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Lima, Peru is an animated city filled with compelling history, amicable people, considerable bargains and mouthwatering cuisine. So vast are the options in this city, its hard to fathom how to narrow down the list to fill your day!
Just recently, I was returning to Lima for my second visit. Arriving late in the evening, I made time to enjoy a Pisco Sour, the Peruvian cocktail that the country is known for, before retiring for a quick night’s rest.
No sooner than I had shut my eyes, my alarm was going off, reminding me that it was time to hit the breakfast buffet and the busy streets. Having some shopping to complete and a pedicure to enjoy, was first and foremost on my mind, but there was something else I wanted to seek out.
A pyramid.
Both times that I have planned for my visits to Lima, I have done internet searches for things to do in the vibrant city. The usual items have always popped up… Plaza Mayor, the Larco Museum, San Francisco Monastery and Catacombs, Parque Kennedy. This time, however, I found something different…two pyramids…Huaca Pucllana and Huaca Huallamarca. Not only were these pyramids located in the city, but one was in the area of Miraflores, my base of operations during my stay and the other quite near.
After my shopping was complete, I secured a map from the concierge as well as some helpful directions. Since Huaca Pucllana was closer to my hotel, I decided to seek it out on this trip. Heading up Avenida Arequipa and enjoying the colorful and distinct architecture as I walked, I quickly found my turning point, Calle Tarapacá. A short walk and a right turn, the ticket window was there before me.
It was explained, as I purchased my ticket, that the next English tour would be leaving in thirty minutes. Gladly, I took the time to take pictures, re-hydrate and relax my feet from the brisk walk I had just endured.
As the tour guide assembled our group at the entrance, we all stared up at the great adobe and clay monolith to our left. A massive structure, it is truly amazing that it has not succumbed to the development of the city which surrounds it on all sides.
One of the most important ancient monuments in Lima, Huaca Pucllana, currently an historical and cultural park, was found to have served as a ceremonial and administrative center. It was ruled by a group of priests that politically governed the area as well as the valleys of Chancay, Chillón, Rimac and Lurín and was constructed around 500 A.D.
Guided around the plaza that surrounds the pyramid, we were briefed on the history of the pyramid and the Lima people who resided in this area and gazed upon the displays designed to give tourists a representation of life when the pyramid was built. Separated by a large structured wall dividing it into two separate sections, one side was an area of offering and for religious ceremonies and another served as an administrative area.
As you make your way through the outer part of the complex, you will notice the intricacies of the adobe brick walls that are still in amazing shape and give you an idea of how the complex was divided. When the project was begun in 1981, the entire pyramid and surrounded area was covered with dirt. Excavation of the site has exposed about two thirds of the slopes and the upper part of the main building. Many clay structures and adobe huts still remain as well as a preserved footprint of one of the inhabitants.
At the rear of the complex, an area has been set aside which offers a representation of the crops that the Lima people grew at the time as well as the animals that were kept.
Facing the front of the main pyramid is impressive…here, you can see the actual pyramidic shape which was built from seven staggered platforms. Walking to the right, our guide led us to a ramp leading up to the top of the pyramid. A birds eye view of the entire Huaca Pucllana complex is presented before you, but if you are searching for impressive views of the city surrounding it, you will be sorely disappointed. Still, it is quite profound to be standing atop an ancient pyramid in Peru.
Our guide enlightened us with much information detailing the changes that Huaca Pucllana endured around the year 700. By the year, 800, the highest parts of the site became an elite cemetery of the Wari culture. Many tombs and burial bundles have been unearthed on this apogee, the most recent being in 2010, when the remains of an affluent woman were discovered along with four children, who were believed to be sacrificed to accompany her to the after-world. Open tombs can be inspected which contain various elements such as clothing, household items and ritual objects.
Finally, we made our way down the pyramid and back to our entry point, which was also our exit.
If you find yourself in Miraflores, make time to head to Huaca Pucllana, take a tour, wander through the adjacent museum and have a bit to eat at the restaurant which overlooks the ruins. The tour lasts approximately an hour and is an informative journey through an important time in Lima’s history. Be sure to bring water if you will be visiting during the hottest parts of the day and when you need to tend to your dusty feet after your visit, grab a pedicure at one of the many salons in Miraflores…that’s just what I did!
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Huaca Pucllana
- http://huacapucllanamiraflores.pe/
- Address: Calle General Borgoño cuadra 8 S/n, Distrito de Lima, Peru
- Hours: Wednesday to Monday, 0900-1700, closed Tuesday. Closed January 1st, Good Friday, May 1st, July 28th, December 25th and National Election days.
- Admission: Adults, 12.00 PEN (about $3.68 US), Reduced ticket (children up to 12 years of age, students of higher learning, teachers), 6.00 PEN (about $1.84 US), Schoolchildren, 1.00 PEN (about $.31 US).
- Guides: All tours are guided
- Night Service: Wednesday-Monday, 1900-2200. Adults, 15.00 PEN (about $4.60 US), Reduced ticket, 7.50 (about $2.30 US). For safety reasons, the night tour does not include a visit to the top of the Great Pyramid.