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Three o’clock and thirsty.
There was still plenty of daylight and most attractions in Cuba did not close for a little while. I needed a plan of action that might include a frosty beverage!
Grabbing a seat on a rustic bench, I took a second to regroup.
Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio near the Revolution Museum caught my eye. I had just been near there and it meant a little backtracking, but there were many restaurants just around the corner and it would be nice to have a seat and something to drink.
Though the church was not open, I discovered that it sat on a pretty, yet tiny, colonial square, Plazuela de Santo Ángel. A lovely bronze statue of a woman holding court in front of the church captured my attention. She was dressed in vintage attire, holding a fan and appeared to have just left the church and was going to do her business in Old Havana.
Although there is a placard on the church wall which tells visitors about this woman, Cecilia Valdes, I had to wait until later to decipher who she was as it was written in Spanish. What I later learned was that this woman is the title heroine of a popular 19th century book which had a scene set at this location. The book has inspired operas, literary reiterations and a feature film and has been considered one of the most important novels detailing life in 19th century Cuba. You can also take note of the bust on the nearby wall of Cirilo Villaverde, the Cuban poet, novelist, journalist and freedom fighter. He is known especially for one great literary piece of work. Yes…the novel, Cecilia Valdes!
As I made my way away from the square, I was intrigued with the area. There were captivating outdoor cafes, fun souvenir shops and colorful fans hanging above the street. It was a beautiful afternoon and it was nice to take a seat under one of the large umbrellas and enjoy a refreshing cerveza!
Once again, I continued my explorations and there was a great detail to take in; small, beautifully crafted tiles on buildings, artists putting the finishing touches on their masterpieces, bits of grafitti, a statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and city wall ruins in the Parque Cespedes La Maestranza and the Police Headquarters situated in a old fortress, were just a few of the treasures that I encountered along the way.
Music playing in the distance caught my ear and I followed the tune. Finding myself in the Plaza de la Catedral, a known locale of countless street performers, I stared up at the profound Havana Cathedral, also known as the Catedral de San Cristobal. One of the eleven cathedrals on the island, it serves as the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese. Built between 1748 and 1777, it was consecrated in 1782.
The Baroque architectural style is quite commanding as you stand before the cathedral in the plaza and if your eye is quite discerning, you may notice that the two bell towers are of unequal size and height. Approaching the facade, I noticed that there were fossilized marine fauna and flora in the stone, quickly realizing that the Cathedral is constructed from coral. It is quite beautiful and I could not wait to see what its interior held, especially knowing that it was designed by Italian architect Francesco Borromini.
The interior is decorated in the neoclassical style and has a central nave, two side aisles, eight side chapels and is in the form of a Latin cross. Though my initial impression of the interior was that it was stunning, with its palatial columns and soaring vaulted ceilings, I realized that it was more of an understated beauty. I have seen my share of opulent religious building throughout the world and this one was not of that class. It was, however, welcoming and offered many sculptures, paintings and frescoes throughout its interior. Some of these paintings and frescoes are by masters Peter Paul Rubens and Bartolome Esteban Murillo. Other standouts are a statue of Apolinar Serrano, Spanish bishop of Havana, who is buried in the Cathedral, a sculpture of Saint Christopher, the Patron Saint of Havana, three fading frescoes by Giuseppe Perovani above the altar, a canvas of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, Patroness of the Cathedral, and on the altar, sculptures and goldsmith works made in Rome during the first half of the 19th century.
The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Christopher and between 1796 and 1898, the remains of Christopher Columbus were kept in the Altar of the Gospel before being taken to the Seville Cathedral in Spain after the Cuban War of Independence.
Finding the side door open, I ventured out and discovered access to the right belltower. I suspected that someone is usually stationed at the entrance to collect an admittance fee, however, no one was present. Making my way up each level of the campanile, I had bird’s eye views of each of the mighty carillons as well as panoramas of the plaza below and even a view across the river of the Christ of Havana. A small gate was unlocked and I discovered that it led onto a portion of the roof. Since there was no one to tell me that I was not allowed and no signs, I ventured to the area and was rewarded with close glimpses of the tiled roof and the spectacular flying buttresses.
After my visit to the Cathedral was complete, I headed back out into the Plaza de la Catedral. Musicians were performing at the El Patio restaurant and locals and visitors were dancing in the square. There were gaily dressed Cuban women, seated at tables and telling fortunes and a general sense of celebration. Walking down the Empedrado, I witnessed many artists along the thoroughfare and older women holding tight between their teeth, one of the things Cuba is known for. It seems that they have learned that tourists love the photo opportunity to pose with a cigar smoking old lady! Here, I also found La Bodeguita del Medio, the famous bar which lays claim to being the birthplace of the Mojito cocktail, prepared in the establishment since its opening in 1942. Though I would have loved to go inside, the line was fairly long and I really would have preferred to come back in the evening for a proper drink.
Cutting back across the Plaza de la Catedral, my next destination was the Plaza de Armas, Havana’s oldest square. Originally known as Plaza de Iglesia for a church that stood on the site, it was developed in the 1520s. Its current name was adopted in the late 16th century, when the governor used the site to conduct military exercises.
Today, the square is centered with a marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and bounded by some important buildings which include the 18th century Palacio de Los Condes de Santovenia (now known as the Hotel Santa Isabel), El Templete, the Public Library, the Museum of Natural History, the Palacio del Segundo Cabo, the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales and the Castillo de la Real Fuerza.
Hoping to be able to visit the Castillo de la Real Fuerza before closing time, I raced around the property to find the entrance. Luckily, I was allowed inside and began my exploration of the oldest Spanish stone fortress in the Western Hemisphere.
Constructed between 1555 and 1577, to safeguard against pirate attacks, it later became the official residence of the Governor of Havana and served as Cuba’s National Archive and National Library. After the Revolution, it housed government offices and a museum of arms. Today, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, serves as a Museum of Ceramics and a Maritime Museum.
After making my way through the lower level and discovering the maritime artifacts located there, I ventured to the second level which houses the bulk of the Maritime Museum and includes the Naval Model-Making Salon and the Underwater Archeology Warehouse. The most spectacular part of the second level, however, is the watchtower which was added in 1634 and is now a symbol of the city. This watchtower is adorned with a bronze statuette, a replica of La Giraldilla of the Seville Cathedral and is used as a weather vane. Though I originally had no knowledge of this watchtower, it was the ladies keeping watch over the museum salons who wanted me to see what made the castle special, that unlocked the door and let me out on the balcony to see it up close!
Upon my departure from the castle, I headed back to the Plaza de Armas. As I entered the gates of El Templete, I was taken aback by the neoclassical architecture, not very common in Havana. The small Greco-Roman temple with Doric columns, dates back to 1827, and was erected in the place where it was believed that the Villa de San Cristobal de la Habana was founded in 1519. Though the workers were in the process of closing the premises for the day, they allowed me to take a quick peek to see the three valuable paintings by French painter Juan Bautista Vermey, which depict the first mass, the first council and the blessing of the Templete on its inauguration.
Inside the courtyard, you can spy the Column of Cajigal which honors the Spanish governor in charge of its construction, an image of the Virgin of Pilar, patroness of Spanish sailors (atop the column), and a marble bust of Governor Don Hernando de Soto, the first governor of the town of San Cristobal de La Habana. The ceiba tree, a sacred symbol in various religions, is one of many that has stood on the site. The latest has existed since 1960 and on November 16, residents come to the tree after midnight, circle it three times and throw a coin to its roots and make a wish.
Crossing the plaza, I stepped into the courtyard of the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales, the former offical residence of the governors of Havana. Dating back to the late 1700’s, it is home to the Museum of the City of Havana and houses exhibitions of art and historical artifacts. Though I would have loved to see the interior and its original colonial decor, the palace was closing for the day.
Though I was disappointed in not having had the opportunity to visit the palace, I stepped back into the street, which I discovered was paved with wooden blocks. This was the first time I had ever seen this and believe me, it was pretty cool!
Walking past the plaza, I made my way past the Mezquita Addallah and Parque Guayasamin toward the beautiful Old Town Square. Though there are many squares and plazas throughout the city, this one was my favorite. Laid out in 1559, this square offers buildings in many different architectural styles, as well as a fountain and unique sculpture. It was here that I finally encountered the Town Dogs.
I learned about the Town Dogs during my tour that morning but even though I had kept a keen eye out, I had not encountered any of them. The Town Dogs are designated as such by the mayor, protected and cared for by the city, each being vaccinated and sterilized. They wear a tag bearing their names and addresses and are free to roam on their own. Lounging on the steps of the Camera Obscura, I found Nina and P. Oblivious to the fact that I was excited to see them, neither were extremely cooperative about giving me a photogenic look…probably because they also had had a long day and were as tired as I was!
Spying a restaurant balcony with seating across the square, I made a beeline in that general direction. The Don Eduardo Alegre Bar and Restaurant was the perfect way to relax and enjoy the amazing view below, the perfect place to enjoy a cold beer and the perfect way to end my day!
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Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio
- Address: Calle Compostela y Cuarteles Loma del Ángel, Havana Cuba
- Hours: 0700-1900, daily
- Admission: free
Catedral de San Cristobal
- Address: Calle Empedrado 156 , La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba
- Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday 1030-1200, Sunday Mass at 0900.
- Admission: free. Tower access, $1 CUC ($1 US)
Castello de la Real Fuerza
- Address: Plaza de Armas e/Calle O’Reilly y Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
- Hours: 0830-1830, daily
- Admission: $1 CUC ($1 US)