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Our last day in the Azores…so much to do…so little time.
After misreading our map the day before and ending up on a different part of San Miguel, we had some backtracking to do. Lagoa do Fogo was our destination!
Honestly, though, I had no idea what exactly we were going to see. My Portuguese language skills were good enough to know that we were going to a lake, but what exactly was the draw?
Following the signs from the highway, we began an ascent into the mountains. Higher and higher, we climbed into the clouds…a light, misty rain making me a little nervous on the steep roadways. On we continued until finally noticing cars pulling into spaces on the side of the highway.
The wind was whipping and the temperature had plummeted as we stepped from the comfort of our car. From our altitudinous vantage point and through the fast-moving clouds, we caught our first glimpses of the beautiful Lagoa do Fogo.
Lagoa do Fogo, the Lake of Fire, is the largest crater lake on the the island of San Miguel and occupies the central caldera of the Agua de Pau Massif volcanic complex. A protected natural reserve, it is the habitat for local and imported plant species and many species of birds.
Dodging tour vans and other tourists at Miradoura da Barrosa, we headed down the mountain for a short distance before arriving at a second viewpoint, Miradoura da Lagoa do Fogoa. More parking was available here and we noticed many people descending down a steep path.
Although we later learned that an 11 km hike, including a trail around the lake, was an option many serious nature enthusiasts choose, the one available here was a much shorter choice…only 4 km. Thankfully, we were somewhat prepared for the weather and the trails and we decided to tackle the task of a muddy, descent to the lake.
The sandy shores of the lake were a welcome respite from the precipitous slopes of the cliffs of the caldera and we spent some time enjoying the clear waters and stunning scenery. Even a little rain didn’t dampen our spirits, only the trail on the way up.
After the long, arduous climb back to the summit, some much needed water and a quick study of the map, it was decided that continuing on to the eastern coast would have to wait until another trip. It was a pity as there were some amazing things that I wanted to see along the way…Our Lady of Peace Chapel and the Lighthouse Arnel. We were quite hungry and decided to head back toward Ponta Delgada and its unique pineapple plantations.
Pineapple A Arruda, was the first plantation that we decided to seek out. Though expecting see the fruit spread out along San Miguel’s hillsides, we were surprised to find a small property with a large number of greenhouses.
When pineapples were brought to the islands in the 19th century, the crop was intended as another source of income for the farmers of the region. There was one problem, however…the islands climate was not conducive for the growth of pineapples. Greenhouses were built and a thriving business was initiated.
Today, San Miguel has around 6,000 greenhouses and offers many products made from the tangy fruit, including cake, jam, chutney, mustard, liqueur, sweets and chocolate.
As we walked through the picturesque property, we noticed that each of the greenhouses sheltered plants in various stages of growth. After the soil is created from organic matter, bulbs are planted and then the shoots are transferred. After a year’s time, where the plants are watered regularly and the greenhouses are smoked to help catalyse simultaneous flowering and the deterrence of damaging bugs and insects the plants are cut and replanted. Finally, after two, long years, the pineapples are ready for harvest.
After such a long growing period, it suddenly became clear why these organic pineapples were so expensive the in the San Miguel grocery stores!
Another plantation, Santo Antonio was located a short distance from the first and we decided to navigate the narrow streets of the neighborhood to see how it compared to the first. The owner, a friendly man, was present and after allowing us to view a video on the entire life cycle of the pineapple, he gave us a tour of the property, explaining the process in more detail. Though this property wasn’t in as pristine condition as the first, we enjoyed each of them for the unique information we gleaned from our visits.
Heading back to the harbor, we decided to take a walk around Ponta Delgada. Not wanting our visit to end, we meandered down many of the streets we had missed on our first afternoon in the town, admiring the architecture, and artwork…even taking a visit to the extensive shopping area which extends into the harbor.
If you are looking to travel to a destination which involves “stepping outside of the box” the Azores are your destination. A beautiful place filled with natural beauty, architecture and history, you will never find yourself short of things to occupy your time. If you do…head over on the ferry to another island!
And trust me…go before it gets really touristy.
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Pineapples Agusto Arruda
- https://www.ananasesarruda.com/
- Address: Rua Doutor Augusto Arruda, Fajã de Baixo, 9500-454 Ponta Delgada, Portugal
- Hours: April through October, 0900-2000, November through March, 0900-1800, daily
- Admission: free
Santo Antonio Pineapple Plantation
- Address: Rua Doutor Augusto Arruda, Faja de Baixo, Ponta Delgada, Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel 9500-454, Portugal
- Hours: April through October, 0900-1930, November through March, 0900-1800, daily
- Admission: free