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Making my way through throngs of shoppers at the weekend market taking place at the Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio, I gathered my bearings and was attempting to find my way to the nearest Metro station. Passing between the apsidal area of the Basilica and the seat of the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, I stood mesmerized at a gate separating me from a tall, marble monument.
The Temple of Victory.
Only…I didn’t know what it was at the time.
Attempting to photograph the temple, I assumed it was part of Sant’ Ambrogio, but inaccessible to public visitation. Turning onto the adjacent street, I glanced back through the temple’s gates and noticed two people walking near the base. Appearing that is was indeed open to the public, I frantically began searching the perimeter for the entrance. I wanted to check this place out!
Walking around the enclosure, I passed through an open gate, but witnessed a gentleman attendant folding up his table and chair. Noticing that it was almost five o’clock and probably closing time, I decided to enter and play the part of “the stupid tourist” if confronted!
First, walking around the base of the structure, I photographed the amazing statue of Saint Ambrogio by Adolfo Wildt and admired the intricately carved faces in the niches in the facade by artists such as Lombardi, Supino and Maiocchi. Peering into the structure through a closed glass doorway, I decided that I was definitely going in!
The door on the opposite side was not yet closed and I no longer noticed the attendant. Walking into the shrine, I quickly made my way both up and down the stairways.
After inspecting the upper floor, I made my way down to the bottom and the ossuary. Noting that it was a monument of extreme importance and reverence, I stood in silence reading some of the thousands of names that lined the walls.
I slowly wandered the marble floors and inspected the memorials on each of the levels.
After my retreat to the ground level, I encountered the attendant standing beside the entrance. Asking him if he minded giving me some background information on the temple, he happily obliged in excellent English!
The Temple of Victory (also known as Shrine of the Fallen Milanes or Monument to the Fallen), a marble, monumental complex dedicated to the fallen Milanese of the Great War, was inaugurated on November 4, 1928 on the 10th anniversary of Vittorio Veneto, the battle won by the Italians in World War II.
The complex is one of extreme symbolism and stands on the site of the ancient cemetery of the martyrs. The black stone fence surrounding the monument replicates the same measurements of the atrium of Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio. The eight sides of the building are oriented towards the eight gates of Milan which reminds one of the streets that the soldiers traversed from Milan to join the Italian troops. The four large arches and the symbols carved represent the four years of war and names of the great battles the Armed Forces fought in. Lastly, the four lateral sides symbolize the four natural elements, earth, water, fire and air.
Built between 1927 and 1930 and based on a design by Giovanni Muzio who collaborated with architects Gio Ponti and Tommaso Buzzi, the structure sustained major damage during World War II, but was later reconstructed. The nucleus of the temple contains an ossuary on the bottom floor that is surrounded by bronze plaques with the names of ten thousand Milanese who died during the war. Inside there are many beautiful monuments such as Mausoleo di Rosa dei Venti Teodorico or di Atene.
If you are in the area at night, you may be able to notice the signal light at the top of the monument. An electric light beam with four rotating rays can be seen more than ten miles away.
Taking a trip to the Sant’ Ambrogio area of Milan is a definite addition to one’s itinerary. However, if you are a history or war buff, a stop next door to the Temple of Victory helps in one’s understanding Milan’s importance in World War II and the lives lost during this important time in history. Definitely a must see, especially on a beautiful day!
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Temple of Victory
- Address: Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 1, Milano
- Hours: unknown
- Getting There: Take the Metro to metro stop, S. Ambrogio