The Seeker of Independence

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Walking down Barnes Road, toward the coast, on many occasions, to purchase local crafts at the Arts Market in Accra, I’ve noticed a large structure in a park-like setting.  Checking a local map, I discovered it to be the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial, dedicated to the memory of the prominent Ghanaian leader Kwame Nkrumah.

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Dr. Nkrumah, the former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, led Ghana to seek its independence fifty-nine years ago.  Born on the country’s gold coast, he was educated in the United States, earning a Bachelor of Arts degree in economics and sociology in 1939, a Bachelor of Theology from Lincoln seminary, a Master of Arts degree in philosophy and a Master of Science in education from the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia.  Upon his return to Ghana, he made brief stops in Sierra Leone, Liberia, and the Ivory Coast.  He then started his political career by working for the colony’s first true political party, the United Gold Coast Convention in December of 1947.  His first office, Leader of Government Business, eventually led to his appointment as prime minister.  After Ghana’s independence in 1957, he was elected president, with his reign ending in 1966 when he was deposed.  Going in to exile in Guinea, he was never to return to Ghana during his lifetime.  Falling ill, he died in Bucharest, Romania in 1972, while seeking medical treatment.  Buried in Guinea, where he was served as co-president, he was finally returned to Nkroful, Ghana, the village of his birth.  The empty tomb, can still be found in Nkroful, however, Nkrumah’s remains were transferred to the large national memorial tomb in Accra.

Having an extra day on my most recent trip to Ghana, I decided to dedicate it to seeing more of what Accra has to offer.  Since the Nkrumah monument was not far from the hotel, I decided to make it the focus of my day.

Arriving at the front of the property, there are no signs which direct you to the entrance.  A security guard pointed me to an open gate and said that I was welcome to walk throughout the complex.  After entering the grounds and being asked for my ticket at the museum, however, I was finally directed to an entrance gate on the far right side of the property, where I paid my admission fee.

The impressive structure that dominates the property is a mausoleum, designed by Don Aurthur and houses the bodies of Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, and his wife Fathia Nkrumah.

When approaching the mausoleum from High Street, it is preceded by statues of bare-chested Ghanaian flute blowers and other musicians sitting in long fountains of water.  The fountains were not operating, taking away from what I would imagine would be a beautiful sight. Directly in front of the mausoleum, is an impressive bronze statue of Kwame Nkrumah standing in the precise spot that he declared Ghana’s independence on March 6, 1957.  The mausoleum is reached by concrete bridges on all four sides.  The five acres of gardens surrounding the fountains and the mausoleum are alive with old and newly planted trees from dignitaries of other countries.

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The mausoleum, built with Italian marble, represents an upside down sword, a symbol of peace in the Akan culture.  The black star at the apex symbolizes unity and a skylight at the top of the Mausoleum illuminates the grave which is in the center of the mausoleum.

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Another Nkrumah statue, behind the mausoleum, stands headless.  Originally residing in front of the Old Parliament House, this statue was vandalized and de-headed during the February 24, 1966 military and police coup d’etat.  The recovered head, which was presented by a patriotic citizen to the information service department, sits next to the statue.

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A small museum is at the rear of the property.  This museum, houses many of the personal items of Dr. Nkrumah as well as correspondence and photographs of his meetings with many important world dignitaries.

 

 

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Museum

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There is also a small gift shop at the rear right side and a refreshment stand on the left side of the property with some picnic tables.

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Gift shop

The Memorial is interesting to visit and very educational for those unaware of Ghana’s history.  Though needing a bit of upkeep, it is also a fitting tribute to a great man.

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Kwame Nkrumah Memorial and Mausoleum

  • Address:  High Street, Accra, Ghana
  • Hours:  unknown
  • Admission:  10 cedi

 

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