African Assumptions

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

“Let’s go out clubbing tonight!”
“Where? Here in Accra? Are there even clubs here?”

That conversation showed how clueless I once was about Accra’s nightlife scene.

There are many ideas that people have about Africa that are so incorrect. I remember once after having my mom watch the Amazing Race’s Ghana episode, her telling me that she was surprised that there were such big buildings. I guess she never gave much thought to the idea that I probably stayed in an actual full-scale hotel. My brother’s pictures from his time with the Peace Corp in Mali probably further fueled her skewed perception of life in Africa…he lived in a small cinder block house in an outlying village and there were many pictures of him standing out in the plains with nothing around him as far as the eye could see.

But, if you think about it, many people’s experience with Africa is limited by what they see on television. Older people grew up watching Marlin Perkin’s Wild Kingdom on Sunday nights. African villagers, life in huts and on the plains was always shown as the norm. This part of Africa still exists, however, today, many African cities are almost as modern as the one you live in.

In Accra, new construction is present everywhere you look, thanks in part to the gold boom. There are shopping malls, fast food chains and many tall buildings popping up all over the city. For every beat up taxi driving the streets, there are Lexus’ and Range Rovers following right behind…quite a far cry from the Ghana I remember from my first visits.

Accra-Ghana xxx

Years ago, I remember always asking for a hotel room with a market view. A bit of a voyeur, I loved watching the people at the colorful market across the street, busy as bees, on their way to and from whatever was on their agenda that day. Today, the market is gone and a tall, glass office building has taken its place. And…no longer do we stay in that same hotel. As newer luxe hotels have begun moving into the city, we have changed accommodations which include “heavenly beds” and infinity edge pools.

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movenpick

In Dakar, Senegal, one of the hotels we have stayed in recently, is a very high end brand. I will never forget ordering a beer at the pool and finding out that I was charged $7. “Well, that’s what you would pay in New York!”, one of my crew members said to me, to which I replied, “Well, that same beer in the supermarket near the hotel is thirty cents and I am in Africa, not New York!”

Firefly2That first night we went out dancing in Accra, I was blown away. Tucked away on a side street in Osu, were many clubs. Not having prepared for the nightlife scene, I had nice clothes, but some of these people were really decked out. High heels and sexy outfits were the norm and I am sure that my coworkers and I stood apart. But what surprised me most, was that if you had blindfolded me and asked me where I was, I couldn’t have distinguished it from any other city that I’ve traveled to. Great music and an awesome atmosphere…we danced the night away. When I described the night’s experience to someone, I could see the confusion on their face…I’m sure a night of dancing in Africa, in their imagination, entailed drums and a village fire.

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Since, that first night, I have visited many other clubs in Ghana, Senegal and South Africa.  But, what I think I took away from that first night is that everyone should always experience everything that you can in any city.  Always take advantage of whatever any city has to offer…what is there, just might surprise you!

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Art in Accra

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Walking up Barnes Road in Accra, I was seeking out the National Museum of Ghana.

Not sure which corner it was located at the intersection of Barnes and Liberia Roads, I sought the assistance of a local Ghanaian man.  Pointing me to the northwest corner of the block, he showed me the building that I should go to.

Walking up to the building, I noticed that the man had directed me to the Museum of Science and Technology.  Not sure what to do, I decided to enter the building so that I could ask for more directions.

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The gentleman seated at the door, was very welcoming but informed me that the National Museum of Ghana was presently closed for much needed repairs.  He did let me know that the Museum of Science and Technology was hosting an art exhibit entitled “Cornfields in Accra” and that I was welcome to walk around, check it out and then give them my opinion.

With nothing else on my agenda, I decided Why not?
imageHaving been an Interior Architecture student in college, I am no stranger to art projects and exhibits, but walking around the ground floor, I was a bit confused.  The only piece that seemed like an art piece was the seashell sculpture in the center of the room which rose up from the floor into the open area on the second floor.  Every other piece seemed to be piles of things…hats, old electronics and a record player continually playing the same sound bite over and over.  There was a series of three paintings on the wall that were interesting, but I was not sure how these all related to each other or a theme.

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Scanning the brochure that had been handed to me when I entered the building, I learned that the exhibit was entitled Cornfields in Accra, based on the title from Ghanaian writer Ama Ata Aidoo’s poem.  Cornfields in Accra is the sequel to The Gown Must Go To Town, the exhibition from last year.  The exhibition showcases work by a choice selection of artists from the 2016 graduation class, as well as guest artists comprising alumni, teaching assistants and collaborating exhibitors from the engineering and life sciences departments of the University.

Further scanning the brochure, I learned a bit more.

“The works span contemporary art and allied practices which anticipate emergent formats, ideas and configurations of emancipated futures. The artists are not only concerned with human life but also contemplate other possibilities where animals, plants, machines, quanta and micro-organisms become potential platforms and media for reflection, engagement and interaction. This exhibition also honors the memory of Goddy Leye (1965-2011), a Cameroonian conceptual artist whose interventionist practice was very influential for the development of video/media, art film, installation and community-oriented work”.

“Okay.” I thought,  “Maybe this will make sense when I get to the second floor.”

Walking up on of the corner staircases to the second floor, I eagerly glanced around the vast space at the different displays.  Sadly, it seemed to be a bit more of the same…lots more piles of things and some hanging displays.  It seemed as though everyone was given a particular item and was told to “run with it”.
 Balloons dressed with panties…
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Razor blades…
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Weave hair…
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Egg crates…
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Foam…
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VCR tapes…
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Animal bones and horns…
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imageThere were two displays that caught my eye, however.  There were masks made of aluminum and paper and a display of wooden masks on another wall.  With these, I at least understood the craftsmanship involved.
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The only redeeming factor of some of these displays was that I was able to get some interesting photographs.
It was extremely hot within the building and after forty-five minutes, I was quite anxious to make my way back to my hotel and the wonderful infinity pool waiting for me.
After signing the guest book with my comments on the exhibition, I was finally free to exit and begin my return.  Although, I didn’t quite understand the exhibition, I am glad that I was able to see something different in Accra.  It’s not often that I am able to experience any kind of exhibition, much less those in a foreign city, but, I could see the pride in the eyes of the people running the show.  They were anxious to share their work and the work of others.  If giving up a short bit of my day helped out the local students, then definitely, I was happy that I accidentally stumbled upon this exhibit.
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Museum of Science and Technology
  • http://www.ghanamuseums.org/science-tech-museum.php
  • Address:  Liberia Road, Accra
  • Hours:  0900-1630, daily
  • Admission:  Cornfields in Accra exhibit, free.  Regular exhibits, adult foreigners, GH¢ 10.00, Ghanaian adults GH¢ 2.00, Ghanaian students GH¢  .20-1.00, foreign children GH¢ 2.00

The Seeker of Independence

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Walking down Barnes Road, toward the coast, on many occasions, to purchase local crafts at the Arts Market in Accra, I’ve noticed a large structure in a park-like setting.  Checking a local map, I discovered it to be the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial, dedicated to the memory of the prominent Ghanaian leader Kwame Nkrumah.

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Dr. Nkrumah, the former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, led Ghana to seek its independence fifty-nine years ago.  Born on the country’s gold coast, he was educated in the United States, earning a Bachelor of Arts degree in economics and sociology in 1939, a Bachelor of Theology from Lincoln seminary, a Master of Arts degree in philosophy and a Master of Science in education from the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia.  Upon his return to Ghana, he made brief stops in Sierra Leone, Liberia, and the Ivory Coast.  He then started his political career by working for the colony’s first true political party, the United Gold Coast Convention in December of 1947.  His first office, Leader of Government Business, eventually led to his appointment as prime minister.  After Ghana’s independence in 1957, he was elected president, with his reign ending in 1966 when he was deposed.  Going in to exile in Guinea, he was never to return to Ghana during his lifetime.  Falling ill, he died in Bucharest, Romania in 1972, while seeking medical treatment.  Buried in Guinea, where he was served as co-president, he was finally returned to Nkroful, Ghana, the village of his birth.  The empty tomb, can still be found in Nkroful, however, Nkrumah’s remains were transferred to the large national memorial tomb in Accra.

Having an extra day on my most recent trip to Ghana, I decided to dedicate it to seeing more of what Accra has to offer.  Since the Nkrumah monument was not far from the hotel, I decided to make it the focus of my day.

Arriving at the front of the property, there are no signs which direct you to the entrance.  A security guard pointed me to an open gate and said that I was welcome to walk throughout the complex.  After entering the grounds and being asked for my ticket at the museum, however, I was finally directed to an entrance gate on the far right side of the property, where I paid my admission fee.

The impressive structure that dominates the property is a mausoleum, designed by Don Aurthur and houses the bodies of Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, and his wife Fathia Nkrumah.

When approaching the mausoleum from High Street, it is preceded by statues of bare-chested Ghanaian flute blowers and other musicians sitting in long fountains of water.  The fountains were not operating, taking away from what I would imagine would be a beautiful sight. Directly in front of the mausoleum, is an impressive bronze statue of Kwame Nkrumah standing in the precise spot that he declared Ghana’s independence on March 6, 1957.  The mausoleum is reached by concrete bridges on all four sides.  The five acres of gardens surrounding the fountains and the mausoleum are alive with old and newly planted trees from dignitaries of other countries.

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The mausoleum, built with Italian marble, represents an upside down sword, a symbol of peace in the Akan culture.  The black star at the apex symbolizes unity and a skylight at the top of the Mausoleum illuminates the grave which is in the center of the mausoleum.

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Another Nkrumah statue, behind the mausoleum, stands headless.  Originally residing in front of the Old Parliament House, this statue was vandalized and de-headed during the February 24, 1966 military and police coup d’etat.  The recovered head, which was presented by a patriotic citizen to the information service department, sits next to the statue.

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A small museum is at the rear of the property.  This museum, houses many of the personal items of Dr. Nkrumah as well as correspondence and photographs of his meetings with many important world dignitaries.

 

 

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Museum

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There is also a small gift shop at the rear right side and a refreshment stand on the left side of the property with some picnic tables.

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Gift shop

The Memorial is interesting to visit and very educational for those unaware of Ghana’s history.  Though needing a bit of upkeep, it is also a fitting tribute to a great man.

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Kwame Nkrumah Memorial and Mausoleum

  • Address:  High Street, Accra, Ghana
  • Hours:  unknown
  • Admission:  10 cedi

 

The Light and the Village

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There isn’t a large list of tourist attractions and museums in the city limits of Accra.  Venturing out to many places outside the city, I had only visited a couple of markets and one of the beaches within its boundaries.

Having read about the Jamestown lighthouse, I knew that it wasn’t very far from my hotel and maybe a cool place to get some pictures.

Hailing a cab outside the hotel was easy…getting the driver to understand where we were going was another story!  A short drive later, we were in Osu, Accra’s downtown area.  Realizing that he had not understood me, I finally had to show him a picture of the lighthouse on my phone.  Another short drive and we were headed past my hotel again toward the coast and Jamestown.

Lighthouse6Finding the brightly painted, red and white lighthouse locked, a woman finally appeared and informed us that she was the keeper of the structure.  We each paid a 10 cedi entry fee and were allowed access to the interior.  No longer functioning and in various states of disrepair, the lighthouse interior is not very impressive.  After climbing the winding rickety stairs, however, we were rewarded with sweeping views of the coast, Fort St. James and the Jamestown fishing village directly below.

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Quite windy at the top, it was a refreshing respite from the intense African heat. The walkway around the top felt sound although we tended to steer clear of the railing, unaware as to how often the lighthouse is inspected and maintained.   We were able to see the light within the structure as it was still intact, although we were told it is inoperable.

Light in Lighthouse

Lighthouse Windows2City View from Lighthouse

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Bull on Beach from Lighthouse

Soon after our arrival at the the top of the structure, we were joined by a young Ghanaian man who introduced himself as Nice One.  I was extremely skeptical of his offers to be our guide (for a donation) as we were already there and were really only interested in taking photos.  Knowing full well how things sometimes work in Ghana, I continually rebuffed his offers, although he insisted on giving us the history of the lighthouse.

Lighthouse9Built by the British in 1871 at James Fort, the lighthouse was replaced by the current structure in the 1930’s.  Standing at 112 feet above sea level, it has a visibility of 16 nautical miles.  It has stood tall and proud and been a part of the Jamestown community for many years.

Curious about the village below, I began to ask Nice One about the community and the seawall that extended adjacent to it.  An extremely personable man, he answered my questions and eventually won over my trust.  Speaking with my colleagues, we agreed to have him lead us on a tour of the adjacent fishing village.

Leading us down the road toward the village, he briefed us on village life and instructed us that if we wanted to take pictures, to ask him first.  Without thinking, one of my coworkers lifted her camera to take a picture of a boat and was met with yells and cursing by some of the village men who thought that she was taking a picture of them.  After a few minutes of fast-talking, Nice One thankfully seemed to calm them down and we were allowed to continue with our tour.

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Feet on a BoatThe villagers stayed mostly to themselves, but occasionally we were met with curious glances and more often than not, very suspicious glances.  Everyone was busy with the tasks of the day.  Racks of fish were drying and being smoked.  Mountains of coconuts husks sat near bottles of coconut oils.  Fish were being cooked on numerous grills.  Some men were carving boats.  Others, we could see out on the water, making their catch.

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The children were very welcoming and we were able to snap some photos of them playing.  We were then brought to the school where we were introduced to some of the children.  A simple structure, the school had no walls, only a roof and a dirt floor, however, the teacher was quite proud to show us around.

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As our tour came to an end, we decided upon a tip to Nice One of 20 cedi for his time showing us a side of Ghana that many are not fortunate to see.  He walked us to the main road and insisted upon hailing a cab for us and gave me his phone number so that I could call if we needed anything.

Nice One
Nice One

Feeling quite fortunate to have things work out for our visit to the lighthouse, I do realize that many people may find themselves in an uncomfortable situation when visiting this area.  Reading reviews by other travelers, I learned of those hassled by young men insisting that the entrance fee be paid to them or that they were the official tour guides for the light house.  Others told tales of having knives pulled on them.  Definitely not a place to be wandering alone, one should arrange for a tour prior to their arrival with official city tour guides or hope to find someone as reliable as Nice One, as we did.  Never would I ever recommend to anyone to enter the Jamestown village on their own.  The people are quite suspicious of outsiders and seem to resent tourists treating their town as a tourist attraction.

Fort Christiansburg
Fort Christiansborg

Additionally, the Fort Christiansborg, across the street from Jamestown fishing village, is often listed as an attraction on some travel sites, as it was the place that Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana’s first prime minister and president was held for three years beginning in 1950.  The place has not been maintained and the fort is not open for visits.

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Jamestown Lighthouse

  • Cleland Road, Accra, Ghana
  • Hours:  not published
  • Admission:  varied