Copenhagen City Hall

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If you decide to break the law in Copenhagen, expect your day in court.  But, if you are an architecture lover, at least you can appreciate the beautiful National Romantic style building where your case will be heard!

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imageEach time I have been to Copenhagen, I have walked near or through the square in front of City Hall.  I never imagined that with it being an administrative building, it would be open to the public, however, recently, while taking some photographs of the Hans Christian Andersen statue, I passed near the entrance.  Those entering and exiting did not seem to be only Danish citizens. Deciding to take my chances at being asked to leave, I stealthily entered the beautiful foyer and made my way into the three-story central hall.  Noticing other tourists, I realized that the building was open to the public and I made my way through all three floors.

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imageThe hallways are richly appointed with beautiful murals in each of the stairwells located in the far ends of the building.  Stained glass is located in many of the windows and spiral staircases link the floors throughout.  The balconies that ring the center of the building look out onto the central hall, which is highlighted by a glass ceiling and multiple Danish flags.   The third floor is most notable for the many statues that line the walls, representing Danish historical figures.

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Built between 1892 and 1905, Copenhagen City Hall is the headquarters of the municipal council as well as the Lord mayor of the Copenhagen Municipality, Denmark.  Located on City Hall Square it is one of the highest buildings in Copenhagen and was modeled on the city hall in Siena, Italy.  Its location was moved here after fire demolished the original city hall as well as its replacement.

imageThe facade is richly ornamented with a gilded statue of Absalon, Danish archbishop and statesman, just above the balcony, but it’s main focus is the tall slim clock tower which was featured on a 20 DKK commemorative coin, issued in 2007.  The tower offers stunning views of the city and over the adjacent square with tours taking place regularly.

imageMake sure to pay a visit to the exhibit on the Clock and its creator which is located on the right when entering the building.  Also, a lovely garden is also featured at the center of the building, which can be accessed directly from outside via an archway on the side opposite Tivoli Gardens.

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Before your departure, take some time to look out over the square, which, interestingly, is in the shape of a seashell, and is a popular gather point for tourists and locals.  And, if you are here at Christmas time, make sure to stop by the square to admire the enormous Christmas tree displayed here.

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Copenhagen City Hall

  • http://www.visitcopenhagen.com/copenhagen/city-hall-tower-gdk688394
  • Address:  City Hall, DK-1599 Copenhagen V, Denmark
  • Admission:  City Hall, free.
  • Admission:  Tower admission, 30 DKK, Monday-Friday, 1100-1400, Saturday, 1200.
  • Hours:  Monday-Friday, 0830-1630, Saturday, 1000-1300.  Tours in English are offered Monday-Friday at 1500.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Two Statues

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When visiting Copenhagen, there are two statues that you must see.

imageThe first, located on the side of Copenhagen City Hall Square, is the statue of Hans Christian Andersen, the famous Danish writer of plays, travelogues, novels, poems and what he is most remembered for…his fairy tales.

The bronze statue, made by Henry Luckow-Nielsen, was erected in its current spot in 1965 facing H.C. Andersen Boulevard.  The statue, depicts the writer sitting with a book.  Jump up in his lap and pretend that he is reading you one of his stories…The Emperor’s New Clothes, The Ugly Duckling, Thumbelina and the most famous of them all, The Little Mermaid.

And…speaking of the Little Mermaid…

imageLocated on a rock at the water’s edge, this major attraction has drawn thousands of tourists to this area since 1913.  A gift to the city by Carl Jacobsen of Carlsberg and designed by Edvard Eriksen, the statue lies along the Langelinie promenade but is much smaller than one would imagine. Despite its diminutive size, however, it represents the city, in the way that statues in other cities represent those…Statue of Liberty in New York, Manneken Pis in Brussels, Christ the Redeemer in Rio.   On any given day, you can find bus loads of tourists milling about and taking turns having their picture taken with the Mermaid, thus making it the most photographed statue in Denmark, garnering 5 million photos per year.

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Hans Christian Andersen Statue

 

Little Mermaid Statue

 

Colorful Copenhagen

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Flipping through a travel magazine and encountering photos of Copenhagen, chances are you will see a picture or two of Nyhavn.

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Upon my first trip to the capital city of Denmark, this is what I wanted most to see.  The problem with my first trip, however, was that it was about 28 degrees and snowing.  Yes, I still made it to Nyhavn, but seeing it at dusk through a white sheet of snow didn’t quite match up to to my expectations.

Fast forward to my next trip…summertime in Copenhagen…blue skies, warm temperatures!  As I made my way up to the canal and purchased a ticket for a boat tour, I stood mesmerized, in awe of the colorful buildings and the multitude of boats parked there.  This was the Nyhavn that I wanted to see and about a hundred pictures were probably snapped on my camera before my tour boat even left the area.

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Now, each time that I return to Copenhagen, I always make time to visit the area, first stopping by a small corner store and picking up a couple of beers.  I sit along the dock and enjoy my drinks while watching the tour boats come and go and the tourists milling about. It’s still quite magical to me.

Nyhavn, meaning New Harbor, was created in 1671 when King Christian V began the excavation of the new harbor, within the city, with the work being completed by Swedish prisoners of war from the Dano-Swedish War.  A gateway to the sea, it became a home for sailors, prostitutes and beer as well as the home for many artists.  Nyhavn’s most notable resident was the fairly-tale writer, Hans Christian Anderson, who lived in number 67 for eighteen years.

The brightly colored, 17th and 18th century townhouses, bars, cafes and restaurants (the oldest dates, number 6, dates back to 1687) line the canal and are a hub of activity throughout most of each day.   In 1980, the area became a pedestrianized zone.

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 The canal is also home to many historical wooden ships.  In 1977, Nyhavn was introduced as a veteran ship and museum harbor by Copenhagen’s Lord Mayor Egon Weidekamp.  Between the Nyhavn Bridge and Kongens Nytorv, there are dozens of old ships which make up the Nyhavn Veteran Ship and Museum Harbour.  The Danish National Museum owns many museum ships which reside in the south side of the canal.  The northern side of the canal, run by the Nyhavn Society, houses privately owned and still usable wooden ships.  

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As you wander this amazing area, take the time to examine the awe-inspiring architecture of the area and maybe a tour of one of the museum boats, such as the Light-vessel Gedser Rev.  (The light-vessels are my favorites…a boat and a lighthouse in one!)  

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imageClimb up on and take pictures with the great Memorial Anchor, (once used on the Frigate Fyn) which commemorates more than 1700 Danish officers and sailors in the service for the Navy, merchant fleet or Allied Forces, who sacrificed their lives during World War II.  If you happen to be there on May 5, Denmark’s Liberation Day, an official ceremony is held to honor and commemorate the fallen at the Memorial Anchor.

And…if you want to see the great city of Copenhagen, jump on one of the tour boats that depart from Nyhavn.  They start at this magnificent place, take you throughout the many canals and waterways, giving you an overview of the city, and return you to the same spot….then…you can grab a drink or dinner and enjoy the view!

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Nyhavn

  • http://www.nyhavn.com/#!home/cd30
  • Nyhavn 45 DK-1051 Copenhagen, Denmark
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Copenhagen Harbour Bus, Routes 901, 902, 903 and 904 stop at the bus stop next to the Royal Playhouse.  Kongens Nytorv metro station is located at the end of Nyhavn and is served by lines M1 and M2.

 

 

The Star of Copenhagen

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

imageMany times I have walked near the bastioned ramparts of Kastellet while returning from the waterfront, never realizing quite what it was or even that the public was allowed on the grounds.

One of the best preserved star fortresses in Northern Europe, Kastellet’s construction began in 1626 as a part of the defense of the City of Copenhagen.  After the Swedish siege on Copenhagen from 1658 to 1660, the fort was rebuilt, extended and named Citadellet Frederikshavn (The Citadel Frederik’s Harbor).  Today, it is widely known as Kastellet (the Citadel) and it was part of the defense of Copenhagen against England in the Battle of Copenhagen in 1807.  In 1940, the Citadel was captured by German troops.

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imageEntry is by two gates…the King’s Gate on the south side, facing the city, and the Norway Gate, on the north side of the monument.  They are both built in the Dutch Baroque style and are edged by guardhouses.  There are many buildings located throughout the grounds, including a church, the Commander’s house, a prison, a storehouse, a powder house, barracks and a windmill.  Many military activities are conducted here by the Danish Defense Ministry, however, the area serves mainly as a park and historic site.

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imageThe bastions, at each of the corners, are named The King’s Bastion, the Queen’s Bastion, The Count’s Bastion, The Princess’s Bastion and the Prince’s Bastion.  An inner and outer moat surrounds the citadel.

Besides strolling the premises and admiring the views, there are a few things to see and do at Kastellet.  There are two small museums on the premises;  The Garrison’s Historical Collections is in one of the guard’s buildings inside the North Gate and the Livjæger Museum.  Also, a changing of the guard ceremony is conducted every day at noon at the Central Guard House.  Military concerts are conducted on the drill grounds on summer afternoons at 1400.  On October 28, the Citadel’s birthday, an annual concert is held and on Store Bededag, a Danish holiday, it is tradition to promenade on the ramparts.

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imageWhile taking in the sites near the waterfront, be sure to incorporate Kastellet into your day.  Starting with a visit to St. Albans church in Churchill Park, you can then enter the Kastellet at the King’s Gate and explore the entire area.  Exit at the Norway Gate, proceeding to the waterfront area and the Little Mermaid. Walk along the Langelinie (pier) and make your way back to St. Albans, encountering the Gefion fountain along the way.  There is a lot to see and do, so make sure to bring your camera and your walking shoes!

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Kastellet

  • http://www.kastellet.info/
  • Hours:  0600-2200
  • Admission:  free
  • Livjæger Museum, admission, free, open every day from May 1 to October 1, 1100-1500.
  • The Garrison’s Historical Collections, admission, free.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Marble Church

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Above most rooftops of Copenhagen, in the elegant area of Frederiksstaden, you can see the copper green dome of the Marble Church.  Impressively beautiful and near the Amalienborg Castle and The Opera, the Marble Church (or the Frederik’s Church, its official name) is one most tourists aspire to visit on a trip to the Danish city.

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imageHaving walked past this Lutheran church a few times before, I had never set foot inside its doorways.  Currently, lots of construction behind and adjacent to the church takes away from its impressive facade, however, when stepping inside, you are struck by the awe-inspiring massive dome…the largest dome in Scandinavia…with a span of almost 102 feet and decorated with a painting of the twelve apostles.  Though not as large, this dome was supposedly inspired by the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

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In 1749, King Frederik V decided to build a church to honor God, the absolute monarchy and the royal house of Oldenborg celebrating the tercentenary of ruling the Country.  The church and town were named after him and together with his leading court architect, Nicolai Eigtved, they embarked on the monumental project.

The foundation stone was laid October 30, 1749 and a mighty domed church was planned.  Finances were limited but the King refused to cut back on materials, thus slowing progress. Large solid blocks of marble from eastern Norway were used to build the walls of the church, furthermore, increasing costs.

After the deaths of Eigtved in 1754 and King Frederik V in 1766, Frederik’s son, King Christian VII decided to suspend the project.  No progress was made for 100 years with the walls, at barely a height of 60 feet.  Although the site was deemed a ruin, it was a popular motif for many artists.  Eventually, banker and financier C.F. Tietgen took over the project in 1874.  The rebuilding started later that year under architect Ferdinand Meldahl and was finally completed, after 20 additional years of construction, on August 19, 1894.

imageimageOne of the highlights of most Copenhagen tours, be sure to expect busloads of tourists to be on site.  If you can dodge the hoards, however, be sure to take in the 14 bronze statues of prominent Danish Church Fathers that surround the church (with present construction, hard to see all).  On the balustrade around the dome are sculptures in zinc of 18 historical figures from the bible…prophets and apostles, in addition to Martin Luther, the founder of Reformation.  On the interior, note the motifs from the 42nd Psalm that flank the altar and observe the the church’s two organs.  The oldest, referred to as the Swan Organ, is no longer in use, however, the newer Marcussen organ is currently being used during services (and was being tested while I was visiting).  In the front chapel, take in the woodcarvings depicting the Deposition.

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A most beautiful and historic church, that is well worth a visit while in Copenhagen, will take, at most, about a half hour to visit (unless taking the Dome Tour).  It can be combined with a visit to Amalienborg Palace and countless other attractions in the area.

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The Marble Church

  • http://www.marmorkirken.dk/
  • Address:  Frederiksgade 4, 1265 København K
  • Admission:  free
  • Hours:  Monday-Thursday and Saturday 1000-1700.  Friday and Saturday, 1200-1700.
  • Dome Tours, Saturday and Sunday 1300 and 1500 and weekdays at 1300 from June 15-August 31.  Admission for dome tours, Adults, 35 DKK, Children (under 18), 20 DKK.
  • Getting There: Bus, 1A, 15, 20E.  Distance from Town Hall Square, 5 km, about 20-30 min walk.

 

 

Rundetaarn

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are quite a few ways to check out the city of Copenhagen from a higher altitude.

Airplane?

Let’s go lower.

Hot air balloon?

Probably, but it might prove to be quite expensive.

Towers?

Yes!  There are some beautiful towers right within the city that make viewing easy and inexpensive…the Marble Church Tower, Christiansborg Tower, the Spiral Tower of the Church of Our Saviour, to name a few.

imageAnother tower, Rundetaarn, one of the many architectural projects of Christian IV was built as an astronomical observatory during the 17th century.  Today, the Round Tower serves as an observation tower for expansive views over the city, a public astronomical observatory and a historical monument.

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imageThe cylindrical tower, built from alternating yellow and red slender bricks, is most known for its equestrian staircase, a winding corridor which wraps itself seven and a half times around the hollow core, leading to the top.  The lack of stairs helped in the transport of fragile and heavy astronomical equipment to the top of the tower.  When the size of instruments proved to be much too large, as they improved over time, and the Ostervold Observatory was built, the Round Tower became outdated in the early 19th century.  The unusual internal structure, however, inspired something extremely unique…racing.

The first bicycle race held in the tower took place around 1888.  In 1911, a bicycle race down the tower was arranged by the local newspaper.  Other races followed, culminating in a world record in 1988 set by Thomas Olsen during a unicycle race.  Currently, every spring, a unicycle race is still held in the Rundetaarn.

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Other forms of transportation have also ascended this cylindrical tower.  Peter the Great, Czar of Russia, rode to the top of the tower on horseback in 1726 with his wife following in a carriage and in 1902, the first motorized car, a Beaufort, navigated the winding corridor to the summit.

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Bell Loft

Although the tower is attached to the Trinitatis Church, it has never served as a church tower, and the bells of Trinity Church hang in the Bell Loft which can be seen about halfway through your climb to the the top of the tower.  After your visit to the tower, you can walk through the Trinity Church, which was built in 1656, as a church for professors and students of the University.

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Trinity Church

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When you reach the observation deck, located about 114 feet above ground level, the old city of Copenhagen with its many spires and rooftops spreads out 360 degrees before you.  On a clear day, Sweden and the Oresund Bridge, which links the two countries, can be seen in the distance.

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While traversing the observation deck, take note of the wrought-iron lattice made in 1643 by Kasper Fincke who was a court artist in metalwork.  Christian IV’s monogram and the letters RFP are integrated into the latticework, representing the King’s motto, Regna Firmat Pietas (Piety strengthens the Realms).

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imageThe observatory is a small domed building, built on the roof of the tower, reaching a height of 21 feet and a diameter of 18 feet.  Built in 1929, it is still in use by amateur astronomers and the general public and is accessed by a narrow winding stone staircase from the observation deck.

Due to varied opening times throughout the year, I was unable to visit the observatory, although a few tour groups were witnessed being led through the space.

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As I made my way down to the street level…around and around…I pondered the history of this seasoned tower.  Certainly, not one of the most impressive views in Copenhagen, it is worth visiting for its uniqueness and if you are able to visit the observatory.  In a city where most things are quite expensive, in a bid to occupy an hour or so, it is worth the small admission fee.

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Rundetaarn (The Round Tower)

  • http://www.rundetaarn.dk/en/
  • Address:  Kobmagergade 52A, 1150 KBH K, Denmark
  • May 21-September 20, daily, 1000-2000, September 21-Mid October, daily 1000-1800, Mid October-Mid March, Mon, Thurs, Fri, Sat and Sun, 1000-1800, Tues and Wed, 1000-2100, Mid March-May 20, daily 1000-1800.  Closed December 24 and 25 and January 1
  • Observatory:  Currently, the observatory is studying the sun.  Open dates, Sundays from June 26 through August 14, 1300-1600.
  • Admission:  Adults, 25 DKK ( approx. $3.75), Children (ages 3-15), 5 DKK (approx. $.75), Annual season ticket 150 DKK (approx. $22.50).