Up On the Crater Trail

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This was the year of the volcanoes.

For my son and I, anyway.

We had climbed Pacaya volcano in the spring and with Mount Vesuvius hovering in the distance, well…there was just no question…we had to climb it as well!

After our arrival in Naples, I had seen many tour companies advertising trips with transportation to and from Mount Vesuvius. Our first full day had been put aside for Pompeii and we assumed that we would take the next day to tackle the imposing mountain, however, when we arrived, we found that we could leave from the Pompeii train station for a trip to the volcano. Was it a good idea? Maybe.

After our investigation of the ancient ruins was complete, we signed up for the three o’clock departure from the Pompeii train station. Transportation was on a large, air conditioned bus and the winding journey lasted about forty minutes, dropping us at the entrance to Mount Vesuvius National Park.

We were given one and a half hours to make the ascent and return to our bus for the trip back to Pompeii.

Half and hour up the crater trail.

Half an hour around the rim.

Half and hour back down.

Not a problem. We were already ahead of schedule, being able to squeeze in Vesuvius on a day that we thought would only be devoted to Pompeii.

The trail was steep, but nothing that we couldn’t handle. If there was ever any doubt, however, I just watched the Russian woman a few paces ahead, making her way daintily up the dusty path in her kitten heels! We were glad, however, that the buses had the advantage of parking near the entrance to the trail, unlike those who arrive by car and were required to park further down the mountain.

The scenery was outstanding as we began our ascent and it only got better as we made it to the rim. Peering into the crater was quite thrilling, yet a bit uneventful. Maybe I expected a rush of hot air and a churning cauldron of lava! Instead, there were high walls with loose rocks cascading down into the interior and resting on the floor of the crater. Still, how often do you get to peer into a volcano…and as we spied some escaping steam, we had to remember that it was still a live one!

Continuing our hike around the rim, we encountered some small memorials, more views of the caldera and spectacular vistas of Naples, the sweeping bay and Pompeii.

The well groomed path finally culminated at the souvenir shop, La Capannuccia, where we grabbed some water and stopped to enjoy the wind in our hair and the sun dipping lower on the horizon.

Checking the time, we realized that it was time to head back down the path to our waiting bus.

Not seeing the bus in the parking area, we noticed many of the other visitors that had ridden over with us, searching for our return transportation, as well. While waiting for the bus to arrive, we noticed a bus marked for Naples. It was tempting but we had no clue if there was space on the bus or where the bus would drop us in Naples. We also had return transportation to Pompeii and then return train tickets back to Naples. Before we could check to see if we had enough money for this direct transfer, the bus pulled away, making us wish we had done a bit more planning, but then, there was our bus to Pompeii pulling into the lot.

So much for being ahead of schedule!

All in all, without my usual Plan A, B and C, we did get to see both attractions, Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius, leaving us free to continue our exploration of the Amalfi Coast the next day! But, if you plan to visit both of these amazing places from Naples or Sorrento in the same day, be sure to leave early and explore all transportation options.

Take it from us! It’s worth the extra effort to knock them out on the same day!

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Mount Vesuvius

  • https://www.visitpompeiivesuvius.com/en/vesuvius
  • Address:
  • Hours: January, February, November, December, daily from 0900 to 1500, March, October, 0900-1600, April, May, June, September, 0900-1700, July, August, 0900-1800. Barring inclement weather or unforeseen circumstances, the trail to the crater is open all year round, including Sundays and holidays.
  • Admission: Adults, 10€, Students 8€
  • Getting There: By car, take the A3 Napoli-Salerno highway to the Torre del Greco or Herculaneum exit, and follow the signs for Vesuvio. At 800 meters above sea level, there is a parking area that costs 5€  for all day.  Shuttles to the ticket office depart from here, and cost 2€  (free for children). It is a bit of a steep climb to the ticket office so taking the shuttle is recommended. By public transport, you can take the bus or shuttle from CIrcumvesuviana Pompei-Villa dei Misteri stop or the Circumvesuviana Ercolano Scavi stop. Buses and shuttles cost 22€ round trip, entrance to the park included with transportation directly to the ticket office located about 200 meters below the trail head for the crater. There are also EAV bus routes between Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius every 50 minutes.