The Lions Next Door

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Having been on safari in Tanzania, I knew that the Bandia Reserve in Senegal, had its shortcomings.

While I absolutely loved visiting and had done so three times, there was the glaring fact that it was missing some of the animals that captivate thrill seekers…the big cats. Because it is a private reserve comprising just over 8600 acres and is surrounded by fencing, the animals that do reside there…giraffes, deer, ostrich…would be sitting ducks. There are a few hyenas that reside in the front of the park, however, they are in their own enclosure and not free to roam.

On my last visit to Bandia Reserve, I did learn something…Ranch de Bandia, a lodge which offers lion experiences, had opened recently adjacent to the reserve.  Offering up close interactions with lions, it was meant to fill the gap where The Bandia Reserve was lacking while still offering a Safari experience with big cats and a place for visitors to call home while surrounded by African wildlife.

Located only 70 kilometers from Dakar (45 minutes), it is an easy drive from the city and also located near the resort town of Saly, a popular tourist destination.  Since we were staying near the downtown area, we decided to do both activities (Bandia Reserve and Ranch de Bandia) in order to make the most of our time and the drive.

Arriving in the late morning to Bandia, we quickly realized that early arrivals and late afternoons are probably best for animal spotting.  The midday hour is when most animals are inactive due to the heat and it was on this trip when I saw the least amount of wildlife.  We still managed to see enough to make our trip worthwhile, however, the park’s rhinos remained elusive on this trip.

Bandia Reserve Entrance
Ticket booths and safari vehicles

Hyenas in their enclosure at the front of the park
Tortoises
Giraffes

Giraffes

Giraffes
Ostriches

African Buffalo
A family of “Pumbas”

Fighting Pumbas
Bridge crossing

Spotting a giraffe
The “Elephant” Baobab tree
Many kinds of deer and elk reside in the park
Monkeys
Monkey showing off

After our safari at Bandia was complete, we headed back thru the entrance gates and over to Ranch de Bandia, across the highway. 

Preparations had already been made by our tour guide, Mass Kane, so we were all set to take off on our 30 minutes of exploration into the lions’ territory. 

Loading up into the park’s specially equipped vehicles, we noticed pieces of meat still sitting on top of the truck’s iron mesh that enclosed it.  Flies were everywhere, attracted by the smell and the bloody mess, but if this was the way to attract the lions, we had to get used to it.


Lion Park Safari vehicle
Leftovers

Snack time!

Entering the gates of the enclosure, we could hear the roars of an angry cat in the distance; Malik, a territorial lion protesting our arrival.  Moving through the second set of gates, the sound of his roars became much louder and as we turned onto a small roadway, we spotted him behind a bush in a clearing.  Realizing that he would soon partake of a meal, he came forward, jumping onto the hood of our vehicle and then climbing onto the roof.  It was an amazing experience to have such  ferocious, yet beautiful creature that close to us.  As he shifted closer to the back of the truck above where I was seated, I could smell his musky scent and feel the mud from his paws falling down into my hair.  All in the experience, right?  I was definitely going to need a shower when I got home!

Inside Malik’s enclosure
Malik
Malik

Moving back to the front of the truck, he interacted with the driver and guide who, through an opening in the front mesh, doled out his afternoon snack.  Finally, growing tired of us, he jumped off and headed back into the trees, seeking shelter from the afternoon’s heat.

Starting up our truck, we drove through and then exited the enclosure into another area.  A small bit of travel ensued before we finally spotted the first of two female lions. One, named Savannah, stood under a tree watching us warily before approaching, yet still maintaining a bit of distance.  We drove along the road with her staying nearby until we came across her mate, Madibah, a proud male.  Promptly, Madibah jumped into the hood and waited for his treat, while Savannah waited patiently nearby.  After he was satisfied, he climbed onto our roof and Savannah took her turn, giving us some great photo opportunities with the assistance of our guide.


Savannah
Madibah
Madibah
Savannah on our roof
Savannah
Savannah and Madibah
Madibah hanging out on our roof

While I don’t recommend it, we did get some pretty decent shots of Madibah by holding our phone’s camera through an opening at the top of the vehicle.  After trying it once, (seeing another friend successfully photograph Madibah this way), I was roared at, causing me to quickly pull my phone inside. On a trip a week later, another friend had Madibah grab her phone from her, biting it and hurling it from the vehicle onto the muddy road. 

I wonder if Apple Care covers that!

Our thirty minute adventure soon came to a close and we headed back to where we had started. 

What I did learn later, however, is that in addition to the adult lion encounter, Ranch de Bandia also offers a baby lion encounter.  This was not an option offered to us nor to any of my friends who visited near that time, leaving me to wonder if it is something that has been added recently or if there were no baby lions at that time.

A visit to both parks is something special for visitors to Senegal.  An opportunity to see many animals in a protected reserve is unique to the area and should not be missed!  And if you travel with my friend and tour guide, a great dinner on the beach in nearby Saly can wrap up your day’s adventures!!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Ranch de Bandia

  • Lion cub activity, 1000-1530, daily, 15 minutes.  25,000CFA per person. 18 years and over only.  Mandatory dress required: trousers and closed shoes.
  • Lion Safari, 0900-1630, daily, 30 minutes. Children ages, 3-10 years, 10,000CFA per person. Adults, 20,000CFA per person.
  • Compulsory vehicle rental for the safari, 20,000 CFA for a maximum capacity of 7 people.

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