religious institutions – Snapping The Globe

Friends in Foreign Places

Portugal is one of those places that you just can’t get enough of. Of course, that being said, your legs and feet might tire quickly of the multitude of stairs and elevations that comes with climbing throughout hilly cities like Lisbon and Sintra!

One day, I decided that I needed some sea-level sight-seeing. A friend was in the nearby coastal community of Cascais perfecting his Portuguese in one of the local schools and I made a plan to take the train for a quick visit.

After working all night, a nap was desperately needed, so I texted him that I would take the three o’clock train. Of course, my Uber ride to the station was delayed by traffic so my departure was about twenty minutes later, but still, daylight hours are plentiful in late May and we would have time to do a quick tour of the town.

Forty minutes later, after some beautiful coastal scenery, I was waving to Dave as I exited the train. There were some items of particular interest that I wanted to explore on my own and had planned to meet Dave a little later (so as not to bore him), but he insisted that he would be my tour guide so that I would not miss anything!

Setting off from the station, Dave and I began our trek on the cobbled streets of Cascais, passing colorful buildings, patterned walkways and stunning architecture underneath a dazzling blue sky. Boats bobbed on the water, sunbathers lounged lazily on the Praia da Rebeira and residents and visitors were out in full force exercising and enjoying the beauty and warmth of the afternoon.

*The sights and architecture of Cascais*

First, we encountered 5th of October Square, the heart of Cascais, of which the name comes from the revolution in 1910, when the monarchy was abolished in Portugal. This square boasts the traditional black and white calçada, wave-patterned pavement, which can be seen throughout the city, as well as the Old Town Hall and the statue of Dom Pedro I, King of 14th century Portugal.

Moving on, we found Nossa Senhora Da Assunção (Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral). Dave was not sure of its opening hours, however, we were lucky enough to find the doors open. This church was originally built in the 1500s on the site of a Visigothic necropolis. Damaged by the 1755 earthquake, it was restored and remains the main church of Cascais.

Inside the single-nave church, we were greeted by a barrel-vaulted ceiling centered with a image created by José Malhoa of Our Lady of the Assumption and original blue tile panels that were added from 1720 to 1748, depicting scenes of the life of the Virgin, which thankfully, survived the earthquake’s fury.

The gilded-wooden main altar at the far end was remarkably detailed as well as the side chapels designed in the same style. On the upper walls, there were a number of 17th century paintings, some by Josefa d’Obidos, one of Portugal’s most prolific painters and one of the few female artists in the world at the time. The baptistry also contained some traditional tilework in the Portuguese style.

While the cathedral wasn’t a large one, it’s impressive interior was worth visiting and we were glad that we had encountered it unlocked, as we learned later that it usually only opens for services.

As we circled the building, we found a statue of Pope John Paul II, which was unveiled in 2010 as a tribute to the much loved Pope by the city. The life-sized statue depicts the Pope bestowing a blessing and holding a staff and was designed by artist Alves André.

A short walk from the cathedral, we found the entrance to the Citadel of Cascais which was built between the 15th and 17th centuries to defend the coastline and to protect attacks on the capital city, Lisbon, by the English. By the 19th century, however, King Luis I of Portugal ordered it to become a place of rest and retreat for the royal family. As the royal family spent the months of September and October in the city, it grew and attracted other affluent people who also desired to spend their summers there. Electricity was installed in the late 1800s and in 1977, the complex was restored and classified as a Property of Public Interest.

While I expected the traditional architecture of a fortification, I wasn’t quite expecting what lay inside. Normally, I would think to find cannons and war memorabilia, however, the Citadel now boasts an Arts Center and a hotel built into one of its buildings. There were some interesting pieces of modern art scattered throughout the premises as well as the traditional patterned pavement, blending old with the new.

A little further down Avenida R. Humberto II de Italia, we discovered the 17th century Chapel São Sabastião on the grounds of the Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães and Marechal Carmona Park. The chapel is closed to the public, but we learned that its interior’s walls are lined with traditional painted tile images of Saint Sebastian’s life and his deeds as a saint. The chapel is maintained by the Dominican fathers, who hold religious services in English every Sunday, and it is a popular location for weddings and baptisms.

Walking a short distance, we checked out the grounds of the museum, posing alongside the painted tile fountain and checked out its cloister. Its décor was extremely detailed, yet eclectic, and while we were curious about its interior and history, we did not have time to include it in our visit. What we did learn, however, was that it was originally known as the Torre de São Sebastião (St. Sebastian’s Tower) and was built in 1900 as an aristocrat’s summer residence. It became a museum in 1931 and includes significant national and international paintings, furniture, porcelain, jewelry and a neo-Gothic organ.

While what we had seen so far of the building’s exterior was stunning, it wasn’t until we continued on Avenida Rei Humberto II de Italia that we realized its most striking feature…the tower, with its base jutting out into a small cove. There are several gargoyles, protruding eaves and porches and it sits alongside a small beach and the waterway that passes underneath the road. And to the tower’s yin, there was its yang sitting across the road on the coast…the lofty Santa Maria Lighthouse, adjacent to Casa Santa Maria, a perfect example of a Portuguese house.

As if this scenery wasn’t spectacular enough, a little further up the road, we encountered a pathway leading to the natural bridge, Boca do Inferno, formed by the erosion of rock from the pounding of the waves beneath. There were a few restaurants here, some street performers and a building with a few vendors. It was a nice place to regroup for our walk back to town.

Dave and I were walking along, back to town, conversing about work. Since our job is so unique, sometimes people can discern what we do just from the terms we use. All of a sudden, a couple sidled up along side of us and asked us if we were flight attendants. After a short conversation, amazingly enough, they knew someone who had worked for our company and had retired in Cascais! They tried calling her to meet us, unsuccessfully, however, but they continued to walk with us back toward town.

Next thing you know, we were accepting an invitation to have drinks at their charming apartment in the center of town! Since Dave is planning to possibly retire there one day, it was a convenient meeting and the makings of a new friendship!

Unfortunately for me, despite the wonderful company, I had to bid my adieu to my old friend Dave and our new friends to make my train back to Lisbon. Missing out on dinner with this amazing group was unfortunate, but dinner plans with some of my crewmembers was approaching.

Now that I know how beautiful Cascais is, however, I will most definitely be making my way there again in the future…especially when Dave will be there! It pays to have friends in foreign places!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

5th of October Square

https://lisbonportugal.ca/coast/cascais-town-hall.html
Address: Praca 5 de Outubro, 2750-642, Cascais
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção

https://paroquiaassuncao.org.br/
Address: Tv. Navegantes 16, 2750-444, Cascais, Portugal
Hours: unverified
Admission: free

Citadel of Cascais

Address: Avenida D. Carlos I, Cascais, 2750-642
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1800. Guided tours from Wednesdays to Sundays at 1200.
Admission: €4.00

Chapel São Sabastião

Address 2750-642, Cascais, Portugal
Hours: not open to the public except for religious services on Sundays
Admission: free

Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães

https://bairrodosmuseus.cascais.pt/list/museu/museu-condes-de-castro-guimaraes/
Address: Avª. Rei Humberto II de Itália, 2750-319 Cascais
Hours: Closed Monday. Tuesday-Friday, 1000-1700, Saturday and Sunday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1700.
Admission: €5.00, Cascais Cultural Center/House of Stories Paula Rego/Santa Maria House/Lighthouse Santa Marta Museum. €4.00, Condes Castro Guimarães Museum.€3.00, King D. Carlos Sea Museum/Museum of Portuguese Music/Fort of S. Jorge de Oitavos. €1.00, Casa Duarte Pinto Coelho. Daily ticket to visit all facilities valid for 1 day, €13.00. Senior tickets, students and Cascais residents, 50% discount on the entrance ticket. Free first Sunday of each month.

Santa Maria Lighthouse Museum

https://www.visitlisboa.com/en/places/santa-marta-lighthouse-museum
Address: Rua do Farol de Santa Marta, 2750-341Cascais
Hours: Closed Monday. Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1700.
Admission: €5.00 and includes admission to Casa Santa Mara

Boca do Inferno

Address: Avenida Redi Humberto II de Italia 642, 2750-642 Cascais, Portugal
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Vibrant Verona

While visiting Venice is an amazing experience, after having been there many times, one gets the itch to see other cities in the region. Having already taken the train to Padua a few years prior, I was planning on seeing some other nearby cities. On this particular day, however, realizing that we had arrived a little earlier than normal, I decided to venture out a little further…to Verona.

Verona is one of the main tourist destinations in northern Italy, situated on the Adige River and known as the setting for two of William Shakespeare’s plays, Romeo and Juliet and The Two Gentlemen of Verona. Because of its artistic heritage and opera season staged in its Roman amphitheater, it attracts millions of visitors each year.

Ruled by the della Scala family during the 13th and 14th century, the city was extremely prosperous during their reign and this wealth can be spied throughout its boundaries today; in its monuments, walls and architecture and more. While I was aware that many tourists head straight to Juliet’s House and Museum, one of the most famous places in the city, I decided to do this as well, but also to see the other aspects that make this UNESCO World Heritage Site so special.

After the hour and ten minute train ride, I quickly ducked into a station shop to purchase a face mask for the return trip or for any other attraction which might require it. During my train ride, I had realized that KN95 face masks were still required on public transportation when conductors removed five British travelers at the stop prior to Verona’s Porta Nuova station. While I had a regular surgical mask, I realized that it was not enough and was thankful that I went unnoticed.

Thankful that crisis had been averted, I set out to walk to the city center, first stopping at the Porta Nuova (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=30718), the city’s old gate. Stopping for a few photos, I then continued on Corso Porta Nuova past Giardini Pradaval and its sculptures and statues, the Lapidary Museum Maffeiano and I Portoni della Bra the historic gate that once divided the city from the countryside and connects the Porta Nuova railway station to Piazza Bra. While I felt welcomed by the city gate Porta Nuova, it was when I walked through the arches of I Portoni della Bra that I felt as though I was truly entering the city and readied myself for the city’s beauty.

Having planned to see the amphitheater, I decided to take a detour and walk toward the river and the Castelvecchio Museum, since its opening hours were fewer. Making my way across its intimidating drawbridge into the courtyard, I then headed inside to make my way through its major Italian art collections distributed over twenty-nine rooms. Sculpture, paintings, ancient weapons, ceramics, goldsmiths, miniatures and ancient city bells were artfully displayed throughout the castle which dates back to the mid 1300s. While it was built as a residence for the della Scala family, it was mainly used for the military defense of the city and that is evident by its towering walls and battlements.

While I enjoyed my walk through the castle’s interior, what I really wanted to do was investigate the courtyards, the battlements and the clock tower. Climbing up the stairway, I made my way first to the rear of the castle and was rewarded with stunning views of the river and the Scaligero Bridge. It was a beautiful day and being out on the walls was the perfect place to be! Some of the passageways were a bit narrow but easy to navigate and to reach the seven towers. From the front of the castle, the views of the city, the large courtyard, the clock tower and the small courtyard beneath the tower were so stunning that I could have stayed up there all day. Finally, I passed through the adjacent walkway to the bridge and took a quick stroll across so that I could say “I did”.

If I was going to see everything, however, it was time to move on and I decided to continue my path along the Corso Cavour, which follows the river. A short stroll later, I passed the Arco dei Gavi, a massive, ancient white-marble arch which was was used as a gate in the walls during the Middle Ages. During the Napoleonic rule, French engineers demolished it and its ruins were moved to a square and then to the arena. In 1932, the arch was reconstructed, under Mussolini’s rule, in its current spot next to the Castelvecchio, very near its original location.

A little further down the road, I happened upon the Basilica di San Lorenzo. As I always make time for a church, I spent a few moments walking through this 12th structure. Built in the Romanesque style on the remains of a 5th or 6th century paleo-Christian building, using some of the original materials, it was interesting to see the two different types of building materials stemming from the different phases of construction…alternating brick and stone which gives the interior a striking pattern of strips in the columns and the walls and apse. Listening in to a tour guide’s spiel, I also learned that a unique feature is the presence of the women’s galleries, still intact and open onto three sides. Though my stop was a quick one, I was glad to see this beautiful church.

Near the Ponte della Vittoria, I decided to move into the city center as there was more to see in that domain. A few minutes later, I passed under the impressive Porta Borsari, the arched limestone gate, which dates back to the 1st century and served as the main entrance to the city.

There were many more churches, including the Church of St. Eufemia; some open, some closed for the afternoon, and as I spied many balconies, I thought of Juliet’s House, which I had planned to visit…whenever I got there! But of course, there was so much to see along the way!

Glancing at my watch, I decided to snatch a few moments at the Church of San Giovanni in Foro. A minor church, it was built on what was the main Roman road. Badly damaged by fire in 1172, while much of Verona was destroyed, its restoration in the early 1900s led to the discovery that Roman walls had been incorporated into the external walls of the church. It was small and dimly lit, but its beautiful mosaics, stone walls and ancient paintings made me glad that I had stumbled upon this gem.

Continuing on, I finally made my way to the beautiful Piazza delle Erbe, which was once the center of the city’s political and economic life. There were many market stalls hawking souvenirs and food, but there were lots of statues, fountains and other landmarks to see. More importantly, the square is surrounded by many buildings and monuments that have marked the history of Verona…City Hall, Lamberti Tower, the Houses of Mazzanti, Maffei Palace, the Gardello Tower and the Casa dei Mercanti (Merchant’s House). What I loved most, however, was the ancient fountain (circa 1368) with its roman statue, Madonna Verona, built by Bonino da Campione, which stands proudly in the center of the square and welcomes visitors to investigate its history.

My goodness…what wasn’t there to see? I love everything about Rome and its “in your face architecture”, but the simplicity of Verona with the minor details that begged you to slow down and savor it was unlike anything I had ever experienced in Italy. Everywhere I laid my eyes, there was stunning construction, architectural details on every building, including balconies upon which other Italian ladies, like the fictional Juliet, may have stood, conversing down to their young paramours.

Finding my way to the Scaliger Tombs, I decided that I needed to enter the premises so that I could see these stunning tombs at close range. After paying my entrance fee, I was given a handout to guide me through the small courtyard. Each of the elaborate tombs were unique and some just outright ostentatious. While passerby could get a glimpse through the iron bars of all of the tombs, I thought it much better to see their beauty unobstructed.

These five funerary monuments celebrate the Scaliger family who ruled in Verona from the 13th to the late 14th century. Located in a wrought-iron fenced enclosure of the church of Santa Maria Antica, these Gothic tombs were constructed for the wealthy members of the noble Scaliger dynasty who ruled as the Lords of Verona; Cangrande I, Mastino II, Cansignorio, Alberto II and Giovanni.

The church was open and I was given a covering for my shoulders as I entered. The modest sanctuary was dimly lit and quiet and it didn’t appear that photographs were appreciated by the woman keeping a sharp eye on the visitors. While I was able to capture a couple undetected, as I was inspecting the 14th century frescoes in the central nave, I took a moment to nod my head in prayer before leaving.

Finally, next on the list was the famed Juliet’s House, a short walk away. As expected, after walking through the short corridor to the courtyard, I found it extremely crowded with other visitors. Everyone was jockeying for position and waiting for their chance to pose with the bronze statue of Juliet. Noting the balcony above, and those also posing there for photographs, I figured out which door to enter to pay my admission.

Inside, there were statues paying homage to Shakespeare, another bronze statue of Juliet, period furniture and the bed and Renaissance costumes from Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 film version of Romeo and Juliet. The wooden floors and artfully decorated ceilings were extremely cozy, although very roomy, depicting the wealth of the Capello family (from which the name Capulet was derived). Eventually, I was able to step out onto the balcony and also pose for a photo, but I was interested to find that even though the house dates back to 13th century, the balcony was only added during the 20th century.

On my way out, I noticed the red mailbox, which collects the letters “to Juliet” from visitors. Remembering the 2010 movie Letters to Juliet, I smiled at the messages visible in the small window in the center, glancing around, wondering where the women who volunteer to answer them were.

Just up the road, I happened upon Porta Leoni, the ancient gate that was built during the Roman Republic and features a double façade and two towers. Adjacent, below the street level are amazing Roman excavations.

The afternoon was dwindling away and although I had seen so much during my afternoon visit to Verona, I still wanted to see the amphitheater. Deciding to walk along the river in order to make navigation back to Corso Porta Nuova a little easier, I was stopped in my tracks by an imposing church on the corner.

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore.

Oh, I was here and I couldn’t resist, so I went in, hoping I had enough time for everything else on my list…namely the amphitheater. The church was still open and I paid my admission, following the handout offered to me, which guided me to both the Upper and Lower churches.

Starting with the Lower church, I traversed the ancient staircase to reach the first and oldest cloister of the complex. Here, I marveled at the decorated ribbed vaults and frescoed columns which divided the space. Of particular note was the early 14th century fresco depicting the Virgin seated on a throne with baby Jesus and a 12th century fresco of the Baptism of Jesus. There is a tombstone of jurist Antonio Pelacani, who died in 1327, showing him teaching his students and another of scholar Master Omobono, built in 1330. In the presbytery, there is a wooden crucifix from the 14th century and in the right transept, the stone upon which saints Fermo and Rustico were beheaded.

Back upstairs in the Upper church, I found it to be a massive and towering space. Again, crumbling frescoes decorated the walls and a large wooden door was topped with a fresco of the Crucifixion of Christ. The single nave church contained five apses and of particular interest was the Della Torre altar, from the 18th century, Our Lady’s Chapel (1613), which contains a some significant paintings and the presbytery with its marble altar, created by Schiavi, on which the relics of Saints Fermo and Rustico are kept.

There were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel. Upper ChurchThere were many tourists here and there was so much to see in the Upper Church that I spent much more time here than I had anticipated. As I finally exited San Fermo, I regained my routing along the river to head back toward the center of the city where the amphitheater was located. Taking much longer than I had anticipated, along with the heat of the afternoon slowing me down, I realized that I had maybe need to check the train schedule. I was still a ways from the train station and just over an hour away from Venice. As I realized that if I didn’t make the next train, I would be arriving into the Mestre station pretty late and I still needed to keep in mind dinner and the 20 minute walk back to my hotel.

Sadly, I had saved the amphitheater for last and it was not meant to be.

This time…

With so much to see in Verona, I was impressed with what I had undertaken and experience in a single afternoon. As there is much more enjoy in Verona, I realized that I would definitely return in the near future.

Pulling my KN95 mask from my bag…it was time to make that train.

.For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castelvecchio Museum

https://museodicastelvecchio.comune.verona.it/nqcontent.cfm?a_id=42545
Address: Corso Castelvecchio, 2, Verona, Italy
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000 to1800. Last entrance at 1715. Closed Mondays, December 24, January 1.
Admission: Adults, €6.00 (+ €.60 online presale), Children (ages 8-14 years), €1.00 (+€.10 online presale). Free admission for residents of 65 years in the Municipality of Verona, persons with disabilities and their companion, children up to 7 years, holders of the VeronaCard.

Arco dei Gavi

https://www.verona.in/verona/what-to-see/details/arco-dei-gavi
Address: Corso Cavour, 2, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Basilica di San Lorenzo

https://verona.com/it/verona/chiesa-di-san-lorenzo/
- Address: Corso Cavour, 28, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
- Hours: 0900-1200 and 1500-1700
  - Admission: free

Porta Borsari

Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 57A, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Chiesa di San Giovanni in Foro

Address: Corso Porta Borsari, 20, 37121 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: hours unknown
Admission: free

Piazza delle Erbe

https://verona.com/en/verona/piazza-delle-erbe/
Address: Piazza delle Erbe, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 0730-2030, daily
Admission: free

Scaliger Tombs

Address: Via San M. Antica 1, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: unknown
Admission: €3 (unverified)

Juliet’s House

https://verona.com/en/verona/casa-di-giulietta/
Address: Via Cappello, 23, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 0900-1900, daily
Admission: Adults, €6

Porta Leoni

Address: Via Leoni, 37100 Verona VR, Italy
Hours: 24 hours daily
Admission: free

Chiesa di San Fermo Maggiore

https://www.chieseverona.it/it/le-chiese/la-chiesa-di-san-fermo
Address: Corte S. Elena, Piazza Duomo 35, 37121, Verona VR, Italy
Hours: Monday to Friday, 1100-1800, Saturday, 0930-1800, Sunday, 1300-1800
Admission: Single entry €4. Entry to four churches, San Fermo, San Zeno, Cathedral Complex and Santa Anastasia, Basilica of San Zeno, the Cathedral Complex, the Basilica of Santa Anastasia, €8

Strike Out

Italian train strikes…I hate them.

It always seems that they happen when I have plans to visit other towns in Italy. While they usually give plenty of notice, for some reason, I usually miss that information until I arrive at the train station and realize that something is amiss.

Last October, exactly that happened. Skipping my nap, I readied myself for my day trip to Vigevano, the city known for its shoemaking history. With my list of places I wanted to visit in hand, I arrived at Porta Genova train station, purchased my ticket and walked out to the platform to await my ride. My train was supposed to leave at 12:40, but the time had come and gone. As I began to study the departure board, a man began speaking to me in Italian. My confused look must have clued him in that I did not speak his language, so instead, he said, “Signora, no trains, no trains!”

WHAT? NO TRAINS?

Refusing to believe his revelation, I continued to wait, eventually realizing that not one train had traveled through the station. Trying to look up any bit of information on the internet, I had no success, even with attempting to find an alternate route, other than driving or walking.

Defeated, I realized that I needed to find an alternate plan for the day. “Okay, think…”, I said to myself. Realizing that I was near the Navigli Canal area, I decided to head that way.

It was a beautiful, fall afternoon, perfect for strolling along the waterway, so I attempted to enjoy my plan modifications…with a scoop of gelato to cheer me up! Having been in this area before, I decided to seek out more about what makes it special.

Until the nineteenth century, the Navigli canals were the port area of Milan allowing the reach of Lake Maggiore, Lake Como and Ticino. Consisting of two major canals, Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese, these canals were used to import the marble needed to construct the Duomo church.

Today, there are alternate methods of reaching other Italian cities and for receiving goods and merchandise, but the Navigli canals still play an important part in the Milanese daily life. An exciting place where locals and tourists alike meet to enjoy the lovely evenings while the evening light reflects on the waterways, many restaurants and bars are available to choose from. The last Sunday of the month also draws crowds for the Vintage Market, which hosts exhibitors from all over Lombardy selling an odd assortment of goods.

It wasn’t Sunday and it wasn’t quite happy hour yet, so I opted to analyze every shop, alleyway and piece of architecture along the way. Not long after I began my explorations, I stumbled upon something interesting. What appeared to be an awning covering a small stream, I learned was the Vicolo Lavandai, the former laundromat, dating back to the last century. One would expect that it was the meeting place of women, however, it is interesting to note that in fact, it was the men who did the washing here. The small stream was fed by the Naviglio Grande and on wooden boards, also known as brellins, they scrubbed their clothing items. These men created their own trade association in 1700, the Confraternita dei Lavandai which had St. Anthony of Padua as its patron saint and it was to him that they dedicated the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie al Naviglio.

This church was where I headed next, a short distance down the canal.

Santa Maria delle Grazie al Naviglio, had its humble beginnings on the left bank of the Naviglio Grande in the sixteenth century with a chapel built to house an image of the Madonna. The chapel was eventually demolished and a larger Baroque church was built in its place, being devastated by fire in 1719 and then restored. At the end of the 19th century, the church, deemed to small for the growing parish, was demolished and replaced with a larger one in 1909…the current church.

The exterior was a bit confusing for me as it did not look like many of the Italian churches I had visited. In fact, it did not really appear to be a church at all remaining largely unfinished. I entered the portal set in its rough brick façade and took a look around, still not convinced that it was a church that I was setting foot in.

Glancing around, I noticed that the church’s neo-Romanesque interior contained three naves covered by a barrel vault. As I made my way down the main aisle, I admired the afternoon light filtering in through the stained glass windows established throughout the church. Two bronze pulpits and two additional altars flanked the main altar. These altars were crowned by stained glass windows depicting the Cross and the Madonna. The altar on the left was formerly the main altar and contained a statue of the Pietà which was originally housed in the previous church. The right altar is dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua, the protector of the nearby laundrymen. The highlight, however, was the neo-Gothic high altar which showcased a beautiful temple containing a bas-relief of God the Father Blessing.

*Altars dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua and the Pieta*

Making my way through the church’s interior, I was continually drawn to the rich stained glass windows and the church’s clean lines. Stopping in the baptistery, I admired the stunning fresco of Jesus’ baptism by John the Baptist.

The cafes were starting to attract a few patrons interested in cappuccinos and stronger concoctions. As tempting as a nice, chilled Nastro Azzurro sounded at that moment, I decided to make my way to one other place.

Passing the Church of San Gottardo al Corso and Porta Ticinese, the former city gate of Milan, I snapped a few photographs of each, but with neither being my intended destination, I continued on.

Finally, I made it to the place that had been on my list of things to see in Milan for some time…Basilica di Sant’ Eustorgio or more specifically, the Museum of Sant’Eustorgio and the Portineri Chapel.

Walking through the cloister, I made my way to the entrance to the museum. Here, I paid my entrance and began my self-guided tour through the museum. After St. Ambrogio, the 4th century Saint Eustorgio is one of the most noteworthy medieval structures in the city and stands on the ruins of an Early Christian Necropolis. It houses the famous Portinari chapel as well as numerous artworks of different nature.

*Remains of Early Christian Neocropolis*

Moving from the southern portico of the first cloister to the remains of the early Christian necropolis, I admired the frescoes that decorated the walls of this area. Heading then to the former chapter house of the primitive Dominican monastery and then the monumental sacristy, I inspected the large collection of relics, liturgical objects, vessels and reliquaries that were exhibited in the walnut cabinets. While the collection is vast, many which were referred to in the archives, have been lost over the years.

Continuing on to the sunlit Solarian Chapel with its black and white floors, I stopped for a moment to appreciate its simplistic style. Turning and navigating the hall on the left, I then found myself in the famous Portinari Chapel.

Commenced in 1460 and completed in 1468, this jewel of the church, created in the Renaissance style, is absolutely breathtaking. With walls decorated with frescos by Vincenzo Foppa and a multi-hued dome, it contains the relic head of St. Peter of Verona, to whom the chapel is consecrated. Originally slated to function as both a family chapel and mortuary, the marble sepulchre of Peter of Verona was moved from the basilica into the chapel in 1736. A marble altar was erected in front of it, on which was place a silver shrine containing the saint’s head. In the 1880’s the sepulchre was placed off center in the chapel to be better illuminated and the shrine containing the head was moved to a small adjacent chapel. The chapel also includes a number of paintings by undisclosed Lombard artists including frescoes such as the Miracolo della nuvola e Miracolo della falsa Madonna, and a depiction of the martyrdom of St. Peter Martyr.

Finally, I made my way to the dimly lit basilica which was once an important stop for pilgrims on their journey to the Holy Land because it was said to contain the tomb of the Three Magi.

Founded around the 4th century, it was named after Eustorgius I, the Bishop of Milan. In the 12th century the revered relics of the Magi were taken to Cologne, Germany and it wasn’t until the beginning of the 20th century that fragments of the bones and garments were returned to Sant’Eustorgio. Today, they are in the Three Kings altar.

On the right side of the church there are chapels commissioned from the 14th century onwards by Milan’s prestigious families each contain important frescoes and tombs. The high altar offers an imposing marble polytypch from the 15th century and other important works by Ambrogio Figinia can be found in the church.

As I exited the church, I took a few moments to analyze its more modern exterior, dating back to the 19th century. What is interesting to note is that the belltower is topped with a star instead of a traditional cross, giving homage to the Three Magi.

As my day was coming to a close, I took a seat at the restaurant I chose along the Navigli Grande. Reflecting on the turn of events due to the train strike, I was sad that I wasn’t able to stay with my plan of visiting Vigevano. Yes, I struck out!

But…that didn’t mean that I lost the game. With some quick thinking, I was able to salvage the day and see some amazing sights within the city. And Milan is full of them!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Vicolo Lavandai

Address: Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 14, 20144 Milano MI, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie al Naviglio

Address: Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 34, 20144 Milano MI, Italy
Hours: unknown
Admission: free

Church of Saint Gotthard al Corso

Address: Corso S. Gottardo, 6, 20136, Milano MI, Italy
Hours: unknown
Admission: free

Porta Ticinese

Address: Piazza Ventiquattro Maggio, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Basilica di Sant’ Eustorgio

http://www.santeustorgio.it/ http://www.museosanteustorgio.it/en/home-eng/
Address: Piazza Sant’Eustorgio, 1, 20122 Milano, MI, Italy
Hours: Church, daily, 0745-1200 and 1530-1830. Museum of Sant’ Eustorgio, Monday, closed. Tuesday to Sunday, 1000-1800.
Admission: Adults, €6,00, Children (ages 6-18), €4,00, Children (under 6), free.
Getting There: From Piazza Duomo (MM1 and MM3) with Tram 3. Trams 9 and 10 (Piazza XXIV Maggio stop) and from Piazza Sant’Ambrogio (MM2) with bus 94 (DeAmicis-C.so Porta Ticinese stop).

Look Out Lodi, Here We Come!

Traveling with my friend Cristina is always a treat…she’s one of those few people that I can plan a trip with and expect to see everything that the city has to offer. She has as much energy as I do and always has an idea for something fun! Together, we are a traveling force to be reckoned with!

Last fall, while working a trip to Milan, we decided that we should take a day trip to a neighboring city. Scouring the map, we looked for cities that were an hour or an hour and a half away and that offered numerous sites and a city center with easy access to the train station.

Stumbling upon a cool little video about the city of Lodi, we decided that this would be our destination. With only a thirty-minute train ride (a bonus!), a beautiful Piazza and plenty of churches, it looked like there would be plenty to keep us occupied that afternoon.

Heading to Milan’s Centrale Station, we hopped on a train and struck up conversation with a young woman heading toward Bologna. She had been to Lodi and insisted that we would enjoy our excursion, especially since it was one of those no-cloud-in-the-sky warm fall afternoons.

Thirty minutes later, bidding our new friend Arrivederci, we jumped off the train and made our way toward the city center. Spying some unique architecture and passing through Passeggio Federico I Park and its many monuments, we happened upon the Porta Cremona, a monumental gate which also pays tribute to the fallen of the Great War fought in Lodi, Italy.

Gazing wistfully at the locked Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, we continued on knowing that there was much that awaited us only a few blocks away.

Heading north, we chatted as we passed numerous churches, intriguing alleyways and interesting art and architecture. Reaching the Napoleon Bonaparte bridge, which spans the Adda river, we stood on its pedestrian walkway gazing out at its muddy waters and the beautiful villas lining its banks. This bridge played an important role in the Battle of Lodi, during the French Revolutionary War, on May 10, 1796, when the French forces, under Napoleon’s rule, went head-to-head with Austrian forces, led by Karl Philipp Sebottendorf. While Napoleon was successful in this campaign, it was not a decisive battle, but one that led Napoleon to believe that he was superior to other generals and destined to achieve great things. A couple blocks from the river we found an interesting statue of Napoleon Bonaparte and a commemorative plaque.

*Napoleon Bonaparte bridge, spanning the Adda river*

As we continued our walk, we discovered a quaint little courtyard filled with plates decorating the walls. Not sure if it was attached to an artist’s studio, it was fun looking at all the displays. There were lots of little shops and cafes along the way, many closed for a few hours in the afternoon, but the best one was Gelateria Umberto. Who can resist a couple of scoops of gelato in the afternoon? Not me!

Finally, we made it to the Piazza della Vittoria (Victory Square), where the Lodi Cathedral (Duomo) takes the center stage.

Founded in 1158, the cathedral was completed in two phases, the second, being carried on from 1170 and the façade being completed in 1284. The brick entrance that faces the Piazza is Gothic in style, however, the overall building is Romanesque with a massive bell tower which was left unfinished.

As we entered the massive church, the largest in northern Italy and seat of the Bishop of Lodi, we were amazed with how much there was to see within its walls. Looking down the nave toward the altar, there were two staircases on either side. At the back of the church there were multiple tombs and along each wall, multiple side chapels, the most impressive being a simple niche containing a 15^th century, full-size wooden depiction of Christ, his disciples and his blessed mother, Mary. The church is also connected on the left to the Bishop’s Palace and a court which is the remaining part of a cloister dating back to 1484.

Up the right-hand staircase, we found the entrance to the crypt, which features a 12^th century bas-relief and is the oldest section of the cathedral. In the center of the crypt is an altar dating back to 1856, which houses the remains of Saint Bassianus in a beautifully bedecked silver case. On the left-hand side of the high altar is the altar of Saint Alberto Quadrelli, Bishop of Lodi from 1168 to 1173.

*Court remains of 15th century cloister*

Once our explorations of the cathedral were complete, we headed back into the Piazza, formerly known as the Piazza Maggiore until 1924. The town hall is located here as well as the Vistarini Palace, one of the most beautiful in the city. Porticos which protect cafe tables from the sun and the elements, line the edges of the square and it is quite colorful and scenic. It is definitely the heart of the city today where the residents meet for conversation, children play games and the local market is held on Tuesdays and Thursdays in contrast to the fairs, festivals and executions which took place during Medieval times. As countless bishops have traversed the square over time, it even saw the arrival of Pope John Paul II in 1992.

Spying another tall bell tower down one of the streets branching off of the Piazza, we set off on foot attempting to find what lay beneath. While the church we found was closed, our curiosity led us to an even greater discovery, Il Templo dell’Incoronata.

At the end of the 15th century, a brothel with a painting of an image of the Virgin Mary was located in the area known today as via Incoronata. It is said that in September of 1487, the image of the Virgin Mary wept and called on those present to build a temple dedicated to her on that site…Tempio delle Incoronata or the Temple of the Crowned.

With the assistance of all citizens of Lodi, the Temple of the City was erected and became one of the most beautiful buildings of Renaissance Lombardy. Started in 1488 by Giovanni Battagio, a pupil of Bramante, it was completed in 1503, by Lorenzo Maggi, and a portico was added in the late 15^th century and the loggia in 1882. It was through two small doors in the portico that we entered, only because we were being nosy when we saw other tourists exit. Walking a short distance thru a small, dark hallway, our inquisitiveness was rewarded with one of the most spectacular church interiors that we had both ever laid eyes on.

The octagonal space was surrounded by arches on the lower level, an altar and an octagonally domed ceiling all highlighted by copious amounts of gilt. Every space not covered in gold was decorated with paintings, most completed by three generations of the Piazza family, who were founding the most prestigious painting school in Italy. It was almost indescribable! The only disappointing part was that we were not there on Sunday when the underground space below the monumental sacristy is open to the public. In this museum space, there are three different rooms housing rare and unique works of sacred art and objects attesting to the importance of the sanctuary.

Giddy with excitement, we headed back out into the city, taking a roundabout route back to the train station. Spotting the Church of San Lorenzo, we ducked inside, perhaps to say a few prayers for our expeditious return to Milan since we were hearing rumblings of a train strike.

The city’s oldest church, after the cathedral, was built in the 12th and 13th centuries. A typical Romanesque-style church, we noticed an image of Saint Lorenzo, above the altar, to whom the church is dedicated. There were several works of art within the church and beautiful architectural details including the apse above the choir with 16^th century stucco adornments by Abbondio da Ascona and a fresco of a Resurrected Christ by Callisto Piazza.

Glancing at our watches, we noted the time and set off once again, finding ourselves in the Piazza di Castello. The Visconti Castle spread out before us, including the Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi). The castle was founded in the 12th century by a member of the Visconti family, the Lord and Dukes of Milan who in the 13th and 14th centuries took possession of and then rebuilt the original fortification. In 1456, Francesco Sforza added a round tower to the northern corner of the castle which eventually (20^th century) was converted to a water tower. It has since become a landmark of Lodi greeting those who arrive into the city. Today, the castle is the seat of the Questura of Lodi, the local office of the Italian Ministry of the Interior. As we studied the exterior of the castle, we realized that we would have liked to have seen more of it, however, it is not open to the public and even if it had been, we had that train to catch!

*Visconti Castle and Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi)*

Walking quickly, we headed to the train station. Catching sight of the pink-hued building with its statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi, the city’s roller hockey team(yes, really…), and the time on the station’s clock, we knew that we had made it in time to get back to Milan for our dinner reservation!

*Lodi Train Station and statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi*

While Lodi had not been on our radar as one of the Italian cities we wanted to visit initially, we were so glad that we had found that video prior to our trip which was the inspiration for a wonderful day. Being so close to Milan was a bonus, but the biggest reward was the multitude of attractions that the city has to offer and getting to share it with my friend, Cristina!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram @snappingtheglobe.com.

Napoleon Bonaparte Bridge (Bridge of Lodi)

Address: Via X Maggio, 5, 26900 Lodi, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Lodi Cathedral (Duomo of Lodi)

http://Diocese.lodi.it
Address: Piazza della Vittoria, 4/10 26900 Lodi, Italy
Hours: 0730-1200 and 1530-1900, daily
Admission: free

Tempio dell’Incoronata

http://Incoronata.eu
Address: Via Incoronata, 23, 26900 Lodi, Italy
Hours: Monday, 0930-1230, Tuesday thru Friday, 0930-1230 and 1530-1800, Saturday and Sunday, 0930-1230 and 1500-1800
Mass Schedule: Weekday Mass, Sunday and holidays: 11.30 (visitors must leave the church ten minuts before the function).
Admission: free

Museo del Tesoro dell’Incoronata

http://Incoronata.eu
Address: Via Incoronata, 25 – 26900 Lodi
Hours: Sunday, 1500-1800
Admission: free
Booking is recommended for groups and school visits.

Church of San Lorenzo

Address: 9, Piazza S. Lorenzo, 9, 26900 Lodi, Italy
Hours: Unknown
Admission: free

Castle of Visconti and Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi)

Address: 26900, Lodi, Italy
Hours: 24 hours daily, viewed from exterior only
Admission: not open to the public

Back to Dubrovnik, Day Seven in Croatia

All good things must come to an end, but better things may be in store.

Our time exploring other parts of Croatia was complete, but we were leaving beautiful little Hvar Town, heading back to the beautiful city of Dubrovnik and now we knew what to expect. There were many things we wanted to do and see, including our new friend, Ivusa.

The ferry ride was a bit longer this time, but included a stop to pick up and deposit other passengers in Korčula. Since I was able to grab a spot on the back deck as we made our way to the dock, I had prime viewing of the beautiful old city. Why didn’t we spend a few days here? Definitely next time!

Four hours later, after our departure from Hvar, we were disembarking in Dubrovnik and catching a taxi to the Old Town. Our Airbnb, this time, was within the Old Town city walls…in fact, it was adjacent to Stradun, the city’s main pedestrian street, so a bit more convenient in that we didn’t have to climb twenty-two billion stairs!

After depositing our luggage in our room, we were off!

The Dominican Monastery, just around the corner, was first on our list. Dating back to the 14th century, the monastery is one of the most important architectural landmarks in the city and contains a great number of paintings, artifacts, jewelry and other items from Dubrovnik’s history. Its bell towers are prominent when walking the walls of the city, however, these not quite being as old as the monastery itself. Begun in the 16th century, they were only completed in the 18th.

Within the monastery, is the Gothic church of Saint Dominic, usually richly decorated and filled with treasures including the large golden crucifix above the main altar from the 14th century. Under construction at the time, we had to use our imaginations in order to “see” what it usually presents. The monastery museum was also quite intriguing with its vast jewelry collection and paintings from the Dubrovnik art school from the 15th and 16th centuries.

*Treasures from the Dominican Monastery Museum*

Making our way through the abbey, we noted the Capital Hall, where the monastic community held its meetings, and the porches of the cloister which were added in the 15th century. Within the cloister is a rich green oasis complete with a stone well crown and I would imagine this was a favorite place for the residents to relax and enjoy nature’s beauty.

After our visit was complete, we walked a short distance, past the clock tower, to the Church of St. Blaise. The steps of this church is both a meeting place, due to its central location near the clock tower, and a resting place, perfect for people watching. We also noticed that many from the community congregate here, including the children, who play games on the steps and in Luza Square in front of the church.

The interior of this church did not disappoint my “church fascination” with its beautifully decorated golden altar, taking my breath away when I entered. Named after the patron saint of Dubrovnik, the church was built in 1715, by Venetian architect and sculptor Marino Gropelli on the foundations of a past Romanesque medieval church. This saint is featured on the main altar in gilt silver, crafted in the 15th century by an unknown master. In the saint’s left hand is a scale model of the Romanesque church which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1667 and he is flanked by two kneeling angels. This statue was the only one which survived the fire of 1706.

In front of the church is another of Dubrovnik’s landmarks, Orlando’s column. Unfortunately, this was under renovation and closed off by metal fencing. This tall and slender stone flag column is decorated with a depiction of a medieval knight, Orlando, who according to legend, helped the people of old Dubrovnik defeat invaders in the middle ages. A monument to freedom, it details the help aquired to remain a free trade city-state and acts as a flag holder which displays the Libertas (freedom) flag as well as the St. Blaise festival flag. An interesting note about the statue; the knight’s forearm is 51.25 centimeters long, the standard Dubrovnik measurement for fabric, where local merchants were measuring, cutting and selling fabric.

*Orlando’s Column courtesy of justdubrovnik.com*

A little further down the Stradun, we headed into the Franciscan Church. Much as I wanted to visit the Monastery and Museum, I decided to wait until the next morning as I thought that seeing another monastery was probably not what my husband had in mind. The church was a good compromise as the afternoon was nearing its end and he was anxious to start happy hour and revisit Lady Pipi restaurant which was near this location.

A large complex, consisting of the church, monastery, library, and pharmacy, belonging to the Order of the Friars Minor, was built in 1317, but with its construction taking centuries to complete. The original church was destroyed in the earthquake of 1667 and much of the complex was rebuilt several times with the only remaining element being the decorated portal which overlooks the main street.

The Baroque interior was stunning as we entered through the main doors with its diagonally patterned tile floor and and large, gilded chandelier. The main altar contained a statue of Christ between four twisted marble columns and the five side altars were sculpted by Venetian Giuseppe Sardi between 1684 and 1696. An important side note, we learned, is that poet Ivan Gundulić is buried in the church.

Continuing our explorations, we decided to see more of what lay beyond the gates. A short walk past the Pile Gate, through which we had entered earlier on our return, brought us past the Amerling Fountain, the overlook for the Beach Sulic, which we would later realize was the place Cersei Lannister on Game of Thrones would stand, the Imperial Hilton Hotel and almost to the Church of St. Elizabeth, a small chapel. Heading back to the Old Town, we wandered through its streets and alleyways appreciating the architecture and its beauty.

At this point, my husband was truly at the end of his touring mode…but I spotted the Church of the Holy Annunciation. Promising only a quick peek, I ducked in and inspected the Serbian Orthodox church which was constructed in 1887. Though I was only inside for a few moments, I learned later that this impressive church has a huge collection of icons dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries within its museum and an impressive library containing over 12,000 volumes, including a gospel in Russian printed in Moscow in 1805.

Finally, it was time for the long walk up the stairs for our grilled seafood platter “A La Pipi”!

“It’s about time!” said my husband. Long days definitely lead to good things!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Krilo Ferry

https://www.krilo.hr › en

Martecchini Airbnb Apartment

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/50272540?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=c510d4a5-f5a8-4855-9be3-9af683ff60c8
Address: Kovačka ulica 2, Dubrovnik, Dubrovačko-neretvanska županija 20000, Croatia

Dominican Monastery

https://www.dubrovnikcity.com/dubrovnik/attractions/dominican_monastery.htm
Address: Ul. Svetog Dominika 4, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: Adults, 30KN, Children, 20KN

Franciscan Church

Address: 4 Poljana Paska Milicevica, Dubrovnik, HR 20000
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: free

Church of the Holy Annunciation

Address: Od Pucha 8, Dubrovnik 20000 Croatia
Hours: 0900-1600, daily
Admission: free

The Compact Chapel

Deep in the heart of San Juan’s Old Town, there are about a dozen churches scattered throughout. For church fanatics like me, it is a dream come true! Many are decently sized, but there is a compact one, a chapel, built on the city’s ancient stone walls.

One of the most photographed, the tiny Capilla del Santo Cristo de la Salud is located at the south end of Calle del Cristo. Constructed in 1753, the chapel is oft visited by locals and tourists alike and sits beside the Parque de Palomas, a gated park overlooking San Juan Harbor.

Many times, I have visited Old Town and walked past the chapel never to find it open. On this particular Sunday, however, luck was on my side as I learned it is only open on Sundays and particular holy days.

Legend has it that many years ago, there were horse races on Calle del Cristo. One of the riders, Baltazar Montanez, was galloping through the city at such a breakneck speed, he could not stop in time and tumbled over the city wall to his death. To commemorate his demise and prevent a similar occurrence, the chapel was built on the site.

Little did anyone realize how many visitors would descend upon the Chapel of the Holy Christ of Health to pray for cures and miracles. Tens of thousands come to the site, which contains a silver and gold leaf altar surrounded by oil paintings by Puerto Rican artist Jose Campeche and tiny silver milagros, which represent ailing parts of the body. But it is not just those of human form who come…there are hundreds of pigeons who descend upon its roof and front plaza!

The church is cared for by a group of local women, volunteers called “La Hermandad del Santo Cristo de la Salud” and you can care for the pigeons on your visit with birdseed available for purchase!

Truly one of the religious gems of the Old Town!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Capilla del Santo Cristo de la Salud (Chapel of the Holy Christ of Health)

https://www.discoverpuertorico.com/
Address: 1 Calle del Cristo, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
Hours: Saturday, 1200-1800 (unverified), Sunday, 1200-1800
Admission: free

The Churches of St. Augustine

As I hopped on the St. Augustine’s Old Town Trolley to begin my tour of the city, I was excited for the frequent stops and to see many of the historic churches scattered throughout the city. Many of these churches were not open, however, being able to gaze upon the architecture of these sanctuaries was worth the ride.

Grace United Methodist Church, located on Carrera Street, looked a little familiar…not because I had been there before, but because it had the same appearance as the Ponce de Leon Hotel. Indeed, Henry Flagler built the church in 1887 in the Spanish Renaissance Revival style, using the same builders and architects of the historic hotel. The church was built to replace the wood-constructed Olivet Methodist Church, which stood on the site Flagler wanted for the up-coming Alcazar Hotel and it was donated to the people of the city. It is currently listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.

A little further down the street, I found the Ancient City Baptist Church. Though not as ornate as Grace United, it offered a rather stately appearance on the corner of Carrera and Sevilla Streets. Dating back to 1887, the church was finally built in 1894, when Henry Flagler offered the charter members a parcel of land at no charge but with a few stipulations…the property could not be mortgaged, a bell could not be placed in the tower and the building had to be completed within two years. The Romanesque Revival church was completed after a year’s time and has served the community ever since.

Heading down a block south, I found a magnificent piece of architecture, the Memorial Presbyterian Church. Now, if I found Grace United to be familiar, I most certainly felt some deja vu when I stood in the front of this church. Florida’s first and oldest Presbyterian congregation, Memorial was established in June 1824, completed in 1890 and also designed in the Spanish Renaissance Revival style. What made it so familiar to me, however, was that I have a visited a famous church much like it…in Venice, Italy. Memorial Presbyterian Church was based on the Basilica of St. Mark and also built by the architects of the Ponce de Leon hotel by Henry Flagler. I would have loved to have seen its interior, but due to restrictions, it was not open at the time. I contented myself with a walk around the grounds, admiring each and every angle of this prestigious sanctuary.

As I finally made my way to Plaza de la Constitution, I came upon the petite Trinity Parish Episcopal Church. This church was also not open, but it made for a beautiful photo subject situated on the square on the corner of King and Saint George Streets. The church building was completed in 1831, is the oldest Protestant church in Florida and is known for having some of the oldest and most beautiful stained glass windows in the Episcopal Diocese of Florida.

At long last, I made my way across the plaza to the church that I most wanted to see, the Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine. Thankfully arriving during its limited opening hours, I was able to inspect both the exterior the interior of Cathedral. Built in the Spanish Mission style (appropriating from St. Augustine’s inception) it is the oldest Catholic Church in the city and the seat of the Bishop of the Diocese of St. Augustine. First established in 1565, the church was built during the years of 1793 to 1797 and designated a U.S. National Historic Landmark. It is the oldest Christian congregation in the contiguous United States.

As I walked throughout the structure, I admired the burnt orange ceiling with its darkened wood trusses. Exquisite murals lined the walls depicting scenes from the history of the Catholic Church in the development of the New World and scenes from the life of Saint Augustine of Hippo. The stained glass windows were exquisite and allowed a filtering of light which highlighted the gold leafed statuary on the main altar and the orange and blue tile floor was extraordinary. One of the most unique cathedrals I have ever set foot in, I felt as though I should be in another country.

Hopping back on the Old Town Trolley, I finally set my sights on some of the other historical structures of the city.

Prayer time was over…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Grace United Methodist Church

https://gracestaugustine.org
Address: 8 Carrera St, St. Augustine, Florida 32084-3622
Hours: Tours of sanctuary from 1300-1500, most weekday afternoons
Admission: Free

Ancient City Baptist Church

https://ancientcitybaptist.org/
Address: 27 Sevilla Street, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084
Hours: Unknown
Admission: Free

Memorial Presbyterian Church

https://memorialpcusa.org/
Address: 32 Sevilla Street, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084
Hours: Visitors are welcome to take a self-guided tour of the church from 1100-1545, Monday through Saturday.
Admission: Free

Trinity Episcopal Church

https://trinitysta.org
Address: 215 St George St, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084, United States
Hours: Unknown
Admission: Free

Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine

https://www.dosafl.com/parish/cathedral-basilica-of-st-augustine/
Address: 38 Cathedral Place, St. Augustine, FL 32084
Hours: Monday-Friday, 1000-1500
Admission: Free
Mass Schedule: Monday-Friday, 0700, Saturday, 0700 and 1700, Sunday, 0700, 0900 1100, 1700.

The Icing On the Cake

My husband likes to go to church.

For mass.

He just doesn’t like visiting them as a tourist. In fact, he feels like it’s an intrusion and a bit disrespectful.

Good Catholic guilt.

On the other hand, there is me. Raised as a Catholic and no stranger to my own religion’s institutions, there is a great admiration for architectural elements, decorative features and their history of all churches. As I walk through and examine each interior, I always think of others. Everyone should see this! I guess my love for spreading how remarkable these temples are, outweighs my Catholic guilt. Imagining that my blog posts and pictures might inspire one person to venture into a church out of curiosity, might inspire them to stay…for good…no matter the religion.

While in Bruges, there were many churches that I would have loved to investigate. I knew that getting my husband to see one church during our short visit was probable. Two…slim. Three…not going to happen, especially when there was so many other things to see.

Having already visited the Basilica of the Holy Blood, I stared wistfully at each church that we passed, wondering what lay inside. As we made our way through the main square, in the waning light, we stopped inside a few chocolaterias, searching for decadent souvenirs.

As we headed in the direction of the train station, I spied the tower of Saint Salvator Cathedral (Sint-Salvatorskathedraal) ahead on the right. Realizing that it was the end of the day, I consoled myself with the knowledge that it was probably already closed.

Surprisingly, as I stopped to take a picture of the exterior, my husband suggested that we see if it was still open…

It was!

Saint Salvator’s, the main church of the city, was originally built during the 10th century as a parish church in the shadow of St. Donatian’s Cathedral. St. Donatian’s was located opposite the city hall and was the religious heart of the community, but was destroyed by fire in 1116. A new church was constructed in 1127 and a century later, the lengthy construction of the present church was begun only to be destroyed by the French occupiers of Bruges in the 18th century.

After Belgium obtained its independence in 1830, Saint Salvator was given the status of cathedral and became the main church of the Catholic population. Because of its smaller size, however, renovations were required to elevate it to its higher status and one of the main features is its tall tower dating from the 12th century which outshines the nearby Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk, the Church of Our Lady.

Entering the cathedral, we made our way throughout the ornate interior, noting some of the exquisite furnishings. There are many works of art originally stored in Saint Donatian’s cathedral and original paintings that the wall carpets (that can be viewed at the entrance) were modeled on and originally commissioned for Saint Donatian’s.

Some of its other treasures include its organ which was completed in 1719 and expanded and rebuilt three times in the 20th century. In the choir, the original 16th century podium can be regarded as well as a baroque fence made by Artus Quellinus the Younger.

Inside the cathedral’s south transept, there is the church Treasury which displays jewelry, reliquaries and objects used in religious services, however, in the interest of time, we were unable to visit. Before our exit, however, we did take note in the front of the church, the medieval tombs that were unearthed during renovations during 1989-1993. These 14th century tombs are covered in plexiglass and brightly painted in the style that was typical of Flanders in that period.

As we stepped out into the evening to make our way back to the train station, I glanced back at the soaring tower of the church. With all that we had seen in the city, being able to sneak in a visit to the Cathedral was icing on the cake!

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Cathedral of Bruges (Saint Salvatore’s Cathedral)

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/sint-salvatorskathedraal-saint-saviours-cathedral
Address: Sint-Salvatorskoorstraat 8, 8000 Bruges
Hours: Monday-Friday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1730. Saturday, 1000-1300 and 1400-1530. Sunday, 1130-1200 and 1400-1700. January 1, May 21, December 24-25, 1000-1300.
Admission: free

The Most Holy Relic

Burg Square in Bruges is certainly on any tourists’ agenda with its spectacularly adorned buildings that circumscribe the plaza. In the 9th century, Burg Square became the base of operations for the Count of Flanders and the buildings were occupied by the courts of law for nearly 200 years. Here, you can still find the 14th century City Hall, the old Court of Justice built in the Renaissance style and the Basilica of the Holy Blood.

Did someone say Basilica?

If I had to choose only one church to visit in Bruges, it was definitely going to be this one that features one of the most holy relics…that of Jesus Christ’s blood.

Actually consisting of two churches, dedicated to Our Lady and to Saint Basil, the structure, located in the corner of Burg Square, dates back to the 12th century when it was the chapel of the residence of the Count of Flanders.

As we stood in the square, I was dumbfounded by the resplendent architecture rising boastfully before us. Finally turning our attention to the flamboyant staircase that leads to the upper basilica, we excitedly climbed to the apex and tried the door, anxious to see what lay inside. Frustrated, we found the door to be locked. Searching out the signboard, we discovered that the basilica is closed during the mid-day hours.

Returning later, we once again ascended the steps to the entryway and thankfully, found the door unlocked and we entered the topmost of the two chapels that make up the Basilica.

Decorated in the neo-Gothic style, we discovered it to be dimly lit but exceptionally ornamented. My eyes were first drawn to the beautifully colored stain glass windows and then the altar, which disappointingly, was under renovation, its view consumed by scaffolding. Nevertheless, I thought it to be quite breathtaking. My attention was then drawn to the side chapel where a priest was standing behind an altar. A line had formed at the rear of the church leading to the altar and on it, I realized was the relic of the Holy Blood of Jesus Christ.

This sacred relic is said to be the blood of Jesus Christ on a cloth that was used to wipe his body by Joseph of Arimathea after the Crucifixion. The relic was given to the Count of Flanders, Diederik van de Elzas, by the King of Jerusalem after the Second Crusade. The Count took the relic from the Holy Land to Bruges, arriving on April 7, 1150 and placed it in the chapel. The relic is preserved in a rock crystal vial which is placed in a small glass cylinder capped with a golden crown at each end. The relic is kept in an imposing silver tabernacle with a sculpture of the Lamb of God.

Because we were not sure of the proper protocol, we sat for a few moments and observed the actions of the other visitors. Finally, we stepped up onto the altar, deposited an offering and laid our eyes on the sacred artifact. Our veneration was short and sweet and we walked away with our belief in the validity of the object.

Taking one last look around, we made our way to the Museum which houses the treasury. There are many interesting objects on display that are tied to the history of the chapel or the relic including the Shrine of the Precious Blood, golden statues representing Christ the Savior, The Virgin, St. Donatian and St. Basil and a small silver crown which belonged to Mary of Burgundy. Paintings include the Scenes of the Life of St. Barbara (around 1480) by the Master of the Barbara Legend, The Burial of Christ (1519), a triptych attributed to the Master of the Precious Blood, Christ Bearing the Cross, another triptych, His Being Speared and His Resurrection (16th century) and two panels painted in 1556 by Peter Pourbus entitled the 31 Members of the Noble Brotherhood of the Holy Blood. There are also six medallions carved in oak which represent scenes of Christ’s life, and a large tapestry which dates back to 1637 that depicts the transfer of the relics of St. Augustine from Africa to Sardinia.

Making our way back down the staircase, we found the second part of the church, the Romanesque Chapel of St. Basil. It was such a contrast, stepping inside this chapel, as it couldn’t be more different than what we had just visited. While the Chapel of the Holy Blood was ornate and blossoming with color, the Chapel of St. Basil was very austere and dark. The only Romanesque church in West Flanders, it dates back to the first half of the 12th century. Established by Derrick, Count of Alsace, it was dedicated to St. Basil the Great and constructed to house his relic brought from Caesarea during the Crusades. This relic, along with the relic of Charles the Good, can be found at the left of the choir in the chapel of Saint Yves. The chapel is small and feels extremely closed in with its low vaulted ceiling and brick archways, but there is something extremely important in the right aisle. A wooden statue of the Madonna and Child dates back to 1306 and is the central focus of the procession along with the relic of the Holy Blood, held each year during on Ascension Day in the city. During the procession, the bishop of Bruges carries the relic of the Holy Blood through the streets, accompanied by the Madonna and Child statue and costumed residents dramatizing biblical scenes. Two additional statues, Jesus on the Cold Stone and the Pieta are also carried in the procession. This cavalcade dates back to 1291 and still follows the route established in 1578 when it was changed due to the religious wars.

Having seen pictures of the religious procession, it reminded me of the processions I witnessed last year in Guatemala, yet more festive, and I made a mental note to mark my calendar for the next year’s events.

Both chapels contain many treasures, but the sacred relic is truly the treasure of Bruges.

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Basilica of the Holy Blood

http://www.holyblood.com/?lang=en
Address: Basilica of the Holy Blood Burg 13, 8000 Bruges
Hours: 0930-1230 and 1400-1730, daily. Closed January 1 and January 13-January 18.
Mass Times: Daily, also on Sunday and Holy Days, at 1100 except Monday.
Veneration of the Holy Blood relic: Every morning 1130 till 1200 and every afternoon from 1400-1600. Fridays and Sundays after 1100 Mass.
Admission: Basilica and Chapel, free. Treasury/Museum, €2,50

Burg Square

https://www.visitbruges.be/highlights/burg
Address: Hoogstraat and Breidelstraat, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Not A Plain Jain

No discriminating religious institution visitor here!

Churches, temples, synagogues, mosques, chapels, basilicas, monasteries, convents…you name it! They are all on my visitation list when exploring a new city.

When we set out for our day in Mumbai, I had a loose plan. I knew that if we encountered any temples or churches, I would want to visit, however, I didn’t have any particular one in mind.

“Abdul…can we visit a temple?” (as our day came to a close…)

Abdul navigated his way through the streets of Mumbai and before long, we pulled over to the side of the street. He showed us the entrance to the Jain Temple Mumbai (also known as the Babu Amichand Panalal Adishwarji Jain Temple) and told us that he would park further down the street and wait for us.

Not sure what was in store for us, we cautiously entered the front gates and were immediately confronted with the rules of the temple. Some were incredibly interesting!

When I began to glance at the temple and its surroundings, I was extremely excited to explore it further. The temple is very interesting in that the entire premises is covered by a high roof that allows light to enter and which I also assume protects the decorated temple from the elements. The Jain Temple Mumbai is a place of religious significance and was built more than a century ago in 1904. The shrine is dedicated to Adishwara, the founder of Jainism and is the largest of the Jain temples in the city.

Ditching my sandals, I approached the temple and was stunned by its unique architecture and beauty. I was awed at the two stone elephants that greeted me at the stairway and the ornate archways and pillars that lured me further inside. Admittedly, I was a bit apprehensive about stepping inside and taking photos, but no one seemed to pay me any attention as they went about their business.

As I made my way throughout the temple, I discovered colorful sculptures and columns decorated with multi-hued and intricately carved flowers, marble floors and detailed paintings. As I glanced upward, I marveled at an amazing domed ceiling bedecked with symbols of the zodiac.

There were many worshipers, each paying their respects to the twenty-four tirthankaras and idols that could be found in the small alcoves. What I found most interesting, however, was a statue that a group of women were painstakingly changing. There were metal pieces, sort of like a coat of armor, that they were switching out to give the statue a different look. Was this Adishwara? Sadly, I never discovered the answer.

At the time, I didn’t know much about this religion, however, I later learned from Abdul, that the Jains are peace loving people who maintain their principles and avoid violence, most not even willing to kill an insect. They take great pride in and contribute greatly to the maintenance of their temples.

Having been to many different temples in throughout the world, I knew that I would see something different here in Mumbai. How ornate and elaborate it was, however, was a surprise to me and I loved the unique elegance of this place. It was no surprise to learn that this particular temple is renowned among the Jains for its unsurpassed beauty. Also, my visit left me wondering how I never knew this religion to exist. I am a well traveled person and am familiar with many religions and cultures yet, this one escaped me. Nonetheless, I was extremely grateful to be allowed to visit and learn something new and valuable.

Thank you Abdul!

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Chandabala Jain Temple

Address: 41 Walkeshwar Ridge Road, Malabar Hill, Mumbai
Hours: 0500-2100, daily
Admission: free