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Clint Eastwood made it out.
But…that was just a movie.
In reality, during the twenty-nine years of operation, Alcatraz Federal Penitentiary held fast to its claim that it was inescapable. Thirty-six prisoners made fourteen escape attempts (two men tried twice). Of these escapees, twenty-three were caught alive, six were shot and killed during their attempt, two drowned and five were listed as missing and presumed drowned.
From 1934 until 1963, the isolated Alcatraz Island maintained a lighthouse, a military fortification, a military prison and a federal prison. Some of the most infamous criminals were housed here, including Al Capone, Robert Franklin Stroud (the “Birdman of Alcatraz”), George “Machine Gun” Kelly, Bumpy Johnson, Rafael Cancel Miranda, Mickey Cohen, Arthur R. “Doc” Barker and Alvin “Creepy” Karpis.
Today, Alcatraz Island is only home to thousands of nesting birds, the well-preserved prison and other buildings and can be visited via tours from the mainland.
It had been many years since I had visited the famous attraction and I was excited to return since I didn’t remember much about my former visit. Since tickets to visit Alcatraz usually sell out each day, once I arrived in San Francisco, my first order of business was to book the tour. Selecting an afternoon departure from Pier 33, I anticipated spending a couple of hours making our way through the site.
On the day of our tour, we were ushered on to the Alcatraz Cruises boat with hundreds of other guests and prepared for the fifteen minute cruise to the island. The boat’s flag fluttered in the wind and we watched the mainland grow smaller as Alcatraz grew larger.
Soon we were making our way across the gangway to the open space at the ranger’s station. A park ranger gave us an introduction to the history of the island and then we were free to meander. A short movie gave us a brief history of the prison and the island and as we walked around, we admired the buildings, many in decline, that made up the premises.
Heading into the Main Prison area, where we would collect our Cellhouse Audio Tour guide, we noted that this was the area where prisoners were readied to be introduced to their confinement. It was here that prisoners were given their uniforms and required to take a shower in one of the long, open-air shower stalls.
This was the start of life in Alcatraz.
Listening to the start of my audio tour, I walked into the main prison area. Here, rows and rows of small cubicles in Cell Blocks B and C, each with a toilet, sink and cot, were displayed before me, once the home to a large prison population. These small cells were only 5 feet by 9 feet wide and each housed one prisoner.
The audio tour, the highlight of an Alcatraz Prison visit, is narrated by the some of the ex-prisoners and the correctional officers and describes the life they lived here at Alcatraz. Knowing that some of these narrators are no longer with us lent to the eerie feeling of this extinct facility.
It was interesting to hear the stories of the attempted prison breaks and even see the dummy that was made to fool the guards into thinking that the prisoner was still asleep in his bed. Cell Block D, was also fascinating, because it was here that the most dangerous criminals were kept. Though these cells were a little more spacious, prisoners were confined twenty-four hours a day and only allowed one visit to the recreation yard per week…alone.
Yet, it was “The Hole” that captured my attention. When prisoners were not cooperative, they were confined in “The Hole”, a dark room, with no interaction with the general population. As I stood inside this cramped, darkened space, even with the door open, it was understandable that many of the prisoners were mentally affected by their time here.
Our audio tour guided us through the kitchen and dining areas, where the inmates consumed their meals (reportedly the best in the system) and even into the recreation yard where they were allowed to exercise in the cool, bay air each day.
Continuing on, we were guided through the library, where many prisoners sought escape through books and even some attempted to better themselves through self-education. The visitation area was nearby and a place where prisoners could enjoy a visit from a loved one, once a month, with approval from the warden. No physical touching was allowed and inmates were forbidden to discuss current events or relate anything concerning prison life. Conversations were conducted via intercom and monitored by a correctional officer. Not adhering to the rules would result in a loss of the visiting privileges as well as other entitlements.
During Alcatraz’s operating years, there were many civilians that resided on the island, including women and children, families of the correctional officers and the Warden, employed at Alcatraz. You can walk through the rooms that served as work areas for these employees and see some of the primary living areas that housed them and their families. These families enjoyed their own bowling alley, soda fountain shop and convenience store, though most conducted their larger shopping trips on the mainland, employing the use of the prison boat which made twelve scheduled runs to the Van Ness Street Pier each day.
Due to rising costs and a deteriorating facility, however, the decision was made to shut down the prison in 1963. Prisoners were transferred to other facilities throughout the United States and all civilians were required to vacate the premises.
In 1969, eighty-nine American Indians decided to venture out to the island to make Alcatraz their home during a nineteen month occupation and protest. The group, Indians of All Tribes, wanted all retired, abandoned or out-of-use federal land returned to the Native People, who once occupied it, and felt that Alcatraz met this definition. Though the occupation ended with no resolution, you can still see traces of their time here.
Stepping out of the rear of the prison into the bright sunshine, made me realize how confining prison life could be, even for those who worked there. The beautiful views, however, would make anyone realize that life here on Alcatraz had to be better than life in any other penitentiary system in the United States.
Catching our boat back to the mainland, we pulled away from the dock, heading out into the bay. Looking back at Alcatraz in the distance, I reflected on the stories of the attempted escapes. Though it was a beautiful, sunny day, it was quite cool on the water. Anyone thinking they could make their way in these chilly waters must have been quite desperate, yet thought that it could be done. Of the attempted escapes, there were five missing and presumed drowned.
Presumed drowned. Yes, possible.
But, perhaps they are still out there, enjoying freedom yet keeping their stories of their time in the historic Alcatraz close to the vest.
No one knows for sure.
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Alcatraz Island
- https://www.nps.gov/alca/index.htm
- https://www.alcatrazcruises.com/
- Address: San Francisco, CA 94133
- Hours: Varies according to tour selected
- Admission: Early Bird Tour and Day Tour, $39.90 , Adult and Junior (12-17 years) $39.90, Child (ages 5-11), $24.40, Senior (62 years+), $37.65, Night Tour, Adults and Junior (12-17 years), $47.30, Child (ages 5-11), $28.00, Senior (62 years+), $44.00, Behind the Scenes Tour, Ages 13 and up only, Adult, $92.30, Junior (12-17 years) $88.25, Senior (62 years+), $86.00, Alcatraz and Angel Island Tour, Adult and Junior (12-17 years) $78.65,
Child (ages 5-11), $52.40, Senior (62 years+), $76.40