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Chaco Culture National Historic Site bears a unique title, one of the 20 least visited national parks in the US!
So why were we up early, making a three hour drive through unmaintained roads to hike through its boundaries?
For one, Bandolier National Park was closed due to the wildfires raging in the northern part of the state and Taos Pueblo had still not reopened since Covid restrictions were lifted. After spying pictures of this park and noticing its remoteness, I decided that it would be a perfect photo opportunity, make for an interesting blog post and a way to learn about the ancient Chacoan culture in this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This national park gives insight to the engineering abilities of the ancestral Pueblo people of the southwest. The structures located in the park were built between 850 and 1250 in a remote canyon cut by the Chaco Wash. The structures were constructed of quarried sandstone bricks and timber hauled from great distances and during this time frame, the area was a major center of culture for the Puebloans. Fifteen major complexes make up the area and what remain are the largest building ever built in North America until the 19th century.
Our original plans had us spending this day in the Albuquerque area and driving to Chaco Canyon the next day, to hike and sight see before continuing on to Santa Fe. As I awakened early, however, I burrowed under my hotel sheets and pondered this agenda. We wanted to make it to Santa Fe in time to visit the new attraction Meow Wolf. There is nothing I hate more than not having enough time at an attraction and having to leave before I’m ready in order to meet a timeline and I was afraid that I wasn’t allowing enough time in Chaco Canyon. And…if we were not to make it to Meow Wolf, we would miss our opportunity since it was closed on the next day. After doing a bit of reading, I realized that there was much to see and do in Chaco Canyon that a couple of hours was not adequate.
A change of plans was in order.
This journey was beckoning our adventurous sides. It did not matter how long or hard! If the Chacoans could do it without modern conveniences, we could too.
Jumping into the shower, I informed my son of our new plan. Thankfully, he’s a flexible travel companion, quick to get ready, and we were soon on the Interstate 25 heading north.
The further we traveled, through desert and mountainous regions, cell service became more spotty and obsolete at times. Before all was lost, we made a call to the National Park for some specific directions, since we were a little unsure of the roads in this area. This proved to be a smart move! The ranger gave us detailed directions and even the good advice to fill up our car and purchase snacks at the nearby gas station before leaving the paved roads.
While I had anticipated rough roads, I wasn’t quite prepared for what we encountered. Twenty-one miles on a paved highway would take approximately 15-20 minutes, however, dirt, loose gravel, potholes and uneven surfaces kept us at about 20 miles per hour…you can do the math!
Finally, after the grueling, steering-wheel-clutching, teeth-gritting-when-we-hit-the-potholes drive, we spied the National Park entrance sign ahead and a paved road leading into the park. Success!
First stopping into the Visitor’s Center, we purchased a America the Beautiful Annual Parks Pass. As we would be visiting other parks within the state, it would definitely pay for itself. Quizzing the ranger for helpful advice, we then headed out to the parking lot to fill our water bottles at the cisterns and began our explorations along the Una Vida trail leading from the lot.
Una Vida, only a mile long, gave us our first look at the type of structures and petroglyphs that we would be encountering throughout the park.
Refilling our water again, we headed out on the nine-mile loop road to the next stop, the Hungo Pavi trail. More structures dotted the landscape, but it was on the trail that we would find the Chacoan Great House (occupation AD 1000-1250s). Paved and dirt pathways ran throughout the site and we were able to examine these dwellings from extremely close proximity. This monumental public building is a good example of what Chacoan sites look like without excavations, covered in windblown sand and native vegetation, and consists of over 150 rooms, a great kiva (space used by Puebloans for rites and political meetings) and an enclosed plaza.
Our next stop was the Chetro Ketl trail, home to the second largest Chacoan great house, covering more than three acres and containing a great kiva and elevated kivas. The structures consists of two and three stories and an elevated plaza that stands twelve feet above the canyon floor. Along the way we also followed the Petroglyph trail which spanned the bottom of the cliff face between Chetro Ketl and Pueblo Bonito. Here, we spotted many petroglyphs etched onto the walls, some low and some so high it made you wonder how they reached these soaring elevations.
The Pueblo Bonito trail is named after the beautiful structure located within its confines. This large complex, where we headed next, was unearthed between 1920 and 1927 by seven expeditions of the National Geographic Society and the Smithsonian Institution. According to the sign on site, over one hundred thousand tons of rubble and wind blown sand were removed to accurately reconstruct parts of the destroyed walls and match the ancient masonry. Located approximately 4.5 miles from the Visitor Center, it is the most important site in the canyon and worth the 0.6 mile roundtrip hike. Constructed from AD 850 to AD 1150 it was the center of all of the Chacoan universe.
A much larger compound than we had encountered thus far, we walked around its perimeter, comparing its size to the massive boulders that had fallen from the mesa beyond. Climbing these boulders, we had a bird’s eye view of the interior of Pueblo Bonito.
Along this trail, we encountered a sign directing us to the Wetherill Cemetery. While from this point, it was only a quarter mile hike, we learned later, that there was a parking area up the road which would have provided a much shorter walk. Only one grave was located here, that of Richard Wetherill, an amateur archaeologist who discovered, researched and excavated sites associated with the ancient Pueblo people. Fascinated by the ruins and artifacts of the Southwestern United States, Wetherill was credited with the excavation of Pueblo Bonito. He was murdered during a mysterious circumstances by a Navajo in Chaco Canyon in 1910.
Returning to Pueblo Bonito, the trail brought us around to the front of the complex and through parts of its interior. Judging by the small doorways, these ancient people must have been of a smaller stature and we were mesmerized for the still intact wood beams still in place. The most interesting part of the entire complex was an interior room with its wooden walls and ceiling still unscathed.
Skipping Casa Rinconada, we next headed to Pueblo del Arroyo, about a mile up the road. The 1/4 mile roundtrip trail brought us to another Chacoan Great House (occupation 1075-1250s). Planned and constructed in two stages, the architecture found here lacks a great kiva and earthen mounds, however, typifies the pueblo architecture found throughout the area.
It was now getting to be late afternoon and there was still so much more to see. Realizing that we had made the correct decision to devote this entire day to Chaco Canyon, I quickly calculated that although making it a long day, we could conceivably depart from the park between 6:00 and 6:30pm, have dinner along the way and still make back to our hotel at a semi-decent hour.
There was still a trail that we wanted to follow, but we were concerned about making it back in time to follow our new itinerary. This trail passed near Kin Kletso, another great Chacoan House (occupied from AD 1100 to 1150s). There were some interesting petroglyphs here, but we hesitated for a moment because to take this trail up to the top of the mesa, we needed to register. After talking with another couple of hikers, who assured us that we had enough time and that we could register at the top of the trailhead, by filling out a form, leaving half in the box and half on the dashboard of our car, we set off.
Heading on the Pueblo Alto trail, we hoped to reach the Pueblo Bonito Overlook. The trail, a total of 2.6 miles, reaches the overlook at .75 mile. If we could reach the overlook, we would then recalculate our time. But first, the beginning of the trail had me rethinking if I was capable of making it to our destination. The trail wound up the side of the cliff, giving us great views of Kin Kletso, but I was a little hesitant of looking anywhere but in front of me. Next, we discovered that we had to make our way through a narrow path, between the cliff walls, straight up. Not wanting to let my son down, I persevered and even enjoyed myself, discovering the beautiful flowers, fossils embedded in the stone, shrimp burrows and other landmarks along the way. From the top of this mesa, the view of the canyon was stunning.
When we reached the Pueblo Bonito overlook, I had to admit that it was worth the intimidating climb! With Pueblo Bonito spread out below us, it was much easier to see from above what we could not fathom while walking through the complex!
Checking our watches, we discovered that we had actually made pretty good time, so we decided to follow the Chacoan Road for a little ways. There were two additional structures that we were able to spot from afar, but sadly, if we were going to make our departure window, we had to turn back. Along the cliff’s edge we retreated, back through the narrow canyon, gingerly stepping from one rocky stair to another, past Kin Kletso and back to the cool confines of our car.
Another quick trip to the Visitor’s Center to grab more water and we were on our way back to Albuquerque. While the trip on the unpaved roads seemed shorter as we were now familiar with its length, it was still harrowing, praying we didn’t pop a tire or break an axle. As we approached paved roads and civilization, the late summer sun was illuminating the nearby mountains, giving us quite the show of fiery reds and oranges!
As we arrived back to Albuquerque close to 9:00 p.m., during the midst of a lunar eclipse, I realized that while we were extremely tired from the six hours we had spent in the car, the sun and all of the hiking in the park, we had made the right decision.
Chaco Culture National Historic Site absolutely warrants enough time to see everything that if offers. Maybe it is one of the least visited, but we can say we did!
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Chaco Culture National Historic Park
- https://www.nps.gov/chcu/index.htm
- Address: Mailing address, PO Box 220, Nageezi , NM 87037
- Hours: 0700-sunset, daily
- Admission: Vehicle entrance fee, $25.00 USD for 7 days (includes all persons traveling in one private, non-commercial vehicle (car/truck/van). Motorcycle entrance fee, $20.00 USD for 7 days. Individual entrance fee, $15.00 for 7 days.
- Getting There: https://www.nps.gov/chcu/planyourvisit/trafficandtraveltips.htm Calling ahead for travel conditions is advisable.
America the Beautiful Park Pass
The wind was whipping and the temperature had plummeted as we stepped from the comfort of our car. From our altitudinous vantage point and through the fast-moving clouds, we caught our first glimpses of the beautiful Lagoa do Fogo.
Although we later learned that an 11 km hike, including a trail around the lake, was an option many serious nature enthusiasts choose, the one available here was a much shorter choice…only 4 km. Thankfully, we were somewhat prepared for the weather and the trails and we decided to tackle the task of a muddy, descent to the lake.
The sandy shores of the lake were a welcome respite from the precipitous slopes of the cliffs of the caldera and we spent some time enjoying the clear waters and stunning scenery. Even a little rain didn’t dampen our spirits, only the trail on the way up.
After the long, arduous climb back to the summit, some much needed water and a quick study of the map, it was decided that continuing on to the eastern coast would have to wait until another trip. It was a pity as there were some amazing things that I wanted to see along the way…Our Lady of Peace Chapel and the Lighthouse Arnel. We were quite hungry and decided to head back toward Ponta Delgada and its unique pineapple plantations.
After such a long growing period, it suddenly became clear why these organic pineapples were so expensive the in the San Miguel grocery stores!
Heading back to the harbor, we decided to take a walk around Ponta Delgada. Not wanting our visit to end, we meandered down many of the streets we had missed on our first afternoon in the town, admiring the architecture, and artwork…even taking a visit to the extensive shopping area which extends into the harbor.
Leaving the gardens, we made our way on to the main trail, winding our way steadily up the mountainside, crossing a few fixed bridges along the way. A short time later, we found our way to the first hanging bridge. A bit of a back log had us waiting a while to pass over…workers monitor the bridge and allow a limited number to cross the bridge at one time. Unfortunately, there are those who are not as considerate of other’s time and paused one to many times to take selfies and pictures of the surrounding area.
Finally, we made our way as steadily as possible across the shaky span, marveling at the clouds swirling around the treetops. From the bridges and the higher parts of the trails, epiphyte plants, birds, mammals and butterflies can be observed up close. Some of the high altitude birds include the bell bird and the Emerald Toucanette, while at lower elevations, toucans and turkey hens can be spied along with migratory birds of prey during the months from November to February. High altitude trees include Yema Huevo, Cirri and Pilon trees and in the lower regions, Caobilla, Fruta Dorada and Maquenque trees. Keep an eye out for frogs, snakes, lizards and mammels such as kinkajous, raccoons, margays, ocelots, pumas, jaguars and tapirs.
The trail spans almost two miles and can be covered in about two hours. Six more hanging bridges are spaced out on the trail, along with a waterfall and viewing area and a tunnel. Each of the bridges vary in length and believe it or not, after the first bridge, the crowds thin. Maybe visitors decide that one is enough. Maybe they think they are too shaky or they run out of time, but at the end of the trail, the last few bridges have no one on them, allowing ample time to enjoy the views from the center of the bridge.
