A View From the Top

© 2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Cotopaxi, Ecuador’s second highest peak.

19,347 feet.

We didn’t go there.

When looking for interesting tours and things to do on our visit to Quito, we considered Cotopaxi, but I was concerned about the altitude, even for the tours that only ascended halfway. After our experience in Cuzco the year before at 11,200 feet, where we took altitude medication and I experienced shortness of breath, I wasn’t sure it was something that I was ready for on this trip.

For a view of the city, we decided to head to the TeleferiQo, one of the primary tourist attractions. Opened in July 2005, this gondola, is one of the world’s highest aerial lifts, taking passengers on a 2.5 kilometer ride from the edge of the city up the eastern side of Pichincha volcano to the Cruz Loma lookout. And…for those who know that Spanish name for gondola is teleférico, the ride’s official name is a combination of “teleférico” and “Quito”…TeleferiQo! Don’t you love that?

Since I had not done much research on this attraction, we were surprised to find what a long ride to the top it was and how high we actually ascended.

Exiting the tram, after almost eighteen minutes, and making our way around the lookout area, we were amazed at the views of the surrounding volcanoes and mountains. Most of all, we could not believe we were at an altitude of 13,451 feet! Much higher than Cuzco!

Taken aback, I began to worry about the respiratory issues I had in Cuzco and immediately thought that we should take the gondola back down. My husband, however, persuaded me to take a walk around and see where the numerous paths would lead.

Thank goodness he did!

After taking in the sweeping views of the nearby mountains and volcanoes, we made our way along one of the paths leading to the Ermita de la Dolorosa, a small chapel, dedicated to Our Lady of Sorrows, which boasts that it is one of the closest to the sky.

Moving on, we followed the narrow, dusty path upwards to the start of the trail to Rucu Pichincha. Though we were not planning on hiking the five hour journey to that summit at 15,000 feet, there was much to see from the many overlooks in the area.

Along the way, I encountered a gentleman with both an alpaca and a llama offering the opportunity to take a picture with them. Donning the hat and poncho he draped me in, I held on and stood between the two animals. My two new amigos and I looked great against the beautiful blue sky and golden Ecuadorian landscape.

A short walk away, we encountered a set of swings. A little daunting, as it is located on the edge of a cliff, you almost feel as though you are going to fly off the mountain. Once you get used to the feeling of swinging so high over the city, your inner child takes over and it’s quite exhilarating!

The path continued a little further to for those desiring to hike or rent horses to continue on to Rucu Pinchincha. Here, we took in the different perspectives while zipping up to protect ourselves from the wind and dropping temperature of the waning afternoon.

Heading back down to the restaurant, we decided to take a break, have a snack and a beer and warm up before taking the 18 minute ride back to the teleférico’s base.

For all of the excitement of realizing that we had made it up so high in Quito, the adventure was enlightening. Had I realized that we were trying to ascend to such a high altitude, heck, maybe I wouldn’t have tried it. After the fact, however, I realized how little effect the altitude had on me and we probably could have gone to Cotopaxi. Nevertheless, our exploits on the volcano’s eastern slope were quite memorable!

If you are planning a trip to the TeleferiQo there are a few things to consider.

Mornings are considered the optimum time to visit as clouds tend to congregate on the summit later in the day. We were lucky and had a clear afternoon, however.

When purchasing tickets, a photo ID must be presented and the ticket stub retained for the return trip as it serves as a built-in alert system in case hikers do not return when expected.

Dress warmly and in layers as it gets colder and windy at the high altitude.

Stay hydrated.

Be aware of the signs of altitude sickness which may present itself, even at the Cruz Loma lookout, to those who are susceptible.

Acclimate in Quito for a couple of days before attempting to hike to Rucu Pichincha. The hike can be done alone or with a qualified guide. You can also hire horses ($15 per hour).

Weekends tend to be quite busy.

For those with children, a stop at the Vulcan amusement park at the base of the teleférico is a must!

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TelefériQo

  • https://teleferico.com.ec/
  • Address: Off Avenue Occidental, Taxi is 3 Easiest, Quito, Pinchincha 17050  
  • Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, 0900-2000, Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday, 0800-2000
  • Admission: Adults, $8.50, Children under 18 years, $7.00, Senior citizens, $6.50, Fast Pass, $11.00. Discounted rates for Ecuadorian citizens with identification.
  • Getting There: By car, take the Av. Occidental (Mariscal Sucre) in North-South sense (towards the Tunnels). At a distance of approximately 3-4 minutes from Av. Mariana de Jesús, the entrance is at the height of the neighborhood “La Comuna”. You will go up a street until you reach the parking lot of the Telefériqo or take José Berrutieta Street, which can be accessed by Gasca Street at the intersection with Ritter Street. Upon entering José Berrutieta Street, you will reach the intersection with Antonio Herrera Street. You must continue along José Berrutieta street, go under a bridge and take Fulgencio Araujo street. Then you take the uphill street where you can see signs of the Telefériqo until you reach the parking lots. Parking rates are $2.50 per hour or fraction. By bus, Mitad del Mundo bus runs throughout the Av. Occidental (Mariscal Sucre). City buses have two lines, one departing from Miraflores, it can be taken at the Hospital del Seguro or at the Miraflores round and the other departure from the Panecillo and can be taken at any stop in the Tunnels (San Juan, San Roque or San Diego). By Uber or taxi, approximate cost $5.00 from Marisol Sucre.

Inescapable

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Clint Eastwood made it out.

But…that was just a movie.

In reality, during the twenty-nine years of operation, Alcatraz Federal Penitentiary held fast to its claim that it was inescapable. Thirty-six prisoners made fourteen escape attempts (two men tried twice). Of these escapees, twenty-three were caught alive, six were shot and killed during their attempt, two drowned and five were listed as missing and presumed drowned.

From 1934 until 1963, the isolated Alcatraz Island maintained a lighthouse, a military fortification, a military prison and a federal prison. Some of the most infamous criminals were housed here, including Al Capone, Robert Franklin Stroud (the “Birdman of Alcatraz”), George “Machine Gun” Kelly, Bumpy Johnson, Rafael Cancel Miranda, Mickey Cohen, Arthur R. “Doc” Barker and Alvin “Creepy” Karpis.

Today, Alcatraz Island is only home to thousands of nesting birds, the well-preserved prison and other buildings and can be visited via tours from the mainland.

It had been many years since I had visited the famous attraction and I was excited to return since I didn’t remember much about my former visit. Since tickets to visit Alcatraz usually sell out each day, once I arrived in San Francisco, my first order of business was to book the tour. Selecting an afternoon departure from Pier 33, I anticipated spending a couple of hours making our way through the site.

On the day of our tour, we were ushered on to the Alcatraz Cruises boat with hundreds of other guests and prepared for the fifteen minute cruise to the island. The boat’s flag fluttered in the wind and we watched the mainland grow smaller as Alcatraz grew larger.

Soon we were making our way across the gangway to the open space at the ranger’s station. A park ranger gave us an introduction to the history of the island and then we were free to meander. A short movie gave us a brief history of the prison and the island and as we walked around, we admired the buildings, many in decline, that made up the premises.

Heading into the Main Prison area, where we would collect our Cellhouse Audio Tour guide, we noted that this was the area where prisoners were readied to be introduced to their confinement. It was here that prisoners were given their uniforms and required to take a shower in one of the long, open-air shower stalls.

This was the start of life in Alcatraz.

Listening to the start of my audio tour, I walked into the main prison area. Here, rows and rows of small cubicles in Cell Blocks B and C, each with a toilet, sink and cot, were displayed before me, once the home to a large prison population. These small cells were only 5 feet by 9 feet wide and each housed one prisoner.

The audio tour, the highlight of an Alcatraz Prison visit, is narrated by the some of the ex-prisoners and the correctional officers and describes the life they lived here at Alcatraz. Knowing that some of these narrators are no longer with us lent to the eerie feeling of this extinct facility.

It was interesting to hear the stories of the attempted prison breaks and even see the dummy that was made to fool the guards into thinking that the prisoner was still asleep in his bed. Cell Block D, was also fascinating, because it was here that the most dangerous criminals were kept. Though these cells were a little more spacious, prisoners were confined twenty-four hours a day and only allowed one visit to the recreation yard per week…alone.

Yet, it was “The Hole” that captured my attention. When prisoners were not cooperative, they were confined in “The Hole”, a dark room, with no interaction with the general population. As I stood inside this cramped, darkened space, even with the door open, it was understandable that many of the prisoners were mentally affected by their time here.

Our audio tour guided us through the kitchen and dining areas, where the inmates consumed their meals (reportedly the best in the system) and even into the recreation yard where they were allowed to exercise in the cool, bay air each day.

Continuing on, we were guided through the library, where many prisoners sought escape through books and even some attempted to better themselves through self-education. The visitation area was nearby and a place where prisoners could enjoy a visit from a loved one, once a month, with approval from the warden. No physical touching was allowed and inmates were forbidden to discuss current events or relate anything concerning prison life. Conversations were conducted via intercom and monitored by a correctional officer. Not adhering to the rules would result in a loss of the visiting privileges as well as other entitlements.

During Alcatraz’s operating years, there were many civilians that resided on the island, including women and children, families of the correctional officers and the Warden, employed at Alcatraz. You can walk through the rooms that served as work areas for these employees and see some of the primary living areas that housed them and their families. These families enjoyed their own bowling alley, soda fountain shop and convenience store, though most conducted their larger shopping trips on the mainland, employing the use of the prison boat which made twelve scheduled runs to the Van Ness Street Pier each day.

Due to rising costs and a deteriorating facility, however, the decision was made to shut down the prison in 1963. Prisoners were transferred to other facilities throughout the United States and all civilians were required to vacate the premises.

In 1969, eighty-nine American Indians decided to venture out to the island to make Alcatraz their home during a nineteen month occupation and protest. The group, Indians of All Tribes, wanted all retired, abandoned or out-of-use federal land returned to the Native People, who once occupied it, and felt that Alcatraz met this definition. Though the occupation ended with no resolution, you can still see traces of their time here.

Stepping out of the rear of the prison into the bright sunshine, made me realize how confining prison life could be, even for those who worked there. The beautiful views, however, would make anyone realize that life here on Alcatraz had to be better than life in any other penitentiary system in the United States.

Catching our boat back to the mainland, we pulled away from the dock, heading out into the bay. Looking back at Alcatraz in the distance, I reflected on the stories of the attempted escapes. Though it was a beautiful, sunny day, it was quite cool on the water. Anyone thinking they could make their way in these chilly waters must have been quite desperate, yet thought that it could be done. Of the attempted escapes, there were five missing and presumed drowned.

Presumed drowned. Yes, possible.

But, perhaps they are still out there, enjoying freedom yet keeping their stories of their time in the historic Alcatraz close to the vest.

No one knows for sure.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Alcatraz Island

  • https://www.nps.gov/alca/index.htm
  • https://www.alcatrazcruises.com/
  • Address: San Francisco, CA 94133
  • Hours: Varies according to tour selected
  • Admission: Early Bird Tour and Day Tour, $39.90 , Adult and Junior (12-17 years) $39.90, Child (ages 5-11), $24.40, Senior (62 years+), $37.65, Night Tour, Adults and Junior (12-17 years), $47.30, Child (ages 5-11), $28.00, Senior (62 years+), $44.00, Behind the Scenes Tour, Ages 13 and up only, Adult, $92.30, Junior (12-17 years) $88.25, Senior (62 years+), $86.00, Alcatraz and Angel Island Tour, Adult and Junior (12-17 years) $78.65,
    Child (ages 5-11), $52.40, Senior (62 years+), $76.40

Going Up?

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When you live in a hilly city, you get great legs.

Sometimes, however, walking up those hills takes too long and sometimes, you are just not in the mood.

In 1874, the people of Lisbon probably were not very concerned with how their legs looked, like the people of today.  The hills within the city, however, consistently presented a problem for those who needed to travel from the lower streets of the Baixa to the higher Bairro Alto districts.

Engineer Roberto Arménio recognized this dilemma and presented a project to the Lisbon municipal council which called for an elevator which would facilitate movement between the two areas.

Although many years commenced prior to its completion and inauguration in the early 1900s, the lift, finally put into operation, made life easier for the residents of Lisbon.  Over the years, however, visitors developed a fascination with Elevador Santa Justa, the only vertical lift, as well as the Elevador da Glória, Elevador Lavra and Elevador da Bica, funicular railways within the city.   In 2002, the lift, celebrating its first centenary, and the funicular railways were declared National Monuments.  Four years later, after a massive remodeling and renovation project, Elevador Santa Justa was opened to the public in 2006 as a tourist attraction.

Reading about this amazing engineering feat, I decided to tackle the Baixa district’s maze of streets and find this Neo-Gothic tower.

Approaching the vertical structure from the rear, I gazed up at the walkway connecting the tower to Largo do Carmo, catching a glimpse of those traversing the walkway and others peeking out over the edge of the observation decks.  The iron structure, with its neo-gothic arches and geometric patterns, is truly remarkable to see up close, towering seven stories with its four vertical columns, each composed of two pillars.  And if you think there is some semblance to the Eiffel Tower, you would be correct.  Roberto Arménio was, indeed, a former student of civil engineer and architect, Gustave Eiffel!

Walking to the front of the structure, the first thing I noticed was a sign, Wait Time, 60 Minutes From This Point.  

Gulp…how long?

The line, leading from the sign, down the steps and around the corner didn’t seem so far-reaching so I decided to give it a go.  After all, most of the time, wait times go a lot faster than estimated.

As I people watched and played games on my phone to pass the time, the toll of walking all afternoon became apparent on my lower back.  I prayed for the line to move more expeditiously and for the lady in front of me to take off her backpack, which she apparently kept forgetting was on her back and hitting me in the face.

30 minutes down.  Moved up a level in Candy Crush!

15 minutes to go.

5 minutes more.

Finally, I could see the elevator up ahead.  Only, those five minutes seemed to stretch out for eternity, turning into 15 more minutes.

The line finally began to move ahead of me and I quickly counted the number of people, realizing that there had to be limited capacity in the elevator car.  Money in hand, I walked up to the door.  The elevator operator took one look at me and shut the door in my face, while saying “FULL”!

Moments earlier, I had noticed that the elevator has two cabins, yet only one was in operation.  I had began to time the one working elevator’s departure and return and realized that the complete trip was approximately fifteen minutes.   So, with an aching back and a growling stomach, I tried to ignore the other tourists crowding around me, assuming if they pushed closer, their wait time would miraculously tick away quicker.  Fifteen more minutes.  Maybe I could move up another level on Candy Crush if my Iphone had enough charge.

A whirring sound caught my attention and I looked up just as the elevator came to a standstill in front of me.  After the descending passengers exited from the rear of the cabin, the door was finally opened and I was allowed to enter.

The cabin, decorated in wood, mirrors and windows, has two benches along each side for those who do not wish to stand.  A sign on the wall also confirmed what I had initially thought…capacity, 29 persons.

The thirty second ride was uneventful and I was a bit disappointed that while there were windows, they were covered in a layer of grime so thick that anything worth viewing was a gray, blurry mess.

Exiting the elevator, I stepped out on the platform and made my way around the structure.

Was I blown away?

No, actually, I think I had seen similar views of the city from the castle.  Noticing a gentleman in the far corner near a turnstile, I realized that another viewing platform was available one story up via circular stairways…for an additional charge.  No thank you, I think the view from 12 feet up will be…the same view.  Maybe I was just cranky at this point, especially when I realized why the elevator takes so long to go up and then, come back down.  The operator takes a smoke break at the top!

Wandering over the walkway, something suddenly dawned on me.  There was no one manning the entrance to the walkway.  If you are up on the Largo do Carmo, you can walk on over to the elevator and ride down, getting the elevator experience, for €3.  No long lines, no pushy people with backpacks.  Maybe I should have investigated this a little more thoroughly before coming.

Upon my descent, I pondered my visit to the Elevador Santa Justa.  Was it worth the wait?  No.

If there was no wait?  Yes.

The Elevador Santa Justa is an important part of technological history as well as that of the “City of Seven Hills”.  Take some time to make your way there and see if there is a line.  If the wait time is too long, get your exercise and walk up to Largo do Carmo…save yourself some euros and more importantly, time.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Elevador Santa Justa

  • http://www.carris.pt/pt/ascensores-e-elevador/
  • Address:  R. do Ouro, 1150-060 Lisboa, Portugal
  • Hours:  March-October, 0700-2300, daily.  Viewpoint open 0900-2300, daily.  November-February, 0700-2100, daily.  Viewpoint open 0900-2100, daily.
  • Admission:  €5.15 for up to 2 journeys.  Purchased onboard.  A 24-hour public transportation ticket can also be purchased from any metro station for €6.15 and includes admission to the Elevador Santa Justa as well as the Gloria Funicular, the number 28 tram and the tram to Belem.
  • Getting There:  Closest metro stations, Baixa-Chiado or Rossio