Wow, two weeks have come and gone very quickly! On my last morning, I was up quite early so after getting dressed, I headed over to the bakery around the corner to get breakfast. As I turned to return to my apartment, I caught a glimpse of Volcan de Agua. With nary a cloud in the sky, it stood out against the blue and was one of the clearest views I had had since I arrived. After breakfast, I took one last walk down to the Plaza Mayor and snapped a few photographs along the way. It was simply stunning!
It was finally time to grab my bags and wait for my ride back to Guatemala City. Handing over the keys to Esperanza, I felt a twinge of sadness. My trip was finally over. Last night, on my ride back to Antigua, one of the guys from my tour, who had shared transportation back with me, asked what my favorite thing was about being here in Guatemala this time. I think most people would talk about the adventures that they had but my response was this, “I simply loved having adequate time to investigate every little nook and cranny of the city, taking leisurely walks, greeting the locals and feeling like an actual part of another culture. Because of the nature of my job, I see other parts of the world in short bursts. This time, time was on my side and it was an amazing gift”.
What I learned: My husband is a saint for helping me to realize one of my dreams.
Photo of the day: Volcan de Agua
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This morning was an important one and I guess that why I was up at 3:30 am.
It was COVID test day!
It really bothers me that another country will allow me to enter with my vaccine card, yet the country where I received my vaccine requires me to have a COVID test to enter and my vaccine card carries no weight. So, on my trip, I have to spend time and money to get this test in order to return home within 72 hours of departure. With clinics not open on Sundays and only half days on Saturdays, you really have to plan accordingly.
My Airbnb host had told me of a clinic nearby that was charging $50, but thankfully, I asked around and found another about three blocks away that charged $35. They were extremely helpful with my questions during the week and greeted me warmly when they arrived.
Yes, I was the first person in line, thanks to my early awakening!
Watching the early deliveries while waiting for the clinic to open.
Heading back to my apartment after my test, I had breakfast and killed some time before heading back to get my negative result!
It was early and the day was looking to be a beautiful one, so I decided to walk to the Colegio Campania de Jesus (which was closed again) and ended up at the Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales in the Plaza Mayor. It’s a small museum that introduces the colonial life during the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries through paintings, furniture and historical artifacts. There is also an important collection of weapons which gives the museum its title.
Colegio Compania de JesusColegio Compania de JesusView of Volcan Agua from Plaza MayorPlaza Mayor Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales Weapons Exhibit at Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesView from Upper Level of Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesMuseo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes GeneralesWalkway in front of Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Across the plaza, I headed to the Museo Los Libros, but found it to be closed. I was very disappointed as I had heard that it has a beautiful interior and an interesting collection of books.
Museo Los Libros
Returning to my apartment (after a few shopping stops), I began the arduous process of packing. How do you fit your numerous purchases into your bags that had already come full? Well, that was a work in progress all day!
After lunch, I headed back out, bound for the southernmost part of town. It was a long walk, but I wanted to see El Calvario church. I had learned of this church and their procession during Semana Santa during my last visit. I don’t think we witnessed their procession, but I remember seeing the church’s location on the map and thinking what a long way they had to travel. Along the street leading to El Calvario, I noticed many small chapels that were numbered with Roman numerals. They were locked, but noticing that they led to the church, I assumed (correctly) that they were Stations of the Cross, with the final one on the church grounds.
Stations of the Cross on the way to El Calvario
El Calvario’s exterior was a bright yellow, very different from others in the city and its grounds were well maintained. Entering the church, I found it to be rather minimalistic with a barrel vault and dual-colored stained-glass windows. I didn’t stay long as I was reprimanded for taking photos. What I did learn later was that the church’s walls were once graced with paintings by 18th century colonial artist Tomás de Merlo, which were taken a few years ago by thieves. These paintings which depicted the Passion of the Christ were valued at approximately $300,000 each and were prized possessions of the church. Sadly, they have not been recovered.
El Calvario ChurchEl Calvario ChurchEl Calvario Church
One of the highlights of a visit to the church is the Esquisúchil tree in the garden which was planted in 1657 by Holy Saint Hermano Pedro de San Jose de Betancourt, Central America’s only saint. This tree, with its aromatic flowers is believed to have curative powers.
Statue of Holy Saint Hermano Pedro de San Jose de Betancourt and the Esquisúchil tree The Gardens of El Calvario Church
Soon on my way, I passed the ruins of the old El Calvario church and then the church of San Jose de Viejo, which is still in operation and has the appearance of many of the ruined churches.
Ruins of Old El Calvario ChurchThe Church of San Jose de ViejoThe Church of San Jose de Viejo
Finally, I took a less direct route home, enjoyed the different scenery, eventually stopping at a Venezuelan restaurant for a quick dinner of pastelitos and tequenos! Yum! That was perfect for an early night!
Sights Around the AntiguaSights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Ermita de Santa Lucia
Ermita de Santa Lucia
Tikal in the morning!!!
What I learned: Bring an extra suitcase to Guatemala for your purchases.
Photo of the day: No parking
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Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
My last day at Academia Espanol de Antiguena…and I was kind of sad. Ever since I had started studying Spanish last year, I had dreamt of coming to Antigua when Covid restrictions were lifted. I had finally done what I had set out to do and fulfilled my goal.
Am I fluent now? Absolutely not.
Does my accent and use of the language make the locals cringe? Probably so.
But as the morning went on, I learned that I do understand a great deal. One of the things I enjoyed most was when Patricia and I had conversations about our lives. Similar in age, length of marriages and sexes of our children (yay boys!), there was much that we had in common outside of the fact that we live in separate countries. When Patricia talked about her life, I understood most of what she said, but it was frustrating that I couldn’t communicate everything I wanted to tell her. I’m just not there yet.
Earlier in the week, I had asked Patricia if she knew of a place that I could donate some clothes. I had brought along some clothing items that I no longer wore at home. While I wore them here, I had no plans to bring them back to Virginia. She had named a few places for me, but I was hoping she would volunteer to give the items to people she knew who might need them. And that’s what she did!
The day before, I had worn a very colorful shirt with a nice pattern. When I walked into our classroom, she complemented me and said how much she liked the design. I was on the fence about leaving that particular shirt, however, when I found out she liked it so much, I decided that it had to go in the bag! When I handed her the bag of clothing and she noticed that shirt on the top, her eyes lit up and I told her that she should keep that shirt for herself! In fact, if Patricia likes that whole bag of clothing for herself, then I hope she keeps it and enjoys it.
Every day during class, I brought an insulated, Yeti-type cup to class, filled with my bebida del dia, Coca Cola Sin Azucar, because you know…I needed my caffeine to help my brain translate. One day, she asked me about the cup and if it kept drinks both cold and hot. She told me the word for that type of cup and mentioned that they don’t sell anything like that here. On my last day, I found out that it was “Teachers Day” in Guatemala when Patricia brought in a little goodie bag given to her by the Director with some hand sanitizer and a small bottle of liqueur. Even though it might be strange by our standards to give someone a cup that you were just drinking out of, I decided that she might like it. I told her that it would need some washing but if she would like to have it, it was my gift to her for Teachers Day. I have never seen someone’s eyes light up the way hers did and she quickly took it to empty the ice and wash it out, thanking me a million times. It really touched me and although I would’ve liked to have kept my cup to have something to drink from for the next couple of days, I realized how little many of the people here have. I can walk into Walmart on Tuesday and buy another one for seven dollars, they cannot.
While we were talking, she also mentioned how little the children here have in regard to schooling. Covid has really put a damper on the children’s education. School is not free and even when they can attend, things like books are not provided. Desks are simply wood planks placed on concrete cinder blocks. Parents have to work very hard in order to buy things that we take for granted like pencils, pens and notebooks. Now that children are having to do school online, many are not receiving instruction at all, since most families don’t have computers, phones or tablets. She told me of one teacher who, in her opinion is a true hero. She watched as children brought an egg or a vegetable as payment to him and sat in his doorway as he instructed them. When asked why he did it, he said that it was his duty.
I really wish that my children could hear these stories and realize how much they take for granted. They all have cellular phones, they have notebooks from school that only a portion of was used, they had textbooks provided for them and they have all had the privilege to attend college.
As the bells were ringing in the noon hour at Iglesia de Merced, our classes officially came to an end. I gave Patricia my email address and asked her to stay in contact with me. I told her that I hoped to return next spring and asked that if I brought supplies for the school children in her town, could she distribute them for me? I truly hope to do this and provide some assistance to those who really need it. We know that in the United States, Covid has affected our lives greatly, but it really has taken a toll on so many others worldwide.
Bidding Julio, the Director, a farewell as I walked out the door, I made my way home for the last time…across the street.
After lunch, I decided to take a walk and start some of the shopping that I needed to do. It was a lovely day and I enjoyed browsing in some of the stores I had never ventured into near the ruins of Colegio Compania de Jesus. After a few blocks, I found myself in the Plaza Mayor. Walking under the portico, I stopped to inspect some embroidered blouses in a store. I suddenly realized that a hallway led to an artisan’s market that I did not know existed. Searching for different nativity sets (which I collect), is always first and foremost when I am abroad. Although I had a beautiful one that I purchased here before, I was searching for something a little different made of a bleached wood. I had just about given up hope of finding what I wanted when I stopped in a store and asked about nativity sets. The young woman reached behind some other statues and started to pull out a nine-piece set that was exactly what I was looking for!
Ruins of Colegio Compania de Jesus
The owner, Roberto, and I struck up a conversation and although the price was a little high, we made a deal. There were some beautiful items in his shop and if anyone is ever in the central plaza, you should take a look at Mayanwood #20 in El Mercadito Artisans market! He’s a pleasure to talk to!
Roberto, Stall #20El Mercadito Artisanias
The much sought-after nativity set, as seen in La Aurora Airport for almost twice the price!
Finally, I made my way back to my other favorite store, Nim Po’t, with my shopping list in hand. It took two baskets to get everything I needed and I left wondering how the heck I was going to get it all in my suitcase!
It was time to celebrate my successes in Spanish school tonight! I headed toward the Cathedral and found a nice restaurant with a quaint courtyard, Las Atorchas (The Torches). Honestly, I don’t know if you can get a bad meal here. Everywhere I go, I enjoy the most amazing food, including tonight, a chicken curry with Guatemalan flare. It was absolutely delightful!
Cerveza in hand, I toasted myself for making it this far and wished myself luck with my future studies.
My Spanish-speaking amigos and amigas had better be ready to help me practice!
What I learned: Always go with your gut. If I hadn’t changed schools I wouldn’t have had the lovely experiences that I had this week.
Photo of the day: The Fountain of the Plaza Mayor
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Rates: $ 110 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200. $ 135 one-week classes, 5 hours, 5 days from 0800-1300. $ 165 one-week classes, 6 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200 and 1400-1600 or 1600-1800. $ 175 one week for both (not each), if you and a friend shared a teacher 4 hours, 5 days. $90 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days, 1300-1700.
El Mercadito Artisans Market
Address: 5a Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala. Adjacent to Plaza Mayor, next to Wendy’s.
I blew another fuse! But this time, both appliances were not plugged in at the same time. Even though I have been drying my hair here for a week, something had obviously changed with the electrical system. Determined to not contact my host, I tried to find the caretaker and when I was unsuccessful, I left a note on my door (in Spanish) hoping she would spot it before I returned for lunch.
Honestly, I was getting a bit tired and hadn’t slept much the night before. I wasn’t in the mood for school today and was counting down the minutes until we were finished, as I was ready to do something a little different today. But the bright spot was that it was a beautiful day and when I mentioned to my teacher that you could see the volcano so well, she suggested we go to the roof and take a look. It was a spectacular view!
Upon my return to my apartment after school, I found the note still on my door and the lights still dark. So that I didn’t return to a dark apartment tonight, I had to swallow my pride and contact my host once again, to confess my sin, praying that he would not yell at me, or rather, send me a very strongly worded response about my personal appliances!
The plan for the afternoon was to make my way to the main building that houses my school, for one of the cultural events they host each week. Only about a twelve-minute walk, I left a little early to make sure that I remembered which door it was, as none of them are marked. Thankfully, a couple of other girls were arriving when I did, so I found the entrance and ventured inside. Taking a seat, I discovered that it was my teacher that was doing the presentation on traditional wedding attire.
During class, she had asked me about attending and asked if I would be her model, however, I thought I had misunderstood her, although of course my answer was “Si” (my favorite Spanish word!). When the presentation started and she asked for a model, she went straight to me! So, she really was serious!
The clothing that she was describing is the traditional dress of the local pueblos. These amazing pieces are constructed by hand and take about six months, with young girls helping from the age of seven. First, I donned the “guipil”, the blouse, which was embroidered with colorful birds. The girls in the class were remarking that it looked really cute with my jeans and sandals! Next, she placed “el sute es la pieza de tela”, fabric wrapped to make a skirt, around my hips. Finally, she cinched the “cinturon” or “la faja cuesta qinientos” around my waist. As she pulled tightly, I thought maybe I should wear this all day long to remind me not to eat so many tortillas! Lastly, an embroidered mantle was placed around my shoulders. She described how a young woman would wear this on her head for her wedding and then later tie it into a basket or into a sling to carry her baby.
All of these pieces were remarkable and obviously a lot of time and patience went into their creation. When asked how much these would cost if having to purchase them, the total was staggering…about $13,500 Quetzals…approximately $1800 USD…a fortune in Guatemala!
After another couple donned outfits for their pseudo wedding and the festivities were described to us, we were offered pepian, a traditional Guatemalan dish of Mayan origin.
This was a fun diversion from my usual routine, and I enjoyed meeting some of the other students. What I discovered that I was missing while having my class just across the street from my apartment, was the camaraderie many of them shared during their breaks.
I walked home with two other students and decided to get my homework done before dinner and then I took a walk.
Finding myself at Tanque La Union, the historic place that people gathered to wash their clothes during colonial times, I grabbed a seat and of course a few photos. The park that fronts this spot is a popular gathering place for locals and it’s great for people watching.
Tanque La Union
I found myself wanting to go out this evening and ended up at the pizzeria that I had gotten takeout (para llevar-important word for those who want food-to-go) from last week. Vice Pizzeria has an amazing rooftop bar, fun music and spectacular views. This time, however, I didn’t care for my choice of pizza…chorizo…the bar next door’s was way better and way cheaper…like half the price! Still, I had a great view of the goings-on on the street and the full moon and that’s always interesting!
My last day of school was tomorrow, and I wasn’t sure what to feel. Excitement and sadness all rolled into one…I’ll have to deal with that…manana.
What I learned today: Because of the design of the traditional clothing, there is lots of room for expansion…hint, hint…lots of tortillas and pepian and your skirt will still fit!
Photo of the day: Tanque La Union
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One in my apartment. I guess plugging in your hairdryer and your curling iron into the same set of plugs is a “no go” here.
I was already running late, and this happened. My hair was still wet, so I grabbed my hat and headed downstairs where I discovered, as I looked to see what time it was, that the microwave still had power, as did the refrigerator. I plugged in my little fan and discovered there was power in the downstairs outlets so I ran and grabbed my hairdryer and dried my hair in the kitchen (in the dark), looking at my reflection in the microwave, all the while thinking that I couldn’t cook my eggs.
Exactly…I wasn’t thinking. It wasn’t until I got to the bakery around the corner to get croissants that I realized that I could’ve cooked my microwave eggs! Maybe it was my subconscious wanting me to get croissants this morning!
I felt more confident in my class today and I got glowing reviews for my knowledge of the uses of “Hay” and “Hay que”…thanks to Fannie’s help! Class passed fairly quickly, and I was soon back in my apartment having a quick bite to eat and chatting with my mom on Facetime.
My middle son had an expressed an interest in me purchasing more soccer jerseys for him from the local market, so I decided that in addition to doing my homework early today (with no assistance), I would run over to look for something that he would like. I quickly found the place where he and I had bought some when we were here a couple of years ago. After a little haggling, I got the shirts I wanted for the price I wanted. It really is helpful when you know more of the language!
CentralMarket Entrance
As I walked along the streets, I realized how comfortable I was and how much more I knew about the city than from my previous visit. As anxious as I to get home, I was also very sad to think of leaving the following week. If I had to pick another city to live in, this would be the one. So, if my husband ever divorces me, you guys will know where to find me!!!
Tonight, I decided that I was going to dress up a little and try the much-recommended crepe restaurant, Luna de Miel. Just around the corner from my apartment, it was a short walk, and I was ushered upstairs to the rooftop terrace. I had discussed this restaurant with my teacher earlier today and she was a little afraid that I might be disappointed, being that I have eaten crepes in Paris often. Every table was full and the ambience was perfect. Not quite sure what to choose, I asked the waiter for his preference. He suggested Luna Parisina, which was filled with chicken, caramelized onions, mushrooms and cream. Was it as good as anything I’ve ever had in Paris? Dare I even say better? It was so delicious and I was quite full, but I decided that I simply had to have dessert. Taking a cue from my Parisian favorites, I ordered a sweet crepe with butter, cinnamon and sugar. Muy delicioso! The overall experience was one of the best I’ve had in Antigua and I think I waddled home…just a tiny bit!
What I learned today: Two things. You probably guessed it…don’t plug my hairdryer into the bathroom outlet anymore and the microwave makes a pretty decent mirror in a pinch!
Photo of the day: Chinchines at the market
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My second day at school was going to be the deciding factor of whether or not I was going to make it in the Spanish language educational system of Antigua! Day two at my other school was when the frustration began to set in, so I was nervous for my class.
Although we began going over some of the irregular verbs, I felt like Patricia never got frustrated with my lack of understanding. It didn’t help that while we were going over my lessons that I received a text from my tour company informing me that my flights for my tour to Tikal could not be booked for Saturday. I was so distracted, trying to think of how to fix this problem, that I wasn’t really paying attention to my Spanish lesson and I think my teacher could see this. It was with great relief when class was finished. But don’t think this got me off the hook…Patricia gave me a great deal of homework!
After class, I ran over to the tour agency to speak with Claudia about the alternatives for my Tikal trip. I had already extended my stay at my Airbnb to accommodate this trip so there wasn’t an option to just not go. In the end, we settled on my tour to Tikal for Sunday. It is going to be a very long day with pick up around 3 AM and return to Antigua around 9 PM. Since I am leaving the next morning to go back to Guatemala City to catch my flight to the United States, I am sure that I’m going to be extremely exhausted, however, I feel as though I must absolutely visit this Mayan wonder!
That taken care of, I made note of the good weather and decided to finally go to my favorite ruins, Convento Santa Clara. I truly think this is one of the most beautiful in the city! Since it was a weekday, I found the place to be mostly empty and the best part was that there were no young lovers hiding in dark corners!
Convento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa ClaraConvento Santa Clara
After my visit to the convent, I decided to go to the Artisans market. It was a bit tough finding what I really wanted and negotiating in Spanish, but I found a few gifts that worked. Once done, I was making my way back to my apartment, passing under Santa Catalina Arch, when I noticed a store on my right just past one of my favorite restaurants, Frida’s. This store, Nim Po’t, was like the Artisan’s Superstore. Almost everything that I had just seen at the Artisan’s Market was in this store…plus some! (And they take credit cards!). I made mental notes on everything I wanted to purchase and when I arrived at my apartment, I wrote out my shopping list so that when I returned, I wouldn’t forget anything.
So, as I was making this shopping list, I was realizing that I was doing everything possible, to avoid my homework…thinking about going to eat out…thinking about editing pictures…thinking about calling home…you name it…I thought about doing it. Finally, I pulled out my work and took a look. It was much tougher than I thought. So, what does one do when you don’t understand your Spanish homework? You send a copy of it to your Spanish-speaking friends and have them do it for you! Well not really do it for you…but tell you some of the answers so you could see if you got them correct.
You know, everyone needs a helping hand or two every now and then!
What I learned today: the Spanish verb, “mandar”, which means to send and “a tiempo” which means on time. Next time I send my passport information to the tour agency in a timelier manner.
Photo of the day: Convento Santa Clara
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Convento Santa Clara
Address: Sur at 6 Calle Oriente 2, Antigua, GT 03001
This is the day that I see if I made the right decision in switching Spanish schools. After I made my breakfast, I took the looooonnnngggg walk…across the street… Literally, my kitchen window looks directly at my new school’s door. Yes, as I ate my microwave omelet, I was thinking that this was a sign. An omen. Maybe I was supposed to be at Antiguena Spanish School from the very beginning.
Nervously, I rang the bell and I was greeted by four or five people (teachers, I suppose) and then ushered into the director’s office. After I signed some papers and paid my weekly tuition, I was introduced to my new teacher Patricia.
Patricia was a bit older than my former teacher and as we got started on our lessons, I felt that she was much more experienced. I was confident in my interactions with her and she was very complementary with all of my responses. As the day closed, I felt very good about my lessons, yet was it too early to feel like I had made the right decision? I had also felt very good about my other teacher on the first day… After I crossed the street and made my lunch, I made a plan for the rest of the afternoon. First, I headed over to a tour agency to inquire about a day trip to Tikal, then I stopped by the local clinic to see what day I could complete my COVID test for my return trip home.
Boring stuff completed, it was on to the fun stuff! Heading north, I walked a few blocks to the ruins of San Sebastián church. Only because we had passed near here on our way to Lake Atitlan was I aware that this church existed. It appeared to be much like the many other churches in the city and I took a couple of quick photographs.
Ruins of Iglesia de San SebastianRuins of Iglesia de San Sebastian
Next, I took a quick tour of the Convent of Iglesia de Merced. Although, this church and ruins was a half a block away from my apartment and I had spent my breaks from school standing in front of the church, I had yet to make it inside this time while I was in Antigua.
Iglesia de La MercedIglesia de La Merced
It was wonderful to be back, but yes, I wish that the fountain which is the centerpiece of the property (and the largest in Central America), had been operating. I had also looked forward to seeing the spectacular views of the volcanoes in the distance, but as I made my way to the top level of the cloister, a light rain was starting to move in. The horizon was cloudy so the only view I had was of the surrounding homes and businesses. As I stood near the railing, spying on the Mercedarian’s beautiful courtyard, I spotted something familiar. Next door was the courtyard of my old school. Thank goodness no one was looking up because I’m not supposed to be in town! Don’t ask…
Convent of La MercedConvent of La MercedConvent of La MercedConvent of La MercedConvent of La MercedConvent of La MercedConvent of La Merced
Mercedarian Courtyard
Do Pedro de Alvarado Spanish SchoolCourtyardIglesia de La MercedIglesia de La MercedIglesia de La MercedIglesia de La Merced
Despite the rain, I headed over to one of my favorite landmarks, the Capuchin Convent. I was banking on the rain stopping and I won that bet. Not long after I arrived, the skies cleared and I was able to enjoy the cloister and grounds of this amazing property. It’s no wonder that people choose this location for wedding and quinceanera photos as well the actual weddings themselves.
Something I had been noticing at many of the ruins really bothered me…people carving their names into the ancient walls….Jacky y Berna, D y G…a lot of these names were surrounded by hearts suggesting that young lovers had visited together and wanted to record their dying affection. Well, I discovered something else today. Locals can visit the ruins for a modest sum…about 25 cents compared to my entrance fee, as a foreigner, of about $5.00. As most families have multiple generations living under the same roof, this doesn’t offer young people much privacy. Guess where the young lovers go to spend time together? Apparently, the Capuchin Convent is a popular place with its many dark former nun’s cells. Yes, I walked in on not just one couple, but a few!
On my way home tonight, I was thinking about all of the wonderful restaurants in the city. There was a bar and grill that I walked by every day as it was only three doors down from my apartment. Appearances are always very deceiving in Antigua with storefronts hiding what’s really deep inside…beautiful courtyards and interiors. As I walked by this particular restaurant, I was realizing that I had to figure out what I was going to do for dinner. On a whim and drawn in by the amazing Latin music, I decided to have a seat and dinner. I was craving a burger and when the waitress took my order she asked if I wanted two!
Am I so fat that I look like I can eat so much?
It was actually “two-for-one” night and she offered to package one of the burgers up for me to take home. I wasn’t really expecting much but when my plate arrived, I was greeted by the largest burger I have ever seen! And not only was it big, but it was muy delicioso!!! The best part was that for two gigantic burgers, fries and three beers, my bill came to a whopping $15.00.
I’d say that was a good way to end the day! New day, new teacher, new favorite restaurant!
What I learned: Be mindful when entering darkened rooms at the landmarks of Antigua!
Photo of the day: Convento Capuchinas
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Rates: $ 110 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200. $ 135 one-week classes, 5 hours, 5 days from 0800-1300. $ 165 one-week classes, 6 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200 and 1400-1600 or 1600-1800. $ 175 one-week for both (not each), if you and a friend shared a teacher 4 hours, 5 days. $90 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days, 1300-1700.
Antigua Parroquia San Sebastian (ruins)
Address: H777+P9 Antigua, Guatelmala on Plazuela San Sebastian
So…I edited pictures, checked Facebook, studied Spanish (of course), cooked a big breakfast (that I ate in bed), watched television and listened to the neighbor’s (very loud) conversations…
Finally, I just got up and dressed for the day. The sun was shining and the sky a brilliant blue…so perfect, in fact, that it was the first day I was able to wear shorts. As I walked out of my apartment, I ran into a young man that I had met while touring my new school’s facilities. He was from Brighton, England and he was very impressed that I actually knew where his hometown was located. I was disappointed to find that he had decided to go with another school, but as I had learned, everyone has to find the right fit! Jack and I parted ways and I headed to the restaurant that I had had lunch on my first day, El Troccoli…their caprese panini was calling my name!
From my vantage point at the table near the window, I marveled at how alive the streets were. People were everywhere! It was obvious, even more so, when I made it down to the Plaza Mayor and from the traffic, that visitors descend on the city during the weekends in droves!
There was a church that I did not have the opportunity to visit two years ago. The Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen. It’s in the southwestern part of the city and gave me the opportunity for some exercise.
Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen
The church sits in a small park and although I found it to be closed, I was still impressed with its architectural elements on the church’s and chapel’s facades. A couple of blocks away, I stumbled upon Iglesia Escuela de Cristo. Standing in the park across the street, I watched the patrons exit after mass. Noting that I was wearing shorts, I didn’t feel comfortable entering boldly. I hung near the doors and tried to slide in unnoticed, but one of the ushers took his place a few feet away, saying “Adios” to everyone. Finally, I gathered the courage to ask him to if it were okay to take one photo…thank goodness he said yes! I later learned that there is a beautiful convent is on the premises (not open to the public) and this is the church where the wake was held for the Hermano Pedro, Central America’s only saint. For those familiar with Antigua’s architecture, it should look familiar as it was designed by architect Diego de Porres, who designed the Fountain of the Sirens in the Plaza Mayor and other buildings throughout the city.
Iglesia Escuela de Cristo Iglesia Escuela de Cristo
My next stop was the Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande. We had visited this beautiful church during our last trip and we loved that there are many food and craft vendors within the church grounds. Although the church was closed, I was able to visit the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro and then made an interesting discovery. What we had missed during our first visit because of the massive crowds on the premises for Semana Santa, was the Museo de Santo Hermano Pedro and ruins. The museum was extremely interesting as were the grounds and ruins. I know that most people might think that the ruins within the city appear to be similar, but I love investigating the uniqueness of each.
Sanctuario San Francisco el GrandeThe Museum of Santo Hermano Pedro at Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el GrandeThe Tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro
Continuing my explorations of the city, I headed in the direction of the Museum of Semana Santa. Wouldn’t you know it’s open one day a month and that day had just passed?
Museo Semana Santa
I decided then to make my way toward Casa Santo Domingo passing the ruins of Iglesia de la Concepcion. Near the city’s entrance, I came upon a granizadas cart. Most people would be afraid to eat or drink things from the street in another country, but it sounded so good at the moment as I was sweating profusely, I decided to get one of the icy treats. Almost like a snow cone, the granizada was topped with pineapple and la lechera, sweetened condensed milk. It was extremely refreshing and after sitting on a bench in the shade, I was ready to go to my next stop.
The Ruins of Iglesia de la Concepcion
Casa Santa Domingo is a hotel in Antigua, but it also contains a couple of museums and ancient ruins. It was a good thing I was there during that time of day and in the museums because the skies opened up and gave the city a good washing!
Casa Santo Domingo HotelCasa Santo Domingo HotelCasa Santo Domingo HotelMuseum of Santo Domingo The Ruins of Santo DomingoThe Ruins of Santo DomingoThe Church of Santo DomingoThe Crypt of Santo DomingoThe Crypt of Santo DomingoMuseum of Santo Domingo Museum of Santo Domingo Museum of Santo Domingo Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
Finally, with aching feet, I was hobbling back to my apartment when I came upon the Plaza Mayor, once again. The park was still bustling and I decided that I might have the strength in me for one more landmark. The 16th century Antigua Guatemala Cathedral. These ruins and church hold a special place in my heart as it was the first thing that my son and I encountered when we arrived two years ago. It was the end of the day and there weren’t many people inside of the cathedral ruins, so I was able to get some beautiful photographs and then say a prayer inside the church.
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
I then decided that I had seen so much more that I had planned for the day and it was definitely time to take an Aleve, have dinner and put my feet up.
I was here for school, first and foremost, but how can you not want to see everything that this beautiful colonial city is known for?
What I learned: Wear good shoes when traversing the city!
Photo of the day: Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins
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Figuring out how to cook scrambled eggs in the microwave saved me about twenty minutes this morning. Why have I never figured this out before?
Because of my discovery, I was actually able to leisurely walk to school this morning. I must admit, I wasn’t eager to begin my day in the classroom. I felt a bit frustrated even with the studying I had done the night before. But I was here to learn and I was going to try my hardest!
The school day began very well and I had some “Aha!” moments when I understood some forms of the verbs I was studying. I felt like I was finally getting somewhere! After my break, I returned to the table with my teacher. Like yesterday, I felt like we lost a bit of steam. On this day, I think she misinterpreted some things I told her and I began to feel like she was getting frustrated with me which, in turn, was making me frustrated. Next thing you know, she had me playing Scrabble in Spanish. Now, I suck at Scrabble in English and I pulled some bad tiles. I couldn’t even make words in English, much less in Spanish and she made me play for an hour until class was finished. Enough said.
Maybe this wasn’t the best fit after all. She was a lovely person and I enjoyed our interactions, but I was distracted by the other student and I noticed that she was spending a lot of time listening to his lesson.
During lunchtime in my apartment, I glanced out of my window at the door across the street.
Academia de Antiguena. This had been my second choice of schools. Putting aside my quesadillas, I walked over and rang the bell. Speaking with the director, I explained my situation, was given a tour of both facilities and offered one of only two spots available for the following week.
Maybe I made the right decision…maybe not, but school is even closer, it’s a lot cheaper and has better facilities. I think that all of those are positives.
Once that was done, it was time to get my culture of the day. One of my favorite places I visited a couple of years ago was the Convento de Recoleccion. This convent and basilica were destroyed during the earthquake of 1773. The ceiling of the Basilica collapsed into the church, leaving the walls standing. Visitors are allowed to enter the remains of the basilica and make their way around the giant, boulder-like remains. It makes for some amazing photos! Connected to the basilica is the remains of the convent. It contains a few open courtyards flanked by many rooms. With not so many visitors in the city, I had the place to myself…what a peaceful afternoon!
What I learned today: Volcano Fuego is erupting nearby and there was an earthquake last Sunday. Sometimes the universe wants you to “shake it up”.
Photo of the day: Convento de Recoleccion
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Convento de Recoleccion
Address: 1a Calle Poniente and Avenida de la Recoleccion
Today I woke up eager to return to my classes and show off my stuff! I was feeling pretty good about yesterday!
I guess the day had other plans for me. First of all, my stove top wouldn’t heat up my pan and it took me about 20 minutes to cook my eggs, causing me to have to run to school, sans mask, getting a few dirty looks and making me arrive about a minute late. One minute late doesn’t sound so bad to most people but the flight attendant in me was freaking out…this “plane” was late and I hate making anyone wait.
My lessons began and I started out telling Heydi about my day yesterday. I was able to describe in Spanish, in pretty good detail about my trip to San Jeronimo, the supermarket, what I bought and what I had for dinner as well as what I watched on Netflix.
After this, she insisted on trying to teach me some verbs I didn’t know. The nerve! These verbs had very different endings and I was so confused. This led me to continually make simple mistakes…mistakes on things I actually knew which was completely frustrating!
She gave me homework and told me that I really need to study. Of course, I knew that I was going to have to study, but I just felt very degraded after class. I returned to my Airbnb, made some mini quesadillas and eyed my cerveza…in that moment I felt like I really could use a beer! Later. There were things to see in the city!
The sun was out and it was warmer than usual, so I decided that I needed a little field trip and some exercise. Walking toward the north of the city, I began the climb to the top of Cerro de la Cruz, the hill that overlooks the city and sports a large cross. A few hundred steps later, I was sitting on the wall, gazing over the city and praying that the clouds would part a little more so that I could see the top of the Volcan de Agua, the volcano that towers over the area.
Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz
While gazing over the city, I had spotted the ruins of the convent, Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus and decided that this would be my next destination. As I headed down the hill, I first stopped at the remains of the Church of Candelaria, captured a few photos and then walked to the convent. It had been one of the first ruins that my son, Ian, and I had visited two years ago and we had enjoyed its beautiful cloister and fountain. I spent some time meandering through its many rooms and was just about to leave when the gentleman who sold me my ticket asked me a question (in Spanish).
The ruins of the Church of Candelaria
Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus
“Did you see the crypt and the basilica?”
Um, no.
He showed me on the map, adjacent to the door, the layout of the building and pointing to a set of stairs in a room, that I had not entered as I thought it to be a storage room.
I followed his directions and amazingly, there was a set of steps leading down into a room which also led to the ruins of the basilica. In the far corner, there was also a set of stairs leading to the old crypt.
There was nothing much in the crypt, but as I headed back up and into the basilica, I was simply amazed. Not just because you could still see much of the workmanship being restored, but because it is baffling that visitors are allowed in this area of construction…scaffolding, tools, bags of cement and goodness knows what else filled the space. In the United States, this would have been condemned and no one allowed near, much less in the building. Despite the mess, it was wonderful to see this space up close, as I had only spied it from the street, behind the gate.
Thanking the gentleman, we exchanged pleasantries (in Spanish, of course) and I explained that I was in Antigua for Spanish school. He asked how long I had been there and I said it was my second day. He told me I was very smart for learning that much in just two days! Lol! I got a good laugh out of that but I went on letting him believe I was muy inteligente!
Continuing my explorations, I admired the architecture of the area and the unique doors and doorknockers and then headed over to the El Carmen market, pausing to snap a few photos of the ruins of El Carmen church next door.
Ruins of El Carmen Catholic ChurchRuins of El Carmen Catholic Church
I had vowed not to buy anything early in my trip, but next thing you know I was walking out with a table runner. Okay, I am a bit of a sucker sometimes…it was Father’s Day in Guatemala, after all, and he hadn’t had a sale all day!
Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen
As I exited the market, I heard a large boom! Praying it wasn’t one of the nearby volcanoes, I realized that I was feeling a few raindrops!
Time to go home.
What do you do when it’s pouring outside?
Have happy hour!
That was a good ending to the day that didn’t start so well!
What I learned: There are many hidden treasures in Guatemala, you just have to talk to the right person, in the right language, to find them!
Photo of the day: The Cloister of Convento Santa Teresa de Jesus
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Cerro de La Cruz
Address: Al final de la 1ª Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala 03001
Hours: 0700-1800, daily
Admission: free
Convento Santa Teresa De Jesus
Address: 1era calle Oriente y 4a Avenida sur. Antigua Guatemala
