safari – Snapping The Globe

The Lions Next Door

Having been on safari in Tanzania, I knew that the Bandia Reserve in Senegal, had its shortcomings.

While I absolutely loved visiting and had done so three times, there was the glaring fact that it was missing some of the animals that captivate thrill seekers…the big cats. Because it is a private reserve comprising just over 8600 acres and is surrounded by fencing, the animals that do reside there…giraffes, deer, ostrich…would be sitting ducks. There are a few hyenas that reside in the front of the park, however, they are in their own enclosure and not free to roam.

On my last visit to Bandia Reserve, I did learn something…Ranch de Bandia, a lodge which offers lion experiences, had opened recently adjacent to the reserve. Offering up close interactions with lions, it was meant to fill the gap where The Bandia Reserve was lacking while still offering a Safari experience with big cats and a place for visitors to call home while surrounded by African wildlife.

Located only 70 kilometers from Dakar (45 minutes), it is an easy drive from the city and also located near the resort town of Saly, a popular tourist destination. Since we were staying near the downtown area, we decided to do both activities (Bandia Reserve and Ranch de Bandia) in order to make the most of our time and the drive.

Arriving in the late morning to Bandia, we quickly realized that early arrivals and late afternoons are probably best for animal spotting. The midday hour is when most animals are inactive due to the heat and it was on this trip when I saw the least amount of wildlife. We still managed to see enough to make our trip worthwhile, however, the park’s rhinos remained elusive on this trip.

*Hyenas in their enclosure at the front of the park*

*Many kinds of deer and elk reside in the park*

After our safari at Bandia was complete, we headed back thru the entrance gates and over to Ranch de Bandia, across the highway.

Preparations had already been made by our tour guide, Mass Kane, so we were all set to take off on our 30 minutes of exploration into the lions’ territory.

Loading up into the park’s specially equipped vehicles, we noticed pieces of meat still sitting on top of the truck’s iron mesh that enclosed it. Flies were everywhere, attracted by the smell and the bloody mess, but if this was the way to attract the lions, we had to get used to it.

Entering the gates of the enclosure, we could hear the roars of an angry cat in the distance; Malik, a territorial lion protesting our arrival. Moving through the second set of gates, the sound of his roars became much louder and as we turned onto a small roadway, we spotted him behind a bush in a clearing. Realizing that he would soon partake of a meal, he came forward, jumping onto the hood of our vehicle and then climbing onto the roof. It was an amazing experience to have such ferocious, yet beautiful creature that close to us. As he shifted closer to the back of the truck above where I was seated, I could smell his musky scent and feel the mud from his paws falling down into my hair. All in the experience, right? I was definitely going to need a shower when I got home!

Moving back to the front of the truck, he interacted with the driver and guide who, through an opening in the front mesh, doled out his afternoon snack. Finally, growing tired of us, he jumped off and headed back into the trees, seeking shelter from the afternoon’s heat.

Starting up our truck, we drove through and then exited the enclosure into another area. A small bit of travel ensued before we finally spotted the first of two female lions. One, named Savannah, stood under a tree watching us warily before approaching, yet still maintaining a bit of distance. We drove along the road with her staying nearby until we came across her mate, Madibah, a proud male. Promptly, Madibah jumped into the hood and waited for his treat, while Savannah waited patiently nearby. After he was satisfied, he climbed onto our roof and Savannah took her turn, giving us some great photo opportunities with the assistance of our guide.

While I don’t recommend it, we did get some pretty decent shots of Madibah by holding our phone’s camera through an opening at the top of the vehicle. After trying it once, (seeing another friend successfully photograph Madibah this way), I was roared at, causing me to quickly pull my phone inside. On a trip a week later, another friend had Madibah grab her phone from her, biting it and hurling it from the vehicle onto the muddy road.

I wonder if Apple Care covers that!

Our thirty minute adventure soon came to a close and we headed back to where we had started.

What I did learn later, however, is that in addition to the adult lion encounter, Ranch de Bandia also offers a baby lion encounter. This was not an option offered to us nor to any of my friends who visited near that time, leaving me to wonder if it is something that has been added recently or if there were no baby lions at that time.

A visit to both parks is something special for visitors to Senegal. An opportunity to see many animals in a protected reserve is unique to the area and should not be missed! And if you travel with my friend and tour guide, a great dinner on the beach in nearby Saly can wrap up your day’s adventures!!

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Ranch de Bandia

Lion cub activity, 1000-1530, daily, 15 minutes. 25,000CFA per person. 18 years and over only. Mandatory dress required: trousers and closed shoes.
Lion Safari, 0900-1630, daily, 30 minutes. Children ages, 3-10 years, 10,000CFA per person. Adults, 20,000CFA per person.
Compulsory vehicle rental for the safari, 20,000 CFA for a maximum capacity of 7 people.

The Motherland Experience

http://themotherlandexperiencetraveltours.com
Telephone: +221 77 295 24 24
Owner: Mass Kane
Email: Kanemass@hotmail.com

Into the Wild

There was a time when I used to spend multiple days in Senegal.

Having so much time to explore, we saw a great deal of not only the city of Dakar but of the neighboring areas.

One morning, after having been up for most of the night, enjoying a few (or maybe more) cocktails, we convened in the lobby of our hotel for a day’s adventure. Though my eyes may have been a little red and my head throbbing somewhat, I made it downstairs in time to greet our tour guide for the day.

It had always been my desire to go on an African safari. I longed to roam an African nation in an open top vehicle on the search for the Big Five while shooting frame after frame with my telephoto lens. So, when my friend suggested we go to the Bandia Reserve for a “mini safari” experience, I was eager to join her, however, hearing the words, “reserve”, I must admit, I didn’t have many expectations. What I envisioned was more like a zoo.

But as our tour guide, Mass, arrived and herded us into his van, his excitement for the place he was taking us was a bit contagious. After a quick nap in the rear seat, I woke to spectacular sights during the long drive…colorful villages, Senegalese women balancing things on their heads, gaudy buses emblazoned with kooky paint jobs, men driving horse-drawn carts, huge baobab trees.

Though I was still a bit skeptical, the way Mass had described this place…3500 hectacres of grand nature…had me curious as to what we would find.

As we drove around the park, I was amazed. Although I knew this was extremely different from what I would find in say, Tanzania, Kenya or South Africa, I was impressed, especially when we came upon a large group of giraffes lounging in the road, blocking our way.

Fast forward to 2017, for my 50th birthday and 25th wedding anniversary, my husband and I finally went on safari in Tanzania. While vast acres of wilderness spread out before us in the Serengeti, Ngorogoro Crater and Tarangire National Park, my memories of the Bandia Reserve were not so different, except that we didn’t have as much expanse to drive around and that we never found the elusive rhinos that reside in Bandia.

Coming back to Dakar after being off for a year due to Covid, I was excited to see, once again, the city that holds such a dear place in my heart. I was even more excited to learn that a good friend would be flying with me and we, both avid photographers, made plans to go to revisit the Bandia Reserve.

I had made arrangements for Mass to drive us to Bandia Reserve and two other members of our work group decided to join us. After a long night of no sleep, (this time due to work…no cocktails!), we all dozed during the long drive, reminiscent of my first expedition. However, I was awake long enough to enjoy the colorful sights!

As we pulled into the park and exited our vehicle, the first thing I noticed was a gigantic baobab tree (sacred to the Senegalese) and a few monkeys scampering around its base. Mesmerized by these small apes and their antics, we were unaware that our vehicle was ready to be loaded and we had to be collected by Mass as our safari driver was ready to take us through the park.

Heading out on the bumpy, dirt roads, we passed through the part of the park that houses the giant tortoises and the hyenas. The hyenas have a place of “honor” behind a tall, secure chain link gate and are the only carnivores within the park. As you can imagine, since the park is secured by towering barricades at its borders, the other residents would be sitting ducks for these fierce, doglike creatures during their comestible pursuits.

Continuing into the wild, it wasn’t long before we had our first encounter. A group of giraffes were enjoying the shade of a robust baobab tree and the nearby thicket. One stood warily as we approached, seemingly ready to defend its turf if we ventured too close while others merely ignored our presence. A short drive away, we encountered a group of three young males eager to show their prowess by fighting each other by using their necks.

As we made our way down each of the dusty roads, we encountered, ostriches, giant eland, oryx, antelope, waterbuck, western Buffon’s cob, greater kudu, nyalas, impalas, gazelles, warthogs, buffalo, more monkeys, more giraffe and many species of bird.

Not long after an encounter with a pair of zebras, we were driving along and noticed another jeep parked down a narrow lane. Our driver quickly turned and approached slowly. What had eluded us on my first visit was sitting lazily under the tree in front of us…the park’s two rhinos! Resting in the shade, these magnificent creatures, used to being gawked at by visitors, merely looked over at us through heavily lidded eyes with much disinterest. Finally, one stood and took a few steps toward our vehicle, giving us more photographic opportunities and the impression that maybe we had worn out our welcome.

Backing slowly, we retreated the way we had come in search of more adventure in Bandia.

A short time later, after countless sighting of smaller animals and more giraffe, we came to another giant baobab tree and a sign, Tombeau de Griots (the Tomb of the Griots). This tree is one of the last baobab trees that house griot remains. The griots are considered masters of knowledge and keepers of historical records across generations. They include singers, poets, instrumentalists, musicians and storytellers who maintain a tradition of oral history in parts of West Africa. Because the baobabs are considered sacred and represent longevity and knowledge, they were chosen to be the appropriate place to store the remains of the griots.

I had remembered this place from my first visit and as I jumped out of the jeep and peered into the opening at the base of the baobab tree, I once again saw the skulls of the griots. They are protected by a metal screen so that the bones cannot be disturbed. Although these remains have been allowed to stay inside of this particular baobab tree due to it being on private property, since 1962, the burial of griots in baobabs has been banned due to the health risks of the decomposition of bodies.

After a couple of photos with my travel mates, we jumped back into our safari jeep and headed back to the front of the reserve. Inside the restaurant, we took a look at the crocodiles in the lake and skirted the monkeys looking for a handout from the diners.

*Restaurants, shops and public areas at the Bandia Reserve.*

It had already been a long day, but Mass decided that it was not over. Though we toyed with the idea of dining at the reserve, our guide promised us that he had a much better place. A short drive took us to the beachfront in Saly for some fresh seafood and picturesque views.

Once again, Senegal did not disappoint. Nature at its finest…on all fronts!

If you are visiting Dakar, make sure to book a trip to the Bandia Reserve, one of Senegal’s highlights. Also, right across the street is the Lion Ranch…your opportunity to see the big cats of Senegal. Definitely on my to-do list!

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Bandia Reserve

http://reservedebandia.com/home.html
Address: N 2 Route de Mbour, Saly, SN
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: Payments can be made in FCFA, Euros or by credit card. Adults, 12,000 FCFA or 18.50€, Children under 12 years, 7,000 FCFA or 10.50€. Use outside vehicle (personal, taxi, car), 10,000 FCFA or 15€, Safari truck rental with up to 11 seats, 40,000 FCFA or 61€, Safari truck rental up to 24 seats, 60,000 FCFA or 91€, Guide (compulsory)per vehicle, 6.500 FCFA or 10€.
Getting There: Coming from Dakar by motorway, take the Sindia/Popeguine exit number 14 to Sindia in 2 km, then take a right on the National Road (N1) Dakar-Mbour for 3,3 km, turn left at the signposts, continue the track in laterite for 800m. Coming from Saly, you will have 15 km to travel and 18 km from Mbour.

Motherland Experience Travel Tours

http://themotherlandexperiencetraveltours.com
Telephone: +221 77 295 24 24
Email: Kanemass@hotmail.com
Owner: Mass Kane

Sawa Sawa

As we drove out of Tarangire National Park, one thing repeated itself over and over in my head.

“Sawa Sawa”.

A year ago, I didn’t know what the Swahili phrase meant. Now, if I am completing something, I hear Fahad’s throaty voice asking, “Sawa Sawa?”

Whenever we were out in one of the parks and we were ready to move on, Fahad would always ask in Swahili, “Sawa Sawa?” Though technically translated to English, it means “equal”, it also is means, “fine”, “all good” and “no worries” and what Fahad was asking was if we were ready to go.

Though we were not ready to move on, it was time for our adventure to end and time to return to Arusha, Nairobi and then home.

Driving through the park, heading to the exit, in order to make our way back to Arusha, we looked out at the elephants and giraffes, the baobab trees and the amazing landscapes that we had admired over the past week.

I definitely was not going miss the bumpy roads or the tsetse flies, but I would miss the beauty of each day, the animals, the scrumptious cuisine, our quaint lodges, local beer, our new friends, Mathilda (our 4×4), and, of course, Fahad.

I was going to miss Tanzania.

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The Final Resting Place

When you think about Africa, you usually think about extremely warm temperatures. Although the weather in the Serengeti was on the warmer side, we found residing at 2,000 feet above the crater floor at Ngorongoro to be quite chilly. We hadn’t pulled out our swimsuits…yet…and after all of our travels, we were ready for some fun in the sun!

Driving through Tarangire National Park and coming over a slight rise, 140 kilometers from Arusha, we found ourselves looking down at the Tarangire Sopa Lodge. As we pulled in to the picturesque property, we were elated to be off of the dusty park roads and were ready for a big lunch!

The always attentive Sopa staff was waiting at the entrance with cool, perfumed towels to wipe away the grime and we were each assigned a porter who escorted us to our circular suites with conical roofs, complete with sitting room, mini-bar, two queen beds, mosquito nets and balconies overlooking the wooded areas adjacent to the lodge.

Heading quickly out to the pool area, where we were instructed that lunch would be waiting, we stared in awe at the lawn where hundreds of rock hyrax lounged in the bright sunshine, munching on grass, leaves and insects. Not afraid of us, they perched on the short bordering walls next to the pathways and stared up at us curiously while we strolled by.

As we rounded the buildings, an oasis presented itself to us…a large lazy-river-type pool with a bridge leading to a small island in the center! Wow! We couldn’t wait to finish lunch, jump in and cool off!

Lunch, a buffet-style affair was the utmost in deliciousness! Barbecued chicken and sausage, fish, shawarma, rice dishes, salads and fabulous desserts were available for us to enjoy while sitting under thatched umbrellas. Though we filled our bellies and could have been happy to descend in to a short food coma, we forced ourselves to our rooms, donned our swimsuits and returned to the pool to relax in the sun with our friends and a few beers! Though the waters were extremely cool, it was nice to enjoy the African afternoon. This was the life! Were we only going to be here for two nights?

The lodge, built on different levels is a comfortable respite in Tarangire National Park. The large, main public area, is filled with carvings, African relics, hand-woven carpets and marble floors. The lounge, where we convened before dinner that evening, is on an upper level with floor to ceiling windows and an outdoor terrace. Surrounding the bar, there are televisions with sports broadcasts for those unwilling to miss their favorite games and a pool table for friendly competitions. Wifi is also available in the main building and large comfortable seating groups and fans provide comfortable resting areas to surf the internet and contact loved ones back home.

Our breakfasts and evening meals were served buffet style in the large, open dining area in the main building and consisted of many types of dishes and fabulous service. My favorite, mandazis (a fried donut), were present at breakfast and I was determined to eat my fill during my final days in Tanzania.

An outdoor terrace ran along one length of the dining room so breakfast could be enjoyed along with the view of the park’s tree-studded, grassy plains and a large outdoor patio offered dinner every other night beneath a star filled sky. Inside the dining room, an intricately painted mural at one end of the room is not to be missed as well as the exotic flooring with its multi-colored timbers and copper nails.

As with both of our mealtimes during the midday, lunch is always served, weather permitting, beside the pool. During the rainy season (April-May), the dry river bed fills up and offers a sparkling, gurgling backdrop…just watch out for the monkeys who lurk nearby, hoping to sneak a piece of fruit!

As the lodge property is not enclosed in any way, animals are at liberty to come and go as they please and we spotted quite a few gazelle and monkeys from our balconies. We didn’t realize, however, how many other animals make their way on to the property. On our first night, while heading back to our room after dinner, we were greeted at the head of the pathway by one of the lodge’s guards. He informed us that many different animals are spotted on the property during the nighttime hours…even lions! Indeed, two Cape Buffalo were not far away grazing on the front lawn. They didn’t glance our way and our guard did not seem very fazed by the situation. We wondered, however, what would happen if an elephant decided to charge or if a lion decided to have a late night “touristy” snack. Checking out the guard, we realized that he did not carry a gun or weapon…only a flashlight. Gosh! How ever would he defend us?

With its position within the Tarangire National Park, the Tarangire Sopa Lodge is truly what one expects with a safari adventure in Tanzania. As I closed our mosquito net around us and listened to the night sounds through our screened patio door, it dawned on me that it was our last night in Tanzania. Our safari adventure was coming to an end and in the morning, we would be making our way back to Arusha.

One more mealtime in the morning…have to make sure I get some mandazis before we leave this amazing place!

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Tarangire Sopa Lodge

http://www.sopalodges.com/tarangire-sopa-lodge/overview
Address: Tarangire National Park, Manyara Region, Tanzania
Rates: Rates vary by season, Low, High and Peak, Single Suite, Double Suite and Triple Suite and Full Board and Half Board. $170-$867 per night

Land of the Elephants and Baobabs

Mating lions. Lounging cheetahs. Charging elephants. Jumping warriors.

These were some of the amazing things we had seen so far on our Tanzanian adventure. What could Tarangire National Park possibly offer up that would be so different?

Turning off of Tarangire Road, we soon found ourselves at the Tarangire National Park Visitor’s Center. The sixth largest national park in Tanzania is located in the Manyara Region and is famous for it high density of elephants and baobab trees. Though I had seen my fair share of baobab trees in Senegal, it was something new for many in our group.

The Visitor’s Center was a nice place to stretch our legs for a short time while Fahad and our other guides checked us in. The area was lined with walking paths which we utilized as we made our way to an impressive wooden staircase and viewing platform. Adjacent to a baobob tree, a species which we had begun to notice growing in the region while on our journey to Tarangire, the platform allowed an up-close and personal look at the “tree of life” as they are also known. These massive trees reach heights of sixteen to ninety-eight feet and have trunk diameters of twenty-three to thirty-six feet. The trees are the largest and most important in Africa as their trunk can hold up to 120,000 liters of water and they provide shelter and wood. For most of the year, the tree is leafless and it appears that it has it roots sticking up in the air, earning it another nickname, “the upside-down tree”, however, when the leaves can be harvested, they are used for making soup and medicine.

Termite mounds were very common in the Serengeti, however, we were never able to exit our vehicles to see them up close. Here at the Visitor’s Center, we were able to follow one of the paths to see one at arm’s length and we learned that they were plenty throughout the park, many housing armies of dwarf mongooses.

Soon, it was time to move along and begin our game drive while enroute to the Tarangire Sopa Lodge…there would be many baobabs, termite mounds and a wealth of wildlife throughout the two days we would spend here.

Our first impression of Tarangire was a hot and sweaty one. Much more arid and dry than the other two parks, it was also sweltering and teeming with tsetse flies. The blue and black flags were present throughout the park and although they didn’t cause me much anguish, my travel mates suffered their piercing bites.

Because of the scorching temperatures, the watering holes were where we were headed. Giraffes and zebras gathered around an oasis of green-tinted water and herds of elephants lined the banks of the Tarangire River, the primary source of fresh water in the Tarangire Ecosystem.

As we sat high on a ridge, overlooking the river valley, we watched as zebras, giraffes and wildebeests joined the elephants, all inhabiting the area harmoniously.

A short drive later, we soon found ourselves at the Tarangire Sopa Lodge our final resting place on our safari.

The next day, with an early start, we found ourselves watching the sun rise above the baobab trees and termite mounds which seemed to greet us at every turn.

There were many other animals, as to be expected, however, throughout the day, we encountered a large number of leopards and cheetahs, some lounging on the trees’ large limbs and some stalking their prey in the high, yellow grass.

At a different part of the river, we watched zebras and wildebeests parading in long lines to bathe and drink, vultures maintaining a sharp eye on the surrounding area and hyenas mud-bathing on the banks.

Throughout the park, male ostriches danced along, bobbing their bright pink necks with females remaining aloof. At one point, while driving along, we noticed what appeared to be a male ostrich resting in the grass. Waiting for it to rise, we soon noticed that it was not alone. Not only had we been fortunate to spy the mating ritual of lions while at Ngorongoro, but now, we were able to witness that of the ostrich!

Other birds were quite plentiful throughout the park, with it being the home to more than 550 species. Bird enthusiasts converge upon the park with the hopes of spotting the numerous flocks within the trees and within and around the watering holes and we were quite charmed to spot many.

Giraffes were a common sight and our favorite was an old guy who stood right beside the road and our vehicle. He seemed as mesmerized by us as we were of him and although the lighting was behind him, I was able to capture some funny photos. Yes, funny…he appears to be smiling at us!

The elephants…Tarangire’s claim to fame…were everywhere. The largest elephant population in Tanzania has herds of up to 300 even out of the dry season, ensuring sightings throughout the year. Many baby elephants followed their mothers and we even watched a youngster running and trumpeting to alert his herd that he was left behind. Teenagers…they are all the same!

As the day drew on and the sun approached the horizon, three of my favorite memories presented themselves.

First, after a call on our radio, Fahad sped along the dusty roads, finally coming to a stop at the base of a large hill. Here, many 4x4s had gathered around a large, low-limbed tree. On the branches rested three female lions. Though it was hard to capture them photographically in the failing afternoon light, it was fascinating to spot them in the tree. Though we had seen many cheetahs resting in the trees throughout our trip, this was a first for us…and honestly, I don’t think I ever realized that lions climb trees!

Our second encounter was with an imposing herd of wildebeests. Stretching out as far as we could see, a few approached the road, attempting to cross. We stopped to watch, hoping to see them make their way in front of us. After a few timid tries, one (we nicknamed her Helen), was a bit more brazen than the rest. Stopping to think about the passage, she looked around for a while, finally breaking into a slight run and eventually a full gallop. The others, watching her carefully, mimicked her actions and began to run across the road. Soon the massive herd crossed immediately before us, stirring up a huge dust cloud, in a thunderous roar!

Giddy with the excitement of seeing the wildebeests, we made our way towards to the lodge at full speed. Knowing Fahad only drives quickly when there is something special to see, we wondered what it could be as he had not received any calls on the radio and the sun was heavy on the horizon. Pulling over to the side of the road, we looked out on the landscape to a massive baobab, filled with vultures and the bright orange sun setting behind it. I couldn’t have pictured a more fitting end to our day in the land of the elephants and baobabs!

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Tarangire National Park

http://www.tanzaniaparks.go.tz/

Tarangire National Park

http://www.tanzaniaparks.go.tz/

The Trek To Tarangire

Parting is such sweet sorrow…

I have seen some of the most beautiful places in this world. Ngorongoro Crater tops that list! Truly one of the most remarkable environments I have had the privilege to lay my eyes upon, I was definitely despising our departure.

Of course, there was going to be lots of new and exciting things to see in our next destination, Tarangire National Park. However, one must not overlook the journey to get there. Watching the scenery as we navigated the roads and highways would prove to be new and exciting too!

Many vibrant communities lined our route, with countless villagers going about their day to day living. Markets were in full swing and people were waiting alongside the roadways in order to get there.

A couple of hours into our trek, we made a stop at the African Galleria. Once we had utilized their facilities, we took a bit of time to walk around and inspect the amazing artwork. Yes, there were the normal masks, souvenirs and fabrics that you would find in any market, but there was also the most awe-inspiring carvings that I have ever seen. After spotting the most intricate piece of shaped wood, depicting migrating wildebeests, my curiosity got the best of me and I had to inquire about some of the prices.

They were willing to make a deal for me their first customer (okay, I’ve heard that one before).

They would give me a much better deal because it was Sunday (yeah, heard that one too).

They would pack it carefully and ship it via FedEx and it would be waiting for me when I got home.

Any guesses as to the price? Well, let’s just say that I could have booked another safari with what they wanted to charge me.

Not that it wasn’t worth it! It truly was! Both my husband and I agreed that the craftsmanship required to master a piece like that was worth the price. When you have two children in college, however, you have to admire from afar and move along!

Strolling around, we made it to the more affordable part of the galleria and negotiated a fair price for a couple of other pieces. Heading outside to relax with a couple of sodas, we then spotted the King of the Jungle! Naturally, we had to pose for a few pics!

Turning back onto the highway, we traveled for a while until Fahad pulled over from the roadway to a fruit seller’s stand. He said he had a surprise. Well, it was definitely a surprise! Have you ever seen or tasted a red banana? Absolutely delicious!

Enjoying our red bananas, we traveled for a while longer before turning onto Tarangire Road. This intersection was teeming with activity! The Minjingu Market was going strong with villagers from miles around selling their wares and making deals. So colorful and busy, we weren’t sure where to look!

Although Tarangire was only a short drive down the road, we didn’t have time to stop and enjoy the activity.

The elephants were calling!

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Minjingu Market

African Galleria

http://africangalleriatz.net/

The Descent

If seeing the Maasai up close and personal was the main thing that I wanted to do on my safari, Ngorongoro Crater was a close second.

So many people look a bit confused when you mention Ngorongoro Crater…it’s something they have probably seen before in pictures, but not something that they have ever given much thought to. Me? I knew exactly what it was and I couldn’t wait to see it!

After leaving Olduvai Gorge, we began the long and winding road up to the rim of the crater. Passing many villages on the way, we also continued to see the occasional giraffe and dust devil in the distance. We relished the giraffe sightings as we know that we would not be seeing any in the crater as their long legs prohibit them from descending and ascending the steep crater walls.

Passing the luxurious (and wildly expensive) Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, we knew we were almost there. Only six lodges sit on the crater rim, offering a bed capacity of only 560 along with sixteen campsites. Realizing how very few people are allowed here every night, it dawned on us what a privilege the journey was that we were about to undertake.

As our 4×4 climbed the steep road, we breathed a sigh of relief when we finally pulled into a parking area on the side of the road. This was it…our first view of Ngorongoro Crater!

Standing on the viewing platform, we gazed out on the crater’s unadulterated beauty. Far below us, we could distinguish the magnificent savannah plains, highlands and forest canopies, detect herds of large animals on the crater floor and see some safari vehicles traveling along the crisscrossing roads. Tomorrow, that would be us.

Completing the final part of our journey, we were soon pulling into our home for the next two nights, the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge.

Settling in, we were soon enjoying cocktails while admiring the stunning sunset from the lodge’s lounge and it’s westward facing location. Small monkeys paraded around the grounds and a couple of Cape Buffalo were spotted near the rear of the lodge foraging for their dinner.

The next morning, up bright and early and outfitted appropriately for the colder temperatures of the crater’s rim, we set out under the darkness of the new morning. After a brief stop to check in at the Ranger’s station, we began making our way down the canopy covered road.

Centuries ago, a towering volcanic mountain, as high as Kilimanjaro, stood in this spot. After a tremendous eruption, the volcano’s interior, empty of magma, could no longer support the weight above and collapsed on itself. It became the world’s sixth-largest unbroken caldera with more than a hundred square miles in its flat bottom, which did not flood. Its diverse environment of savannas, marshes, lakes, salt pans, forests and escarpments then became the home for many species of African wildlife, which we hoped to see.

As luck would have it, the first sighting of the day was of some “honeymooners”. Not the human kind…these honeymooners were two separate sets of male and female lions almost lost in the tall grass. The lion mating ritual was one of complete interest, once the affair was explained to us by our guide.

The female, already in estrus, attracts the male who mounts her, inserting his penis, which has barbs that begin to dig into the female. As he retracts, the pain caused to the female causes her to lash out at him, swatting her large paws at him. As the mating ritual continues approximately every fifteen minutes for as many as five days, the female produces eggs and the chances of fertilization is increased.

Watching both of these interesting spectacles for their many attempts, we noticed one of the male’s brothers lying in wait…hoping for a chance at the female if she tired of his sibling.

Moving on, we spied many other animals that we had yet to see during our trek…a lone jackal, a pair of nocturnal bat-eared foxes returning to their den for a days rest and finally…wildebeests. Thousands of blue wildebeests roamed the crater floor, grazing in the early morning light.

Personally, I love the wildebeests for their unique appearance. Nicknamed “Spare Parts”, it’s easy to see why as they look like they were made from so many other animals! Their forequarters look like they come from an ox, their hindquarters from an antelope and their mane and tail from a horse.

Driving along the countless trails that span the crater floor, a female lion was spotted alongside the road. A few 4x4s stopped to admire her reserved beauty as she lounged in the heat of the new day. Soon, tiring of her grassy spot, she stood and ambled over to the road, making her way between two of the safari vehicles. Laziness prevailed and she quickly decided that the middle of the road was much better than her previous spot. Too bad for those trying to make their way!

Continuing on, we passed another pride of lions while continuing over a hill admiring the many zebras making their way in a line along the ridge. As we crested the hill, before us stood a most beautiful oasis!

Truly, my breath was taken away as we looked out at the clouds wrapping their misty fingers over the crater’s rim and the reflections within a pond lying before us, only broken by the occasional movement of the many hippo lounging within.

As we pulled up to the pond, preparing to have our breakfast here, I stepped out of our safari vehicle to stretch my legs and to make my way to the restroom facilities. A huge splash and a loud grunt, however, caught my attention. Mesmerized, I watched an extremely large hippo lunge through the pond toward another, bellowing loudly. The next few minutes were filled with two hippos berating each other, whipping their tales and splashing wildly while engaging the other in a sinister altercation.

Knowing that many deaths are attributed to hippos each year did not deter me from venturing closer and closer to the lake in an attempt to catch this exhibition on camera, so fascinating as it was! It was the most exciting thing we had seen thus far!

Soon, the hippos tired of each other and moved on to meld with the other hippos wading in the shallows of the basin.

Enjoying our breakfast, we marveled at our surroundings, basking in its endless beauty. I couldn’t stop watching the clouds rolling over the top of the crater, the succession of zebras that continued to make their way over the hill behind us and to the rear of the lake and the hippos that continued to laze in the murky waters. Honestly, I don’t know if I have ever been in a more beautiful place!

Our morning meal completed, we reluctantly moved on, migrating with the other vehicles along the dusty crater roads. Flightless male ostriches flaunted their pink necks and plumage and my favorite feathered creature in the crater, the Secretary Bird, made itself known throughout our journey.

Our next stop was at another hippo pool. This one and its surroundings, however, were filled with so much activity, we were unsure where to focus our attention. In the pool, hippos lounged lazily, occasionally flipping over to flash their undersides and countless birds waded in the shallows and lingered along the banks. Ranks of zebras, head to tail, made their way along the rear of the pool and in the distance we spotted something amazing…a pride of lions guarding their kill!

Lazing in the mid-morning sun after their filling meal, they allowed the occasional hyena and jackal to enjoy the remnants of the slaughtered Cape Buffalo. Meanwhile, a herd of Cape Buffalo, possibly the relations of the deceased, moved closer and closer to the pride, finally coming to a standoff. The herd, wanting to pass, stared the pride down until finally backing away and taking another path to the watering hole avoiding the many hyena and jackal roaming the area.

Reluctantly departing this array of activity, we found ourselves at a rest stop. Taking a small break, we walked around the area, enjoying the foliage and eyeing an elephant roaming among the trees.

As usual, our safari vehicle was the last to leave the area, but as we pulled away from the rest stop, my husband noticed movement in another cluster of trees. An enormous elephant moved out from the brush, exposing the largest set of tusks that we had ever seen. Estimated by our guide to be about sixty years old, he stayed near the tree line. As another vehicle pulled up to speak to our driver, we watched the old guy move away from the trees and slowly amble toward us. His gait was slow and tired but we soon noticed him picking up speed, realizing he was heading right for us! And…Fahad was not paying attention! “Fahad! Fahad!” We weren’t sure what was going to happen and we all ducked into the vehicle just as the senior mammoth reached us and bumped the back of our 4×4! As quickly as he came, he ambled away…”his fifth leg” swinging and obviously please with himself. Pulses beating rapidly, we drove away and allowed him to enjoy the rest of his day while we explored the Lerai Forest, home to the tall, slim yellow barked acacia trees.

The remainder of the day was filled with monkeys, zebras, wildebeests, ostriches, gazelles and a fun pair of warthogs, covered in mud and hellbent on using a rock to give themselves a good scratching!

The day was drawing to a close and as we traveled toward home, one more thing presented itself to us. A lion relaxed on one of the small culvert walls adjacent to the road. So close was he to our vehicle that I could have reached out and given him a pat. Now, I would have had a great story to tell, I’m sure, but probably would have left an appendage or two behind.

As we drove out of Ngorongoro Crater, it was hard to believe the spectacles we had witnessed. I had thought it would be hard to beat the Serengeti, but the crater had offered up its own predators, beasts and fowl. Cruising the crater floor was truly one of the most amazing parts of our safari thus far. Though we were saying goodbye at this point, we headed back to our lodge, knowing we would say our final goodbyes looking out over the crater. The famous Ngorongoro sunset would be our ultimate adieu.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Ngorongoro Crater

http://www.ngorongorocrater.org/
Gates and barriers open at 0600 and close at 1800, except for the Seneto Descent Gate, which close at 1600 hours.
ALL VISITORS TO NGORONGORO CRATER MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A LICENSED GUIDE.
Keep to authorized roads and tracks. No off-road driving.
Speed limits 25km/hour
Only vehicles equipped with standard safaris equipment allowed in the Crater (heavy-duty jack; chain/rope; shovel/hoe; axe/panga)
No more than 5 vehicles around an animal or kill

Ngorongoro Crater

http://www.ngorongorocrater.org/

The Jumping Nomads

The Maasai.

This tribe has fascinated me for years, from the first time I saw their jumping tribesmen on a documentary highlighting the nomadic people. I loved the action, the singing and their colorful clothing.

As I scoured the itinerary for our safari, the first thing that stood out was the visit to a Maasai village. Yes, I was excited to see the beautiful scenery and the animals, but I was most excited to see the Maasai!

Having driven to Arusha from Nairobi, I had already spotted many Maasai along the way, walking along the roads and tending their cattle. I had also spotted many Maasai villages dotting the landscape while flying to the Serengeti. I was giddy with excitement, however, as we pulled off of the roadway and parked under an acacia tree in front of a village on the way from the Serengeti to Olduvai Gorge.

Many villagers, dressed in their colorful Shúkà, emerged from the entryway of their compound and lined up while one of the village elders, Lalashe, came over to greet and welcome us to the village.

While we waited for the others in our party to arrive, we mingled with the women as they decorated us with their beautiful, beaded collars. They sang songs and smiled at us while the men, practiced their dance moves. Soon, the others safari vehicles pulled under the acacia tree and our friends joined us for the show.

The Maasai women began to sing harmonies while one of them, the song leader, or olaranyani, sang the melody. As she began by singing a line or title (namba) of the song, the group responded with a call of acknowlegement. The olaranyani then sang a verse over the group’s rhythmic throat singing. The women moved their necks…tilting their head back for an inward breath and then breathing out when their head was leaned forward.

While the women provided the music, one of the men used the Greater Kudu, or horn and the other men formed lines, moving together and chanting rhythmically, “Oooooh-yah” with a growl and staccato cough. They thrust and withdrew their bodies, some jumping.

As their performance came to a close, we were invited into their compound and gathered under a large tree in the center. The men continued to chant while jumping extremely high in what seemed to be a competition among them.

Eventually, we were gathered around two of the male villagers who proceeded to demonstrate how the Maasai make fire. With a bit of a breeze, conditions weren’t right and they were unsuccessful after two lengthy attempts. Clapping for their efforts, we then moved on to other parts of their village.

The schoolhouse was nearby and as we glanced into the small hut, the young children sang a song for us, recited their ABC’s and we inspected their lessons written on their chalkboard. Handing over the small gifts we had brought (pens, pencils and paper) to the schoolmaster, we were thanked profusely by everyone.

The king’s son, then divided us into groups and assigned us to one of the male villagers whose job was to escort us around the village and show us how they lived. As my group entered the small mud huts, we were greeted by darkness. Our eyes adjusted and we noticed a small cooking area in the center and two raised sleeping pallets at the rear of the hut. We were informed that the building of the huts are the women’s responsibility and they assist each other with the task, each hut taking about four days to build. When the king’s son, who had led us around, was asked if he lived with all of his wives and families in one hut, we were greeted with a laugh and a funny response, “Oh, no, each of my wives have their own hut. Women fight too much!”

Exiting the huts, we saw many women and children who had not performed during our arrival, peeking out curiously at us. Shyly, they remained in the doorways of their huts where they could dart back in if a camera was raised.

One thing we noticed about those who were present in the village was that there were no young boys or teens. Boys who have reached puberty participate in a rite of passage, an emorata…a circumcision ceremony performed without anesthetic, believing the pain with lead them into manhood. The newly circumcised young men then live in another village built by their mothers (a manyatta) which has no barricade for protection, since they are now warriors and can protect themselves. These newly minted warriors spend much of their time on walkabouts throughout the Maasai lands and can be recognized by their elaborate white face paint. Before arriving at the village, we had spotted what we thought was a newly circumcised boy, but in actuality, it was some younger boys playing a joke on unsuspecting tourists. They had plastered some white tape on their foreheads! Later, however, we did see some “authentic” newly circumcised boys walking along the roadway.

Our leaders escorted us around the center of the village where tables had been set up showcasing a wide variety of crafts available for purchase. As we walked around and selected objects of interest, we tried to keep in mind the instructions given to us by our guides about negotiations. “Start by offering half of the price they give”. Usually a great negotiator in African markets, I was again a bit off of my game and let my emotions get in the way of my common sense, ending up paying a bit more than I probably should have.

Walking away with a mask and a statue, I know that we had made an impact on the villager’s day to day life. Learning to survive in the modern world, the villagers use the money they earn from their craft sales and the admission charged per safari vehicle to pay for things we take for granted like water. Instead of walking miles to the nearest watering hole, the modern day Maasai can have water delivered!

It was then time to say goodbye. We reluctantly handed back our colorful collars that the women had lent to us at the beginning of our visit and made our way back to our safari vehicles. Many of the villagers came out and as we drove away, they all stood proudly, a colorful mark on a barren land, waving goodbye!

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Maasai Village

http://maasaiwilderness.org/maasai/
There are many Maasai villages in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. If you are with a tour company, the villages are visited on a rotating basis. A recent change necessitates a $50 per vehicle

The Sneaky Monkey Lodge

Glancing out from our table in the restaurant, it wasn’t uncommon to see animals wandering by and stopping to quench their thirst at the watering hole located adjacent to our lodge….

The Serengeti Sopa Lodge.

Located 45 minutes from the Seronera Airstrip and 319 kilometers from Arusha, the Serengeti Sopa Lodge is located in the Nyarboro Hills, overlooking the plains of the southwestern Serengeti National Park.

It had been a full day, having risen early, flown to the Serengeti and already seen a myriad of animals. It was nice to arrive at our lodge and be greeted with cool towels and fruity drinks to quench our thirst.

As we entered our spacious, tastefully furnished rooms, we admired the local fabrics and artwork and the small, entrance area sitting room, complete with mini refrigerator and mini bar. Painted in earthy tones, our room contained two queen sized-beds surrounded by flowing mosquito nets and a colossal bathroom. Stepping out onto the balcony, we admired the view of the plains below. It was amazing! We were smack dab in the middle of the famed Serengeti!

Below us, various antelope strolled through the trees and above us, monkeys swung from branch to branch, occasionally dropping onto nearby balconies and peeking into the lodge’s rooms. So fearless they seemed, we wondered if they might jump into your lap while relaxing on the balcony!

During the three days that the lodge was our home, we came to appreciated its open and airy floor plan filled with large comfortable chairs made of driftwood, with huge cushions and colorful throw pillows.

Our assigned tables in the dining room were perched on the balcony allowing us to look out over the Serengeti while we enjoyed the prefix menus and bountiful buffets. My husband, a picky eater, thought that he might lose some weight during our adventure, but after viewing the lavish spreads, he realized that all was lost! The food was so delicious and offered something to satisfy everyone’s palate.

The service was beyond anything we could have ever imagined. Each and every one of the employees of the Serengeti Sopa Lodge did everything to make our stay beyond magnificent. After discovering a breakfast doughnut, resembling something my late grandmother made for me as a child, one of the workers recorded the recipe and brought it to me on my last day! I can’t wait to try it!

And…after long days on the bumpy roads of the Serengeti, it was always nice to relax at the bar for a cold beer or tasty cocktail. The bar, located in the corner of the lowest level, offered an open terrace with comfortable chairs and heaters for the chilly nights.

It was here that we learned a story about the sneaky monkeys!

Although we would have loved to have left our veranda doors open for ventilation and there was a screened door, we adhered to the warnings about the keeping the doors closed. On many occasions, we spotted the local monkeys peering through the glass or taking naps on our balconies. We joked that the monkeys were casing the joint!

I had also heard stories about monkeys grabbing purses and cameras from unsuspecting tourists and had had my hat stolen by a monkey in Thailand. I knew what they were capable of…our doors were staying locked!

Well, one of the sneaky monkeys, had apparently been casing our neighbors room. As she stepped out onto her balcony to admire the sunset, she neglected to shut the screen door behind her. Realizing his opportunity, the monkey jumped onto the balcony and dashed past her into her room. Grabbing all of the sugars from her mini bar, he ran past her and jumped onto her neighbors balcony, appearing to mock her as she screamed for help!

SO traumatized by her experience, she definitely had to retire to the bar for a drink to calm her nerves!

Lesson learned, watch out for monkeys!

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Serengeti Sopa Lodge

http://www.sopalodges.com/serengeti-sopa-lodge/overview
Address: 99 Serengeti Road, Sopa Plaza, Serengeti
Rates: Rates vary by season, Low, High and Peak, Single Suite, Double Suite and Triple Suite and Full Board and Half Board. $170-$865 per night

The Endless Plains

The Seregeti.

Covering almost 30,000 square kilometers with its location in northern Tanzania and Kenya, the Serengeti’s wildlife and scenery is beyond anything imaginable. As far as the eye can see, the Serengeti spreads out…offering nature’s magnificence….the endless plains.

Disembarking from our aircraft, we stepped into the bright sunshine and were greeted by our safari guide, Fahad. This was the person that we would come to rely on for the next week as our driver, our guide, our teacher and more importantly, our friend. As he accompanied us to the front of the small terminal, our baggage was loaded and we were introduced to our safari vehicle, Mathilda.

Into Mathilda we climbed, the five of us taking one of the six seats in the back. The roof was raised and we were on our way, scanning the horizon and observing the Thompson’s gazelles that grazed just across the road. This was it! Our first sighting on the Serengeti! So, they weren’t one of the Big Five…but it was just the beginning!

Turning left onto one of the many roads that criss-crossed the park, we bumped along, spotting other vehicles in the distance. As we slowed, we noticed movement near a patch of acacia trees…a herd of elephants! Slowly they ambled along, two youngsters with four older females. We watched them slowly until continuing further down the road. Here, we encountered another herd, and this one came extremely close to Mathilda!

What a start!

During the next few hours, we encountered warthogs, giraffes, lions, cape buffalo, monkeys, and hippos! We even spotted a cheetah holding court on a termite hill and a leopard resting on a large branch as well as countless birds flitting about and resting in the brush.

By the time we had reached the Serengeti Sopa Lodge, we had already spotted FOUR of the Big Five!

After checking into our accommodations, we enjoyed a delicious lunch and a small amount of time to unpack and freshen up. Four o’clock rolled around and it was time for our evening game drive. Not having to venture extremely far from our lodge, we saw many more of the same animals as earlier, however, the highlight of the late afternoon was finally seeing a large dazzle of zebra!

The next two days were filled with game drives beginning early in the day. We spotted hyena, dik dik, baboons, ostriches, hartebeests, secretary birds, guinea fowl, impala and many other elephants, giraffes, cape buffalo, cheetahs, zebras, and lions. In fact, the Serengeti should be named the land of the lion…they are quite plentiful and we were excited to spot them on many occasions.

The Serengeti is not all about wildlife viewing, though, that is what most people come for. There are some other places of interest in the park which help to break up the day and give everyone some time to stretch their legs and enjoy a respite from the bumpy roads.

The Serengeti Visitor’s Center, located in the heart of the Serengeti, is set in alluring natural rock formations (Kopjes). A guided or self-guided walk offers a wide range of up-to-date information on the Serengeti ecosystem. The beautiful trail is lined with exhibits on the Serengeti’s history, ecology, people and conservation and hundreds of rock hyrax resting on the walls.

The Michael Grzimek Memorial Rhino Post is a ranger post in the Moru Kopjes. It’s conservation project has a goal to protect and monitor the remaining Serengeti black rhinos, provide sound biological management to its population and to secure the Moru area for the introduction of additional rhinos. While the Serengeti was once home to approximately 1000 black rhinos, poaching reduced the population dramatically. The Rhino Post, named after Michael Grzimek, who fought to protect the rhino, offers a small hut detailing information on its conservation efforts.

Another interesting stop is at the sound rocks of the Moru Kopjes. Here you can hike to the top of a rock mass where several ancient boulders produce mellow notes when tapped with smaller stones. Whether once used as instruments or a method of communication, it is now a interesting stop for visitors…and the views aren’t so bad either!

Some of the most memorable moments of our time in the Serengeti were watching a coalition of cheetah relaxing under a tree, a large male lion lounging near the roadway and who later joined his black maned brother in a search for their next meal, being charged by an enormous, tusked elephant, lunch in the middle of the Serengeti under a sausage tree and beautiful African sunsets.

Trying to explain to our family what we were seeing every day was extremely difficult. So surreal were our experiences, we were giddy with excitement even when exhausted from the long days. Absorbing all of the information that Fahad gave us was sometimes overwhelming, but always impressive…that man knew something about everything! Driving along, he never failed to miss things even far out in the distance!

The most memorable times, however, were when Fahad received a call on his radio and began to drive extremely fast. We knew that something good was in store!

Nicknaming him “Fishtail Freddy”, we joked that Fahad was on a mission…sometimes a “mission impossible”. After downloading the Mission Impossible theme song, we would play it for him to inspire him and assist his driving skills! On our last day, shortly after the charging elephant, Fahad picked up the radio, listened and began to drive quickly. Turning on our theme song, it was just finishing as we pulled up to five other safari vehicles lining the side of the road. Here, we found out what the fast driving and fishtailing had brought us to.

In the distance, there was not one…but two black rhino! The last of our Big Five!

We often joked that our wonderful Fahad, many times over, gave us Serengeti ice cream, Serengeti sauce, Serengeti nuts and, often, Serengeti whipped cream…now he had given us the Serengeti cherry!

What a way to end our time in the Endless Plains!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Serengeti

http://www.serengeti.org/index.html

Safari Express

http://safari-express.com/

Ranger Safaris

http://www.rangersafaris.com/