted the position of cable manager of the International Ocean Telegraph Company in Key West, an important position as telegraphs were the means of rapid long distance communication. Upon his death in 1908, the house was converted into offices and then purchased by the Key West Woman’s Club which later converted it into a public library.

Government Buildings and Museums

One of the most beautiful landmarks in Key West is located on Duval street. Founded in 1871 by Cuban exiles as an educational, civic and patriotic center, the multi-purpose facility serves as a museum, library, art gallery, theater and school. The famed Jose Marti united the exile community in 1892 and affectionately referred to the San Carlos as “La Casa Cuba”.

On Simonton, between Eaton and Caroline Streets, you can find the Federal Courthouse, which also houses the Social Security Administration and U.S. District Court. The building, as evidenced by the wording on the face of the building, acted as the Customs House.

On Front Street, you can find the Key West Museum of Art and History at the Custom House, built in 1891, which also acted as the island’s custom office, postal service and district courts. This four story construction was built in the Romanesque style and was the site of many significant historical events. In later years, it was transferred to the United States Navy and then abandoned for almost twenty years. It was purchased by the State of Florida in 1991 and leased to the Key West Art and Historical Society for use as a museum. Visitors can now experience two floors of exhibitions which tell the tale of Key West’s history, art and people.

The Monroe County Courthouse, located on Fleming Street, was completed in 1890 in a traditional county courthouse style and features a 100 foot tall clock tower that can be seen from almost any part of the island. Make sure to check out the massive Kapok (or Ceilba tree), located in front of the courthouse.

The Southernmost House holds the distinction of being (yes, you guessed it) the southernmost house in the United States. The house is located near the Southernmost Point attraction and although it acts as a hotel, it also acts as a museum with displays of collections of important and interesting documents, many signed by presidents of the United States, including John F. Kennedy’s inaugural address. Even if you don’t have time to visit the museum, take the time to inspect this impressive Queen Anne Victorian architectural gem.

If you are a maritime enthusiast, you can visit the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Ingham Maritime Museum, on the waterfront near Fort Zachary Taylor. The museum ship served during WWII and Vietnam and is the most decorated ship in the United States service. It was the last American Warship afloat to have sunk a German U-Boat and you can learn about its illustrious history in its exhibit room. We took a quick picture in front of the cutter, however, we planned to return at the end of the day on Friday or Saturday…this ship is known for being one of the best places to view the beautiful Key West sunsets…and it serves wine and beer!

Other Historic Structures and Attractions

If you are an Ernest Hemingway fan, of course, you would visit his former home. If that leaves you wanting more, take a walk on Simonton Street and check out the Old Trev-more Hotel where Hemingway and his wife stayed in 1928. It was here where he penned Farewell to Arms from his second story room. In 1978, the hotel was converted to a private residence and renamed Casa Antigua.

There are two prominent art-deco style theaters in the historic district of Key West. The Key West Theater, originally built in 1848 as the First Baptist Church of Key West, has also operated as a dance club and concert venue. Today, it now operates as a performing arts center.

Further down Eaton Street is Tropic Cinema. Of the two, this is the one to take a moment to see. Showing independent movies on four screens, this cinema’s exterior is beautifully styled with neon signs and a statue of Marilyn Monroe standing over a vent, dress blowing surrounded by a sidewalk interspersed with stars.

Finally, at the end of your days (if you still have the stamina), venture down to the Historic Seaport Harbor Walk where you can have drinks and dinner, gaze (wistfully) at the beautiful boats, people watch and then wander over to nearby Sunset Pier to watch the awesome sunsets that grace Key West’s skies on most evenings.

The style of Key West, both natural and man made, can’t be beat!

Check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe for more photos.

Mallory Square

El Meson de Pepe Restaurant

Sloppy Joe’s Bar

The Basilica of St. Mary Star of the Sea

  • https://stmarykeywest.com/
  • Address: 1010 Windsor Lane, Key West, Florida 33040
  • Hours: Monday-Friday, 0900-1500, Saturday, 0900-1400, Sunday, after all masses
  • Admission: free

St. Paul’s Episcopal Church

Philip L. Cosgrove House

Address: 323 Whitehead Street, Key West, Florida 33040

William Lowe Delaney/Theodore Holtsberg House

  • Address: 323 Whitehead Street, Key West FL 33040

Audubon House and Tropical Garden

  • http://audubonhouse.com
  • Address: 205 Whitehead Street, Key West, Florida 33040
  • Hours: 0930-1615, Monday -Sunday
  • Admission: free (not verified)

Alexander Cruz/Julia Gardner House

  • Address: 403 Eaton Street, Key West FL 33040

Martin Hellings House

  • Address: 319 Duval Street, Key West, Florida 33040

San Carlos Institute

Customs House and Museum

  • https://www.kwahs.org/museums/custom-house/visit
  • Address: 281 Front Street, Key West, Florida 33040
  • Hours: 1000-1600, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $16.00 ($14.40 online), Senior/Local/College ID/Retired Military, $12.00 ($10.30 online), Youth (ages 7-18), $8.00 ($6.30 online), Children (under 7), free, Military, free

Monroe County Courthouse

Southernmost House

U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Ingham Maritime Museum

  • https://www.uscgcingham.org/
  • Address: Truman Waterfront On The Western Edge of Key West Foot of Southard Street at new Park Seawall, Key West, FL 33040
  • Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 1000-1600
  • Admission: Adults (ages 13+), $10.00, Children (ages 7-12), $5.00, Children (under 6), free, Active Military, $5.00

Casa Antigua

Key West Theater

  • https://thekeywesttheater.com/
  • Address: 512 Eaton Street, Key West, Florida 33040
  • Hours: vary according to events scheduled
  • Admission: varies according to event

Tropic Cinema

Discovering Antigua

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

We headed to a new country on a whim.

We then headed to a town I knew nothing about.

The unknown was the best part.

We could hate it…or it could be one of our most memorable trips yet!

One of the best parts of travel is discovering new places and cultures.  I find it extremely exhilarating to explore a new city and find out what makes it tick! 

What was it about Antigua Guatemala that makes it worthy to have received the distinction of UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979?

Antigua Guatemala means “Old Guatemala” and was the third capital of Guatemala, after earthquakes and uprisings forced the movement of the first two.  Located in the central highlands of Guatemala, it is known for its beautifully preserved Spanish Baroque-influenced architecture and the large number of colonial churches ruined during previous years earthquakes. 

Laid out in a square pattern, with streets running from north to south and east to west, we found that La Antigua (as it is sometimes referred to) was quite easy to navigate.  As we set out onto the cobblestone streets, we passed many buildings that had been damaged during earthquakes. Rather than appearing as eyesores, however, these buildings, including the Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús among others, add character to the charming city,

The Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús is located next to the Spanish Embassy and was once a Jesuit monastery and college, established in 1626.  After the Jesuits were expelled in 1767, the great earthquake that hit six years later, left the unoccupied building in ruins.  Though we were unable to venture directly into the main part of the building, the Spanish government, which restored most of the complex, has turned it into a cultural center.  Outside, we were able to admire the extravagantly carved (yet mostly headless) statues that grace the facade of the main building, but inside the complex, we were able to enjoy serene courtyards and abundant pieces of artwork on display.

Continuing our journey, we came to the heart of the city, the Plaza Mayor.  This central plaza is a gathering spot for locals and visitors and is centered with a fountain.  There are large trees that offer shade during the hottest parts of the day and benches to rest and talk.  Due to the large number of visitors in town for the Holy Week’s festivities, there were many vendors attempting to peddle their wares and many locals in traditional dress. The perfect spot for people-watching!

Surrounding the square are a large number of restaurants, shops and banks, including the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, which incorporates the headquarters of the Guatemala Institute of Tourism, the Antigua Tourism Association, the National Police and the Sacatepquez Department government. 

Dominating the eastern side of the Plaza Mayor is the Antigua Guatemala Cathedral.  The original church, built in 1541, was damaged heavily by many earthquakes over the years.  The original church was demolished in 1669 and rebuilt and consecrated in 1680.  The largest in Central America at the time, it was filled with precious works of art and housed the remains of Conquistador Pedro de Alvarado and his wife, Beatriz de la Cueva.  In 1773, the catastrophic Santa Marta earthquake demolished much of the city and movement of the capital to (what is now known as) Guatemala City, was deemed necessary.  This earthquake also seriously damaged most of the cathedral.  Belonging to the parish of San Jose, the cathedral’s interior presently only occupies the entrance hall of the original edifice.  It is not as richly decorated as I would have imagined, but it was nice to see the stations of the cross and the other holy statues, especially those decked out for Semana Santa.

As we walked out of the back doors into a cemented courtyard, we admired the exterior architecture of not only the cathedral but the buildings surrounding the cathedral.  Noticing an entryway, we approached and found that we could investigate the ruins that remain from when the cathedral was demolished by the massive earthquake of 1773.  Paying our entry fee, we walked through the remains of this once grand cathedral, mostly open above so that we could glimpse the blue sky.  Though it takes a bit of imagination to envision how the cathedral once looked, it was exciting to walk through the structure, examining the ruined chapels and seeing the remains of the carved details atop the columns. 

Something we learned was that after the destruction of the church, it temporarily served as a cemetery.  Many tunnels have been discovered under the cathedral and we were also able to descend into the South Crypt.  A dark, damp place, there was not much to see, but you can imagine the many souls that have come to rest here. 

In the rear of the remains, we found a work area where many pieces are being restored or placed for safekeeping.  Despite the absence of many walls and a ceiling, this cathedral took my breath away for the purity that still remains.  Much like visiting the Acropolis in Athens or the Forum in Rome, the detritus of this ancient structure leave much to the imagination, yet take your breath away at the same time. 

After leaving the cathedral, we walked past the park once again, heading back to our hotel so that we could spend some time refreshing ourselves for much needed nourishment.

A couple of blocks from our hotel, on the corner of Alameda de Santa Lucia and 5a Calla Poniente, we peered through the gates at what we later learned was the Landivar Monument, dedicated to poet and local, Rafael Landivar.  Built in 1953, this monument, erected in a park-like setting, pays tribute to the beloved writer and Jesuit priest who lived from 1731 until 1793.  Though we walked by this peaceful place, every day, we never seemed to find the gates unlocked, though we were told that it would be open daily.  Content to spy on its tranquility through the iron bars, we decided to save this for a future visit. 

After a recommendation from our hotel for dinner, we headed back into the night seeking out the restaurant, La Fonda de la Calle Real, located near the Plaza Mayor. As we approached the park, we learned for the first time what the Santa Semana processions of this small city consisted of.

Hundreds of people lined the street of Poniente, which runs east to west, adjacent to the park. Processing down the street was a lighted, massive, religious, wooden shrine hoisted on the shoulders of a religious guild. Moving and swaying slowly to the melancholy music of the accompanying band, we watched in awe as the barge, complete with life-size effigies of the Virgin Mary and Jesus, passed a few feet from us. Many others marched with the procesiónes, dressed in robes and waving censers clouding the air with the smoke from burned incense.

As a Catholic, it was something to see…inspiring, touching and thrilling all at the same time!

Once the crowds dispersed, we finally headed to La Fonda unequivocally anticipating some delectable Guatemalan cuisine. Seated in a courtyard, open to the night sky, we started with guacamole and then both chose the traditional dish, Suban-iq, chicken, pork and beef slowly cooked in banana leaves, covered in a tomato, chilies and spices sauce. Accompanied by homemade tortillas (being made by a lady near the entryway), the food was delicious and just what we needed after our long day of travel and sightseeing.

Heading back to our hotel, stomachs filled, we eagerly readied ourselves for bed and within seconds, my mind reeling from all that we had experienced so far, I was asleep.

Not for long.

Shaken from my sleep, I sat up and realized that we had experienced our first earthquake! Though I was able to go back to sleep immediately, my son said that there were three or four aftershocks, making him a bit nervous, knowing that there were three nearby volcanoes.

What can I say? All in a days time, we had discovered so much! A new country, a new city, a new culture, new religious traditions, new foods and something entirely new (and a bit scary) to the both of us…an earthquake.

Yes, we were discovering Antigua…and this was only Day One!

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Antiguo Colegio de la Campana de Jesus

  • Address: H747XQ Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: 1000-1700
  • Admission: free

Plaza Mayor

  • Hours: 24 hours
  • Admission: free

Antigua Guatemala Cathedral

  • Address: 5a Calle Oriente 5, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0900-1700
  • Admission: Main church, free. Ruins, Q20 (about $3.00 US)

Landivar Monument

  • Address: Alameda de Santa Lucia, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
  • Hours: daily
  • Admission: free

La Fonda de la Calle Real

A Place To Pee

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

No doubt about it, women have more trouble finding restroom facilities than men.  And, when they do, they often find long lines.

Men, on the other hand, have it easy.  They can find a dark corner, a tree and on the streets of Amsterdam, public urinals.

One particular urinal in Amsterdam is the “go to” place.  A much esteemed latrine, it is located, on the canal, near the building that once housed the new wing of City Hall, thus earning it the name City Hall urinal.

It’s location, however, is not it’s redeeming factor.  The urinal (unbelievably) has earned National Monument status!

Built in 1926, the structure is quite unlike other urinals scattered throughout the city.  Most are plain, silver structures and others resemble large green garbage bins.  What sets this particular urinal apart is that its actually quite attractive, having been designed in accordance with principles drawn from Amsterdamse School of Architecture.

During the era of Amsterdamse School, architects in the Netherlands were experimenting with new forms and developing remarkable designs, which included red brick motifs and elegant, curved facades.  These architects were often involved with municipal projects, many commissioned by Amsterdam’s local government, producing avant-garde residential and public buildings.  Aside from the well known, Het Schip and the Olympic Stadium, the architects worked on civic and utilitarian amenities including bridges, postboxes and yes, public toilets.

Though a small example of the Amsterdamse School’s ideals, the City Hall Urinal captures its essence with its curved western wall and modern statue, fist raised in the air, created by Hildo Krop, one of Amsterdam’s most prominent sculptors. Definitely a must see for architecture aficionados!

So, if you are male and have frequented one or more of Amsterdam’s thousands of bars or cafe’s and find yourself in need of relief, head on over to the protected monument, City Hall Urinal, that is, if you can stand the ripe odor emanating from the building.

Women, sorry, you might have to find a McDonald’s!

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City Hall Urinal

  • Address:  195-197 Oudezijds Voorburgwal, Amsterdam, Netherlands.  Near the intersection of Damstraat and Oudezijds Voorburgwal on the eastern side of the Oudezijds Achterburgwal canal.
  • Admission:  free

Out Of This World

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Happy to be going to a different location this weekend, I sat in front of my computer and googled “Things to Do In Brussels”.  The usual stuff was displayed on my screen.

The Grand Place…no trip is complete without wandering around the main square and I knew at some point during this trip, I would probably end up there.

Day trips to Bruges…my god, how I wish I had the time!!!

Mannekin Pis…seriously…how many times can I watch him pee?

The Atomium…now, here is something I haven’t done.

Located in the northern part of the city between the royal estates of Laeken and Stuyvenbergh, the Atomium is a structure originally built for the Expo 58, the 1958 Brussels World’s Fair.  An unusual fabrication, it forms the shape of a unit cell of an iron crystal magnified 165 billion times!  Now a famous landmark and museum, it has become the most popular tourist attraction and the symbol of Europe’s capital city.

Though the trip to the northern part of the city is normally an uncomplicated one, we soon discovered that work was being done on the train lines.  After riding the metro back and forth between two stations and pairing up with three Swedish women, we all found that we had to exit that station and take a specially marked bus to the Atomium.

A short walk later, we found ourselves staring up at the amazing, shiny structure that appears to have been deposited by aliens!  Something truly out of this world!

Making our way to the base of the Atomium, we found our way to a long, snaking line in order to purchase tickets.  12 euros later, we again found ourselves in another line to enter to building, having to pass thru metal detectors and endure bag searches.

Finally…another line…but this time to make our way up to the permanent exhibition on the second floor.

The permanent exhibition details how the Atomium came to be, from the conception and designs of engineer André Waterkeyn and architects André and Jean Polak. Standing 335 feet tall, its nine, 60 foot diameter stainless steel clad connected spheres represent the faith one had in the power of science and nuclear power.  The 1958 World’s Fair was organized, at the time, to promote the world’s technological and scientific advances, to look to a better future and to encourage world peace.  There are many sketches and displays detailing the beginnings of this immense engineering project as well as many old pictures, some detailing the visits of the six million visitors to the fair, including the likes of celebrities such as Elizabeth Taylor.

Though some of the information was interesting, the area appeared to be straight out the 1950’s and cartoon, the Jetson’s…very much in need of an update!

From the Atomium map, it seemed that we should have been able to traverse the tubes to other exhibitions throughout the structure, however, we were sent back to the bottom floor after our tour of the permanent exhibition.  Corralled into another area, we found ourselves in line…once again…this time to take the elevator to the top, viewing level.

Finally, arriving at the top sphere, we were rewarded with 360 degree views of the surrounding area and the city of Brussels.  With bright, blue, sunny skies it was easy to see areas far away as well as the royal estates nearby and Mini-Europe almost directly beneath.

After making our way around the top of the Atomium, we ascended the stairs to the restaurant at the top of the orb, where we once again encountered our Swedish friends.  Though the restaurant Belgium Taste, has a full menu, having a drink to appreciate the beautiful views through the full-length windows appears to be the norm later in the afternoon.

Once again, standing in line for the elevator, we made our way to the base of the Atomium, through the gift shop and out of the building.  Heading down the avenue, we walked far enough to reach the roundabout where a vast amount of tulips were planted for some colorful pictures and then further down to a fountain, passing monuments and parks along the way.

Finding ourselves further from the bus drop off and remembering the disruption on the subway lines, we decided to make our way home via tram.  Taking a tram from Centenaire, we traveled to De Wand where we encountered amazing grafitti throughout the area.  Taking a few minutes, we snapped a few photos before our tram arrived.  Departing De Wand, we were able to travel all the way to the Bourse near the Grand Place.

See…I told you I would end up in the Grand Place at some point.

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The Atomium

  • Address:  Avenue de l’Atomium, 1020 Bruxelles, Belgium
  • Hours:  Daily, 1000-1800 (box office closes at 1730)
  • Admission:  Adults (18-59 years), €12, Children (under 6), coach drivers, people with disabilities, free, Children (6 – 11 yrs), €6, Teens (12 – 17 yrs), €8, Students (with student ID), €8, Senior citizens (aged 60 yo and above): €9
  • Combination tickets may be purchased with ADAM (Art and Design Museum) and the adjacent Mini Europe.
  • Getting There:  The Atomium is a 5 minute walk from the Heysel / Heizel metro station (line 6) and right opposite Mini-Europe.  You can also depart Bourse station near the Grand place and switch at De Wand station to Centenaire (Line 19 or 23) for a more colorful journey or in the event of subway disruption.

The Crown of Puerto Vallarta

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In many Mexican cities, you will find in the heart of that city…a square dominated by a church.

Puerto Vallarta is no different, though the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe sits on a smaller square, nestled away between many buildings.  Called “one of the most endearing” of the city’s landmarks, it’s wrought-iron crown can be spied almost anywhere throughout the city and one that I absolutely wanted to visit during my visit to this coastal Mexican city.

In 1903, there was a small chapel located in the current location, dedicated to the Virgin Guadalupe, however, foundations were beginning to be laid for the current church.  With the arrival of Father Francisco Ayala in 1915, it was suggested that the foundations be expanded for a larger temple than had been planned.

Walls and pillars were finished by 1917, however construction began in earnest in the early 1920’s.  Though construction was halted temporarily in 1926, due to the Cristero War, it was resumed in 1930 with the addition of the dome.  The entire building was completed in 1940 with the exception of the two towers.  The chancel and organ were installed in 1951 and the main tower, topped with the wrought-iron crown, finally in 1952.

Although it has been speculated that the crown was designed to resemble one worn by Empress Carlota of Mexico, this has been found to be untrue.  To “crown” the Parish, the current crown was placed on the main tower in 1965 and was designed by José Esteban Ramírez Guareño.

When walking through the city, you can see how beloved this landmark is as it is depicted in photos, shirts, logos and postcards.  Many congregate near and in front of the church and you can hear the church bells rung by the sextants 30 and 15 minutes prior to each service.  If you are lucky enough to be in Puerto Vallarta during Our Lady of Guadalupe Festival (Feast of Guadalupe, December 1 through December 12), you will notice that the bell ringing and and festivities reach a frenzied level.  Processions advance through the streets, including dancing warriors, banners, music, singing and colorful floats depicting scenes of the Virgin and Juan Diego, the Indian peasant that she appeared to in 1531.  Thousands of visitors descend upon the city and the streets are lined with vendors selling food, sweets, souvenirs, toys and more.

Take the time to admire the church from the square and other vantage points, however, be sure to take a moment to attend mass or just take a look around between services.  The architecture is a mix of various styles…neoclassical, renaissance, baroque.  The interior design is a tribute to the original Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City.  Particular attention should be paid the to the idolized image of Our Lady of Guadalupe and a 1945 oil replica by Guadalajaran artist Ignacio Ramirez.  Beautiful religious images are painted on wood throughout the structure, carved wooden confessionals stand proud and waiting and the elaborate marble altar are the main focus of the church.

There is much love and devotion in the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe.  When visiting Puerto Vallarta, be sure to make it a priority!

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Our Lady of Guadalupe

  • http://parroquiadeguadalupevallarta.com/
  • Address:  Calle Hidalgo 370, Centro, 48300 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico
  • Mass Schedule:  Monday-Friday, 0730, 1200, 1900.  Saturday, 0730, 1200, 1700, 1800, 1930, 2030.  Sunday, 0630, 0800, 1000, 1200, 1830, 1930, 2030