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Despite the day’s drizzly beginnings, it was shaping up to be much improved. Drawing back the curtains, I noticed that the clouds were parting and the sun attempting to make its presence known. By the time I had dressed and made it outside, I discovered the perfect fall day for a bike ride in Amsterdam.
Jumping on one of my hotel’s complimentary bikes, I headed toward the river IJ. The ferry quickly carried me over to the train station and there, I decided ride adjacent to one of the less trafficked canals that ring the city, the Prinsengracht. There was a museum in that canal that I wanted to visit.
Yes, in the canal…the Houseboat Museum.
Visitors to Amsterdam can spot hundreds of houseboats lining each of the canals throughout the city.
Some are basic. Some are unique. Some are small and others are large.
Regardless of where they are located and what they look like, the most common question in most people’s minds is “what is it like to live in one”?
The Woonbootmuseum, the only houseboat museum in the world, is the perfect place to have this burning question answered.
Over 2,900 houseboats line the Amsterdam canals. Many are traditional iron freighter ships with holds converted into houseboats and others more modern concrete-based rectangular houseboats.
With its origins as a barge, built in 1914, this vessel was tasked with transporting timber, sand, gravel and coal until the 1960s. Its conversion was conducted in 1967 to include a skipper’s quarters with sleeping bunks, living room, kitchen and bathroom and renamed the Hendrika Maria. With approximately 262 square feet of living space, its inhabitants enjoyed canal life until 1997.
Crossing the gangplank, I descended the narrow stairway into the living space. The first part of the houseboat I encountered was the sleeping quarters tucked away at the rear of the boat. A few years ago, we had taken a trip on a sailboat in the Caribbean and these small berths reminded me of our nightly quarters. A small stove and kitchen area completed the space.
Moving through the curtain, I encountered the agent behind a desk and purchased my entry ticket. A descriptive pamphlet was handed over to guide me through the various areas of the converted freighter’s hold.
Moving into the next room, I found myself in a very spacious living/dining area. It was surprising how large the area was and reminded me that this houseboat is equal in size of the average Amsterdam apartment…believe me, I have been to my friend’s apartment where four people reside!
Finally, heading to the rear compartment where the small bathroom is also located, I found another small sleeping quarter with an exhibit of houseboat models and an illustrated history of the boat. Crouching behind the sleeping berths wall, I found a viewing area into the bow with another sleeping berth and a television screen showing a film giving insight into the houseboat lifestyle. If you think that Amsterdam houseboat living is for you, keep in mind that in addition to insurance and maintenance charges being quite significant, there are no leases to be had in any of the city’s canals.
Since the space is a limited one, capacity is limited and guests sometimes encounter a wait to enter the boat. On this day, I was the only visitor and had the museum to myself! It was a most pleasing experience to envision how I would spend my days if I lived here since I was the only one moving through the boat!
Finishing my self-guided tour, I climbed the small stairway to the top of the boat and made my way back over the gangplank to where my bike was locked up next to the canal. Contemplating my next destination if I had been a first time tourist, it would have been quite convenient to walk the five minutes to the Anne Frank House or to the nearby Westerkerk church. Since I had visited these attraction in the past, however, I headed back the way I had come toward the train station. I had another destination in mind.
Parking my bike in the bike garage in front of the train station, I walked over the canal and into the Lover’s Canal Cruise office. With the weather cooperating, I decided that I would keep the theme of the day…Canal Life!
Purchasing a ticket for a departure at 5:30 p.m., I waited patiently in the adjacent café area until boarding time. Being one of the first passengers to board, I headed towards the rear of the long boat and took my seat, plugging in a set of headphones into one of the ports which offered information on the sites we would be seeing in nineteen different languages.
Soon on our way, we cruised into the river IJ, which I had previously crossed, passing the train station, the ferries and river cruise boats docked for the day. Back into the Oosterdoksdoorgang canal, we made our way past the NEMO Science and the Amsterdam Maritime History Museums.
Motoring along, as expected, we encountered a multitude of houseboats docked along the canals. With a much better perspective, I know could see the differences between the types of these water homes.
Passing under and near many of Amsterdam’s bridges, bikes lining their lengths, we also sailed by the Montelbaanstoren, the 16th century defensive tower which was once part of the city walls and other identifiable structures throughout the city; the floating Sea Palace Chinese restaurant, the Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge), the Hermitage Museum, Westerkerk church and my favorite, the dancing houses on the Amstel river.
These houses that lean…to the left, to the right, and forward…look like an architectural hazard to outsiders, but are normal to those residents of the city. Though I am not sure that if I had stood immediately in front of the houses on the street, I would have noticed how skewed they were, but from the water, it was extremely conspicuous.
If you are interested in a little history on these and many dancing houses in Amsterdam, here goes. Since all houses in the city are built on piles, which are drilled deep into the wet soil to keep them from sinking, the age and quality of the wooden piles cause the buildings to sink into the ground unevenly. Many of the houses along the canals lean on each other for extra stability, however, problems arise when houses are renovated. In other cases, you may notice that some houses lean forward, toward the street…not an accident…for centuries it was the custom to build houses leaning forward. For the residents who reside in these crooked homes, it must be quite the feat to walk around on a slanted floor when you’ve had a few drinks!
It was a beautiful afternoon and we encountered many other cruise boats making their way through the city’s canals. It was a perfect way to enjoy the early autumn weather while seeing so much of the city. While it was not my first canal cruise, it was one that I enjoyed the most as it was not planned, not crowded and I had one of the best seats on the boat!
When you find yourself in the “Venice of the North”, take a canal cruise to get acquainted with the city. Whether it be a city sightseeing tour during the day or night, a dinner cruise or one of the holiday Light Festival cruises, its the perfect way to see the sights!
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The Houseboat Museum (Woonbootmuseum)
- https://houseboatmuseum.nl/
- Address: Prinsengracht 296 K, 1016 HW Amsterdam
- Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1700. Closed Mondays.
- Admission: Adults, €4,50, Children (ages 5-15), €3,50, Children (under 5 years), free
Lovers Canal Cruises
- https://www.lovers.nl/en/
- Address: Prinsengracht 2571 Amsterdam, Drenthe The Netherlands
- Hours: unknown
- Admission: Cruise prices vary, €15-€80. Check website for specific cruise prices.
The sun rose higher as we glided down river, finally pulling our boats onto the shore for our first rest and excursion. Arizona Hot Springs. Walking past boulders, gushing streams and high bluffs, we made our way inland through the slot canyon, noticing the temperature around us rising. Stepping into the water, it was noticeably warmer. Further upstream, the temperatures rose even higher. Climbing a twenty foot ladder to an overhead cliff, the water temperature was extremely hot, pouring forth from a geothermal spring. Taking a seat, we soaked for a few minutes, our muscles enjoying the torridity.
