accra – Snapping The Globe

Rediscovering Accra

There is nowhere like Africa.

The smells, the sights, the people!

I had missed being in Accra and was excited to show my friend around on her first sojourn. Once we had visited Black Star Square, a new locale for me, it was time to reacquaint with some “oldies but goodies” and see what else we might discover in the process.

When you walk around the city, you never know what you might encounter…fighting cows, someone’s laundry on a city bench or wall, someone sleeping under a tree, countless vendors hawking their goods. It is always a surprise and usually quite entertaining.

Dodging the hazards of the crumbling sidewalk, we ventured back along 28 September Road towards the Accra Arts Market. Speaking of not knowing what you might find or walk away with, this is the place. I was in search of face masks made of kente cloth and I knew exactly where to look, however, it is quite difficult engaging with the locals who invite you into their booths and remind you that it’s always “free to look”. Although I have countless masks and other oddities from my previous visits, I steeled myself to say no, however, my friend, on her first visit, couldn’t and walked away with a small table!

Purchases aside, we were able to reconnect with my old friend David, a drum maker who works in the market, share a soda and some great gossip!

Since the Kwame Nkrumah monument was a short distance away, I decided that we should stop in for a visit. Although I had been there before, it was nice to see it once again, even if the fountains were all drained and the property a bit unkempt. One of the most interesting things I discovered was in the museum at the back of the property. I had just finished watching the Netflix series, “The Crown” and remembered the episode when Queen Elizabeth danced with President Nkrumah at a ball in Accra in 1961. Right there on the wall was a photo depicting that particular event!

Leaving the property, I suddenly realized a major mistake we made upon our arrival. I really am out of practice… Never tell some of the locals your name unless you want a personalized ornament, shell, bracelet…the possibilities are endless. I understand that they are desperately trying to make a living, but once they had our name (in our case) they made bracelets for each of us with our monikers woven into it and wanted to sell it to us. Sadly, I didn’t have enough money for their asking price (which was quite high) and I felt bad for the amount of time spent making it, so…we came to an agreement of a purchase with a discount.

Continuing on, our next stop was the Holy Trinity Cathedral. This beautiful, stone church was completed in 1894 and was funded by the colonial British government. Fifteen years after its completion, it was deemed a cathedral by the Diocese of Accra.

Having lain my eyes upon many a cathedral in the world, I would say that this one was in no way equal, however, mass was just finishing and the priest warmly welcomed us inside and told us to make ourselves at home. The design was quite interesting with a dark, barrel-vaulted ceiling, a stone-walled interior and red velvet-covered pews, but it was stark in contrast to some of the Italian, Central and South American gilded temples I have set foot in. Nonetheless, it was nice to see the interior and even speak with some of the parishioners who were still gathered outside.

Heading into the Jamestown area, I was hoping that we could tour the Ussher Fort, one of the three forts that Europeans built in the region during the middle of the 17th century. This fort was built by the Dutch and was completed in 1649 and I suspected that we would be able to get some interesting photos in the bright, sunny day. Blaming incorrect internet information, we found the place to be closed, but were still able to sneak a peek at the interior through the barred doorways. Definitely another place for one of my future trips.

After stopping for a cold drink at the colorful Jamestown Cafe, we cut through the area that houses the Makola market. Having seen the market in operation during its peak operations during the week, we found the streets to be relatively deserted…Sundays are really a day of rest for many Ghanaians. A little further, after passing the monument to King Tackie Tawiah, (king of Accra from 1862-1902), we ended up on Independence Avenue with its countless vendors and local market. While Makola was quiet, we found a flurry of activity while hastening our own travels back to our hotel.

Hobbling back to my room, I suddenly realized how much ground we had covered that day. My friend was thrilled to have seen so many interesting sights and met so many interesting people. Me? I was just happy to rediscover one of my favorite African cities!

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Accra Arts Centre

Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: free

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and Museum

Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: 5 cedi (about .83 US)

Holy Trinity Cathedral

Address: High Street, Accra Ghana
Hours: Unknown
Mass Schedule: Unknown
Admission: free

Ussher Fort

https://www.ghanamuseums.org/ussher-fort-museum.php
Address: 33 Prof. Atta Mills High St, Accra, Ghana
Hours: Unknown
Admission: Pupils from Primary to JHS 3, GH¢ 0.20 (about .04 US), SHS Students, GH¢ 0.50 (about .08 US), Tertiary Students with ID, GH¢ 1.00 (about .16 US), Ghanaian Adults, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Children, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Students with ID, GH¢ 5.00 (about .83 US), Adult Foreigners, GH¢ 10.00 (about $1.66 US)

Makola Market

Address: Kojo Thompson Rd, Accra, GH
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: free

Seeking the Star

A year is a long way to be away from the things you love.

My job, my friends and yes, Africa!

Africa is absolutely one of my favorite places to travel to. I had not been to Ghana in a year and a half, so when I learned that I had a trip during my first month back to work, I was extremely excited!

Having spent so much time there in the past, I feel as though I know the city like the back of my hand. While looking through a map of the city, however, I realized that there are some things I had never seen except from maybe a cab window.

Rising bright and early in the morning, I had breakfast and then set out with a friend to investigate one of Ghana’s major landmarks…Black Star Square.

The public square, also known as Independence Square, hosts the city’s annual celebrations and other national events, including civic and military parades.

Completed in 1961, by prime minister and President Kwame Nkrumah, to celebrate Ghana’s independence from the British, the square boasts stands to accommodate 30,000 people, the Independence Arch, the Liberation Day Monument and the Black Star Monument, also known as the Black Star Gate.

We made our way down 28 February Road approaching the square, spotting closed gates. These gates were low enough to step over, however, and noting other people in the square, we decided to join them.

Immediately to our left, we noticed one of the highlights, the statue of a soldier, facing the Independence Arch, which symbolizes the Ghanaians who lost their lives fighting for their country’s independence.

We then walked around the parade grounds, passing by and then under the Independence Arch and the stands reserved for the notables where we were stopped by a security guard. Though we were trying to take a look at the view of the ocean beyond the square, I guess we found out that this part was off limits. The square, however, is massive with lots of other ground to cover and it would be a sight to behold to attend one of the country’s celebratory gatherings, especially the Independence Day parade which is held March 6th every year.

Moving on, we made our way across 28 February Road to the Black Star Gate. As we approached, I noticed two gentlemen under the gate stand and one begin to approach. I steeled myself for a scam, however, he was very friendly and asked us if we wanted to climb to the top. The small admittance fee allowed our entry and he would accompany us to answer any questions we might have.

Climbing the inner staircase to the top, he chatted amicably and gave us a history of the square.

Standing on the pinnacle, we had an amazing view of the entire square, the nearby Accra Sports Stadium, the coast and parts of the city. The best part, however, was when our guide, Abraham, positioned us under the huge black star and photographed us with the appearance of holding it in our hands!

We chatted a bit, took some pictures together and then headed down for views of the arch from below.

There was a great deal of visitors while we were there and I silently wondered why I had never made it here before with it being so close to my hotel and many other attractions I had visited before! Now I can mark it off the list, with the intent of possibly returning on March 6…that’s something I want to see!

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Black Star Square

Address: 28th February Roundabout, Accra, Ghana
Hours: 0600-1800, daily
Admission: free. Climb to top of Black Star Gate, 5 Ghanaian Cedi (about .83 US)

African Assumptions

“Let’s go out clubbing tonight!”
“Where? Here in Accra? Are there even clubs here?”

That conversation showed how clueless I once was about Accra’s nightlife scene.

There are many ideas that people have about Africa that are so incorrect. I remember once after having my mom watch the Amazing Race’s Ghana episode, her telling me that she was surprised that there were such big buildings. I guess she never gave much thought to the idea that I probably stayed in an actual full-scale hotel. My brother’s pictures from his time with the Peace Corp in Mali probably further fueled her skewed perception of life in Africa…he lived in a small cinder block house in an outlying village and there were many pictures of him standing out in the plains with nothing around him as far as the eye could see.

But, if you think about it, many people’s experience with Africa is limited by what they see on television. Older people grew up watching Marlin Perkin’s Wild Kingdom on Sunday nights. African villagers, life in huts and on the plains was always shown as the norm. This part of Africa still exists, however, today, many African cities are almost as modern as the one you live in.

In Accra, new construction is present everywhere you look, thanks in part to the gold boom. There are shopping malls, fast food chains and many tall buildings popping up all over the city. For every beat up taxi driving the streets, there are Lexus’ and Range Rovers following right behind…quite a far cry from the Ghana I remember from my first visits.

Years ago, I remember always asking for a hotel room with a market view. A bit of a voyeur, I loved watching the people at the colorful market across the street, busy as bees, on their way to and from whatever was on their agenda that day. Today, the market is gone and a tall, glass office building has taken its place. And…no longer do we stay in that same hotel. As newer luxe hotels have begun moving into the city, we have changed accommodations which include “heavenly beds” and infinity edge pools.

In Dakar, Senegal, one of the hotels we have stayed in recently, is a very high end brand. I will never forget ordering a beer at the pool and finding out that I was charged $7. “Well, that’s what you would pay in New York!”, one of my crew members said to me, to which I replied, “Well, that same beer in the supermarket near the hotel is thirty cents and I am in Africa, not New York!”

That first night we went out dancing in Accra, I was blown away. Tucked away on a side street in Osu, were many clubs. Not having prepared for the nightlife scene, I had nice clothes, but some of these people were really decked out. High heels and sexy outfits were the norm and I am sure that my coworkers and I stood apart. But what surprised me most, was that if you had blindfolded me and asked me where I was, I couldn’t have distinguished it from any other city that I’ve traveled to. Great music and an awesome atmosphere…we danced the night away. When I described the night’s experience to someone, I could see the confusion on their face…I’m sure a night of dancing in Africa, in their imagination, entailed drums and a village fire.

Since, that first night, I have visited many other clubs in Ghana, Senegal and South Africa. But, what I think I took away from that first night is that everyone should always experience everything that you can in any city. Always take advantage of whatever any city has to offer…what is there, just might surprise you!

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Art in Accra

Walking up Barnes Road in Accra, I was seeking out the National Museum of Ghana.

Not sure which corner it was located at the intersection of Barnes and Liberia Roads, I sought the assistance of a local Ghanaian man. Pointing me to the northwest corner of the block, he showed me the building that I should go to.

Walking up to the building, I noticed that the man had directed me to the Museum of Science and Technology. Not sure what to do, I decided to enter the building so that I could ask for more directions.

The gentleman seated at the door, was very welcoming but informed me that the National Museum of Ghana was presently closed for much needed repairs. He did let me know that the Museum of Science and Technology was hosting an art exhibit entitled “Cornfields in Accra” and that I was welcome to walk around, check it out and then give them my opinion.

With nothing else on my agenda, I decided Why not?
Having been an Interior Architecture student in college, I am no stranger to art projects and exhibits, but walking around the ground floor, I was a bit confused. The only piece that seemed like an art piece was the seashell sculpture in the center of the room which rose up from the floor into the open area on the second floor. Every other piece seemed to be piles of things…hats, old electronics and a record player continually playing the same sound bite over and over. There was a series of three paintings on the wall that were interesting, but I was not sure how these all related to each other or a theme.

Scanning the brochure that had been handed to me when I entered the building, I learned that the exhibit was entitled Cornfields in Accra, based on the title from Ghanaian writer Ama Ata Aidoo’s poem. Cornfields in Accra is the sequel to The Gown Must Go To Town, the exhibition from last year. The exhibition showcases work by a choice selection of artists from the 2016 graduation class, as well as guest artists comprising alumni, teaching assistants and collaborating exhibitors from the engineering and life sciences departments of the University.

Further scanning the brochure, I learned a bit more.

“The works span contemporary art and allied practices which anticipate emergent formats, ideas and configurations of emancipated futures. The artists are not only concerned with human life but also contemplate other possibilities where animals, plants, machines, quanta and micro-organisms become potential platforms and media for reflection, engagement and interaction. This exhibition also honors the memory of Goddy Leye (1965-2011), a Cameroonian conceptual artist whose interventionist practice was very influential for the development of video/media, art film, installation and community-oriented work”.

“Okay.” I thought, “Maybe this will make sense when I get to the second floor.”

Walking up on of the corner staircases to the second floor, I eagerly glanced around the vast space at the different displays. Sadly, it seemed to be a bit more of the same…lots more piles of things and some hanging displays. It seemed as though everyone was given a particular item and was told to “run with it”.

Balloons dressed with panties…

Razor blades…

Weave hair…

Egg crates…

Foam…

VCR tapes…

Animal bones and horns…

There were two displays that caught my eye, however. There were masks made of aluminum and paper and a display of wooden masks on another wall. With these, I at least understood the craftsmanship involved.

The only redeeming factor of some of these displays was that I was able to get some interesting photographs.

It was extremely hot within the building and after forty-five minutes, I was quite anxious to make my way back to my hotel and the wonderful infinity pool waiting for me.

After signing the guest book with my comments on the exhibition, I was finally free to exit and begin my return. Although, I didn’t quite understand the exhibition, I am glad that I was able to see something different in Accra. It’s not often that I am able to experience any kind of exhibition, much less those in a foreign city, but, I could see the pride in the eyes of the people running the show. They were anxious to share their work and the work of others. If giving up a short bit of my day helped out the local students, then definitely, I was happy that I accidentally stumbled upon this exhibit.

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Museum of Science and Technology

http://www.ghanamuseums.org/science-tech-museum.php
Address: Liberia Road, Accra
Hours: 0900-1630, daily
Admission: Cornfields in Accra exhibit, free. Regular exhibits, adult foreigners, GH¢ 10.00, Ghanaian adults GH¢ 2.00, Ghanaian students GH¢ .20-1.00, foreign children GH¢ 2.00

The Seeker of Independence

Walking down Barnes Road, toward the coast, on many occasions, to purchase local crafts at the Arts Market in Accra, I’ve noticed a large structure in a park-like setting. Checking a local map, I discovered it to be the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial, dedicated to the memory of the prominent Ghanaian leader Kwame Nkrumah.

Dr. Nkrumah, the former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, led Ghana to seek its independence fifty-nine years ago. Born on the country’s gold coast, he was educated in the United States, earning a Bachelor of Arts degree in economics and sociology in 1939, a Bachelor of Theology from Lincoln seminary, a Master of Arts degree in philosophy and a Master of Science in education from the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia. Upon his return to Ghana, he made brief stops in Sierra Leone, Liberia, and the Ivory Coast. He then started his political career by working for the colony’s first true political party, the United Gold Coast Convention in December of 1947. His first office, Leader of Government Business, eventually led to his appointment as prime minister. After Ghana’s independence in 1957, he was elected president, with his reign ending in 1966 when he was deposed. Going in to exile in Guinea, he was never to return to Ghana during his lifetime. Falling ill, he died in Bucharest, Romania in 1972, while seeking medical treatment. Buried in Guinea, where he was served as co-president, he was finally returned to Nkroful, Ghana, the village of his birth. The empty tomb, can still be found in Nkroful, however, Nkrumah’s remains were transferred to the large national memorial tomb in Accra.

Having an extra day on my most recent trip to Ghana, I decided to dedicate it to seeing more of what Accra has to offer. Since the Nkrumah monument was not far from the hotel, I decided to make it the focus of my day.

Arriving at the front of the property, there are no signs which direct you to the entrance. A security guard pointed me to an open gate and said that I was welcome to walk throughout the complex. After entering the grounds and being asked for my ticket at the museum, however, I was finally directed to an entrance gate on the far right side of the property, where I paid my admission fee.

The impressive structure that dominates the property is a mausoleum, designed by Don Aurthur and houses the bodies of Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, and his wife Fathia Nkrumah.

When approaching the mausoleum from High Street, it is preceded by statues of bare-chested Ghanaian flute blowers and other musicians sitting in long fountains of water. The fountains were not operating, taking away from what I would imagine would be a beautiful sight. Directly in front of the mausoleum, is an impressive bronze statue of Kwame Nkrumah standing in the precise spot that he declared Ghana’s independence on March 6, 1957. The mausoleum is reached by concrete bridges on all four sides. The five acres of gardens surrounding the fountains and the mausoleum are alive with old and newly planted trees from dignitaries of other countries.

The mausoleum, built with Italian marble, represents an upside down sword, a symbol of peace in the Akan culture. The black star at the apex symbolizes unity and a skylight at the top of the Mausoleum illuminates the grave which is in the center of the mausoleum.

Another Nkrumah statue, behind the mausoleum, stands headless. Originally residing in front of the Old Parliament House, this statue was vandalized and de-headed during the February 24, 1966 military and police coup d’etat. The recovered head, which was presented by a patriotic citizen to the information service department, sits next to the statue.

A small museum is at the rear of the property. This museum, houses many of the personal items of Dr. Nkrumah as well as correspondence and photographs of his meetings with many important world dignitaries.

There is also a small gift shop at the rear right side and a refreshment stand on the left side of the property with some picnic tables.

The Memorial is interesting to visit and very educational for those unaware of Ghana’s history. Though needing a bit of upkeep, it is also a fitting tribute to a great man.

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Kwame Nkrumah Memorial and Mausoleum

Address: High Street, Accra, Ghana
Hours: unknown
Admission: 10 cedi

The Light and the Village

There isn’t a large list of tourist attractions and museums in the city limits of Accra. Venturing out to many places outside the city, I had only visited a couple of markets and one of the beaches within its boundaries.

Having read about the Jamestown lighthouse, I knew that it wasn’t very far from my hotel and maybe a cool place to get some pictures.

Hailing a cab outside the hotel was easy…getting the driver to understand where we were going was another story! A short drive later, we were in Osu, Accra’s downtown area. Realizing that he had not understood me, I finally had to show him a picture of the lighthouse on my phone. Another short drive and we were headed past my hotel again toward the coast and Jamestown.

Finding the brightly painted, red and white lighthouse locked, a woman finally appeared and informed us that she was the keeper of the structure. We each paid a 10 cedi entry fee and were allowed access to the interior. No longer functioning and in various states of disrepair, the lighthouse interior is not very impressive. After climbing the winding rickety stairs, however, we were rewarded with sweeping views of the coast, Fort St. James and the Jamestown fishing village directly below.

Quite windy at the top, it was a refreshing respite from the intense African heat. The walkway around the top felt sound although we tended to steer clear of the railing, unaware as to how often the lighthouse is inspected and maintained. We were able to see the light within the structure as it was still intact, although we were told it is inoperable.

Soon after our arrival at the the top of the structure, we were joined by a young Ghanaian man who introduced himself as Nice One. I was extremely skeptical of his offers to be our guide (for a donation) as we were already there and were really only interested in taking photos. Knowing full well how things sometimes work in Ghana, I continually rebuffed his offers, although he insisted on giving us the history of the lighthouse.

Built by the British in 1871 at James Fort, the lighthouse was replaced by the current structure in the 1930’s. Standing at 112 feet above sea level, it has a visibility of 16 nautical miles. It has stood tall and proud and been a part of the Jamestown community for many years.

Curious about the village below, I began to ask Nice One about the community and the seawall that extended adjacent to it. An extremely personable man, he answered my questions and eventually won over my trust. Speaking with my colleagues, we agreed to have him lead us on a tour of the adjacent fishing village.

Leading us down the road toward the village, he briefed us on village life and instructed us that if we wanted to take pictures, to ask him first. Without thinking, one of my coworkers lifted her camera to take a picture of a boat and was met with yells and cursing by some of the village men who thought that she was taking a picture of them. After a few minutes of fast-talking, Nice One thankfully seemed to calm them down and we were allowed to continue with our tour.

The villagers stayed mostly to themselves, but occasionally we were met with curious glances and more often than not, very suspicious glances. Everyone was busy with the tasks of the day. Racks of fish were drying and being smoked. Mountains of coconuts husks sat near bottles of coconut oils. Fish were being cooked on numerous grills. Some men were carving boats. Others, we could see out on the water, making their catch.

The children were very welcoming and we were able to snap some photos of them playing. We were then brought to the school where we were introduced to some of the children. A simple structure, the school had no walls, only a roof and a dirt floor, however, the teacher was quite proud to show us around.

As our tour came to an end, we decided upon a tip to Nice One of 20 cedi for his time showing us a side of Ghana that many are not fortunate to see. He walked us to the main road and insisted upon hailing a cab for us and gave me his phone number so that I could call if we needed anything.

Feeling quite fortunate to have things work out for our visit to the lighthouse, I do realize that many people may find themselves in an uncomfortable situation when visiting this area. Reading reviews by other travelers, I learned of those hassled by young men insisting that the entrance fee be paid to them or that they were the official tour guides for the light house. Others told tales of having knives pulled on them. Definitely not a place to be wandering alone, one should arrange for a tour prior to their arrival with official city tour guides or hope to find someone as reliable as Nice One, as we did. Never would I ever recommend to anyone to enter the Jamestown village on their own. The people are quite suspicious of outsiders and seem to resent tourists treating their town as a tourist attraction.

Fort Christiansburg — Fort Christiansborg

Additionally, the Fort Christiansborg, across the street from Jamestown fishing village, is often listed as an attraction on some travel sites, as it was the place that Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana’s first prime minister and president was held for three years beginning in 1950. The place has not been maintained and the fort is not open for visits.

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Jamestown Lighthouse

Cleland Road, Accra, Ghana
Hours: not published
Admission: varied