temple – Snapping The Globe

Look Out Lodi, Here We Come!

Traveling with my friend Cristina is always a treat…she’s one of those few people that I can plan a trip with and expect to see everything that the city has to offer. She has as much energy as I do and always has an idea for something fun! Together, we are a traveling force to be reckoned with!

Last fall, while working a trip to Milan, we decided that we should take a day trip to a neighboring city. Scouring the map, we looked for cities that were an hour or an hour and a half away and that offered numerous sites and a city center with easy access to the train station.

Stumbling upon a cool little video about the city of Lodi, we decided that this would be our destination. With only a thirty-minute train ride (a bonus!), a beautiful Piazza and plenty of churches, it looked like there would be plenty to keep us occupied that afternoon.

Heading to Milan’s Centrale Station, we hopped on a train and struck up conversation with a young woman heading toward Bologna. She had been to Lodi and insisted that we would enjoy our excursion, especially since it was one of those no-cloud-in-the-sky warm fall afternoons.

Thirty minutes later, bidding our new friend Arrivederci, we jumped off the train and made our way toward the city center. Spying some unique architecture and passing through Passeggio Federico I Park and its many monuments, we happened upon the Porta Cremona, a monumental gate which also pays tribute to the fallen of the Great War fought in Lodi, Italy.

Gazing wistfully at the locked Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, we continued on knowing that there was much that awaited us only a few blocks away.

Heading north, we chatted as we passed numerous churches, intriguing alleyways and interesting art and architecture. Reaching the Napoleon Bonaparte bridge, which spans the Adda river, we stood on its pedestrian walkway gazing out at its muddy waters and the beautiful villas lining its banks. This bridge played an important role in the Battle of Lodi, during the French Revolutionary War, on May 10, 1796, when the French forces, under Napoleon’s rule, went head-to-head with Austrian forces, led by Karl Philipp Sebottendorf. While Napoleon was successful in this campaign, it was not a decisive battle, but one that led Napoleon to believe that he was superior to other generals and destined to achieve great things. A couple blocks from the river we found an interesting statue of Napoleon Bonaparte and a commemorative plaque.

*Napoleon Bonaparte bridge, spanning the Adda river*

As we continued our walk, we discovered a quaint little courtyard filled with plates decorating the walls. Not sure if it was attached to an artist’s studio, it was fun looking at all the displays. There were lots of little shops and cafes along the way, many closed for a few hours in the afternoon, but the best one was Gelateria Umberto. Who can resist a couple of scoops of gelato in the afternoon? Not me!

Finally, we made it to the Piazza della Vittoria (Victory Square), where the Lodi Cathedral (Duomo) takes the center stage.

Founded in 1158, the cathedral was completed in two phases, the second, being carried on from 1170 and the façade being completed in 1284. The brick entrance that faces the Piazza is Gothic in style, however, the overall building is Romanesque with a massive bell tower which was left unfinished.

As we entered the massive church, the largest in northern Italy and seat of the Bishop of Lodi, we were amazed with how much there was to see within its walls. Looking down the nave toward the altar, there were two staircases on either side. At the back of the church there were multiple tombs and along each wall, multiple side chapels, the most impressive being a simple niche containing a 15^th century, full-size wooden depiction of Christ, his disciples and his blessed mother, Mary. The church is also connected on the left to the Bishop’s Palace and a court which is the remaining part of a cloister dating back to 1484.

Up the right-hand staircase, we found the entrance to the crypt, which features a 12^th century bas-relief and is the oldest section of the cathedral. In the center of the crypt is an altar dating back to 1856, which houses the remains of Saint Bassianus in a beautifully bedecked silver case. On the left-hand side of the high altar is the altar of Saint Alberto Quadrelli, Bishop of Lodi from 1168 to 1173.

*Court remains of 15th century cloister*

Once our explorations of the cathedral were complete, we headed back into the Piazza, formerly known as the Piazza Maggiore until 1924. The town hall is located here as well as the Vistarini Palace, one of the most beautiful in the city. Porticos which protect cafe tables from the sun and the elements, line the edges of the square and it is quite colorful and scenic. It is definitely the heart of the city today where the residents meet for conversation, children play games and the local market is held on Tuesdays and Thursdays in contrast to the fairs, festivals and executions which took place during Medieval times. As countless bishops have traversed the square over time, it even saw the arrival of Pope John Paul II in 1992.

Spying another tall bell tower down one of the streets branching off of the Piazza, we set off on foot attempting to find what lay beneath. While the church we found was closed, our curiosity led us to an even greater discovery, Il Templo dell’Incoronata.

At the end of the 15th century, a brothel with a painting of an image of the Virgin Mary was located in the area known today as via Incoronata. It is said that in September of 1487, the image of the Virgin Mary wept and called on those present to build a temple dedicated to her on that site…Tempio delle Incoronata or the Temple of the Crowned.

With the assistance of all citizens of Lodi, the Temple of the City was erected and became one of the most beautiful buildings of Renaissance Lombardy. Started in 1488 by Giovanni Battagio, a pupil of Bramante, it was completed in 1503, by Lorenzo Maggi, and a portico was added in the late 15^th century and the loggia in 1882. It was through two small doors in the portico that we entered, only because we were being nosy when we saw other tourists exit. Walking a short distance thru a small, dark hallway, our inquisitiveness was rewarded with one of the most spectacular church interiors that we had both ever laid eyes on.

The octagonal space was surrounded by arches on the lower level, an altar and an octagonally domed ceiling all highlighted by copious amounts of gilt. Every space not covered in gold was decorated with paintings, most completed by three generations of the Piazza family, who were founding the most prestigious painting school in Italy. It was almost indescribable! The only disappointing part was that we were not there on Sunday when the underground space below the monumental sacristy is open to the public. In this museum space, there are three different rooms housing rare and unique works of sacred art and objects attesting to the importance of the sanctuary.

Giddy with excitement, we headed back out into the city, taking a roundabout route back to the train station. Spotting the Church of San Lorenzo, we ducked inside, perhaps to say a few prayers for our expeditious return to Milan since we were hearing rumblings of a train strike.

The city’s oldest church, after the cathedral, was built in the 12th and 13th centuries. A typical Romanesque-style church, we noticed an image of Saint Lorenzo, above the altar, to whom the church is dedicated. There were several works of art within the church and beautiful architectural details including the apse above the choir with 16^th century stucco adornments by Abbondio da Ascona and a fresco of a Resurrected Christ by Callisto Piazza.

Glancing at our watches, we noted the time and set off once again, finding ourselves in the Piazza di Castello. The Visconti Castle spread out before us, including the Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi). The castle was founded in the 12th century by a member of the Visconti family, the Lord and Dukes of Milan who in the 13th and 14th centuries took possession of and then rebuilt the original fortification. In 1456, Francesco Sforza added a round tower to the northern corner of the castle which eventually (20^th century) was converted to a water tower. It has since become a landmark of Lodi greeting those who arrive into the city. Today, the castle is the seat of the Questura of Lodi, the local office of the Italian Ministry of the Interior. As we studied the exterior of the castle, we realized that we would have liked to have seen more of it, however, it is not open to the public and even if it had been, we had that train to catch!

*Visconti Castle and Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi)*

Walking quickly, we headed to the train station. Catching sight of the pink-hued building with its statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi, the city’s roller hockey team(yes, really…), and the time on the station’s clock, we knew that we had made it in time to get back to Milan for our dinner reservation!

*Lodi Train Station and statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi*

While Lodi had not been on our radar as one of the Italian cities we wanted to visit initially, we were so glad that we had found that video prior to our trip which was the inspiration for a wonderful day. Being so close to Milan was a bonus, but the biggest reward was the multitude of attractions that the city has to offer and getting to share it with my friend, Cristina!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram @snappingtheglobe.com.

Napoleon Bonaparte Bridge (Bridge of Lodi)

Address: Via X Maggio, 5, 26900 Lodi, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Lodi Cathedral (Duomo of Lodi)

http://Diocese.lodi.it
Address: Piazza della Vittoria, 4/10 26900 Lodi, Italy
Hours: 0730-1200 and 1530-1900, daily
Admission: free

Tempio dell’Incoronata

http://Incoronata.eu
Address: Via Incoronata, 23, 26900 Lodi, Italy
Hours: Monday, 0930-1230, Tuesday thru Friday, 0930-1230 and 1530-1800, Saturday and Sunday, 0930-1230 and 1500-1800
Mass Schedule: Weekday Mass, Sunday and holidays: 11.30 (visitors must leave the church ten minuts before the function).
Admission: free

Museo del Tesoro dell’Incoronata

http://Incoronata.eu
Address: Via Incoronata, 25 – 26900 Lodi
Hours: Sunday, 1500-1800
Admission: free
Booking is recommended for groups and school visits.

Church of San Lorenzo

Address: 9, Piazza S. Lorenzo, 9, 26900 Lodi, Italy
Hours: Unknown
Admission: free

Castle of Visconti and Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi)

Address: 26900, Lodi, Italy
Hours: 24 hours daily, viewed from exterior only
Admission: not open to the public

Not A Plain Jain

No discriminating religious institution visitor here!

Churches, temples, synagogues, mosques, chapels, basilicas, monasteries, convents…you name it! They are all on my visitation list when exploring a new city.

When we set out for our day in Mumbai, I had a loose plan. I knew that if we encountered any temples or churches, I would want to visit, however, I didn’t have any particular one in mind.

“Abdul…can we visit a temple?” (as our day came to a close…)

Abdul navigated his way through the streets of Mumbai and before long, we pulled over to the side of the street. He showed us the entrance to the Jain Temple Mumbai (also known as the Babu Amichand Panalal Adishwarji Jain Temple) and told us that he would park further down the street and wait for us.

Not sure what was in store for us, we cautiously entered the front gates and were immediately confronted with the rules of the temple. Some were incredibly interesting!

When I began to glance at the temple and its surroundings, I was extremely excited to explore it further. The temple is very interesting in that the entire premises is covered by a high roof that allows light to enter and which I also assume protects the decorated temple from the elements. The Jain Temple Mumbai is a place of religious significance and was built more than a century ago in 1904. The shrine is dedicated to Adishwara, the founder of Jainism and is the largest of the Jain temples in the city.

Ditching my sandals, I approached the temple and was stunned by its unique architecture and beauty. I was awed at the two stone elephants that greeted me at the stairway and the ornate archways and pillars that lured me further inside. Admittedly, I was a bit apprehensive about stepping inside and taking photos, but no one seemed to pay me any attention as they went about their business.

As I made my way throughout the temple, I discovered colorful sculptures and columns decorated with multi-hued and intricately carved flowers, marble floors and detailed paintings. As I glanced upward, I marveled at an amazing domed ceiling bedecked with symbols of the zodiac.

There were many worshipers, each paying their respects to the twenty-four tirthankaras and idols that could be found in the small alcoves. What I found most interesting, however, was a statue that a group of women were painstakingly changing. There were metal pieces, sort of like a coat of armor, that they were switching out to give the statue a different look. Was this Adishwara? Sadly, I never discovered the answer.

At the time, I didn’t know much about this religion, however, I later learned from Abdul, that the Jains are peace loving people who maintain their principles and avoid violence, most not even willing to kill an insect. They take great pride in and contribute greatly to the maintenance of their temples.

Having been to many different temples in throughout the world, I knew that I would see something different here in Mumbai. How ornate and elaborate it was, however, was a surprise to me and I loved the unique elegance of this place. It was no surprise to learn that this particular temple is renowned among the Jains for its unsurpassed beauty. Also, my visit left me wondering how I never knew this religion to exist. I am a well traveled person and am familiar with many religions and cultures yet, this one escaped me. Nonetheless, I was extremely grateful to be allowed to visit and learn something new and valuable.

Thank you Abdul!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Chandabala Jain Temple

Address: 41 Walkeshwar Ridge Road, Malabar Hill, Mumbai
Hours: 0500-2100, daily
Admission: free

Apollo’s Doorway

Cruising into the Naxos harbor, you don’t have to go very far to see a piece of Greek history and architecture.

Greeting visitors to its island, is the Portara, the portal to the temple of Apollo, standing on the islet of Palatia.

The temple’s construction was started around 530 BC, when Lygdamis, the tyrant of Naxos, made the decision to build the highest and most magnificent building in all of Greece devoted to the honor of Apollo, the Greek God and protector of music and poets. After war broke out, work was halted and never completed.

After the temple’s marble was harvested for the Castle of Naxos, the doorway was deemed too heavy to dismantle and relocate, leaving a prodigious example of early Greek architecture to be studied and enjoyed by both visitors and locals for thousands of years to come.

Though we had spied the beautiful doorway as our ferry sailed into port, it wasn’t until our last day in Naxos that we finally made the walk across the causeway that connects the islet to Naxos.

Making our way up the steep path, we were eager to reach the pinnacle, but it was also essential to stop and enjoy the views of the blue Naxian waters, nearby Paros and the Naxian coastline in the distance.

As we made the summit, the remains of the temple spread out all around us with the Portara in the centrum. Staring through this vestibule at the white-washed city beyond it, I wondered if we should have come here during the evenings when we spied large numbers of visitors holding court awaiting the setting sun’s final descent beyond the island of Paros.

Yes, I think we should have.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Portara Gate/Temple of Apollo

Address: Naxos 843 00, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Time To Make the Climb!

At some point during your visit to Cusco, you are bound to make the steep climb up the ancient Incan Road, Hathunrumiyoc (Quechua for great stone street”) and believe me, it is steep!

Passing the Archbishop’s Museum and the 12 angled stone set into the ancient perimeter wall, you will be huffing and puffing when you make it to the Plazoleta San Blas.

Or maybe that was just me…still unaccustomed to Cusco’s high elevation.

So why make the trip?

The area is quite unique and filled with boutiques, restaurants and of course…a church. A small church. An ancient church.

The Templo San Blas.

Built in 1544, the primitive chapel was constructed on the site of an old Inca temple dedicated to Illapa, the god of thunder and lightning. Set in the oldest parish of Cusco, the church, built by Viceroy Francisco Toledo, was originally built with mud bricks, but was reconstructed with stone walls after the earthquake of 1950.

An earlier earthquake also played a pivotal role in the church’s history. About a hundred years after its erection, an earthquake shook the city and the old neighborhood of T’oqokachi. Once the church had been rebuilt and restored, it became an important temple and began to be decorated with extravagant and important artwork.

The collection of paintings exhibited in the church include one displaying the Life and Miracles of San Blas by artist Fabian Perez de Medina and a canvas of the resurrection of Lazarus, by Master Diego Quispe Tito. It’s greatest attraction, however, is the beautifully intricate pulpit carved of Cusquenian cedar, known worldwide. One legend has it that it was made by a local man who who miraculously healed from leprosy, another suggests that it was created by famous Quechua woodcarvers, and still, it is also thought to have been created by either Diego Quispe Tito or
Juan Tomas Tuyru Tupac.

As we entered the simple looking church, our tickets were validated and we entered, not expecting to see much. What a surprise was in store for us!

As was becoming the norm, no photographs were allowed and someone was actively walking throughout the church watching our actions. If only I could have captured the beauty that was laid forth before us in greater detail. Trying to slyly snap a couple of photographs of the amazing altar and the pulpit, I was reprimanded by the guard…though I was successful. A bit embarrassed, we decided to head up to the bell tower where we were able to take photographs of the plaza beneath us and of the tower and bell. The views from here were spectacular in the beautiful afternoon.

Once we descended from the bell tower, the church had gained more visitors, but we were still unable to capture more photos.

While the church is included in the Religious Ticket, it is worth the price of single admission because of its rich history, amazing interior and views! Take the time…make the climb! Up the hill and to the belltower!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Templo San Blas

Address: Plazoleta San Blas, Cusco, Peru
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 0800-1800, Sunday, 1000-1800
Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Temple of Victory

Making my way through throngs of shoppers at the weekend market taking place at the Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio, I gathered my bearings and was attempting to find my way to the nearest Metro station. Passing between the apsidal area of the Basilica and the seat of the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, I stood mesmerized at a gate separating me from a tall, marble monument.

The Temple of Victory.

Only…I didn’t know what it was at the time.

Attempting to photograph the temple, I assumed it was part of Sant’ Ambrogio, but inaccessible to public visitation. Turning onto the adjacent street, I glanced back through the temple’s gates and noticed two people walking near the base. Appearing that is was indeed open to the public, I frantically began searching the perimeter for the entrance. I wanted to check this place out!

Street view to Catholic University. Temple on right.

Walking around the enclosure, I passed through an open gate, but witnessed a gentleman attendant folding up his table and chair. Noticing that it was almost five o’clock and probably closing time, I decided to enter and play the part of “the stupid tourist” if confronted!

First, walking around the base of the structure, I photographed the amazing statue of Saint Ambrogio by Adolfo Wildt and admired the intricately carved faces in the niches in the facade by artists such as Lombardi, Supino and Maiocchi. Peering into the structure through a closed glass doorway, I decided that I was definitely going in!

The door on the opposite side was not yet closed and I no longer noticed the attendant. Walking into the shrine, I quickly made my way both up and down the stairways.

After inspecting the upper floor, I made my way down to the bottom and the ossuary. Noting that it was a monument of extreme importance and reverence, I stood in silence reading some of the thousands of names that lined the walls.

I slowly wandered the marble floors and inspected the memorials on each of the levels.

After my retreat to the ground level, I encountered the attendant standing beside the entrance. Asking him if he minded giving me some background information on the temple, he happily obliged in excellent English!

The Temple of Victory (also known as Shrine of the Fallen Milanes or Monument to the Fallen), a marble, monumental complex dedicated to the fallen Milanese of the Great War, was inaugurated on November 4, 1928 on the 10th anniversary of Vittorio Veneto, the battle won by the Italians in World War II.

The complex is one of extreme symbolism and stands on the site of the ancient cemetery of the martyrs. The black stone fence surrounding the monument replicates the same measurements of the atrium of Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio. The eight sides of the building are oriented towards the eight gates of Milan which reminds one of the streets that the soldiers traversed from Milan to join the Italian troops. The four large arches and the symbols carved represent the four years of war and names of the great battles the Armed Forces fought in. Lastly, the four lateral sides symbolize the four natural elements, earth, water, fire and air.

Built between 1927 and 1930 and based on a design by Giovanni Muzio who collaborated with architects Gio Ponti and Tommaso Buzzi, the structure sustained major damage during World War II, but was later reconstructed. The nucleus of the temple contains an ossuary on the bottom floor that is surrounded by bronze plaques with the names of ten thousand Milanese who died during the war. Inside there are many beautiful monuments such as Mausoleo di Rosa dei Venti Teodorico or di Atene.

If you are in the area at night, you may be able to notice the signal light at the top of the monument. An electric light beam with four rotating rays can be seen more than ten miles away.

Taking a trip to the Sant’ Ambrogio area of Milan is a definite addition to one’s itinerary. However, if you are a history or war buff, a stop next door to the Temple of Victory helps in one’s understanding Milan’s importance in World War II and the lives lost during this important time in history. Definitely a must see, especially on a beautiful day!

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Temple of Victory

Address: Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 1, Milano
Hours: unknown
Getting There: Take the Metro to metro stop, S. Ambrogio

What? Wat Pho!

After our wonderful visit to the Floating Market, we headed back into Bangkok, only this time, our journey was much shorter with no traffic.
We had our driver drop us off at one of my favorite temples, Wat Pho, home to the Reclining Buddha.
If you’ve ever been to Bangkok and seen the Reclining Buddha, then you know how impressive it is, due to its large scale and detail. It is 141 feet in length, covered in gold leaf and inlaid with mother of pearl. When you enter the temple, you work your way along the front side of the Buddha starting at the head and ending at the feet.

Rounding the foot side of the Buddha you can see the intricate mother of pearl inlay underneath the feet displaying 108 different auspicious lák·sà·nà (characteristics of a Buddha). This area was blocked off due to the restoration of the Buddha’s feet. Presently, instead of rounding the end of the Buddha, within the building, you exit the temple, walk across the outside and reenter, so that you may experience the Buddha from the rear perspective.
Inside the temple, which houses the Reclining Buddha, along its backside, there are 108 wish pots which line the wall. You can buy a bowl of coins for 20 baht (about 56 cents), which you drop into each pot, one at a time, making a wish as you go. Last time I was here, I was not sure what these pots were for so I did not participate. This time, however, I bought my bowl, dropped my coins and wished away!

Visiting the Reclining Buddha is not to be missed, however, the rest of the complex is equally as amazing.
The temple complex houses the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand, and includes four chapels. The Phra Chinnatat and Phra Chinnachai Buddhas, in the west and south chapels are particularly beautiful. The galleries extending between the four chapels feature no less than 394 gilded Buddha images. Next to the Reclining Buddha, this is one of the things I love about Wat Pho…the walls lined with Buddhas.

The remains of Rama I are interred in the base of the presiding Buddha image in the main chapel.
The entire complex is worth the walk as there are many buildings and picture opportunities.

Wat Pho doesn’t ever seem to be as crowded as some of the other sites, such as the Grand Palace, which is nearby. Entry is 100 baht (almost $3.00). Wat Pho also has good English speaking guides who will provide interesting information for around 200 – 400 baht, depending on how many people there are in your group and how good your negotiating skills are.
After leaving Wat Pho, we walked to the ferry pier and looked across the Chao Phraya river to the Temple of the Dawn, Wat Arun, which is presently closed due to construction.
If you are in need of souvenirs, I have found that the shops here have great prices in relation to other places in the city. Don’t pay any attention to the price tags, negotiate…but I have found that it doesn’t take much negotiating to get a fabulous price!

See more pictures on my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe!