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If seeing the Maasai up close and personal was the main thing that I wanted to do on my safari, Ngorongoro Crater was a close second.
So many people look a bit confused when you mention Ngorongoro Crater…it’s something they have probably seen before in pictures, but not something that they have ever given much thought to. Me? I knew exactly what it was and I couldn’t wait to see it!
After leaving Olduvai Gorge, we began the long and winding road up to the rim of the crater. Passing many villages on the way, we also continued to see the occasional giraffe and dust devil in the distance. We relished the giraffe sightings as we know that we would not be seeing any in the crater as their long legs prohibit them from descending and ascending the steep crater walls.
Passing the luxurious (and wildly expensive) Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, we knew we were almost there. Only six lodges sit on the crater rim, offering a bed capacity of only 560 along with sixteen campsites. Realizing how very few people are allowed here every night, it dawned on us what a privilege the journey was that we were about to undertake.
As our 4×4 climbed the steep road, we breathed a sigh of relief when we finally pulled into a parking area on the side of the road. This was it…our first view of Ngorongoro Crater!
Standing on the viewing platform, we gazed out on the crater’s unadulterated beauty. Far below us, we could distinguish the magnificent savannah plains, highlands and forest canopies, detect herds of large animals on the crater floor and see some safari vehicles traveling along the crisscrossing roads. Tomorrow, that would be us.
Completing the final part of our journey, we were soon pulling into our home for the next two nights, the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge.
Settling in, we were soon enjoying cocktails while admiring the stunning sunset from the lodge’s lounge and it’s westward facing location. Small monkeys paraded around the grounds and a couple of Cape Buffalo were spotted near the rear of the lodge foraging for their dinner.
The next morning, up bright and early and outfitted appropriately for the colder temperatures of the crater’s rim, we set out under the darkness of the new morning. After a brief stop to check in at the Ranger’s station, we began making our way down the canopy covered road.
Centuries ago, a towering volcanic mountain, as high as Kilimanjaro, stood in this spot. After a tremendous eruption, the volcano’s interior, empty of magma, could no longer support the weight above and collapsed on itself. It became the world’s sixth-largest unbroken caldera with more than a hundred square miles in its flat bottom, which did not flood. Its diverse environment of savannas, marshes, lakes, salt pans, forests and escarpments then became the home for many species of African wildlife, which we hoped to see.
As luck would have it, the first sighting of the day was of some “honeymooners”. Not the human kind…these honeymooners were two separate sets of male and female lions almost lost in the tall grass. The lion mating ritual was one of complete interest, once the affair was explained to us by our guide.
The female, already in estrus, attracts the male who mounts her, inserting his penis, which has barbs that begin to dig into the female. As he retracts, the pain caused to the female causes her to lash out at him, swatting her large paws at him. As the mating ritual continues approximately every fifteen minutes for as many as five days, the female produces eggs and the chances of fertilization is increased.
Watching both of these interesting spectacles for their many attempts, we noticed one of the male’s brothers lying in wait…hoping for a chance at the female if she tired of his sibling.
Moving on, we spied many other animals that we had yet to see during our trek…a lone jackal, a pair of nocturnal bat-eared foxes returning to their den for a days rest and finally…wildebeests. Thousands of blue wildebeests roamed the crater floor, grazing in the early morning light.
Personally, I love the wildebeests for their unique appearance. Nicknamed “Spare Parts”, it’s easy to see why as they look like they were made from so many other animals! Their forequarters look like they come from an ox, their hindquarters from an antelope and their mane and tail from a horse.
Driving along the countless trails that span the crater floor, a female lion was spotted alongside the road. A few 4x4s stopped to admire her reserved beauty as she lounged in the heat of the new day. Soon, tiring of her grassy spot, she stood and ambled over to the road, making her way between two of the safari vehicles. Laziness prevailed and she quickly decided that the middle of the road was much better than her previous spot. Too bad for those trying to make their way!
Continuing on, we passed another pride of lions while continuing over a hill admiring the many zebras making their way in a line along the ridge. As we crested the hill, before us stood a most beautiful oasis!
Truly, my breath was taken away as we looked out at the clouds wrapping their misty fingers over the crater’s rim and the reflections within a pond lying before us, only broken by the occasional movement of the many hippo lounging within.
As we pulled up to the pond, preparing to have our breakfast here, I stepped out of our safari vehicle to stretch my legs and to make my way to the restroom facilities. A huge splash and a loud grunt, however, caught my attention. Mesmerized, I watched an extremely large hippo lunge through the pond toward another, bellowing loudly. The next few minutes were filled with two hippos berating each other, whipping their tales and splashing wildly while engaging the other in a sinister altercation.
Knowing that many deaths are attributed to hippos each year did not deter me from venturing closer and closer to the lake in an attempt to catch this exhibition on camera, so fascinating as it was! It was the most exciting thing we had seen thus far!
Soon, the hippos tired of each other and moved on to meld with the other hippos wading in the shallows of the basin.
Enjoying our breakfast, we marveled at our surroundings, basking in its endless beauty. I couldn’t stop watching the clouds rolling over the top of the crater, the succession of zebras that continued to make their way over the hill behind us and to the rear of the lake and the hippos that continued to laze in the murky waters. Honestly, I don’t know if I have ever been in a more beautiful place!
Our morning meal completed, we reluctantly moved on, migrating with the other vehicles along the dusty crater roads. Flightless male ostriches flaunted their pink necks and plumage and my favorite feathered creature in the crater, the Secretary Bird, made itself known throughout our journey.
Our next stop was at another hippo pool. This one and its surroundings, however, were filled with so much activity, we were unsure where to focus our attention. In the pool, hippos lounged lazily, occasionally flipping over to flash their undersides and countless birds waded in the shallows and lingered along the banks. Ranks of zebras, head to tail, made their way along the rear of the pool and in the distance we spotted something amazing…a pride of lions guarding their kill!
Lazing in the mid-morning sun after their filling meal, they allowed the occasional hyena and jackal to enjoy the remnants of the slaughtered Cape Buffalo. Meanwhile, a herd of Cape Buffalo, possibly the relations of the deceased, moved closer and closer to the pride, finally coming to a standoff. The herd, wanting to pass, stared the pride down until finally backing away and taking another path to the watering hole avoiding the many hyena and jackal roaming the area.
Reluctantly departing this array of activity, we found ourselves at a rest stop. Taking a small break, we walked around the area, enjoying the foliage and eyeing an elephant roaming among the trees.
As usual, our safari vehicle was the last to leave the area, but as we pulled away from the rest stop, my husband noticed movement in another cluster of trees. An enormous elephant moved out from the brush, exposing the largest set of tusks that we had ever seen. Estimated by our guide to be about sixty years old, he stayed near the tree line. As another vehicle pulled up to speak to our driver, we watched the old guy move away from the trees and slowly amble toward us. His gait was slow and tired but we soon noticed him picking up speed, realizing he was heading right for us! And…Fahad was not paying attention! “Fahad! Fahad!” We weren’t sure what was going to happen and we all ducked into the vehicle just as the senior mammoth reached us and bumped the back of our 4×4! As quickly as he came, he ambled away…”his fifth leg” swinging and obviously please with himself. Pulses beating rapidly, we drove away and allowed him to enjoy the rest of his day while we explored the Lerai Forest, home to the tall, slim yellow barked acacia trees.
The remainder of the day was filled with monkeys, zebras, wildebeests, ostriches, gazelles and a fun pair of warthogs, covered in mud and hellbent on using a rock to give themselves a good scratching!
The day was drawing to a close and as we traveled toward home, one more thing presented itself to us. A lion relaxed on one of the small culvert walls adjacent to the road. So close was he to our vehicle that I could have reached out and given him a pat. Now, I would have had a great story to tell, I’m sure, but probably would have left an appendage or two behind.
As we drove out of Ngorongoro Crater, it was hard to believe the spectacles we had witnessed. I had thought it would be hard to beat the Serengeti, but the crater had offered up its own predators, beasts and fowl. Cruising the crater floor was truly one of the most amazing parts of our safari thus far. Though we were saying goodbye at this point, we headed back to our lodge, knowing we would say our final goodbyes looking out over the crater. The famous Ngorongoro sunset would be our ultimate adieu.
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Ngorongoro Crater
- http://www.ngorongorocrater.org/
- Gates and barriers open at 0600 and close at 1800, except for the Seneto Descent Gate, which close at 1600 hours.
- ALL VISITORS TO NGORONGORO CRATER MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A LICENSED GUIDE.
- Keep to authorized roads and tracks. No off-road driving.
- Speed limits 25km/hour
- Only vehicles equipped with standard safaris equipment allowed in the Crater (heavy-duty jack; chain/rope; shovel/hoe; axe/panga)
- No more than 5 vehicles around an animal or kill
Ngorongoro Crater
While we waited for the others in our party to arrive, we mingled with the women as they decorated us with their beautiful, beaded collars. They sang songs and smiled at us while the men, practiced their dance moves. Soon, the others safari vehicles pulled under the acacia tree and our friends joined us for the show.
While the women provided the music, one of the men used the Greater Kudu, or horn and the other men formed lines, moving together and chanting rhythmically, “Oooooh-yah” with a growl and staccato cough. They thrust and withdrew their bodies, some jumping.
Eventually, we were gathered around two of the male villagers who proceeded to demonstrate how the Maasai make fire. With a bit of a breeze, conditions weren’t right and they were unsuccessful after two lengthy attempts. Clapping for their efforts, we then moved on to other parts of their village.
The schoolhouse was nearby and as we glanced into the small hut, the young children sang a song for us, recited their ABC’s and we inspected their lessons written on their chalkboard. Handing over the small gifts we had brought (pens, pencils and paper) to the schoolmaster, we were thanked profusely by everyone.
Exiting the huts, we saw many women and children who had not performed during our arrival, peeking out curiously at us. Shyly, they remained in the doorways of their huts where they could dart back in if a camera was raised.
