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Covid 19 was something we didn’t see coming. It literally stopped us in our tracks.
Being in the travel industry, it prohibited me from doing my job as people were allowed to travel only for essential purposes only. While I could have remained employed, just getting to and from work proved to be problematic and it was easier to remain home.
After a year of lockdowns, however, things were starting to open up in the world and people were ready to put their toes in the water once again. Not able to travel across the pond, as Europe still wasn’t ready to welcome Americans, there were other locations that were eager to crack their doors…with a few restrictions.
As for me? I was ready to get back out there and return to work!
While many passengers weren’t even ready to sit for eight or nine hours in a metal tube with others whose inoculation status they were unsure of, they were willing to take shorter flights. Hence, the islands of the Caribbean became their go-to spot as evidenced by overbooked flights even with mandated tests to enter and depart.
Finding myself with a long layover in San Juan, I was a little unsure of what I would experience in the Puerto Rico capital during these first few months. Hearing stories of curfews and numerous restrictions, I packed my bathing suit, suntan lotion some just-in-case meal options and prayed that at least the beaches would remain open.
When I arrived, what I found at my bustling resort were pools and beaches filled to capacity with everyone happy and eager to enjoy the great outdoors and their first, in many cases, vacations in a pandemic world.
So, what would that mean when I left the resort and ventured into one of my very favorite places, Old San Juan?
Old San Juan, known for its cobblestoned streets, colorful Spanish colonial buildings and massive 16th century forts, bars and restaurants is also a busy cruise port which yields millions of dollars in revenue for the island along with millions of visitors. With no cruise ships docked at the piers and none of those passengers walking the streets, how was the old town faring?
As I watched the passing architecture from my Uber’s window, I wondered what it would be like making my way through the old town area…would shops, attractions and restaurants be open? My research had shown yes, to a degree, but just how many visitors would I encounter in the normally crowded city and how difficult would it be to wear a mask in the hot, humid climate, even outside, as was mandated?
As my driver dropped me off at Plaza Colon, the first thing I noticed was that many restaurants were not open and the ones that were, were closing fairly early. There would be none of the casual browsing in the countless shops as each only allowed three persons inside at a time, with lines slinking up the adjacent sidewalks. But the crowds one normally encounters, were not there.
Wandering the charming narrow streets, I fell into my normal routine of photographing the beauty that surrounded me. I rather enjoyed not having to wait for a group of tourists to pass so that I could get my photograph and when I finally decided to partake in Happy Hour, there were tables readily available.
I must admit, however, the mask was difficult. It was extremely hot, aggravated my asthma and I was not accustomed to wearing it for such long durations, especially in the outdoors.
Nevertheless, happy to be out and about, I made my way through the city, enjoying the architecture and city’s highlights.
Though I realized the impact of not having the number of visitors that the city was usually accustomed, it wasn’t too bad for me. If it weren’t for the masks, I could have been lost in my reacquaintance with the city, enjoying its sights and sounds. However, if I could have forgotten about the mask’s hinderance on my breathing, I think my overall experience would have been hiked up more than a notch. But there was definitely no forgetting…
I was sure to be reminded by some of Old San Juan’s landmarks.
Yes, this was Puerto Rico…pandemic style!
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Old San Juan
Our first stop, the beautiful Torre de Belém. Sitting in the middle of the water, on a small island, it is accessible by bridge. Built in the 16th century, this fortified tower was once a part of the defense system at the mouth of the Tagus river and a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was commissioned by King John II and is composed of a bastion and a four story tower built in the Portuguese Manueline style.
As I took picture after picture, I realized that this beautiful structure reminded me of a sandcastle still standing even after the tide has surrounded it. Though I would have liked to tour the tower, it was getting late, there was a line and my travel partners were not interested in waiting. Reluctantly, I walked away to discover the other monuments in the area, knowing that I would have to make this a priority when I returned.
The next monument along the shore was the Monumento aos Combatentes do Ultramar. Similar to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., this monument pays tribute to those who fought in the Portuguese War in Africa, from 1961-1974. Both striking and somber, the monument, designed by artists Carlos Guerrero and Batista Barros, is comprised of three distinctive sections…the flame, the monument and the memorial wall. While the flame burns eternally, you can take note of over 9,000 names of the fallen inscribed alphabetically and by year on the marble wall behind it. Standing in the shallow pool, are two large angled pillars jutting out above the flame.
A small chapel is located inside in the monument and there is a museum adjacent which focuses on Portuguese Overseas Wars, the modern Portuguese military and World War I objects. There is also a tomb of an unknown soldier from this war, brought from Guinea-Bissau.
The monument, erected in 1960, celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery during the 15th and 16th centuries when Porgual dominated the sea trade between the continents. Observing a design originally conceived by Jose Angelo Cottineli Telmo and then Antonio Pardal Monteiro, the structure was adorned with thirty-four sculptures by Leopoldo de Almeida, including Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan. The main statue of Henry the Navigator, as well as the others, represent those who have contributed to Portugal’s reputation in the age of discoveries; poets, explorers, navigators, crusaders and mapmakers.
Though we did not enter the structure, we were informed that it is divided into three levels. The ground floor covers the history of Lisbon, the second has two exhibition halls and four other rooms on the third floor. The top of the monument is accessible and used as a watchtower.
The festival’s main idea is to bring together the entire peninsula and increase the awareness of its unique culture and traditions, especially with the incorporation of the pagan masks which are common in the Spanish and Portuguese cultures. Besides the regional groups participating, this year’s parade included Boi Tinga from Brazil and The Mummers from Ireland.
After the parade was over, we followed the crowds into Jardim de Belém discovering dozens of stands showcasing local products such as wine, cheese, chocolates and handicrafts. Grabbing a beer and a delicious prosciutto and cheese sandwich, we acquired seats at a picnic table and enjoyed our dinner in the late afternoon sunshine while local performers entertained us on the nearby stage.
