ole – Snapping The Globe

The dance between bull and matador, in a ring surrounded by thousands of cheering spectators, is a sport of the ages.

Olé!

The dance floor that this spectacle takes place on is within a bullring of which there are many.

The most prestigious bullring in the world, Plaza de Toros Las Ventas, can be located in Madrid, Spain. Completed in 1929 and inaugurated in 1931, it was designed in the Moorish style by architect José Espeliú after the determination that the former main bullring at the Carratera de Aragon was not sufficient to seat the crowds usually in attendance.

Today, it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city, inviting millions of visitors each year to explore the venue when the excitement of the sport is not at its height. With a seating capacity of just over 23,000, it is the largest arena in Spain and the third largest in the the world. It is also extremely popular with local and visiting bullfighting enthusiasts during the bullfighting season.

My experiences with Las Ventas date back many years. My interest in attending a bullfight was piqued when I spotted a poster while sightseeing within the city on my first visit. Heading there that evening, I found it to be quite the spectator sport, full of breath holding excitement! A few years later, remembering the event, I took my son to the Las Ventas to see the iconic arena and to visit the Bullfight Museum. Trying on costumes and seeing the arena from the inside gave him an idea of what it might be like to experience the unique tradition. Another few years passed and I headed once more to the arena, with friends, to see another bullfight. This one was quite memorable with the bull jumping the fence and the patrons scattering!

When I found myself back in Madrid recently, I decided that a trip back to Las Ventas to visit the museum would be a stimulating way to fill the afternoon. It is always awe-inspiring to see this beautiful arena up close after emerging from the neighboring metro station, and set against a bright blue sky, this time was no exception. Of course, on a day when a bullfight is scheduled to take place, the place exudes excitement and is filled with hordes of people, anxious to enter and see the spectacle, but without the crowds, it makes it easier to appreciate the building itself and the beautiful statues, honoring the art of bullfighting which grace the premises.

Though this day was a quiet one for the arena, I was excited to visit the museum once again. After paying my entrance fee, I was given an audio guide which would assist me on my exploration.

Starting at the Puerta Grande (Door of Triumph, also called the Gate of Madrid), I gazed upward at the keyhole entryway, the place where all bullfighters dream of exiting while being carried on the shoulders of their adoring fans. In the vestibule, there is a replica of the inaugural poster dating back to 1931 which marked the occasion when eight matadors took part in the first bullfight of Las Ventas on June 16 as well as plaques commemorating the great matadors and patrons of the sport.

Mounting the stairway, I made my way to the upper levels of the arena offering close and personal looks of bulls preserved by taxidermy. Standing next to these monstrous beasts, bereft of life, it is quite difficult to imagine yourself in the ring alongside the living, snorting, stomping, angry being that is anxious to impale you with its razor-sharp horns and trample your body until it is a mangled mess.

Stepping out onto the terrace, I was offered a great perspective of the plaza surrounding Las Ventas, but the best views are achieved by turning and setting your eyes upon the building itself. It is here that those most interested in the architectural details of the building can get an intimate look as well as come to grab a breath of fresh air, take a quick smoke or steal a bit of time with their loved one.

My audio guide then led me into the main arena, the area where the all of the action takes place. Walking through these portals, I remembered the first time I ever entered, seeing the dance floor of the bull and matador and scouring the hot afternoon for my assigned seat, which was purchased without any knowledge of where I would be sitting. The seats in the circular arena are characterized by how close or how far they are to the action and by three very important things if you are seeing a fight during the afternoon…shade (sombra), semi-shade (sol y sombra) and sun (sol). You can imagine, that without any purchasing knowledge I did not end up, in the shade. At first, I was relieved to find that I was in a semi-shade seat. For a while, I was in the shade, but as the sun made its way across the Spanish sky, it went in the direction other than where I wanted, making my seat a sun seat! With my entertainment, I also got a sunburn!

This time around, I was here for an architectural experience, but as I stepped into the space, I discovered that the usually impressive view was obscured by a large domed tent sitting in the middle of the ring. I guess there was a concert or event that was going to be held here, but it was quite disappointing to have the usual spectacular view thwarted by this plexiglass eyesore.

Nevertheless, I made my way around the seating area, checking out the Royal Box with its Mudéjar architecture, the clock on the other side of the ring and the ring’s five gates and the ones where the bulls enter the area, called the toriles. Making my way through these gates, I was able to see where the bulls are watered and housed prior to the fight as well as the infirmary. It was also here that I encountered a Virtual game which puts the participant in the ring with a bull. After watching two gentlemen enjoy the fabricated interaction, I decided that I needed to don the goggles and see what this was all about. I have to admit, this bull charging me was so lifelike, I really wanted to run!

Moving on, it must have been my religious side and love of churches that led me to the chapel. Next to the bullring, this is the most significant part of Las Ventas for a bullfighter. Though quite small, it is where the matador mentally prepares and prays for his well being during his upcoming challenge. This Baroque, historic place of worship is dedicated to the Virgen de la Paloma, the patron of Madrid and the Virgin of Guadelupe, the patron of Mexico.

Finally, I made my way into the museum which offers a large collection of paintings, busts and matador clothing items. The best part, however, was when I was leaving. The gentleman at the front desk, who took audio-guide, offered to give me a poster which I graciously accepted. In fact, I shamelessly asked him for another for my son who had visited before. He gave me not one more, but two more! After taking a minute to open it, I learned that it was an old bullfight poster, marking an important fight during the previous season.

Doesn’t every wall need a bullfight poster?

Mine does.

Olé!

For more pictures, check out Facebook and Instagram@snappingtheglobe.

Plaza de Toros Las Ventas

https://lasventastour.com/es/la-plaza/las-corridas-de-toros/
http://www.las-ventas.com
Address: C/ Alcalá, 237, 28028 Madrid
Hours: January to June, October to December, 1000-1800, July to September, 1000-1900, daily. Days of bullfights, tours close three hours before the start of the bullfights. Closed December 25 and January 1. Ticket office, opening Days: 1000-1400, 1700-2000. Bullfight Day: Uninterruptedly from 1000 until the start of the bullfight.
Admission: Adults, €14.90, Students and Retirees, €11.90, Reduced Price (Children under 12 years old), €5.90, Children under 5 years, free. The ticket includes the Bullring, Museum and the Virtual Reality Experiences. An audio-guide is included and available in 10 different languages (Spanish, English, French, Italian, German, Portuguese, Japanese, Korean, Russian and Chinese).
Getting There: Subway, Ventas (line 2). Buses, 12, 21, 38, 53,106, 110, 146