Tag: cemetery

The Fountain of Youth

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The oldest continuously inhabited European-establlished settlement in the contiguous United States…what a mouthful!

Do you happen to know what city this is?

St. Augustine!

Many years ago, I resided in the state of Florida. During that year-long stay, I spent a lot of time traveling abroad with my job, but strangely, I didn’t spend a lot of time checking out the state that was my home.

Maybe I just wasn’t as adventurous as I am today.

Maybe I just wasn’t informed.

Maybe I spent most of my time tanning at the pool and the beach or hanging at Disneyworld (yep…).

Had I known then what I know now, I would have spent more time exploring, much like the pioneers that landed on Florida’s shores hundreds of years before. Recently, I had read a bit about the city of St. Augustine and I was enthralled with its history and with the photos of its old town. It appeared to be so charming and a bit like Europe or the Caribbean, both of which I was missing, being unable to travel freely because of Covid.

Tired of being on lockdown at home and feeling the need to venture out to a state that offered fewer restrictions, I packed up and headed to St. Augustine to see if it was as true in life as it was depicted in print.

After arriving in Jacksonville and picking up my rental car, I made the hour-long drive south and checked into my hotel. There appeared to be so many things to do in this small city, I didn’t know where to commence.

I decided to begin where it all began.

Juan Ponce de Leon was a Spanish explorer and conquistador who led the first official European expedition to Florida. Born in Spain in 1474, he first arrived in the Americas with Christopher Columbus’ second expedition in 1493. After serving as a top military official in Hispaniola, he then led an expedition to Puerto Rico, a colony in which he served as the first governor. Under the advice of King Ferdinand, he led an expedition to La Florida and landed on the eastern coast of what is now the United States on the feast day of St. Augustine.  The city served as the capital of Spanish Florida for over 200 years and was later settled by Pedro Menendez de Aviles.

Though idealized as a great explorer, people always associate Juan Ponce de Leon’s search with the Fountain of Youth, rather than settlement of new lands. This is a widely known story, however, it is one that historians call a myth. Today, the public’s fascination with staying young, leads those to have a bit of faith in the story.

While I wasn’t seeking youth during my visit, I was seeking adventure and education. Heading over to the Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park, I made my way through the entrance, handing my ticket over as I walked into the Spring House, a 60-year old coquina building, which houses the original spring recorded in a seventeenth century land grant, supposedly associated with Ponce de Leon. Grabbing a cup, I examined the exhibits showing Ponce de Leon’s interaction with Timucua Indians and filled my cup from the aquifer. Taking a sip, I was a bit disappointed. It was not as cold as I would have expected and the minerals gave the clear liquid a strange taste. Thinking I would stick with my bottled Dasani, I headed outside to see what else I could find.

Examining my map and activity schedule, I learned that many of the exhibits were offered at specified times. Since the next presentation at the nearby planetarium was about to begin, I decided that I would snag a seat and relax there for a few minutes. The presentation offered an explanation of how sailors of the past navigated the vast seas by the stars above them. It was actually more interesting that I had anticipated and I learned a great deal.

The next stop was the Discovery Globe Theater. Almost a full house, I sat in one of the few vacant seats at the front of the room and was not sure what I was there to witness. A short movie precluded the presentation and I was taken aback when the narrator said that we would be shocked as to how primitive it would be compared to technology of today…he wasn’t lying. The curtain was opened and there was a giant globe (hence the name)! Planet earth. As this giant 30-foot high globe was lighted, it illustrated the routes of the explorers to and from the New World, the lands of La Florida, the Universities that were established in the Americas and the settlements and cities that they founded. Yes, it was certainly nothing like today’s technology, however, back when this was first introduced, it presented to standing room only crowds. Ok…so I liked it a little bit. Actually, I liked it more than I will probably ever will admit. It was kind of like visiting Disneyworld’s Tomorrowland for the first time…you wait for a phenomenal show and it is more like a walk back in time, but a walk that fills you with sentimentality.

Finally, I made my way throughout the remainder of the park. There were exhibits detailing Timucua burials and a Timucua village, with it centerpiece being the Church of Nombre de Dios. This church is a recreation of the original that stood on this location in 1587, built with cypress and palm thatch. Living history interpreters are present in the village to answer questions and help you understand what day to day life was like in the village.

Walking along the pathways, I dodged a plethora of peacocks while admiring the lovely, well-manicured grounds, highlighted by tropical trees, plants and water features. The male peacocks strutted their stuff while the females hung back in the grassy areas, some perched on the antique firearms. Heading toward the back of the park, I took a stroll out on the Historic Landings Riverwalk, past the Peace Memorial and the Ponce de Leon statue and checked out the Spanish Lookout, arriving just in time to witness the shooting of the cannon.

Quite a crowd had gathered to observe the historical firearms presentation but it was the Spanish Lookout that I though to be more interesting. The original watchtower that stood in this location was significant in the settlement’s history as it was what was the undoing of St. Augustine in June of 1568. Because of a light in the watchtower, Sir Francis Drake, with two thousand men and forty-two ships, was guided toward shore. Had they not seen the light, they might have missed the town, however, they made their way inland, sacking, looting and burning the entire settlement and wooden fort. Today’s visitors can ascend the tower, affording themselves a bird’s eye view of the waterways upon which Sir Francis Drake menacingly made his way to St. Augustine.

With ringing ears from the cannon’s discharge, I resumed my walk along the pathways, paying heed to the framework reconstruction in the inner field. When complete, this project will give visitors the ability to experience the First Settlement as previously inhabited by Pedro Menendez de Aviles.

Other items of interest on the premises were the Chalupa of St. Augustine where the settlement’s boats were constructed and a blacksmith shop offering demonstrations on the creation of various tools used during the period.

While the park offers a wide array of experiences, it is not a large scale facility and easily navigated in a couple of hours. It is a great way to start your education and exploration of the historical city of St. Augustine, founded by Ponce de Leon and settled by Pedro Menendez de Aviles.  While there are many things to see inside of the park, make sure to pay your respects to Menendez’s statue at the park’s entrance and make sure to not miss the oak tree “tunnel” that fronts the roadway to the park!

As I made my way out of the park and walked along under the canopy of oaks, I couldn’t wait to see what else there was to discover in this historical city!

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Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park

  • https://www.fountainofyouthflorida.com/
  • Address: 11 Magnolia Avenue, St. Augustine, Florida 32084-2827
  • Hours: 0900-1800, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $18.00, Seniors (60 years +), $17.00, Children (6-12 years), $10.00, Children (under 5 years), free. Reduced rates for St. John’s County residents.

Holy Hollywood

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Cemeteries are a place of rest.

A holy place.

They can also be a place of beauty and of history.

In my lifetime, I have visited numerous cemeteries throughout the world. Famous cemeteries…like Pere Lachaise in Paris and La Recoleta in Buenos Aires. Sculptural ones…like Monumentale in Milan. Historical ones…like Gettysburg National Cemetery and Arlington National Cemetery.

Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond fits all three categories.

Situated very close to my home, Hollywood Cemetery is a place that I love to visit. While it is a peaceful and beautiful drive throughout, it is also a place for scenic views of the James River and a place to visit the resting places of historic citizens and soldiers.

Designed in 1847, the cemetery was constructed as a garden, steering away from the typical grid-like cemeteries normally seen in cities. This was done to accommodate visitors…to give them a place of solace, serenity and invitation. The landscape design left large stately trees in place including poplars and white oaks. There are over 2,000 trees in the cemetery today, many predating the cemetery, including the holly trees from which the cemetery adopted its name.

While one might think that parking at the entrance gates and making your way on foot is the way to visit, keep in mind that the cemetery encompasses a sprawling one hundred and thirty-five acres characterized by rolling hills and winding paths. Unless you are looking to incorporate some strenuous exercise into your tour, you might want to drive to each general location where parking is available on the side of the drives or in available spaces.

The best course of action is to first drive along Eastvale Avenue, passing the Confederate General Section, marked by an arch and a cannon, and on to Waterview Avenue. Pull over near the Palmer Chapel Mausoleum and President’s Circle for amazing views of the James River.

Confederate Generals

Palmers Chapel Mausoleum

In President’s Circle, you can pay tribute to John Tyler and James Monroe, the fifth and tenth presidents of the United States . President Monroe was laid to rest in Hollywood Cemetery in 1858, twenty-seven years after his death in New York City. His unique tomb is known as “The Birdcage” due to its unique structure. His wife, daughter and son-in-law are buried nearby.

Gravesite of President James Monroe

President Tyler was buried in the cemetery in 1862. Although his death was the only one in presidential history not to be officially recognized in Washington D.C. due his allegiance to the Confederate States of America, the Confederate President, Jefferson Davis, hosted a stately affair. Near the end of Waterview Avenue you will find the gravesites of President Jefferson Davis.

Gravesite of President John Tyler
Gravesite of Confederate President, Jefferson Davis

In this general area, you can also find the burial places of six of Virginia’s past governors, including Fitzhugh Lee (1886-1890), Charles T. Offerall (1894-1898), John Garland Pollard (1930-1934), William Smith (1946-1949), Claude A. Swanson (1906-1910) and Henry A. Wise (1856-1860) as well as some beautiful large crypts on Eliptic Avenue and the first burial site.

Crypts of Eliptic Avenue

There are some scattered parking areas near James Monroe’s tomb and there are some other interesting graves in this area.

Uphill from the entrance of the cemetery, further along Idlewood Avenue, stands a grand piece of architecture, a ninety foot granite pyramid completed in 1869. It is a monument dedicated to the 18,000 Confederate enlisted men buried nearby. In the circle at the rear of the monument, there is a marker which honors the memory of those former members of the John Marshall Corps of Cadets who gave their lives in behalf of Duty, Honor and Country. You can also find the gravesite of Raleigh E. Colston (1825-1896), American professor, soldier, cartographer, writer and brigadier general who served in the Confederate States Army during the American Civil War.

George E. Pickett’s grave is also in this location. Most remember Pickett’s Charge, the futile and bloody Confederate offensive on the third day of the Battle of Gettysburg, in which he was one of the commanders. His wife Sallie is buried nearby.

One of my favorite gravesites is not very far from the pyramid. On a corner, you will spot a black, cast-iron Newfoundland dog. This statue stands guard over the grave of a little girl who died in 1862. This gravesite is one sought out regularly by visitors and you can often spot gifts left on her tomb. In fact, dogs are a common theme throughout the cemetery, almost as common as angels!

There is much to occupy your time and explore in Hollywood Cemetery. You can purchase a map at the front office for $1 or load one on your phone, or just wing it and see what you can find on your own.

Hallowed grounds, but truly the most picturesque I have ever visited.

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Hollywood Cemetery

A Wild Time in the Wild, Wild West

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In 1876, outlaws, gamblers and gunslingers like Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane arrived in Deadwood in search of gold and a wild time in the wild, wild west! Coming across a gulch full of dead trees and an abundance of gold, it is where they made their life and where they subsequently met their death.

Today, Deadwood is a place where visitors still flock to make their fortune in the casinos, but also to experience the countless activities and attractions that can be found in this small city.

Deadwood was not on my radar when I arrived in South Dakota. In fact, the only time I had ever really heard the name was as the title of an HBO American Western television series that aired from 2004-2006. When seeking ideas from others on things to do, the usual attractions came up, but so did Deadwood. Doing a quick search, I discovered many exciting things but I knew I would have to be selective as my time would be limited.

Parking at the Visitor’s Center, I ventured inside hoping to get some maps and brochures. Instead, I received some wonderful information from the lady who worked there. The most valuable being that Mount Moriah Cemetery was still open.

Having just driven there a few minutes earlier, I had found the gates closed and assumed that it, along with many other attractions, was closed for the season. Discovering that I could park and enter the side path next to the closed gates, I headed back in that direction.

This final resting place of western legends, murderers, madams and pillars of Deadwood’s early economic development is built on a hill overlooking the city. Walking along the paved paths in the late afternoon light, I quickly found the gravesites of Wild Bill and Calamity Jane. The cemetery is laid out in terraces, on multiple hillsides and is fairly easy to navigate. The most heartbreaking section, however, is toward the rear where there are many small headstones of children who died of the smallpox, scarlet fever and diphtheria epidemics from 1878 to 1880.

Also at the rear of the graveyard is a beautiful bird’s eye view of Deadwood Gulch. The American flag that flies at this point is never lowered to honor all veterans who have served our country. Another section near this area is Potter’s Field where there are many unclaimed and unknown dead. Keep an eye out amongst the trees for the numerous deer that like to hang out in the cemetery.

A visit to the cemetery should take about forty-five minutes to an hour. During the high season when the Mount Moriah Cemetery Visitor Center is open, there is a fifteen minute video and information about the cemetery history, native and introduced plant species, cemetery symbolism and death statistics within Deadwood from 1875 to 1900.

Driving back towards town, I knew that it was nearing the closing hour for many of the museums and shops. I decided to secure parking at the Visitor’s Center and take a walk through the picturesque downtown, a National Historic Landmark.

Starting at the southwest part of Main Street, I made my way northward, meandering past numerous shops, hotels, casinos, restaurants and bars all residing in well preserved Gold Rush-era architecture. My favorite discoveries were the amazing chainsaw art at Dahl’s and in front of the Four Aces Casino where I found the city’s statue of Wild Bill Hickok. After hanging out with Will Bill for a few moments, I wandered back up Main Street, enjoying the ambiance of the twilight and the awakening of the Deadwood night.

The idea of staying into the evening and finding a nice place to enjoy dinner and drinks was extremely appealing, however, with almost an hour’s drive ahead of me, I decided to head home and see what cool nightlife I could find in Rapid City’s downtown.

If you are visiting South Dakota, a trip to Deadwood should warrant more than an afternoon, since there is so much to experience. The Deadwood Brothel, The Broken Boot Gold Mine, The Days of ’76 Museum, Mount Moriah Cemetery, a little bit of gambling and much more…I was short of time, but you shouldn’t be!

My mild time could be your wild time! Make it happen!

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Deadwood Visitor’s Center

  • Address: 1-99 Siever St, Deadwood, SD 57732-1366
  • Hours: Summer, 0800-1900, Winter, 0800-1700. Restrooms and trolley waiting room. Free parking.
  • Admission: free

Mt. Moriah Cemetery

Wild Bill Hickok Memorial Statue

  • Address: 531 Lower Main Street, Deadwood, South Dakota 57732
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Dahls Chainsaw Art

  • Address: 596 Main Street, Deadwood, South Dakota 57732

At Marye’s Heights

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More than 100,000 casualties occurred within a twenty mile radius of Fredericksburg during Civil War battles. As a result, more than 15,000 Union soldiers found their final resting place in the Fredericksburg National Cemetery.

After four major battles, Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, Wilderness, and Spotsylvania Court House, the remains of deceased Union and Confederate soldiers were buried in shallow, often unmarked graves around the battlefields. It was deemed necessary that a national cemetery at Fredericksburg be established to provide a proper burial site for these soldiers.

The Fredericksburg National Cemetery, part of the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania Country Battlefields Memorial National Military Park is located southwest of the city’s historic downtown in Marye’s Heights, a Confederate stronghold during the Battle of Fredericksburg. It was constructed in 1866 and is one of fourteen national cemeteries managed by the National Park Service.

Parking near the Visitor’s Center at the Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park, we found it to be closed and its exterior and surroundings under construction. Thinking that we would take a walk on the trail that lead from this location, we ducked into the Museum Shop to obtain a map. Finding the trail to be extensive and because it was the end of the day, we decided to take a walk through the cemetery instead.

Following the natural contour of the landscape, we walked uphill, noting some of the monuments dedicated to Union soldiers and officers such as the Fifth Corps Monument, which honors the service of the corps and the Monument to Colonel Joseph Moesch, commemorating the officer who was killed while leading his regiment of 83rd New York Volunteers in the Battle of Wilderness. In the center of the cemetery, we found the Humphrey’s Division Monument, surrounded by upright cannons. This monument honors the men under General Humphrey that led an unsuccessful attack on Confederate troops holding Marye’s Heights. Over 1,000 soldiers were killed or wounded in this engagement.

Fifth Corps Monument
Monument to Colonel Joseph Moesch
Monument to the 127th Regiment of the Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry
Humphrey’s Division Monument
Humphrey’s Division Monument

Other small markers were scattered throughout the cemetery. Though bearing no names, they offered a longer number followed by another smaller number. While over 15,000 soldiers are interred here, only 2,473 were identified and these are the graves of the unknown. The upper number identifies the plot, while the second number identifies the number of soldiers buried in that plot. The soldiers that were identified are buried in individual graves, marked with a rounded headstone bearing the soldier’s name and state.

The cemetery is also the final resting place for an additional three hundred veterans of the Spanish-American War, World War I and World War II.

Though no music can be heard during our visit, the beat of a poem surrounded us. Near the 127th Pennsylvania Volunteer Monument, and throughout the cemetery, we noticed plaques containing verses from Theordore O’Hara’s, “The Bivouac of the Dead” (1847), which commemorated the American dead at the Battle of Buena Vista, from the Mexican-American War.

The muffled drum’s sad roll has beat
The soldier’s last Tattoo;
No more on life’s parade shall meet
That brave and fallen few.
On fame’s eternal camping ground
Their silent tents to spread,
And glory guards, with solemn round
The bivouac of the dead.
No rumor of the foe’s advance
Now swells upon the wind;
Nor troubled thought at midnight haunts
Of loved ones left behind;
No vision of the morrow’s strife
The warrior’s dreams alarms;
No braying horn or screaming fife
At dawn shall call to arms.
Rest on, embalmed and sainted dead,
Dear as the blood ye gave,
No impious footstep here shall tread
The herbage of your grave.


A powerful testament to those who gave their lives during these tumultuous times.

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Fredericksburg National Cemetery
https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/national_cemeteries/virginia/Fredericksburg_National_Cemetery.html
Address: 1013 Lafayette Boulevard, Fredericksburg, Virginia 22401
Hours: Dawn to dusk
Admission: free

 

The First American Saint

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As a Catholic school girl, it was de rigueur to learn about the many saints of my religion.

There are over 10,000 named saints and blessed people. Christians began honoring other Christians around 100 A.D. with many of the first saints being martyrs who had given up their lives during the persecution for their faith, a custom that was appropriated from the Jewish faith in which prophets and holy people were revered and honored with shrines.

While a schoolgirl, the most beloved saints, and the ones I remembered most, hailed from other countries; Saint Francis of Assisi (Italy), Saint Patrick (Ireland), Saint Anthony of Padua (Italy), Saint Christopher (Canaan), Saint Patrick (Ireland), Saint Theresa of Avila (Spain), Saint Bernadette (France). In 1975, just after I began third grade, I remember my teacher, Sister Mary Cecilia, giving us some important information. The first American-born saint had been canonized…Saint Elizabeth Seton.

I don’t remember learning much more about her at the time…learning to duplicate Sister Cecilia’s neat cursive handwriting seemed much more crucial.

Years later, during a visit to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, a familiar name popped up on the map in the nearby town of Emmitsburg, Maryland…that of Elizabeth Seton.

The fact that a shrine to this American saint was located in a very small town in Maryland was quite puzzling as I knew that she was a New York native. Gettysburg had been my main destination on this trip, but once I learned of this shrine, it was a place that I simply had to visit and the mystery as to how St. Elizabeth Seton ended up here would be solved.

An arresting film in the museum presented St. Elizabeth Seton’s life in a brief twelve minutes.

Elizabeth Ann Bayley was born in New York City on August 28, 1774 in the Episcopal faith. Married at the age of nineteen to William Magee Seton, she had five children. During a trip to Italy with her husband, she was moved by the deep faith of those who practiced Catholicism. Before their return home, however, William passed away from tuberculosis, leaving her a widow. Seeking consolation and the desire to experience the deep faith that she had witnessed in Italy, Elizabeth decided to convert to Catholicism two years later, despite criticism from friends and family,

Portraits of the Seton Family, Mother Seton, top right

Working as a teacher for a short time, in order to support herself and her children, she was approached by a visiting priest, the Abbe Louis William Valentine Dubourg, a member of the French émigré community of Sulpician Fathers and then president of St. Mary’s College of Baltimore Maryland. Abbe Dubourg extended an invitation for Elizabeth to move to Emmitsburg and establish the Saint Joseph’s Academy and Free School, dedicated to the education of Catholic girls on land bestowed by Samuel Sutherland Cooper, a wealthy convert and seminarian at the newly established Mount Saint Mary’s University.

On July 31, 1809, Elizabeth Seton established the first congregation of religious sisters to be founded in the United States, which was dedicated to the care of the children of the poor. With the initiation of Sisters of Charity of St. Joseph’s, Elizabeth adopted the title of “Mother Seton”. Mother Seton, along with the sisters, worked tirelessly until her death on January 4, 1821, at the age of 46.

Touring the museum, I learned a great deal about Elizabeth Seton’s remarkable life from illustrations, anecdotes, 19th century artifacts and letters written by the saint. The 40 Years A Saint exhibit detailed how she became a saint and highlighted the event on September 14, 1975, when Pope Paul VI proclaimed her a saint.

“Elizabeth Ann Seton is a saint. St. Elizabeth Ann Seton is an American. All of us say this with special joy, and with the intention of honoring the land and the nation from which she sprang forth as the first flower in the calendar of the saints. Elizabeth Ann Seton was wholly American! Rejoice for your glorious daughter. Be proud of her. And know how to preserve her fruitful heritage.” –Pope Paul VI

This exhibit’s focal point is the actual banner which hung in St. Peter’s Square on the day of her canonization.

Moving on to the basilica located upstairs from the museum, I was extremely moved by the the artistic beauty of the building. Originally designed as a chapel for the sisters of the Daughters of Charity, upon her beatification it was decided that it would serve as her National Shrine. Completed in 1965, the main feature is the altar for Saint Elizabeth. Here, in the Altar of Relics, is where Saint Elizabeth Seton’s remains are entombed in a copper casket enclosed in marble and topped with a statue of the saint, sculpted in Italy and depicting Mother Seton dressed in the habit that she and the Sisters of Charity wore beginning in 1809.

Altar of Relics

Stepping out of the basilica into the beautiful sunny afternoon, a day fit for visiting a saint, I ventured through the well manicured lawn to the Stone House, one of the first homes that Elizabeth Seton lived in when she first arrived in Emmitsburg. The home, which had been expanded over the years to accommodate the growing number of sisters, is usually available for self-guided tours. Due to the Covid restrictions, however, this and none of the other buildings throughout the premises were open. There was an audio recording that I was able to play and listen to while I peered into the windows at the period furnishings that still decorate the structure.

Moving through the gardens, I made my way over to the White House, the first house of the Sisters of Charity. Originally called “St. Joseph’s House” for Elizabeth Seton’s high regard of the saint, it is fully furnished with items that include those in existence for nearly 200 years and includes a schoolroom, much like the one Saint Elizabeth taught in, and a small chapel. Again, the interior was not open to visitors, but a recording was available at the back door.

The cemetery was a short walk away. As Mother Seton, her sister-in-law, Harriet, and other sisters walked through the woods searching for a cemetery site, the story has been passed on that Harriet threw an apple core against an old oak and declared it to be her final resting spot. Sadly, it was where they laid Harriet to rest only four months later.

Surrounded by a high wall set with bronze stations of the cross, the cemetery is the final resting place of many graves of Sisters and Daughters of Charity. As I walked toward the center, I discovered the Mortuary Chapel. Built by Elizabeth’s son, William to honor his mother, her remains laid in rest here for only a short while. In 1846, they were transferred to the chapel’s vault and later exhumed for her beatification. As I saw earlier, they rest in the basilica.

Mortuary Chapel
Former Resting Spot of Mother Seton
Stations of the Cross

My visit to the National Shrine of Saint Elizabeth Seton had come to an end. So much information was imparted on me that I felt like once again, I was at St. Joseph’s School in Sister Cecelia’s religion class. Thinking that I was going to only learn about Gettysburg and the ghosts of Civil War past, I discovered so much more about the first American saint.

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The National Shrine of Saint Elizabeth Seton

Hallowed Ground

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Many soldiers gave their lives in the Battle of Gettysburg.

The battlefield’s landscape is dotted with numerous monuments which commemorate the Union and Confederate troops that fought there. More monuments can be found at the National Cemetery, which together with the battlefield form the Gettysburg National Military Park. Though many of dead soldiers’ souls may still roam the battlefield, it is there, in the cemetery, that you are reminded of who they were from their headstones.

After the Battle of Gettysburg, the toll on both sides consisted of the loss or mortal wounding of 10,000 lives, 30,000 injuries and 10,000 soldiers captured or missing. Because of the mass casualties, most of the deceased soldiers were hastily buried in shallow graves, marked by their names scrawled on wooden crosses. Exposure to the elements began to cause the erosion of the impromptu graves and it was determined that there was an immediate need for proper burials.

The decision was made to build a cemetery, using the site from which the Union center repulsed Pickett’s Charge, and ground was broken four months after the battle on October 27, 1863. Union soldiers were relocated to the cemetery and efforts were eventually made to move the Confederate soldiers’ remains to Virginia, Georgia and the Carolinas, although there are a few that remain in Gettysburg National Cemetery.

Having been to Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond, Virginia, I have seen the graves of these Confederate soldiers. I was anxious to walk around the historic cemetery in Gettysburg to observe any similarities, but I also knew that the Gettysburg National Cemetery was famous for more than gravesites, markers and monuments. There is something that makes this cemetery stand apart from landmarks in the city and other Civil War cemeteries.

On November 19, 1863, at the cemetery’s dedication, President Abraham Lincoln stood among these departed souls and delivered a two-minute address about the sacrifices of war and the necessity of holding the Union together.

The Gettysburg Address.

Four score and seven years ago our fathers brought forth on this continent, a new nation, conceived in Liberty, and dedicated to the proposition that all men are created equal.

Now we are engaged in a great civil war, testing whether that nation, or any nation so conceived and so dedicated, can long endure. We are met on a great battle-field of that war. We have come to dedicate a portion of that field, as a final resting place for those who here gave their lives that that nation might live. It is altogether fitting and proper that we should do this.

But, in a larger sense, we can not dedicate — we can not consecrate — we can not hallow — this ground. The brave men, living and dead, who struggled here, have consecrated it, far above our poor power to add or detract. The world will little note, nor long remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here. It is for us the living, rather, to be dedicated here to the unfinished work which they who fought here have thus far so nobly advanced. It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaining before us — that from these honored dead we take increased devotion to that cause for which they gave the last full measure of devotion — that we here highly resolve that these dead shall not have died in vain — that this nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom — and that government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth. —Abraham Lincoln, November 19, 1863

As I entered the gates on Taneytown Road, I immediately came upon the podium which was erected for visiting presidents who attend memorial ceremonies. To the right, is Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address Memorial.

The memorial is a semicircular stone monument which includes a bronze bust of the president, sculpted by Henry K. Bush-Brown, and two tablets on either side, one of which highlights the short speech. Though many think that such a profound address would have been inked on many pages, one of the greatest highlights of American history was only ten sentences long.

Though the memorial commemorates the Lincoln and the Gettysburg Address, the location of the great oration actually took place about three hundred yards from this spot, so I headed in that direction determined to find where it took place.

The cemetery is designed as a wide semi-circle with the Soldier’s National Monument at its center. Radiating from the monument are sections divided by state; smaller states closest to the monument and larger states along the outside. The Soldier’s National Monument, designed by the Batterson-Canfield Company is a mighty granite shaft rising from a four cornered pedestal and bearing sculptures crafted by Randolph Rogers representing war, history, plenty and peace. Glancing to the top of the shaft is the statue, “Genius of Liberty”, crowning its peak. The monument is notable as being near the location of the dais of the dedication ceremony where Lincoln delivered the Gettysburg Address.  Numerous smaller monuments also dot the cemetery’s landscape, including a memorial to the Union soldiers of New York and a monument to Major General John F. Reynolds.

Soldier’s National Monument
Memorial to the Union soldiers of New York and Monument to Major General John F. Reynolds

As I made my way around the grand monument and then the remainder of the cemetery, I encountered impeccable funerary grounds, maintained by the National Park Service, with a landscape dotted with cannons, concrete pathways and marble headstones.

As I reverently made my way through the premises, I discovered that although the majority of the graves accommodate the remains of Union Soldiers, the government later added sections for veterans from the Spanish-American War, World Wars I and II, the Korean War and the Vietnam War, bringing the total of veterans that are laid to rest here to more than 6,000.

When I first entered the grounds, the rain which had started during my tour of the battlefield had slowed to a hazy mist. The gloaming of the late afternoon, in addition, added to the sobering realization of just what I was surrounded by.

Not only is it a place where a speech of great magnitude was articulated by one of the greatest men in our country’s history, but it is a place where immeasurable bravery and patriotism was laid to rest. It is a place where we were reminded by President Lincoln why our great country was worth fighting for. A hallowed ground…not only for the lives lost, but the lives that continued and still continue on.

In this election year, it is important to remember the vision of our founding fathers, the lives that were given to bring our country to where it is today and to enjoy the freedoms that we have been given.

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Gettysburg National Cemetery

 

First Cemetery of Athens

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Athens is a place where historical landmarks are a dime a dozen.

The Acropolis, Temple of Zeus, Hadrian’s Arch (to name a few)…you can take you pick of so many to fill your time while visiting the ancient city.

Since I’ve been to most of these places, I was on the lookout for something different. Thinking back on my visit to the Keremeikos Ancient Cemetery, I realized that there had to be more modern cemeteries within the city, much like those of Paris (Pere Lachaise), Milan (Monumentale) and Buenos Aires (La Recoleta).

After conducting a bit of research, I discovered that the official cemetery of the City of Athens dates back to 1837. A prestigious burial place sought out by both Greeks and foreigners, it was the first to be built within the city’s limits and located not far from the Panathenaic Stadium.

Setting out in the warm, sunny afternoon, I made the journey quickly and soon found myself at the top end of Anapafseos Street.

Admittedly, the entrance to the cemetery was a bit disappointing as it is scaffolded, presently under construction. One inside, however, I was greeted immediately on my left with one of the cemetery’s three churches, the Church of Saint Theodores (the other two being Saint Lazarus and Saint Charles). Though the church was not open, I enjoyed its blue painted architecture and single slim belltower standing tall in the bright afternoon.

Making my way through the more elaborate tombs located in the forefront of the cemetery, I admired those of Heinrich Schliemann, German businessman and archaeological excavator of the cities of Troy, Mycenae and Tiryns, Ioannis Pesmazoglou, Greek banker, economist and politician and Georgios Averoff, businessman, philanthropist and one of the great national benefactors of Greece. 

Tomb of Heinrich Schliemann
Tomb of Ioannis Pesmazoglou
Tomb of Georgios Averoff

Making the steep walk towards the rear of the cemetery, I was in search of something special…the tomb with the famous sculpture of a dead young girl called I Koimomeni (“The Sleeping Girl”), created by Yannoulis Chalepas. A bit of exploration was in order, as there are others that appeared to be very similar. I soon found the serene sculpture immortalized by sculptor Chalepas and wondered about her fate. It was later that I learned that the sleeping girl, Sophia Afentaki, was born in 1855 and died of tuberculosis at the age of 18 years.

“The Sleeping Girl”

Continuing my exploration, I was saddened by the overgrown condition of many parts of the cemetery and took extra time to pay respects to many of the graves in the area. Many of the graves and tombs were obviously quite expensive and many housed the remains of many members of Greek families and on the opposite end of the spectrum, there were also many grave sites that were quite modest.

Winding my way deeper and deeper into the cemeteries bounds, I discovered unique sculpture, touching mementos, fresh and dying flowers, distinctly crafted lanterns and fading photos. What I didn’t encounter, however, were other visitors. The cemetery was perfectly empty and quiet.

After a while, the peace and quiet became quite disconcerting. Realizing that I was probably a bit vulnerable, alone in a cemetery, even in the daylight, I decided to head back to the front of the graveyard, passing the burial areas reserved for Protestants and Jews.

The Cemetery of Athens was a unique experience, one that most tourists do not search out despite it’s historical and cultural significance. Though I did see a couple of other tourists in the beginning of my visit seeking out some of the famous grave sites, there were not many others that I ran across.

If it is historical or architectural significance that you seek or a desire to search out some of the famous grave sites, take a trip to the First Cemetery of Athens, a peaceful haven that will not disappoint.

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First Cemetery of Athens

  • Address: Logginou 3, Athina 116 36, Greece
  • Hours: 0800-2000, daily
  • Admission: free

Notable Burials within the First Cemetery of Athens:

  • Archbishops Christodoulos, Chrysostomos II, Seraphim and Dorotheus
  • Hero of Greek War of Independence, Odysseas Androutsos
  • Singers, Sotiria Bellou, Stratos Dionysiou, Stelios Kazantzidis, Dimitros Mitropanos, Demis Roussos, Rita Sakellariou, Sofia Vembo, Nikos Xilouris (and composer)
  • Poets, Odysseas Elytis, Nikos Kavvadias, Kostis Palamas, Kostis Palamas, Alexandros Rizos Rangavis, Giorgos Seferis, Angelos Sikelianos, Alexandros Panagoulis (and politician, democracy activist)
  • Actors, Jules Dassin, Dimitris Horn, Manos Katrakis, Vassillis Logothetidis, Orestis Makris, Thanasis Veggos, Jules Dassin ( and director), Dimitris Papamichael (and director)
  • Actresses, Tzeni Karezi, Marika Kotopouli, Ellie Lambeti, Zoe Laskari, Katina Paxinou, Aliki Vougiouklaki
  • Prime Ministers, Georgios Kafantaris, Andreas Papandreou, George Papandreou, Charilaos Trikoupis, Xenophon Zolotas
  • Politicians, Theodoros Kolokotronis, Alexandros Mavrokordatos, Melina Mercouri, Andreas Michalakopoulos, Grigoris Lambrakis, Nikolaos Bourandas (Police and Fire Service General), Yannis Makriyannis (and merchant, military officer author), Nikos Zachariadis (General Secretary of the Communist Party of Greece from 1931 to 1956)
  • Sculptor, Yannoulis Chalepas
  • Philanthropist and businessman, George Averoff
  • Painter, Demetrios Farmakopoulos
  • Archaeologist, Adolf Furtwangler
  • Filmmaker, Humphrey Jennings
  • Statesman, Dimitrios Kallergis
  • Conductor, Pianist and Composer, Dimitri Mitropoulos,
  • University of Athens’ Greatest Benefactor, Antonios Papadakis
  • Military Dictator during the Regime of the Colonels, Georgios Papadopoulos
  • Lawyer, Alexandros Papanastasiou
  • Director, Screenwriter and Lyricist,Alekos Sakellarios
  • Feminist, Kalliroi Parren
  • Amateur Archaeologist who excavated the site of Troy, Heinrich Schliemann
  • Great Benefactor of Greece, Michael Tositsas
  • Composer, Vassilis Tsitsanis
  • Founder of Filiki Eteria, Emmanuil Xanthos
  • Member of Filiki Eteria, Ioannis Varvakis
  • Author, T.H. White
  • Architect, Ernst Ziller

One More Day

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While standing on the slopes of Pacaya Volcano, we couldn’t help but feel elated!

I can’t explain the pure joy we were feeling for having chosen to visit Guatemala and the beautiful city of Antigua…for all the things we had seen while we were there…for the friendly Guatemalans that we had encountered…for all of the beauty we had laid our eyes upon!

We were not ready for it to be over and thankfully, we were able to work out another night’s stay with our hotel (not an easy feat with the busy Holy Week)!

In order to make the most of our extra time, we were up early to hit the streets and see everything we had not yet had the time to. Believe me, there was quite a bit, plus more than we would have ever imagined.

First stop was the Cementerio General San Lázaro, just down the street from our hotel. We had not intended to stop here, but it was on the way to the our first destination. Always having been intrigued by old cemeteries, I figured it was worth a quick look.

Walking through the white arched entrance, decorated for Holy Week, we made our way through the municipal cemetery that was created in 1834 by the state major, Mariano Galvez on land that once hosted a leper’s hospital. The maze of white-washed tombs, some displaying the purple decorations for Holy week, was very peaceful and we observed the immaculate grounds. Though there were many mausoleums and smaller tombs, there were just as many that were quite grand. The small colonial church, San Lazaro, at the end of the large initial walkway, contained some interesting statues, both inside and out, and a large gold altar.

Leaving the cemetery, we made our way down the street to our original destination, Convento la Recolección, which I had spotted on my map the night before. We didn’t have any idea of what to expect here, but after paying our admission at the gate, we were blown away by what we found.

In the United States, there are so many building codes that dictate the structural integrity of a building. If a building does not meet these codes, people are most definitely not allowed to enter the premises or in some cases, even approach. On our first day, we were shocked to see how we could wander freely through the ruins of the monasteries that had no barrier walls or guard rails.

Convento la Recolección, took this to a whole different level.

We could see that this structure was missing its roof and that the front walls were crumbling, as approached on the lengthy sidewalk. There were two huge chunks of stone on either side of the sidewalk and we discovered that these were pieces of the same front walls that had collapsed during the great earthquake of 1773.

Approaching the front steps, we looked through the stone archway (surprisingly still intact), to the interior. The floor was littered with boulder-sized remains of the church’s ceiling and columns. There were no barriers or restrictions on where you could walk and we slowly and carefully made our way around the decaying floor, littered with its broken extremities, while staring upwards at the remaining walls, some still displaying its original detailing. Truly one of the most thought provoking places I have ever visited!

This architectural complex was a former church and monastery of the Order of the Recollects, initiated when in 1685, two missionaries of the friars of the Recollects arrived and sought permission for construction of the monastery. Though it was originally determined by the City Council that not enough friars were present to support the venture and that enough monasteries had been established, a royal decree was finally issued for its construction in 1700. Construction commenced in 1701 and continued until 1717 when the church was inaugurated. A short time later that year, earthquakes damaged the church and cloisters. Repairs were carried out, however, the devastating Santa Marta Earthquake of 1773, left the complex in ruins.

Today, the ruins are protected as both a national monument and as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and as we made our way out of the church, we walked into the adjacent monastery grounds. Here, the walls are still standing, but as with the church, the complex is open to the Antiguan heavens. The interior rooms and the former cloister is free of rubble, giving it a different feel than the church. Many of the walls and interior spaces were aged and decrepit, however, there were many traces of the architectural details that once graced its walls.

Heading a few blocks up the road, we found ourselves at our next stop, Convento de San Jeronimo. This complex was once planned as the College of St. Jerome by the Order of Mercy in 1757, however, in 1765, after initial construction was almost demolished, it was decided that the building would be used as the building of the Real Income Alcabalas and Royal Customs, one of the city’s top financial institutions of the time. As with most other buildings within the city, its construction was affected by earthquakes and some of its remains used as building materials for other projects within the city.

Today, the well-manicured grounds contain a multitude of flowers, shrubs and trees and provide a peaceful setting for families who desire to have a nice setting for a picnic lunch. Though the complex is not immense, it is nice to explore some of the small rooms and ascend the staircases to the top. At the north end, we looked out over the courtyard and its central fountain toward the towering Volcan de Agua in the distance.

Our final destination took us across the city, now teeming with visitors, here to see the Holy Week processions. It seemed that the city’s population had tripled overnight and we had a difficult time making our way through the parades that journeyed through the streets, now even during the daytime hours.

The festivities reminded me so much of Mardi Gras, with its vendors and convivial atmosphere, yet, without the debauchery. Many people were donning purple robes and the Holy Week processions that we had witnessed during the previous evenings, had grown in size, both in the amount of participants and the proportions of the floats. In the Tanque La Unión, the historic gathering place used by the citizens to wash their clothes during colonial times, there were countless peddlers lining its perimeter and cooking traditional Guatemalan delicacies and dishes which could be purchased. The mournful sounds of the bands could be heard throughout the city, especially in the nearby Convento Santa Clara.

Santa Clara was established in 1734 by the sisters from Puebla, Mexico and four years later, destroyed by the Santa Marta Earthquake and subsequently abandoned.

As we entered, we noticed how much larger this complex was compared to the others we had visited. It was filled with floral blooms and shrubs and like most others, missing most of its ceiling.

Most interesting, however, was the intact church’s stonework facade with is Serbian balustrade pilasters and the arched niches along the nave which served as confessionals in addition to the captivating cloister with its ancient fountain.

Walking along one of the halls, you can stand atop the extended pulpit chair and climb the one remaining stairway adjacent to the cloister. Magnificent views over the convent can be obtained here as well as of the nearby mountains.

As our day was coming to a close, we ducked into the nearby Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol, its front portico packed with those looking to purchase items from the multitude of vendors in the streets and in front of the church or just hoping to get a better view of the processions.

Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol is a smaller baroque church adjacent to San Pedro Hospital. It was designed by Nicolás de Cárcamo and named in honor of Hermano Pedro de San José Betancur, whose tomb we had seen on our second day at the Santuario San Francisco el Grande.

As we stood, once again, on the portico, we looked out into the street and noticed a brightly colored display comprised of pine needles, sawdust and flowers. When the owner of our hotel had mentioned to us that “carpets” were beginning to be laid throughout the city, we innocently envisioned something you would see at a movie screening. Suddenly, the colorful sawdust between the cobblestones and the bags of sawdust and the stencils at the market began to make sense. The night before, we had watched a lady lay pine needles in a cordoned-off section on one of the streets as we walked home. We really had no idea what was transpiring and then it all made sense as we looked down on the street below us.

These were the carpets!

But, did the processions avoid these streets that the carpets were laid down on?

As a procession made its way down our street, we watched as they paraded right through these carpets, destroying the beautiful display. After the procession was complete, there were multiple people following who swept up the remnants, leaving a scattering of sawdust wedged between the paving stones.

Walking home, we began to notice so many of these carpets or “alfombras” lining the streets. It was obvious how much work and time was devoted to these endeavors and we were mesmerized as we walked by and examined these intricate designs which sometimes take months to plan involving multiple members of families and businesses.

Around the corner from our hotel, we noticed two different alfombras being laid. We decided that we could check their progress early in the morning when we were heading to the airport.

During the early morning hours, packing up our suitcases, we were informed by the hotel staff that our driver had called and could not make it to the hotel. Since we would have to the walk the six blocks to meet him, we headed into the darkened streets, only to find them lighted by strong lamps and enlivened with loud music.

As we traversed the distance to our awaiting transportation, we discovered why he could not make it to our hotel. The streets were blocked and people had worked through the night, creating alfrombras everywhere. It was the most amazing sight…beautiful carpets stretching as far as we could see.

Though I snapped as many pictures as I could while walking, the outcome does not show you the impact of what were seeing, plus with the motion and darkened streets, my pictures were not the clearest.

If I had realized what was to come, we might have planned on leaving on the afternoon flight and spending the early morning hours walking around the city, admiring the carpets and watching the processions originate from La Merced (around 4:00 am) when the processioners swap their purple robes to black ones. Still, what we saw was one of the most intriguing spectacles, leading me to think that I need to plan a trip in the future, just to spend time inspecting the alfombras!

As our plane departed Guatemala City a few hours later, I sat back in my seat, thinking of all that we had experienced during the last few days. It was mind boggling how much we accomplished not knowing one thing about Guatemala, Antigua, it history and traditions and yet, discovered, almost by accident.

With so much more to explore in this rich country…Lake Atitlan, the ruins of Tikal, Iximche and Yaxha and miles of beach-lined coast…Guatemala deserves more than just one more day!

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Cemeterio General San Lázaro

  • Address: Calle San Bartolome Becerra, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0800-1700, daily
  • Admission: free

Convento la Recolección

  • Address: 1a Calle Poniente, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Nationals, Q5, Central American, Q15, Foreign Student Q20 (about $2.60 US) , Q40 (about $5.25 US) per person

Convento de San Jeronimo

  • Address: Alameda de Santa Lucia y 1a Calle Poniente, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Nationals, Q5, Central American, Q15, Foreign Student Q20 (about $2.60 US) , Q40 (about $5.25 US) per person

Convento Santa Clara

  • Address: 6a Calle Oriente y 2a Avenida Sur Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Nationals, Q5, Central American, Q15, Foreign Student Q20 (about $2.60 US) , Q40 (about $5.25 US) per person

Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol

  • Address: Guatemala 03001, 6a Calle Oriente No. 20, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0800-1700, daily
  • Admission: free

City of the Dead

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Is it strange to love visiting cemeteries?

Not really.

I have been to some of the most famous cemeteries in the world;
Pere Lachaise in France, La Recoleta in Bueno Aires, Monumentale in Milan, just to name a few. The history, architecture and craftsmanship that can be viewed in each of these places is unparalleled.

Having grown up in Louisiana, seeing graves that are raised above the ground is nothing new to me. Because the water table is so high, graves would fill with water and the buoyant casket would seek to float, eventually popping out of the ground. Because of this dilemma, it was decided, hundreds of years ago, that tombs would be built above the ground to house the departed. Some tombs were (and still are) built to accommodate one casket and others, built on a grander scale could accommodate an entire family…some so large that they resemble small homes or chapels. Visitors to the south, however, are intrigued with our burial system and some of the most beautiful and immense tombs can be found in many of the New Orleans cemeteries…a sort of city of the dead.

St. Louis Cemeteries 1 and 2, located near the French Quarter, are both on the National Register of Historic Places and feature the tombs of several historic individuals and families including Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau, Henriette Delille, Foundress of the Sisters of the Holy Family (presently awaiting canonization), Daniel Clark, financial supporter of the American Revolution and Jacques N.B. de Pouilly, architect of the St. Louis Cathedral.

Since I have seen some of the most famous cemeteries in the world, it was a given that I had to visit the most notable one in New Orleans, St. Louis Cemetery #1. Located a short walk from the city’s French Quarter, it was quite easy to locate, however, once I arrived, I was informed that I would be required to join a tour. With over 100,000 visitor’s each year, the cemetery has been subject to extreme vandalism. Hoping to preserve the sanctity of the cemetery, guests are now required to enter the premises with a licensed guide.

Paying my admittance fee, I waited patiently for the tour to start and was soon joined by Australians, Ethiopians and Italians, proving that curiosity about the oldest cemetery (built in 1789) and its inhabitants has a worldwide reach.

Eagerly following our tour guide, Steve, as he wove his way around the monumental tombs, we first learned how economical vaults were built into the cemetery walls. It was quite interesting to see the wall vaults stacked one above the other, with some now only partially visible near the ground, evidence that the below sea level city is sinking. These vaults contain the remains of many family members within the tomb. After the family member passes, the remains go untouched for a year and a day and then are pushed to the rear of the vault, making room for the next unfortunate soul.

In the center of the property. we witnessed white walls and roofs blocking our view of the entire cemetery. Here, the larger crypts also hold many family members within their massive walls.

With the cemetery being one of the oldest in the city, it is a given that many of the graves are in various states of repair…some taken care of by family, some by volunteers, some by process of having purchased Perpetual Care and many long forgotten. Crumbling and overgrown with moss and fern, the former graves’ appearance lends itself to the creepy image that many envision when thinking of old cemeteries and though you would think that many a horror movie would be shot here, filming is not allowed.

We waited patiently for our turn to stand in front of one of the most famous gravesites in St. Louis #1…the location where it is believed that Marie Laveau is entombed…next door to the former mayor, Dutch Morial, the first African American to hold the office. Laveau’s grave is marked with faded Xs, once a common practice in petitioning the deceased soul. It was believed that the Voodoo priestess would grant your wish if you marked the tomb, placed your hand over it, rubbed your foot three times against the bottom, placed some silver coins in the cup. Since this is actually desecration of a gravesite, it is evidently one of the reasons why visitors are only allowed in the cemetery with an escort.

We passed the tomb of Paul Morphy, who passed away in 1884 at the age of 47, and is considered to have been the greatest chess master of his era. Considered a chess prodigy, he was described by Bobby Fischer as “perhaps the most accurate player who ever lived”. His grave is aptly marked with chess pieces.

As we turned to head further into the cemetery, we could all see the tip of what appeared to be a pyramid. In much newer condition that most of the other tombs, we were informed that it belongs to the actor Nicolas Cage. Though he now resides in Las Vegas, the performer once lived in New Orleans, at 1140 Royal Street (believe it or not!) in the LaLaurie Mansion! His pyramid presently stands dignified but empty, awaiting his demise.

How is it that someone like Nicholas Cage gets to be buried in St. Louis #1? Well, if you have $40,000, you can too. The steep price will buy you a plot next to some of New Orleans’ most notorious residents.

Following our guide, we continued on to the towering Italian Mutual Benevolent Society’s marble tomb, which was designed by architect Pietro Gualdi in 1857. Designed in the Baroque style, it includes three elegantly carved marble statues of female figures; one holding a cross crowning the top, one in a niche above the engraving “Italia” and another out of view in a niche on the left representing “Charity”. It contains 24 vaults which were for the temporary use of the society’s members whose bones would remain in the tomb for about a year and then removed and placed in a receptacle in the tomb’s basement. Nearby, are the Portuguese Burial Society and the New Orleans Musicians Tombs which operate on the same premise at the Italian Benevolent Society, giving those of the association a place to be buried.

At the rear of the cemetery, we were directed to the Protestant section, which was assigned to the Christ Church (Episcopal) for the burial of non-Catholics. All that remains of this area, however, is the area between the wall vaults and some brick walls. Between 1822-1838, the burials from the Protestant section, which extended beyond the back wall, were transferred to the Girod Street Cemetery to make way for neighborhood development. What I found interesting, however, was that non-Catholic burials have always been allowed in any part of the cemetery and some Catholics were actually buried in the Protestant section.

Nearby, we found the grave of Étienne de Boré, a local plantation owner and an important person to the sugar cane industry famous for producing the first granulated sugar in Louisiana. Making the sugar cane crop profitable for local farmers, the industry still continues strong today with more than 400,000 acres of land in 22 Louisiana parishes producing approximately 13 million tons yearly and employing about 17,000 employees.

It was quite interesting and yet peaceful to walk among the decrepit graves in the cold, winter morning and I thought it a pity that others’ desecration of the cemetery had made it hard for those of us who might like to take their time wandering among the lesser know grave sites instead of being ushered along by our guide in his attempt to keep the tour at the allotted forty-five minute limit.

The cemetery has been preserved as best as it can be and with the new fees imposed by the Archdiocese, it is the hope that the cemetery will be available for all to enjoy for hundreds of years to come. Security has been added and through the hard work of the caretakers, St. Louis Cemetery #1 will remain open to the public. One caretaker devoted most of his life to the care and preservation of this historic place, Alexander “Buddy” Anspecker. Working in the location for 41 years, he could always be counted on for his dedication and descriptive tours of the historic tombs.

Finally, however, I learned something very interesting…something that brought my adventures full circle.

The day before I had sought out the LaLaurie Mansion on Royal Street. Earlier in the tour, I learned that actor Nicolas Cage had resided in the LaLaurie Mansion. On this day, however, I learned that though it was thought that Madame Marie Delphine LaLaurie had died in France, in a boar-hunting accident, a caretaker of the cemetery, Eugene Backes (many years before “Buddy”), discovered an old cracked, copper plate in Alley 4 of the cemetery. The inscription read, “Madame Lalaurie, née Marie Delphine Maccarthy, décédée à Paris, le 7 Décembre, 1842, à l’âge de 6–.” declaring that perhaps, Madame LaLaurie had returned from France to rest among the distinguished departed residents of St. Louis #1.

Though we were not made privy to the location of this copper plate, it gives rise to the notion that New Orleans’ history is quite complex and interwoven.

The walk to St. Louis Cemetery #1 is a short one and although the price a bit steep for the tours offered, keep in mind that the money is helping to preserve this treasure. Though you would never catch me in a cemetery at night, especially within a city rich in the Voodoo culture and alive with many superstitions, I was pleasantly surprised at the vast array of prominence laid to rest here. Definitely worth the visit in light of its history!

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St. Louis Cemetery #1

  • https://nolacatholiccemeteries.org/our-history
  • Address: 425 Basin St, New Orleans, LA 70112
  • Hours: 0900-1600, Monday through Saturday and 0900-1100, Sunday (last admittance 1 hour before closing)
  • Admission: $20 for guided tour. Tours last approximately 45 minutes.

The Castle in the Woods

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A chapel and a castle?

After visiting Rosslyn Chapel, take a walk down the picturesque country road, past Rosslyn Cemetery.

Taking in the beautiful countryside scenery, you will soon find yourself encountering the ruins of Rosslyn Castle, a sharp contrast to the well-preserved chapel that we had just visited.

Perched high on a bluff, in the middle of a wooded valley and surrounded on three sides by the River North Esk, are the remnants of the Sinclair family manor. Only accessible by a narrow bridge crossing a wide ravine, the remains are quite a surprise, hidden away in the dense forest.

The building of the castle was begun in 1304 by William St. Clair of Rosslyn and over the next three centuries reinforced, bombarded, rebuilt, extended, burned and all but destroyed.  Since it never was a very secure structure, it became the home for many generations of Sinclairs, until William, died in 1778.  After a visit by Cromwell’s troops, the castle was left pretty much in the same condition as it can be seen today.

While crossing the bridge, it’s difficult to imagine what may have once been here, but still impressive nonetheless.  Gone is the original Wall Tower, the earliest part of the castle and the gatehouse over the entrance, but fragments of the fore walls still stand tall at the end of the walkway.

A French influenced two story home stands to the left of the courtyard, also built by William Sinclair, when he extended the castle between 1582 and 1597.  Though the home is still in good condition, it is not accessible to the public.

As we descended a path near the start of the bridge, we walked beneath the remaining castle walls toward the river’s edge.  Here, gardens once prospered and provided food for those who resided in the castle.  The river gurgled and wound its way through the forest and we walked over the footbridge to take a closer look.  We learned later that there is a scenic river walk from the ruins of the Roslin Gunpowder Mills, through what used to be a carpet factory and cottages, across the North Esk, around the castle, below the chapel via Gardener’s Brae and to Hawthornden and beyond.

Taking the short walk on our return back to the bus stop, we stopped for a few moments to pay our respect at the Rosslyn Cemetery.

While out at Rosslyn Chapel, make time to explore the forgotten ruin, an important part of Scotland’s and the Sinclair family history.

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Rosslyn Castle