madrid – Snapping The Globe

A Christmas Trio

Every year, I look forward to my layovers in December.

I bid layover in cities that are known for their outstanding Christmas markets. Covid put a damper on this tradition for a couple of years, but this year, markets were back in full swing and I had a trio to visit.

Brussels was the first on my schedule and I remembered fondly purchasing beautiful lace ornaments many years ago at the market in the city center. Setting out in the early afternoon to get a leg up on the crowds, we headed towards the Grande Place, but first wandered into the Les Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, the glass roofed arcade filled with cafes, theaters and luxury stores. Having the distinction of being the first covered shopping arcade in Europe, it attracts hundreds of visitors daily wishing to experience its beautiful architecture and unique shopping opportunities. Rather than wait for the market to purchase some of the lace ornaments I was seeking, I found some here with Christmas motifs, in the event that I did not encounter them later. The gallery was bedecked with garland, lights, Christmas trees and Santa figures, making us excited for what was to come.

Making our way into the Grande Place, we found Christmas trees both in the square and on the balcony of City Hall, but our main focus was on the life-sized nativity in the center of the square. We joined the queue of fellow visitors, lining the fenced in area to gaze upon the holy scene which depicted the birth of Jesus Christ.

Exiting the Grande Place, we followed the path of small huts erected for the occasion which offered sweets food items, drinks and a variety of gift items. My favorite hut, however, sold smoutbollen, fried donut balls coated in powder sugar, which reminded me of the beignets I usually purchase when I visit my Louisiana home.

After our snack, we headed to Place Sint-Katelijine (Place St. Catherine), an area I am well familiar with as our layover hotel was once located very near and known for its Church of Saint Catherine, the beautiful Victorian church which I wrote about in the past (https://snappingtheglobe.com/?p=5577).

While I had not been extremely impressed (except for the smoutbollen) with the market offerings or the markets appearance near the Grande Place, it was now growing dark and this is what I came to Brussels to see!

*Place Sint-Katelijine Christmas Market*

Two long lines of lighted Christmas huts stretched out before us, ending at the giant red-lighted Ferris wheel. There was a wide array of offerings for purchase and as we shopped our way to the end of one row, we stopped just short of the Ferris wheel to watch the Christmas carol singing moose and then to enter the warm and welcoming champagne bar! Now, I rather fancy myself a beer-kind-of-girl, but joining my friend for some champagne and conversation while we warmed ourselves near the wood-burning stove seemed so festive and I just wanted to stay here all night! However, all good things must come to an end, so we shopped our way back the way we had come and set out to find a nice welcoming Belgian restaurant for dinner while admiring the beautiful Christmas lights above the Brussels’ streets.

*Place Sint-Katelijine Christmas Market* *and Champagne Bar*

My next trip was a few days later to Madrid, Spain. I had read up on the city’s markets and was excited to learn that our hotel overlooked a very nice one just across the street in the Plaza de Espana. While I was excited to experience this particular market, the one that I had my eye on was located in the Plaza Mayor, which I had learned offered nativity sets and individual nativity items. As a collector of unique nativity sets, I was excited to find a special item from Spain.

The market in Plaza de Espana was fairly busy in the afternoon and I was tempted to take a seat in the Paulaner Biergarten for an afternoon beer. Instead, I perused the different stalls and checked out the Christmas tree before making my way on foot towards the Plaza Mayor.

Much to my surprise, I encountered a small market in the Plaza Santo Domingo, but so early in the month, only a handful of the small wooden huts were open. Continuing my walk, I happened upon the Plaza de Isabel II, with its giant metal Christmas tree decorated with red ornaments and a troop of Spanish dancers giving the onlookers a cultural treat.

*Christmas decorations and (a creepy) Santa in Madrid*

*Plaza de Isabel II Christmas Tree (day and night)*

Finally, after what seemed like miles of walking, I found the entrance to the Plaza Mayor. Still late in the afternoon, the lights were not yet illuminated, but I decided to make my way through the maze of red huts that filled the square. On the outskirts, there were many vendors selling wreaths, greenery and other Christmas décor, but each of the stalls in the interior, seemed to offer one of two things…nativity sets or Chinese junk. Indeed, I was in the market for a nativity set, but as I made my way from hut to hut, I realized that it was pretty much all the same type of figurines, in different sizes. I assumed that people purchased an initial set of a particular size and each year, purchased different pieces to add to their collection, beyond the basic setup of Jesus, Mary, Joseph, Kings, shepherds, angels and animals. With what was offered, you could create whole village scenes with running water and electric lights. While if you have the room for this and its your preference, this would be the place to find your yearly addition, however, I was not impressed with the artistry, suspecting that many of these piece were imported and not Spanish made. I didn’t give up, however, traipsing throughout the square, hoping to find an inspirational piece created in Spain, yet all I found from the vendors not selling small cheap toys, hats and odds and ends were the same resin figurines, while dodging children throwing firework poppers in my path and having to skirt parents with large strollers and visitors pushing their way through the crowd.

*Nativity Figurines in Plaza Mayor Christmas Market*

At six o’clock, the square was illuminated and I was happy to be able to see it lit up, bequeathing us all with a festive glow. Taking a quick selfie under the green Christmas tree, I headed out of the square towards Puerta del Sol. Here and there, along the way, I encountered some unique lights over the city streets and in the plaza, the golden lit Christmas tree as well as the lighted Royal Postal Service Building and its iconic clock tower.

There were so many people making their way into the plaza…police were monitoring the streets which were allowing only one-way foot traffic on some streets. Not wishing to remain in a situation, where there could be a potential problem with crowd control, I decided to make my way back home, passing by Plaza de Isabel II once again, but now with its large tree lighted in blue and red. Finally, at Plaza de Espana it was nighttime and it was lit up quite beautifully, with full \-sized lighted nativity figures and more people than I could have imagined filling the square and waiting for their opportunity to take a few turns on the ice skating rink. Seizing a few moments to appreciate the twinkling lights on the real fir Christmas tree, I decided that I had had enough of the crowds that day and it was time to retire to my hotel to rest and have a nice beer in the warmth of the lobby of my hotel, looking out on the throngs of shoppers and holidaymakers! In a few days, I would get the opportunity for the German Christmas market experience…this was the one I was most looking forward to!

*Plaza de Espana Christmas Market at night*

A few days later I was on my way to Frankfurt, Germany. I initially had grand plans of taking the train to Weisbaden and Frankfurt’s Christmas markets, but thankfully, I came to the realization that being a Saturday, all of these markets were going to be extremely crowded and it was best to be conservative with my shopping ambitions. Although I didn’t get much sleep on the airplane and only a couple of hours in my hotel when we arrived, I powered through to arrive in the nearby Mainz market during the early afternoon, first passing through the Schillerplatz which offered a small market fare with a few decorations. Though I longed to see the Mainz market lit during the nighttime hours, less crowds seemed to be a fair tradeoff by going early.

Well, I can tell you, if we had waited until the nighttime hours, there would have been no way to see what we wanted to see, purchase what we wanted to purchase or eat and drink what we wanted to eat and drink. Each booth had lines of people waiting for service and although we were able to buy our potato pancakes, candy coated almonds and gluehwein, it took a lot of perseverance and patience. I was lucky enough to snag my German beer steins quickly, but my little wooden German smoking men, took about a half hour and drinking my entire cup of gluehwein to make the purchase…same for my nativity set at the Kathe Wolhart store.

Still, it was magical, seeing the full-sized nativity, carousels, the six-tiered pyramid and other beautiful decorations. But after fighting crowds for three hours, we headed back to the hotel to meet our crew for happy hour.

A while into our cocktail enjoyment, someone looked out of the window and noticed numerous lighted vehicles passing in front of the hotel. Quickly, we all headed outside and were treated with a parade of lighted farm vehicles. We had no idea where they were coming from or where they were going, but seeing the effort that they put into lighting each one and their attempts to make each unique put us in the Christmas spirit and dissipated my disappointment in not seeing the Mainz Christmas Market lighted at night.

So there it was…a trio of Christmas markets this year, to get me into the spirit!

Next year, which cities will it be?

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Brussels Christmas Markets

https://christmasmarkets.io/belgium/brussels-christmas-market/
https://www.facebook.com/plaisirsdhiver.winterpret.winterwonders/
Address: Grand Place
Address: Place Sainte-Catherine 41, 1000 Brussels, Belgium

Madrid Christmas Markets

https://christmasmarketsineurope.com/madrid-christmas-markets/
Address: Plaza de Espana
Address: Plaza Mayor

Mainz Christmas Market

https://christmasmarketsineurope.com/mainz-christmas-market/

The Almudena Cathedral

While there are many churches in Madrid, one that is relatively new is the one that takes center stage…for many reasons.

The Almudena Cathedral.

I’ve walked by this stunning piece of architecture countless times on my visits to Madrid. Why I never stepped inside, I am not sure. Perhaps it wasn’t during opening hours, or I simply had other more pressing matters to attend. On this particular day, however, it was open and I had nothing on the agenda.

But it was not the cathedral that I happened upon first. It was the crypt.

Noticing the open doors, located in front of the Arab Wall, I wandered in.

The first thing I noticed were the columns. 400 of them!

Four hundred columns fill the space, each crowned with biblical figures, nature scenes and the symbol of Madrid, the bear and the strawberry tree (which I had also spotted earlier near my hotel).

Mirroring the same architectural footprint as the cathedral above, it is the largest crypt in Spain and the resting place of some of the country’s most notable families and to King Alfonso XII’s first wife Maria de las Mercedes de Orleans. As I wandered through the space, admiring each of the incredibly bedecked side chapels with their Byzantine mosaics and Gothic stained-glass windows. Many of the tombs were extremely elaborate, demonstrating the power and wealth of the families of those interred. The most fascinating facet, however, was the Chapel dedicated to Nuestra Senora de la Flor de Lis (Our Lady of the Lily), possibly the oldest image of the Virgin in the city.

*Nuestra Senora de la Flor de Lis (Our Lady of the Lily)*

*Capilla de los Exemos Srs Marqueses de Urquijo*

*Capilla Virgen de Rosario and Capilla de la Exema Srs Marquesa de San Juan*

Overall, it had the grand feeling of a cathedral yet more peaceful as would be expected.

Now I was ready for the cathedral itself.

Making my way out of the crypt, I walked around the corner praying that I would find the cathedral open.

The sun was getting lower in the afternoon sky as I glanced up at the cathedral’s façade. Making my way up the stairs, it was hopeful to see other people exiting the entrance.

The church, which was completed and consecrated by in 1993 by Pope John Paul II, is the first cathedral to be consecrated outside of Rome, but plans for the church date back to 1879 when Francisco de Cubas wanted to create a pantheon for the late Queen Maria de la Mercedes. Construction was started four years later, but those plans were changed as the idea for a cathedral was conceived.

Inspired by French cathedral architecture, it was the first to include a crypt and it was to be a cathedral built by the people. When donations came up short, this and other construction problems delayed the project further. The crypt was opened in 1911 but further construction was delayed with the outbreak of the Civil War. As Gothic style went out of vogue, new architectural solutions were sought out. Work was restarted in 1950 with the cloister being completed in 1955 and the main façade in 1960. With many years of construction to follow, the cathedral was finally considered finished in 1993.

As I entered and made my way around the cathedral, what struck me most was not the beautiful stained glass windows (which were amazing), not the numerous columns that filled the space (like in the crypt), not the massive organ in the choir loft, but the colorful ceiling above. It was something like I’ve never seen and very much unexpected as it not matched the classical style!

After my departure, I learned that the cathedral houses a museum which contains effigies of the city’s patron saints, the Virgin Mary of la Almudena and San Isidro of Labrador and an exhibition of the life of the Church through the seven sacraments. The museum contains twelve halls which contain mosaics, Episcopal symbols and vestments. I also learned that I had missed access to the cathedral’s dome. My understanding of this area of the cathedral is that it is not particularly noteworthy however, I am not one to pass up an opportunity! After further research, I discovered I was visiting on a Saturday afternoon when closing time for these two features was well before my arrival. So my advice to those seeking to visit both the crypt and the cathedral and the entirety of it interior…get there early!

Guess I will have to go back!

And be early!!!

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Almudena Cathedral

http://www.catedraldelaalmudena.es
Address: Calle de Bailén, 10 28013, Madrid, Spain
Hours: Monday to Sunday, 0900-2030. Museum and crypt, Monday to Saturday, 1000-1430.
Admission: Cathedral, free. Museum and crypt, Adults, €6 (US$ 6.30), Students, groups, and seniors, €4 (US$ 4.20).
Getting There: Metro, Opera, lines 2 and 5. Bus numbers 3, 25, 39, 148.

Marquis Landmarks

Walking along the Manzanares River in Madrid, especially on a beautiful day, is a real treat as many landmarks and parks sit on or near its banks.

As I left the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida, I decided to make my way to the Chapel of the Virgin of the Harbour which lies a short distance away, in the shadow of the Royal Palace of Madrid.

Walking along the Paseo de la Florida, I neared the metro station of Principe Pio and spotted a large structure in the middle of the traffic circle.

The San Vincente Gate.

Curiosity had me whipping out my phone to see what information I could find on this interesting piece of architecture. What I found, however, was more interesting than I anticipated.

While Madrid is filled with many historic architectural features, this was not one of them!

In 1726, a structure, commissioned by the Marques de Vadillo, stood in this area. Consisting of three giant arcs topped with a figure of San Vicente, the gate was also known as Puerta de Florida. Standing for about fifty years, it was then demolished to make way for much needed roadways. In 1775, King Carlos III, contracted Francesco Sabatini to design a new gate, closer to the river. Built of granite and limestone, it featured two shutters and an arc, Doric columns and military symbols. Unlike the first one, it stood for over two hundred years…but much like the first, it too was disassembled in the 1980s for traffic renovations.

In 1992, a proposal was passed by the City Council of Madrid approving an exact replica of the original 1775 gate. Original molds were used to construct the single arch and two blind apertures, decorated with two Doric columns and two pilasters in its interior.

Risking life and limb to make my way through the traffic zooming around the traffic circle, I crossed the roadway to get a closer look. What I thought was part of the gate, I quickly realized was remaining Christmas lighting, set within the openings of the the arches. The sun was low in the sky, highlighting the structure and I noted that if I stuck around for a couple of hours, I might get to see these holiday lights enhancing the structure.

If I wanted to get to the Chapel of the Virgin of the Harbour, however, I needed to make haste, so off I went, walking along the Paseo de la Virgin del Puerto. Many people were out due to the unseasonable warmth and I grew excited as I spotted the spires of the chapel in the distance.

Noting its unique appearance, I thought that it reminded me of a German palace. I approached from the rear, appreciated the sun’s rays highlighting the beautiful towers and roofline.

This chapel was built between 1716 and 1718 by Pedro de Ribera and is one of the first examples of baroque architecture in Spain. It was damaged by missiles in 1936, during the Spanish Civil War, which left only the walls and the octagonal dome. In 1945, it was proclaimed a national monument and reconstruction was begun by architect Carlos Mendoza. The church was reopened in 1951.

On this day, however, it was not open. I had read that it was often closed to the public and the best time to obtain access was immediately after masses of which I had hoped there would be one during the afternoon. I had hoped that it might arrive just at that time, however, it was locked up tight and I realized that the only afternoon masses were on Saturdays. Sad, considering that in the interior, you can see the tomb of Marquis Vadillo…yes, that same Marquis responsible for the San Vicente Gate, which I had just visited. What a coincidence!

While my visit to the chapel was a bit of a bust, I did get to get up close and personal to the Gate of San Vicente and learn that the chapel houses the remains of the person responsible for this gate. So, although I didn’t quite get to do what I had set out to, I learned a little bit about something unique in Madrid.

And that’s what visiting a city is all about…discovery!

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Gate of San Vicente

https://www.esmadrid.com/en/tourist-information/puerta-de-san-vicente
Address: Glorietade San Vicente, s/n28008
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Príncipe Pío station (L6, L10, R). Bus, 3, 25, 33, 39, 41, 46, 62, 75, 138, 148, C1, C2, N16, N18, N19, N20, SE730.

Chapel of the Virgin of the Harbour

https://www.ermitavirgendelpuerto.es/
Address: Paseo de la Virgen del Puerto 428013 Madrid, Spain
Hours: Unknown
Admission: free

Plan Goya

Plans A, B, C, D, E and F.

When your time is limited in a city, it is imperative to have multiple plans because you never know…websites have incorrect hours, the lines are too long to get into your intended destinations or you happen to sleep too long.

On this particular day, I had plans to visit the Pantheon of Illustrious Men. It was some distance from my hotel and it closed at 3:00 p.m, so I knew that when I laid down for a quick nap, it had to be just that…quick.

So, what do you think happened?

Yes, I slept a little too long.

On this day, however, I had broken my cardinal rule. There was no Plan B, C, D, E or even F.

As I rushed to get ready, I ran through list of attractions, churches and museums in the area. Temple of Debod came to mind and I thought I would head that way to see what I would find.

It was a beautiful day and I headed on foot in the direction of the Temple of Debod. I didn’t remember that it was a place where you could enter the building; I had only remembered that it was in a park. Yet, when I arrived, there was a line formed waiting for entry.

“Okay, is this worth it?” I asked myself, looking at the empty water basins that make up the monument. I remembered walking by in the past, and it was quite lovely, but waiting an extraordinary amount of time due to Covid spacing requirements for entry, didn’t seem like a productive way to spend my shortened afternoon. Quickly taking a look at my Google maps, I realized that I wasn’t extremely far from the Real Ermita de San Antonio de La Florida (The Royal Chapel of St. Anthony of La Florida).

A few years ago, I had dragged a couple of my coworkers to this small church before taking a ride on the Teleferico en Rosales. I didn’t remember much about it except that it was extremely famous for its interior painting.

Walking through the Parque de la Montaña and near the Rosaleda del Parque del Oeste, I enjoyed the warmth of the winter afternoon. Finally, crossing the brightly bedecked pedestrian walkway above the train tracks, I found myself at the rear of the church.

Though it wasn’t extremely far, it had taken about 45 minutes and it suddenly dawned on me that it could be closed. I also suddenly remembered that there had been no photography allowed when I had first visited…oh brother…this afternoon was surely going to be a bust!

Oh well, I was here.

Walking toward the front of the church, I found a sign directing me to the entrance on the right. There was no one to greet me and I made my way through the hallway and right into the church, where I found two other visitors, eyes trained on the ceiling. Following their lead, I looked upward and remembered what this church was famous for.

Goya.

Okay, so I had moved on to Plan G. Plan Goya.

In the late 17th century, a chapel, devoted to St. Anthony of Padua, had a great many devotees, especially those of women without future matrimonial prospects. To this day, it still hosts of a pilgrimage, held on June 13, that is attended by young adult women who hope to be married.

The chapel was eventually demolished and relocated to the estate of La Florida. King Charles V ordered the construction of the new chapel between 1792 to 1798 and commissioned painter Francisco de Goya to adorn its vaults with a series of frescoes. Goya, aware of the importance of this chapel to its devotees took great care with his creation and these frescoes ultimately became some of the greatest of his masterpieces.

Due to its importance to the city of Madrid and to Spain, in 1905, the chapel was declared a National Monument and Francisco de Goya’s remains were moved here in 1919 from Bordeaux (where he had died in 1828). In order to preserve the original as a museum, an identical chapel was built beside it, in 1928, for worshipers.

As my eyes moved around the room, I was entranced by the muted movement within each series. These frescoes, depicting the miracles of St. Anthony of Padua, were painted over six months time during which Goya developed many new techniques that he went on to incorporate into his art going forward. The most captivating series, however, are within the dome and depict Saint Anthony raising a man from the dead and absolving his father who had been falsely accused of his murder.

Take a moment to sit on one of the benches, prepare for a neck ache and take it all in.

As I did this for a while, my neck spasms then began. Moving around, I then took in the two altarpieces painter by Jacinto Gómez Pastor, on each side of the rectangular Greek cross-plan chapel, as well as a gold cherub chandelier dropping from the dome. At the front of the chapel, I admired the crucifix, within the apse, decorated with angels and fronted by Goya’s tomb.

The chapel is and contains one of Madrid’s most spectacular treasures and it is a place that all visitors should seek out. Best part for me? Photographs are now allowed!

As I always like to suggest to people, “head on over,” to places that I recommend, I think that in this case it takes on an interesting connotation here.

When Goya’s remains were to be brought to Madrid, the French officials realized that his head had gone missing. Madrid’s response?

“Bring him home, even headless!”

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Real Ermita de San Antonio de La Florida

Email: http://www.madrid.es/ermita
Address: Glorieta San Antonio de la Florida, 528008
Hours: Daily, 0930-2000, Closed Monday. Summer hours, from June 15-September 15, 0930-1400, Tuesday to Friday. Saturday, Sunday and public holidays, 0930-1900.
Admission: free
Guided tours (conducted in Spanish and English, with prior booking by calling 91 542 07 22, from 9:30 to 20:00.
Getting There: Metro, Príncipe Pío (L6, L10, R). Bus, 41, 46, 75, N20. Local train (Cercanías).

The Walk of Shame

The Hollywood Walk of Fame in Los Angeles is one of the state’s top attractions.

The Walk of Fame in Madrid…a forgotten attempt at imitation.

While checking out places of interest near the Plaza de Espana in Madrid, something caught my eye! A few blocks from my hotel was the city’s own version of the iconic Hollywood attraction!

Opened in 2011, the Spanish Film Academy, wishing to pay tribute to Spanish actors, actresses and filmmakers, laid the groundwork for the installation of twenty-five stars (one for each year of the Academy’s lifetime). The site was chosen for its proximity to the “Golem” and “Renoir” cinemas and also the bookstore, “8 1/2” that specializes in cinematography, however, the site selection wasn’t without controversy. Many thought it would be better to place the “stars” on the Gran Via, a busy avenue more frequented by tourists. While the plan was to install a star per year after the initial induction, only one other was embedded in the sidewalk.

Excited to see Madrid’s cinematic tribute interpretation, I headed out to walk the few blocks to its location. Thinking that it would be easy to spot, I discovered that it was tucked away on a side street and I actually walked past it…twice.

Finally, I turned onto Calle de Martin de los Heros.

Oh, what a disappointment!

Instead of a Walk of Fame, I discovered a Walk of Shame!

Stars dedicated to Luis Buñuel (filmmaker), Pedro Almodovar (filmmaker, producer, screenwriter, former actor), Fernando Rey (actor), Penelope Cruz (actress), Javier Bardem (actor) and Antonio Banderas (actor) among others, lined one side of the street. The sidewalk was dirty, cracked and unkempt. Cigarettes were stuck into the edges of the squares and even one star, that of Luis Garcia Berlanga (director), was crossed with barrier tape. Even poor Javier Bardem’s star was missing one of its appendages!

Although I am positive that certain actors and actress are proud that their country of origin has honored them, I am sure that they are more proud of their five-pointed, terrazzo and gold stars on Hollywood Boulevard.

My advice?

No pierdas tu tiempo (don’t waste your time)!

Go visit the stars of Penelope Cruz, Javier Bardem and Antonio Banderas in California!

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Paseo de la Fama de Madrid

Address: C. de Martin de los Heros, 13, 28008, Madrid, Spain
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Plaza de Espana, lines 3 and 10. Bus, 001, 1, 133 and 74. Train, C1, C10, C3A, C7.

Olé!

The dance between bull and matador, in a ring surrounded by thousands of cheering spectators, is a sport of the ages.

Olé!

The dance floor that this spectacle takes place on is within a bullring of which there are many.

The most prestigious bullring in the world, Plaza de Toros Las Ventas, can be located in Madrid, Spain. Completed in 1929 and inaugurated in 1931, it was designed in the Moorish style by architect José Espeliú after the determination that the former main bullring at the Carratera de Aragon was not sufficient to seat the crowds usually in attendance.

Today, it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city, inviting millions of visitors each year to explore the venue when the excitement of the sport is not at its height. With a seating capacity of just over 23,000, it is the largest arena in Spain and the third largest in the the world. It is also extremely popular with local and visiting bullfighting enthusiasts during the bullfighting season.

My experiences with Las Ventas date back many years. My interest in attending a bullfight was piqued when I spotted a poster while sightseeing within the city on my first visit. Heading there that evening, I found it to be quite the spectator sport, full of breath holding excitement! A few years later, remembering the event, I took my son to the Las Ventas to see the iconic arena and to visit the Bullfight Museum. Trying on costumes and seeing the arena from the inside gave him an idea of what it might be like to experience the unique tradition. Another few years passed and I headed once more to the arena, with friends, to see another bullfight. This one was quite memorable with the bull jumping the fence and the patrons scattering!

When I found myself back in Madrid recently, I decided that a trip back to Las Ventas to visit the museum would be a stimulating way to fill the afternoon. It is always awe-inspiring to see this beautiful arena up close after emerging from the neighboring metro station, and set against a bright blue sky, this time was no exception. Of course, on a day when a bullfight is scheduled to take place, the place exudes excitement and is filled with hordes of people, anxious to enter and see the spectacle, but without the crowds, it makes it easier to appreciate the building itself and the beautiful statues, honoring the art of bullfighting which grace the premises.

Though this day was a quiet one for the arena, I was excited to visit the museum once again. After paying my entrance fee, I was given an audio guide which would assist me on my exploration.

Starting at the Puerta Grande (Door of Triumph, also called the Gate of Madrid), I gazed upward at the keyhole entryway, the place where all bullfighters dream of exiting while being carried on the shoulders of their adoring fans. In the vestibule, there is a replica of the inaugural poster dating back to 1931 which marked the occasion when eight matadors took part in the first bullfight of Las Ventas on June 16 as well as plaques commemorating the great matadors and patrons of the sport.

Mounting the stairway, I made my way to the upper levels of the arena offering close and personal looks of bulls preserved by taxidermy. Standing next to these monstrous beasts, bereft of life, it is quite difficult to imagine yourself in the ring alongside the living, snorting, stomping, angry being that is anxious to impale you with its razor-sharp horns and trample your body until it is a mangled mess.

Stepping out onto the terrace, I was offered a great perspective of the plaza surrounding Las Ventas, but the best views are achieved by turning and setting your eyes upon the building itself. It is here that those most interested in the architectural details of the building can get an intimate look as well as come to grab a breath of fresh air, take a quick smoke or steal a bit of time with their loved one.

My audio guide then led me into the main arena, the area where the all of the action takes place. Walking through these portals, I remembered the first time I ever entered, seeing the dance floor of the bull and matador and scouring the hot afternoon for my assigned seat, which was purchased without any knowledge of where I would be sitting. The seats in the circular arena are characterized by how close or how far they are to the action and by three very important things if you are seeing a fight during the afternoon…shade (sombra), semi-shade (sol y sombra) and sun (sol). You can imagine, that without any purchasing knowledge I did not end up, in the shade. At first, I was relieved to find that I was in a semi-shade seat. For a while, I was in the shade, but as the sun made its way across the Spanish sky, it went in the direction other than where I wanted, making my seat a sun seat! With my entertainment, I also got a sunburn!

This time around, I was here for an architectural experience, but as I stepped into the space, I discovered that the usually impressive view was obscured by a large domed tent sitting in the middle of the ring. I guess there was a concert or event that was going to be held here, but it was quite disappointing to have the usual spectacular view thwarted by this plexiglass eyesore.

Nevertheless, I made my way around the seating area, checking out the Royal Box with its Mudéjar architecture, the clock on the other side of the ring and the ring’s five gates and the ones where the bulls enter the area, called the toriles. Making my way through these gates, I was able to see where the bulls are watered and housed prior to the fight as well as the infirmary. It was also here that I encountered a Virtual game which puts the participant in the ring with a bull. After watching two gentlemen enjoy the fabricated interaction, I decided that I needed to don the goggles and see what this was all about. I have to admit, this bull charging me was so lifelike, I really wanted to run!

Moving on, it must have been my religious side and love of churches that led me to the chapel. Next to the bullring, this is the most significant part of Las Ventas for a bullfighter. Though quite small, it is where the matador mentally prepares and prays for his well being during his upcoming challenge. This Baroque, historic place of worship is dedicated to the Virgen de la Paloma, the patron of Madrid and the Virgin of Guadelupe, the patron of Mexico.

Finally, I made my way into the museum which offers a large collection of paintings, busts and matador clothing items. The best part, however, was when I was leaving. The gentleman at the front desk, who took audio-guide, offered to give me a poster which I graciously accepted. In fact, I shamelessly asked him for another for my son who had visited before. He gave me not one more, but two more! After taking a minute to open it, I learned that it was an old bullfight poster, marking an important fight during the previous season.

Doesn’t every wall need a bullfight poster?

Mine does.

Olé!

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Plaza de Toros Las Ventas

https://lasventastour.com/es/la-plaza/las-corridas-de-toros/
http://www.las-ventas.com
Address: C/ Alcalá, 237, 28028 Madrid
Hours: January to June, October to December, 1000-1800, July to September, 1000-1900, daily. Days of bullfights, tours close three hours before the start of the bullfights. Closed December 25 and January 1. Ticket office, opening Days: 1000-1400, 1700-2000. Bullfight Day: Uninterruptedly from 1000 until the start of the bullfight.
Admission: Adults, €14.90, Students and Retirees, €11.90, Reduced Price (Children under 12 years old), €5.90, Children under 5 years, free. The ticket includes the Bullring, Museum and the Virtual Reality Experiences. An audio-guide is included and available in 10 different languages (Spanish, English, French, Italian, German, Portuguese, Japanese, Korean, Russian and Chinese).
Getting There: Subway, Ventas (line 2). Buses, 12, 21, 38, 53,106, 110, 146

Bridging the Gap

While walking in the La Latina neighborhood of Madrid, a glance at my map offered up an icon illustrating a point of interest.

Viaducto de Segovia.

Since I was headed in that general direction, I thought I would check it out.

I won’t lie. I saw the word viaduct and the picture in my head was of something I would see in Rome. Old…brick…arches. And don’t forget the boatloads of tourists milling about taking pictures.

What I found instead was more of a modern structure…a bridge spanning Segovia Street, 25 meters below, thus giving it its name.

Segovia Street lies in the basin formed by the old San Pedro Creek which was one of the most important routes of entry from Segovia into Madrid many centuries ago. At the time, Bailén Street ended at the edge of the ravine and pedestrians were forced to make the steep descent and ascent from Segovia Street to reach the area of the Royal Palace of Madrid.

When the Royal Court was established in 1561, King Philip began to promote the expansion of the city. He visualized extending Bailén Street across the ravine to allow easy travel to other parts of the city and country.

Although the architect of the Royal Palace, Juan Bautista Sacchetti, conceived a plan to build a span, lack of funding put the proposal on the back-burner until 1874, when a structure made of wood and iron was completed. This structure remained until 1932 when architects Ferrero, Aracil and Aldaz created plans for a concrete structure. Taking only two years to complete, this bridge sustained damage during the Spanish Civil War in the Seige of Madrid, but was repaired in 1942.

Though a plan was put into place in the later part of the 1970’s, to demolish the bridge, a decision was finally made to restore it instead. Today’s construction is a result of that restoration, which allowed for the increase of its height and span and more importantly, the increasing traffic loads and capacity.

Today, the Viaducto de Segovia is not a main tourist attraction, but one that tourists merely “happen” upon due to its proximity to the Cathedral de la Almudena and the Royal Palace of Madrid. It is quite famous, not only for having been featured in many literary works and Spanish cinema, but for a reason most do not like to talk about. Until 1998, it was the site of countless suicides, thus being dubbed “the suicide bridge”. Recognizing the ease of access pedestrians had over the low edges, authorities finally erected transparent screens to prevent further attempts.

If you find yourself in the area, take a walk across the bridge on the pedestrian lanes for a beautiful view of the Casa de Campo and the lake. When heading south, take the stairs on the left hand side to venture down to Segovia Street for a more intimate view of the bridge’s structure.

It truly is an architectural marvel and a piece of Madrid’s developmental history.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Viaducto de Segovia

Address: Calle de Bailén, 12, 28005 Madrid, Spain
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Meet Me There

One of the things I love about European cities is their public squares.

At any hour of the day, you can find people sitting on the benches, relaxing, talking and watching their children play. They are also the perfect meeting points for those coming together from various points in the city.

Many of these squares have beautiful fountains and artwork and are attractive to tourists for their outdoor cafes, perfect for people watching.

My favorite square in Madrid, is the Plaza Mayor. One of the first places I ever visited years ago, I still love it’s warm medieval ambiance, the many restaurants that spill into the plaza, the performers and the multitude of traditional artists that come each day and night to sell their wares. As proof, many of their paintings grace the walls of my home.

In the heart of Madrid, the Plaza Mayor was first built during the Hapsburg period of Philip III’s reign in the 15th century, just down the road from another famous plaza, Puerta del Sol. It was originally named, Plaza del Arrabal and used as the main market. After the plaza’s transferral to the city of Madrid in 1561, renovations resulted and after three major fires in its history, what you see today can be credited to architect Juan de Villanueva who lowered the surrounding buildings, closed the corners and created large entrances to the square.

Measuring 423 feet by 308 feet, the square contains 237 balconies, nine gates and a statue of Philip III on a horse in the center. In the past, executions and bullfights were once held here, but today, its major (and much milder) events include the annual Christmas market and on Sunday mornings, a stamp collecting and coin collecting market.

Next to the Plaza Mayor, on Arco de Cuchillero Street, is something that should not be missed on a visit to Madrid. The Restaurante Botin, one of my favorites, which is the oldest restaurant in the world and offers some affordable and delectable culinary delights.

Another spot that people meet in Madrid is close by…Puerta del Sol. Not only a meeting spot now, but a popular location in the past.

Between the 17th and 19th centuries, the Puerta del Sol’s Post Office was the destination for couriers coming from other areas of Spain. Residents, eager for the latest news, would congregate in the hopes of gleaning what they could from the couriers and each other.

The square originated as one of the gates in the city wall that once surrounded Madrid in the 15th century. The name of the gate, which faced east, came from the rising sun which decorated the entry. Today, there is no trace of the ancient wall or the gate, but there are other landmarks that many descend upon the area to see.

The former House of the Post Office, by Jacques Marquet was completed in 1768, now houses the seat of the Presidency of the Madrid Community. Situated across the street from the square, you can also find Kilometer Zero embedded in the sidewalk just under the building’s clock tower. This monumental slab marks the point from which the distances of Spain’s national roads are measured and specifically the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads. It is also the starting point for Madrid’s numbered streets. The closer to the kilometer mark 0, the lower the street number.

Within the square, you can find a mounted statue of Charles III of Spain (El Rey Alcalde, the mayor-king) who is honored here for the extensive public works he set in motion.

Another famous statue is The Bear and the Strawberry Tree (el Osso y el Madroño) which is the symbol of Madrid. I will always remember this statue as once I was instructed to meet someone there, not knowing it had been moved (in 2009) from the north side at the entrance to Calle del Carmen. Needless to say, I couldn’t find it and my name was mud with the person the next day!

Another interesting statue found in the square is the Mariblanca. This statue is a copy, possibly of the famous Venus de Milo and marks the place of a former fountain displaying that figure.

My favorite thing in the square, however, can be found high overhead. The Tío Pepe lighted sign is located above the square’s former Paris Hotel. After a three year absence for renovation of the building, the sign, was returned to its original location in 2014. Tío Pepe (Spanish for Uncle Joe) has been greeting visitors to Puerta del Sol, since 1938, while enticing them to try the famous brand of Sherry.

Puerta del Sol has been the site of many demonstrations over the years, but mainly attracts visitors for its shopping, restaurants and sites. Not to be missed, if you find yourself traveling through the city on Madrid’s extensive metro and are passing through Sol, jump on out and check it out.

Just recently, I had the pleasure to stay near the Plaza de España. This beautiful square exhibits more of a park like feel and is extremely peaceful, though still located in an extremely urban area.

Located at the intersection of Grand Vía and Princesa streets, there is a large number of hotels, shopping and restaurants located nearby as well as the Royal Palace.

Despite the many attractions located in this area, however, many people come to Plaza España to see the Cervantes Monument, sculpted by Rafael Martínez Zapatero and Lorenzo Cullaut Valera. Commissioned by King Alfonso XIII on the anniversary of the publication of the second part of Don Quixote, the main part of the fountain with the figures of Don Quixote and his squire Sancho Panzo was erected in the 1920’s but not fully completed until the 1960’s when the sculptures of Aldonza and Dulcinea were added on the side.

Two architecturally important buildings flank the square, Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana, two of the tallest buildings in Madrid, thrilling those impressed by progress. For those, however, who want to enjoy nature, Plaza España offers shaded and wooded areas, a fountain and pond and seasonal landscaping.

After a long walk, I grabbed a seat opposite the monument to rest and enjoy the view. Glancing at my watch, I noticed it to be almost five, the time I had planned to meet a friend here. After my long walk from Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, my feet were enjoying the respite and my eyes were enjoying the natural and architectural gems set before me.

Maybe I should have made it five-thirty…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Plaza Mayor

https://www.madrid.es/portales/munimadrid/es/Inicio/Instalaciones/Plaza-Mayor?vgnextfmt=default&vgnextoid=0a4492355c51c010VgnVCM2000000c205a0aRCRD&vgnextchannel=df22f073808fe410VgnVCM2000000c205a0aRCRD
Address: Plaza Mayor, 28012 Madrid
Hours: daily, 24 hours
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, stops Opera, Sol and Tirso de Molina, lines 1, 2, 3, 5

Puerta del Sol

https://www.spain.info/en_US/que-quieres/arte/monumentos/madrid/puerta_del_sol.html
Address: Plaza de la Puerta del Sol, s/n, 28013 Madrid, Spain
Hours: daily, 24 hours
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, stop Sol, lines 1, 2 and 3

Plaza de España

https://www.esmadrid.com/en/tourist-information/plaza-de-espana?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F
Address:
Hours: daily, 24 hours
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, stop Plaza de España, lines 3, 10

All Roads Lead to Sol

Walking through one of the busiest and well known places in Madrid, the Puerta del Sol, I noticed a crowd of people across the street.

They were all looking down.

Being of a curious mind, I needed to see why.

In front of the old Post Office building, under the clock tower, a slab is embedded in the concrete sidewalk.

Kilometer Zero.

This stone slab marks the point from which the distances of Spain’s national roads are measured and specifically the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads. It is also the starting point for Madrid’s numbered streets. The closer to the kilometer mark 0, the lower the street number.

If you’ve ever heard the saying, “all roads lead to Rome”, this type of marker explains why as many countries used these type of traditional markers, most commonly in their capital cities, with the most famous marker being the “Golden Milestone” in Ancient Rome.

The Madrid marker was originally placed in this location in 1950 and replaced with newer stones in 2002 and 2009, however with the replacement in 2002, it was turned the wrong direction, but corrected in 2009.

Today, it attracts thousands of tourists and tour groups who come to see where travel begins.

If you are in the historic Puerta del Sol, challenge yourself to find Kilometer Zero.

It won’t be that hard…just look for a group of people looking down!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Kilometer Zero

http://www.comunidad.madrid/
Address: Puerta del Sol, 7, 28013 Madrid, Spain
Hours: daily, 24 hours
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, stop Sol, lines 1, 2 and 3

Palacio Real de Madrid

Sad and disappointed at having been turned away at the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales, finding an alternative way to occupy my afternoon was now a priority.

Having been in Madrid many times, I knew that both the Opera House or Teatro Real and the Royal Palace were a short walk from my location. Heading first to the Teatro Real and remembering once having to return for the tour, as it is conducted at predetermined times, I decided bypass this attraction. Continuing my walk, I ventured through the Plaza de Oriente to the Palacio Real de Madrid.

Standing on the site of the former Alcazar of Madrid, a medieval fortress transformed into a lavish palace by John II, Charles V and Phillip II, who in 1561 made it the official residence of the Spanish Monarchy, the current building’s construction began in 1738. With the completion in 1751, Charles III was the first ruler to install his court within the palace in 1764. Although, now presently the official residence of the Spanish Royal Family in the city of Madrid, the palace is only used for state ceremonies. King Felipe VI and the Royal Family choose to reside in the Palacio de la Zarzuela on the outskirts of Madrid.

After entering the security checkpoint and purchasing your ticket, you enter the Plaza de la Armeria. Standing in this vast courtyard, you are rewarded with spectacular views of the palace and the Catedral de la Almudena directly across and outside the palace gates.

Upon entering the palace, a turn to the right encounters the Grand Staircase, composed of a single piece of San Agustin marble and graced by two lions on the landing. Glancing upward, the magnificent frescoes on the ceiling, by Corrado Giaquinto, and depicting the Religion Protected by Spain takes one’s breath away. Before climbing the stairway, take a minute to glace back at the statue of Charles III in Romantoga.

“Religion Protected by Spain”, ceiling frescoe by Corrado Giaquinto

The tour is self-guided and takes you through many elaborately embellished chambers, including King Charles III’s Apartments, the Queen’s Apartment’s and Banqueting hall, Apartments of Infante Luis, including the Musical Instruments Room, The Royal Chapel and the Crown Room.

Apartments of Luis Infante, Musical Instruments Room

Photos are allowed when entering and on the Grand Staircase, however, are not allowed throughout the first floor and is strictly enforced. Having mastered the art of sneaking a few shots, I was able to get a few photos within some of the rooms using my iPhone.

After your tour of the main palace is complete, walk out to the back of the palace and gaze upon the Campo del Moro Gardens and the exquisite view beyond. The gardens here are so named because in 1109, during an attempted reconquest of Madrid, Muslim leader Ali ben Yusuf, allegedly camped here with his troops.

Continue walking to the front right corner of the premises, while facing Catedral de la Almudena, and enter the Real Armeria or the Royal Armory. The armory is considered one of the world’s best, housing pieces from as early as the 13th century. Tournament pieces made for Charles V and Philip II and full armor and weapons that Emperor Charles V used in the Battle of Muhlberg are the highlights of the collection.

Quite glad that I noticed the small Royal Armory sign before I left the palace, I had curiously ventured over to this corner of the Plaza de la Armeria. Worth taking the time to enter, it was something that my son and I had missed a couple of years ago. Again, pictures are not allowed in these quarters and it is an extreme shame, as there are a vast number of beautiful pieces.

The Palacio de Real Madrid is an historic part of the city and certainly a must-see on a visit to Madrid. Combine it with a visit to the Teatro Real, the Monastery de las Descalzas or the Catedral de Almudena, all within the same area. Take a few minutes to wander through the adjacent Plaza de Oriente, admiring the fountain and the many statues nestles within the gardens. And lastly, combine it with a nice meal at the many restaurants located in the area or at the nearby Plaza Mayor, maybe stopping to browse at some of the local’s artwork that line the street. All in all, much history and culture can be experienced in this one area of the city.

Metro stop nearest to Teatro Real and Palace

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Palacio de Real Madrid

http://www.patrimonionacional.es/en/real-sitio/palacios/6039
Calle de Bailén, s/n, 28071 Madrid, Spain
Hours: Royal Palace, October-March, 10:00-18:00, April-September, 10:00-20:00. Ticket office closes and last entry one hour prior to posted closing.
Hours: Campo Del Moro, October-March, 10:00-18:00, April-September, 10:00-20:00
Admission: €10, children under 5 years, free
Metro: Lines 5 and 2, Opera Station.