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DIA CINCO
When making plans for this trip, my original thought was to take Spanish lessons at one of the towns of Lake Atitlan.
But which one?
I didn’t know anything about the area except that I thought it would be wonderful to study Spanish in the mornings, looking out over the beautiful waters and the volcanoes that surround them, and spending the afternoons lounging in the sun and swimming.
Ultimately, I decided that because I knew the city of Antigua so well and that the schools here were plentiful, it would be a better place for me.
I did want to see Lake Atitlan though, so while I was here, I made plans for a visit. Two years ago, my son and I had inquired about a tour, however, we were informed that it was a very long day, leaving early in the morning and returning in the evening. There were so many things on that trip that we wanted to see and do in the city of Antigua that we decided to forgo that idea.
Conveniently, this time, a tour agency was right next-door to my Airbnb. After lunch a few days ago, I wandered in and booked my tour. Although there was an option to spend the night, I decided that since my accommodations were already booked and paid for in Antigua, I would suffer through the long day. It was all set.
So at 5:30 in the morning, I was standing in front of my apartment, in the dark, waiting for my pick up not knowing if it was a van, a bus or lord knows, a motorcycle (anyone remember Vietnam?). There were eight of us in the van and we headed outside of the city. I assumed that we were all going on the same tour yet after a while, it became apparent that some of this group was heading to Mexico. Wondering how this was all going to pan out, we suddenly had to pull over on the side of the highway when one of the girls started to feel carsick and had a full-blown panic attack. My flight attendant training kicked in and I helped her to calm down and breathe. It took some doing but we finally got her back into the van and this was when I found out who was heading to Mexico…yes, she was one of those making a run for the border! If she couldn’t make a 2-hour van ride, how the heck was she going to make it to Mexico?
Well, it wasn’t my problem anymore after we made the drop off. There were three of us going on the tour and I was quite relieved for the small number, including two brothers from Fort Collins, Colorado.
We were dropped off in the middle of the town of Panajachel and told that our guide would meet us in half an hour. I took this time to walk around and explore a bit. The vendors were all beginning to set up and as I got to the lakefront, I had the most magnificent vista all to myself!
At nine o’clock on the dot, we met our guide, Nicolas, and boarded a boat bound for the opposite end of the lake. The water was so calm, it shown like glass reflecting the four volcanoes that surround the lake.
After a twenty-minute ride, we arrived at the town of San Juan de Laguna. It was an uphill climb into the town and along the way, we stopped at chocolate and weaving demonstrations and a beekeeping farm. It was fascinating to see the tiny Mayan bees and sample some of their tasty honey. It was also interesting to see how the locals were spending their Saturday and the preparations for a local carnival.
Our next stop was San Pedro de Laguna. Described to us by our guide as a “hippie town”, we made the trek to the colorful church and the local market, witnessing the beautiful murals that graced the walls of businesses and homes. The largest of the three towns, it was full of activity.
Our third stop was Nicolas’ hometown, Santiago. After a typical lunch, we met a lady who posed for us and demonstrated how she dons the cultural headdress that she is known for. Walking through the large market, each of us made different purchases…clothes, paintings, coffee. If you want to shop, this is the place!
Jumping back into the boat, we found the weather to be quite different than during the morning. Dark clouds were moving in obscuring the volcanoes and we encountered rough waters as we made our way across the lake. When we finally arrived in Panajachel, it was nearing the time to meet our van for the long trip back to Antigua.
Needless to say, that night when I arrived back at my apartment, I had no energy for anything other than a quick dinner and bed.
As tired as I was though, it was worth every moment. It was a day filled with adventure, education, culture, new friends, a lake and a volcano or two. What more could anyone ask for?
What I learned: 10-hour bus rides are no fun if you are prone to carsickness and panic attacks.
Photo of the day: Beautiful Lake Atitlan
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Lake Atitlan
The wind was whipping and the temperature had plummeted as we stepped from the comfort of our car. From our altitudinous vantage point and through the fast-moving clouds, we caught our first glimpses of the beautiful Lagoa do Fogo.
Although we later learned that an 11 km hike, including a trail around the lake, was an option many serious nature enthusiasts choose, the one available here was a much shorter choice…only 4 km. Thankfully, we were somewhat prepared for the weather and the trails and we decided to tackle the task of a muddy, descent to the lake.
The sandy shores of the lake were a welcome respite from the precipitous slopes of the cliffs of the caldera and we spent some time enjoying the clear waters and stunning scenery. Even a little rain didn’t dampen our spirits, only the trail on the way up.
After the long, arduous climb back to the summit, some much needed water and a quick study of the map, it was decided that continuing on to the eastern coast would have to wait until another trip. It was a pity as there were some amazing things that I wanted to see along the way…Our Lady of Peace Chapel and the Lighthouse Arnel. We were quite hungry and decided to head back toward Ponta Delgada and its unique pineapple plantations.
After such a long growing period, it suddenly became clear why these organic pineapples were so expensive the in the San Miguel grocery stores!
Heading back to the harbor, we decided to take a walk around Ponta Delgada. Not wanting our visit to end, we meandered down many of the streets we had missed on our first afternoon in the town, admiring the architecture, and artwork…even taking a visit to the extensive shopping area which extends into the harbor.
