The County Clink

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In an old town, one expects to find old things.

An old tree, An old jail. An old store.

As I ventured north on San Marco Avenue in St. Augustine, after viewing the Old Senator, my intention had been to quickly check out the old jail site before heading to the historic downtown. What I found, however, was an attraction called Old Town which encompasses the Old Jail, the Oldest Museum Store and the Old Town Trolley depot.

Sensing that this was going to be a longer than anticipated visit, I headed over to the ticket booth to purchase admission for the attractions. With tickets in hand, not only for the jail and the store, but for the St. Augustine History Museum and the Old Town Trolley (for two days), I pondered what I would encounter.

Making my way to a marked area in front of the old jail building, I was intrigued by two “prisoners” who engaged those of us waiting. As they robbed us of information…where we were from…they also gave us an overview of what we could expect on our tour.

The Old Jail

Bringing us back to the year 1891, we were versed on Henry Flagler, the founder of the Florida East Coast Railway (which ironically was built through convict leasing), who had just opened the Ponce de Leon Hotel. Although he desired a secure place for the criminals of the city, it was important to him that this building not detract from the majestic atmosphere of the city. A jailhouse, designed by P.J. Pauley Jail Company who built Alcatraz, was designed to appear as a Victorian house from the outside…the inside was a different matter. This jail was built away from the downtown area and served the city until 1953.

At the rear of the building, we first encountered the gallows, the menacing site of the hangings of numerous violent criminals. Entering the jailhouse, we experienced both women’s and men’s cells as well as the maximum security area. The jailhouse also encompasses the sheriff’s office and living quarters…a little too close for comfort (to the inmates) in my opinion!

The Gallows

While it was interesting to see the interior of this beautiful structure, what made the tour special was our guide Bobalew. His exuberant tales of life behind bars as well the inmates’ stories were intriguing and he was wonderful in character, truly one of the most wonderful tour guides I have ever encountered! After the tour, we spoke and I learned that being a “convict” is his retirement job. I don’t know what he did before retirement, however, I think that Bobalew finally found his calling!

After taking a peek at the historic Mary Peck House, adjacent to the jail, I headed over to the St. Augustine History Museum. While not an extensive space, it is tightly packed with a great number of artifacts and declares St. Augustine’s long and rich history.

Finishing up in the adjoining gift shop, I perused the large number of city specific souvenirs. Walking out with a beer koozie and a hat, I crossed the courtyard and took a seat, waiting for the next tour of the Old Store Museum to begin.

While I don’t normally like to be in the last tour group of the day, in this instance, the last tour was the one to aspire to. After greeting the wooden Indian at the door, the tour guide led me (and only me) through the old general store, staying in character and using her charm to sell me the goods that were once peddled here during its heydey…think coffee grinders, seeds, spices and fabrics. Dimly lit and filled to capacity, it was an excellent recreation where one can almost feel like they have been transported back to the turn of the century.

The Wiles Houses, dating back to 1899, were moved to Old Town from their current location in St. Augustine and connected. Though this was not the original general store, it is a recreation of what a general store looked like during the time and filled with a large collection of early American antiques salvaged from the Oldest Store attraction, once located on Artillery Street. While the front was filled with the most basic necessities, the rear building had a huge display of small machinery and had it not been the end of the day, I could have stayed and perused every nook and corner!

Finally, with attractions closing up for the day, I walked across the parking lot to the Hildreth House (1870) which houses The Spice and Tea Exchange and the 1910 Cracker House which is being restored as a historic house museum in which Cracker life in early Florida will be interpreted. Neither building was open, however, I was led to History Walk path, a boardwalk which chronicles St. Augustine’s settlement history through signage along the way. There was a convict train car on display as well as convict statues along the avenue. Displayed here to attract passersby attention, they are great for photo opportunities!

While I did not make it to the historic district on this afternoon, I was glad that I had stumbled upon the Old Town attraction. For first time visitors to St. Augustine, it is a great place to start your exploration of the old city’s history!

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Old Town

  • https://www.visitstaugustine.com/thing-to-do/old-jail
  • Address: 167 San Marco Avenue, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
  • Hours: 0900-1630, daily. Tours start every 20 minutes.
  • Admission: Adults, $13.83, Children (ages 6-12), $7.44, Children (under 6 years), free. Free parking onsite.

Off the Wall

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An infinite number of billboards line the highway for miles between Rapid City and the tiny town of Wall (population 766).

Come to Wall Drug.

See Original Western Paintings at Wall Drug.

Don’t Miss Out. Wall Drug.

Wall Drug or Bust.

Wall Drug. The Experience. Priceless.

Only 5 cents. Hot Coffee. Wall Drug.

Free Ice Water. Wall Drug.

I was heading to the Badlands National Park, but I was intrigued and next thing I knew, I was taking exit 110 off of Interstate 90 and navigating to Wall Drug.

What was this amazing place that you could see dinosaurs, western oil paintings and get coffee for five cents?

First and foremost, Wall Drug is a drug store. It’s also a roadside attraction…a tourist stop…a restaurant…an art gallery…a shopping mall. Each store operates under the Wall Drug brand and attracts two million visitors annually who come to eat, purchase souvenirs, take pictures and see what the fuss is all about.

In 1931, Dorothy and Ted Hustead purchased the only drug store in Wall, South Dakota on the edge of the Badlands National Park. Though the store initially did not attract the attention it gets now, they both knew that Mount Rushmore would be finished in the near future and hoped that it would bring more visitors to the area.

Five years later, when business still had not picked up and cars continually passed them by, Dorothy, unable to sleep during the summer heat, came up with the idea to offer free water to travelers. Ted modeled 12 by 36 signs using Dorothy’s phrases, “Get a soda . . . Get a root beer . . . turn next corner . . . Just as near . . . To Highway 16 & 14. . . Free Ice Water. . . Wall Drug.” He spaced them out along the highway so that people could read them as they drove by.

Dorothy was right. People driving across that hot, dry prairie were very thirsty. They saw the signs and they stopped at Wall Drug, not only for ice water. And they never stopped stopping in.

Over the years, their drug store grew as did their promotions. Five cent coffee was added for those cold winter days and when the United States Air Force operated the Minuteman missile silos east of Wall, the Husteads offered free coffee and donuts to the service personnel as they traveled to and from Ellsworth Air Force Base.

As I pulled into the parking lot, I looked at the quaint buildings that lined each side of the street and was sorry that I didn’t have more time to spend in each…and sorry that I didn’t have a trusty steed to secure to one of the horsehead hitching posts.

Heading into the massive complex of stores that was Wall Drug, I was amazed at its interior. Quirky cowboy-themed statues lined its halls, mounted deer heads perched above my head and even a Zoltar fortune teller was available for everyone’s amusement. Native American tributes were abound, antique pieces scattered to and fro and there was even a Traveler’s Chapel should the need arise to offer up a prayer or two.

It was a great deal of fun wandering from store to store checking out all of the souvenirs and art pieces. I didn’t end up with lunch, which I had planned, but I did find a cute Christmas ornament which paid tribute to Wall Drug’s 5 cent coffee.

Though it was not originally in my plan for the day, I am glad that all of that advertising lured me in. A major part of South Dakota history, it was fun to see Dorothy’s plan in action and what the Husteads created in this small town.

Go get your free water!

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Wall Drug Store

  • https://www.walldrug.com/
  • Address: 510 Main Street, PO Box 401, Wall, South Dakota 57790-0401
  • Hours: Main Store, Monday-Saturday, 0800-1730, Sunday, 0800-1630. Cafe, Monday-Saturday, 0800-1700, Sunday, 0800-1600. Mall Shops, Monday-Saturday, 0830-1700, Sunday, 0830-1630. Pharmacy, Monday-Friday, 0830-1700.
  • Admission: free

In the Market

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Shopping is one of my favorite pastimes, so it comes without saying that when I am in another country, I love to seek out the local markets for unique souvenirs and crafts.

Quito’s Mercado Artesanal La Mariscal was only a block away from our hotel and after one of our long days seeing the sights of the city, we made a quick visit to see if I could find an addition to my nativity collection. This market was very similar to the ones I had visited in Peru and Guatemala and offered some unique and sometimes similar pieces. Even though I found the Ecuadorian addition to my collection, I held off on making additional purchases.

Having heard of the large open-air market in Otavalo, we decided that we would hire a driver to take us there to see what rare treasures we could find.

The colorful Indian market is the largest in Ecuador and located about a two hour drive from Quito in the Imbabura Province of Ecuador. Market days are held every day, but the biggest days are Wednesday and Saturday and products that are offered are some of the nicest in Latin America.

Built in 1970 on the Plaza de los Ponchos, the market consists of concrete umbrella shaped stalls with benches. A prime tourist destination, the town attracts visitors who not only come to see what exclusive goods they can discover but those seeking a romantic destination or one that offers a wide array of outdoor activities including hiking, crater lakes, volcanoes and parks.

Parking on the street nearby, we decided on a time to meet our driver later and made our way through the rows of vendor’s tables and umbrellas to discover what makes this market one of the most recommended by everyone I had spoken to.

As it was a Saturday, the market was quite busy and had taken over all of the side streets leading to the plaza. We wove our through the rows of vendors, stopping to inspect the different wares offered by each…ponchos, jewelry, sweaters, wall hangings, shawls, purses, jackets, masks, food items…you name it! There were even nativity sets, although I was quite content with what I had purchased in Quito.

After a while, the sheer size of the market and the amount of merchandise available for purchase was quite overwhelming. With so much competition, it was easy to barter with the stall owners, many of which were dressed in traditional outfits of white embroidered blouses with lace sleeves, and black or dark blue over skirts with white underskirts for the women and white trousers and dark blue ponchos for men. Once we had made a few purchases for ourselves and family, I began to really to take note (and lots of photos) of how colorful and beautiful my surroundings were.

With quite a bit of time left before meeting our driver, I was quite content to take a seat near the front of the plaza, people watch and try to photographically capture the excitement and hustle and bustle of the market and its participants.

So, in the end…was the two hour drive worth what we discovered?

I think the market in Quito, though not as colorful and energetic as the one in Otavalo, offered just as much of a selection of goods as what we found there. It was nice, however, to be able to discover something in another Ecuadorian city and see what else this beautiful country has to offer.

And…in the end…I got some pretty cool photos!

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Otavalo Market

  • Address: Plaza de los Ponchos, Otavalo, Imbabura 100450
  • Hours: Daily, 0700-1800
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: By bus, from North Terminal, 2-3 hours depending on road work, $5 per person. By car, take the Pan American highway to the north from Quito.

Mercado de Artesanías El Mariscal

  • Address: Reina Victoria and Juan Leon Mera on Jorge Washington Road, Quito Pichincha 170150
  • Hours: Monday-Friday, 0930-1830, Saturday, 0930-1900, Sunday, 1030-1730
  • Admission: free

The French Market

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Having been to many European markets, I know what makes a good one.

Variety!

Does the European inspired French Market in New Orleans measure up?

Absolutely!

Recently, while in the city, I headed down to the French Market to find some unique souvenirs. Though it was late afternoon in winter and some of the vendors had found it too cold to remain, I knew from previous visits that it is usually a quite lively venue.

Offering shopping, dining, music and local tradition, this open-air market has its origins in the Native American trade dating back to 1791. As French and Spanish colonists opened the market up to ships and traders from all over the world, this set up the stage for expansion during the next three centuries. Immigrants from Europe, Africa and the Caribbean, saw the opportunity to offer their own wares at the market, offering various products including Italian meats, fabrics, produce, African coffee and spices, and the bazaar continued to expand.

By the late 19th century, the French Market was in need of a makeover…one that would give it some order. Architect, Joseph Abeilard, designed a modern day structure which is still in use today.

In 1978, the former mayor, Ernest, N. Morial, made the decision to kick up the market’s appeal by introducing Dutch Alley, a pedestrian plaza at Dumaine and St. Phillip Streets. This addition included a performance tent, historic statues, the Dutch Alley Artist Coop and the visitor center for the New Orleans Jazz National Park.

Though I had just had lunch a couple of hours before, my stomach growled at the sights laid out before me and the smells that permeated the air. The famous Cafe du Monde, the outdoor cafe which specialized in beignets and cafe au lait, is nearby but I had already had an order of the powdered sugar covered fried dough the day before and I was itching for something new. Browsing the iconic dishes…Po Boys, Gator Burgers, Jambalaya, Cheese Grits, just to name a few, it was a hard decision knowing I had to leave room for dinner later. With my mind made up, I headed toward the counter for beignets…yes again…but this time from a small dessert establishment which specializes in Praline Beignets! Fried with the praline at the center, it all melts together in your mouth for an unbelievable culinary experience!

My stomach full and my strength replenished, I headed through the protracted market (five blocks in all!), stopping along the way to inspect the t-shirts, produce, specialty art, handmade crafts, prints, scrubs and lotions, handmade jewelry, accessories, photography and much more, offered for sale. Believe me, there’s not much that you can’t find here…you are only limited by the cash in your pocketbook!

If you are staying in a local home and are interested in making the most of your own culinary skills, then the Farmers Market Pavilion is your place! Open daily, this is the place to find seasonal vegetables and homegrown spices in addition to specialty foods with worldly inspirations, especially on Wednesdays and Sundays when vendors come from the entire region with their wares.

If you are visiting in the Spring, look out for the Creole Tomato Festival which is free to the public and offers an endless array of fresh picked tomatoes and tomato based dishes unique to the area.

New Orleans is called the Big Easy, but with so much to experience, especially at the French Market, it is definitely not easy! Grab a table, grab some food and grab the experience!

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The French Market

  • https://www.frenchmarket.org
  • Address: 700-1010 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA 70116
  • Hours: Daily, 0800-1730.
  • Admisssion: free
  • Getting There: Take the St. Charles streetcar from Uptown or the Canal Street streetcar from Mid-City and get off at Canal and Carondelet Street to walk a few blocks to the river. There are paid parking lots along S. Peters Street near Jackson Square.

Adding to the Collections

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Santa Clauses, ornaments, nativity sets, tribal masks….

I collect a lot of things.

And yes, I love my souvenirs.  They don’t necessarily have to be expensive.  I just love looking around my home at the things I have collected from my travels and remembering the good times and also, sometimes the bad.

So, when I am traveling and someone tells me that there is a nice market nearby…I am there!

The Masai Market in Arusha was a short walk away from our hotel and seemed like a great way to spend the afternoon.  Since we were returning to the hotel at the end of our safari, we could purchase our mementos and gifts and leave them checked at the hotel in one of the spare bags that we had brought.

The market was found to be full of the kinds of items you would expect to find in Africa…masks, wood carvings, paintings, fabrics.  Though I have spent considerable time in other markets in Senegal, Ghana and South Africa, my husband had not.  A quick warning about letting me do the negotiations was in order.  I didn’t have to worry about him too much, however, I had all the money!

Needless to say, shopping in an African market can be a daunting task as there are so many people continually asking you to come into their shop.  “To look is free” they tell you, but once you’ve stepped inside, it’s quite hard to leave and get back on task.

Everything I needed was found in the Maasai Market…a mask for my collection, an elephant carving for my husband, t-shirts and a chess set for my sons, baskets for my mother and mother-in-law…but, I have to say, it was exhausting.  The shops in the front of the property were easy to peruse and the salespeople were not pushy, however, entering each alleyway, named after safari destinations in Tanzania, was like entering the land of no return.  The shops were many and the amount of merchandise immeasurable.  You could spend hours lost among the commodities!

When visiting an African market, here are some things to keep in mind.

Before heading to the market…divide your money and place it in different compartments in your wallet, purse or even your pants or jacket pockets.   Do not keep all of your money in one place.  When bargaining later, it helps to say, “this is all I have left, while pulling out a five-dollar bill from a compartment where it is apparent that there is nothing else there.  Believe me, they will watch.

Spend some time walking around the market getting a feel for what is available.  Many of the same types of items are available from many different artisans and some have perfected the item’s quality more than others.

When you see something you like, casually ask for the price, but never ask for the cost of something unless you have made up your mind that you really want to bargain for it.

Tanzanians readily accept U.S. dollars for purchases, however, ask for the price in shillings first, being prepared with the exchange rate.  Only then, ask for the cost in U.S. dollars if you plan to use dollars.  If you have a local friend or guide, take them with you and have them negotiate on your behalf.

Be very matter of fact when you state, “oh, I only have…”  Start with half of their price.

Act shocked at the price.  You might say that it “is much too high for your budget”, but don’t insult the artisan saying that the product “is not worth that much”.

Be prepared to walk away.  Chances are that once you are walking away, they will offer you a better price or the price you asked for.  Remember, there are other vendors with similar or same products.

Speak with the artisan about the item you are purchasing.  Find out what it is made from and how it was made.  Many artisans love to talk about their work and find out what you plan to do with it.  Once, in a woodworking village in Ghana, I was invited into many masks shops, offered tea and encouraged to watch the mask carvers progress with their works.  These masks that I purchased mean more to me, knowing that in some cases, these men had learned their trade from family members, sometimes at the early age of six.

If you are approached by someone other than a vendor in the market, engaging you in small talk and then asking you what you are looking for, don’t fall for it. They may seem friendly and “willing to show you around”, however, be wary. They may be seeking a commission from the artisan or expecting a tip from you or worse, trying to con you.  Be firm and insist that you are fine on your own.

Finally, enjoy yourself, try to enjoy the process and don’t beat yourself up too hard if you don’t get your price.  Sometimes you have to pay a bit more if there is something your really love!

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Maasai Market

  • Address:  School Road, Arusha, Tanzania.  Located about a quarter mile from The Arusha Hotel.
  • Hours:  No posted hours, but operates approximately from 0900 until 1800, daily.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Floating Market

Once we indulged our appetites, we got a little bit of sleep. I knew that we wanted to be at the tour desk when it first opened so that we might have a chance to book a tour to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, something neither Nicki nor I had done on our previous trips.
As tired as I was, my internal clock must have coaxed me awake, because at 7:00 am, my eyes opened wide.
I quickly dressed and went downstairs. Since we had not booked twenty four hours in advance, we were unable to book the official Floating Market “Tour”, but we were informed that we could book a private car, longtail boat and tour to the market. Much better!
Quickly we dressed and returned downstairs to meet our driver, whom we had been informed, was to leave by 9:00 am.
Because it was a national holiday, Chulalongkom Day (the king’s birthday), traffic was horrendous. A trip that would have taken one and a half hours, took three and a half.
Finally, we arrived at the floating market and were escorted onto our boat. image
Driving through the canals, we had a taste of local life. Many houses were built on stilts and some were connected by pier walkways. As usual, the friendly locals met our passing with beautiful smiles and enthusiastic waves.
A stop at the Coconut Sugar Farm gave us insight into how…actually, I am not going to make this up. I have no idea what they do here, besides sell souvenirs and give out free samples of a coconut drink.

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On we drove, stopping locals in their boats for various food items, and stopping at market stalls along the way. Nicki and Angie snagged some clothing items and carvings…since I have been craving Thai food, I had more Pad Thai and then, coconut ice cream! It was more delicious than the last time I had it!

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Because we had arrived so late, some stalls were closed and there were not as many boat vendors in the canals. Still, it was an amazing experience!
After leaving the main area of the floating market, we then went for a visit to Wat Prok Charoen buddhist temple and returned to the dock for our drive back to Bangkok.

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