palace – Snapping The Globe

Marie Antoinette Was Here

On the famed Île de la Cité, visitors are drawn to the magnificent stained glass windows of Sainte-Chapelle and the medieval French Gothic cathedral, Notre Dame. Yet, another historic structure, La Conciergerie, just next door to Sainte-Chapelle, is often overlooked!

But why? Perhaps the average tourist does not realize the significance of the building situated on the Boulevard du Palais, only wanting to check the boxes of the most famous landmarks in the City of Lights. Or, maybe…they simply do not allocate enough time for a building they may think is only a judicial one…not one that dates back to the 6th century and played an important role in the French Revolution.

Located within a fortified complex on the Île de la Cité, in the Seine River, the impressive medieval palace, was built as an historic Gothic dwelling to house the Kings of France, beginning with King Clovis. In 1200, King Philip II then made the Palais de la Cite the royal seat of power, remaining so until the 14th century. At this time, it then took on a judicial role as the Kings of France vacated to settle in at the Louvre and Chateau du Vincennes. As a Palace of Justice, it saw the addition of prison cells and became a royal prison, chancellery and seat of Parliament.

During the French Revolution of 1789 and the period of “The Terror” (1793-1795), the palace held and tried many political prisoners, but it is one that it is most famous for. It was in La Conciergerie that the ill-fated Queen Marie Antoinette was detained in captivity until her execution, along with 2700 others.

Marie Antoinette’s fate, a guillotined beheading, was similar to most prisoners who spent time at the converted cells within the palace walls. The word “conciergerie” is a French term meaning, “lodging of a housekeeper” as it was looked after by the person left in charge of the palace in the absence of the King and was known as one of the worst prisons of the period. Very few prisoners made it out alive, succumbing to illness, neglect or the blade of the guillotine.

While a majority of La Conciergerie’s square footage is dedicated to courthouses and administrative buildings, a most important historical part is open to the general public and has been transformed into a museum.

Having purchased a combination ticket with Sainte-Chapelle, we proceeded directly to the entry point on Boulevard du Palais once our tour of the holy chapel was complete. Since La Conciergerie still operates as a government building, we were guided through a security complex so that we and our belongings could be searched and run through metal detectors before being allowed access to the premises.

Since there are no guided tours, we were given a small tablet to aid in our navigation of the premises. As we entered the museum, we first moved through the Grande Salle (Great Hall), a palatial space reminiscent of its royal status as home to the kings and then on to the lower level, La Salle des Gens D’Armes (Soldier’s Hall). This massive space once served as an enormous dining room for palace workers and accommodated royal banquets and other formal occasions within its impressive 210 foot long area, divided by grand columns and vaulted 28 foot ceilings.

*La Salle des Gens D’Armes (Soldier’s Hall)*

The corridor of cells allowed for the understanding of the former prisoners’ living conditions. These dark and narrow cells with no furnishings, were not a place of luxury. While we gazed upon clean floors and felt the neutral climate from modern heating and air conditioning, it was certain that this place was once overrun with rats and other vermin and that prisoners suffered from both heat and cold and slept on the floor. By stark contrast, we were also privy to the small prison warden offices, complete with period furniture and more conveniences as well as the cells outfitted for wealthier prisoners.

A mural that shows the names of some individuals victimized by the Reign of Terror and imprisoned or tried at the Conciergerie. Their names are printed in different colors depending on their punishments, with those executed by guillotine shown in red. Other plaques and historical displays throughout the museum portion of the visit recount the history of the Revolution and the Reign of Terror, led by the infamous Robespierre.

Finally, we traversed the stairs to the site of the cell of Marie Antoinette. The queen was held in this cell during the final two months of her life during the Reign of Terror. Here, the sanctuary, Girodins’ Chapel, was originally a place of worship that was then converted to a collective cell during the Revolution. After the Revolution, the “Expiatory Chapel” was built to atone for the queen’s execution and pay tribute to her and other royal figures executed during that time period. Nestled in the back of the chapel, there is a shrine covered with black walls, covered in silver tears. Located at the supposed site of the queen’s bed, a faux marble altar is decorated with a text to honor her memory and the last letter from Marie-Antoinette to her sister-in-law, Madame Elisabeth. Period furnishings show how her cell may have been decorated as in contrast to the less wealthy prisoners; she was given a bed, furniture and servants. A detailed reconstruction of her cell is available for inspection.

*Re-creation of Marie Antoinette’s cell*

Just outside of Girodins’ Chapel is the garden in the women’s courtyard. Here, female prisoners were allowed to wash their clothes in the fountain, walk around, and eat outside, a nice perk not afforded to the male prisoners.

La Conciergerie is not a large museum but an important one and we completed our tour in a short time span. If you find time to traverse the Île de la Cité or visit Notre Dame (when reopened) or Sainte-Chapelle, take an extra hour to tour this interesting piece of Paris’ significant history. It may not have the views of the Eiffel Tower or the artwork of the Louvre, but it will give an understanding of the French Revolution and Marie Antoinette’s last days. While it is not the only site where you might see an actual guillotine blade, it might be the one worth remembering.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

La Conciergerie

Address: 2 Boulevard du Palais, 75001 Paris
Hours: 0930-1800, daily. Closed December 25 and May 1.
Admission: Adults, €11.50 (US$ 12.60), Under 18 years and EU Citizens (18 – 25 years old), free entry, Persons with reduced mobility and accompanying person, free entry. Free entry with Paris Pass and Paris Museum Pass. Free entry on the first Sunday of the month from November to March. Combined ticket with Sainte-Chapelle, €18.50
Getting There: Metro, Cité, line 4. Bus, lines 21, 24, 27, 38, 58, 81 and 85.

A Royal Residence

Within a mile from Madrid’s Plaza Espana stand many notable architectural masterpieces.

These include the notable Royal Palace of Madrid, home to the Kings of Spain from Charles III to Alfonso XIII, a popular tourist venue in the Spanish capital.

If your interests, however, lie in the palaces where the lesser members of royalty reside(d), you can also find the Palace of the Duke of Infatado and the Liria Palace in the area.

The Liria Palace, located only a few blocks from my hotel, caught my attention as it was described not only as the residence of the Duke of Alba but also as an art museum.

Heading there in the late afternoon for its reopening at four o’clock, I paid my admission and joined three others to receive our audio guides and join our host. Dismayed to see a sign stating that photos were not allowed except of the exterior, I vowed to be as sneaky as I could to capture at least a few things on film.

Although not being allowed to capture the beauty of this royal residence was disappointing enough, I soon discovered that although my audio guide was in my native tongue, the tour guide would only be speaking Spanish! Well, I haven’t been studying the language for the past year and a half for nothing!

Making our way to the front of the neoclassical palace and entering through the front double doors, we began to watch a short film on the palace’s history. Again…in Spanish, but my studies are paying off because I understood a great deal.

After the film’s completion, we followed our guide up the magnificent staircase to the second level and paused to listen to the narration describing each of the artistic pieces that graced the landings and nooks and crannies.

Following our guide, we then made our way from room to room on the ground and first floors, analyzing each’s unique features and artwork, gleaning what we could from the additional narratives that our guide contributed.

An art museum? Yes, but more of an extensive art collection set in an exquisite home. Hundreds of paintings filed the walls, highlighting intricate architectural features, and many personal photographs were displayed on desks and mantles. Of particular interest was the library, home to more than 18,000 prints, including the first edition of Don Quixote and the largest collection of handwritten manuscripts from Christopher Columbus.

The Liria palace was built in 1770 by architect Ventura Rodriguez and commissioned by James Fitz-James Stewart, the third Duke of Berwick and Duke of Liria. Over the years, the palace survived fire, losing part of its archives and the Spanish Civil War, where part of its façade was demolished. It was passed on to the House of Alba in the early 19th century and was the location where the last empress consort of the French, Eugenie de Montijo, spent her remaining days.

Today, the palace is the residence of Carlos Fitz-James Stewart, son of the 18th Duchess of Alba, and is open to the public to display its remarkable private collection of European art, including painting by Goya and Rembrandt, engravings by Durer and Van Dyck, marble and bronze sculptures from the Roman Empire to the neoclassical period as well as ceramics, armor, weapons, tapestries and empire style furniture.

While the palace is an interesting stop on Madrid’s list of countless attractions, I think it is one for those solely interested in art and the palace’s historical value. For me, the entrance fee was a bit steep, however, it was an attraction that I could squeeze in during the afternoon on my short visit. For those interested in hitting the city’s highlights, the Royal Palace is a short distance away and the city’s prestigious Museo Nacional del Prado may be the starting point for visitors whose interests lie in art. All in all, the tour was extremely informative and gave me a different insight to the residences of Spain’s royal families and for that, it was much appreciated.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Liria Palace

https://www.palaciodeliria.com/
Address: Calle de la Princesa, 20 28008
Hours: Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday, mornings, 1015, 1045, 1115, 1145, 1215, 1245. Afternoons, closed. Thursday and Friday, mornings, 1015, 1045, 1115, 1145, 1215, 1245. Afternoons, 1615, 1645, 1715, 1745, 1815, 1845. Saturday and Sunday, mornings, 945 1015, 1045, 1115, 1145, 1215, 1245. Afternoons, 1545, 1615, 1645, 1715, 1745, 1815. Closed on January 1, 5 and 6 and December 24, 25 and 31.
Admission: €15.00
Getting There: Metro, Plaza de España (L2, L3, L10), Ventura Rodríguez (L3). Bus, 001, 002, 1, 2, 44, 62, 74, 133, 138, C1, C2

The Middle of the City

There are five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Ecuador.

The city of Quito received the prestigious honor in 1978.

Notorious for it equatorial crossing, Quito is known as the Middle of the World. It’s famous Old Town, which helped to earn its UNESCO World Heritage status, can be found in the middle of the city.

Founded in the 16th century on the ruins of an Inca city, the capital of Ecuador is one of the best preserved and least altered historic centers in Latin America. The city’s chief attraction is its Old Town, el Centro Historico, and its ample array of churches, monasteries and convents which date back to the beginnings of the colony. The Old Town spans a relatively small area, so it is quite easy to cover the distance in a day. Trying to decide what to see within that area is the most difficult part.

The best way to begin the exploration of Quito is in the Plaza de la Independencia, the city’s main square. Since the Basilica had taken up our entire morning, we would officially begin our tour the Old Town here.

Also known to the locals as Plaza Grande, the square is a part of the city’s rich history and a place where they go to chat, relax, play, eat and sometimes, get their shoes polished! It is surrounded by some of the most beautiful buildings in the city, including the Governor’s Palace (Palacio de Gobierno), the home and office of the Ecuadorian president, the Metropolitan Cathedral (Cathedral Metropolitana) and a centralized fountain surrounded by well manicured gardens.

Deciding to have a bite to eat before beginning our explorations we wandered into the Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop’s Palace), a beautiful manor located along the north side of the plaza, which is the official residence of the Archbishop of Quito. In its three cobblestone courtyards, there is a multitude of shops and eateries. In this mall, we found Cafe del Fraile situated on the second floor, extending onto the ornate wooden balconies.

The food and service were equally as good as the scenery, both inside the restaurant and out. Seated on the balcony, we had an excellent view of the courtyard below and of some of the beautiful religious artwork that decorated it. So mesmerized by the theological pieces, I had to take a walk throughout all of the rooms, to make sure I didn’t miss anything!

After our meal was complete, we proceeded into the plaza. We found that the police had completely surrounded the square with tall wire fencing and would only let us out onto Venezuela Street. Not sure what was happening, our question was answered a short time later when a band of protesters came marching down the street, carrying signs and bullhorns. Deciding to cross over to the other side of the square on another street, we headed to the Church of La Compañía de Jesus (The Church of the Society of Jesus).

After paying our admission, I inquired as to whether photos were allowed. Not surprisingly, I was told no, as is the norm in many of the churches in Ecuador. Of course, after beginning our tour of the church, I was so enthralled with the sheer artistry of the interior, that I had to try and capture as much as I could without being seen.

Built over a span of 160 years, this church is known as the most beautiful church in the city and possibly all of Ecuador. Its gold leaf interior, elaborate design and traditional architecture are some of the most captivating I have ever witnessed.

Moving on, we headed to the El Museo Camilo Egas…well, not really headed. As we were walking by, we were invited in by the security guard. Not sure of what we were going in to see, we just decided to go with it.

This museum is dedicated to one of the great modern Ecuadorian artists of the twentieth century, Camilo Egas. This exhibition showed the different stages of his work during his lifetime (1898-1962) and is housed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion.

As we walked along in the city, we enjoyed the handsome architecture…some buildings in better condition than others. The thing we enjoyed the most, however, was the people, most going about their daily activities and those practicing their traditional trades…the hatters, shoemakers and food vendors.

It was pretty easy to navigate the city using Google Maps on my Iphone, however, people often relate that making their way around the Old Town can be quite confusing. Noticing different types of signs, we learned that many streets have two different names…the official name on green plaques and the historical name painted on ceramic tiles. Most streets in the immediate Old Town area, however, have been laid in a grid-like fashion, from north to south, so getting around the center is fairly easy.

Heading in the direction of Panecillo Hill, we had decided to make our way to Calle La Ronda, the local nightlife area, when we were stopped by the police. Apparently we stuck out like the tourists that we were and they wanted to make sure that we were cautious if we were heading toward Calle La Ronda, an area sometimes known for pickpockets and thieves. A lively area in the evenings, we had thought to check it out during the day in the event that we decided to head there for dinner later that evening.

Though the walk was uneventful, heading down off of the overpass to access Calle de la Ronda, seemed a little sketchy. Once we were on the street, however, we found it to be quiet and lined with many historic buildings. It was interesting to find out that in the past, men would serenade the women on the balconies. If they sung well, they were invited to come in and meet the family and the woman. For those that could not carry a tune? They were only met with a bucket of water to their head!

Music still plays a big part on the mile-long stretch of the pedestrian street. During the evenings, especially on Friday and Saturday, the music is cranked up and you can find many restaurants cooking up Ecuadorian specialties and vendors selling handicrafts. We did head there later that evening, but found the loud music to be quite overwhelming and chose a quieter restaurant at the far end of the street.

Swinging by the Plaza Santo Domingo, I had hoped to be able to enter the church, however we found it to be closed. Inquiring with some of the vendors, I was told it would be open later in the day. Knowing our afternoon was coming to a close, I admired the uncrowded plaza which lent to some beautiful photos and we moved on. Later that evening, when we departed Calle La Ronda, we were able to observe the Church of Santo Domingo lit up beautifully and how crowded the square had become. If street performers is your thing, this is the place to go!

Continuing on our walk through Old Town, we decided to visit the Museo del Carmen Alto which is situated on the location where Saint Mariana of Jesus (Quito’s patron saint) lived and died. (Read more about it in a future post)

Nearing Plaza Independencia, we found that the police had removed the barricades and the square was back to its normal everyday routine. Though my husband was growing tired of visiting churches and desperately wanted to grab a seat and have a beer, I persuaded him to make one last push.

The Metropolitan Cathedral situated on the southern side of the plaza was a place that I had really wanted to visit and it did not disappoint. Though it is not as extravagant from the exterior, the interior has some amazing treasures. (You can read more about in in a future post)

So that was it! SO much to do in Quito’s old town and we had only made a dent. We were spending the next day traveling out to Otavalo and its sprawling market, so seeing the rest of Quito’s treasures would have to wait until a future visit.

When spending time in Quito, there is so much more to see…the Museo Alberto Mena Caamaño and its waxworks, the Casa de María Augusta Urrutia or the Casa de Sucre, to get a glimpse inside the best preserved Old Town houses and the Governor’s Palace (tours leave every 20 minutes starting at 0900). And for the church lovers like me, there are countless sanctuaries throughout the city, many within Old Town, including Plaza de San Francisco and its baroque church, Basilica of our Lady of the Merced, The Church of El Sagrario, Carmen Bajo, Church of San Agustin, Santa Catalina de Sienna Church and Convent, Church of San Blas, El Belén, The Guápulo Church and Convent.

I really must go back!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

El Museo Camilo Egas

Address: Venezuela 1302, Quito, Pichincha
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0900-1700, Saturday-Sunday, 1000-1600
Admission: $1.00

Cafe Del Fraile

http://cafedelfraile.com/
Address: Chile Oe 4-22, Venezuela, Palacio, Arzobispal Mall, Quito, Pinchincha 170150
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1100, Sunday, 1000-0900

Plaza de la Independencia

Address: Garcia Moreno St. and Chile St., Venezuela, Quito, 170401, Ecuador
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Church of the Jesuits

http://fundacioniglesiadelacompania.org.ec/portal/m/Inicio
Address: Garcia Moreno N10-43, Quito 170401, Ecuador
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0930-1830, Saturday, 0930-1600, Sunday, 1230-1600
Admission: Free visits on the first Sunday of each month. Adult admission approximately $2.

Museo del Carmen Alto

http://www.museocarmenalto.gob.ec/
Address: Garcia Moreno y Rocafuerte, Junto al Arco de la Reina, Quito, Pinchincha 17015
Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, 0930-1730, daily
Admission: Adults, $3.00, Children, $1.00

Museo Catedral Primada de Quito

http://www.catedraldequito.org/
Address: Venezuela y Espejo 715, Quito
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700
Admission: National Tourists, Adults, $2.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $1.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $4.00. Foreign Tourists, Adults, $3.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $2.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $6.00.

Now, Naples!

How many vacations can a person go on in one year?

As many as you can!

First it was Greece and now it was time for Naples!

I had just returned from an amazing trip to Greece but now it was time to go to work and Rome…you know, make some money to pay for all that delicious moussaka that I had consumed over the course of ten days and top off those pounds with multiple scoops of gelato.

My middle son had not been able to join us on our Greek sojourn due to educational obligations over the summer and was anxious to travel somewhere with me for a few days. I decided that I would have him meet me in New York after my return from Rome and we would decide on a location for a few days. Dakar was our first choice but the flight filled up, leaving us to make another decision. Malaga was a possiblitity, but shortly after I landed from Rome, he informed me that he was “feeling like Italy”.

Oh, okay…if we must!

So, we boarded the flight and I went right back to where I had just returned.

It wasn’t a hard decision! However, since I have been to Rome many times, it was time to see something different…Naples and the Amalfi Coast.

Upon landing, we headed to Rome’s Termini Station and boarded a westbound train to Naples, quickly making a hotel reservation along the way.

Now, unless I’m confusing it with some other Italian city, it did not seem like Naples had ever gotten rave reviews from other travelers that I had spoken to. What I have learned over the years, however, is to try things out for yourself. What is good for the goose, is not always good for the gander!

Arriving on a Sunday, we made our way to our hotel and then set out to explore the area around the water’s edge. There were two impressive castles nearby…Castel Nuovo and Castel del Ovo, but sadly, we found them to be closed.

Enjoying the sunny, hot afternoon, we walked along the water’s edge, watching longingly as the locals enjoyed the sunshine and refreshing waters from the rocks and from their boats.

Admiring the infamous Mount Vesuvius from afar, we passed parks, statues, monuments and the Galleria Umberto, finally arriving in Piazza del Plebiscito (Square of the People), an immense space that houses the royal palace on one side and on the other by the neoclassical facade of the church of San Francesco di Paola.

Walking past the equestrian statues that stand in front of the church, (one depicting Ferdinand I of Bourbon and the other, Charles III of Bourbon), we made our way towards the Palazzo Reale.

Stopping the admire the eight statues of the most famous Kings of Naples, in the niches on the facade, we made our way to the side entrance hoping the find it open. As luck would have it, it was and we eagerly ducked inside, anxious to escape the oppressive August heat.

Built in 1600, the extensive palace was originally intended as the residence of King Philip III of Spain for his visits to Naples, however, it became the official residence of Viceroy Fernando Ruiz de Castro, earl of Lemos and his wife after 1734. Designed by Domenico Fontana, a prominent Italian architect, the building suffered damage during a fire in 1837 but eventually was restored by Gaetano Genovese.

After walking through the vaulted porticoes, we accessed the main entry with its immense staircase with twin ramps and coffered dome overhead.

Meandering through the richly appointed spaces, we encountered grand halls and chambers, many retaining their original works of art, tapestries, paintings, period furniture and fine porcelain. The highlights of the palace were the Throne Room, the Court Theater, the Royal Apartments and the Oratory (the queen’s personal chapel)…all lending to our understanding of the Italian royal life.

As the afternoon came to a close, despite our excitement of discovering this magnificent city, the effects of a long night of travel were starting to grab hold our reserves. There was so much to see and experience, but if we were not going to slumber through dinnertime, we decided we needed a bit of rest. Tomorrow would be a big day for checking things off of my personal bucket list, but on this night, after our nap, it would be important to seek out Naples’ famous margarita pizza!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Palazzo Reale

https://www.coopculture.it/en/heritage.cfm?id=76
Address: Piazza del Plebiscito, 1, 80132 Napoli NA, Italy
Hours: 0900-2000, Closed Wednesday
Admission: Full €6.00, Reduced €2.00 (citizens of European Union ages 18-25), Online tickets, reservation fee: € 2.00. Free, European and non-European citizens under 18 years. Free first Sunday each month from October through March and on the following dates, March 14, April 1, May 6, June 3, July 11, August 5, September 2, September 19.
Getting There: Bus ANM R1 Via San Carlo stop, Bus ANM R3 Via San Carlo stop, Bus ANM C4 Piazza Treiste e Trento stop

Palace of Holyroodhouse

The Royal Mile, in Edinburgh, is approimately one Scots mile long and runs through the heart of Old Town. On the highest end of the Royal Mile is Edinburgh Castle. At the lowest, the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse has served as the principal residence of the Kings and Queens of Scotland since the 16th century. The palace is the setting for state occasions, official entertaining and is home to the Queen during Holyrood week, which takes place at the end of June to the beginning of July.

After our dash to purchase our tickets before closing time, our visit began in the Palace forecourt. We stopped to catch our breath and admire the palace which was colorfully lit and ornamented for the Christmas holidays.

Entering the Palace, I snapped some beautiful pictures of the courtyard before noticing the signs (much to my dismay) informing us that photography was not allowed!

Nevertheless, we began by climbing the Great Stair which features a 17th century Baroque ceiling features plaster angels holding the Honours of Scotland. The bannisters were decorated with beautiful garlands and we realized that we were lucky to be here during the Christmas season.

Only parts of the Palace were open to the public and we moved on from the Great Stair into the Royal Dining Room, finding that it was originally part of the Queen’s apartments.

Other parts of the palace open to the public included the King’s apartments, which encompassed the presence chamber and privy chamber (now the Evening and Morning Drawing Rooms), antechamber, bedchamber and closet.

The suite of rooms on the first floor of the north-west tower incorporates an audience chamber and a bedroom. These rooms were occupied by Lord Darnley, Queen Mary’s second husband, in the 17th century. A second set of identical rooms on the second floor of the tower were occupied by Mary. The outer chamber contains the oratory and was the site of the murder of David Rizzo, Mary’s secretary and confidante. Many tourists are often convinced that they can see his blood stains on the floor here.

Noticing the waning light outside, I was anxious to find the exit and explore the Holyrood Abbey. The ruined abbey was founded n 1128 by King David I. The abbey church acted as a parish church until the 17th century, however, fell into disrepair after the 18th century. Wishing that the lighting would have been a little better, I was still able to get some haunting pictures of the ruins. I almost expected the naked, stripped and tortured ghost of Bald Agnes (Agnes Sampson), who was accused of witchcraft and said to roam the palace, to appear in my photographs!

It was the end of the day and although we had to vacate the premises, we considered ourselves fortunate to have been able to see an important part of Scottish history.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Palace of Holyroodhouse

https://www.royalcollection.org.uk/visit/palace-of-holyroodhouse
Address: Canongate, Edinburgh EH8 8DX, UK
Hours: November 1 through March 25, 0930-1630, daily (last admission 1515). March 26-October 31, 0930-1600, daily (last admission 1630). Closed May 16-27 and June 27-July 8.
Admission: Adults, £12.50, Over 60 / Student (with valid ID), £11.40, Over 60 / Student (with valid ID), £11.40, Under 5, free, Family ticket, £32.50 (2 adults and 3 under 17s). Other combination tickets available.
Getting There: Train via Edinburgh Waverly station. The palace is a 15 minute walk from the station. Bus number 6 and 35 stop near the palace. If travelling by car, a public car park is adjacent to the palace.

Palacio Real de Madrid

Sad and disappointed at having been turned away at the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales, finding an alternative way to occupy my afternoon was now a priority.

Having been in Madrid many times, I knew that both the Opera House or Teatro Real and the Royal Palace were a short walk from my location. Heading first to the Teatro Real and remembering once having to return for the tour, as it is conducted at predetermined times, I decided bypass this attraction. Continuing my walk, I ventured through the Plaza de Oriente to the Palacio Real de Madrid.

Standing on the site of the former Alcazar of Madrid, a medieval fortress transformed into a lavish palace by John II, Charles V and Phillip II, who in 1561 made it the official residence of the Spanish Monarchy, the current building’s construction began in 1738. With the completion in 1751, Charles III was the first ruler to install his court within the palace in 1764. Although, now presently the official residence of the Spanish Royal Family in the city of Madrid, the palace is only used for state ceremonies. King Felipe VI and the Royal Family choose to reside in the Palacio de la Zarzuela on the outskirts of Madrid.

After entering the security checkpoint and purchasing your ticket, you enter the Plaza de la Armeria. Standing in this vast courtyard, you are rewarded with spectacular views of the palace and the Catedral de la Almudena directly across and outside the palace gates.

Upon entering the palace, a turn to the right encounters the Grand Staircase, composed of a single piece of San Agustin marble and graced by two lions on the landing. Glancing upward, the magnificent frescoes on the ceiling, by Corrado Giaquinto, and depicting the Religion Protected by Spain takes one’s breath away. Before climbing the stairway, take a minute to glace back at the statue of Charles III in Romantoga.

“Religion Protected by Spain”, ceiling frescoe by Corrado Giaquinto

The tour is self-guided and takes you through many elaborately embellished chambers, including King Charles III’s Apartments, the Queen’s Apartment’s and Banqueting hall, Apartments of Infante Luis, including the Musical Instruments Room, The Royal Chapel and the Crown Room.

Apartments of Luis Infante, Musical Instruments Room

Photos are allowed when entering and on the Grand Staircase, however, are not allowed throughout the first floor and is strictly enforced. Having mastered the art of sneaking a few shots, I was able to get a few photos within some of the rooms using my iPhone.

After your tour of the main palace is complete, walk out to the back of the palace and gaze upon the Campo del Moro Gardens and the exquisite view beyond. The gardens here are so named because in 1109, during an attempted reconquest of Madrid, Muslim leader Ali ben Yusuf, allegedly camped here with his troops.

Continue walking to the front right corner of the premises, while facing Catedral de la Almudena, and enter the Real Armeria or the Royal Armory. The armory is considered one of the world’s best, housing pieces from as early as the 13th century. Tournament pieces made for Charles V and Philip II and full armor and weapons that Emperor Charles V used in the Battle of Muhlberg are the highlights of the collection.

Quite glad that I noticed the small Royal Armory sign before I left the palace, I had curiously ventured over to this corner of the Plaza de la Armeria. Worth taking the time to enter, it was something that my son and I had missed a couple of years ago. Again, pictures are not allowed in these quarters and it is an extreme shame, as there are a vast number of beautiful pieces.

The Palacio de Real Madrid is an historic part of the city and certainly a must-see on a visit to Madrid. Combine it with a visit to the Teatro Real, the Monastery de las Descalzas or the Catedral de Almudena, all within the same area. Take a few minutes to wander through the adjacent Plaza de Oriente, admiring the fountain and the many statues nestles within the gardens. And lastly, combine it with a nice meal at the many restaurants located in the area or at the nearby Plaza Mayor, maybe stopping to browse at some of the local’s artwork that line the street. All in all, much history and culture can be experienced in this one area of the city.

Metro stop nearest to Teatro Real and Palace

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Palacio de Real Madrid

http://www.patrimonionacional.es/en/real-sitio/palacios/6039
Calle de Bailén, s/n, 28071 Madrid, Spain
Hours: Royal Palace, October-March, 10:00-18:00, April-September, 10:00-20:00. Ticket office closes and last entry one hour prior to posted closing.
Hours: Campo Del Moro, October-March, 10:00-18:00, April-September, 10:00-20:00
Admission: €10, children under 5 years, free
Metro: Lines 5 and 2, Opera Station.