Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

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During my last visit to Lisbon, I made the journey to the coastal area of Belém.  With so many things to see and do there, I was disappointed to realize that there wasn’t sufficient time in my short afternoon to visit all of the landmarks.  During this trip, we were fortunate to be there for the Festival of the Mask, which takes place on the grounds of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos.

Staring at the beautiful building, I was mesmerized at its intricate facade and decided that this beautiful building would be first on the list of places to visit on my next trip.

One of the most decorative churches in Portugal, the monastery was built on the site of the church dedicated to Santa Maria de Belém on the harbor of Praia do Restelo.  Monks of the military-religious Order of Christ resided here at the time and provided assistance to seafarers in transit.

In 1495, Manuel I inaugurated the construction of the existing structure and the Hieronymites order of monks were chosen to reside in the complex, remaining there for over four centuries.  The building of the time was already in disrepair when Vasco da Gama and his men spent the night in prayer there before departing on their Orient expedition in 1497.

Construction of the monastery was initiated on January 6, 1501 and eventually took 100 years until its completion.  As an overabundance of taxes were collected, architects’ plans grew until it reached the size, scale and style that you see today.  The Manueline ornamentation in the cloisters incorporates maritime elements and objects discovered during naval expeditions, carved in limestone.  The main chapel, the choir and the two stories of the monastery were completed in 1550, however thirty years later, construction was halted as funds were redirected to the Escorialin in Spain as Portugal and Spain united.

After various parts of the monastery was completed in the 1600s (new portal, cloister door, house of the doorkeepers, staircase and a hall that was the entrance to the upper choir), the monastery became the burial place for the royal pantheon.

Additional adornments were completed in the 1700s, including important paintings by artist Henrique Ferreira.  After the earthquake of 1755, much of the artwork and treasures were transferred to the crown or lost and the structure was vacated.

During the late 1800s, restorations began on the property, including the cloisters.  The annex and facade of the church were altered dramatically and are what you see today.

The Monastery of Jerónimos is one of the most visited landmarks in Lisbon and tourists should be aware of long waits to enter…I had no idea.  Fortunately, as I took my place in line, I was informed by a passerby that I could enter the Archaeological Museum next door, purchase my ticket there and skip the line.  Of course, I was a bit skeptical…if I left my place in line and what I was told was inaccurate, it would be back to the end of the line again.  Thankfully, they were correct.  I waited for ten minutes, purchased my ticket and walked past everyone who had been in front of me and was still waiting in the warm afternoon temperatures.

The monastery is truly magnificent, with its carvings of saints over its entryways and fine stone details…make sure to stop by the South Entrance which is truly magnificent.  Once inside, the two level cloister is a sight to behold with pinnacles, gargoyles and other decorative features and long, architectural corridors.

The interior gardens offer a mixture of the Manuelino, European, Moorish and Eastern styles, symbols of the Portuguese empire and its power throughout the world.  Certainly a place to take your time, admire the architecture and spend a bit of time in reflection on one of the many alcoves on the upper level.  Pay particular attention to all of the different carvings on each of the columns…faces, rosettes, dates.

You will also encounter  some of the remains of important figures in Portuguese history, including presidents Teófilo Braga and Oscar Carmona, playwright, Almeida Garrett and modern poet Fernando Pessoa.

The Church of Santa Maria de Belém, in the monastery, does not need a ticket to enter and is truly the highlight of the monastery.  Access to the upper level choir loft is from the monastery, so be sure not to miss it.  Take in the view of the church from above before heading downstairs.  Of particular interest is the crucifix, the beautiful paintings and the carved choir seating all bathed in the subtle light streaming in from the rose window.

 

As I entered the church’s lower lever, my senses were truly overloaded as I was not sure where to set my gaze.  Entering from the side portal, I first encountered the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões which are located in the lower choir.  These magnificent tombs, designed by sculptor Costa Mota can be admired from all angles and both offer extreme detail.  The baptismal chapel is also located near the side doors as well as the exquisite Altar Dourado.  Along the north wall are beautiful confessionals and large stained glass windows decorate the space, allowing alluring filtered light to enter.

Tomb of Vasco da Gama
Tomb of Luís de Camões
Baptismal Chapel

Altar Dourado

As I walked around the church and marveled at the amazing details that decorated every niche, every column and every arch, I encountered the remains of Cardinal-King Dom Henrique and the children of Manuel I as well as the tomb of King Sebastião and the descendants of King João III.

Make sure to walk near the altar for a closer look at the beautifully painted walls and golden tabernacle.  The golden organ is also located at the front of the church.

Overall, my visited lasted just over an hour and I was touched by the artistry and grandeur of this amazing place.

When visiting Lisbon, make sure to head over to Belem to experience some of the most beautiful architecture in the city.  Worth any amount of time you may have to spend in line, Jerónimos Monastery is a masterpiece!

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Monsteiro dos Jerónimos

  • http://www.mosteirojeronimos.gov.pt/pt/index.php
  • Address:  Praça do Império 1400-206 Lisboa, Portugal
  • Hours:  October to April, 1000-1730, May to September, 1000-1830.   Closed Mondays, January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, June 13 and 25 December.
  • Admission:  Individuals, 10€.  Combination ticket, Monastery and National Archaeological Museum, 12€.  50% discount for 65 years and older.  Family ticket, 50% discount for 2 adults, 2 children, ages 0-18.
  • Getting There:  #15 Tram from the city center runs to Belem
  • Additional Information:  Gift shop located within the monastery as well as an exhibit on the history and construction of the monastery.

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