travel photography – Snapping The Globe

Adventures in New Mexico Part 6-Carlsbad, But All’s Good

Heading so far south into New Mexico had me wondering if we had made the right decision going so far out of our way. But, I was told we couldn’t miss one of the state’s natural wonders…

Carlsbad Caverns.

As we headed farther south, we noticed fields of oil wells pumping out their liquid gold, so it was no surprise upon our arrival that many of the hotels, ours included, catered to long-term guests in the petroleum industry. This meant, however, that we were able to secure a larger room with a kitchen and an early breakfast in the morning as many of these workers make these hotels their home away from home.

Since Carlsbad Caverns was located about 20 miles southwest of the city center, we were packed up and grabbing a bite to eat with the oil field workers so that we could make our arrival before the opening of the Visitor’s Center. Even though it wasn’t yet the height of tourist season, we anticipated a large number of visitors and wanted to be one of the first in line since we had only half a day to experience the caverns and then make it to our next destination, over three hours away.

Winding our way up to the Visitor’s Center, we secured a parking spot and found ourselves fifth in line. As anticipated, by the time the doors were unlocked, a line snaked to the parking lot behind us. Using our America the Beautiful Pass for admission, we also signed up and paid for the ranger-led tour of the King’s Palace, a part of the caverns off limits except when accompanied by park personnel. We also opted to hike to the cavern entrance instead of taking the elevators. At the time, I really did not have an opinion about either, however, being accompanied by my son, he insisted that we hike, a decision I would later appreciate.

Since we were told we were unable to enter the cavern for another half hour, we spent some time inspecting the museum exhibits. As the appointed time neared, we all gathered near the door, expecting a ranger to come over and unlock it or have it magically swing open. When this didn’t happen, we all paced and glanced at our watches, thinking that our precious time in the cavern was dwindling. Eventually, my son tried the door, finding it unlocked! Yes, we were unable to go to the cavern until 0830, however, we all could have walked the trail to the starting point! What do they say about sheep and the cliff?

When we reached the gathering point, a ranger greeted us and gave us some important information about our trek. From here, we would walk to the cavern entrance a short distance away and after our visit, we could either hike back out or take the elevator back to the Visitor’s Center.

And so it began.

As we started our walk, we soon saw the giant, dark, gaping maw that was the access to the caverns. Much larger than I ever anticipated, I watched the bats circling near and from the entrance as we walked back and forth along the hairpin trail into the abyss. One thing we had learned from the ranger was that during the evening, the park hosts its nightly Bat Program which allows visitors to experience the wonder of thousands of bats flying out of the cavern and into the night sky (April to October) from the amphitheater at sunset. With regret, we wished that we had known of this event so that we could have journeyed here the night before. On this day, however, we would have to be content to watch the bats flying to and fro above our heads.

Cold and damp, we were glad that we had opted to don pants and pullovers and of course sneakers for the loose gravel and dirt path. Into the darkness, we proceeded, following the 1.25 mile Natural Entrance Trail and the occasional sign directing us to specific items to note. Extremely steep, we lost about 750 feet…equivalent to walking up or down a 75-story building…for about an hour.

As we made our way, we reflected on the fact that this was what sixteen-year old Jim White first experienced in 1898 when he stumbled upon one of the largest cave systems in the world, Carlsbad Caverns. Here, while we had explicitly placed lighting, well-maintained trails and a cafeteria a short distance away, he had explored with homemade torches, string to find his way back, food and water.

Little by little, he and a friend mapped the enormous caving system, naming each of the areas with monikers of what it reminded him of. Whale’s Mouth, with its draperies and flowstone, The Green Lake Room for its, yes, green lake, The Lion’s Tail for its stalactite and popcorn and the Temple of the Sun with its tall columns, stalactites and stalagmites.

Finally, we approached the Big Room. Glancing at our watches, we had a decision to make…head left toward the cafeteria to await our tour of the King’s Palace or keep going a short distance and then return the way we had come at our tour’s appointed time. Opting for the second choice, we continued through the impressive large limestone chamber, which is almost 4,000 feet long, 625 feet wide and 255 feet tall at its highest point. The fifth largest chamber in North America, it is also the twenty-eighth largest in the world. Following the snaking loop trail, we skirted thousands of rock formations, delicate sculptures, columns, cave bacon and popcorn, tubes, spires, fossils, ribbons, drapes, curtains, stalagmites, helictites, stalactites, totem poles, flowstone, soda straws and more all in the 357,469 square feet of the Big Room. As mesmerized as we were, we had to turn back to meet our guide, however, we knew that we would come this way again, shortly.

Gathering in the cafeteria area (which was not in operation at the time), we joined about thirty other visitors and our ranger for what was to be a one and a half hour, 1 mile guided tour through four highly decorated cave chambers into the deepest portion of the cavern…830 feet beneath the earth’s surface.

Following our ranger down an 80 foot descent, we marveled at the details and rooms for which Jim White had named the King’s Palace for its opulence. Listening to stories about the cave’s geology and early explorer’s experiences, we made our way through the first of the four chambers known as the scenic rooms, which contains a spectacular large castle-like formation in the center of the 100-foot tall expanse.

Continuing on to the Papoose Room, located between the King’s Palace and the Queen’s Chamber, we entered a small room which was similar in context to the King’s Palace. Hundreds of impressive stalactites clung from the ceiling and stalagmites sprouted from the ground.

Next was the Queen’s Chamber, considered the most beautiful of the four scenic caves, with its highlight being the 40-foot tall floor to ceiling drapery column and the delicate formations resembling lace and filigree.

Finally, we headed back through the King’s Chamber on our way to the final chamber in the assemblage, the Green Lake Room, passing the Bashful Elephant, which indeed, does appear to be a small elephant viewed from its rear. The Green Lake Room is the uppermost of the four rooms and named after the deep, malachite colored lake in the corner of the room. An interesting tale was related by our guide about how in the 1940s, the military, using the caverns as an emergency fallout shelter, used the lake to look for ripples caused by an atomic bomb test miles away. As none ever appeared, it was believed that Green Lake Room could be a viable shelter in case of a nuclear attack.

Finally, after hearing many tales of Jim White’s explorations, we were all seated on a bench. Our ranger asked us to completely turn off our cellphones and then he proceeded to shut off all lights in the chamber. At this moment, you realize that you have never experienced total darkness, even when you thought you had…at night…in your bedroom. This was something different…until I moved my arm and my Apple Watch gave the area around us a greenish glow, flashing 11:25. Embarrassed for ruining the moment, I quickly removed my watch and placed it under my leg! However, for the mistake, it did give us a small glimpse of how Jim White might have viewed the space with a single candle.

Making our way back to the tour starting point, we then resumed our explorations of the Great Room back from the spot we had left earlier. There was much to see including the Stone Lily Pads, table-like shelf stone formations at the edge of a now dry pool, the Silent Bell, the Crystal Spring Dome which is the largest active stalagmite in the cavern and having a bell-like appearance, the Rock of Ages, a huge column, the Chinese Theater, which contains beautiful columns stalactites and stalagmites and the Dolls Theater, a recessed area with soda straws and small columns.

All in all, our trek throughout the three miles of rooms and passageways of the main cavern took us much longer than expected. The sheer size of the cavern was unlike anything we had ever experienced and it was mind blowing that there are still parts undiscovered and more than 27 miles of passages are not open to the public! There were times when my mind began to wander, thinking that if an earthquake would suddenly happen in this area while we were so far below ground…I had to redirect my thoughts because, well, I just couldn’t fathom the consequences!

Finishing our circuit, we found ourselves back at the elevators and waited patiently for our return to the Visitor’s Center and civilization!

With our tour of what some call “one of the seven wonders of the world”, we headed back to Carlsbad in anticipation of the next leg of our journey.

Returning north, we headed toward Artesia where we took a westerly turn. A short time after our turn onto Route 82, I spotted an enormous sculpture resembling an oil rig. Anxious to get to our destination, but also curious about what it was, I made a U-turn and parked. While the city also boasts one of the best collections of bronze sculptures in the area and a diverse public mural program which celebrate its rich history, this major piece of sculptural work is the one to see if you only have time to devote to a single piece. The Derrick Floor, is dedicated “to the men and women who take risks and do the work to find, produce and refine New Mexico oil and gas.” The drilling rig is a 34-foot high cast with a four man crew created in 125 percent life size scale and sits in a pool of cascading water. It was designed by Vic Payne and dedicated in April of 2004.

My curiosity sated, we headed back to the road and continued our journey west through Lincoln National Forest toward Alamogordo and White Sands. Though most of our journey in New Mexico had been through dry, scrubby barren land, we welcomed the change of scenery as the landscape changed to a lush mountainous and forested region. Though there wasn’t much to see, besides a couple of shops and not many places to stop (plan your bathroom breaks accordingly), we finally emerged on the far side to some amazing mountainous overlooks in Cloudcroft. Happy for the opportunity to stretch our legs we pulled over to take a few photos.

Alamogordo welcomed us with a hot dry wind. As we glanced out toward the area where White Sands National Park was located, we could see a haze in the air and I wondered if conditions would make our planned excursion the next day a no-go. But first, in order for that excursion to take place, we had one thing to do.

Find some snow saucers and ski wax!

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Carlsbad Caverns

https://www.nps.gov/cave/index.htm
Address: 3225 National Parks Highway, Carlsbad , New Mexico 88220
Hours: Visitor’s Center, 0800-1700, daily. Last cavern entrance ticket sold, 1415. Last cavern entrance, 1430. Elevator into the cavern, 0830-1430. Last elevator out of the cavern, 1645. Hike into the cavern, 0830-1430, Last time to hike out of the cavern, 1530 (complete hike out by 1630). National park closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. Free entry for America the Beautiful Pass and other passes (see website for more information).
Admission: Adults (16 years and older), $15.00, Children (under 16 years), free.

Artesia Bronze Sculptures

https://www.artesiamainstreet.com/history-in-bronze
Address: West Main Sreet, Artesia, New Mexico 88210
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Metro de Chateau

At one end of the Paris metro yellow line is La Defense, the other, Chateau de Vincennes.

The location of my work hotel is somewhere in between and I’ve visited La Defense’s Christmas market a few years ago, but never gave much thought to the other end of the line. La Defense is a business district, I just naturally assumed Chateau de Vincennes metro stop was named after the area, not an actual Château. In actuality, I was partly correct.

The area of Vincennes was formed in the late 18th century, when two village communities located north of the chateau joined together…the hamlet of La Pissotte, which was built towards the end of the 13th century and Basse-Coura subdivision created under Charles V originally used to house royal servants. In 1829, the territory was enlarged at the expense of Fontenay-sous-Bois and Montreuil. Vincennes now covers an area of some 192 hectares and has almost 50,000 inhabitants. It is one of the most densely populated towns in France.

But, there really is a chateau in Vincennes!

Setting out shortly after my arrival into Paris, I was excited at the prospect of seeing this chateau in Vincennes that this metro stop was named for.

Exiting the metro, I discovered massive walls and an imposing gate a short distance away on the Avenue de Paris. Complete with a draw bridge spanning a moat surrounding the premises, I was reminded of its long history and its need for defense during tumultuous times.

Chateau de Vincennes entrance

Built between 1361 and 1369, this preferred residence of the French Kings was known for its keep and for its beautiful chapel, Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes, although prior monarchs used the area during the century before construction commenced.

Passing through the gates, I glanced up at the bell tower and clock, the very first public clock in France (although now a reproduction with its original kept in Saint Chappelle). A little further, I walked into a large compound with buildings lining the walkway to both my left and right, and here, I discovered the ticket office. Although I had purchased my ticket prior to my arrival, I stopped inside to ensure that everything was in order and to confirm what my entry fee covered. Handed a map, I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to visit not only the Keep and the Chapel, but also the Queen’s Pavilion.

*Chateau de Vincennes inner courtyards and buildings*

The Keep, or “donjon” seemed to be the perfect place to start my explorations. This fortified central tower, the tallest in Europe at the time, was built during the 14th century. Initiated by King Philippe VI in 1340, later his son Jean II of France and subsequently, his son, the future Charles V, the fortress with high walls, towers and a keep were completed by 1370. Charles V moved into the Keep with some construction still underway. As I moved through the massive structure with its 52 meter tower in the center, I read through the signage describing each of the areas’ usage.

The ground floor of the Keep has wells and the remains of a large fireplace, probably originally used by royal servants. It was largely rebuilt when the building was used as a prison.

*View of Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes and King and Queen Pavilions from the Keep*

The first floor contained the meeting hall of the Council of the King, and was also used when needed for bedchambers of the Queen and others close to the King. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, some of which are still in place.

The second floor was occupied by the bedchamber of the King, and has decorations added by Charles V of France when he rebuilt it from 1367–38. The walls were originally covered with oak panels, and the vaulted ceiling was decorated with sculpted keystones and consoles and painted flour-de-Lys and the coat-of-arms of the King, against a blue background, still visible. A small oratory is set into the north wall, though its wood paneling has disappeared.

The third floor has the same plan as the second, but lacks the ornate decoration of the royal floor. It was probably used by important guests of the King.

The fourth, fifth and sixth floors, which lack ornament, were probably used by domestic servants or soldiers. They were also used to store munitions for the weapons placed at the windows of the fourth floor and on the terraces of tower of latrines and the main body of the keep. The sixth floor has no windows and a ceiling only two meters high, and a single entrance. Beginning in 1752, the upper floors were used primarily as prison cells. The bars in the windows and doors date from that period. The extensive and elaborate graffiti still found on the walls on the upper floors also dates from the 17th and 18th century.

After Charles death, it remained a place of refuge for future kings, eventually converting to a prison and finally, a military installment. In fact, the most interesting portions of the keep were one of the areas used for the restraint of prisoners. In this area, I spotted many signatures etched onto the walls and the remains of murals painted on the walls by these prisoners, the most beautiful being those completed by Monseigneur Boulogne, confessor of Napoleon I, imprisoned on his orders. This room was also used to later keep the Comte de Mirabeau, who spent three years imprisoned at Vincennes where he wrote about the abuses of the royal warrant. Other famous prisoners included Denis Diderot (1713-1784), François-Vincent Raspail (1794-1878), the Marquis de Sade (1777-1784).

My tour of the Keep complete, I headed across to Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes. Having been to the beautiful chapel of Sainte Chapelle in Paris’ Ile de Cite, I was curious to see how they would compare.

Conceived by Charles V as his dream to add an exceptional religious monument to the fortress and a place to house the relics of the Passion of Christ, he did not live to see its culmination. With construction beginning in 1379, it still remained unfinished in the 16th century. King Francois I, a frequent resident, resolved to bring it to its completion in 1520, to celebrate the birth of his son and heir. Upon his death, Henry II of France resumed construction, completing the vaults and overseeing the addition of woodwork and stained glass with its completion in 1552.

While both are built in the Gothic style and organized in the same manner, this one seemed much more narrow and more brightly lit. Devoid of seating or ornamentation aside from the windows and the altar, it was a clear view of the sole internal space, especially from the rear choir loft, in contrast to Sainte Chapelle on the Ile de la Cite having two levels, upper for the King and his family and the lower for ordinary members of the court.

The sacristy, a separate two story structure, is attached to the chapel at the oratory of the King on the north side of the chapel and a stunning funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien can be found inside as well.

*Funerary monument of the Duke of Enghien*

Exiting the Chapel I headed through the arches into the courtyard of the Pavilions of the King and Queen. A beautiful, open and grassy space each building, the King’s Pavilion on the southwest corner and the Queen’s opposite.

*View of the King and Queen Pavilion Courtyard*

The King’s Pavilion was constructed between 1610 and 1617 by Louis XVIII and modified over the years to enlarge the structure. Consisting of three stories with five rooms for the King, his apartment looked our west over the gardens. Today, parts of the King’s Pavilion ceiling can be found in the Egyptian collection of the Louvre Museum.

The Queen’s Pavilion was construction many years later, from 1658 to 1660 and followed the same basic design as the King’s structure, however, instead of a garden view, it overlooked the courtyard. As the Germans stored explosives in the two pavilions and these caught fire after an explosion, the building fell in to disrepair.

*King’s Pavilion, upper middle. Queen’s Pavilion, middle*

On this visit, I was able to visit the King’s Pavilion, which houses an exhibition of the Fortresses of the Emperor depicting Napoleon and his military engineers. Personal possessions, artillery, portraits, models and other objects were found on the second floor and although the signage was in French, it was nice to see part of the interior of the building.

As the day was winding to a close and the temperature started to drop, I decided that my exploration of Chateau de Vincennes was at its end. Making my way back to the entrance gate, I headed back to the metro with the same name…

Chateau de Vincennes.

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Chateau de Vincennes

https://www.chateau-de-vincennes.fr/
Address: Avenue de Paris, Vincennes, FR 94300
Hours: 1000-1700, daily
Admission: 9,5€

The Golden House

It is well documented that most Roman emperors enjoyed flaunting their wealth, however, there was one that took his lavish lifestyle in the Eternal City to another realm.

Nero.

Deciding that he would build a palace to outdo all palaces, the Domus Aurea, he set forth with these plans in 64AD, after a major fire had swept through the city, destroying much of the area of the Oppian Hill. With this part of the city leveled, making room for his palatial plans, this led to speculation that Nero himself had started the fire.

Not to be deterred by rumors, he set forth with the construction of a complex, located near the Forum. The massive compound sat on 80 hectares, contained 150 rooms, gardens, a lake, fields, vineyards, pasture and forests with domesticated and wild animals. The rooms were lavishly decorated with gold, gems, precious marble and mother of Pearl, unlike any other built during the era. Records indicate that the house shone like gold with the light reflecting on these lavish decorations…hence the nickname, Golden House. And in the case that anyone’s memory lapsed and forgot who they were visiting, a 35-meter-high statue of Nero was situated at the entrance!

Some time ago, I had read about the Domus Aurea. Not open to the public during this timeframe, I had marked it as a point of interest on my Google map and filed it away hopefully for a future visit. Last spring, while perusing the internet, I came across an article advertising tours of the Domus Aurea. Tickets were limited and groups were small, so I excitedly booked a time slot in the afternoon.

Upon my arrival, what I first notice was that I was entering the gates of not only the Domus Aurea, but a park. A park filled with people sitting on benches, children skateboarding on the paved walkways and lovers relaxing on the grass in the shade of the massive trees. Deciding that it would be nice to walk through after my tour was complete, I continued to follow my directions, soon discovering a gate marked Domus Aurea, only to discover that it was not my intended destination.

*Parco del Colle Oppio and entrance to Domus Aurea grounds*

Virtual reality tours, which show the true nature of how Nero lived, are conducted on the weekends, when restoration work is not being conducted and embark from this location, however, being a weekday, I was directed to another building a little further.

After checking in, more people arrived and we were ushered into the building’s atrium with suggestions that we don outerwear for the cooler temperatures inside.

*Main entrance and walkway to Domus Aurea underground*

Not sure what exactly I was there to experience on my tour, I followed the guide down a long walkway, descending perhaps fifty feet or more to where the remains of Nero’s complex now lies, having been plundered, buried, and built upon by his successors.

Arriving in an impressively excavated, dimly lit, octagonal room, I marveled at the spotlighted statue occupying the center of the room and the astrological symbols being projected onto the vaulted ceiling. Indeed, it was much cooler, and I zipped up my jacket as I made my way around the rotunda, examining the adjacent rooms.

Our guide explained that this was the first time that these rooms have been made available as part of a temporary exhibition. This exhibition conjures up the Domus Aurea’s rediscovery by torchlight, in the 15th century, by those, including the painter Raphael, inspiring his future works.

I admired the best-preserved frescoes of the Domus Aurea in the Room of Achilles on Skyros which portrays a scene inspired by the story of Troy. Other rooms contained projections of the grotesques (a style of decorative painting or sculpture consisting of the interweaving of human and animal forms with flowers and foliage), architectural depictions of the palace designs and statues, including a reproduction of the Laocoon.

*Left photo, reproduction of the Laocoon*

We were also allowed into the dilapidated (due to weather and dampness) Room of Hector and Andromache, the first room to be discovered in the complex. The room was long and extremely tall; however, some remnants of its original artistry can still be detected.

Having examined all aspects of this beautifully restored piece of the palace, I made my way back up the inclined walkway and out into the warm, late afternoon sunshine.

Winding around the back of the building I had just exited, I followed the pathways, through the Parco del Colle Oppio, searching for the Baths of Trajan, which had been built on top of Nero’s palace, about 40 to 50 years later.

After Nero’s suicide in 68 A.D., his successors, Ortho and possibly Titus, added to the completion of the Domus Aurea, but later successors sought to erase Nero’s memory. Parts of the palace and grounds were filled with earth and built over, the Baths of Titus, the Flavian Amphitheater, the Temple of Venus and Roma and the Baths of Trajan were all built on the site.

The Baths of Trajan, built by architect, Apollo of Damascus, were created for the emperor Trajan and as a recreational and social center for both male and female Roman citizens in the early 5th century. There were the first “great baths” in Rome and at the time, the largest existing thermal building in the world. Not in use for very long, it was deserted and left for ruin.

The remains of these ruins are scattered through the northwest side of the Parco del Colle Oppio…amidst area’s playgrounds. Children were running throughout the area with parents watching, exercising or visiting with others. It was interesting to see these citizens using these hallowed grounds as a recreational site, which it once was in a different capacity, all the while knowing what lies beneath them and around them…the Domus Aurea.

*Baths of Trajan and middle right, Cisterna delle Sette Sale (across from rear entrance)*

*Rear entrance along Via delle Terme di Traiano*

*Front entrance, right across from Colosseum*

What an interesting way to grow up among some of Rome’s most historical sites!

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Domus Aurea

https://www.coopculture.it/en/poi/domus-aurea/
Address: Via della Domus Aurea, 00184 Roma RM, Italy
Hours: Thursday, 1600-1900, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-1700, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, closed.
Admission: 23 euro

Baths of Trajan

Address: Parco del Colle Oppio, Via della Domus Aurea, 1 00184 Roma RM, Italy
Hours: Dawn to dusk, daily.
Admission: free

Keep On Keeping On (To Kotor), Day Two in Croatia

Now we were gun shy. Or maybe you could say…car shy after our misfortunes driving in Dubrovnik. Who gets stuck on a bike path with a rental car?

Us…

Neither one of us wanted to touch that rental car with a ten-foot pole, much less drive it…and to another country at that. But, we had made a plan and we were determined to stick to it. Getting to the Airbnb, upon our arrival in Croatia, had proven to be a disaster. We had almost wrecked the rental car, gotten it stuck in a precarious position and now we were going to drive to Montenegro. Hmmm…okay. What else could go wrong?

Lots of things!

“Okay. I’ll open the gate. You step on the gas and shoot up that hill until you reach the top. I’ll meet you there,” I told my husband. This was the plan before the plan.

Huffing and puffing, I met my husband in the small parking lot at the top of the hill. He looked a bit nervous, as was I, but I pulled up my big girl panties and opened up Google maps and gave him the first instructions to Kotor, Montenegro.

Confident in the first twenty minutes of the drive, as it led us back to the airport, we had only about an hour and twenty to go from there. First, however, we had to cross the border into Montenegro. Since we had been informed by our car rental agency that a Green Pass (50 euro extra) was required to cross into other countries, we had that as well as our passports ready for inspection.

The border behind us, it was all smooth sailing until we reached the town Strp. We slowed down as we noticed a line of cars stopped on the highway. Waiting patiently and moving slowly forward, we suddenly realized that we were only moving as the police were directing people to turn around. The road was closed! Not sure what was happening or if it was going to be resolved at any time, we turned and headed back the way we had come. Stopping at a small restaurant, we decided that we would eat lunch and regroup. Alas, this would not go as planned either.

The restaurant was not serving food, so we just ordered sodas. When we decided to pay, we realized that we had missed something very critical…Montenegro uses the euro, which we did not have, and this restaurant would not take credit cards. Deep breath. With instructions from the waitress, I walked along the water to the nearest ATM, about ten minutes away, leaving my husband as collateral!

What we discovered on this little detour, however, was that I had noticed cars waiting to board a ferry in Kamenari. While we were having our drinks, I did a little internet searching and found out that we could take this car ferry across the Bay of Kotor and drive to the Old Town from the other side, so all was not lost!

Deciding to give it one more try, we headed to the ferry and got in line with the other cars. I jumped out and purchased tickets and then we were on the ferry making our way to Kotor after all!

*Waterfront near Kamenari and ferry across Bay of Kotor.*

While it took a little longer than we expected, we made it to Kotor and found a parking spot in one of lots that wasn’t very far from the Sea Gate of the Old Town.

What can I say about Kotor?

As we made our way inside through the Square of the Arms and past the Clock Tower, we secured a table for a quick lunch and noticed how immaculate and beautiful it was. There was piped in music. Not a speck of trash or a trash can in sight. What I felt like was that I was really in a new country at Epcot…it did not seem real! However, Kotor is not a new country…in fact, it was built between the 12th and 14th century and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is one of the most beautiful and well-preserved medieval fortified towns in the Mediterranean.

Since we were so delayed, we realized that we had to make quick work of discovering what lay within this ancient walls.

While enjoying our lunch, we reveled in the sound of the bells at the nearby Saint Tryphon Cathedral, one of two cathedrals within the town. Beginning our exploration at this beautiful place of worship was a given as it lay only a few hundred feet from where we dined.

The Cathedral, dedicated to its protector of Kotor, Saint Tryphon, was consecrated on June 19, 1166. The Romanesque church has been restored from damages from past earthquakes, the most recent being 1979 Montenegro earthquake. The church contains numerous artifacts, including a valuable treasury containing a silver hand a cross decorated with ornaments and figures in relief. The main altar offers a depiction of Saint Tryphon, as well as a relief of saints in gold and silver. The relics of Saint Tryphon are kept in the cathedral and it is well known that while they were destined to be housed in Dubrovnik, however, while enroute from Constantinople, they did not get any further than Kotor.

After paying our entry into the cathedral (thank goodness we had those euros!), we made our way through the cathedral, both downstairs and upstairs, examining all that made it special, finally ending up on the balcony overlooking the phenomenal view of the Square of Tripuna.

*View from upper window in* *Saint Tryphon Cathedral*

*Upper balcony of* *Saint Tryphon Cathedral*

*Upper balcony and towers of* *Saint Tryphon Cathedral*

*Upper floor of Saint Tryphon Cathedral*

Winding our way through the narrow lanes and alleyways, where only foot traffic is allowed, we next found our way to the Orthodox Church of Saint Luke, situated on the Piazza Greca. With traits of both Roman and Byzantine architecture, the church was once used as a Catholic school but was then given to the Orthodox denomination to demonstrate the harmonious co-existence of the Catholic and Orthodox people. Because of this significance, the church has two altars, one Catholic and one Orthodox.

Nearby, was the Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas, located on St. Luke’s Square with its spectacular patterned tile. Built in the early twentieth century, in the Pseudo-Byzantine style on the foundations of an older building destroyed by fire in the nineteenth century, it consists of one-nave with a large cupola that towers over the nearby rooftops.

As we approached, we admired the two bell towers and the black domes topped by golden crosses, gifts from Russia and a beautiful mosaic situated above the entryway. Inside, the diagonal patterned floor led our eyes to the altar, framed with a wall of icons and religious paintings, the most important by Czech painter Frantisek Ziegler (1908).

Continuing our explorations, we visited the small Church of St. Michael’s. Tired of churches at this point, my husband opted to hang out in the square near the huge three-hundred year old poplar tree that occupies it, while I went in to get my church fix. While I had read that the ancient church, built between the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, had been repurposed as a lapidary, I found the opposite. Standing in the spot where previously stood a 9th century pre-Romanesque church, the interior displays many frescoes, dating back to the 9th and 11th centuries and best preserved in the apse. Artifacts exhibited in the church include ancient tombstones, capitals and coats of arms of Kotor providors. The most impressive sculpture is one from the 1st century AD, made of white marble and depicts the Roman emperor Domitian. It is one of only three surviving sculptures, depicting the emperor, in the world…there is a bust in the Louvre and a statue in the Vatican museum.

Realizing that I needed to find something more to my husband’s liking, we headed toward the Kampana Tower and the outer walls of the city. As we walked along the ramparts, we had outstanding views of the blue-green waters of the Škurda River at its base. The walls were built between the 9th and 19th century, although the rampart ring was closed in the 13th and 14th century. The walls stretch for over four kilometers, range from two to fifteen meters in thickness and reach a height of up to twenty meters.

*Kampana Tower and views along the outer walls of the city.*

We had views of a crumbling church tower and wall as well as the rear view of St. Nicholas’ black dome and towers. We also had a stunning perspective of Mount Lovćen. On this mountain, we could see the tiny figures of hikers making their way up the fortress trail. With about fifteen-hundred steps and over an hour to complete, we didn’t have the time or the proper shoes to make this climb. Apparently though, the views of Old Town, the Bay of Kotor and a visit to Our Lady of the Remedy, the fortress of San Giovanni and the Kastel Sv. Ivan are worth the hike.

As we made our way down off of the wall, we passed the Church of St. Mary Collegiate, walked through Milk Square and took a path around the back of Old Town. Ducking quickly into the tiny Montenegrin Orthodox Church for a quick look-see, we then found our way to the Gurdić Bastion (parts of which date from the 13th century) on the south end of town. The drawbridge stretches out over the Gurdić Spring.

Walking along the roadway, we headed back toward the Sea Gate. Entering the Old Town once again, we opted for a little shopping and some gelato before it was time to make our way back to Dubrovnik. As we were in the front of the Old Town, we learned that a bike race was finishing up. Could this be why the road was closed earlier? Not wanting to risk finding the road closed again, however, we decided to go back the way we had come…by ferry.

Aside from a little longer wait at the border, we made it back to Dubrovnik without incident, even making it down the hill into our Airbnb parking expeditiously! While I was happy to have had the time we did in Kotor, I wish that we had had more, even having had the time to spend the night.

Oh well, we will have to make another trip to Montenegro!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Old Town, Kotor, Montenegro

http://Stari grad, Kotor, Kotor Municipality 85330 Montenegro
Address: Stari grad, Kotor, Kotor Municipality 85330 Montenegro
Hours: 24 hours daily
Admission: free

Cathedral of Saint Tryphon

Address: Trg Sv. Tripuna 336, Kotor, Kotor Municipality 85330 Montenegro
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: 3 euros per person

Church of St. Luke

Address: Trg Sv. Luke, Kotor, 85330, Montenegro
Hours: 0800-2000, daily
Admission: free

Church of St. Nicholas

Address: Trg Sv. Nikole Stari grad bb, Municipality Kotor 85330, Montenegro
Hours: 0800-2100, daily
Admission: free

Saint Michael’s Church

Address: Square of Our Lady of the Angels, 85339 Starigrad Kotor, Montenegro
Hours: unknown
Admission: 2 euro

Montenegrin Orthodox Church

Address: unknown
Hours: unknown
Admission: free

Airbnb-Mery Room 1

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/42226101?source_impression_id=p3_1651936434_2otNyd3LEIY%2BmrVg

The Road Less Traveled

The interstate is usually the way to travel for efficiency, but sometimes, the most picturesque scenery is on the highways and backroads.

Veteran’s Day is one that is taken very seriously in Wyoming and South Dakota. Though it worked in my favor at Devil’s Tower, gaining me free admission, it also made it a bit difficult to find a place to have lunch. In a area of the state, where there isn’t an abundance of fast food, the best option is to support the local establishments and on this day, some of the few available were closed in observance.

Instead of heading back to the interstate, I decided to head over to the nearby town of Hulett, grab a bite to eat and then take route 24 to Belle Fourche, South Dakota, my next stop.

What a great detour! There’s no other way to put it…Huelett resembles a movie set. If the main street was made of dirt, you would almost expect to see covered wagons and horseback riders passing through and securing their rides to hitching posts. Filled with charm and only 445 residents, it is actually one of the larger towns in the area and where you would hang your hat if you desire to spend the night near Devil’s Tower.

A general store, market, campground, two hotels, museum, art gallery and restaurants are all available here. It’s also a good place to fill up your tank before heading out on the open roads.

After grabbing a quick bite to eat, I began my trek back to South Dakota.

The day was bright and sunny and generally a beautiful, scenic drive. Occasionally, I ran into historic markers detailing past events like Custer’s 1874 Expedition. Over 1,000 men were sent under the direction of General George Armstrong Custer in 1874 to these Black Hills, to scout for a new fort location. The discovery of gold, however, had major impact on the area with miners rushing to harvest the bounty and ultimately helping to open the northeast Wyoming Territory to settlement, with towns like Hulett and others springing up quickly.

Now, if I thought Hulett was a tiny town, Aladdin was even smaller…population 15! Standing at the crossroads of routes 24 and 11 is the Aladdin General Store which dates back to 1896 and was originally called the Wyoming Mercantile. It is now the heart of the community.

About one and a half miles east of the town is the Aladdin Coal Tipple, a historical site which dates back to the late 1800s. The area is fenced off for safety reasons, but placards provide an overview of the coal mining in the area and the purpose of the tipple. There is a small parking area and a path leading up the hill for a different view of the hoist house and the opening of the mine.

Jumping back on route 24, I continued my journey until I reached the South Dakota border once again. Though I had to adhere to a tight schedule due to the shortened winter day, I still had a few stops planned in South Dakota.

Wyoming had not been in my original plans, but I am glad that I was pointed in that direction. There were many areas of geological interest that I had to pass by, due to lack of time, like the Vore Buffalo Jump. Wyoming is home to many dinosaur and paleontology attractions throughout the state such as the Wyoming Dinosaur Center, the University of Wyoming Geological Museum, the Tate Geological Museum at Casper College and the Paleon Museum in Glenrock. And of course, 96 percent of the amazing Yellowstone Park is located in Wyoming. There is a lot to see and do!

Time to make a plan for my return trip!

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Hulett, Wyoming

http://www.visithulett.com/

Aladdin, Wyoming

https://travelwyoming.com/cities/aladdin

Close Encounters

In the 1977 hit motion picture, Close Encounters of the Third Kind, a man’s encounter with a UFO leads him to a landmark mountain where the government is attempting to communicate with extraterrestrials.

I was only ten years old when the movie was released and remember sitting in the theater, half fascinated and half terrified; my youthful naivete leading me to somehow believe that what I was seeing really existed. Of course, we scanned the darkened skies during the evenings, watching for anomalies, but now, there was this weird shaped mountain somewhere, where extraterrestrials were hiding out, waiting to abduct innocent people like me!

The blockbuster movie captivated the masses and paved the way for similar movies and television shows and its innovative special effects initiated what was to come.

While enroute to Rapid City, South Dakota, I decided to engage other travelers in the gatehouse in the Minneapolis airport. Listening to their conversations, it was evident that they had traveled there many times and I was eager to know what attractions they suggested that I visit. Of course, topping the list was Mount Rushmore, the Crazy Horse Memorial and the Badlands, but one caught me off guard.

“Do you remember the movie, Close Encounters of the Third Kind?” I was asked by a man going on a hunting trip. “The mountain tower that was featured in the movie is just across the border in Wyoming, only a couple hours away. It is worth the drive.”

There was no thinking about this. I knew that I was going to move heaven and hell to see this and more importantly photograph it for my mom, a huge fan of the movie.

Setting out early on my second day in South Dakota, it was cold but clear. Merging on to the interstate, I headed west, marveling at how little traffic I encountered, crossing into Wyoming. Turning from the highway at Sundance, I headed north, the anticipation building with each mile.

And there it was!

Pulling over to the side of the road, with it still quite some distance from my location, I snapped photo after photo so that I could send to my mom…the culmination of the hints I had been texting to her as to where I was going.

Earlier in the day, I was concerned about certain locations possibly being closed for Veteran’s Day. Entering the park, however, I learned that it was my good fortune to actually be visiting on this day as admission was complimentary, saving me the twenty-five dollar entry.

Winding my way uphill, I occasionally glimpsed the tower peeking out from behind the trees until I reached the parking area where it loomed over me. After parking my car and taking a quick bathroom break, I headed toward the trail entrance.

Color caught my eye and I began to notice bits of cloth attached to many of the trees along the trail. These are prayer cloths left by practitioners of Native American religions, who believe the tower to be sacred.

I was only there to moderately hike, but after passing a sign informing climbers to register, I assumed that climbers scale the tower’s soaring, smooth walls. I later learned, however, that climbers are asked by the National Park Service to not climb in June, during the summer solstice, a sacred time. Native Americans, however, ask that the tower not be climbed at any time.

I followed the Tower Trail, passing the boulder field on a paved 1.3 mile walk around the base of the Tower. It was a lovely day with bright blue skies as a backdrop for the monolith reaching up to it. The hike was relatively easy, with views of the nearby valleys and of course every part of the tower. Signage along the path informed about the tower’s geologic history, the surrounding lands and the people who live there, the fire ecology and the nature that dwells on the tower’s lands.

Of course, the landscape looked nothing like the movie’s. There definitely was not an area with a huge mothership blasting five tuba notes in communication with mankind! However, I was glad that I had decided to cut into my tight schedule to enjoy the great outdoors and take this excursion.

Once my hike was complete, I drove back down the mountain to the base of Joyner’s Ridge Trail where stunning views of the tower are abundant. Deciding not to take another hike as I had so much more to see on my return to South Dakota, I headed toward the front of the park. Here, I encountered Prairie Dog town. Everywhere, I looked, I could see small heads popping out of the ground and little bodies running back and forth. Such a fascinating place, I stayed for longer than I had planned watching these amazing animals.

Passing through the front gates, I made a pit stop at the gift shop. Asking for advice for a nearby lunch stop, the nice saleslady directed me to the town of Hulett. With one more glance at the Tower that had sometimes haunted my earlier years, I set off to see what other close encounters I could find in Wyoming and South Dakota.

Believe me, there are many!

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Devil’s Tower

https://www.nps.gov/deto/index.htm
Address: Devil’s Tower, Wyoming 59602, United States
Hours: Open 24 hours. Visitor Center is currently closed.
Admission: $25 per vehicle (1-7 day pass), $20 per motorcycle (1-7 pass), $15 Individual on foot or bicycle (1-7 day pass), $25, Commercial Tours (1-6 people), $40, Commercial Tours (7-25 people), $100, Commercial Tours (26 or more people). Fee free days, January 18, April 17, August 4, August 25, September 25 and November 11.

Heads Up

The length of my bucket list sometimes keeps me up at night.

How will I ever complete everything?

Since many things will have to remain unchecked at least for now, due to Covid19, I am trying to enjoy some of the things that are close at hand. Maybe some things, by necessity, have suddenly appeared on my list, but some of them have always been there!

When I say close at hand, it is understandable that not being able to travel outside the country has forced us to take a closer look at the amazing places that are within our boundaries. Since I can’t go gorilla trekking in Uganda right now, I can certainly travel within the United States and mark off a few things, like Mount Rushmore.

Unbelievably, I don’t ever remember having been to South Dakota. Maybe I spent a short night while on one of my trips for work, but not enough time to see anything that this beautiful state has to offer.

Pondering my bucket list situation one night, I packed a bag and decided that I would leave for Mount Rushmore in the morning. It was now…or now (I didn’t want to say never)…and I really needed to get out of the house!

As luck would have it, it was a good travel day and I made all three of my flights, arriving in Rapid City around eleven. My rental car took me to my downtown hotel, where I dropped my bags and quickly freshened up. With sunset so early in the winter day, I knew that it was imperative to make the most of the daylight. Thankfully, Mount Rushmore is only a short drive from the downtown area and I made the trip in a quick twenty-five minutes.

As I navigated the winding road, aware that I was getting close, I looked up ahead at a passing truck and there it was! I had not been prepared to see this amazing landmark from the highway and I had to slow my speed and pull over to take a better look. It was mesmerizing!

While most people opt to visit Mount Rushmore during the warmer summer months, I realized as I pulled into a mostly empty parking garage that visiting during the winter has its advantages.

And disadvantages.

Improvements to the property certainly cannot be done during the busy times of the year, so as I made my way down the Avenue of the Flags, which display flags of all fifty states, the District of Columbia and the three territories, Guam, American Samoa and Virgin Islands, I had to maneuver around construction equipment, detours and closed off areas. As I arrived on the Grand View Terrace, I finally laid my eyes on the colossal sculpture, sans the massive crowds that flock here during the summer…another advantage of my November visit.

Looking down at the unoccupied amphitheater seating, it dawned on me how many people I could actually be sharing this space with. Yes, it was cold, but there was no one to my left and no one to my right…perfect for social distancing.

As luck would have it, the weather, which could be volatile at this time of year was cooperating. Although a few clouds dipped low, occasionally obscuring the upper portions of the the carvings, blue skies prevailed and we were all treated with beautiful views.

After feasting my eyes, I headed inside the Visitor’s Center to warm up and learn about the famous carvings’ history, much of which I did not know.

Mount Rushmore was the brainchild of Gutzon Borglum. With an idea of carving the four Presidents, Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln, from the waist up, construction began in 1927 and took fourteen years to complete. When funding ran out, only the heads were completed. The Presidents represent the nation’s birth, development, growth and preservation. There are many exhibits in the Visitor’s Center explaining their construction as well as a short film.

Although I saw the entrance to the Presidential Trail, which gives hikers a closer look, I was not quite sure of how much time it would entail. With my plans including continuing on to the Crazy Horse Memorial, a short drive away, I decided to skip this portion of the grounds.

Jumping back into my now freezing car, I cranked up the heat and headed out to Highway 244. Not long into my journey, I learned that I wasn’t quite done with my visit to Mount Rushmore. From the roadway, behind the park, there is a great view of the profile of George Washington’s 60 foot head, 20 foot nose and 18 foot wide mouth. Pull over to the side of the road or in the adjacent parking lot and keep an eye out for the many mountain goats that hang out in the area.

This was the icing on the cake!

Twenty four hours earlier, I had not planned to be here and now I was gazing up at the profile of our nation’s first president.

With my head held high, I gave myself a personal pat on the back for making this happen. I then placed a mental check on my bucket list while looking up at this important piece of our nation’s history.

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Mount Rushmore

https://www.nps.gov/moru/index.htm
Address: 13000 Highway 244, Building 31, Suite 1, Keystone, SD 57751
Hours: October 1 through March 13, 0500-2100, March 14 through September 30, 0500-2300.
Admission: free admission
Parking: Cars, Motorcycles and RVs, $10.00 per vehicle. Seniors (ages 62+), $5.00 per vehicle. Free for Active Duty Military.

At Marye’s Heights

More than 100,000 casualties occurred within a twenty mile radius of Fredericksburg during Civil War battles. As a result, more than 15,000 Union soldiers found their final resting place in the Fredericksburg National Cemetery.

After four major battles, Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, Wilderness, and Spotsylvania Court House, the remains of deceased Union and Confederate soldiers were buried in shallow, often unmarked graves around the battlefields. It was deemed necessary that a national cemetery at Fredericksburg be established to provide a proper burial site for these soldiers.

The Fredericksburg National Cemetery, part of the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania Country Battlefields Memorial National Military Park is located southwest of the city’s historic downtown in Marye’s Heights, a Confederate stronghold during the Battle of Fredericksburg. It was constructed in 1866 and is one of fourteen national cemeteries managed by the National Park Service.

Parking near the Visitor’s Center at the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park, we found it to be closed and its exterior and surroundings under construction. Thinking that we would take a walk on the trail that lead from this location, we ducked into the Museum Shop to obtain a map. Finding the trail to be extensive and because it was the end of the day, we decided to take a walk through the cemetery instead.

Following the natural contour of the landscape, we walked uphill, noting some of the monuments dedicated to Union soldiers and officers such as the Fifth Corps Monument, which honors the service of the corps and the Monument to Colonel Joseph Moesch, commemorating the officer who was killed while leading his regiment of 83rd New York Volunteers in the Battle of Wilderness. In the center of the cemetery, we found the Humphrey’s Division Monument, surrounded by upright cannons. This monument honors the men under General Humphrey that led an unsuccessful attack on Confederate troops holding Marye’s Heights. Over 1,000 soldiers were killed or wounded in this engagement.

*Monument to the 127th Regiment of the Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry*

Other small markers were scattered throughout the cemetery. Though bearing no names, they offered a longer number followed by another smaller number. While over 15,000 soldiers are interred here, only 2,473 were identified and these are the graves of the unknown. The upper number identifies the plot, while the second number identifies the number of soldiers buried in that plot. The soldiers that were identified are buried in individual graves, marked with a rounded headstone bearing the soldier’s name and state.

The cemetery is also the final resting place for an additional three hundred veterans of the Spanish-American War, World War I and World War II.

Though no music can be heard during our visit, the beat of a poem surrounded us. Near the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Monument, and throughout the cemetery, we noticed plaques containing verses from Theordore O’Hara’s, “The Bivouac of the Dead” (1847), which commemorated the American dead at the Battle of Buena Vista, from the Mexican-American War.

The muffled drum’s sad roll has beat
The soldier’s last Tattoo;
No more on life’s parade shall meet
That brave and fallen few.
On fame’s eternal camping ground
Their silent tents to spread,
And glory guards, with solemn round
The bivouac of the dead.
No rumor of the foe’s advance
Now swells upon the wind;
Nor troubled thought at midnight haunts
Of loved ones left behind;
No vision of the morrow’s strife
The warrior’s dreams alarms;
No braying horn or screaming fife
At dawn shall call to arms.
Rest on, embalmed and sainted dead,
Dear as the blood ye gave,
No impious footstep here shall tread
The herbage of your grave.

A powerful testament to those who gave their lives during these tumultuous times.

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Fredericksburg National Cemetery
https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/national_cemeteries/virginia/Fredericksburg_National_Cemetery.html
Address: 1013 Lafayette Boulevard, Fredericksburg, Virginia 22401
Hours: Dawn to dusk
Admission: free

Hoofing It Thru Havana

Especial del dia…pollo con queso en trigo.

As I sat in the sanwicheria, eating my chicken and cheese sandwich, I contemplated how to tackle parts of the city which I had not seen that day or on my previous day’s ventures.

Should I make my way to the waterside area bordering Avenue del Puerto for its many museums and churches, venture out to the Malecon’s architectural wonders and take in the fresh sea air or head south to the Almacenes San Jose Artisans’ Market to seek out some exclusive treasures?

Finally deciding to head north, I made my way along the narrow, dusty streets stopping to capture the captivating architecture and scenes of daily life on my camera. What fascinated me most, however, were the small markets and the carnicerias…not for what they offered or for their appearances, but how locals were required to stand outside in long lines to purchase products. I was a bit confused with the markets, especially, as people stood with their noses pressed against the windows while shopkeepers unlocked the door and allowed one person inside at irregular intervals. After speaking with my host, I learned that purchases are regulated by the government and it is sometimes difficult for locals to obtain necessities. Thankfully, drinks (beer, water and soda) and food were provided by my host and charged to my account, so I never had to figure out how to gain admission into these exchanges.

Continuing on, I decided to conquer the northern part of the city, starting with the Museum of the Revolution. After paying my admission and checking my backpack in the baggage room, I made my through the former Presidential Palace, which dates back to the initiation of its construction in 1913. The awe-inspiring building was decorated by Tiffany’s of New York, contains a jaw-dropping double staircase and many exquisite rooms including the Salón de los Espejos (Hall of Mirrors), which resembles the room in the Palace of Versailles, the Salón Dorado, used for banquets and decorated in Louis XVI style, the Despacho Presidencial, the President’s office where Fidel Castro was sworn in in 1959 and the chapel with its Tiffany chandelier.

*Salón de los Espejos* (*Hall of Mirrors*)

Though I was originally unaware of Cuba’s history, especially during the revolutionary period, the displays, though mostly captioned in Spanish, contain much documentation and photographic evidence of Batista’s overthrow and a somewhat skewed view of Castro’s seizure of power. There is a large array of artifacts, clothing (including blood-stained and bullet riddled uniforms), letters, documents, weapons and newspapers. If you look carefully or have a guide point it out to you, you can spy the bullet holes in the walls, near the staircase, from the students’ attempt at overthrowing the government in 1957.

In the rear of the building you can find the Granma, the vessel that brought Castro, Guevara and eighty-two others to Cuba in 1956 with the purpose of overthrowing the regime of Fulgencio Batista. Due to preservation purposes, be warned, the ship is partly obscured by the surrounding glass and continuously guarded. There are other vehicles associated with the revolution surrounding the pavilion, including planes, rockets and an old postal van that was used as a getaway car during the 1957 attack. In the courtyard and throughout the museum, there were many art pieces by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.

*Sculpture by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.*

In addition to seeing many other tourists within the museum, I was a bit taken aback to find many locals as well. I later learned, however, the museum was designed primarily to help Cubans understand their own history.

Exiting the museum, I stopped to take a look at the fragment of the former city wall and the SAU-100 tank used by Castro during the 1961 Bay of Pigs battle. Just beyond these landmarks, I made my way through the Plaza Trece de Marzo, passing the statue of patriot José Marti on horseback, a gift from U.S. donors through a fund initiated by the Bronx Museum of the Arts. The original bronze statue of Marti on horseback, by equine sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington (from which this was modeled) can be seen in New York’s Central Park.

Walking a ways on the Paseo de Marti, again, I was in awe of the architectural gems. Although some were a shadow of their former selves, you could see the artistry that still prevails. This must have been a beautiful place to walk in its heyday and today is still a nice place to stroll with its colorfully, tiled walkways, large shade trees and dedicated effigies.

Crossing the traffic circle near the Spanish embassy, I walked up to the monument that we had passed earlier in the day during my tour…that of General Maximo Gomez, a commander in the wars for independence. The statue is well maintained and frequented by youngsters who used the wide open area to skate.

As the breeze from the Bay of Havana beckoned me toward the water, I found myself at the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, one of the four historic forts that defended Port Havana. Built more than 400 years ago, San Salvador de la Punta Castle is also one of the three fortresses that appear on the Cuban coat of arms.

Castle La Punta and Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, the fort I had visited on my tour earlier during the day, were both built on either sides of the channel’s entry. For centuries, a chain barrier was stretched across the canal to prevent access into the port. If this did not deter marauders, pirates and anyone else with ill-intent, there were many large cannons pointed toward the water.

Today, the castle’s moat is no longer functional and the castle no longer serves in its original capacity. Renovated in 2002, to restore it to its original historic appearance, its interior houses the Castle Museum. There are several rooms that inform about the castle’s history and construction, displays of naval models, various objects from sunken Spanish fleets and information about underwater archeology and the slave trade. Intricate models of other castles in Spain, Italy and Cuba can be found on the lower level and many cannons and artillery can be found on the upper level. Don’t plan on asking for any assistance, the staff has other things to do during the mid-day hours! Can anyone say siesta?

After taking in the castle’s interior, make sure to walk around the promenade that surrounds the castle. Here, you can check out dedications to other castles, statues, cannons and fantastic views of the channel, Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, La Cabana and the Malecón. Take a moment to cross back over the roadway to check out the Monument to the Eight Medical Students, a Greek-style temple, built in 1890, in memory of the students executed in the city in 1871, who were accused of violating the grave of a Spanish journalist and the Real Carcel de La Habana, the remains of a 19th century jail where political figures were incarcerated.

*Monument to the Eight Medical Students*

At the beginning of my afternoon, one of the options I considered was making my way along the waterway on the Avenue Del Puerto. I had already seen so much of Havana and there was still so much on my agenda, especially in this area. It was hard to believe I had already seen so many interesting places.

With the walkway bordering the channel nearby, I decided that that would be my general direction. Sunset was many hours away, leaving me with ample time to continue my explorations…what else would I find in this beautiful, old city?

To be continued…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Museo de Revolucion

Address: Calle Refugio 1 entre Monserrate y Zulueta, Havana 10600 Cuba
Hours: 0930-1600, daily
Admission: Adult Nationals, $8 CUC ($8 US), Under 12 years, free. Adults, International, $10 CUC ($10 US) Guided tours, $2 ($2 US), only available in Spanish. Ticket office open from 0930-1600.

Plaza 13 de Marzo and Statue of José Marti

Address: Agramonte (y Genios), Havana, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Monument to General Maximo Gomez

Address: Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta

Address: Paseo de Marti Prado y Av. del Puerto, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0900-1700, Wednesday to Sunday
Admission: $6 CUC ($6 US)

Monument to the Eight Medical Students

Address: 4JWR+4W, Havana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Welcome To The Jungle

Live oaks, alligators, birds and buddhas.

In Louisiana, you can find live oaks, birds and alligators almost anywhere…but a buddha?

Avery Island, the birthplace of Tabasco® pepper sauce, is one of five “islands” rising above south Louisiana’s flat coastal marshes. Owned over the past 180 years by the Marsh, Avery and McIlhenny families, the island’s 2,200 acres is covered in lush subtropical vegetation and majestic live oak trees covered in Spanish moss. What’s underneath, however, is what makes it fascinating…a deposit of solid rock salt thought to be deeper than Mount Everest’s height.

Since, tourists can’t visit the salt mine, they should be contented to visit the natural spectacular that lies above, Jungle Gardens.

After our tour of the Tabasco® Factory, we made the short trip to Jungle Gardens, just down the road. Although it’s been said by many foreign visitors to the island that they are shocked that more people do not walk around the premises and prefer to drive…maybe its because locals know how exhausting the extreme humidity can be on hot days. Though it was not so hot and humid on the day we visited, we opted to drive the four and half mile route and enjoy the beauty of the gardens at designated stops.

A tour can be accessed on your cellphone (in either English or French) and you can learn about the many stunning attractions within the garden’s boundaries.

First on the list, the live oaks. When I think of where I grew up, this is what I remember…the centuries old trees with limbs so large and heavy that they sometimes rest on the ground and are covered in Spanish moss and resurrection ferns. Hundreds of live oaks were planted on the island from 1860 to the 1920s and line the roadways, cover the property and provide shelter for picnickers and those seeking sanctuary from the scorching Louisiana sun. One of the most significant in the gardens is the Cleveland Oak, named for Grover Cleveland, the two-term U.S. President who was a friend of Joe Jefferson. Jefferson was the actor of Rip Van Winkle fame, who owned nearby Jefferson Island. After two trips to Louisiana, President Cleveland received the honor of having two oaks named after him, one on Jefferson Island and one one Avery Island…after the President apparently hugged both trees. The tree in Jungle Gardens is about 23 feet in circumference and over 300 years old.

Another famous tree, not far from the Cleveland Oak, is the Survey Tree. This tree (also called Witness Tree) was used by surveyor, Thomas Orme in 1810, when measuring the Elizabeth Hayes Tract, as point “D”. This tract was the first land purchase by John Marsh, whose descendants still own Avery Island today. This Survey Tree and a live oak, which was designated point “A” are the oldest surviving witness trees in Louisiana.

Next on the tour is Bayou Petite Anse, the waterway which runs around the west side of Avery Island and Jungle Gardens. The bayou connects to Vermilion Bay and eventually the Gulf of Mexico. Because it contains both fresh and salt water, fishermen need to obtain both freshwater and saltwater licenses to fish in this bayou.

Now, the gardens are not a zoo, but rather a natural habitat for many species of birds and animals, including the alligator. Because it is not a zoo, getting up close and personal with the alligators is possible, yet not really advised as alligators can move extremely fast. E.A. McIlhenny was the first to note the unique ways in which alligators build their nests as well as other behaviors. McIlhenny published “The Alligator’s Life History” in 1935 and to this date, it is still regarded by many herpetologists as the most accurate study of alligator behavior in the wild. A copy of the book can be purchased in the gift shop and while there, make sure to check out the preserved body of Monsurat, the largest alligator ever taken on the island (18 feet, three inches long). The best viewing area to see these sometimes massive creatures is in the Venetian Garden.

Stop number four on the tour is the Ward Boathouse which housed the 70 foot luxury motorboat of Charles Willis Ward, a friend of E.A. McIlhenny, when he was at a hunting and fishing camp in Jungle Gardens. Together these men, both avid conservationists, bought 54,000 acres of coastal marshland to the southwest of Avery Island as a waterfowl refuge. In 1911, the men gave 13,000 acres of this land to the state of Louisiana, now known as the Ward-McIlhenny State Wildlife Refuge.

Moving on, we finally arrived at my favorite part of the Jungle Gardens…The Torii Gate and the Buddha. The gate and the Buddha seem to be at odds with the Louisiana setting, yet fit so well amidst the tranquility of the gardens. It is possible that E.A. McIlhenny’s friends, Robert M. Youngs and Ernest B Tracy, knew exactly what his oasis needed when they gifted the magnificent Buddha statue to him in 1936. The Buddha was built for the Shonfa temple in northeast Peking when it was looted by a rebel General and sent to New York to be sold. Found in a warehouse Youngs and Tracy, they knew exactly where its new home should be. McIlhenny immediately decided on the location and began building a garden, temple and lagoon with arched stone bridge, filling the area with beautiful and rare Asian plants and tall Chinese bamboo. The serene setting is one to relish and you should spend adequate time here enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. Also, if you are lucky, you may encounter local Buddhists conducting ceremonies at various times during the year, most notably on Buddha’s birthday.

Once you’ve noticed the beautiful Chinese bamboo near the Buddha temple, you will notice that it grows everywhere in the gardens. In fact, Jungle Gardens houses one of the oldest timber bamboo groves in American. When E.A. McIlhenny decided to plant bamboo, it was with the idea that both the timber and edible shoots would be beneficial to the Louisiana economy and more than sixty-four species and varieties were introduced. Keep an eye out for the most interesting of the varieties still in existence, including the “Robert Young” near the Camillia Study Garden, the large, timber-type “Moso” and “Henon” bamboo near Bird City and a small patch of “Meyerii” bamboo located near the old Jungle Gardens entrance gate.

Continuing our journey, we came to the Wisteria Arch. Though not yet in bloom, you can envision how lovely it must be to drive through a purple tunnel and breathe in its bouquet. Though about a hundred yards shorter now than it once was, getting to see this blooming marvel is a must…and even if it is not in bloom, you can only imagine.

Just near the Wisteria Arch is my other favorite part of the gardens, Bird City. Set a ways down from the road is a lofty Observation Tower that awaits visitors who can gaze upon the rookery where snowy egrets reside and come to nest every spring. This pattern has continued since 1895 when McIlhenny, then a young man, decided to create a nesting ground for egrets over water where they prefer to nest. Hand raising eight Snowy Egrets, he finally freed them for the migration south. The next spring, six of the eight returned, pairing off and hatching eight more chicks. Sixteen years later one hundred thousand birds had returned reviving the dwindling Louisiana egret population. This is a haven for bird watchers as many other birds frequent the area, including herons, teal, ducks, coots and other non-wading birds. It is truly a spectacle to see the mass of white flitting to a fro on the bamboo raised platforms as well as the other animals that make their home here. As you take a walk down the path to the water’s edge, keep a look out for turtles and alligators basking themselves in the sun’s warmth.

For the dendrophiles out there, a treat awaits you on the path to the Observation Tower… .a Queer Tibertan Evergreen. This tree looks similar to a cypress tree and is one of the sole survivors of the Coal Age, having been found in a remote Tibetan valley.

Just before reaching Bird City is the Palm Gardens. McIlhenny was facinated with palms and cacti and discovered that they grew well in this particular site, an old mining sand pit. Here you can discover Sago palms, Chinese Tung Oil trees as well as ferns and bamboo.

Another uniquely cultivated area is the Sunken Gardens. Once an engineering marvel, this area was designed to slow the rush of rainwater from the frequent thunderstorms that plague the area. This space was designed to not only aid in the drainage process but also act as a peaceful, shady area with access to the old nursery. Though I took a quick walk around this area, it seems that it has fallen into a bit of disrepair. Apparently, you can still stroll through the site of the old nursery to see camellias and azaleas, however, it was late in my visit and I opted out of that decision.

Just before the Sunken Gardens lies the former home of Edward Avery McIlhenny. Returning to Avery Island in 1898 and taking over the family business, he built this house near Bird City. The home was burned to the ground in 1925 and quickly rebuilt. The home is not open to the public and appears to be under some sort of construction. Maybe a home tour in the future?

I have been to many touristy spots throughout the world and seem many famous landmarks. Yet…there’s nothing like a warm spring day in Louisiana enjoying the flora and fauna that I grew up with. As children, we don’t seem to appreciate all that is around us, taking it for granted. I guess it takes being away for awhile and seeing it again with fresh eyes.

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Jungle Gardens

http://www.junglegardens.org/
Address: Hwy. 329, Avery Island, LA 70513
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Self-guided tour, Adults, $8.00, Children, $5.00. Self-guided tour+Tabasco® Factory Tour combo, Adult, $12.50, Child, ages 5-12, $9.50, Senior, $11.25.
Getting There: Take US 90 Exit 128A on LA 14 toward New Iberia for approximately three quarters of a mile. Take a right on LA 329, and it is 7 miles to Avery Island’s TABASCO® and Jungle Gardens.