El Diario de Guatemala OCHO

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.


DIA OCHO

My second day at school was going to be the deciding factor of whether or not I was going to make it in the Spanish language educational system of Antigua!
Day two at my other school was when the frustration began to set in, so I was nervous for my class.

Although we began going over some of the irregular verbs, I felt like Patricia never got frustrated with my lack of understanding. It didn’t help that while we were going over my lessons that I received a text from my tour company informing me that my flights for my tour to Tikal could not be booked for Saturday. I was so distracted, trying to think of how to fix this problem, that I wasn’t really paying attention to my Spanish lesson and I think my teacher could see this. It was with great relief when class was finished. But don’t think this got me off the hook…Patricia gave me a great deal of homework!

After class, I ran over to the tour agency to speak with Claudia about the alternatives for my Tikal trip. I had already extended my stay at my Airbnb to accommodate this trip so there wasn’t an option to just not go. In the end, we settled on my tour to Tikal for Sunday. It is going to be a very long day with pick up around 3 AM and return to Antigua around 9 PM. Since I am leaving the next morning to go back to Guatemala City to catch my flight to the United States, I am sure that I’m going to be extremely exhausted, however, I feel as though I must absolutely visit this Mayan wonder!

That taken care of, I made note of the good weather and decided to finally go to my favorite ruins, Convento Santa Clara. I truly think this is one of the most beautiful in the city! Since it was a weekday, I found the place to be mostly empty and the best part was that there were no young lovers hiding in dark corners!

Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara
Convento Santa Clara

After my visit to the convent, I decided to go to the Artisans market. It was a bit tough finding what I really wanted and negotiating in Spanish, but I found a few gifts that worked. Once done, I was making my way back to my apartment, passing under Santa Catalina Arch, when I noticed a store on my right just past one of my favorite restaurants, Frida’s. This store, Nim Po’t, was like the Artisan’s Superstore. Almost everything that I had just seen at the Artisan’s Market was in this store…plus some! (And they take credit cards!). I made mental notes on everything I wanted to purchase and when I arrived at my apartment, I wrote out my shopping list so that when I returned, I wouldn’t forget anything.

So, as I was making this shopping list, I was realizing that I was doing everything possible, to avoid my homework…thinking about going to eat out…thinking about editing pictures…thinking about calling home…you name it…I thought about doing it. Finally, I pulled out my work and took a look. It was much tougher than I thought. So, what does one do when you don’t understand your Spanish homework? You send a copy of it to your Spanish-speaking friends and have them do it for you! Well not really do it for you…but tell you some of the answers so you could see if you got them correct.

You know, everyone needs a helping hand or two every now and then!

What I learned today: the Spanish verb, “mandar”, which means to send and “a tiempo” which means on time. Next time I send my passport information to the tour agency in a timelier manner.

Photo of the day: Convento Santa Clara

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Convento Santa Clara

  • Address: Sur at 6 Calle Oriente 2, Antigua, GT 03001
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Q40

Nim Po’t

  • https://www.nimpotexport.com/
  • Address: 5ta. Avenida Norte 29, Antigua Guatemala
  • Hours: Monday through Thursday, 1000-1900, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-2000.

El Diario de Guatemala SIETE

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DIA SIETE

Today is D-Day.

This is the day that I see if I made the right decision in switching Spanish schools.
After I made my breakfast, I took the looooonnnngggg walk…across the street… Literally, my kitchen window looks directly at my new school’s door. Yes, as I ate my microwave omelet, I was thinking that this was a sign. An omen. Maybe I was supposed to be at Antiguena Spanish School from the very beginning.

Nervously, I rang the bell and I was greeted by four or five people (teachers, I suppose) and then ushered into the director’s office. After I signed some papers and paid my weekly tuition, I was introduced to my new teacher Patricia.

Patricia was a bit older than my former teacher and as we got started on our lessons, I felt that she was much more experienced. I was confident in my interactions with her and she was very complementary with all of my responses. As the day closed, I felt very good about my lessons, yet was it too early to feel like I had made the right decision? I had also felt very good about my other teacher on the first day…
After I crossed the street and made my lunch, I made a plan for the rest of the afternoon. First, I headed over to a tour agency to inquire about a day trip to Tikal, then I stopped by the local clinic to see what day I could complete my COVID test for my return trip home.

Boring stuff completed, it was on to the fun stuff! Heading north, I walked a few blocks to the ruins of San Sebastián church. Only because we had passed near here on our way to Lake Atitlan was I aware that this church existed. It appeared to be much like the many other churches in the city and I took a couple of quick photographs.

Ruins of Iglesia de San Sebastian
Ruins of Iglesia de San Sebastian

Next, I took a quick tour of the Convent of Iglesia de Merced. Although, this church and ruins was a half a block away from my apartment and I had spent my breaks from school standing in front of the church, I had yet to make it inside this time while I was in Antigua.

Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced

It was wonderful to be back, but yes, I wish that the fountain which is the centerpiece of the property (and the largest in Central America), had been operating.
I had also looked forward to seeing the spectacular views of the volcanoes in the distance, but as I made my way to the top level of the cloister, a light rain was starting to move in. The horizon was cloudy so the only view I had was of the surrounding homes and businesses. As I stood near the railing, spying on the Mercedarian’s beautiful courtyard, I spotted something familiar. Next door was the courtyard of my old school. Thank goodness no one was looking up because I’m not supposed to be in town! Don’t ask…

Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Mercedarian Courtyard
Do Pedro de Alvarado Spanish School Courtyard
Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced

Despite the rain, I headed over to one of my favorite landmarks, the Capuchin Convent. I was banking on the rain stopping and I won that bet. Not long after I arrived, the skies cleared and I was able to enjoy the cloister and grounds of this amazing property. It’s no wonder that people choose this location for wedding and quinceanera photos as well the actual weddings themselves.

Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas Crypt
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas

Something I had been noticing at many of the ruins really bothered me…people carving their names into the ancient walls….Jacky y Berna, D y G…a lot of these names were surrounded by hearts suggesting that young lovers had visited together and wanted to record their dying affection. Well, I discovered something else today. Locals can visit the ruins for a modest sum…about 25 cents compared to my entrance fee, as a foreigner, of about $5.00. As most families have multiple generations living under the same roof, this doesn’t offer young people much privacy. Guess where the young lovers go to spend time together? Apparently, the Capuchin Convent is a popular place with its many dark former nun’s cells. Yes, I walked in on not just one couple, but a few!

On my way home tonight, I was thinking about all of the wonderful restaurants in the city. There was a bar and grill that I walked by every day as it was only three doors down from my apartment. Appearances are always very deceiving in Antigua with storefronts hiding what’s really deep inside…beautiful courtyards and interiors. As I walked by this particular restaurant, I was realizing that I had to figure out what I was going to do for dinner. On a whim and drawn in by the amazing Latin music, I decided to have a seat and dinner. I was craving a burger and when the waitress took my order she asked if I wanted two!

Am I so fat that I look like I can eat so much?

It was actually “two-for-one” night and she offered to package one of the burgers up for me to take home. I wasn’t really expecting much but when my plate arrived, I was greeted by the largest burger I have ever seen! And not only was it big, but it was muy delicioso!!! The best part was that for two gigantic burgers, fries and three beers, my bill came to a whopping $15.00.

I’d say that was a good way to end the day! New day, new teacher, new favorite restaurant!

What I learned: Be mindful when entering darkened rooms at the landmarks of Antigua!

Photo of the day: Convento Capuchinas

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Antiguena Spanish Academy

  • https://www.spanishacademyantiguena.com/
  • Address: 1a Calle Poniente #10 Antigua Guatemala, Sacatepequez 03001
  • Rates: $ 110 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200. $ 135 one-week classes, 5 hours, 5 days from 0800-1300. $ 165 one-week classes, 6 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200 and 1400-1600 or 1600-1800. $ 175 one-week for both (not each), if you and a friend shared a teacher 4 hours, 5 days. $90 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days, 1300-1700.

Antigua Parroquia San Sebastian (ruins)

  • Address: H777+P9 Antigua, Guatelmala on Plazuela San Sebastian

Church and Convent of Our Lady of La Merced

  • Address: 1a Calle Poniente & 6a Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: Church, 0830-1745, Convent, 0830-1200 and 1400-1745
  • Admission: Adults, Q40 (about $5.00 USD)

Convento Capuchinas

  • Address: Av Norte at 2 Calle Oriente 2, Centro, Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults, national Q5 (about 60 cents USD), Adults, foreign, Q40 (about $5.00)

Puerta Once Antigua (Door Eleven)

El Diario de Guatemala CUATRO

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.


DIA CUATRO

Figuring out how to cook scrambled eggs in the microwave saved me about twenty minutes this morning. Why have I never figured this out before?

Because of my discovery, I was actually able to leisurely walk to school this morning.
I must admit, I wasn’t eager to begin my day in the classroom. I felt a bit frustrated even with the studying I had done the night before. But I was here to learn and I was going to try my hardest!

The school day began very well and I had some “Aha!” moments when I understood some forms of the verbs I was studying. I felt like I was finally getting somewhere! After my break, I returned to the table with my teacher. Like yesterday, I felt like we lost a bit of steam. On this day, I think she misinterpreted some things I told her and I began to feel like she was getting frustrated with me which, in turn, was making me frustrated. Next thing you know, she had me playing Scrabble in Spanish. Now, I suck at Scrabble in English and I pulled some bad tiles. I couldn’t even make words in English, much less in Spanish and she made me play for an hour until class was finished. Enough said.

Maybe this wasn’t the best fit after all. She was a lovely person and I enjoyed our interactions, but I was distracted by the other student and I noticed that she was spending a lot of time listening to his lesson.

During lunchtime in my apartment, I glanced out of my window at the door across the street.

Academia de Antiguena. This had been my second choice of schools.
Putting aside my quesadillas, I walked over and rang the bell. Speaking with the director, I explained my situation, was given a tour of both facilities and offered one of only two spots available for the following week.

Maybe I made the right decision…maybe not, but school is even closer, it’s a lot cheaper and has better facilities. I think that all of those are positives.

Once that was done, it was time to get my culture of the day. One of my favorite places I visited a couple of years ago was the Convento de Recoleccion. This convent and basilica were destroyed during the earthquake of 1773. The ceiling of the Basilica collapsed into the church, leaving the walls standing. Visitors are allowed to enter the remains of the basilica and make their way around the giant, boulder-like remains. It makes for some amazing photos! Connected to the basilica is the remains of the convent. It contains a few open courtyards flanked by many rooms. With not so many visitors in the city, I had the place to myself…what a peaceful afternoon!

What I learned today: Volcano Fuego is erupting nearby and there was an earthquake last Sunday. Sometimes the universe wants you to “shake it up”.

Photo of the day: Convento de Recoleccion

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Convento de Recoleccion

  • Address: 1a Calle Poniente and Avenida de la Recoleccion
  • Hours: 0900-1700
  • Admission: Adults, foreign, 40Q (about 5.50 USD)

El Diario de Guatemala TRES

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.


DIA TRES

Today I woke up eager to return to my classes and show off my stuff! I was feeling pretty good about yesterday!

I guess the day had other plans for me. First of all, my stove top wouldn’t heat up my pan and it took me about 20 minutes to cook my eggs, causing me to have to run to school, sans mask, getting a few dirty looks and making me arrive about a minute late. One minute late doesn’t sound so bad to most people but the flight attendant in me was freaking out…this “plane” was late and I hate making anyone wait.

My lessons began and I started out telling Heydi about my day yesterday. I was able to describe in Spanish, in pretty good detail about my trip to San Jeronimo, the supermarket, what I bought and what I had for dinner as well as what I watched on Netflix.

After this, she insisted on trying to teach me some verbs I didn’t know. The nerve! These verbs had very different endings and I was so confused. This led me to continually make simple mistakes…mistakes on things I actually knew which was completely frustrating!

She gave me homework and told me that I really need to study. Of course, I knew that I was going to have to study, but I just felt very degraded after class.
I returned to my Airbnb, made some mini quesadillas and eyed my cerveza…in that moment I felt like I really could use a beer! Later. There were things to see in the city!

The sun was out and it was warmer than usual, so I decided that I needed a little field trip and some exercise. Walking toward the north of the city, I began the climb to the top of Cerro de la Cruz, the hill that overlooks the city and sports a large cross. A few hundred steps later, I was sitting on the wall, gazing over the city and praying that the clouds would part a little more so that I could see the top of the Volcan de Agua, the volcano that towers over the area.

Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz

While gazing over the city, I had spotted the ruins of the convent, Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus and decided that this would be my next destination. As I headed down the hill, I first stopped at the remains of the Church of Candelaria, captured a few photos and then walked to the convent. It had been one of the first ruins that my son, Ian, and I had visited two years ago and we had enjoyed its beautiful cloister and fountain. I spent some time meandering through its many rooms and was just about to leave when the gentleman who sold me my ticket asked me a question (in Spanish).

The ruins of the Church of Candelaria

Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus

“Did you see the crypt and the basilica?”

Um, no.

He showed me on the map, adjacent to the door, the layout of the building and pointing to a set of stairs in a room, that I had not entered as I thought it to be a storage room.

I followed his directions and amazingly, there was a set of steps leading down into a room which also led to the ruins of the basilica. In the far corner, there was also a set of stairs leading to the old crypt.

There was nothing much in the crypt, but as I headed back up and into the basilica, I was simply amazed. Not just because you could still see much of the workmanship being restored, but because it is baffling that visitors are allowed in this area of construction…scaffolding, tools, bags of cement and goodness knows what else filled the space. In the United States, this would have been condemned and no one allowed near, much less in the building. Despite the mess, it was wonderful to see this space up close, as I had only spied it from the street, behind the gate.

Thanking the gentleman, we exchanged pleasantries (in Spanish, of course) and I explained that I was in Antigua for Spanish school. He asked how long I had been there and I said it was my second day. He told me I was very smart for learning that much in just two days! Lol! I got a good laugh out of that but I went on letting him believe I was muy inteligente!

Continuing my explorations, I admired the architecture of the area and the unique doors and doorknockers and then headed over to the El Carmen market, pausing to snap a few photos of the ruins of El Carmen church next door.

Ruins of El Carmen Catholic Church
Ruins of El Carmen Catholic Church

I had vowed not to buy anything early in my trip, but next thing you know I was walking out with a table runner. Okay, I am a bit of a sucker sometimes…it was Father’s Day in Guatemala, after all, and he hadn’t had a sale all day!

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen

As I exited the market, I heard a large boom! Praying it wasn’t one of the nearby volcanoes, I realized that I was feeling a few raindrops!

Time to go home.

What do you do when it’s pouring outside?

Have happy hour!

That was a good ending to the day that didn’t start so well!

What I learned: There are many hidden treasures in Guatemala, you just have to talk to the right person, in the right language, to find them!

Photo of the day: The Cloister of Convento Santa Teresa de Jesus

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Cerro de La Cruz

  • Address: Al final de la 1ª Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala 03001
  • Hours: 0700-1800, daily
  • Admission: free

Convento Santa Teresa De Jesus

  • Address: 1era calle Oriente y 4a Avenida sur. Antigua Guatemala
  • Hours: 0800-1700, daily
  • Admission: Q40 (about $5.50 US)

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen

  • Address: Avenida 3ra, 3ra Calle Oriente, Antigua 03001
  • Hours: 0800-2000, daily

The Nun’s Nest

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As a young, Catholic girl in Louisiana, I attended Catholic school.

In my white shirt and pleated, dark navy skirt, I happily attended school every day, eager to learn not only the rudimentary lessons but the religious ones as well.

Though many of my teachers were non-clerical, I did have the privilege to be taught by a handful of nuns over the years. Sisters Martial, Cecilia, Fatima, Roland and David.

These nuns resided in the nearby convent and we always loved going there to help with projects and pray in the chapel. It was such a feeling of peace and a peek into a completely different way of life.

While traipsing around the French Quarter, I happened upon the Ursaline Convent and Museum. Disappointed to find that it had just closed for the day, I turned away eager to return as soon as possible. The next day, I was back, bright and early, to tour the oldest building in the Mississippi Valley that acted as home, orphanage and school for the Ursaline Nuns.

After LaSalle’s discovery of the mouth of the Mississippi, Father Nicolas Ignace de Beaubois (with the help of Governor Bienville) sought out the assistance of the Ursaline nuns to travel to France’s first settlement in the lower Mississippi Valley.

There was a great need for ministering at the poorly run hospital and also for the education of the young girls of the colony.

The nuns arrived in 1727 and the convent built for them was completed in 1734. After the city’s first Eucharistic procession, the nuns accompanied by notables and citizens, they moved into their new home which faced the river. The convent served as home and the center of operations for the hospital and school until the new convent on Chartres Street was completed in 1752.

This new convent, built slightly before the city’s grand Cathedral, was constructed in the French Colonial style. It has been described as “the finest surviving example of French Colonial public architecture in the country” by the National Parks Service.

It was this two-story white plastered brick building that I gazed upon as I entered through the old stone walls. But what set off this beautifully simple building was the green maze of a garden that lay before it. Stopping for a moment, I admired the old bell and the cast iron cross in the courtyard which was a gift of the city of Rouen, France to commemorate the arrival of the nuns.

Making my way between the hedges, I headed inside to see what I might find. Admiring the beautiful stained glass above the double doorway, I stepped into the foyer, taking in the wooden stairway, golden statue of Madonna and Child and a tall, wooden clock. This clock, I learned, was constructed from elements brought by the Ursalines in 1727. When the nuns were asked to establish a convent in Galveston, Texas in the 19th century, the community gifted it to them upon their departure. As a devastating hurricane swept through southern Texas in 1900, it took the lives of nine nuns, ninety students and thousands of residents. The clock survived, however, and was returned to New Orleans in the first decade of the 20th century.

The Ursaline Room was adjacent to the foyer and was originally the orphan’s dining room. Facing the river, these young residents could look out at the dark, fast moving Mississippi and realize that another life awaited them once they aged out of the orphanage. This room is now empty, save for a large statue and a handmade chasuble dating back to the 18th century. The original cypress ceiling beams are visible overhead.

It was here that I also learned of the Sweetheart statue. The small plastered statue was found in a convent attic in France by Sister Felicite. Despaired to see it so carelessly cast aside, she prayed for an immediate departure to the new French colony and was granted her leave almost immediately with the statue in tow. In 1788, this statue was placed by one of the nuns in the window of the convent as fire raged through New Orleans. The approaching fire was suddenly blown back by the wind and died out, keeping the convent safe. This statue has since then been credited with many astonishing miracles.

Making my way through what appeared to be a small sanctuary, I found myself inside St. Mary’s Church. This church was built in 1845 and served as the bishop’s chapel, the place of worship for the bishops and archbishops of New Orleans when they were in residence at the convent. It was the third chapel built on the site and it was interesting to learn that a bell tower that once stood at the location was destroyed by the 1914 hurricane.

The church was quiet and I made my way through admiring the beautiful altar, framed by angel and cherub statues. There were many other statues in church and the stations of the cross were distributed between the tall stained glass windows. It wasn’t until later during my tour, after talking with one of the staff that I learned that only one side of the church’s windows were authentic stained glass…the other side painted. I immediately went back to the church to seek out the window where it was discovered that it was not stained when cleaning and part of the bottom of the scene was rubbed off.

St. Mary’s Church Exterior

Exiting the chapel, I headed into the far side of the convent, where you can see some of the small cells where the nuns resided. One of these small rooms is currently being used as an administrative office and the others have been enlarged to house exhibitions. The most current being The Church In The Crescent: Three Hundred Years of Catholicism in New Orleans.  This exhibit highlights the history of the city and the elegant St. Louis Cathedral. Emerging from a small wooden church to the present day construction, its story is displayed for visitors to examine in the form of photographs, portraits, letters and artifacts. Although I had already visited the Cathedral, after the watching the documentary available for visitors, there was so much explained about the interior of the building that I almost wanted to go back and take another look!

Finally, I headed outside to the space that is now being used for wedding receptions. Once a wedding has been finalized in the chapel, the bride, groom and guests can head out to the tented area at the rear of the convent for the reception.

Beyond the tented area, however, is what caught my attention…a grotto containing the Madonna and child and the life-sized statues of priests and nuns praying. Each statue’s expression was unique, but one of utter reverence. Absolutely breathtaking!

As a Catholic, I truly enjoyed my visit as it stirred up fond memories of my childhood, however, anyone interested in the rich history of the city and its architecture would truly be enthralled with this amazing museum. Pray your way there!

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Old Ursaline Convent Museum

  • https://www.oldursulineconventmuseum.com/
  • Address: 2505, 1100 Chartres St, New Orleans, LA 70116
  • Hours: Monday-Friday, 1000-1600, (last admission at 1515) Saturday, 0900-1500 (last admission at 1415). Sunday, Closed.
  • Admission: General Admission, $8.00, Seniors, $7.00, Students/Military, $6.00