Lima – Snapping The Globe

Flying South

South America…here we come!

Packing up that manila folder filled with many hours of research, bookings, reservations, tickets and general information was so final. If it wasn’t in the folder, chances were that it wasn’t going to happen.

So, unlike many other trips I have taken in the past, where I had a general plan but booked on the fly, this one had specific items that had to be booked in advance. With my husband in tow, I have to admit, I was a bit nervous about his having a good time and things working out as they should.

More than anything, I wanted my husband to enjoy the things that I have previously experienced in Lima and experience new things together in Cusco and Machu Picchu.

After a quick six hours in the air, we were touching down in Lima and making our way through customs and immigration. Arriving at our hotel, we were pleased to find that we had been upgraded to a beautiful suite and despite the late hour, we still had time to grab a nightcap at the hotel bar.

So far, so good!

After a hearty breakfast the next morning, we headed out to explore the Historic Center of Lima.

San Francisco Monastery was first on our agenda. Having visited this UNESCO World Heritage site on my first visit to Lima (read about it in my post Lovely Lima), I was eager for my husband to experience its refined beauty and history. Only having to wait a short time for the next English tour, we were taken through the alluring structure which also contains a library and catacombs.

After a short walk around the Plaza Mayor…and a few selfies…we headed to the Cathedral Basilica of Lima (read about my first visit in my post Cathedral of Lima). Officially inaugurated by conquistador Francisco Pizzaro who is also entombed in the cathedral, the church incorporates a small ossuary and the Religious Art Museum of the Cathedral of Lima. Every single one of the fourteen individual chapels is worth inspection, as each seems to be more ornate and more elaborate than the other.

After a walk through some of the small markets and a glimpse at the Presidential Palace, we jumped back into a cab and headed back toward Miraflores. Traffic of course, was at its usual, almost standstill. Heading down Avenue Arequipa, we made a quick decision to stop our driver near a street heading to Huaca Pucllana (read about my first visit on my post A Peruvian Pyramid), a great adobe and clay pyramid which served as an important ceremonial and administrative center between the years of 200 and 700 AD. Luckily, an English tour was about to commence and were able to follow along, learning about the historic structure.

Finally, we headed back toward Parque Kennedy in the center of Miraflores. Walking through the park, I pointed out the Church of the Miraculous Virgin (read about my first visit in my post The Colonial Church) and City Hall. Guiding my husband toward a store, La Quinta, with tables piled high with clothing, he inquired as to whether he was going to get some of the churros that I always talk about. Yes, but first a little shopping expedition (read more about it in my blog post Shop Til You Drop)!

Not only did my husband find a great many shirts of the popular brand that he loves here at a fabulous discount, but he even went back after churros for a few more!

Eager to rest our feet and relax for a while, we found a great little restaurant with amazing Peruvian cerviche. A couple of beer later, the toll of our adventurous day was catching up. Knowing we had a full day ahead of us, it was time to enjoy our suite for a few more hours and get some shut eye.

Cusco was calling!

So, we were up early the next morning and heading even further south into Peru. Though is was an arduous task getting to the airport, even with easy Saturday traffic, the check-in process with LC Peru was quite simple and before lunchtime, we had already checked into our hotel in Cusco.

Headed down the hill behind our hotel, we soon got our first glimpses of Cusco’s main areas, the San Francisco Plaza and the beautiful Plaza de Armas flanked on the east and south by the alluring Cusco Cathedral and the Iglesia De La Compañia De Jesús and on the north and west by restaurants and shops.

The streets were busy with residents going about their Saturday business and we joined in with the errands we had to attend to. Though we enjoyed walking along the streets of Cusco and admiring the impressive colonial architecture, open spaces and occasional street art, we were seeking out the ticket office to purchase our bus tickets for Machu Picchu prior to heading to Aguas Calientes. Not realizing that we were required to bring our passports for purchase, the agent agreed to use our driver’s licenses and pictures of our passports that we both had in our phones.

Finally, with tickets in hand, we set out to accomplish the last of our tasks of the day, collecting our tickets for our Sacred Valley tour the next morning. This tour had been set up for us by a friend of a friend. As we found the office, met the agent and paid for the tour tickets, we were instructed on our pick up time in the morning and what our day would entail…lots of stops, beautiful ruins, interaction with the local people and lunch. Very excited about to hear what our upcoming day, we bid our travel agent goodbye and continued our explorations of the Plaza de Armas, culminating with a scrumptious, Peruvian dinner.

Now, I am adventurous eater, but my husband is not. There are two things that I wanted to try in Peru and alpaca was one of them. After deciding on one of the many restaurants in the square, we found a nice, little place, overlooking the beautiful plaza and ordered this unique entree. Believe it or not, my husband decided to join me on my quest to try something new! Though we found it not to be as tasty as we thought, we were glad we had a new experience under our belt. One of many to come in the next few days!

After much planning and travel, it was time! Our Machu Picchu adventure was just beginning!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

San Francisco Monastery

http://museocatacumbas.com/
Address: Jirón Lampa, Cercado de Lima 15001, Peru
Hours: 0900-2015, daily
Admission: Adults, S / 15.00 (about $4.46 US), Students, S / 8.00 (about $2.38 US), Children, S / 3.00 (about $0.89 US)

Cathedral Basilica of Lima

https://arzobispadodelima.org/
Address: Jirón Carabaya, Cercado de Lima 15001, Peru
Hours: 0900-1700, Monday-Friday, 0900-1200, Saturday, 1300-1700, Sunday
Admission: General, S / 10.00 (about $3.00 US)

Huaca Pucllana

http://huacapucllanamiraflores.pe/
Address: cuadra S/n, Calle General Borgoño 8, Miraflores, Peru
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Adults, S / 12.00 (about $3.57 US), Children Under 12, Students and Teachers, S / 6.00 (about $1.79 US)

LC Peru

http://www.lcperu.pe/

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Consettur Machupicchu S.A.C.

Address: Av. Infancia, 433, Wanchaq, Cusco
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0800-1245, 1500-1800, Sunday, 0800-1245
Ticket Prices: Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single. Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only. Passports or national ID required for purchase.

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Inter Bank

Address: Av. El Sol, 380, Cusco
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0900-1300, 1400-1800, Saturday, 0900-1300
Ticket Prices: Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single. Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only. Passports or national ID required for purchase.

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Aguas Calientes (Bus Stop)

Address: Av. Hermanos Ayar S/N
Hours: Monday-Sunday, 0500-2100
Ticket Prices: Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single. Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only. Passports or national ID required for purchase.

Machu Picchu Bus Tickets-Machu Picchu

Address: Bus Stop
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0730-1730
Ticket Prices: Foreign Adult, S /24.00 return, Foreign Adult, S /12.00 single, Foreign Child, S /12.00 return, Foreign Child, S /7.00 single. Adult National, S /15.00 return, Adult National, S /8.00 single, Child National, S /8.00 return, Child National, S /5.00 single. Student National, S /10.00 return, Student National, S /6.00 single.
Tickets can be purchased up to 7 days in advance, valid for 3 days but for 1 use only. Passports or national ID required for purchase.

So You Want To Go To Machu Picchu?

For the past few years, I have enviously swiped through my friend’s Facebook posts about their sojourns to Machu Picchu. Spying them perched on the mountainside with the picturesque citadel spread out below them…and the occasional llama or two…I envisioned myself there one day.

The destination has been on my bucket list for some time, yet I hadn’t quite made it a priority…the planning, alone, seemed extremely overwhelming!

And it was.

Sure, you can call up a tour company and have it all done for you. Thing was, I wasn’t interested in doing one of the multi-day Inca trail treks that many people envision to be the sole way to navigate their way to the 15th century citadel. Mainly, I think I am smart enough to realize that:

a) I am not 25 anymore.

b) I had a back injury last year.

c) Who knows how I will react to the altitude once I am there.

d) There are easier ways to reach the destination that do not involve not having a shower for four days.

After reading up on many ways to experience the country and the journey, I decided, “I can do this on my own.”

Well…the planning anyway…my husband was coming along!

Making a list, I prioritized what needed to be done and there were SO MANY options! I was, indeed, overwhelmed and didn’t know where to start. Finally, approaching the task with the mindset of booking things in the order that made the most sense, I created a folder…no, not on my computer…the old fashioned way.

I grabbed a manila folder and wrote Machu Picchu on the front.

Now I had a place where, I could place printed confirmations, tickets and additional information. Believe me, this worked best as later in the trip, I would have to pull out many of the hard-copies for various reasons.

After choosing our total length of stay and booking our flight to Lima, we had some important decisions to make.

With a flight arriving at almost midnight, should we hang out in the airport for a few hours and catch the one of the first flights to Cusco the next morning? Spend time in Lima on the way home? Spend the first two nights in Lima, with sightseeing and then head to Cusco? No time in Lima?

After going back and forth, I decided that my husband needed to see some sights in Lima and of course, have some of the famous churros at Manolo’s.

Booking two nights in Lima was first on the list. Having been to Lima before, I knew that we wanted to stay in the Miraflores area. My husband is also a status member of a major hotel chain, so that choice was easy.

Next, came the booking of our Cusco flight. There are quite a few airlines that fly from Lima to Peru and not having any inside information on any of them, I decided that price and time of day would be the deciding factors.

LATAM? Avianca? Star Peru? Peruvian? LC Peru? Viva Air Peru?

Having finally decided on Star Peru, it was disheartening to discover difficult that their booking sight would not charge my credit card. I am not sure if it was user error or the fact that I was trying to book from outside of the country, but I had to figure out another option…Kayak showed me many options and although the price was slightly higher, I was able to book LC Peru. After spending a day in Lima, we would leave fairly early for the short, one hour flight to Cusco. Arriving mid-morning, we just hoped that our hotel would allow for an early check-in. Additionally, our flight from Lima, back to the states, was around the midnight hour, so we decided on a flight from Cusco later in the afternoon, allowing us to sleep in, ask for a later check-out and grab some lunch before heading to the airport.

Our next major decision was how to split up the time in Cusco upon our arrival. What should we see and do? When should we head to Machu Picchu?

Scheduled to arrive in Cusco on Saturday morning, we decided to see a bit of the city that afternoon and possibly the next, allowing for acclimatization. We were anxious to get to Machu Picchu, but didn’t want to rush the process.

After some debate on whether or not to book a tour to the Sacred Valley which incorporated travel to Machu Picchu and back, I decided that I wanted to experience everything on my own time. This option required a full day of sightseeing, arriving in Aguas Calientes at night and having to rise early the next morning. Though one of my friends described the small gateway city to Machu Picchu as a “dump” and “an armpit”, I was convinced that it offered some charm and I wanted ample time to see it.

Deciding that we would see the Sacred Valley on Sunday, travel to Aguas Calientes on Monday and visit Machu Picchu on Tuesday, I now had to make sure that this timeline was possible.

Since capacity restrictions dictate whether or not I could purchase tickets to Machu Picchu, checking the Ministry of Culture website for availability was my first order of business. I had heard that the website was a bit confusing, but I had no problems, other than deciding if we wanted to climb Huayna Picchu. After following the directions offered, our tickets for the morning entrance were secured and printed.

Second order of business…getting to Aguas Calientes. The Peru Rail website was pretty straightforward and we decided that we would travel from Cusco Poroy station to Aguas Calientes, instead of from Ollantaytambo, which required a lengthy taxi or bus ride. Pricing wasn’t much different and we would leave early, arriving around 11:00 am. After selecting our options, the website made a reservation and charged my credit card, however, it did not generate tickets. I knew something was off but not sure what the problem was. After two phone calls to Peru, I finally found someone at Peru Rail who could help. Six hours later, many emails back and forth, plus the submittal of information requested, we finally had tickets. A refund for the first charges was processed about a week later.

Next, we needed a hotel room in Aguas Calientes. There are many options from hostels to high-end spas. After perusing different choices on Agoda, I decided that with so little time at the hotel, it was not prudent to spend a great deal for one night. Deciding on a mid-grade room, this was booked and paid for.

With our plans for Machu Picchu now in place, we were able to make hotel reservations for Cusco. Choosing my husband’s preferred hotel chain, we booked two nights in Cusco and then another three for after our return from Machu Picchu.

Finally, the Sacred Valley beckoned. There are many options for organized tours to this amazing area available on the internet. Reaching out to a friend who had just been in Cusco, for advice, she put me in touch with a local contact. He, in turn, reached out to people he knew and found a tour that visited the sites we most wanted to see, Chincherra, Maras, Moray, Ollantaytambo and Pisac and lunch in Urubamba. The price, at first, seemed much cheaper than what I was seeing in my research and I was a little hesitant. What I learned, however, was that we had to pay for entrance to the sights once we arrived in Chincherra, making it about the same price in the end. When all was said and done, however, if I had to book this tour again, the first thing I would inquire about is how many other passengers are on the trip, something I usually do but failed this time.

So, the only things left on the booking agenda was how to fill our two remaining days in Cusco, once we returned from Machu Picchu. There were many tours on the internet and my friend let me know that many options were available throughout the city and in the Plaza de Armas. We decided that we would wait and see what we found once we arrived. We would also purchase our tickets for our bus ride to Machu Picchu once we arrived in Cusco, since they are only valid for three days after purchase. This would allow us to avoid the long lines that sometimes form in Aquas Calientes.

Now, the only things left to do was confirm our flights closer to our departure date and figure out what to wear.

Figuring out what to pack was much tougher than I expected and I spent many days, shopping and then returning items that I ultimately decided were not what the trip required. The weather seemed to change on a dime and everyone uttered those words I hate, “bring layers”. The weather forecast even gave the type of temperatures that I hate, “60s”! 60 in the sun, can be totally different than 60 in the shade!

Eventually, I decided on three pairs of quick-drying pants (so I could wash them in the room, if needed), a pair of jeans that I would wear on the plane and for dinner, one pair of exercise-type leggings, two flannel shirts, a couple of nicer blouses for dinner, a few quick-drying shirts and a short sleeve shirt. To top it all, I did indeed, bring layers. A Columbia zip-up fleece, a lighter weight jacket (that could be combined with the fleece), a Columbia rain jacket and my ScottEVest to carry many items securely and without taking up space in my carry on. I purchased inexpensive socks from a dollar store that I could leave behind. My shoe collection consisted of three pairs…a thick soled pair of “nicer” boots (good for walking on cobblestones), hiking boots and tennis shoes. A scarf, dollar store gloves, hat, bathing suit and sunglasses completed my list.

Besides our clothing, the other most important ingredient in our bags was acetazolamide. Having consulted our physicians long before our trip, we received prescriptions for the drug designed to combat altitude sickness. With an altitude of just over 11,000 feet, visits to Cusco are known to induce headaches, nausea and shortness of breath for those unaccustomed to the high elevation. Since neither of us had ever been to elevations this great, we were unsure how our bodies would react and wanted to be prepared.

Trying to figure out what to put everything in was also a bit confusing. Smaller airlines, usually restrict the size of luggage and what can be brought on board. Last year, I brought an Ebags backpack and a Longchamp carry-on to Africa, though I must admit, that was a bit hard on my back. Thinking about taking a train and having to take luggage was a factor when deciding how to pack. Finally, I opted to my Ebags rollerboard and a backpack. I also brought a foldable daypack. After reading up on the subject, I found that Peru Rail prefers smaller, carry-on sized luggage. Checking with our hotels in Cusco and in Aguas Calientes, I found that we could leave our luggage checked while at Machu Picchu. The most important factor at this point was not bringing many valuables and having good locks for our bags.

Though it took a great deal of effort and time, I finally could sit back and feel comfortable in knowing that everything was ready for our trip. It was finally time…time for me to head to Machu Picchu and get my shot with the citadel…and a llama or two…spread out beneath me!

For more pictures about Machu Picchu and other cities, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Colonial Church

When visiting Peru, there are no shortages of churches in the predominately Catholic country. Some are extremely ornate, others merely plain and simply a place for the devout to bow their heads and pray.

While visiting the Miraflores area of Lima, you can’t help but spot the church of the Virgen of Milagrosa standing proudly in the Central Park of Miraflores, adjacent to Parque Kennedy, especially at night, when lit beautifully.

Built in the last century by architect Ricardo de Jaxa Malachowski, it stands on the site of an older church, San Miguel de Miraflores. Though the beauty of its grand colonial exterior clearly outshines the interior, the interesting stained glass detailing the scenes of life and miracles of Jesus and the image of the Miraculous Virgin, from which its name is derived, on the altar are worth stopping in to pay a visit.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Iglesia Virgen Milagrosa

Address: Lima 345, Distrito de Lima Lima 18, Peru
Admission: free
Mass Schedule: Monday thru Friday, 0900, 1900, Saturday, 1200, 1800, 1900 and Sunday, 0700, 0930 (mass for parents and children), 1100, 1200, 1800, 1900 and 2000. Confession, Monday thru Friday, 1900 and after Sunday masses.

A Peruvian Pyramid

Lima, Peru is an animated city filled with compelling history, amicable people, considerable bargains and mouthwatering cuisine. So vast are the options in this city, its hard to fathom how to narrow down the list to fill your day!

Just recently, I was returning to Lima for my second visit. Arriving late in the evening, I made time to enjoy a Pisco Sour, the Peruvian cocktail that the country is known for, before retiring for a quick night’s rest.

No sooner than I had shut my eyes, my alarm was going off, reminding me that it was time to hit the breakfast buffet and the busy streets. Having some shopping to complete and a pedicure to enjoy, was first and foremost on my mind, but there was something else I wanted to seek out.

A pyramid.

Both times that I have planned for my visits to Lima, I have done internet searches for things to do in the vibrant city. The usual items have always popped up… Plaza Mayor, the Larco Museum, San Francisco Monastery and Catacombs, Parque Kennedy. This time, however, I found something different…two pyramids…Huaca Pucllana and Huaca Huallamarca. Not only were these pyramids located in the city, but one was in the area of Miraflores, my base of operations during my stay and the other quite near.

After my shopping was complete, I secured a map from the concierge as well as some helpful directions. Since Huaca Pucllana was closer to my hotel, I decided to seek it out on this trip. Heading up Avenida Arequipa and enjoying the colorful and distinct architecture as I walked, I quickly found my turning point, Calle Tarapacá. A short walk and a right turn, the ticket window was there before me.

It was explained, as I purchased my ticket, that the next English tour would be leaving in thirty minutes. Gladly, I took the time to take pictures, re-hydrate and relax my feet from the brisk walk I had just endured.

As the tour guide assembled our group at the entrance, we all stared up at the great adobe and clay monolith to our left. A massive structure, it is truly amazing that it has not succumbed to the development of the city which surrounds it on all sides.

One of the most important ancient monuments in Lima, Huaca Pucllana, currently an historical and cultural park, was found to have served as a ceremonial and administrative center. It was ruled by a group of priests that politically governed the area as well as the valleys of Chancay, Chillón, Rimac and Lurín and was constructed around 500 A.D.

Guided around the plaza that surrounds the pyramid, we were briefed on the history of the pyramid and the Lima people who resided in this area and gazed upon the displays designed to give tourists a representation of life when the pyramid was built. Separated by a large structured wall dividing it into two separate sections, one side was an area of offering and for religious ceremonies and another served as an administrative area.

As you make your way through the outer part of the complex, you will notice the intricacies of the adobe brick walls that are still in amazing shape and give you an idea of how the complex was divided. When the project was begun in 1981, the entire pyramid and surrounded area was covered with dirt. Excavation of the site has exposed about two thirds of the slopes and the upper part of the main building. Many clay structures and adobe huts still remain as well as a preserved footprint of one of the inhabitants.

At the rear of the complex, an area has been set aside which offers a representation of the crops that the Lima people grew at the time as well as the animals that were kept.

Facing the front of the main pyramid is impressive…here, you can see the actual pyramidic shape which was built from seven staggered platforms. Walking to the right, our guide led us to a ramp leading up to the top of the pyramid. A birds eye view of the entire Huaca Pucllana complex is presented before you, but if you are searching for impressive views of the city surrounding it, you will be sorely disappointed. Still, it is quite profound to be standing atop an ancient pyramid in Peru.

Our guide enlightened us with much information detailing the changes that Huaca Pucllana endured around the year 700. By the year, 800, the highest parts of the site became an elite cemetery of the Wari culture. Many tombs and burial bundles have been unearthed on this apogee, the most recent being in 2010, when the remains of an affluent woman were discovered along with four children, who were believed to be sacrificed to accompany her to the after-world. Open tombs can be inspected which contain various elements such as clothing, household items and ritual objects.

Finally, we made our way down the pyramid and back to our entry point, which was also our exit.

If you find yourself in Miraflores, make time to head to Huaca Pucllana, take a tour, wander through the adjacent museum and have a bit to eat at the restaurant which overlooks the ruins. The tour lasts approximately an hour and is an informative journey through an important time in Lima’s history. Be sure to bring water if you will be visiting during the hottest parts of the day and when you need to tend to your dusty feet after your visit, grab a pedicure at one of the many salons in Miraflores…that’s just what I did!

Check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe for more pictures.

Huaca Pucllana

http://huacapucllanamiraflores.pe/
Address: Calle General Borgoño cuadra 8 S/n, Distrito de Lima, Peru
Hours: Wednesday to Monday, 0900-1700, closed Tuesday. Closed January 1st, Good Friday, May 1st, July 28th, December 25th and National Election days.
Admission: Adults, 12.00 PEN (about $3.68 US), Reduced ticket (children up to 12 years of age, students of higher learning, teachers), 6.00 PEN (about $1.84 US), Schoolchildren, 1.00 PEN (about $.31 US).
Guides: All tours are guided
Night Service: Wednesday-Monday, 1900-2200. Adults, 15.00 PEN (about $4.60 US), Reduced ticket, 7.50 (about $2.30 US). For safety reasons, the night tour does not include a visit to the top of the Great Pyramid.

Shop Til You Drop

Finding amazing deals in Lima is an easy thing to do. From beautiful handicrafts to jewelry to clothing, there are plenty of stores and markets throughout the city to satisfy your shopping appetite.

The first time I went to Lima, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Tales circulated around my friends about their shopping expeditions and the things that they were used to bringing home. Knowing that many counterfeit items are sold, I wanted to stay away from these so that I would not experience any trouble when re-entering the United States.

Walking behind some passengers to the airplane, I was listening in on their conversation. Our was relating a story about being there the week before and at a store that had piles of a particular kind of expensive type of clothing that my boys like to wear for ridiculously low prices. Securing directions from him, I decided I had to check this out!

Walking up and down Avenue Jose Larco, I must have passed the store many times. Finally, after asking for directions in my broken Spanish, I finally realized exactly where the store was located.

Entering the store, I looked around and realized that with the piles of clothing everywhere, there was no way I was going to find what I was looking for. I suddenly understood why the passengers kept referring to this store as “The Dig”.

Whipping out my cellphone, I scrolled through my pictures and found some of the type of clothing I was looking for. Smiling, the lady took me over to a table with shirts stacked very neatly by size and style. Pulling as many different styles and sizes that I could, I walked away with a nice assortment (nineteen to be exact!) of t-shirts and polo-type shirts for both my boys and husband. Getting them back to my hotel room and into the suitcase was another feat but seeing how excited they were when I showed them my haul, it was worth the effort!

Just recently, I went back to Lima with the intention of re-visiting La Quinta. Hoping that the store still carried the same brand, I made sure that I had my credit card handy and held my breath as I entered.

At the same table, there were more styles and sizes than during my previous visit, though still neatly folded and separated by size and style. Sorting through each pile, the salesgirl, put them aside for me until I was finished with the t-shirts. Asking about the polo-type shirts, I was disheartened to find that the ones she had available were not quite what I was looking for, but instantly brightened when she showed me the three-quarter zip pullovers…a little more pricey, but worth the heavily discounted price.

These shirts are made for an American company in Peru and are irregular items that do not make the cut for excellent production standards. Checking each piece for marks, cuts and overall quality, I finally had her write my ticket so that I could go to the cashier’s stand to pay for the purchases. I all-but-dragged my bulging bag back to my hotel four blocks away!

Once in my room, I re-inspected each piece and discovered that I had two incorrect sizes. Back to the store I went, and exchanged the pieces for the correct sizes. Deciding to look around a bit more, I discovered another table selling another popular brand of t-shirts and with much excitement I discovered that, at the rear of the store, there was another seller with the polo-type shirts that I had been looking for earlier.

Paying for my purchases, I took my receipts to each of the sellers, collected my bags and once again made the trip back to my hotel to begin loading my suitcase.

Getting so many shirts into a suitcase already half full of my own clothes was certainly a challenge and I had to expand it to its largest size as well as borrow space in my tote and also unfold and use my Longchamps purse.

Having to check my suitcase for my flight back to Richmond and add extra time to my travels claiming my bag upon arrival was a bit of pain, especially after being up all night, but seeing the look of excitement on my family’s faces was priceless!

A whole new wardrobe for a fraction of the price..heck..I might have to go back each season!

For more pictures from my travels, always check Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

La Quinta

Address: Av. Larco , Miraflores – Lima – Perú
Getting There: Walk north on Av. Jose Larco from Calle Schell. Pass the next street Av. Ernesto Diez Canseco and La Quinta is on your left. Directly across the street from Parque Kennedy and the Parroquia Virgen Milagrosa.

Cathedral of Lima

The Cathedral of Lima, dedicated to St. John the Apostle and Evangelist, presides on the eastern side of the Plaza de Armas and is truly a magnificent work of art, a far cry from its modest beginnings.

It has been told that in January 18, 1535, the Spanish conquistador and founder of Lima, Francisco Pizarro placed the first stone, taken from an Inca temple located on this site, and carried over his shoulders the first log used in the construction of the Cathedral.

Over the years, many earthquakes have necessitated the repairs and reconstruction of the Cathedral, most notably the earthquakes of 1746 and 1940. Still retaining its colonial structure and facade, it is important to note when entering the structure, the three large doorways, which are in keeping with the majority of cathedrals. The main or central doorway is called the Portada del Perdon or the “door of forgiveness”. Above the doorways is the Peruvian seal and the phrase “Plus Ultra” rather than Lima’s coat of arms.

Carved in stone and ornamented with exquisite details and decorations, the front of the cathedral is flanked by the two high towers with spires of slate which were added around 1800.

After entering the cathedral and paying the entry fee of 10 sols, you are free to wander throughout the cathedral and the Religious Art Museum which is housed within the cathedral. A guided tour may be taken or one can self-guide through the Cathedral using the pamphlet dispersed with the ticket.

Due to the reparations stemming from the earthquakes, the interior is a sight to behold displaying a mix of late Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassic elements. Beautiful vaulted ceilings, checkerboard flooring, a gold plated main altar and intricately carved choir stalls are most notable, however, taking the time to inspect each of the fourteen chapels is highly recommended. A map is handed out to each guest, with your paid admission, detailing the side chapels. One of the chapels, opens on to Calle de Judios (Street of the Jews) and another on to the Patio de los Naranjos (Square of the Orange Trees), which is connected to the Cathedral.

The first chapel in the left aisle, holds the ancient baptistery. Ancient pictures found recently in this chapel, have been restored and are on display for the public. This chapel is followed by the Capilla de la Sagrada Familia (Chapel of the Holy Family) featuring figures of Jesus, Mary and Joseph. I highly recommend spending a few minutes admiring each chapel’s unique qualities.

As you make your way to rear of the Cathedral, you will find your way to the Religious Art Museum within the old sacristy. The museum displays a large collection of historical objects including painting, sculptures, furniture, jewelry, sacred vessels and religious vestments and robes of former archbishops.

Also at the rear of the Cathedral is a large crypt. Many remains can be seen here, including a display of skulls in a glass-fronted niche. Another oddity, a glass case situated in the floor, contains about a dozen or so extremely small coffins.

The tomb of Francisco Pizarro also is housed within the Cathedral as you walk in on the right hand side. A most interesting story, the mummified remains of the conquistador were on display in a glass casket in the Cathedral of Lima for almost a century. The remains were visited by Catholic and Spanish pilgrims and studied by historians. Imagine the shock when in 1977, workers uncovered a casket engraved with the words, “Here is the skull of the Marquis Don Francisco Pizarro who discovered and won Peru and placed it under the crown of Castile.”

Another unique find within the Cathedral is a tea shop opened a couple of years ago. When visiting La Teteria, visitors can choose from a menu of teas and nutritious baked pastries and breads. While the tea shop is housed within the Cathedral, it can be visited independently by simply asking at the main doors of the church.

Although I found the San Francisco Church to be much more impressive and beautiful, I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Cathedral. For the history buff and the architecturally obsessed, it is a must-see on your trip to Lima.

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Cathedral of Lima

Address: Jirón Carabaya, Lima 15001, Peru
Admission: 10 sols (about $3) includes admission to cathedral and museum. Combination ticket of 30 sols (about $9) includes the Archbishops Palace and the Cathedral, including museum
Hours: Monday-Friday 9:00-17:00, Saturday, 10:00-13:00, Sunday, 13:00-17:00

Peruvian Past

One of the things I wanted most to experience while visiting the historic center of Lima was the San Francisco Church, one of the best preserved colonial churches in the city, which also houses a monastery, museum and catacombs.

Construction of the Spanish baroque-style church, which pays tribute to Saint Jude the Apostle, was begun in 1673, but was not completed until 1774. Having survived many earthquakes in its early years with little damage, a tremor in 1970 caused extensive destruction. The entire complex, consisting of the church, the monastery, museum and catacombs was listed in 1991 as part of the Historic Centre of Lima.

As your enter the gates and gaze upon the bright yellow facade of the church, you’ll be greeted by the swarms of pigeons in the courtyard as well as many vendors selling bags of seeds, which keeps the birds present, and other wares.

Having about thirty minutes before the next tour would begin for the catacombs and monastery, I decided to visit the church first. A very fascinating structure, I was most taken with the beautifully carved entrance and the colossal wooden doorway. Once inside, you cannot but be enthralled with the red and white intricately latticed dome, its ornately gilded side altars and the Spanish influence throughout. Most notable was the head altar which is fully carved out of wood.

After my visit was complete, a few steps out of the church through the courtyard brought me to the entrance of the Museum, Monastery and Catacombs. As tours begin on the hour, I only had a few minutes to wait before our guide greeted us and prepared us for our circuit. Her first instructions…something it seems that lately I have been hearing quite frequently…no photos! Ugh!

The first part of our visit brought us through the museum and monastery. A large collection of ancient religious texts, some brought over by the first wave of Spanish priests after the conquest of the Incas is exceptionally notable. While I was tempted to sneak a few pictures of the prominent library, filled with 25,000 texts, including the first Spanish dictionary and a Holy Bible from 1571, I noticed the surveillance cameras throughout the room as well as two workers intent on preserving ancient texts. As much as I would have loved to capture the beauty of this room, with my camera, it was not to be. Sadly, this amazing room would have to be remembered from a postcard purchased in the gift shop.

The monastery contains many religious works of art and you can also visit the choir stalls where you see the large choir songbooks displayed on floor stands. Before exiting the monastery, you will pass through a series of beautiful courtyards full of plants, walkways and private little nooks where the monks most assuredly passed their time meditating.

Before long, you are entering the maze of passageways which were actually part of Lima’s original cemeteries. An estimated 75,000 bodies are buried under San Francisco alone and many of the remains are exposed and stacked in strange patterns in circular stone pits. As you walk through the semicircular archways and vaulted ceilings, you can distinguish skulls, tibiae, femurs and fibulae of the bodies that were place here to decompose.

Many famous Peruvians from the colonial era were buried within the old church including the remains of Friar Juan Gomez, a 16th Century doctor and “miracle worker” who worked at the church hospital for 40 years. According to Franciscan chronicles, Friar Gomez saved the life of a man who fell off his horse by simply reciting three prayers for the man. The man, thought to be dead, rose to his feet and walked away as if he’d never fallen from the horse.

Having been through many catacombs in France and Italy, it was interesting to note the difference in how the bones were laid to rest and displayed. Since no surveillance cameras were noted, I was able to turn off my flash and snap a few photos of the macabre exhibit.

After the tour’s completion, we were allowed to make our way through the monastery and museum toward the exit. Again, a few photos were able to be taken quickly with no one noticing.

Thoroughly having enjoyed my visit to the San Francisco Church, Museum, Monastery and Catacombs, I highly recommend a visit to anyone in the historic city center of Lima. Take the time to absorb and appreciate each unique part of this significant landmark.

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Church, Museum and Catacombs of San Francisco

Address: Jirón Lampa y Ancash, Lima, Peru
Admission: Church, free admission
Admission: Museum and Catacombs, 10 sols (about $3)
Hours: Church, daily 7:00-11:00 and 16:00-20:00
Hours: Museum and Catacombs, daily 9:00-20:15