A View From the Top

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Cotopaxi, Ecuador’s second highest peak.

19,347 feet.

We didn’t go there.

When looking for interesting tours and things to do on our visit to Quito, we considered Cotopaxi, but I was concerned about the altitude, even for the tours that only ascended halfway. After our experience in Cuzco the year before at 11,200 feet, where we took altitude medication and I experienced shortness of breath, I wasn’t sure it was something that I was ready for on this trip.

For a view of the city, we decided to head to the TeleferiQo, one of the primary tourist attractions. Opened in July 2005, this gondola, is one of the world’s highest aerial lifts, taking passengers on a 2.5 kilometer ride from the edge of the city up the eastern side of Pichincha volcano to the Cruz Loma lookout. And…for those who know that Spanish name for gondola is teleférico, the ride’s official name is a combination of “teleférico” and “Quito”…TeleferiQo! Don’t you love that?

Since I had not done much research on this attraction, we were surprised to find what a long ride to the top it was and how high we actually ascended.

Exiting the tram, after almost eighteen minutes, and making our way around the lookout area, we were amazed at the views of the surrounding volcanoes and mountains. Most of all, we could not believe we were at an altitude of 13,451 feet! Much higher than Cuzco!

Taken aback, I began to worry about the respiratory issues I had in Cuzco and immediately thought that we should take the gondola back down. My husband, however, persuaded me to take a walk around and see where the numerous paths would lead.

Thank goodness he did!

After taking in the sweeping views of the nearby mountains and volcanoes, we made our way along one of the paths leading to the Ermita de la Dolorosa, a small chapel, dedicated to Our Lady of Sorrows, which boasts that it is one of the closest to the sky.

Moving on, we followed the narrow, dusty path upwards to the start of the trail to Rucu Pichincha. Though we were not planning on hiking the five hour journey to that summit at 15,000 feet, there was much to see from the many overlooks in the area.

Along the way, I encountered a gentleman with both an alpaca and a llama offering the opportunity to take a picture with them. Donning the hat and poncho he draped me in, I held on and stood between the two animals. My two new amigos and I looked great against the beautiful blue sky and golden Ecuadorian landscape.

A short walk away, we encountered a set of swings. A little daunting, as it is located on the edge of a cliff, you almost feel as though you are going to fly off the mountain. Once you get used to the feeling of swinging so high over the city, your inner child takes over and it’s quite exhilarating!

The path continued a little further to for those desiring to hike or rent horses to continue on to Rucu Pinchincha. Here, we took in the different perspectives while zipping up to protect ourselves from the wind and dropping temperature of the waning afternoon.

Heading back down to the restaurant, we decided to take a break, have a snack and a beer and warm up before taking the 18 minute ride back to the teleférico’s base.

For all of the excitement of realizing that we had made it up so high in Quito, the adventure was enlightening. Had I realized that we were trying to ascend to such a high altitude, heck, maybe I wouldn’t have tried it. After the fact, however, I realized how little effect the altitude had on me and we probably could have gone to Cotopaxi. Nevertheless, our exploits on the volcano’s eastern slope were quite memorable!

If you are planning a trip to the TeleferiQo there are a few things to consider.

Mornings are considered the optimum time to visit as clouds tend to congregate on the summit later in the day. We were lucky and had a clear afternoon, however.

When purchasing tickets, a photo ID must be presented and the ticket stub retained for the return trip as it serves as a built-in alert system in case hikers do not return when expected.

Dress warmly and in layers as it gets colder and windy at the high altitude.

Stay hydrated.

Be aware of the signs of altitude sickness which may present itself, even at the Cruz Loma lookout, to those who are susceptible.

Acclimate in Quito for a couple of days before attempting to hike to Rucu Pichincha. The hike can be done alone or with a qualified guide. You can also hire horses ($15 per hour).

Weekends tend to be quite busy.

For those with children, a stop at the Vulcan amusement park at the base of the teleférico is a must!

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TelefériQo

  • https://teleferico.com.ec/
  • Address: Off Avenue Occidental, Taxi is 3 Easiest, Quito, Pinchincha 17050  
  • Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, 0900-2000, Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday, 0800-2000
  • Admission: Adults, $8.50, Children under 18 years, $7.00, Senior citizens, $6.50, Fast Pass, $11.00. Discounted rates for Ecuadorian citizens with identification.
  • Getting There: By car, take the Av. Occidental (Mariscal Sucre) in North-South sense (towards the Tunnels). At a distance of approximately 3-4 minutes from Av. Mariana de Jesús, the entrance is at the height of the neighborhood “La Comuna”. You will go up a street until you reach the parking lot of the Telefériqo or take José Berrutieta Street, which can be accessed by Gasca Street at the intersection with Ritter Street. Upon entering José Berrutieta Street, you will reach the intersection with Antonio Herrera Street. You must continue along José Berrutieta street, go under a bridge and take Fulgencio Araujo street. Then you take the uphill street where you can see signs of the Telefériqo until you reach the parking lots. Parking rates are $2.50 per hour or fraction. By bus, Mitad del Mundo bus runs throughout the Av. Occidental (Mariscal Sucre). City buses have two lines, one departing from Miraflores, it can be taken at the Hospital del Seguro or at the Miraflores round and the other departure from the Panecillo and can be taken at any stop in the Tunnels (San Juan, San Roque or San Diego). By Uber or taxi, approximate cost $5.00 from Marisol Sucre.

Up On the Crater Trail

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

This was the year of the volcanoes.

For my son and I, anyway.

We had climbed Pacaya volcano in the spring and with Mount Vesuvius hovering in the distance, well…there was just no question…we had to climb it as well!

After our arrival in Naples, I had seen many tour companies advertising trips with transportation to and from Mount Vesuvius. Our first full day had been put aside for Pompeii and we assumed that we would take the next day to tackle the imposing mountain, however, when we arrived, we found that we could leave from the Pompeii train station for a trip to the volcano. Was it a good idea? Maybe.

After our investigation of the ancient ruins was complete, we signed up for the three o’clock departure from the Pompeii train station. Transportation was on a large, air conditioned bus and the winding journey lasted about forty minutes, dropping us at the entrance to Mount Vesuvius National Park.

We were given one and a half hours to make the ascent and return to our bus for the trip back to Pompeii.

Half and hour up the crater trail.

Half an hour around the rim.

Half and hour back down.

Not a problem. We were already ahead of schedule, being able to squeeze in Vesuvius on a day that we thought would only be devoted to Pompeii.

The trail was steep, but nothing that we couldn’t handle. If there was ever any doubt, however, I just watched the Russian woman a few paces ahead, making her way daintily up the dusty path in her kitten heels! We were glad, however, that the buses had the advantage of parking near the entrance to the trail, unlike those who arrive by car and were required to park further down the mountain.

The scenery was outstanding as we began our ascent and it only got better as we made it to the rim. Peering into the crater was quite thrilling, yet a bit uneventful. Maybe I expected a rush of hot air and a churning cauldron of lava! Instead, there were high walls with loose rocks cascading down into the interior and resting on the floor of the crater. Still, how often do you get to peer into a volcano…and as we spied some escaping steam, we had to remember that it was still a live one!

Continuing our hike around the rim, we encountered some small memorials, more views of the caldera and spectacular vistas of Naples, the sweeping bay and Pompeii.

The well groomed path finally culminated at the souvenir shop, La Capannuccia, where we grabbed some water and stopped to enjoy the wind in our hair and the sun dipping lower on the horizon.

Checking the time, we realized that it was time to head back down the path to our waiting bus.

Not seeing the bus in the parking area, we noticed many of the other visitors that had ridden over with us, searching for our return transportation, as well. While waiting for the bus to arrive, we noticed a bus marked for Naples. It was tempting but we had no clue if there was space on the bus or where the bus would drop us in Naples. We also had return transportation to Pompeii and then return train tickets back to Naples. Before we could check to see if we had enough money for this direct transfer, the bus pulled away, making us wish we had done a bit more planning, but then, there was our bus to Pompeii pulling into the lot.

So much for being ahead of schedule!

All in all, without my usual Plan A, B and C, we did get to see both attractions, Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius, leaving us free to continue our exploration of the Amalfi Coast the next day! But, if you plan to visit both of these amazing places from Naples or Sorrento in the same day, be sure to leave early and explore all transportation options.

Take it from us! It’s worth the extra effort to knock them out on the same day!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Mount Vesuvius

  • https://www.visitpompeiivesuvius.com/en/vesuvius
  • Address:
  • Hours: January, February, November, December, daily from 0900 to 1500, March, October, 0900-1600, April, May, June, September, 0900-1700, July, August, 0900-1800. Barring inclement weather or unforeseen circumstances, the trail to the crater is open all year round, including Sundays and holidays.
  • Admission: Adults, 10€, Students 8€
  • Getting There: By car, take the A3 Napoli-Salerno highway to the Torre del Greco or Herculaneum exit, and follow the signs for Vesuvio. At 800 meters above sea level, there is a parking area that costs 5€  for all day.  Shuttles to the ticket office depart from here, and cost 2€  (free for children). It is a bit of a steep climb to the ticket office so taking the shuttle is recommended. By public transport, you can take the bus or shuttle from CIrcumvesuviana Pompei-Villa dei Misteri stop or the Circumvesuviana Ercolano Scavi stop. Buses and shuttles cost 22€ round trip, entrance to the park included with transportation directly to the ticket office located about 200 meters below the trail head for the crater. There are also EAV bus routes between Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius every 50 minutes.