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Having just experienced Hoover Dam by air, my expectations were high as I aimed to set my kayak into the Colorado River’s waters and paddle on from the base of this mighty levee.
Last year, while in Las Vegas, tired of the crowds, I decided that it would be refreshing to get out of the city and experience some of the outdoor activities located nearby. Deciding to book a kayaking tour on the Colorado, I opted for a 12 mile paddle starting at the base of Hoover Dam. Two hours too late, I was unable to do so as permits need to be secured for this particular tour at least 24 hours in advance. Agreeing to take the 6 mile paddle that departed later in the day was a good substitution and I thoroughly enjoyed my trip. All year, however, I contemplated what I missed, promising myself…next year!
This year, immediately after my arrival, my reservation was made to kayak on my last full day in Las Vegas. Instead of a confirmation email, however, a phone call informed me that I was the only person booked for that day. Needless to say, the tour would not go out with only one person, however, the guides were optimistic that they could hold out and certainly get more bookings before the permit deadline. Unfortunately, it was not meant to be and I was moved to the 6 mile paddle once again. Anxious to get out of the city, I reluctantly agreed.
Early that morning, I was packed and ready to go on my day’s journey.
Water shoes…check. Sunscreen…check. Sunglasses…check. Camera…check.
All that was needed was the tour company’s van, curbside, so we could be on our way. Van after van, came by until finally I noticed the one for me. Jumping in, I made myself comfortable and said hello to the others. The driver started up the van but then shifted back into park, informing us that she needed to call her boss. A few minutes passed and I was startled by the opening of the van’s door next to me.
“I’ve been informed that the bridge we need to cross has been closed down since six o’clock this morning. The police are trying to talk a jumper down. The traffic is backed up so severely that we will never make it in time. I’m so sorry, but the tour is cancelled for today.”
Okay, I was still half asleep…but…what did she say???
Slowly, I made my way back upstairs to my room. Now what? I usually always have a plan B, C and D in place…but not today.
Rifling through the Las Vegas magazine I found a few ideas. Las Vegas Eye? Too expensive. Titanic Exhibition? No pictures allowed. Making a few phone calls got me nowhere as most things were booked for the day. Suddenly it dawned on me…a rental car! I would be free to do whatever I could find…on or off the Strip. Quickly, I ran downstairs and secured one of the last cars available…a compact Nissan Versa.
But where was I going?
Turning out of the parking garage, I drove out toward the highway, not exactly sure where I was headed. In and Out Burger for an early lunch? Freemont Street? Lake Mead?
On two previous occasions, I had visited the Valley of Fire, Nevada’s oldest state park, located about an hour outside of Las Vegas. Both times, accompanied by numerous individuals, I was not able to see it the way that I wanted to. This time could be different. No little people telling me, “We’re tired of looking at rocks!” No business associates saying, “Let’s skip that part and just say we saw it”. Yes…it could be different seeing it my way…
An hour later, I was driving into the Valley of Fire State Park, handing over my $10 entry fee and trying to decipher the park map. Absolutely, lots to see and do!
Driving into the park, the beautifully eroded sandstone formations grew more and more plentiful as my journey progressed. Finally, the first few stops on the map grew near, the Beehives, Atlatl Rock, Arch Rock and the Petrified Logs. Each of these attractions beautiful and unique, I stopped, exited my car, snapping lots of pictures, even taking the short hike out to the petrified logs, (though the extreme temperature made me realize that I was going to need much more water).
Next, a stop to the Visitor’s Center was in order. The perfect place to cool off and replenish your water supply, exhibits on the geology, ecology, prehistory and history of the Valley of Fire are also presented. A small gift shop also offers snacks, postcards and souvenirs.
The next part of my drive, took me north to what is considered the most scenic part of the park. Time after time, I pulled over to the shoulder to take picture after picture. Truly, it is a place of unbelievable beauty.
My first stop on the northern road was a 1/2 mile trail, called Mouse Tank that I have hiked in the past. The first time we ventured out on this route, we were a bit unprepared, wearing sandals and not carrying water. A few years ago, we attempted it again with my children, so I was a bit familiar with it and thought that I could tackle it solo, even with the 113 degree temperatures.
The trail is extremely sandy, making it quite hard to walk at times and it filled my tennis shoes. Trying to stay on the rocky areas that line the trail, I made my way through the canyon marveling at the petroglyphs that mark the red walls and occasionally ducking into the rare areas of shade. A short time later, I reached the end of the trail and what gives it its name…the Mouse Tank, an area in the rocks which collects water and amazingly does not evaporate. Legend has it that a renegade Indian named Mouse hid out in this canyon and this water supply helped him in his survival.
Exiting the Mouse Tank trail, I sat in my car turning the air conditioning on high, drinking lots of water and resting for a minute before continuing on my way.
The next two stops were Rainbow Vista and Fire Canyon/Silica Dome. Both stops offer colorful panoramas and amazing photo opportunities. Continuing on my way to the end of the line, I finally reached the White Domes. Though not up for another hike, this would be one that I would consider in the future. This one-mile hike offer brilliant contrasting colors, sweeping desert vistas and caves and has been the location of many movies. While I was there, a photo shoot was in progress and I felt sorry for the models, trying to pose beautifully while sweating profusely!
Making my way back to the main road, I turned and headed toward the East Entrance/Exit. The seven tall, eroded boulders called The Seven Sisters was my next stop followed by the Cabins. These picturesque and historic sandstone structures were built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930’s for travelers. No overnight stays are allowed with the area now serving as a popular picnic area.
The Clark Memorial, the last point of interest on the map, is a simple white cross situated on a white brick base, sitting alone in the desert and visible from the main road. It pays tribute to John J. Clark, a Civil War veteran. Honorably discharged, he was enroute to Salt Lake City, traveling in a buckboard when he stopped in the Valley of Fire. Not finding water, he crawled under his carriage and died, presumably from thirst, before his body was found in 1915.
One last hike can be made from the East Entrance/Exit point, called Elephant Rock; however, I decided that it could wait until another visit. Although it was later in the day, many people were making their way into the park and I would imagine that cooler temperatures and a setting sun offer a much different experience that what can be offered during the midpoint of the day.
However, sunset still being sometime away, I decided that I wasn’t very far from Hoover Dam…
To be continued…
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Valley of Fire
- http://www.valley-of-fire.com/
- 29450 Valley of Fire Road, Overton, Nevada 89040
- Hours: Open year round from dawn to dusk
- Admission: Entrance $10/vehicle ($8/vehicle Nevada resident) at fee station or self-pay booth. Camping $20/night plus $10/night for utility hook-ups ($2/night discount Nevada resident). Annual Entrance Permit $75.
- Visitors Center: Open 0830-1630 daily, except Christmas.
- Getting There: Located about 58 miles from the Las Vegas Strip in the Mojave Desert. From the Las Vegas Strip: Take the I-15 North approximately 35-40 miles. Take Exit 75 and head east toward Valley of Fire/Lake Mead. Drive approximately 17 miles on Valley of Fire to the West Entrance Station. Scenic Route along Lake Mead: Take the I-15 North to Lake Mead Blvd. Turn Right and head East to Lakeshore Road (NV-166). Turn Right onto Northshore Drive (NV-167) and follow Northshore to the east entrance to Valley of Fire.
An hour’s drive later, I soon came to the checkpoint for Hoover Dam. After passing through the secured area, I proceeded to the dam parking lot, located nearest the visitor’s center.
Walking along the top of the dam, I crossed over to the Arizona side (neglecting to change my watch!) and back again, stopping to photograph both the Colorado River side as well as Lake Mead. Looking up to the arched Mike O’Callaghan–Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge, which crosses the Colorado River, I could see people standing and walking along the bridge. Realizing that the parking lot I had passed on the way to the dam, contained a trail up the the bridge, I decided to head that way.
Parking in the lot, near the winding concrete walkway, I joined the hoards of tourists heading to the top of pathway. Heading to the middle of the bridge for the best view, I captured some photos amidst the windy conditions and then made my way back to solid ground. Not normally afraid of heights, I must admit, the dizzying height of the structure, made me a little nervous.
