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Taking in the sights of Lisbon takes a lot out of you!
Sometimes you just need a little pick me up…a little dessert to tide you over until dinnertime.
So…where do you go? There are many places throughout Lisbon that you will spot pastel de nata, a Portuguese egg custard tart pastry being sold. If you are in Belém, however, the place to go is Pastéis de Belém.
A popular dessert in other parts of western Europe, Asia and former Portuguese colonies, such as Brazil, Mozambique, Macau, Goa and East Timor, it is most well known as the dessert of choice in Portugal and is sometimes called Pastel de Belém or Pastries of Bethlehem.
A visit to the Monasteiro Jeronimos had brought us to Belém and I had decided that we would check out the dessert shop while we were in the area.
A short walk from the monastery took us to the shop that was established at the beginning of the nineteenth century. At the time, convents and monasteries in the country were shut down due to the Liberal Revolution in 1820. Clergy and laborers were expelled in 1834, so in an attempt to earn a living, someone from the monastery began selling pastries in the nearby general store which soon became extremely popular.
In 1837, the dessert’s productions took place in buildings attached to a sugar refinery which was also attached to the general store. The recipe was kept secret and only passed on to master confectioners who made the pastries away from prying eyes.
Though, at the time, Belém was a little far from Lisbon’s center, the grandeur of the monastery and other nearby attractions attracted visitor’s who then became accustomed to the delicious pastries. Word spread back to Lisbon and Pasteis de Belém was born!
Today, word has not only spread to Lisbon, but throughout the world! As we approached, we noticed a long line waiting to enter the restaurant’s doors alongside the beautiful tile work that advertises the name and year of the establishment. Taking our place in line, we were finally seated about twenty minutes later.
The walls were decorated in the traditional blue and white tiles seen throughout Portugal and the ceiling was embellished with elaborate millwork. There were many tables scattered throughout various rooms, causing the waiters to skillfully slide between them while balancing plates and trays of drinks.
It didn’t take long to place our order or receive it and we learned that the menu not only offered the famous desserts but other tasty treats such as Bolo Inglês, Marmelada, Sortido, Salgados as well as coffees and other drinks.
As expected, everything was delicious but there was not much time to linger and rest. Tables were needed to accommodate those who were now waiting in that very long line!
And we had other things to see in Belém…now that our bellies were full and our sweet tooth was satisfied!
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Pastéis de Belém
- https://pasteisdebelem.pt/en/
- Address: Rua de Belém nº 84 a 92, 1300 – 085 Lisboa, Portugal
- Hours: daily, 0800-2000. Closure at 2200 from June 1 – October 15. On December 24, 25, 31 and January 1, closure at 1900.
- Admission: free, prices for food and drink items vary
- Getting There: Train, Line 19001 from Cais Do Sodre station (7 minutes), Bus from Santos station (15 minutes), Tram, Pç. Figueira to Altinho (19 minutes), Uber (8 minutes).
One of the most decorative churches in Portugal, the monastery was built on the site of the church dedicated to Santa Maria de Belém on the harbor of Praia do Restelo. Monks of the military-religious Order of Christ resided here at the time and provided assistance to seafarers in transit.
The Monastery of Jerónimos is one of the most visited landmarks in Lisbon and tourists should be aware of long waits to enter…I had no idea. Fortunately, as I took my place in line, I was informed by a passerby that I could enter the Archaeological Museum next door, purchase my ticket there and skip the line. Of course, I was a bit skeptical…if I left my place in line and what I was told was inaccurate, it would be back to the end of the line again. Thankfully, they were correct. I waited for ten minutes, purchased my ticket and walked past everyone who had been in front of me and was still waiting in the warm afternoon temperatures.
You will also encounter some of the remains of important figures in Portuguese history, including presidents Teófilo Braga and Oscar Carmona, playwright, Almeida Garrett and modern poet Fernando Pessoa.
The Church of Santa Maria de Belém, in the monastery, does not need a ticket to enter and is truly the highlight of the monastery. Access to the upper level choir loft is from the monastery, so be sure not to miss it. Take in the view of the church from above before heading downstairs. Of particular interest is the crucifix, the beautiful paintings and the carved choir seating all bathed in the subtle light streaming in from the rose window.
As I entered the church’s lower lever, my senses were truly overloaded as I was not sure where to set my gaze. Entering from the side portal, I first encountered the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões which are located in the lower choir. These magnificent tombs, designed by sculptor Costa Mota can be admired from all angles and both offer extreme detail. The baptismal chapel is also located near the side doors as well as the exquisite Altar Dourado. Along the north wall are beautiful confessionals and large stained glass windows decorate the space, allowing alluring filtered light to enter.
As I walked around the church and marveled at the amazing details that decorated every niche, every column and every arch, I encountered the remains of Cardinal-King Dom Henrique and the children of Manuel I as well as the tomb of King Sebastião and the descendants of King João III.
Overall, my visited lasted just over an hour and I was touched by the artistry and grandeur of this amazing place.
As I entered the fortress-like facade, with its two large clock towers and massive solid walls, I ran my hand over the large wooden doors passing through into the interior. The first thing I noticed, however, was how dark the cathedral appeared. Though the second story of the ambulatory has a series of windows and the narrow windows of the lateral aisles allow light to enter, the church appeared to be much more gloomy than others I have visited.
Dodging other visitors, we made our way toward the front of the church admiring the rose window in the West facade and the interesting barrel vaulting of the nave.
Especially interesting were the chapels, one especially enclosed by a Romanesque gate. Others include a funerary chapel, near the entrance of the cathedral, built by wealthy merchant Bartolomeu Joanes in the 14th century which still contains his tomb with his laying figure inside.
At the end of the 13th century, King Dinis of Portugal ordered the construction of a Gothic-style cloister. The cloister was damaged, along with many chapels and the royal pantheon during the earthquake of 1755. Since renovated, the cloisters can be visited today, however, when we visited, it was Sunday and they had not yet opened for the afternoon. I was truly disappointed as I understand, the tile work is simply amazing and it offers some of the most beautiful architecture in the city. Additionally, we were not able to visit the Treasury as it is also closed on Sunday.
Approaching the vertical structure from the rear, I gazed up at the walkway connecting the tower to Largo do Carmo, catching a glimpse of those traversing the walkway and others peeking out over the edge of the observation decks. The iron structure, with its neo-gothic arches and geometric patterns, is truly remarkable to see up close, towering seven stories with its four vertical columns, each composed of two pillars. And if you think there is some semblance to the Eiffel Tower, you would be correct. Roberto Arménio was, indeed, a former student of civil engineer and architect, Gustave Eiffel!
Exiting the elevator, I stepped out on the platform and made my way around the structure.
Our first stop, the beautiful Torre de Belém. Sitting in the middle of the water, on a small island, it is accessible by bridge. Built in the 16th century, this fortified tower was once a part of the defense system at the mouth of the Tagus river and a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was commissioned by King John II and is composed of a bastion and a four story tower built in the Portuguese Manueline style.
As I took picture after picture, I realized that this beautiful structure reminded me of a sandcastle still standing even after the tide has surrounded it. Though I would have liked to tour the tower, it was getting late, there was a line and my travel partners were not interested in waiting. Reluctantly, I walked away to discover the other monuments in the area, knowing that I would have to make this a priority when I returned.
The next monument along the shore was the Monumento aos Combatentes do Ultramar. Similar to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., this monument pays tribute to those who fought in the Portuguese War in Africa, from 1961-1974. Both striking and somber, the monument, designed by artists Carlos Guerrero and Batista Barros, is comprised of three distinctive sections…the flame, the monument and the memorial wall. While the flame burns eternally, you can take note of over 9,000 names of the fallen inscribed alphabetically and by year on the marble wall behind it. Standing in the shallow pool, are two large angled pillars jutting out above the flame.
A small chapel is located inside in the monument and there is a museum adjacent which focuses on Portuguese Overseas Wars, the modern Portuguese military and World War I objects. There is also a tomb of an unknown soldier from this war, brought from Guinea-Bissau.
The monument, erected in 1960, celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery during the 15th and 16th centuries when Porgual dominated the sea trade between the continents. Observing a design originally conceived by Jose Angelo Cottineli Telmo and then Antonio Pardal Monteiro, the structure was adorned with thirty-four sculptures by Leopoldo de Almeida, including Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan. The main statue of Henry the Navigator, as well as the others, represent those who have contributed to Portugal’s reputation in the age of discoveries; poets, explorers, navigators, crusaders and mapmakers.
Though we did not enter the structure, we were informed that it is divided into three levels. The ground floor covers the history of Lisbon, the second has two exhibition halls and four other rooms on the third floor. The top of the monument is accessible and used as a watchtower.
The festival’s main idea is to bring together the entire peninsula and increase the awareness of its unique culture and traditions, especially with the incorporation of the pagan masks which are common in the Spanish and Portuguese cultures. Besides the regional groups participating, this year’s parade included Boi Tinga from Brazil and The Mummers from Ireland.
After the parade was over, we followed the crowds into Jardim de Belém discovering dozens of stands showcasing local products such as wine, cheese, chocolates and handicrafts. Grabbing a beer and a delicious prosciutto and cheese sandwich, we acquired seats at a picnic table and enjoyed our dinner in the late afternoon sunshine while local performers entertained us on the nearby stage.
You will also notice many tuk tuks throughout the city. A common and cheap mode of transportation in Asia, the tuk tuk was introduced to Portugal a few years ago. Popular with tourists, for their availability and for their ease of travel through the narrow streets, you can find them outside of most attractions. Beware, however…the price you pay in Asia is not what you pay in Lisbon.
Enjoy the view. There are many overlooks throughout the city. For the most breathtaking views, head over to the Elevador de Santa Justa, an historic attraction that connects the lower streets of the Baixa with the higher Largo do Carmo. Built in the 19th century and the only remaining vertical lift, it provides an invaluable service by eliminating the steep climb up Carmo Hill.
Miradouro da Graça is situated on the hill of Santo André and overlooks many old neighborhoods like Mouraria, Alfama, the downtown area, Castelo Saõ Jorge, the river and 25th April Bridge. Here, you can enjoy a drink in the esplanade facing Lisbon’s roofs and try to identify the many monuments and landmarks below. If Tram 28 is too crowded, catch bus 712 (Marquês de Pombal) or 726 and disembark at Sapadores for a short walk.
Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara provides views over to the castle and a little market offering nice souvenirs and food and beer stalls. It is easy to access on foot from Bairro Alto or from Rossio below via the Ascensor da Gloria.
Have a treasure hunt. So, not really in the sense you may be thinking. Portuguese tiles, or azulegos, were introduced during Moorish times and adorn dozens of buildings throughout the city. Be on the lookout for these vibrant decorations, especially in the neighborhoods of Alfama, Chiado and Cais do Sodré. If you don’t feel like seeking these tiles out on your own and would like to inspect them at a closer distance, head out to the Museu Nacional Do Azulejo which is filled with tiles of all colors and sizes, some dating back to the 15th century. If discovering how these tiles are made is what you are after, you can also learn about the process here. If money is no object, you can book at stay at the 
With so much to do in this Portuguese capitol, there’s probably not enough time to tackle them all. So, you may have to return…so then you can say,
A restaurant is located here on the promenade and wine vendors offer Portuguese samplings to quench your thirst in the hot, sunny afternoons.
Making our way into the interior of the structure, we marveled at the towering walls and walked along the ramparts admiring both the views and the wind whipping the country’s flags.
Ruins of older structures and a cistern were visible in the courtyard as well as a small door on the northern wall called the Door of Treason which allowed secret messengers to enter or exit as needed. Take a moment to have a seat in one of the garden areas and admire the many pieces of sculptures that adorn the premises. The gardens of Castelo de St. Jorge is a place to be cherished as it is one of the only remaining green spaces in Lisbon where native species of the Portuguese forest hold court. Here, visitors can observe trees such as cork oaks, carobs, strawberry, umbrella pines and various fruit trees.
While there are other, more beautiful and more preserved castles throughout the country, Castelo de St. Jorge is easy to reach and is rich in history. More importantly, with its prominent location high above the city, it is the perfect place to start your exploration of the Portuguese capital.