tours – Snapping The Globe

Olé!

The dance between bull and matador, in a ring surrounded by thousands of cheering spectators, is a sport of the ages.

Olé!

The dance floor that this spectacle takes place on is within a bullring of which there are many.

The most prestigious bullring in the world, Plaza de Toros Las Ventas, can be located in Madrid, Spain. Completed in 1929 and inaugurated in 1931, it was designed in the Moorish style by architect José Espeliú after the determination that the former main bullring at the Carratera de Aragon was not sufficient to seat the crowds usually in attendance.

Today, it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city, inviting millions of visitors each year to explore the venue when the excitement of the sport is not at its height. With a seating capacity of just over 23,000, it is the largest arena in Spain and the third largest in the the world. It is also extremely popular with local and visiting bullfighting enthusiasts during the bullfighting season.

My experiences with Las Ventas date back many years. My interest in attending a bullfight was piqued when I spotted a poster while sightseeing within the city on my first visit. Heading there that evening, I found it to be quite the spectator sport, full of breath holding excitement! A few years later, remembering the event, I took my son to the Las Ventas to see the iconic arena and to visit the Bullfight Museum. Trying on costumes and seeing the arena from the inside gave him an idea of what it might be like to experience the unique tradition. Another few years passed and I headed once more to the arena, with friends, to see another bullfight. This one was quite memorable with the bull jumping the fence and the patrons scattering!

When I found myself back in Madrid recently, I decided that a trip back to Las Ventas to visit the museum would be a stimulating way to fill the afternoon. It is always awe-inspiring to see this beautiful arena up close after emerging from the neighboring metro station, and set against a bright blue sky, this time was no exception. Of course, on a day when a bullfight is scheduled to take place, the place exudes excitement and is filled with hordes of people, anxious to enter and see the spectacle, but without the crowds, it makes it easier to appreciate the building itself and the beautiful statues, honoring the art of bullfighting which grace the premises.

Though this day was a quiet one for the arena, I was excited to visit the museum once again. After paying my entrance fee, I was given an audio guide which would assist me on my exploration.

Starting at the Puerta Grande (Door of Triumph, also called the Gate of Madrid), I gazed upward at the keyhole entryway, the place where all bullfighters dream of exiting while being carried on the shoulders of their adoring fans. In the vestibule, there is a replica of the inaugural poster dating back to 1931 which marked the occasion when eight matadors took part in the first bullfight of Las Ventas on June 16 as well as plaques commemorating the great matadors and patrons of the sport.

Mounting the stairway, I made my way to the upper levels of the arena offering close and personal looks of bulls preserved by taxidermy. Standing next to these monstrous beasts, bereft of life, it is quite difficult to imagine yourself in the ring alongside the living, snorting, stomping, angry being that is anxious to impale you with its razor-sharp horns and trample your body until it is a mangled mess.

Stepping out onto the terrace, I was offered a great perspective of the plaza surrounding Las Ventas, but the best views are achieved by turning and setting your eyes upon the building itself. It is here that those most interested in the architectural details of the building can get an intimate look as well as come to grab a breath of fresh air, take a quick smoke or steal a bit of time with their loved one.

My audio guide then led me into the main arena, the area where the all of the action takes place. Walking through these portals, I remembered the first time I ever entered, seeing the dance floor of the bull and matador and scouring the hot afternoon for my assigned seat, which was purchased without any knowledge of where I would be sitting. The seats in the circular arena are characterized by how close or how far they are to the action and by three very important things if you are seeing a fight during the afternoon…shade (sombra), semi-shade (sol y sombra) and sun (sol). You can imagine, that without any purchasing knowledge I did not end up, in the shade. At first, I was relieved to find that I was in a semi-shade seat. For a while, I was in the shade, but as the sun made its way across the Spanish sky, it went in the direction other than where I wanted, making my seat a sun seat! With my entertainment, I also got a sunburn!

This time around, I was here for an architectural experience, but as I stepped into the space, I discovered that the usually impressive view was obscured by a large domed tent sitting in the middle of the ring. I guess there was a concert or event that was going to be held here, but it was quite disappointing to have the usual spectacular view thwarted by this plexiglass eyesore.

Nevertheless, I made my way around the seating area, checking out the Royal Box with its Mudéjar architecture, the clock on the other side of the ring and the ring’s five gates and the ones where the bulls enter the area, called the toriles. Making my way through these gates, I was able to see where the bulls are watered and housed prior to the fight as well as the infirmary. It was also here that I encountered a Virtual game which puts the participant in the ring with a bull. After watching two gentlemen enjoy the fabricated interaction, I decided that I needed to don the goggles and see what this was all about. I have to admit, this bull charging me was so lifelike, I really wanted to run!

Moving on, it must have been my religious side and love of churches that led me to the chapel. Next to the bullring, this is the most significant part of Las Ventas for a bullfighter. Though quite small, it is where the matador mentally prepares and prays for his well being during his upcoming challenge. This Baroque, historic place of worship is dedicated to the Virgen de la Paloma, the patron of Madrid and the Virgin of Guadelupe, the patron of Mexico.

Finally, I made my way into the museum which offers a large collection of paintings, busts and matador clothing items. The best part, however, was when I was leaving. The gentleman at the front desk, who took audio-guide, offered to give me a poster which I graciously accepted. In fact, I shamelessly asked him for another for my son who had visited before. He gave me not one more, but two more! After taking a minute to open it, I learned that it was an old bullfight poster, marking an important fight during the previous season.

Doesn’t every wall need a bullfight poster?

Mine does.

Olé!

For more pictures, check out Facebook and Instagram@snappingtheglobe.

Plaza de Toros Las Ventas

https://lasventastour.com/es/la-plaza/las-corridas-de-toros/
http://www.las-ventas.com
Address: C/ Alcalá, 237, 28028 Madrid
Hours: January to June, October to December, 1000-1800, July to September, 1000-1900, daily. Days of bullfights, tours close three hours before the start of the bullfights. Closed December 25 and January 1. Ticket office, opening Days: 1000-1400, 1700-2000. Bullfight Day: Uninterruptedly from 1000 until the start of the bullfight.
Admission: Adults, €14.90, Students and Retirees, €11.90, Reduced Price (Children under 12 years old), €5.90, Children under 5 years, free. The ticket includes the Bullring, Museum and the Virtual Reality Experiences. An audio-guide is included and available in 10 different languages (Spanish, English, French, Italian, German, Portuguese, Japanese, Korean, Russian and Chinese).
Getting There: Subway, Ventas (line 2). Buses, 12, 21, 38, 53,106, 110, 146

In The Valley of the Andes

Between the towns of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, parallel to the river Vilcanota, lies the Sacred Valley.

Composed of many rivers flowing down gullies and valleys, the land is rich and fertile and was highly prized by the Inca people. Today, it is highly prized for the tourism it attracts, due to the large number of archaeological monuments, and is home to many indigenous people.

After a filling breakfast and one last glance through our packs to make sure we had everything for an extended day, we sat, patiently waiting to be picked up for our tour. After fifteen minutes past the time we had been told and much speculation that we had been forgotten, a small lady walked into the lobby of our hotel asking for someone with the first name of my husband but with a different last name. We walked over, thinking we didn’t understand her accent and identified ourselves, showing her our receipt.

“Let’s go.”

“But wait, the tour was in my name, not my husband’s and that’s not his last name,” I insisted as I glanced down at her paperwork attached to her clipboard.

“Yes, this is you. Let’s go.”

Go where? We were certain this lady had the wrong couple and who knew where we were heading.

Following her a short distance to a parking area next to the city bus stop, we found a large bus parked there and once again, insisted that we may be the wrong couple. As we were ushered onto the bus, they seemed pretty confident that they had indeed, not made a mistake.

A quick glance at everyone already on board, did not instill any confidence…they all appeared to be Peruvian and suddenly, I was thinking that we were on a city bus. As the bus pulled away from the stop, we laughed, thinking of how absurd this all seemed and where we might actually wind up.

Well, we, of so little faith, were completely wrong. We were on the correct bus as was confirmed by our guide who began to describe our day.

Our first stop would be Chinchero, where we would purchase our partial ticket for the sites we would visit. From there, we would continue on to Maras, Moray and then Urubamba for lunch. In Ollantaytambo, we would visit the ancient fortress where we would tackle more than 200 steps to reach the summit. From here, we would continue on to our final stops, Pisac, its citadel and finally, its market.

Almost an hour later, after watching the lush green landscape speed by, locals going about their everyday business, adobe homes and hundreds of political advertisements marring fences and buildings and soliciting votes for the next election, we pulled up to a small hill in the town of Chinchero.

Bracing myself for the lack of oxygen required for the climb, we followed our guide and the rest of the Pachamama Group (Mother Earth), as we were now known. Tickets purchased and validated, we were led up another hill past a small market offering colorful blankets, hats and trinkets to a plaza in front of a beautiful adobe church.

Though we were only able to inspect the church’s exterior, we learned that it was constructed in 1607 by the Spanish on the site of an Incan palace, believed to be that of Inca Tupac Tupanqui. The interior was described to be quite lovely with ornate painted ceilings and Catholic and traditional motifs.

Moving on to the open area past the church, we gazed out onto the beautiful, green, mountainous landscape and the fertile terraces and aqueducts, many still in use today. Produce grown on the land includes potatoes, olluco, oca, quinoa and fava beans and are sold at the local market. The ruins of the summer palace of Tupac Tupanqui can still be seen spilling down the hillside with splendid stonework and a stone throne with intricate carvings.

The day was beautiful and we were able to capture some stunning photographs, the first of many of the day.

After boarding our bus, we headed a short distance down the road into the center of Chinchero. Home to the Interpretation Center of Andean Textiles, the traditionally dressed women of the village offer weaving demonstrations to visitors, describing the age-old methods of making colors for the wool, and how the wool is washed, dyed and spun.

The young woman giving our demonstration was informative and funny and we enjoyed learning about how the many products we had seen so far on our travels were made. As she talked, it was hard not to glance around at the beautiful colors and interior of the structure we were in. Most intriguing was a small house with balconies situated behind the woman. Guinea pigs ran in and out of the doorways and peered out at the crowd, paws resting on the balcony railings. Though its no secret that guinea pig is considered a delicacy in Peru, one I had planned to try at some point, it was both quite amusing and yet, disturbing to see them in their last resting place.

After a vibrantly woven hat caught my eye, I made a deal with one of the young men working on the premises and then exited to the bus for our next stop, Moray.

Located about 27 kilometers from Chinchero, Moray, is believed to have been used as an agricultural laboratory by the Incas. Though not much more is known, there is speculation that the amphitheater-looking, circular, terraced depressions were used to test and experiment with crops. With temperature differences at each level of the terraces of 15 degrees Celsius, it is believed that each level was used to grow different crops and to test hybridization. Possibly, the many variations of potato grown in Peru originated at Moray.

As we stood looking out on the depressions and listening to our tour guide, it was awesome to think how advanced this civilization was. Traversing the paths around the terraces, we learned that parts of the terraces were completely original and some had been restored. Standing in front of one of the oldest depressions, we posed for pictures with the stunning Andes mountains behind us.

As our bus drove around the site and waited for us to make our way up the rocky, dusty path, we learned that our next stop would be Maras, another terraced area, but this one with a different purpose.

Salt.

Driving the winding, narrow road through the mountains, we occasionally pulled to the side to allow other buses and vans to pass. Looking out of the right window, a sea of white spread out in the valley below us, a striking sight amidst the brown, coarse scrub. Maras Salt ponds.

Though salt ponds are usually found on coastal plains, the mountain range we were traversing was once part of the ocean floor. As movement of the tectonic plates pushed the seabed up to form the Andes, the sea salt was locked into the rocks and subsequently pushed to the surface through the many springs that flow through the rocks. The ponds were created long before the Incas, however, who were known for most of the construction in this amazing valley.

Roughly 5,000 ponds, each about four meters in size and 30 centimeters deep, are staggered down the valley. Spring water is fed into the ponds and when full, left to evaporate. When the water has crusted over, the salt is scraped from the top, placed in a basket and allowed to drain.

The mineral-rich (magnesium, iron, calcium and zinc) salt is said to have healing properties and claim to help reduce stress and prevent conditions such as anemia and osteoporosis, in addition to being handy in the kitchen.

The one thing we found extremely interesting was that each of the salt ponds belong to a local family with the size relative to the size of the family. Some are not in use and all are always handed down to the next generation, never outsiders.

Continuing our journey in the mid-day, it was time to head to Urubamba and our lunch. Our group was divided into three and we were all dropped off at different restaurants, though I am not sure what differentiated us into these groups, guessing that it may have been the price we paid for each of our tours. My husband and I and two other couples were deposited at Inka’s House, a large buffet-style restaurant. The food was good at our lunch spot, though others claimed their restaurant was not very good.

Ollantaytambo, our next destination, is located at the northern end of the Sacred Valley. Often known by tourists as a common starting point for the Inca trail, it is also a boarding point for trains to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu.

We had been warned about the many steps we had to climb at the Ollantaytambo Fortress and now it was time to pay the piper. Since I was having trouble breathing after a couple of flights of stairs, how in the world was I going to make it to the top?

In the 15th century, Inca Pachacutec began construction of terraces for farming and an irrigation system. These terrace make up the Ollantaytambo Fortress which was once used for religious purposes and was then the site of a major battle in which resulted in Spanish defeat. The fortress was then later captured by Francisco Pizarro and his men.

As I began the arduous task of making my way to the top, I decided to revel in the climb and enjoy the view every time I had to stop for a breath. Slowly, I climbed, joining forces with another woman, who also insisted she couldn’t make it to the top. With much encouragement for each other, I finally caught up to my husband to the entrance to the temple complex, a short distance from the top.

The Temple of the Sun, an incomplete holy place holds the Wall of the Six Monoliths with its 50 ton stones and is the sight where all the tourists want to take their picture, showing the completion of their ascent. The temple was used as a calendar with its sun dials and other features.

As we moved away from the temple, we made our way to the Balcon Pata, a pathway leading to two large buildings. From here, we then made our way back down to the ceremonial area of the fortress. Looking across the valley, we could see the remains of old crop storehouses built by the Incas. Following the ridge-line, our guide pointed out the shape of a face….Wiracocha, a deity believed to be the creator of all. The area is accessible, however, very steep and much time is to be allowed for the full climb with beautiful views across the valley to the fortress.

Exiting the fortress area, we made our way through the Mercado Turistico. Taking a quick glance around, it was a colorful affair and we wished that time was included in our itinerary to browse the vendor’s stalls. Quickly grabbing two waters, we fought the crowds to keep up with our group and make our way back to our bus. Once on board, we discovered a few empty seats. No, we hadn’t lost anyone on the mountain, some of our group left us at this point to catch the train to Aguas Calientes, beginning their sojourn to Machu Picchu.

Making our way out of town, we headed up into the mountains. Our guide explained that since the gates to Pisac close at 4:00, we had to drive rather quickly in order to enter. Watching the clock closely as the day was coming to a close, we finally arrived with minutes to spare. Making our way to the parking area, we exited the bus an followed our guide up the terraced hillside to the citadel which sits at 9,751 feet, keeping watch over the village below.

The terraces here were similar to those found at Moray and thought to play the same role. The ruins higher up, include four separate areas, P’isaqa, Inti Watana, Qalla Q’asa and Kinchiraqay and offered stellar views of the valley. After an overview of the history by our guide, we were allowed to explore the Temple of the Sun, the remains of the buildings, including a residential settlement, several altars, water channels and ceremonial baths, as we glanced over the river at the open tombs carved into the rocky mountainside.

The wind was strong here and as the day was drawing to a close, we quickly walked through the site back to the parking lot and waiting bus, pausing to pose for a quick photo under the entrance sign.

Our last stop was in the town of Pisac, one that I had been very excited about. I had heard great things about their famous market and looked forward to purchasing some unique souvenirs. However, as we drove down the mountain, the sky was growing dark leading me to realize that the market would probably be closing upon our arrival. My prediction was accurate, but we were brought to a jewelry store for a lesson on assessing the quality of silver. Since it was communicated in Spanish, we attempted to understand, however, it was easier to browse the merchandise.

Finally, our day was drawing to a close. As we drove the winding roads back to Cusco, our heads nodded and our eyes closed. Yes, it was a long day, however, we had seen everything that we had set out to. The sites of Sacred Valley was amazingly different, yet the same, all having history dating back to the Incas. Machu Picchu is a given, but the Sacred Valley is not to be missed.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Chinchero Ruins, Church and Interpretation Center

Address: Interpretation Center, Calle Albergue 5, Chinchero, Peru
Hours: 0800 to 1730, daily. Market open daily 0700-1730.
Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.) Interpretation Center, 1000-1800.
Getting There: Collectivos go through Chinchero to Urubamba and Ollantaytambo. Ask driver to drop you in town, a short walk to ruins and church.

Moray

Hours: 0700 to 1800, daily
Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.) Interpretation Center, 1000-1800.

Maras

Hours: 0700 to 1800, daily
Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.) Interpretation Center, 1000-1800.

Ollantaytambo

Address: Ollantaytambo
Hours: 0700 to 1800, daily
Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.)

Pisac Archaeological Park

Address: Pisac Archaeological Park, Pisac, Cusco.
Hours: 0700 to 1730, daily
Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.)

Pisac Market

Hours: 0700-1700, daily. Sundays include additional vendors.
Admission: free

Tea For Two…or Twelve

What’s a girl to do when you have to work on Halloween?

Pack a costume and bring Halloween with you!

For the first time in my airline career, I was scheduled to work Halloween. Realizing that I was going to be in London and flying with many people that I knew, I decided to keep the trip. Two of my children are off at college and my youngest is past the trick’o’treating age, so I thought, “Why not? It could be fun to see what the Brits bring to the table!”

Informed that some of my colleagues were dressing up (with a theme), I was asked to join in and given three costume choices…Ariel, Rapunzel and Sleeping Beauty.

The theme…can you guess?

Yes, Disney Princesses!

Securing a long, blonde wig and a medieval costume, I was packed and ready to let down my hair, hit the tube and enjoy whatever came my way!

My group had purchased tickets on the B-Bakery’s London Tea Bus which was offering a special Halloween Tea Tour that evening.

As we set out from our hotel, we immediately attracted A LOT of attention! SO we were in London and there are actual royals living there, but, hey, it’s not every day that you run across twelve Disney princesses on the tube! I think even Prince Harry would’ve been impressed!

Collected from our designated pickup spot at Somerset House, we climbed to the top of the double decker Routemaster bus, admired the Halloween themed decorations and gazed hungrily at the two-tiered tray of pumpkin tarts, scones, mini cupcakes, sweet pastries, savories and macaroons. Everything was absolutely delicious, washed down with a complimentary glass of prosecco, a gin drink and tea, of course!

Not long after we had sat down to our meal, a loud banging started coming from a cabinet beside us. Not sure if we were having engine trouble, we all jumped as the door swung open and a zombie popped out! The zombie, JP, was to serve us our drinks and clear our plates. The most interesting part was that JP also brought us our dessert…BUGS! Our tea tour included Jimini’s mealworms as an added treat! And yes, they were very good!

So interesting was our teatime that we really had to remind ourselves that we were driving all over London and we needed to take a look out the window, every now and then, at the amazing landmarks…Big Ben, the London Eye, Buckingham Palace, St. Paul’s Cathedral and London Bridge!

All too soon our tour was over and we had to say goodbye to our red ride and JP!

Truly one of the most fascinating things I have done in London, I can’t wait to try it out again…who knows…maybe this month for the Christmas lights! Only this time I can pack a little lighter…a Santa hat should do!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

B Bakery’s London Tea Bus Tour

http://london.b-bakery.com/afternoon-tea/afternoon-tea-bus-tour/
Address: 6-7 Chandos Place, Covent Garden, London WC2N 4HU
Afternoon Tea Bus Tours, Pickup Locations and Prices: 12:30 and 15:00 tours depart from 8 Northumberland Avenue, off Trafalgar Square WC2N 5BY. 12:00, 14:30 & 17:00 tours depart daily from Victoria Coach Station. 45-60£ per person (about $60-$80USD)
Halloween Tea Bus Tours, Pickup Locations and Prices: October 28 until November 5, 2017, four tours daily, 1230, 1500, 1900 and 2130. Tours last approximately one and a half hours. 55£ per person (about $73USD)
Christmas Tea Bus Tours, Pickup Locations and Prices: November 17 until January 7, 2018, There are five daily departures for the Christmas Afternoon Tea Tour at 12:00, 12:30, 14:30, 15:00, 17:00 & 17:30 with the last two touring the Christmas lighted locations. 36-50£ per person (about $47-$66USD)

Sawa Sawa

As we drove out of Tarangire National Park, one thing repeated itself over and over in my head.

“Sawa Sawa”.

A year ago, I didn’t know what the Swahili phrase meant. Now, if I am completing something, I hear Fahad’s throaty voice asking, “Sawa Sawa?”

Whenever we were out in one of the parks and we were ready to move on, Fahad would always ask in Swahili, “Sawa Sawa?” Though technically translated to English, it means “equal”, it also is means, “fine”, “all good” and “no worries” and what Fahad was asking was if we were ready to go.

Though we were not ready to move on, it was time for our adventure to end and time to return to Arusha, Nairobi and then home.

Driving through the park, heading to the exit, in order to make our way back to Arusha, we looked out at the elephants and giraffes, the baobab trees and the amazing landscapes that we had admired over the past week.

I definitely was not going miss the bumpy roads or the tsetse flies, but I would miss the beauty of each day, the animals, the scrumptious cuisine, our quaint lodges, local beer, our new friends, Mathilda (our 4×4), and, of course, Fahad.

I was going to miss Tanzania.

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Light It Up!

Each year, around Christmastime, Amsterdam offers up beautiful lighted artwork throughout the city…

If you haven’t been to the Amsterdam Light Festival, mark your calendars for next year!

Having heard about and seen some of these lighted art installations near Central Station, I decided that I wanted to see what this festival was all about. Discovering that we would be there for its final night, we decided to purchase tickets for one of the boat tours which cruise along one of the routes.

Two routes are offered each year…this year’s routes, Watercolors, the boat route and Illuminade, the walking route. The artwork presented along these two routes during the two month time span is selected from groundbreaking submissions by light artists from 93 countries and displayed throughout the city’s canals and the city’s Plantage neighborhood.

Since we had been out walking most of the day, we decided that it would be nice to relax on one of the boat tours. Booking a five o’clock departure, we had hoped to be completed in order to have an early dinner. Starting out near the front of Central Station, we cruised along the front of the station and out into the IJ before circling back to our starting point. Finally, we headed into the canals and admired the beautiful pieces along the way.

Though we thoroughly enjoyed the tour, there are some things I would like to point out.

Doing a bit more research after my tour, I discovered that there are some companies that offer boats with open top. Although it may be a bit too cold for some, they do offer blankets and warm drinks. Our boat was packed to capacity and sometimes hard to get a photograph through the boat windows. We were, however, allowed to go out to the back of the boat and take photos in the open air.

Next year, I do think that I would book a different boat company, but also take advantage of the Illuminade route. Being able to take your time and enjoy each piece, up close, is surely worth the price of achy feet!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Amsterdam Light Festival

https://amsterdamlightfestival.com/en/
Hours: Amsterdam Light Festival Water colors route, December 1, 2016 until January 22, 2017, 1700-2300. Illuminade route, December 15, 2016 until January 8, 2017, 1700-2200. Refer to the website for Amsterdam’s Light Festival 2017-2018 schedule.
Many boat companies offer tours starting near Central Station and prices vary among the companies.

Who You Gonna Call?

BOO!

Don’t you just love to be scared…listening to horrifying tales of ghosts and spirits roaming the earth?

Years ago, I took a ghost tour in Dublin. We were ushered into a bus, transformed to have the appearance of a hearse. Our tour guide regaled us with ghost stories and took us to some of Dublin’s most haunted locations. It was great fun!

Our first night in Edinburgh, I noticed a large, double decker bus parked on the Royal Mile…The Ghostbus. Gathering information from the ghastly dressed gentlemen trying to entice willing “victims” to take the tour, my son and I decided that it might be something we would like to do during our stay. On our last night, we walked over to the starting point on the Waverly Bridge to purchase tickets.

Boarding the bus, we were seated on the upper level…after our tour guide decided to jump out from behind a curtain to give us a scare! The interior was created to look a bit like a cross between a funeral home and a hearse and was dimly lit.

Realizing a few minutes into our presentation, that our tour guide was more of a paid actor, we were a little confused as to what the tour would entail. Beginning our drive, he started with a tale of a ghost that purportedly resides on the street near Jenner’s Department store. Stating that we were looking for a woman, dressed in white on the street corner, I really expected that this was more of a show and we would actually see a ghostly apparition on the corner.

More tales ensued as he pointed out different buildings along the way that were allegedly haunted. Finally, our bus pulled to the curb and we disembarked at St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard.

Now, most people will be a little creeped out by being in a cemetery during the night and I must admit, it was a bit eerie. Our tour guide stood before us on the steps and revealed tales of grave robbers and murder. A couple of times, we did notice that he seemed to look off into the cemetery as he appeared to have seen or heard something…or maybe he was just a better actor than we thought! However, a couple of people within our group said that they kept hearing noises behind us. Again, because this seemed to be more of a production, I truly expected that there was some crazy surprise waiting behind a tomb.

Departing from the cemetery, we drove through the Grassmarket area and on near Greyfriar’s Kirk Cemetery. The tales continued.

Finally, we pulled into a narrow lane and the bus stopped…was something wrong? Engine trouble?

The tour guide/actor began the “finale” of the tour. He became “possessed” as a spirit “entered” the bus and entire vehicle began to shake while loud noises came over the speakers.

Oh? Okay.

Quite ready to be back in my hotel room watching “Most Haunted” on my television, we weren’t displeased when the bus parked along the curb on the Waverly Bridge to allow us to disembark.

While I enjoyed the historical aspect of the tour and the many haunted stories that accompanied it…we could have been spared the theatrics…unless they were serving drinks…then…maybe we would have appreciated it a little bit more.

My advice? Take the tour in Dublin!

For more pictures on my travels, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Ghostbus Tour

http://www.theghostbustours.com/edinburgh/
Departure Point: Waverly Bridge, near Princes Street Gardens, opposite Princes Mall exit of Waverly Station
Tours depart: Sunday-Thursday, 1800, 1930, Friday-Saturday, 1800, 1930, 2100
Admission: Adults, £16.00, Child £12.00, Student £14.00, Under 5, free (no seat), Family ticket (2 adults, 2 children, 5-15 years), £45.00
Getting There: By Train, Waverly Bridge train station, By Bus #s, 1, 4, 10, 11, 15, 16, 19, 25, 34, 101, 102, 104, 106, 113, 124 – Princes street, #100 – Waverly bridge

Making My Way In the Mekong Delta

The theme of this trip…rising with the sun.

Bright and early, I was on my tour bus and on the way to the Mekong delta. Although a long two hour journey, it was much more comfortable than the day before with a much lighter passenger load and a stop at the Mekong Rest Stop, a very picturesque place with restaurants and clean restrooms.

Arriving at the boarding point, we departed on our boat down the Mekong River. Dark and muddy, the waters swirled around our boat and the countless others traveling up and down the world’s twelfth longest river.

Before long, we were pulling up to the dilapidated dock at Unicorn Island. Venturing up the path to a pavilion at a local bee farm, we were shown some of the wooden bee hives and one of the wooden frames filled with bees and a honeycomb. Our tour guide invited each of us to hold the frame…which, of course, I did!

We were then invited to have a seat and enjoy tea, some of the honey and some tasty treats. After teatime was complete and we were exiting the pavilion, we were shown a cage, home to a boa constrictor. Not a native species, it was explained that the villagers keep the snake as a pet and to impress the tourists. The large snake was removed from its pen so that we could have a closer look. Feeling the snake’s skin, I was impressed with how smooth and cool to the touch it was and when my tour guide offered the snake to me, I decided to live in the moment and let him drape it around my neck, praying that it would not decide to strangle me! An exciting experience, I was extremely glad that I had allowed him to do so…where do you ever get the chance to have a boa constrictor around your neck?

Walking through a back street of Unicorn Island, crossing fruit sellers, clothes vendors and various craftsmen, we then found ourselves at another pavilion in My Tho town. Here, we were serenaded by local singers and musicians with traditional music, before setting out again.

Making our way down a palm-laden path, we found ourselves making our way down to another dock alongside a narrow canal on the Mekong Delta. Given conical hats to wear as we boarded sampans, we headed out into the shady waterways, sometimes making way for the many boats heading in the opposite direction down the same narrow canal. It was thrilling as we all jockeyed for space, but an amazing opportunity to get up-close and personal pictures of some of the villagers and their boats.

After reluctantly surrendering our hats, we were ushered off of the sampan onto another dock onto our original boat. Motoring down a much larger waterway, we soon pulled up to another area on Unicorn Island. A few small drops of rain were starting to fall as we make our way to the coconut candy factory where keo dua, was made. One of the most popular candies in Vietnam, the chewy candy is consumed in Vietnam and also exported to nearby countries such as Cambodia and Thailand. We were able to witness all phases of production. Simple and tasty, the candy is made from coconut and sometimes mixed with other fruits like durian or roasted peanuts.

Remembering that I purchased some of these candies last year while in Cambodia, I didn’t remember them fondly. The problem was that once I unwrapped the candy, there was a thin wrapping on the candy that I had a hard time getting completely off. Thinking that I wasn’t supposed to eat the thin wrapping, I decided that it was too complicated and I threw it out. Well, the one important thing that I learned at the candy factory was that the thin rice paper wrapping is to keep the outer paper from sticking to the candy…and it’s edible! Purchasing three packages, these were all eaten quickly once I was home, now knowing how to eat them!

The rain quickly subsided, leaving us in a cloud of humidity and we were escorted to horse drawn wagons. Splitting in to two groups, we jumped into the wagons and were driven through the small town to our next stopping point…lunch!

Our tour group and a few others were seated under a large pavilion and served elephant ear fish and many other fruits, vegetables and local dishes. The rain had returned and the air was thick and moist. After our lunch, we were invited to utilize the dozens of hammocks struck between the trees on the property or the bicycles available for our use. Deciding to walk around the property instead, I checked out the turtle ponds, the alligator pens and other caged animals.

Finally, we were gathered and boarded on our original boat. Pulling through the palm covered and bamboo lined canal, we soon merged into the Mekong river and made our way back to the main terminal. Reboarding our tour bus, we were soon on our way back to Ho Chi Minh City.

The Mekong Delta is a fascinating place. The people in each province make their livings from the land in various ways and each province is known for particular goods…Ben Tre, coconut candies, Vinh Long, conical leaf hats. There are also those who live a floating lifestyle, moving between their fields to fish or feed cattle during the season where the Mekong River rises to great heights.

During a future visit, I would definitely love to spend more time in this region. There are many trips that offer overnights at local Mekong hotels and with local families. Others offer overnights so that an early start can be had to visit to the floating markets, which are at their peak from 5 am to 8am. It is a region with much diversity and one that I highly recommend to anyone visiting south Vietnam.

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Mekong Delta Tours

There are many tours that can be booked through hotels, travel agencies and the internet. The tour company that I used was Luxury Tour Group, booked through my hotel and was approximately USD $16. Lunch was included (excluding drinks) and the small boat operators and performers expect to be tipped. A tip for the tour guide is not mandatory but very much appreciated if you enjoyed his services.

Wet Tunnel Rats

“Stinging rain…big old fat rain…rain that flew in sideways and sometimes rain that seemed to come straight up from underneath.” The words of Forrest Gump were with me in the jungles of the Cu Chi tunnels.

The Cu Chi tunnels were high on my list of attractions while in Ho Chi Minh City, so when I arrived at my hotel and was told that if I unpacked quickly, I could leave on a tour in a couple of hours, I did just that.

After running down the block to the Street Food Market for a quick bite to eat, I was picked up at my hotel and on my way. Being on a tour can be advantageous in that someone else takes care of the legwork, however, it can also have many disadvantages. Our bus was extremely full and there were many more people to pick up before setting out on the highway to the Cu Chi area for the hour and a half trip. In addition, the ride is prolonged as all tour buses make a stop at a lacquer village so that passengers can use the facilities and purchase beverages.

The Cu Chi tunnel system is a network of tunnels that was used as hiding places by the Vietnamese during their fight against the French. Later, during the American War, the Viet Cong expanded the tunnel system, which extends 150 miles and contains unlit offshoots, secret trap doors connecting narrow routes to hidden shelters, local rivers and tunnels reaching the Cambodian border. At one time, the tunnels contained improvised hospitals, living quarters, kitchens and fresh water wells. Soldiers were able to live for great lengths of time below ground, exiting to launch surprise attacks on their enemies.

Arriving at the Ben Dinh tunnels, we were escorted by our tour guide through the hot, dense jungle to the areas where there are many displays of entryways to the tunnels. The first and most popular area is the small square hole in the ground which is uncovered by removing a square top covered in leaves. Here, a guard demonstrated how a person would fit into the hole and then hide himself under the ground. Visitors are invited to try their hand at fitting into the small opening.

Other displays show the different types of traps that the Vietnamese had hidden throughout the jungles that would surprise and kill their enemies.

Finally, tourists are allowed to venture into the enlarged “tourist” tunnel to see what it was like for those who spent time there. Very dark and cramped, I could only imagine what it was like before it was expanded for the tourists and as quickly as we descended, we we were climbing up the metal stairway.

Making our way, in the slight drizzle that had begun to fall, to the souvenir pavilion, we discovered that it also provides a shooting range that visitors can pay an additional fee to shoot AK47s and M30s. The pavilion was hot, crowded and extremely noisy due to the gunfire. To top it off, a thunderstorm settled into the area providing more noise in the form of thunder.

The rain, now pouring heavily, made it difficult for us to traverse the jungle. So hot, wet and miserable, I was not enjoying the experience and could only think of the poor soldiers that were here during the war. Instead of my focus being on the things around me, I found myself wishing to be back on the dry bus and in Ho Chi Minh City. In addition, everyone had now donned rain slickers and with the amount of tourists in the area, it was impossible to recognize who was in our group, causing a handful of us to become separated from our guide.

Leaving the area, I was frustrated. Frustrated for the weather that could not be helped, and frustrated that I had jumped right into this tour without a bit of research. If I had the chance to visit these tunnels again on another occasion, I do think that I would make it a wholly different experience. First, I would not book a tour, instead, hiring a taxi to take me to the area or taking the local bus. The other most important thing would be to leave early in the morning to be there for the opening time when there are fewer tourists, the day is not so hot and the jungle is brighter. Besides the crowding throughout the sight, the biggest disappointment with was the lighting. Because we arrived so late in the day, the dense jungle was quite dark causing it to be difficult to get any decent pictures.

Wet and tired, we finally boarded our bus for the long trip back through afternoon traffic to Ho Chi Minh City. Although I was happy to have fit in the tour on such short notice, I think that a bit more planning might have benefited my experience. After such a long afternoon, I was happy to have had the opportunity to visit, however, trying it a different way will definitely be in the cards for me on a future visit.

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Cu Chi Tunnels

http://diadaocuchi.com.vn/
Address: Ấp Phú Hiệp, Phú Hiệp, Phú Mỹ Hưng, Củ Chi, Hồ Chí Minh 733800, Vietnam
Admission: 110,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $5.50)
Hours: 0730-1600, daily
Getting There: The tunnels can be visited on a half-day tour, which can be booked online or through hotels in the city. Taxis can be arranged and a bus from Ben Thanh bus station stops in Cu Chi where public transport services the site.

In Case of Attack…

During the Cold War, the threat of a nuclear attack was very real for all living in Czechoslovakia.

Czech citizens were constantly brainwashed to hate everything from the west. Children were taught in schools and adults at work to be constantly prepared to evacuate in the event of a nuclear attack and how to handle the effects of an attack. Suitcases were packed with the essentials needed to survive in the bunkers…radios, batteries, food.

The bunkers were not designed for comfort, but merely a means to keep people alive for a couple of weeks until plans could be made to evacuate the people to the countryside.

During one of my “offbeat things to do” searches for Prague, I came across the Nuclear Bunker tour. Tour times are offered twice a day…once in the morning, which did not quite work with our arrival time, while on layovers. The other tour, at 2:30, meant that I could maybe get a half hour of sleep before heading down to the tour office to sign up, but after flying all night, somehow I never made it. So, finding myself with extra time in Prague while visiting with my son, I decided that it was now or never.

The tour office, located in the Art Passage, just past the U Prince hotel, is a small cubicle next to the Money Exchange office on the left hand side of the passage, a few feet after stepping inside. Finding it closed for lunch from 1:00 until 2:00, we walked out to the Old Town square to watch the Astronomical Clock perform its two o’clock show before returning to purchase our tickets. Seemingly, an extremely popular tour, we were amazed with the amount of people who purchased their tickets after us and began their wait for the tour to begin.

Beginning as a walking tour, we departed Old Town and encountered many places that played a role in the Cold War era, including the Secret Police headquarters and Wenceslas square. It was in Wenceslas Square that Jan Palach, a student of history and political economy at Charles University in Prague, set himself on fire on January 16, 1969 to protest the invasion of the Soviet Union. A very inconspicuous monument in front of the National Museum marks the place of his death.

Other places of interest, such as the Reduta Jazz Club, which attempted to promote Jazz at the time when this genre was condemned by the Communist regime, and artwork by Czech artist David Cerny were pointed out, including “Hanging Out” a Colonel Sanders-sequel figure that dangles suicidally from a rooftop near Old Town, the giant babies that climb the Zizkov TV Tower and the Franz Kafka Rotating 42-Layer Head.

While most of these places and points of interest can be visited on your own, the most riveting parts of the walking tour were the stories that our tour guide Katarina told us of her family’s experiences with communism. The Melantrich Balcony, near Wenceslas Square, served as a tribune for speakers to the masses of protesters in 1989 during the Velvet Revolution. Although just a young child, she accompanied her parents to this site to hear Vaclav Havel address protesters at the beginning of the fall of communism.

After our visit to Wenceslas Square, we boarded tram number 9 (included in the tour price) for the final part of our tour. A few stops later we were making our way down to the Nuclear Bunker.

Climbing down the four story spiral staircase, one can only imagine the panic and chaos you would encounter in the event of an actual nuclear attack. Stale, musty air greets your nostrils and not much else. Designed to give each person one meter of space, it is a stark and cramped area, although interesting to note, this particular bunker has been used as a club venue in recent years.

Walking down the corridor, past a storage area, we then made our way through the bathroom facilities and into the medical area. This location offers museum-like displays depicting the area’s usage. The next corridor offered a wide array of gas masks, many pictures from protests and other interesting protective suits designed for children.

Passing thru the next doorway into the small vestibule, an exhibit for a communications office is presented in an adjacent room and a depiction of the decontamination area. A weird mannequin wearing a Santa hat and called “Santa” guards the door. Walking further, you are confronted with strange displays of children wearing gas masks and carrying guns and dolls. Crates of ammunition (hopefully disabled) line the walls.

Finally, the fun part. A large assortment of coats, hats, gas masks and guns are available for visitors to try on and take pictures with alongside gas-mask wearing mannequins and a large Russian flag. Just don’t push the BIG RED button!

After making your way back through the many corridors, you climb the spiral stairway once again. Upon exiting the heavy steel doorway, you can take a deep breath of fresh air and gaze upon a still intact civilization.

A small local bar occupies the area outside of the bunker. In the event of being a little unnerved during your time so far down inside the earth, a cold beer can help to take the edge off!

A short walk takes everyone back to the tram and to Wenceslas Square where your tour guide leaves you to make your way back to your hotel or to your next destination!

In such a beautiful city, with photo opportunities everywhere you look, it’s hard to imagine the city’s dark past. Unless you are privy to the specific locations, one would never know that there are countless bunkers (in addition to the deep metro stations) that still lie in wait in the event of a nuclear attack. Definitely one of the most unique tours I have ever taken, visiting the Nuclear Bunker was most definitely a highlight of all my visits to this amazing city.

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Communism and Nuclear Bunker Tour

http://www.prague-communism-tour.com/#_=_
Address: Malé Námêstí, 459/11, Praha 1, 110 00
Tour Times: 1030 and 1400, daily, except December 24 and 25
Tour Price: Adults, 600 CZK (about $25), Students, 500 CZK (about $21)

Venture to the Valley of Fire

Having just experienced Hoover Dam by air, my expectations were high as I aimed to set my kayak into the Colorado River’s waters and paddle on from the base of this mighty levee.

Last year, while in Las Vegas, tired of the crowds, I decided that it would be refreshing to get out of the city and experience some of the outdoor activities located nearby. Deciding to book a kayaking tour on the Colorado, I opted for a 12 mile paddle starting at the base of Hoover Dam. Two hours too late, I was unable to do so as permits need to be secured for this particular tour at least 24 hours in advance. Agreeing to take the 6 mile paddle that departed later in the day was a good substitution and I thoroughly enjoyed my trip. All year, however, I contemplated what I missed, promising myself…next year!

This year, immediately after my arrival, my reservation was made to kayak on my last full day in Las Vegas. Instead of a confirmation email, however, a phone call informed me that I was the only person booked for that day. Needless to say, the tour would not go out with only one person, however, the guides were optimistic that they could hold out and certainly get more bookings before the permit deadline. Unfortunately, it was not meant to be and I was moved to the 6 mile paddle once again. Anxious to get out of the city, I reluctantly agreed.

Early that morning, I was packed and ready to go on my day’s journey.

Water shoes…check. Sunscreen…check. Sunglasses…check. Camera…check.

All that was needed was the tour company’s van, curbside, so we could be on our way. Van after van, came by until finally I noticed the one for me. Jumping in, I made myself comfortable and said hello to the others. The driver started up the van but then shifted back into park, informing us that she needed to call her boss. A few minutes passed and I was startled by the opening of the van’s door next to me.

“I’ve been informed that the bridge we need to cross has been closed down since six o’clock this morning. The police are trying to talk a jumper down. The traffic is backed up so severely that we will never make it in time. I’m so sorry, but the tour is cancelled for today.”

Okay, I was still half asleep…but…what did she say???

Slowly, I made my way back upstairs to my room. Now what? I usually always have a plan B, C and D in place…but not today.

Rifling through the Las Vegas magazine I found a few ideas. Las Vegas Eye? Too expensive. Titanic Exhibition? No pictures allowed. Making a few phone calls got me nowhere as most things were booked for the day. Suddenly it dawned on me…a rental car! I would be free to do whatever I could find…on or off the Strip. Quickly, I ran downstairs and secured one of the last cars available…a compact Nissan Versa.

But where was I going?

Turning out of the parking garage, I drove out toward the highway, not exactly sure where I was headed. In and Out Burger for an early lunch? Freemont Street? Lake Mead?

On two previous occasions, I had visited the Valley of Fire, Nevada’s oldest state park, located about an hour outside of Las Vegas. Both times, accompanied by numerous individuals, I was not able to see it the way that I wanted to. This time could be different. No little people telling me, “We’re tired of looking at rocks!” No business associates saying, “Let’s skip that part and just say we saw it”. Yes…it could be different seeing it my way…

An hour later, I was driving into the Valley of Fire State Park, handing over my $10 entry fee and trying to decipher the park map. Absolutely, lots to see and do!

Driving into the park, the beautifully eroded sandstone formations grew more and more plentiful as my journey progressed. Finally, the first few stops on the map grew near, the Beehives, Atlatl Rock, Arch Rock and the Petrified Logs. Each of these attractions beautiful and unique, I stopped, exited my car, snapping lots of pictures, even taking the short hike out to the petrified logs, (though the extreme temperature made me realize that I was going to need much more water).

Next, a stop to the Visitor’s Center was in order. The perfect place to cool off and replenish your water supply, exhibits on the geology, ecology, prehistory and history of the Valley of Fire are also presented. A small gift shop also offers snacks, postcards and souvenirs.

The next part of my drive, took me north to what is considered the most scenic part of the park. Time after time, I pulled over to the shoulder to take picture after picture. Truly, it is a place of unbelievable beauty.

My first stop on the northern road was a 1/2 mile trail, called Mouse Tank that I have hiked in the past. The first time we ventured out on this route, we were a bit unprepared, wearing sandals and not carrying water. A few years ago, we attempted it again with my children, so I was a bit familiar with it and thought that I could tackle it solo, even with the 113 degree temperatures.

The trail is extremely sandy, making it quite hard to walk at times and it filled my tennis shoes. Trying to stay on the rocky areas that line the trail, I made my way through the canyon marveling at the petroglyphs that mark the red walls and occasionally ducking into the rare areas of shade. A short time later, I reached the end of the trail and what gives it its name…the Mouse Tank, an area in the rocks which collects water and amazingly does not evaporate. Legend has it that a renegade Indian named Mouse hid out in this canyon and this water supply helped him in his survival.

Exiting the Mouse Tank trail, I sat in my car turning the air conditioning on high, drinking lots of water and resting for a minute before continuing on my way.

The next two stops were Rainbow Vista and Fire Canyon/Silica Dome. Both stops offer colorful panoramas and amazing photo opportunities. Continuing on my way to the end of the line, I finally reached the White Domes. Though not up for another hike, this would be one that I would consider in the future. This one-mile hike offer brilliant contrasting colors, sweeping desert vistas and caves and has been the location of many movies. While I was there, a photo shoot was in progress and I felt sorry for the models, trying to pose beautifully while sweating profusely!

Making my way back to the main road, I turned and headed toward the East Entrance/Exit. The seven tall, eroded boulders called The Seven Sisters was my next stop followed by the Cabins. These picturesque and historic sandstone structures were built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930’s for travelers. No overnight stays are allowed with the area now serving as a popular picnic area.

The Clark Memorial, the last point of interest on the map, is a simple white cross situated on a white brick base, sitting alone in the desert and visible from the main road. It pays tribute to John J. Clark, a Civil War veteran. Honorably discharged, he was enroute to Salt Lake City, traveling in a buckboard when he stopped in the Valley of Fire. Not finding water, he crawled under his carriage and died, presumably from thirst, before his body was found in 1915.

One last hike can be made from the East Entrance/Exit point, called Elephant Rock; however, I decided that it could wait until another visit. Although it was later in the day, many people were making their way into the park and I would imagine that cooler temperatures and a setting sun offer a much different experience that what can be offered during the midpoint of the day.

However, sunset still being sometime away, I decided that I wasn’t very far from Hoover Dam…

To be continued…

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Valley of Fire

http://www.valley-of-fire.com/
29450 Valley of Fire Road, Overton, Nevada 89040
Hours: Open year round from dawn to dusk
Admission: Entrance $10/vehicle ($8/vehicle Nevada resident) at fee station or self-pay booth. Camping $20/night plus $10/night for utility hook-ups ($2/night discount Nevada resident). Annual Entrance Permit $75.
Visitors Center: Open 0830-1630 daily, except Christmas.
Getting There: Located about 58 miles from the Las Vegas Strip in the Mojave Desert. From the Las Vegas Strip: Take the I-15 North approximately 35-40 miles. Take Exit 75 and head east toward Valley of Fire/Lake Mead. Drive approximately 17 miles on Valley of Fire to the West Entrance Station. Scenic Route along Lake Mead: Take the I-15 North to Lake Mead Blvd. Turn Right and head East to Lakeshore Road (NV-166). Turn Right onto Northshore Drive (NV-167) and follow Northshore to the east entrance to Valley of Fire.