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Burg Square in Bruges is certainly on any tourists’ agenda with its spectacularly adorned buildings that circumscribe the plaza. In the 9th century, Burg Square became the base of operations for the Count of Flanders and the buildings were occupied by the courts of law for nearly 200 years. Here, you can still find the 14th century City Hall, the old Court of Justice built in the Renaissance style and the Basilica of the Holy Blood.
Did someone say Basilica?
If I had to choose only one church to visit in Bruges, it was definitely going to be this one that features one of the most holy relics…that of Jesus Christ’s blood.
Actually consisting of two churches, dedicated to Our Lady and to Saint Basil, the structure, located in the corner of Burg Square, dates back to the 12th century when it was the chapel of the residence of the Count of Flanders.
As we stood in the square, I was dumbfounded by the resplendent architecture rising boastfully before us. Finally turning our attention to the flamboyant staircase that leads to the upper basilica, we excitedly climbed to the apex and tried the door, anxious to see what lay inside. Frustrated, we found the door to be locked. Searching out the signboard, we discovered that the basilica is closed during the mid-day hours.
Returning later, we once again ascended the steps to the entryway and thankfully, found the door unlocked and we entered the topmost of the two chapels that make up the Basilica.
Decorated in the neo-Gothic style, we discovered it to be dimly lit but exceptionally ornamented. My eyes were first drawn to the beautifully colored stain glass windows and then the altar, which disappointingly, was under renovation, its view consumed by scaffolding. Nevertheless, I thought it to be quite breathtaking. My attention was then drawn to the side chapel where a priest was standing behind an altar. A line had formed at the rear of the church leading to the altar and on it, I realized was the relic of the Holy Blood of Jesus Christ.
This sacred relic is said to be the blood of Jesus Christ on a cloth that was used to wipe his body by Joseph of Arimathea after the Crucifixion. The relic was given to the Count of Flanders, Diederik van de Elzas, by the King of Jerusalem after the Second Crusade. The Count took the relic from the Holy Land to Bruges, arriving on April 7, 1150 and placed it in the chapel. The relic is preserved in a rock crystal vial which is placed in a small glass cylinder capped with a golden crown at each end. The relic is kept in an imposing silver tabernacle with a sculpture of the Lamb of God.
Because we were not sure of the proper protocol, we sat for a few moments and observed the actions of the other visitors. Finally, we stepped up onto the altar, deposited an offering and laid our eyes on the sacred artifact. Our veneration was short and sweet and we walked away with our belief in the validity of the object.
Taking one last look around, we made our way to the Museum which houses the treasury. There are many interesting objects on display that are tied to the history of the chapel or the relic including the Shrine of the Precious Blood, golden statues representing Christ the Savior, The Virgin, St. Donatian and St. Basil and a small silver crown which belonged to Mary of Burgundy. Paintings include the Scenes of the Life of St. Barbara (around 1480) by the Master of the Barbara Legend, The Burial of Christ (1519), a triptych attributed to the Master of the Precious Blood, Christ Bearing the Cross, another triptych, His Being Speared and His Resurrection (16th century) and two panels painted in 1556 by Peter Pourbus entitled the 31 Members of the Noble Brotherhood of the Holy Blood. There are also six medallions carved in oak which represent scenes of Christ’s life, and a large tapestry which dates back to 1637 that depicts the transfer of the relics of St. Augustine from Africa to Sardinia.
Making our way back down the staircase, we found the second part of the church, the Romanesque Chapel of St. Basil. It was such a contrast, stepping inside this chapel, as it couldn’t be more different than what we had just visited. While the Chapel of the Holy Blood was ornate and blossoming with color, the Chapel of St. Basil was very austere and dark. The only Romanesque church in West Flanders, it dates back to the first half of the 12th century. Established by Derrick, Count of Alsace, it was dedicated to St. Basil the Great and constructed to house his relic brought from Caesarea during the Crusades. This relic, along with the relic of Charles the Good, can be found at the left of the choir in the chapel of Saint Yves. The chapel is small and feels extremely closed in with its low vaulted ceiling and brick archways, but there is something extremely important in the right aisle. A wooden statue of the Madonna and Child dates back to 1306 and is the central focus of the procession along with the relic of the Holy Blood, held each year during on Ascension Day in the city. During the procession, the bishop of Bruges carries the relic of the Holy Blood through the streets, accompanied by the Madonna and Child statue and costumed residents dramatizing biblical scenes. Two additional statues, Jesus on the Cold Stone and the Pieta are also carried in the procession. This cavalcade dates back to 1291 and still follows the route established in 1578 when it was changed due to the religious wars.
Having seen pictures of the religious procession, it reminded me of the processions I witnessed last year in Guatemala, yet more festive, and I made a mental note to mark my calendar for the next year’s events.
Both chapels contain many treasures, but the sacred relic is truly the treasure of Bruges.
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Basilica of the Holy Blood
- http://www.holyblood.com/?lang=en
- Address: Basilica of the Holy Blood Burg 13, 8000 Bruges
- Hours: 0930-1230 and 1400-1730, daily. Closed January 1 and January 13-January 18.
- Mass Times: Daily, also on Sunday and Holy Days, at 1100 except Monday.
- Veneration of the Holy Blood relic: Every morning 1130 till 1200 and every afternoon from 1400-1600. Fridays and Sundays after 1100 Mass.
- Admission: Basilica and Chapel, free. Treasury/Museum, €2,50
Burg Square
- https://www.visitbruges.be/highlights/burg
- Address: Hoogstraat and Breidelstraat, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: free