©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.
Heading so far south into New Mexico had me wondering if we had made the right decision going so far out of our way. But, I was told we couldn’t miss one of the state’s natural wonders…
Carlsbad Caverns.
As we headed farther south, we noticed fields of oil wells pumping out their liquid gold, so it was no surprise upon our arrival that many of the hotels, ours included, catered to long-term guests in the petroleum industry. This meant, however, that we were able to secure a larger room with a kitchen and an early breakfast in the morning as many of these workers make these hotels their home away from home.
Since Carlsbad Caverns was located about 20 miles southwest of the city center, we were packed up and grabbing a bite to eat with the oil field workers so that we could make our arrival before the opening of the Visitor’s Center. Even though it wasn’t yet the height of tourist season, we anticipated a large number of visitors and wanted to be one of the first in line since we had only half a day to experience the caverns and then make it to our next destination, over three hours away.
Winding our way up to the Visitor’s Center, we secured a parking spot and found ourselves fifth in line. As anticipated, by the time the doors were unlocked, a line snaked to the parking lot behind us. Using our America the Beautiful Pass for admission, we also signed up and paid for the ranger-led tour of the King’s Palace, a part of the caverns off limits except when accompanied by park personnel. We also opted to hike to the cavern entrance instead of taking the elevators. At the time, I really did not have an opinion about either, however, being accompanied by my son, he insisted that we hike, a decision I would later appreciate.
Since we were told we were unable to enter the cavern for another half hour, we spent some time inspecting the museum exhibits. As the appointed time neared, we all gathered near the door, expecting a ranger to come over and unlock it or have it magically swing open. When this didn’t happen, we all paced and glanced at our watches, thinking that our precious time in the cavern was dwindling. Eventually, my son tried the door, finding it unlocked! Yes, we were unable to go to the cavern until 0830, however, we all could have walked the trail to the starting point! What do they say about sheep and the cliff?
When we reached the gathering point, a ranger greeted us and gave us some important information about our trek. From here, we would walk to the cavern entrance a short distance away and after our visit, we could either hike back out or take the elevator back to the Visitor’s Center.
And so it began.
As we started our walk, we soon saw the giant, dark, gaping maw that was the access to the caverns. Much larger than I ever anticipated, I watched the bats circling near and from the entrance as we walked back and forth along the hairpin trail into the abyss. One thing we had learned from the ranger was that during the evening, the park hosts its nightly Bat Program which allows visitors to experience the wonder of thousands of bats flying out of the cavern and into the night sky (April to October) from the amphitheater at sunset. With regret, we wished that we had known of this event so that we could have journeyed here the night before. On this day, however, we would have to be content to watch the bats flying to and fro above our heads.
Cold and damp, we were glad that we had opted to don pants and pullovers and of course sneakers for the loose gravel and dirt path. Into the darkness, we proceeded, following the 1.25 mile Natural Entrance Trail and the occasional sign directing us to specific items to note. Extremely steep, we lost about 750 feet…equivalent to walking up or down a 75-story building…for about an hour.
As we made our way, we reflected on the fact that this was what sixteen-year old Jim White first experienced in 1898 when he stumbled upon one of the largest cave systems in the world, Carlsbad Caverns. Here, while we had explicitly placed lighting, well-maintained trails and a cafeteria a short distance away, he had explored with homemade torches, string to find his way back, food and water.
Little by little, he and a friend mapped the enormous caving system, naming each of the areas with monikers of what it reminded him of. Whale’s Mouth, with its draperies and flowstone, The Green Lake Room for its, yes, green lake, The Lion’s Tail for its stalactite and popcorn and the Temple of the Sun with its tall columns, stalactites and stalagmites.
Finally, we approached the Big Room. Glancing at our watches, we had a decision to make…head left toward the cafeteria to await our tour of the King’s Palace or keep going a short distance and then return the way we had come at our tour’s appointed time. Opting for the second choice, we continued through the impressive large limestone chamber, which is almost 4,000 feet long, 625 feet wide and 255 feet tall at its highest point. The fifth largest chamber in North America, it is also the twenty-eighth largest in the world. Following the snaking loop trail, we skirted thousands of rock formations, delicate sculptures, columns, cave bacon and popcorn, tubes, spires, fossils, ribbons, drapes, curtains, stalagmites, helictites, stalactites, totem poles, flowstone, soda straws and more all in the 357,469 square feet of the Big Room. As mesmerized as we were, we had to turn back to meet our guide, however, we knew that we would come this way again, shortly.
Gathering in the cafeteria area (which was not in operation at the time), we joined about thirty other visitors and our ranger for what was to be a one and a half hour, 1 mile guided tour through four highly decorated cave chambers into the deepest portion of the cavern…830 feet beneath the earth’s surface.
Following our ranger down an 80 foot descent, we marveled at the details and rooms for which Jim White had named the King’s Palace for its opulence. Listening to stories about the cave’s geology and early explorer’s experiences, we made our way through the first of the four chambers known as the scenic rooms, which contains a spectacular large castle-like formation in the center of the 100-foot tall expanse.
Continuing on to the Papoose Room, located between the King’s Palace and the Queen’s Chamber, we entered a small room which was similar in context to the King’s Palace. Hundreds of impressive stalactites clung from the ceiling and stalagmites sprouted from the ground.
Next was the Queen’s Chamber, considered the most beautiful of the four scenic caves, with its highlight being the 40-foot tall floor to ceiling drapery column and the delicate formations resembling lace and filigree.
Finally, we headed back through the King’s Chamber on our way to the final chamber in the assemblage, the Green Lake Room, passing the Bashful Elephant, which indeed, does appear to be a small elephant viewed from its rear. The Green Lake Room is the uppermost of the four rooms and named after the deep, malachite colored lake in the corner of the room. An interesting tale was related by our guide about how in the 1940s, the military, using the caverns as an emergency fallout shelter, used the lake to look for ripples caused by an atomic bomb test miles away. As none ever appeared, it was believed that Green Lake Room could be a viable shelter in case of a nuclear attack.
Finally, after hearing many tales of Jim White’s explorations, we were all seated on a bench. Our ranger asked us to completely turn off our cellphones and then he proceeded to shut off all lights in the chamber. At this moment, you realize that you have never experienced total darkness, even when you thought you had…at night…in your bedroom. This was something different…until I moved my arm and my Apple Watch gave the area around us a greenish glow, flashing 11:25. Embarrassed for ruining the moment, I quickly removed my watch and placed it under my leg! However, for the mistake, it did give us a small glimpse of how Jim White might have viewed the space with a single candle.
Making our way back to the tour starting point, we then resumed our explorations of the Great Room back from the spot we had left earlier. There was much to see including the Stone Lily Pads, table-like shelf stone formations at the edge of a now dry pool, the Silent Bell, the Crystal Spring Dome which is the largest active stalagmite in the cavern and having a bell-like appearance, the Rock of Ages, a huge column, the Chinese Theater, which contains beautiful columns stalactites and stalagmites and the Dolls Theater, a recessed area with soda straws and small columns.
All in all, our trek throughout the three miles of rooms and passageways of the main cavern took us much longer than expected. The sheer size of the cavern was unlike anything we had ever experienced and it was mind blowing that there are still parts undiscovered and more than 27 miles of passages are not open to the public! There were times when my mind began to wander, thinking that if an earthquake would suddenly happen in this area while we were so far below ground…I had to redirect my thoughts because, well, I just couldn’t fathom the consequences!
Finishing our circuit, we found ourselves back at the elevators and waited patiently for our return to the Visitor’s Center and civilization!
With our tour of what some call “one of the seven wonders of the world”, we headed back to Carlsbad in anticipation of the next leg of our journey.
Returning north, we headed toward Artesia where we took a westerly turn. A short time after our turn onto Route 82, I spotted an enormous sculpture resembling an oil rig. Anxious to get to our destination, but also curious about what it was, I made a U-turn and parked. While the city also boasts one of the best collections of bronze sculptures in the area and a diverse public mural program which celebrate its rich history, this major piece of sculptural work is the one to see if you only have time to devote to a single piece. The Derrick Floor, is dedicated “to the men and women who take risks and do the work to find, produce and refine New Mexico oil and gas.” The drilling rig is a 34-foot high cast with a four man crew created in 125 percent life size scale and sits in a pool of cascading water. It was designed by Vic Payne and dedicated in April of 2004.
My curiosity sated, we headed back to the road and continued our journey west through Lincoln National Forest toward Alamogordo and White Sands. Though most of our journey in New Mexico had been through dry, scrubby barren land, we welcomed the change of scenery as the landscape changed to a lush mountainous and forested region. Though there wasn’t much to see, besides a couple of shops and not many places to stop (plan your bathroom breaks accordingly), we finally emerged on the far side to some amazing mountainous overlooks in Cloudcroft. Happy for the opportunity to stretch our legs we pulled over to take a few photos.
Alamogordo welcomed us with a hot dry wind. As we glanced out toward the area where White Sands National Park was located, we could see a haze in the air and I wondered if conditions would make our planned excursion the next day a no-go. But first, in order for that excursion to take place, we had one thing to do.
Find some snow saucers and ski wax!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Carlsbad Caverns
- https://www.nps.gov/cave/index.htm
- Address: 3225 National Parks Highway, Carlsbad , New Mexico 88220
- Hours: Visitor’s Center, 0800-1700, daily. Last cavern entrance ticket sold, 1415. Last cavern entrance, 1430. Elevator into the cavern, 0830-1430. Last elevator out of the cavern, 1645. Hike into the cavern, 0830-1430, Last time to hike out of the cavern, 1530 (complete hike out by 1630). National park closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. Free entry for America the Beautiful Pass and other passes (see website for more information).
- Admission: Adults (16 years and older), $15.00, Children (under 16 years), free.
Artesia Bronze Sculptures
- https://www.artesiamainstreet.com/history-in-bronze
- Address: West Main Sreet, Artesia, New Mexico 88210
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: free