market – Snapping The Globe

Vibrant Verona

While visiting Venice is an amazing experience, after having been there many times, one gets the itch to see other cities in the region. Having already taken the train to Padua a few years prior, I was planning on seeing some other nearby cities. On this particular day, however, realizing that we had arrived a little earlier than normal, I decided to venture out a little further…to Verona.

Verona is one of the main tourist destinations in northern Italy, situated on the Adige River and known as the setting for two of William Shakespeare’s plays, Romeo and Juliet and The Two Gentlemen of Verona. Because of its artistic heritage and opera season staged in its Roman amphitheater, it attracts millions of visitors each year.

Ruled by the della Scala family during the 13th and 14th century, the city was extremely prosperous during their reign and this wealth can be spied throughout its boundaries today; in its monuments, walls and architecture and more. While I was aware that many tourists head straight to Juliet’s House and Museum, one of the most famous places in the city, I decided to do this as well, but also to see the other aspects that make this UNESCO World Heritage Site so special.

After the hour and ten minute train ride, I quickly ducked into a station shop to purchase a face mask for the return trip or for any other attraction which might require it. During my train ride, I had realized that KN95 face masks were still required on public transportation when conductors removed five British travelers at the stop prior to Verona’s Porta Nuova station. While I had a regular surgical mask, I realized that it was not enough and was thankful that I went unnoticed.

Thankful that crisis had been averted, I set out to walk to the city center, first stopping at the Porta Nuova (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=30718), the city’s old gate. Stopping for a few photos, I then continued on Corso Porta Nuova past Giardini Pradaval and its sculptures and statues, the Lapidary Museum Maffeiano and I Portoni della Bra the historic gate that once divided the city from the countryside and connects the Porta Nuova railway station to Piazza Bra. While I felt welcomed by the city gate Porta Nuova, it was when I walked through the arches of I Portoni della Bra that I felt as though I was truly entering the city and readied myself for the city’s beauty.

Having planned to see the amphitheater, I decided to take a detour and walk toward the river and the Castelvecchio Museum, since its opening hours were fewer. Making my way across its intimidating drawbridge into the courtyard, I then headed inside to make my way through its major Italian art collections distributed over twenty-nine rooms. Sculpture, paintings, ancient weapons, ceramics, goldsmiths, miniatures and ancient city bells were artfully displayed throughout the castle which dates back to the mid 1300s. While it was built as a residence for the della Scala family, it was mainly used for the military defense of the city and that is evident by its towering walls and battlements.

While I enjoyed my walk through the castle’s interior, what I really wanted to do was investigate the courtyards, the battlements and the clock tower. Climbing up the stairway, I made my way first to the rear of the castle and was rewarded with stunning views of the river and the Scaligero Bridge. It was a beautiful day and being out on the walls was the perfect place to be! Some of the passageways were a bit narrow but easy to navigate and to reach the seven towers. From the front of the castle, the views of the city, the large courtyard, the clock tower and the small courtyard beneath the tower were so stunning that I could have stayed up there all day. Finally, I passed through the adjacent walkway to the bridge and took a quick stroll across so that I could say “I did”.

If I was going to see everything, however, it was time to move on and I decided to continue my path along the Corso Cavour, which follows the river. A short stroll later, I passed the Arco dei Gavi, a massive, ancient white-marble arch which was was used as a gate in the walls during the Middle Ages. During the Napoleonic rule, French engineers demolished it and its ruins were moved to a square and then to the arena. In 1932, the arch was reconstructed, under Mussolini’s rule, in its current spot next to the Castelvecchio, very near its original location.

A little further down the road, I happened upon the Basilica di San Lorenzo. As I always make time for a church, I spent a few moments walking through this 12th structure. Built in the Romanesque style on the remains of a 5th or 6th century paleo-Christian building, using some of the original materials, it was interesting to see the two different types of building materials stemming from the different phases of construction…alternating brick and stone which gives the interior a striking pattern of strips in the columns and the walls and apse. Listening in to a tour guide’s spiel, I also learned that a unique feature is the presence of the women’s galleries, still intact and open onto three sides. Though my stop was a quick one, I was glad to see this beautiful church.

Near the Ponte della Vittoria, I decided to move into the city center as there was more to see in that domain. A few minutes later, I passed under the impressive Porta Borsari, the arched limestone gate, which dates back to the 1st century and served as the main entrance to the city.

There were many more churches, including the Church of St. Eufemia; some open, some closed for the afternoon, and as I spied many balconies, I thought of Juliet’s House, which I had planned to visit…whenever I got there! But of course, there was so much to see along the way!

Glancing at my watch, I decided to snatch a few moments at the Church of San Giovanni in Foro. A minor church, it was built on what was the main Roman road. Badly damaged by fire in 1172, while much of Verona was destroyed, its restoration in the early 1900s led to the discovery that Roman walls had been incorporated into the external walls of the church. It was small and dimly lit, but its beautiful mosaics, stone walls and ancient paintings made me glad that I had stumbled upon this gem.

Continuing on, I finally made my way to the beautiful Piazza delle Erbe, which was once the center of the city’s political and economic life. There were many market stalls hawking souvenirs and food, but there were lots of statues, fountains and other landmarks to see. More importantly, the square is surrounded by many buildings and monuments that have marked the history of Verona…City Hall, Lamberti Tower, the Houses of Mazzanti, Maffei Palace, the Gardello Tower and the Casa dei Mercanti (Merchant’s House). What I loved most, however, was the ancient fountain (circa 1368) with its roman statue, Madonna Verona, built by Bonino da Campione, which stands proudly in the center of the square and welcomes visitors to investigate its history.

My goodness…what wasn’t there to see? I love everything about Rome and its “in your face architecture”, but the simplicity of Verona with the minor details that begged you to slow down and savor it was unlike anything I had ever experienced in Italy. Everywhere I laid my eyes, there was stunning construction, architectural details on every building, including balconies upon which other Italian ladies, like the fictional Juliet, may have stood, conversing down to their young paramours.

Finding my way to the Scaliger Tombs, I decided that I needed to enter the premises so that I could see these stunning tombs at close range. After paying my entrance fee, I was given a handout to guide me through the small courtyard. Each of the elaborate tombs were unique and some just outright ostentatious. While passerby could get a glimpse through the iron bars of all of the tombs, I thought it much better to see their beauty unobstructed.

These five funerary monuments celebrate the Scaliger family who ruled in Verona from the 13th to the late 14th century. Located in a wrought-iron fenced enclosure of the church of Santa Maria Antica, these Gothic tombs were constructed for the wealthy members of the noble Scaliger dynasty who ruled as the Lords of Verona; Cangrande I, Mastino II, Cansignorio, Alberto II and Giovanni.

The church was open and I was given a covering for my shoulders as I entered. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before leaving.

Finally, next on the list was the famed Juliet’s House, a short walk away. As expected, after walking through the short corridor to the courtyard, I found it extremely crowded with other visitors. Everyone was jockeying for position and waiting for their chance to pose with the bronze statue of Juliet. Noting the balcony above, and those also posing there for photographs, I figured out which door to enter to pay my admission.

Inside, there were statues paying homage to Shakespeare, another bronze statue of Juliet, period furniture and the bed and Renaissance costumes from Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film version of Romeo and Juliet. The wooden floors and artfully decorated ceilings were extremely cozy, although very roomy, depicting the wealth of the Capello family (from which the name Capulet was derived). Eventually, I was able to step out onto the balcony and also pose for a photo, but I was interested to find that even though the house dates back to 13th century, the balcony was only added during the 20th century.

On my way out, I noticed the red mailbox, which collects the letters “to Juliet” from visitors. Remembering the 2010 movie Letters to Juliet, I smiled at the messages visible in the small window in the center, glancing around, wondering where the women who volunteer to answer them were.

Just up the road, I happened upon Porta Leoni, the ancient gate that was built during the Roman Republic and features a double façade and two towers. Adjacent, below the street level are amazing Roman excavations.

The afternoon was dwindling away and although I had seen so much during my afternoon visit to Verona, I still wanted to see the amphitheater. Deciding to walk along the river in order to make navigation back to Corso Porta Nuova a little easier, I was stopped in my tracks by an imposing church on the corner.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore.

Oh, I was here and I couldn’t resist, so I went in, hoping I had enough time for everything else on my list…namely the amphitheater. The church was still open and I paid my admission, following the handout offered to me, which guided me to both the Upper and Lower churches.

Starting with the Lower church, I traversed the ancient staircase to reach the first and oldest cloister of the complex. Here, I marveled at the decorated ribbed vaults and frescoed columns which divided the space. Of particular note was the early 14th century fresco depicting the Virgin seated on a throne with baby Jesus and a 12th century fresco of the Baptism of Jesus. There is a tombstone of jurist Antonio Pelacani, who died in 1327, showing him teaching his students and another of scholar Master Omobono, built in 1330. In the presbytery, there is a wooden crucifix from the 14th century and in the right transept, the stone upon which saints Fermo and Rustico were beheaded.

Back upstairs in the Upper church, I found it to be a massive and towering space. Again, crumbling frescoes decorated the walls and a large wooden door was topped with a fresco of the Crucifixion of Christ. The single nave church contained five apses and of particular interest was the Della Torre altar, from the 18th century, Our Lady’s Chapel (1613), which contains a some significant paintings and the presbytery with its marble altar, created by Schiavi, on which the relics of Saints Fermo and Rustico are kept.

There were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel. Upper ChurchThere were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel.

Sadly, I had saved the amphitheater for last and it was not meant to be.

This time…

With so much to see in Verona, I was impressed with what I had undertaken and experience in a single afternoon. As there is much more enjoy in Verona, I realized that I would definitely return in the near future.

Pulling my KN95 mask from my bag…it was time to make that train.

.For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castelvecchio Museum

https://museodicastelvecchio.comune.verona.it/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=42545
Address: Corso Castelvecchio, 2, Verona, Italy
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000 to1800. Last entrance at 1715. Closed Mondays, December 24, January 1.
Admission: Adults, €6.00 (+ €.60 online presale), Children (ages 8-14 years), €1.00 (+€.10 online presale). Free admission for residents of 65 years in the Municipality of Verona, persons with disabilities and their companion, children up to 7 years, holders of the VeronaCard.

Arco dei Gavi

https://www.verona.in/verona/what-to-see/details/arco-dei-gavi
Address: Corso Cavour, 2, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Basilica di San Lorenzo

https://verona.com/it/verona/chiesa-di-san-lorenzo/
- Address: Corso Cavour, 28, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: 0900-1200 and 1500-1700
  - Admission: free

Porta Borsari

Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 57A, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Chiesa di San Giovanni in Foro

Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 20, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: hours unknown
Admission: free

Piazza delle Erbe

https://verona.com/en/verona/piazza-delle-erbe/
Address: Piazza delle Erbe, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 0730-2030, daily
Admission: free

Scaliger Tombs

Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: unknown
Admission: €3 (unverified)

Juliet’s House

https://verona.com/en/verona/casa-di-giulietta/
Address: Via Cappello, 23, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 0900-1900, daily
Admission: Adults, €6

Porta Leoni

Address: Via Leoni, 37100 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours daily
Admission: free

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

https://www.chieseverona.it/it/le-chiese/la-chiesa-di-san-fermo
Address: Corte S. Elena, Piazza Duomo 35, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: Monday to Friday, 1100-1800, Saturday, 0930-1800, Sunday, 1300-1800
Admission: Single entry €4. Entry to four churches, San Fermo, San Zeno, Cathedral Complex and Santa Anastasia, Basilica of San Zeno, the Cathedral Complex, the Basilica of Santa Anastasia, €8

Markets and Ancient Ports

For many years, it seemed like I visited Tel Aviv almost every month. Over time, however, I have decided to work shorter flights which suit my schedule a little bit better by not having the two night flights that Tel Aviv has.

When someone reached out to me in April, however, and wanted to swap two of my Rome trips for her Tel Aviv, it benefited me to take the swap and have the weekend that I was supposed to work off. Sounded like a good idea…and it was! I was excited to revisit the Mediterranean city to see some favorites and discover some new things!

Despite it being a holiday when we arrived, and finding everything closed, the next day was business as usual. After grabbing some falafel at my favorite place, I decided that I was going to get a lot of steps in, first heading to the Carmel Market.

The largest market in Tel Aviv was first opened in 1920, approximately eleven years after the establishment of the city. Located on one street which runs south from the junction of King George Street, Allenby and Sheinkin Street to the Carmelit Bus depot, it always hosts a bustling crowd, especially on Thursdays and Fridays, when locals are making their purchases for their family meals. Visitors should not be intimidated by the locals going about their business as the market also attracts tourists wishing to experience the sights, sounds and of course smells of the freshest fruit and vegetables, spices and other delectables in addition to those hoping to find unique souvenirs and clothing. I have always loved coming here, usually to purchase my olive oil but just for the overall experience!

On this day, however, I realized my mistake. Wanting to take a walk to the Old City of Jaffa, I could not purchase my olive oil as I would have to backtrack to my hotel to drop it off or carry the heavy purchase on this journey. Assuming I would have time later to return, I proceeded on to the second leg of my adventure.

To get to the Old City of Jaffa, it is about a thirty-seven minute walk and I decided that I would do it along the waterfront to enjoy the sights and smells of the sea. It was a beautiful April day and I was so thankful to be able to have the time to enjoy the lovely sunshine. It wasn’t long before I passed Charles Clore Park and the Haetzel Betashach Museum which focuses on the history of Etzel, the Hebrew acronym for the National Military Organization (one of the military groups who led the struggle for Israel’s independence). Only pausing to take a few photos of the outside of the museum, I continued on my way quickly arriving at landmark which marks the entrance to the ancient port city.

The Jaffa Clocktower.

Standing in the middle of the north end of Yefet Street, the limestone tower incorporates two clocks and a plaque commemorating the Israelis killed in the battle for the town in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War. It is one of seven clock towers built in Ottoman Palestine…only one of six that remain.

There was plenty of unique art and architecture to see along the way, but I was determined to make my way through the HaMuze’on Garden, past the Jaffa Theatre and to the Kdumim Visitor Center Square. St. Peter’s Church was on my list, however, I arrived to realize that I was between opening hours. Since it would require waiting for its reopening in a couple of hours, I decided to spend my time re-exploring the old port and seeking out some things in the nearby area.

Walking through the square, I made my way to the stairs leading through the garden and to the Wishing Bridge. I remember seeing this bridge a long time ago, but I had forgotten its meaning. I read the sign, “An ancient legend holds that anyone boarding the bridge holds the zodiac sign and looks at the sea – their wish will come true.” Naturally, I had lots of wishes, so I walked along the wooden walkway, studying each of the aged bronze zodiac signs that wrapped around its rails. Placing my hand on the Lion, Leo, I looked out to the sea and made my wish…wishes…hopefully it counted for more than one!

*The Wishing Brid*ge (as viewed from below)

Walking through the gardens, I appreciated the lush greenery, beautiful flora and sculptural works that filled the landscape. Eventually, I found the other notable item that I had come to see. The replica of ancient Egyptian Ramesses II gate. Without knowing the background, it seems rather unremarkable (and too new), but as I stood there taking photos, a gentleman asked me me what I knew of it. Such began a conversation with a local tour guide Haim Tamari. Mr. Tamari informed me that this replica supplants the original 13th century gate that was discovered in this spot and dates from the period of the rule of Ramesses II. The inscription on one of the gates includes on of the many honorific titles of Ramesses II. Work had recently been completed on the paved and hardscaped area around the gate.

Mr. Tamari and I walked together back to the square as the hour was approaching of the opening of the church. We talked of the history of the area and of my past visits to many parts of the country. Realizing that I was expecting a visit to St. Peter’s he continued on with his dialogue, expanding to the history of the church. He explained that this church was completed in 1894 but was preceded by another from the 16th century which was constructed as a church and inn for pilgrims on the ruins of an earlier temple. It was constructed here because it was in Jaffa that St. Peter raised Tabitha (one of Jesus’ disciples) from the dead (Acts of the Apostles, Acts 9:36-43, Acts 10:1-4) and it is dedicated to him. The church, facing west toward the sea, instead of east (like most churches) was situated on a hill serving as a beacon to pilgrims, signaling that the Holy Land was near.

Thankful that I now had a knowledgeable contact for future tours, I thanked him for sharing his company, conviviality and knowledge. He continued on to an appointment, bidding me a farewell and I took a seat outside the church’s iron gates, tall, brick façade and towering bell tower.

At three o’clock, the doors were opened and I and others who had also congregated at its opening, were ushered inside. As I made my way past each of the side altars, I took in the overall appearance of the church, with its dominant pastel-colored vaulted ceiling, stained glass and ochre marble walls. Taking a seat in one of the pews, I bent my head in prayer only to be distracted and then mesmerized by the pulpit, carved in the shape of a tree. As a tour group made their way inside, I listened as their leader spoke of its history, including an interesting tidbit about Napoleon, who was said to have lived in one of rooms of St. Louis’ citadel just outside and to the right of the sacristy while he was at St. Peter’s in 1799 during the French campaign in Egypt and Syria.

Finally, my visit to St. Peter’s complete, I exited and made my way through the stairways, alleyways and tunnels of Jaffa toward its port. Walking along the water’s edge, I passed cafes, studios, restaurants and mosques, reminding me that this was a city of more than one faith.

*The Sea Mosque (where the city’s Muslim sailors and fisherman prayed before going to sea)*

After such a long day, it was time to start the long walk back to my hotel. Arriving almost an hour later, with aching feet, I realized that it was time to grab that nap for the dreaded overnight flight home. Reflecting on my cultural and historically filled day, I realized that I had been missing out on the amazing opportunities that Tel Aviv affords for the lack of sleep. Yes, despite the nap I was getting ready to take, it was going to be a long night home…but definitely worth it.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Carmel Market

https://www.touristisrael.com › carmel-market-tel-aviv › 4433
Address: HaCarmel Street 48, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
Hours: Summer, Sunday-Thursday, 0700-evening (closing begins around 1800), Friday, 0700-afternoon (closing begins two hours before Shabbat comes in). Winter, Sunday-Thursday, 0700-evening (closing begins around 1600), Friday, 0700-afternoon (two hours before Shabbat comes in).
Admission: free

Jaffa Clocktower

https://www.jaffaclocktower.com/
Address: Yefet Street 14, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

St. Peter’s Church

https://stpetersjaffa.com/
Address: Tel-Aviv-Yafo, Israel, 1
Hours: Daily, 0900-1145 and 1500-1700
Admission: free

Rediscovering Accra

There is nowhere like Africa.

The smells, the sights, the people!

I had missed being in Accra and was excited to show my friend around on her first sojourn. Once we had visited Black Star Square, a new locale for me, it was time to reacquaint with some “oldies but goodies” and see what else we might discover in the process.

When you walk around the city, you never know what you might encounter…fighting cows, someone’s laundry on a city bench or wall, someone sleeping under a tree, countless vendors hawking their goods. It is always a surprise and usually quite entertaining.

Dodging the hazards of the crumbling sidewalk, we ventured back along 28 September Road towards the Accra Arts Market. Speaking of not knowing what you might find or walk away with, this is the place. I was in search of face masks made of kente cloth and I knew exactly where to look, however, it is quite difficult engaging with the locals who invite you into their booths and remind you that it’s always “free to look”. Although I have countless masks and other oddities from my previous visits, I steeled myself to say no, however, my friend, on her first visit, couldn’t and walked away with a small table!

Purchases aside, we were able to reconnect with my old friend David, a drum maker who works in the market, share a soda and some great gossip!

Since the Kwame Nkrumah monument was a short distance away, I decided that we should stop in for a visit. Although I had been there before, it was nice to see it once again, even if the fountains were all drained and the property a bit unkempt. One of the most interesting things I discovered was in the museum at the back of the property. I had just finished watching the Netflix series, “The Crown” and remembered the episode when Queen Elizabeth danced with President Nkrumah at a ball in Accra in 1961. Right there on the wall was a photo depicting that particular event!

Leaving the property, I suddenly realized a major mistake we made upon our arrival. I really am out of practice… Never tell some of the locals your name unless you want a personalized ornament, shell, bracelet…the possibilities are endless. I understand that they are desperately trying to make a living, but once they had our name (in our case) they made bracelets for each of us with our monikers woven into it and wanted to sell it to us. Sadly, I didn’t have enough money for their asking price (which was quite high) and I felt bad for the amount of time spent making it, so…we came to an agreement of a purchase with a discount.

Continuing on, our next stop was the Holy Trinity Cathedral. This beautiful, stone church was completed in 1894 and was funded by the colonial British government. Fifteen years after its completion, it was deemed a cathedral by the Diocese of Accra.

Having lain my eyes upon many a cathedral in the world, I would say that this one was in no way equal, however, mass was just finishing and the priest warmly welcomed us inside and told us to make ourselves at home. The design was quite interesting with a dark, barrel-vaulted ceiling, a stone-walled interior and red velvet-covered pews, but it was stark in contrast to some of the Italian, Central and South American gilded temples I have set foot in. Nonetheless, it was nice to see the interior and even speak with some of the parishioners who were still gathered outside.

Heading into the Jamestown area, I was hoping that we could tour the Ussher Fort, one of the three forts that Europeans built in the region during the middle of the 17th century. This fort was built by the Dutch and was completed in 1649 and I suspected that we would be able to get some interesting photos in the bright, sunny day. Blaming incorrect internet information, we found the place to be closed, but were still able to sneak a peek at the interior through the barred doorways. Definitely another place for one of my future trips.

After stopping for a cold drink at the colorful Jamestown Cafe, we cut through the area that houses the Makola market. Having seen the market in operation during its peak operations during the week, we found the streets to be relatively deserted…Sundays are really a day of rest for many Ghanaians. A little further, after passing the monument to King Tackie Tawiah, (king of Accra from 1862-1902), we ended up on Independence Avenue with its countless vendors and local market. While Makola was quiet, we found a flurry of activity while hastening our own travels back to our hotel.

Hobbling back to my room, I suddenly realized how much ground we had covered that day. My friend was thrilled to have seen so many interesting sights and met so many interesting people. Me? I was just happy to rediscover one of my favorite African cities!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Accra Arts Centre

Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: free

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and Museum

Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: 5 cedi (about .83 US)

Holy Trinity Cathedral

Address: High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: Unknown
Mass Schedule: Unknown
Admission: free

Ussher Fort

https://www.ghanamuseums.org/ussher-fort-museum.php
Address: 33 Prof. Atta Mills High St, Accra, Ghana
Hours: Unknown
Admission: Pupils from Primary to JHS 3, GH¢ 0.20 (about .04 US), SHS Students, GH¢ 0.50 (about .08 US), Tertiary Students with ID, GH¢ 1.00 (about .16 US), Ghanaian Adults, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Children, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Students with ID, GH¢ 5.00 (about .83 US), Adult Foreigners, GH¢ 10.00 (about $1.66 US)

Makola Market

Address: Kojo Thompson Rd, Accra, GH
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: free

El Diario de Guatemala NUEVE

DIA NUEVE

I blew a fuse today.

Not a personal one.

One in my apartment. I guess plugging in your hairdryer and your curling iron into the same set of plugs is a “no go” here.

I was already running late, and this happened. My hair was still wet, so I grabbed my hat and headed downstairs where I discovered, as I looked to see what time it was, that the microwave still had power, as did the refrigerator. I plugged in my little fan and discovered there was power in the downstairs outlets so I ran and grabbed my hairdryer and dried my hair in the kitchen (in the dark), looking at my reflection in the microwave, all the while thinking that I couldn’t cook my eggs.

Exactly…I wasn’t thinking. It wasn’t until I got to the bakery around the corner to get croissants that I realized that I could’ve cooked my microwave eggs! Maybe it was my subconscious wanting me to get croissants this morning!

I felt more confident in my class today and I got glowing reviews for my knowledge of the uses of “Hay” and “Hay que”…thanks to Fannie’s help! Class passed fairly quickly, and I was soon back in my apartment having a quick bite to eat and chatting with my mom on Facetime.

My middle son had an expressed an interest in me purchasing more soccer jerseys for him from the local market, so I decided that in addition to doing my homework early today (with no assistance), I would run over to look for something that he would like. I quickly found the place where he and I had bought some when we were here a couple of years ago. After a little haggling, I got the shirts I wanted for the price I wanted. It really is helpful when you know more of the language!

As I walked along the streets, I realized how comfortable I was and how much more I knew about the city than from my previous visit. As anxious as I to get home, I was also very sad to think of leaving the following week. If I had to pick another city to live in, this would be the one. So, if my husband ever divorces me, you guys will know where to find me!!!

Tonight, I decided that I was going to dress up a little and try the much-recommended crepe restaurant, Luna de Miel. Just around the corner from my apartment, it was a short walk, and I was ushered upstairs to the rooftop terrace. I had discussed this restaurant with my teacher earlier today and she was a little afraid that I might be disappointed, being that I have eaten crepes in Paris often. Every table was full and the ambience was perfect. Not quite sure what to choose, I asked the waiter for his preference. He suggested Luna Parisina,
which was filled with chicken, caramelized onions, mushrooms and cream. Was it as good as anything I’ve ever had in Paris? Dare I even say better? It was so delicious and I was quite full, but I decided that I simply had to have dessert. Taking a cue from my Parisian favorites, I ordered a sweet crepe with butter, cinnamon and sugar. Muy delicioso! The overall experience was one of the best I’ve had in Antigua and I think I waddled home…just a tiny bit!

What I learned today: Two things. You probably guessed it…don’t plug my hairdryer into the bathroom outlet anymore and the microwave makes a pretty decent mirror in a pinch!

Photo of the day: Chinchines at the market

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Luna de Miel

https://www.lunademielantigua.com/wp_ldma/
Address: 6ta Avenida Norte # 40, Antigua, GT 03001
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 1200-2000, Sunday, 1100-2000

El Diario de Guatemala OCHO

DIA OCHO

My second day at school was going to be the deciding factor of whether or not I was going to make it in the Spanish language educational system of Antigua!
Day two at my other school was when the frustration began to set in, so I was nervous for my class.

Although we began going over some of the irregular verbs, I felt like Patricia never got frustrated with my lack of understanding. It didn’t help that while we were going over my lessons that I received a text from my tour company informing me that my flights for my tour to Tikal could not be booked for Saturday. I was so distracted, trying to think of how to fix this problem, that I wasn’t really paying attention to my Spanish lesson and I think my teacher could see this. It was with great relief when class was finished. But don’t think this got me off the hook…Patricia gave me a great deal of homework!

After class, I ran over to the tour agency to speak with Claudia about the alternatives for my Tikal trip. I had already extended my stay at my Airbnb to accommodate this trip so there wasn’t an option to just not go. In the end, we settled on my tour to Tikal for Sunday. It is going to be a very long day with pick up around 3 AM and return to Antigua around 9 PM. Since I am leaving the next morning to go back to Guatemala City to catch my flight to the United States, I am sure that I’m going to be extremely exhausted, however, I feel as though I must absolutely visit this Mayan wonder!

That taken care of, I made note of the good weather and decided to finally go to my favorite ruins, Convento Santa Clara. I truly think this is one of the most beautiful in the city! Since it was a weekday, I found the place to be mostly empty and the best part was that there were no young lovers hiding in dark corners!

After my visit to the convent, I decided to go to the Artisans market. It was a bit tough finding what I really wanted and negotiating in Spanish, but I found a few gifts that worked. Once done, I was making my way back to my apartment, passing under Santa Catalina Arch, when I noticed a store on my right just past one of my favorite restaurants, Frida’s. This store, Nim Po’t, was like the Artisan’s Superstore. Almost everything that I had just seen at the Artisan’s Market was in this store…plus some! (And they take credit cards!). I made mental notes on everything I wanted to purchase and when I arrived at my apartment, I wrote out my shopping list so that when I returned, I wouldn’t forget anything.

So, as I was making this shopping list, I was realizing that I was doing everything possible, to avoid my homework…thinking about going to eat out…thinking about editing pictures…thinking about calling home…you name it…I thought about doing it. Finally, I pulled out my work and took a look. It was much tougher than I thought. So, what does one do when you don’t understand your Spanish homework? You send a copy of it to your Spanish-speaking friends and have them do it for you! Well not really do it for you…but tell you some of the answers so you could see if you got them correct.

You know, everyone needs a helping hand or two every now and then!

What I learned today: the Spanish verb, “mandar”, which means to send and “a tiempo” which means on time. Next time I send my passport information to the tour agency in a timelier manner.

Photo of the day: Convento Santa Clara

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Convento Santa Clara

Address: Sur at 6 Calle Oriente 2, Antigua, GT 03001
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Q40

Nim Po’t

https://www.nimpotexport.com/
Address: 5ta. Avenida Norte 29, Antigua Guatemala
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 1000-1900, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-2000.

Sanctuaries and Souvenirs

The early bird gets the worm…or a great breakfast!

Although I had checked many things off of my list of things to do in Havana, there was still a great deal more to see! As I sat in the dining room, enjoying my eggs, fruit and toast, I checked my map and thought more about the some of the things that were suggested by my seatmate on the flight to Havana.

Deciding to start at the Basilica and Convent of San Francis of Assisi, I thought that I would finally see more of the religious institutions that dot the predominately Catholic country.

Getting anywhere was slow going as I was continually distracted by the unique architecture that existed on each block. Passing the Museo Casa de Mexico Benito Juarez, I made a note to return later if there was time and then made a quick stop to admire the statue of Simon Bolivar, the Venezuelan military and political leader who led Venezuela, Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Panama to independence from the Spanish Empire.

*Casa de Benito Juarez* *and Simon Bolivar Statue*

Finally arriving in the Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, I first sought out two significant statues. The monument to the Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, sits on a bench, beckoning visitors to take a seat next to him and El Caballero, the bronze likeness of José María López Lledín, a man which much speculation once surrounded. An interesting story surrounds the latter. Originally from Spain, he was was said to have lost his family, arrested for a crime he did not commit and wandered the streets of Havana during the 1950s. He always carried a portfolio with his treasured pens, gifts and colored pieces of cards, which he bestowed on passersby. Over time, he became well known throughout the city and would often entertain with poetry recitals and storytelling. He died in 1985 and was buried in the Cemetery of Santiago de las Vegas. After the restoration of the plaza in the late 1990s, his remains were exhumed and placed in the Basilica Menor de San Francisco de Asis. His statue was erected in 2001 and was designed by sculptor José Villa Soberón, who also sculpted the John Lennon sculpture which can be found in the Parque Lennon in Vedado. His beard has been rubbed shiny and it is said that doing so gives good luck!

After a beard rubbing, I admired the lovely, wide open plaza and the beautiful buildings surrounding it, as well as the statue of Fray Junípero Serro with a Juaneño Indian boy, before entering the Basilica.

The original church that stood on this site was built by the Franciscans in 1591 but was damaged by severe storms in 1680 and 1692. A hurricane toppled its tower in 1694. Eventually, construction resulted in the church’s present Baroque stature in 1739, was named a basilica by the Pope and became the city’s premier house of worship. It eventually adjoined the adjacent Franciscan convent.

As I ventured inside, again I was a bit underwhelmed, as I had been with the Havana Cathedral. Its interior is in the shape of a Latin cross with domed ceilings, however, it lacked the grandeur that I thought would exist here. As I later learned, however, from 1762, the church no longer served the Catholic religion. From this time, the British had control over Havana and commandeered the basilica for Anglican services. Considered desecrated by the Protestants, Catholicism never existed within its walls again. Although the monks continued to occupy the convent, Queen Maria Cristina of Spain closed the building and transferred the members of the religious order. In 1907, the property was purchased by the government and sadly, became a warehouse.

Today, the church acts as one of Havana’s most outstanding concert halls and is home to the acclaimed all-female chamber orchestra, Camerata Romeu. As I wandered through the church, I was privy to some of the members performing during a rehearsal session.

Inside the crypt, the remains of many 17th and 18th century aristocrats can be found. The nave and the attached cloister also houses the Museum of Sacred Art which exhibits paintings by José Nicolás de la Escalera and Vicente Escobar, wooden images, early marriage registries and the armchairs and lectern used by Fidel Castro and Pope John Paul II during his 1998 visit. Though I enjoyed wandering through the church’s interior, it was the cloister with its fern-filled courtyards and countless rooms filled with religious artifacts that was most captivating.

The former church’s one hundred and thirty-seven foot tower, once the tallest in Havana (second tallest in Cuba), was previously crowned by a statue of St. Francis of Assisi, whose head was severed during a hurricane in 1846. Though the tower can be accessed by a somewhat rickety staircase (which I had planned to tackle for the beautiful views of the city), it was sadly not meant to be…the spire was closed due to maintenance.

Making my departure, I headed south on Oficios and immediately found myself staring at a train’s coach car, El Coche Mambi. Entering the car, I was greeted by an elderly woman, who explained (in Spanish) that visiting was by tour only. After paying her, she then led me through the car which was used by the Presidents on their tours of the country. Last used by Fidel Castro Ruz, the coach has been converted into a museum and preserved the same as when it was in use. Though my Spanish is basic, I mostly understood the history and what I was seeing as she led me through the coach and explained its contents. The president’s bedroom, the president’s wife’s bedroom, the kitchen, dining room and the president’s desk were quite interesting and beautifully displayed.

As I thanked the gracious senora for the short, yet insightful stopover, I ventured out, making my way to the waterside.

Headed toward the ferry terminal, I first encountered Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral. Since I had deemed the day, “a church day”, I decided that my ferry to Regla could wait while I find if it was possible to see the church’s interior. Discovering unlocked doors, I peered inside, spying a woman performing some tasks. She did not seem disturbed by my presence, so I quietly entered and moved throughout the space, discovering each of the elements that make an orthodox church unique.

The church’s construction dates back to 2004 when Cuban leader Fidel Castro offered to build the cathedral as a monument to Russian and Cuban good-will. The cathedral was built in the Byzantine style with a central golden cupola surrounded by four smaller copper-colored ones. The pieces of the cupolas, as well as elements of decoration, including the floor covering and the church plate, were brought from Moscow and the interior has space for 500 congregants.

After my walk-thru was complete, I ventured back out into the sunshine, finally heading to the ferry terminal. My destination was the small town across the bay where the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla is located. Though I probably would have not done this without some coaxing, it was highly recommended by the tour guide that I sat beside on the airplane. After hearing how much I love visiting churches, he insisted that I take the ferry to see this church, which houses the black Madonna, a highly venerated statue of the Virgin Mary.

I was a bit nervous as I entered the ferry terminal. After having my bag searched, I unsuccessfully searched for a ticket counter. There were many people waiting and as a boat approached from the south, I assumed that this was the correct vessel. Lining up with both locals and tourists, I asked a gentleman if this was the boat to Regla and was told yes, only to glance up and discover that another boat had pulled up to the dock. Hmmm. I decided that I would go with my gut!

As I approached the lanchita on the right, I saw people paying the crew as they boarded. Thankfully, I had smaller change, even though I overpaid a bit…ticket price was only 10 centavos! Making my way across the boat to the open doorways, so that I could get some air while fighting for space among the masses, I again asked someone (who appeared to be a local) if I was on the boat to Regla. “Si Señora”, he replied and I breathed a sigh of relief.

As we pulled away from the dock, I realized that if I indeed was on the wrong boat, the other ferry crossed the bay to the Christ statue and that wouldn’t be such a bad thing. Our ferry motored off, getting further from the city and I spied the golden cupola of Our Lady of Kazan in the distance, reflecting the brilliant glow of the day. And…it looked like we were headed in the right direction!

Seven minutes later, we were pulling up to the dock in Regla and I decided to follow those who appeared to be tourists. From the looks of the area, it seemed like the church was the tourist destination of choice…maybe the only choice.

Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla was a short walk and I was met by many vendors sitting on the stone gates which surrounded the church, hoping to sell me a candle or an offering to the Virgin. The church, with its long colorful history, is extremely important to the believers of the Virgin. The statue, which was believed to have been carved by St. Augustine “the African” in the 5th century, was brought from Spain in 453. After surviving a storm in the Strait of Gibraltar, it became known as the patron of sailors.

A small hut was built on the site, to house a copy of the image in 1687 by a pilgrim named Manuel Antonio, but was destroyed by a hurricane only five years later. A more durable chapel was built a few years later and in 1714, Nuestra Señora de Regla was proclaimed patron of the Bahía de la Habana. In 1957, the image was crowned by the Cuban Cardinal in the Havana Cathedral. On September 7, the saint is celebrated when thousands of pilgrims descend on Regla and the image is paraded through the streets.

The church’s vaulted ceiling makes a grand statement above the lightness of the church’s color scheme which is trimmed in blue, a salute to its association with the sea. There are beautiful paintings which depict life on the ocean, carved stations of the cross, saint’s statues and a golden side altar. As you enter the church, however, it is the altar, directly in your line of vision, that houses La Santísima Virgen de Regla. Though I had to wait a short time, I was finally able to approach the altar and take pictures of the Black Madonna…truly awe inspiring.

The ferry ride back to Old Havana was a quick affair and I toyed with the idea of immediately jumping on the other ferry. I wanted to revisit the Christ Statue and Castillo Des Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and I also wanted to tour La Cabana. There were other things in Old Havana that I wanted to discover first, however, so off I went by land, towards the Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market.

Since I had done a bit of browsing on Obispo street, but not yet made any significant purchases, I was eager to see what I might find in this highly recommended establishment. Built in 1885, the Havana’s oldest depository is the home to the largest artisan’s market in the city. A short walk from the harbor, it is easily accessible to cruise ship arrivals and offers everything from clothes to paintings to toys and tobacco accessories. The sheer size of it was quite overwhelming and I was not sure where to turn. As everyone tried to garner my attention, I decided that I would try to find shirts for my sons and a nativity set for my collection. In a predominately Catholic country, it would seem that finding a nativity set would be an easy feat, however, it took at least a half an hour of talking to people, who then went to talk to people, in order to find one! And since I was pretty particular about the type of t-shirts that I was searching for, it was a similar procedure. It was quite exhausting, but I met some interesting people, learned some interesting local news and walked away with the purchases I had planned and then a couple of unplanned ones too!

With my heavy package, I decided that I would begin heading back to my Airbnb to drop them and have a quick bite to eat. Crossing the street, however, I spotted the Church of St. Francisco of Paula. What caught my attention was the tall trio of stained glass windows on the rear of the church. I decided that I should take a quick look from the inside to see their sunlit beauty.

What originally served as an important hospital for women and children during the end of the 17th century, was built with an adjoining church devoted to St. Francis of Paola, one of the founders of the Roman Catholic Order of the Minims. The buildings were destroyed by a hurricane in 1730, but rebuilt in the Baroque style that is seen today. When the Havana Central Railroad attempts to demolish the church was met by opposition, work was completed to have it listed as a National Monument in 1944. Sadly, however, the railroad was able to destroy the hospital.

The church that can be visited today is similar in style to other Havana churches, those of Santo Domingo, Guanabacoa and San Francisco de Asis and has been extensively restored. The stained glass windows, that lured me inside, act as the altarpiece and this church has the only organ that has been preserved in Cuba with its original pipes and machinery. The ashes of the great Cuban violinist Claudio José Brindis de Salas (1852-1911), considered one of the best violinists of his time, are preserved in the church and although the the belfry still exists, its original three bells, destroyed during the hurricane of 1730, were never restored.

My stomach was starting to rumble and my feet were starting to ache, but there was one more church I wanted to see before I shifted gears. A couple of blocks from St. Francis of Paola church was the Iglesia y Convento de la Merced.

Having seen a few churches in the city, I had been a bit underwhelmed. This one, however, did not disappoint. One of the most beautiful churches in Havana, it was built between 1865 and 1867 in the Baroque style and is the type to make you gasp as you lay your eyes on the interior. Decorated by Cuban artists, it contains murals and frescoes throughout with highlights of light blue on the ceiling and an elegant black and white marble floor. Beautiful statuary and intricately carved stations of the cross grace its heart and it was hard not to take a seat on the old carved pews to rest and pray for a few moments. The most intriguing part of the church, however, was the chapel on the left side of the church with a full grotto installed behind the altar. Though the church is suffering from exposure to the damp air and is in need of restoration, it is truly one that I was glad that I did not miss.

Finally, it was time to continue my journey back to my temporary home. It had been a busy morning and I needed to refresh and refuel. After my lunch, it would be time to change channels from churches to the forts that lay across the channel.

From prayers to protection…all in a day in Havana!

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Casa Benito Juarez

Address: 116, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: Sunday and Tuesday only, 0930-1430.
Admission: Unknown

Statue of Simon Bolivar

Address: Mercaderes, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Convento and Basilica Menor of San Francis of Assisi

Address: Plaza de San Francisco La Habana Vieja, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0930-1800, daily
Admission: Church and Museum, $2 CUC (about $2 US), Tower $1 CUC (about $1 US), Children under 12 years, free

El Coche Mambi

Address: Oficios y Churruca, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 0930-1600. Closed Sunday.
Admission: By tour only, $2 CUC (about $2 US)

Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral

Address: Avenida del Puerto Esquina Calles Sol y Santa Clara – La Habana Vieja, Havana 10100 Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free

Terminal de Ferris (Ferry Terminal)

Address: Avenue Del Puerto, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 0400-midnight, daily.
Admission: 10 centavos (about 10 cents US)
Capacity is 90 persons and boats depart every 15 minutes

Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Regla

Address: Avenue Marti, Regla, Cuba
Hours: 0800-1700, daily
Admission: free, donations accepted

Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market

Address: Avenida del Puerto corner of Calle Cuba
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000-1800. Closed on Monday.
Admission: free

St. Francis of Paola

Address: 110 Leonor Pérez, Havana, Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free

Iglesia Y Convento de la Merced

Address: Calle de Cuba 806, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Hours listed are 0800-1200 and 1500-1700, Monday-Saturday and 0900-1300, Sunday, however, I ventured in after the noon hour, so church may or may not be closed. Mass times are 0900, Monday-Saturday and noon, Sunday
Admission: free

Nothing To Sea

With a location near the North Sea, how could you not expect to get the freshest seafood in Bruges?

The Vismarkt, also known as the Fish Market, is centrally located near Burg Square and is the place to purchase the freshest fish and seafood in the city. The current location, dating back to 1821, was erected following the townspeople’s request to move it from Market Square, where the smell was overwhelming. The building was constructed, per Napoleon’s order to the city mayor to modernize public facilities, and still remains in excellent condition.

Though it would have been nice to see the market in action, we visited on a Monday, one of the two days the market is closed. The covered arcade usually bustles with fishmongers hawking their catch and sometimes artists and artisans displaying their creations. If you have to pick a day to visit, however, Friday nights, during summer, offer live concerts and open-air tapas bars with fish based snacks.

For those interested in the history of the city and hoping to get something for dinner, combine it with a walk along the scenic canal and a photo op with the bust of former mayor Frank Van Acker.

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Vismarkt

Address, Groenerei Canal, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 0800-1330
Admission: free
Getting There: Bus, 4, 6, 14, 16, 88

The City Market

Paintings, nativity sets, masks, t-shirts, Pandora charms…

All things I might choose as a memento!

When I visit a cool city, I am always looking to find a souvenir that’s equally as cool as the city it comes from, that will bring to mind the great time that I had or add to one of my existing collections.

In Charleston, the place to go and find those mementos is the City Market, a historic market complex in the downtown area. Covering four city blocks, the market, established in the early 1800’s, is one of the oldest public markets in the nation and listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Since this awesome shopping arcade was located across the street from my hotel, I spent quite a bit of time wandering through the sheds and the Great Hall. There was no shortage of things to buy or eat and sometimes the whole experience was one of entertainment, watching the painters paint and jewelry makers craft their pieces. The basket weavers were of special interest to me as their pieces reminded me of the ones I have seen in Africa. This particular style, however, was originally made to winnow rice in the plantations. The sweetgrass basket tradition was passed down over time and now highly sought after as a piece of art from Charleston.

And if entertainment is what you seek, between the months of March and December, you can visit the Night Market on Friday and Saturday evenings where more than a hundred talented artists and craftsmen exhibit their wares amidst live entertainment.

City Market is home to more than 300 industrialists and is open every day of the year except December 25th. Keep in mind, however, that weekends are busier than weekdays and summer livelier than winter, where you might find a larger number of empty tables.

So if you find yourself in Charleston, enjoy being outdoors, love shopping for locally made items and appreciate meeting locals, this is your place! And when you are done with your shopping, take a climb to the top floor of the front of the market for a visit to the Confederate museum!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Charleston City Market

https://www.thecharlestoncitymarket.com/
Address: 188 Meeting St, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: Open Air Shed, 0930-1700. Great Hall, 0930-1800. Night market, March to December, 1830-2230, Friday and Saturday
Admission: free

In the Market

Shopping is one of my favorite pastimes, so it comes without saying that when I am in another country, I love to seek out the local markets for unique souvenirs and crafts.

Quito’s Mercado Artesanal La Mariscal was only a block away from our hotel and after one of our long days seeing the sights of the city, we made a quick visit to see if I could find an addition to my nativity collection. This market was very similar to the ones I had visited in Peru and Guatemala and offered some unique and sometimes similar pieces. Even though I found the Ecuadorian addition to my collection, I held off on making additional purchases.

Having heard of the large open-air market in Otavalo, we decided that we would hire a driver to take us there to see what rare treasures we could find.

The colorful Indian market is the largest in Ecuador and located about a two hour drive from Quito in the Imbabura Province of Ecuador. Market days are held every day, but the biggest days are Wednesday and Saturday and products that are offered are some of the nicest in Latin America.

Built in 1970 on the Plaza de los Ponchos, the market consists of concrete umbrella shaped stalls with benches. A prime tourist destination, the town attracts visitors who not only come to see what exclusive goods they can discover but those seeking a romantic destination or one that offers a wide array of outdoor activities including hiking, crater lakes, volcanoes and parks.

Parking on the street nearby, we decided on a time to meet our driver later and made our way through the rows of vendor’s tables and umbrellas to discover what makes this market one of the most recommended by everyone I had spoken to.

As it was a Saturday, the market was quite busy and had taken over all of the side streets leading to the plaza. We wove our through the rows of vendors, stopping to inspect the different wares offered by each…ponchos, jewelry, sweaters, wall hangings, shawls, purses, jackets, masks, food items…you name it! There were even nativity sets, although I was quite content with what I had purchased in Quito.

After a while, the sheer size of the market and the amount of merchandise available for purchase was quite overwhelming. With so much competition, it was easy to barter with the stall owners, many of which were dressed in traditional outfits of white embroidered blouses with lace sleeves, and black or dark blue over skirts with white underskirts for the women and white trousers and dark blue ponchos for men. Once we had made a few purchases for ourselves and family, I began to really to take note (and lots of photos) of how colorful and beautiful my surroundings were.

With quite a bit of time left before meeting our driver, I was quite content to take a seat near the front of the plaza, people watch and try to photographically capture the excitement and hustle and bustle of the market and its participants.

So, in the end…was the two hour drive worth what we discovered?

I think the market in Quito, though not as colorful and energetic as the one in Otavalo, offered just as much of a selection of goods as what we found there. It was nice, however, to be able to discover something in another Ecuadorian city and see what else this beautiful country has to offer.

And…in the end…I got some pretty cool photos!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Otavalo Market

Address: Plaza de los Ponchos, Otavalo, Imbabura 100450
Hours: Daily, 0700-1800
Admission: free
Getting There: By bus, from North Terminal, 2-3 hours depending on road work, $5 per person. By car, take the Pan American highway to the north from Quito.

Mercado de Artesanías El Mariscal

Address: Reina Victoria and Juan Leon Mera on Jorge Washington Road, Quito Pichincha 170150
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0930-1830, Saturday, 0930-1900, Sunday, 1030-1730
Admission: free

What’s In Store?

Five churches, a market, an overlook, an arch, dinner and a procession?

That’s a lot for one day!

On our third day in Antigua, we had a trip to Pacaya volcano planned during the afternoon, so we decided that after our busy previous day, we were going to take it easy and hang out near our hotel at the market during the morning.

Well, that was the plan anyway!

Entering the property from Alameda de Santa Lucia, we headed in to what we thought was the artisan’s market. Instead, we found the local market, filled with clothing, shoes, dvd’s and any other thing you could think of besides souvenirs. A little confused, we continued to walk around, thinking that maybe we had confused the El Carmen market with what we thought was here. Finally, we stumbled upon the entrance to a modern building, a little to the back and on the south side of the local market.

Built around large, centralized courtyards, the Mercado de Artesanías contains many vendors selling from their small spaces, each hoping to gain your attention and business. There is a wide variety of beautiful and colorful Guatemalan handicrafts here.

Since I had already purchased some creatively embroidered blouses and table runners the day before at the small market at Santuario San Francisco El Grande, I was only looking a nativity set and a mask for my collections and crucifixes for my parents. Of course, I was open to whatever else I could find and I had quite a bit of cash ready!

There were food and drink vendors, an ATM and clean bathrooms on site and the entire atmosphere appeared as if it had been built sometime in the last few years.

It was quite difficult to narrow down my decisions, but I learned that vendors were more willing to bargain if you were purchasing more than one item. So, Marta made me the best deals and we walked away very happy with everything I had been searching for.

At the back of the market, we found some interesting booths selling colorful bags of sawdust and paper cutouts with intricate patterns. We had seen colorful sawdust in the streets between the cobblestones. Could this all be related? It would take some time, but the significance of this would be revealed to us later!

Passing the bus station with the colorfully painted and hyped up, re-purposed school buses, called the Chicken Buses, we exited the market. My son had not found the shirts that he had hoped for so we headed back to the front of the local market for soccer shirts and then all the way back to El Carmen for t-shirts.

Taking a look at my watch, we had quite a bit of time before our pick-up for our tour, so we decided to head over to Hotel Casa Santo Domingo. The young lady at our front desk had told us that the hotel had a museum and ruins within and it was worth making our way there.

At this point, we were a couple of blocks away, so, why not?

Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, a five star hotel, is built within and around the ruins of a cathedral and this forms the basis of a number of museums and art galleries all accessed via the hotel with the one admission price. Though it took some doing to figure out the entrance point, eventually we made our way through hallways until we reached the main lobby and then the grounds… here, we were blown away!

Once the church and convent of Santo Domingo and Santo Tomás de Aquino (Saint Thomas Aquinas) College, there are six museums on the premises in addition to restaurants and the hotel; the Colonial Museum, the Archaeology Museum, the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art and Modern Glass, the Silver Museum, the Pharmacy Museum and the Marco Augusto Quiroa and the Artists Halls.

There were beautiful gardens to walk through and ruins which included the Chapel of the Niches, the Main Cloister and Fountain, the Convent Crypt which contained human remains, the Capitulary Chamber and the Cathedral, which was set up for Easter Sunday Mass.

As we walked around the premises, it was quite surreal to see balconies of hotel rooms and to hear families playing in the adjacent swimming pool.

Around the central courtyard, we watched workers decorate the area around the fountain…using stencils, much like we had just seen at the market, they sprinkled colorful sawdust through the openings, creating unique patterns. This pattern was highlighted with fruits and vegetables, similar to what we had seen at Santuario San Francisco El Grande. Now, it was starting to make sense. Could this be related to the carpets that everyone was talking about?

Leaving Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, we realized that we had just enough time to stop by an awesome little restaurant that we had seen the day before…Antojitos Salvadorenos. Years ago, in Belize, we had papusas for the first time. Over the years, I have made a point of ordering them when available and today was not going to be the exception.

For those who are not familiar with papusas, they are doughy, delicious corn tortillas stuffed with a mixture of meat and cheese and then served with pickled slaw (Curtido) and tangy sauce. This artsy little restaurant, definitely did not disappoint, both price-wise and taste-wise!

Walking quickly, we made it back to our hotel, with just enough time to freshen up and gather what we needed for our volcano hike.

Everything else in Guatemala had so far exceeded our expectations…would the Pacaya volcano do so as well?

To be continued…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Mercado de Artesanías

Address: H746+v5 Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: free

Hotel Casa Santa Domingo

http://www.casasantodomingo.com.gt/default-en.html
Address: 3a Calle Oriente No. 28 “A”, La Antigua Guatemala
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: 48Q (about $6.25 US)

Antojito Salvadoreño

Address: 4a Calle Oriente, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 1000-2100, daily
Specialty items: Papusas