city – Snapping The Globe

The Lost City

With Mount Vesuvius looming over the city it was only a matter of time.

The story of the destruction of Pompeii has intrigued me for as long as I can remember. The thought of the citizens being buried from the ash descending from the volcano’s fiery lava, is something nightmares are made of. Having recently hiked to a nearby ridge of Guatemala’s Volcan Pacaya, I watched the lava flow quickly down it’s slopes and felt the heat emanating from the lava’s rocks. What if something causes the lava flow to change direction…my direction? Certainly, this is what the citizens of Pompeii must have thought. Only that time…it did.

For years, while visiting Rome, it was difficult knowing I was so close to Pompeii, but never having sufficient time to make the hour and a half journey. This time, I was in Naples and I had ample time. This was my chance.

Rising early, we made our way on the metro to Naples’ train station. Following directions to the Circumvesuviana train, we purchased tickets and waited patiently for the train which would take us to Pompeii. To say we were excited was an understatement and as we pulled into the station, we decided to join a tour group to make the most of our visit.

Following our tour guide into the maze of streets and buildings, we learned that in 79 AD, the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum were buried under as much as twenty feet of volcanic ash and pumice when Mount Vesuvius erupted, preserving the cities as they once were. This was the most surprising to me as I had always envisioned that most of Pompeii would be in ruins.

In 1763, Pompeii was uncovered and identified. A year later, excavations, let by Karl Weber and then, Francisco la Vega began. Preserved under the layers of ash, the wealthy city was frozen as it was on that fateful day. Fine public buildings, luxurious homes, furnishings, works of art and human bodies were entombed in the ash. Yet, no petrified human bodies that I had envisioned. Instead, where the bodies were entombed, voids were left leaving the archaeologists to fill and use as molds to make plaster casts of these individuals in their final moments of life.

As we walked along the UNESCO World Heritage Site, we discovered that as the ash buried the city, it preserved it almost immaculately. Many homes and buildings lined the cobblestones streets, some still sporting their roofs and all four walls. Inside these buildings, there were some with artwork still view-able as well as ancient graffiti carved on the walls and inside rooms. Along the outsides of many buildings there were paintings and words, believed to have been a sort of newspaper for the citizens, changing often and informing of current events.

One of the first sites we visited was the Triangular Forum, which garners its name from its unusual shape. Entering through a monumental corridor we were lead into a triangular square surrounded by a 95 column colonnade surrounding an open area, making for some spectacular photographs. Our guide explained that the wide corridor might have been used as a running track or for horse races held during religious festivals.

Exiting the Triangular Forum, we found ourselves near a large theater. Although the entrance was a tight one, we waited patiently to enter the small shaft entering the semi-circular stands fronting a theater stage. Standing on the stairs, we were trying to get a great selfies when we heard singing. A great testament to the amazing acoustics of the theater, we listened intently as one of the visitors stood on the theater stage and belted out an operatic solo! Truly a beautiful moment!

One of the most interesting (and popular) sites we visited was the ancient lupanar, more commonly known in today’s terms as the brothel. Though not known whether the frescoes that decorate the upper walls were descriptions of what customers could order or just decoration, they were fascinating to see along with the stone beds.

Heading toward the Forum, we found it quite crowded as it probably was during its heyday. The Forum was the main center of life in Pompeii, where citizens met to shop and exchange information as well as experience religious and commercial events. It was here that we were able to see some of the plaster casts of the residents who were consumed by the ash and pumice. A very eerie sight indeed, one appeared to be asleep and another in a prayer-like pose. Though I had anticipated seeing these figures, I had thought they would be scattered throughout the site, not behind bars, however, I later learned that at the rear of the ancient site, in the Garden of the Fugitives, there are 13 preserved casts of the citizens that died there in the vineyard.

In the middle of the Forum we found the Temple of Apollo, one of the oldest religious buildings of Pompeii. Though the statues found here are replicas (the originals now reside at the Archaeological Museum of Naples), it is one of the most important parts of the site, as it was in this location that different gods were worshiped, including Apollo and Mercury.

It was here, in the Forum, that we parted ways with our guide who left us with some ideas on other parts of Pompeii to visit. Following her advice, we headed to the nearby Forum Baths. The interior of these baths are well preserved, and it is possible to discern how the baths were heated when they were still in use. Though they are the smallest of all the bath ruins in Pompeii, they were the most elegant and included separate entrances for men and women.

The largest house in Pompeii (30,000 square feet) is named for the unique statue in the front courtyard, The Dancing Faun, which we immediately noticed upon our entrance. The House of Faun was built in the 2nd century BC and is the most complete surviving example of a wealthy and luxurious private residence. As we walked throughout the remains of the grand home, there were many mosaics including one depicting a battle scene; the Alexander Mosaic. Today, what is seen is a re-creation, with the original residing in the Archaeology Museum of Naples.

Moving through the streets, we entered many structures; shops, homes, latrines. What we headed for next, however, was located at the far western part of the city…the oldest surviving Roman amphitheater in existence…the Pompeii Spectacula. This was the first Roman amphitheater built of stone and constructed over a century before Rome’s famous Colosseum. This immense amphitheater could seat the entire population of Pompeii and hosted all the sporting events in the city.

Though seeing the venue of ancient sporting events was quite thrilling, we were more impressed with the large exhibit in the interior tunnels detailing another important event held there in 1972…Pink Floyd: Live at Pompeii, a concert documentary film which featured the band performing in the ancient site. Why Pompeii’s ancient amphitheater? Many photographs detailed the event, yet the most compelling part of the exhibit was the story of how the director of the film dropped his passport while visiting Pompeii. Sneaking in after hours to find it, he was mesmerized by the deserted amphitheater and its silence…he decided then and there that it would make an excellent backdrop for the band’s music. As they say, the rest is history.

The Grand Palestra was next door and offered a place to get out of the intense early afternoon heat. Offering an art exhibit in one of its interior halls, we admired the wide array of modern craftsmanship before admiring the picturesque open area that was used as an exercise park and a place for youth groups. A place for sports and games, it also housed a pool for swimming.

Walking among the tombs of the Necropolis of Porta Nocera, we headed back among the maze of streets, gardens and buildings. Pompeii is such a massive archaeological site that there was so much more that we would not get to discover.

Because we had hired a tour guide, we were not given a map, being told that there were a shortage and only those purchasing an audio guide were allowed to take one. This made it quite difficult to explore all parts of the site and comprehend exactly what we were seeing. Though we searched for a “basilica” as per our tour guides instructions, we could not find what we thought we were searching for as we expected to find a church. Indeed we did find The Basilica, a lavish building used for business and the administration of justice, we did not realize our discovery until later.

Despite our directional shortcomings, we did see a great deal of Pompeii, however, to fully see the entire site, a full day or more should be allotted. With Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius nearby and limited time allowed in our schedule, we eventually had to come to the conclusion that we had seen all that we could.

Pompeii, Italy’s lost city, is something that all visitors to southern Italy should take the time to see. More impressive than I could ever imagine, we were dazzled with all that we experienced and realized that this archaeological site was one that could be seen on multiple occasions while still discovering new items of interest.

Pompeii was once Italy’s lost city…lost to the forces of nature, but found again to be learned from and explored by future generations.

Just make sure you download a map and have a plan.

Pompeii may have once been lost, but you don’t have to be!

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Pompeii

https://www.pompeionline.net/
Address: Via Traversa Andolfi 20, 80045 Pompeya, Italia, 80045
Hours: March 1-November 31, daily, 0900-1700 (last admission 1530), April 1-October 31, daily, 0900-1930 (last admission 1800). Saturday and Sunday, opening 0830. Closed January 1, May 1 and December 25.
Admission: Adult, €15.00, Reduced €9.00. First Sunday of each month, October thru March, admission is free.
Getting There: Circumvesuviana train from Naples and Sorrento, Pompei Scavi – Villa Dei Misteri station. Trains run every 30 minutes and costs €2.80. By bus, SITA from Naples and Salerno, CSTP #4 from Salerno, CSTP from Salerno #50 (express highway). By car, motorway A3, Napoli-Salerno (exit Pompeii west).
Tips: Bring water, especially during the summer months as it gets extremely hot. No large backpacks. Be prepared for massive crowds, especially during the summer months. There is a food venue behind the Forum offering options for lunch and many restaurants near the entrance.

City of the Dead

Is it strange to love visiting cemeteries?

Not really.

I have been to some of the most famous cemeteries in the world;
Pere Lachaise in France, La Recoleta in Bueno Aires, Monumentale in Milan, just to name a few. The history, architecture and craftsmanship that can be viewed in each of these places is unparalleled.

Having grown up in Louisiana, seeing graves that are raised above the ground is nothing new to me. Because the water table is so high, graves would fill with water and the buoyant casket would seek to float, eventually popping out of the ground. Because of this dilemma, it was decided, hundreds of years ago, that tombs would be built above the ground to house the departed. Some tombs were (and still are) built to accommodate one casket and others, built on a grander scale could accommodate an entire family…some so large that they resemble small homes or chapels. Visitors to the south, however, are intrigued with our burial system and some of the most beautiful and immense tombs can be found in many of the New Orleans cemeteries…a sort of city of the dead.

St. Louis Cemeteries 1 and 2, located near the French Quarter, are both on the National Register of Historic Places and feature the tombs of several historic individuals and families including Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau, Henriette Delille, Foundress of the Sisters of the Holy Family (presently awaiting canonization), Daniel Clark, financial supporter of the American Revolution and Jacques N.B. de Pouilly, architect of the St. Louis Cathedral.

Since I have seen some of the most famous cemeteries in the world, it was a given that I had to visit the most notable one in New Orleans, St. Louis Cemetery #1. Located a short walk from the city’s French Quarter, it was quite easy to locate, however, once I arrived, I was informed that I would be required to join a tour. With over 100,000 visitor’s each year, the cemetery has been subject to extreme vandalism. Hoping to preserve the sanctity of the cemetery, guests are now required to enter the premises with a licensed guide.

Paying my admittance fee, I waited patiently for the tour to start and was soon joined by Australians, Ethiopians and Italians, proving that curiosity about the oldest cemetery (built in 1789) and its inhabitants has a worldwide reach.

Eagerly following our tour guide, Steve, as he wove his way around the monumental tombs, we first learned how economical vaults were built into the cemetery walls. It was quite interesting to see the wall vaults stacked one above the other, with some now only partially visible near the ground, evidence that the below sea level city is sinking. These vaults contain the remains of many family members within the tomb. After the family member passes, the remains go untouched for a year and a day and then are pushed to the rear of the vault, making room for the next unfortunate soul.

In the center of the property. we witnessed white walls and roofs blocking our view of the entire cemetery. Here, the larger crypts also hold many family members within their massive walls.

With the cemetery being one of the oldest in the city, it is a given that many of the graves are in various states of repair…some taken care of by family, some by volunteers, some by process of having purchased Perpetual Care and many long forgotten. Crumbling and overgrown with moss and fern, the former graves’ appearance lends itself to the creepy image that many envision when thinking of old cemeteries and though you would think that many a horror movie would be shot here, filming is not allowed.

We waited patiently for our turn to stand in front of one of the most famous gravesites in St. Louis #1…the location where it is believed that Marie Laveau is entombed…next door to the former mayor, Dutch Morial, the first African American to hold the office. Laveau’s grave is marked with faded Xs, once a common practice in petitioning the deceased soul. It was believed that the Voodoo priestess would grant your wish if you marked the tomb, placed your hand over it, rubbed your foot three times against the bottom, placed some silver coins in the cup. Since this is actually desecration of a gravesite, it is evidently one of the reasons why visitors are only allowed in the cemetery with an escort.

We passed the tomb of Paul Morphy, who passed away in 1884 at the age of 47, and is considered to have been the greatest chess master of his era. Considered a chess prodigy, he was described by Bobby Fischer as “perhaps the most accurate player who ever lived”. His grave is aptly marked with chess pieces.

As we turned to head further into the cemetery, we could all see the tip of what appeared to be a pyramid. In much newer condition that most of the other tombs, we were informed that it belongs to the actor Nicolas Cage. Though he now resides in Las Vegas, the performer once lived in New Orleans, at 1140 Royal Street (believe it or not!) in the LaLaurie Mansion! His pyramid presently stands dignified but empty, awaiting his demise.

How is it that someone like Nicholas Cage gets to be buried in St. Louis #1? Well, if you have $40,000, you can too. The steep price will buy you a plot next to some of New Orleans’ most notorious residents.

Following our guide, we continued on to the towering Italian Mutual Benevolent Society’s marble tomb, which was designed by architect Pietro Gualdi in 1857. Designed in the Baroque style, it includes three elegantly carved marble statues of female figures; one holding a cross crowning the top, one in a niche above the engraving “Italia” and another out of view in a niche on the left representing “Charity”. It contains 24 vaults which were for the temporary use of the society’s members whose bones would remain in the tomb for about a year and then removed and placed in a receptacle in the tomb’s basement. Nearby, are the Portuguese Burial Society and the New Orleans Musicians Tombs which operate on the same premise at the Italian Benevolent Society, giving those of the association a place to be buried.

At the rear of the cemetery, we were directed to the Protestant section, which was assigned to the Christ Church (Episcopal) for the burial of non-Catholics. All that remains of this area, however, is the area between the wall vaults and some brick walls. Between 1822-1838, the burials from the Protestant section, which extended beyond the back wall, were transferred to the Girod Street Cemetery to make way for neighborhood development. What I found interesting, however, was that non-Catholic burials have always been allowed in any part of the cemetery and some Catholics were actually buried in the Protestant section.

Nearby, we found the grave of Étienne de Boré, a local plantation owner and an important person to the sugar cane industry famous for producing the first granulated sugar in Louisiana. Making the sugar cane crop profitable for local farmers, the industry still continues strong today with more than 400,000 acres of land in 22 Louisiana parishes producing approximately 13 million tons yearly and employing about 17,000 employees.

It was quite interesting and yet peaceful to walk among the decrepit graves in the cold, winter morning and I thought it a pity that others’ desecration of the cemetery had made it hard for those of us who might like to take their time wandering among the lesser know grave sites instead of being ushered along by our guide in his attempt to keep the tour at the allotted forty-five minute limit.

The cemetery has been preserved as best as it can be and with the new fees imposed by the Archdiocese, it is the hope that the cemetery will be available for all to enjoy for hundreds of years to come. Security has been added and through the hard work of the caretakers, St. Louis Cemetery #1 will remain open to the public. One caretaker devoted most of his life to the care and preservation of this historic place, Alexander “Buddy” Anspecker. Working in the location for 41 years, he could always be counted on for his dedication and descriptive tours of the historic tombs.

Finally, however, I learned something very interesting…something that brought my adventures full circle.

The day before I had sought out the LaLaurie Mansion on Royal Street. Earlier in the tour, I learned that actor Nicolas Cage had resided in the LaLaurie Mansion. On this day, however, I learned that though it was thought that Madame Marie Delphine LaLaurie had died in France, in a boar-hunting accident, a caretaker of the cemetery, Eugene Backes (many years before “Buddy”), discovered an old cracked, copper plate in Alley 4 of the cemetery. The inscription read, “Madame Lalaurie, née Marie Delphine Maccarthy, décédée à Paris, le 7 Décembre, 1842, à l’âge de 6–.” declaring that perhaps, Madame LaLaurie had returned from France to rest among the distinguished departed residents of St. Louis #1.

Though we were not made privy to the location of this copper plate, it gives rise to the notion that New Orleans’ history is quite complex and interwoven.

The walk to St. Louis Cemetery #1 is a short one and although the price a bit steep for the tours offered, keep in mind that the money is helping to preserve this treasure. Though you would never catch me in a cemetery at night, especially within a city rich in the Voodoo culture and alive with many superstitions, I was pleasantly surprised at the vast array of prominence laid to rest here. Definitely worth the visit in light of its history!

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St. Louis Cemetery #1

https://nolacatholiccemeteries.org/our-history
Address: 425 Basin St, New Orleans, LA 70112
Hours: 0900-1600, Monday through Saturday and 0900-1100, Sunday (last admittance 1 hour before closing)
Admission: $20 for guided tour. Tours last approximately 45 minutes.

The Red Gate

Everyone likes to make an entrance.

In 1634, construction began on strong city walls which were to protect the city of San Juan from enemy attacks. Completion of the twenty foot thick masonry walls took 148 years and six gates (puertas) were constructed to allow access through the walls into the city. Each of the gates was protected by a sentry box (garita) to shelter the guards and the entryways were secured at night with no access until morning.

The San Juan Gate (Puerta de San Juan) was the formal entrance to the city and was the point of entry where Spanish dignitaries arrived. After access was granted, these dignitaries, made their way up the cobblestone streets, to Catedral San Juan Bautista (also known as San Juan Cathedral), to thank God for their safe voyage.

The other five gates spaced throughout the three-mile wall were used to transport materials and supplies and also to allow for everyday traffic. Today, only Puerta de San Juan, and inestimable landmark, is accessible to tourists and is a must-see in the historic city. Located southwest of Castillo San Felipe del Morro, the gate is continually open and after passing through, panoramic views of San Juan Bay, the busiest ocean port in the Caribbean, Isla de Cabras (Goat Island) and a small Spanish fort, El Canuelo, across the channel can be appreciated. The path, through the gate, leads to Paseo del Morro, the National Recreation Trail which skirts the coast, following the city walls (La Muralla) from the gate to the notable citadel.

As you approach the gate, you will notice an inscription, Benedictus qui venit in nomine Domini. The verse comes from The Sanctus, “Holy”, a Latin hymn from Catholic liturgy and means, “Blessed is he who comes in the name of the Lord”.

As I made my way through the gate, I made a stop to inspect the sentry box on the coastal side of the wall. Following Paseo del Morro’s flawlessly paved path, I marveled at the waves sometimes pounding the shore on one side and the ancient wall on the other, repeatedly marked with garitas. At the end of my one and a half mile trek, I suddenly realized that the path ended. Many people will tell you that you should retrace your steps back to the San Juan Gate, however, along with a German family, I found an entrance to the grounds of El Morro fort, a remarkable structure that was next on my list.

And the story of the fortified city continues…

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San Juan Gate

https://sanjuanpuertorico.com/la-puerta-de-san-juan-san-juan-gate/
Address: Cll Caleta De San Juan, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
Hours: Open 24 hours
Admission: Free
Getting There: From the Cathedral, follow Caleta de San Juan westward.

A Utrecht Stopover

After our visit to the opulent De Haar Castle, the return to Amsterdam was taking us back again through Utrecht. Seeing an opportunity to circumnavigate the ancient city center, albeit quickly, we decided to hop off of the train and make quick work of seeing a few landmarks.

Finally exiting the train station, after wandering aimlessly through the adjacent shopping center, a quick stop was made for soup and a sandwich. Realizing that the day was drawing to a close, I wanted to show my friend, Leianne, a few of the things that I had appreciated on a prior visit.

While at the castle, we had learned of the destruction that had been caused by a hurricane in 1674. The same storm had torn through the city and destroyed the nave of St. Martin’s Cathedral, or the Dom Church as it is more commonly known. The Church and the Dom Tower still stand separated by the non-existent nave, now the Domplein, a square with trees. Once the Netherlands’ largest church, dedicated to St. Martin of Tours, it was also the cathedral of the Diocese of Utrecht during the Middle Ages. The tower, the hallmark of the city, is the tallest church tower in the Netherlands. Standing at 367 feet high, it is on the spot where the city of Utrecht originated almost 2,000 years ago.

As we walked up the street toward these two magnificent structures we passed underneath the Dom Tower. Exiting on the church side, it was easy to imagine the hurricane force winds that caused the destruction many years ago. The wind was blowing so hard that we were almost unable to put one foot in front of the other.

Although we did not have time to do so on this day, climbing the Dom Tower can be a wonderful opportunity to see Utrecht from a higher vantage point. On a prior trip, I climbed the 465 steps to the top, stopping halfway to view the historic bells and the 17th century Hemony carillon.

Once we completed our visit of St. Martin’s Cathedral, we ducked into the Pandhof (courtyard) which is located between St. Martin’s Cathedral and the University Hall at Domplein. The Pandhof is a peaceful and picturesque monastery garden, where ornamental plants and herbs bloom. In the center of the garden is a fountain with a bronze statue of the 14th century priest Hugo Wstinc. One of the most beautiful enclosed gardens in Holland, it is worthy of a few minutes to step inside…and if you are lucky, there will be someone utilizing the magnificent acoustics and playing music for your enjoyment (or for a euro or two!)

Musician utilizing the acoustics at Pandhof

As the day ended, we walked around a bit more, just checking out the beautiful architecture and relaxed atmosphere that Utrecht has to offer, before making our return to Amsterdam. Having previously visited Utrecht, I know all that the city extends to visitors. Hopefully, despite the short time here, my friend gained some insight in to what a great place it is to spend time and she will return to inspect it further!

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Utrecht

Getting there: Amsterdam Central to Utrecht, approximately 25 minutes, 5-6 departures per hour, approximtely 17€ roundtrip

Dom Tower

http://www.domtoren.nl/en
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 10:00-17:00, Sunday and Monday, 12:00-17:00
Admission: Adults, 9€, Children (ages 4-12) 5€, Students/+65, 7,50€

St. Martin’s Cathedral

http://www.domkerk.nl/
Admission: Donations accepted
Daily, May-September 10:00-17:00, October-April 11:00-16:00, Saturday 10:00/11:00-15:30, Sunday 12:30-16:00