©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.
There was a time when I used to spend multiple days in Senegal.
Having so much time to explore, we saw a great deal of not only the city of Dakar but of the neighboring areas.
One morning, after having been up for most of the night, enjoying a few (or maybe more) cocktails, we convened in the lobby of our hotel for a day’s adventure. Though my eyes may have been a little red and my head throbbing somewhat, I made it downstairs in time to greet our tour guide for the day.
It had always been my desire to go on an African safari. I longed to roam an African nation in an open top vehicle on the search for the Big Five while shooting frame after frame with my telephoto lens. So, when my friend suggested we go to the Bandia Reserve for a “mini safari” experience, I was eager to join her, however, hearing the words, “reserve”, I must admit, I didn’t have many expectations. What I envisioned was more like a zoo.
But as our tour guide, Mass, arrived and herded us into his van, his excitement for the place he was taking us was a bit contagious. After a quick nap in the rear seat, I woke to spectacular sights during the long drive…colorful villages, Senegalese women balancing things on their heads, gaudy buses emblazoned with kooky paint jobs, men driving horse-drawn carts, huge baobab trees.
Though I was still a bit skeptical, the way Mass had described this place…3500 hectacres of grand nature…had me curious as to what we would find.
As we drove around the park, I was amazed. Although I knew this was extremely different from what I would find in say, Tanzania, Kenya or South Africa, I was impressed, especially when we came upon a large group of giraffes lounging in the road, blocking our way.
Fast forward to 2017, for my 50th birthday and 25th wedding anniversary, my husband and I finally went on safari in Tanzania. While vast acres of wilderness spread out before us in the Serengeti, Ngorogoro Crater and Tarangire National Park, my memories of the Bandia Reserve were not so different, except that we didn’t have as much expanse to drive around and that we never found the elusive rhinos that reside in Bandia.
Coming back to Dakar after being off for a year due to Covid, I was excited to see, once again, the city that holds such a dear place in my heart. I was even more excited to learn that a good friend would be flying with me and we, both avid photographers, made plans to go to revisit the Bandia Reserve.
I had made arrangements for Mass to drive us to Bandia Reserve and two other members of our work group decided to join us. After a long night of no sleep, (this time due to work…no cocktails!), we all dozed during the long drive, reminiscent of my first expedition. However, I was awake long enough to enjoy the colorful sights!
As we pulled into the park and exited our vehicle, the first thing I noticed was a gigantic baobab tree (sacred to the Senegalese) and a few monkeys scampering around its base. Mesmerized by these small apes and their antics, we were unaware that our vehicle was ready to be loaded and we had to be collected by Mass as our safari driver was ready to take us through the park.
Heading out on the bumpy, dirt roads, we passed through the part of the park that houses the giant tortoises and the hyenas. The hyenas have a place of “honor” behind a tall, secure chain link gate and are the only carnivores within the park. As you can imagine, since the park is secured by towering barricades at its borders, the other residents would be sitting ducks for these fierce, doglike creatures during their comestible pursuits.
Continuing into the wild, it wasn’t long before we had our first encounter. A group of giraffes were enjoying the shade of a robust baobab tree and the nearby thicket. One stood warily as we approached, seemingly ready to defend its turf if we ventured too close while others merely ignored our presence. A short drive away, we encountered a group of three young males eager to show their prowess by fighting each other by using their necks.
As we made our way down each of the dusty roads, we encountered, ostriches, giant eland, oryx, antelope, waterbuck, western Buffon’s cob, greater kudu, nyalas, impalas, gazelles, warthogs, buffalo, more monkeys, more giraffe and many species of bird.
Not long after an encounter with a pair of zebras, we were driving along and noticed another jeep parked down a narrow lane. Our driver quickly turned and approached slowly. What had eluded us on my first visit was sitting lazily under the tree in front of us…the park’s two rhinos! Resting in the shade, these magnificent creatures, used to being gawked at by visitors, merely looked over at us through heavily lidded eyes with much disinterest. Finally, one stood and took a few steps toward our vehicle, giving us more photographic opportunities and the impression that maybe we had worn out our welcome.
Backing slowly, we retreated the way we had come in search of more adventure in Bandia.
A short time later, after countless sighting of smaller animals and more giraffe, we came to another giant baobab tree and a sign, Tombeau de Griots (the Tomb of the Griots). This tree is one of the last baobab trees that house griot remains. The griots are considered masters of knowledge and keepers of historical records across generations. They include singers, poets, instrumentalists, musicians and storytellers who maintain a tradition of oral history in parts of West Africa. Because the baobabs are considered sacred and represent longevity and knowledge, they were chosen to be the appropriate place to store the remains of the griots.
I had remembered this place from my first visit and as I jumped out of the jeep and peered into the opening at the base of the baobab tree, I once again saw the skulls of the griots. They are protected by a metal screen so that the bones cannot be disturbed. Although these remains have been allowed to stay inside of this particular baobab tree due to it being on private property, since 1962, the burial of griots in baobabs has been banned due to the health risks of the decomposition of bodies.
After a couple of photos with my travel mates, we jumped back into our safari jeep and headed back to the front of the reserve. Inside the restaurant, we took a look at the crocodiles in the lake and skirted the monkeys looking for a handout from the diners.
It had already been a long day, but Mass decided that it was not over. Though we toyed with the idea of dining at the reserve, our guide promised us that he had a much better place. A short drive took us to the beachfront in Saly for some fresh seafood and picturesque views.
Once again, Senegal did not disappoint. Nature at its finest…on all fronts!
If you are visiting Dakar, make sure to book a trip to the Bandia Reserve, one of Senegal’s highlights. Also, right across the street is the Lion Ranch…your opportunity to see the big cats of Senegal. Definitely on my to-do list!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Bandia Reserve
- http://reservedebandia.com/home.html
- Address: N 2 Route de Mbour, Saly, SN
- Hours: 0800-1800, daily
- Admission: Payments can be made in FCFA, Euros or by credit card. Adults, 12,000 FCFA or 18.50€, Children under 12 years, 7,000 FCFA or 10.50€. Use outside vehicle (personal, taxi, car), 10,000 FCFA or 15€, Safari truck rental with up to 11 seats, 40,000 FCFA or 61€, Safari truck rental up to 24 seats, 60,000 FCFA or 91€, Guide (compulsory)per vehicle, 6.500 FCFA or 10€.
- Getting There: Coming from Dakar by motorway, take the Sindia/Popeguine exit number 14 to Sindia in 2 km, then take a right on the National Road (N1) Dakar-Mbour for 3,3 km, turn left at the signposts, continue the track in laterite for 800m. Coming from Saly, you will have 15 km to travel and 18 km from Mbour.
Motherland Experience Travel Tours
- http://themotherlandexperiencetraveltours.com
- Telephone: +221 77 295 24 24
- Email: Kanemass@hotmail.com
- Owner: Mass Kane
Years ago, I visited Parque Güell and wandered around for hours without paying to enter. Perusing the website, I noticed that admission was now being charged, seemingly to limit the large number of visitors to the park at one time. Purchasing a timed admission, I jumped on the bus and headed toward the park.
Quickly making my way to the Monumental Zone area, I was able to enter on the terrace level, however, due to construction, the famous mosaic bench was partially closed. Still, elbowing my way through the crowded area, I was able to sit for a few minutes and enjoy the beautiful architectural element. The stairway with the Gaudí dragon fountain was also filled with visitors, each hoping to capture a picture with the iconic piece of sculpture. The two buildings flanking the entrance, each with unusual pinnacles and fantastically shaped roofs give the impression of gingerbread houses and one offers a permanent exhibition of the Barcelona City History Museum which focuses on the building itself, the park and the city.
Parque Güell is truly a place of tranquility, yet, fascination. As you walk through the lush gardens, you can almost imagine yourself to be in a fantastical dream. Take your time to enjoy each area of the park and if you see one of the many musical performers that spend time entertaining visitors, stop and relish in their music. The acoustics in some of the spaces are amazing! Also, don’t forget to make your way to the park’s highest point, marked with a large cross, for a phenomenal view of the city with both the Sagrada Familia and the Montjuic area visible in the distance. Lastly, make sure to keep your eyes open for the amazing wildlife that makes the park their home. Scour the trees for a variety of birds, most notably, non-native parrots and short-toed eagles, that reside in the area.
As we made our way through the congested streets, we finally found our way to the Third Mainland Bridge which connects the mainland to Lagos Island. Our driver slowed so that we could get a glimpse of the Makoko floating fishing village on the right. Definitely not a place tourists would venture, it looks serene with its brightly colored buildings and fishing boats bobbing in the gentle surf.
Our first stop was the Yellow Chille, a local restaurant highly recommended to us for its legendary Seafood Okra Soup. While I didn’t sample their spicy, fare my companions said it was delicious. The service was slow, however, and we had to push them to get a bill that was very different from our calculation of the prices in the menu. Ever hear, “TIA”? Yes, “this is Africa”. Sometimes, sadly, this is what you get.
A quick drive down the highway led us to the Lekki Conservation Center. Despite my research on the Lagos area, I somehow had not stumbled upon this property, however, one of my companions knew of it and our driver enthusiastically agreed that we should visit.
After admiring a couple of monkeys begging for a handout, we paid our admission and joined a group that began to traverse the boardwalk leading into the trees. Our guide pointed out items of interest and described the many reptiles and mammals that reside in this protected area. Monkeys swung through the trees and followed us on the walkways, hoping to steal a treat or something else they deemed of value from the trespassers in their swamp.
After our descent, we continued through the park stopping for a rest in the picnic area, enjoying fresh coconut water while seated in one of the thatched roof huts. Checking the time, we realized that we would have to get back on the road to try and beat the traffic back to our hotel. Heading back into the swamp, we made our way along the boardwalk with a quick stop to climb the park’s treehouse.
So, did I feel like I got to see what Lagos had to offer?
Paying the admission, I joined my tour guide, Jason, as we made our way to the front of the property where all of the people were standing and pointing. High in the treetops, was a mother sloth holding her baby against her. Jason explained that this mother usually remains in that area, however, a couple of days before, she had made her way, with her baby, to the front of the property near the hut, to urinate and defecate (the only reason they leave the trees, once a week). Needless to say everyone present was quite excited!
Using the spotting scope that Jason had brought along, we watched the mother as she moved languidly, eating the leaves in her proximity.
Though the area was quite limited, I learned that there were many other things to discover within that small thicket. I really enjoyed finding both blue jeans poison dart frogs and a red-eyed tree frog, however, we were especially careful as fer de lance vipers are constantly spotted in the area. My favorite thing though, was a plant that appears to die when you touch it…the Mimosa Pudica is also known as the Sensitive Plant, Touch-Me-Not, Tickle Me Plant, Shame Plant or Humble Plant. A creeping annual or perennial flowering plant of the pea/legume family, it usually grows in shady areas under trees or shrubs. Found in Central and South America, in some Asian countries, and in the southern part of the United States, its compound leaves fold inward and droop when touched or shaken, defending itself from harm. Its leaves open a few minutes later.
Our first impression of Tarangire was a hot and sweaty one. Much more arid and dry than the other two parks, it was also sweltering and teeming with tsetse flies. The blue and black flags were present throughout the park and although they didn’t cause me much anguish, my travel mates suffered their piercing bites.
Throughout the park, male ostriches danced along, bobbing their bright pink necks with females remaining aloof. At one point, while driving along, we noticed what appeared to be a male ostrich resting in the grass. Waiting for it to rise, we soon noticed that it was not alone. Not only had we been fortunate to spy the mating ritual of lions while at Ngorongoro, but now, we were able to witness that of the ostrich!
