All Around Antigua

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Early to bed and early to rise…

Well, that was me, who basically slept through the earthquake the night before.

I was well rested and ready for our first big day in Antigua…my son, not so much! The earthquake rattled him in more ways than one!

Enjoying a delicious breakfast at our hotel, we then grabbed the necessities and headed out into Antigua’s streets ready to discover everything else there was about this beautiful city.

Our first destination was Cerro de la Cruz (Cross on the Hill). The proprietor of our hotel had shown us pictures and insisted we visit in the morning when the crowds are not as plentiful and the skies are usually clear.

Heading to the other side of town and the road that leads to the overlook, I decided that it would be fun (and less tiresome) to hire a tuk-tuk to take us up the steep drive. Though the tuk-tuk sometimes strained under the precipitous road conditions, we soon pulled into the parking area. Although the driver wanted to wait for us, we sent him on his way as we had already decided to make the hike down after our visit.

The hill provides sweeping views of the city and the magnificent volcano towering over it. In 1930, the famous cross, devoted to the city’s patron saint, was installed on the hill, first created from wood, then later, converted to stone. It is a place where most tourists come to enjoy the views and see the city’s famous landmarks, from above, that they have seen from eye-level. With the city’s grid pattern, it is easy to spot the central Plaza Mayor and make your way around, spotting the Iglesia Merced, the Santa Catalina Arch and many other of Antigua’s monuments amongst the red tiled roofs.

There were a great many vendors selling drinks, snacks and handcrafted items. It was a given that I had to try the shaved ice, something I have loved since I was a child. This one, however, was a bit different from any I have had in the past. After adding the ice to the cup, instead of the usual syrup-y juice usually used, a thick fruit juice was poured in with actual fruit. She then added condensed milk (my fave!) to top it all off! So delicious! It was such a treat to enjoy this local favorite while enjoying the amazing view!

Soon, we decided to hit the trail. Winding downward through the forest, we made our way back down to 1A Avenida. It was startling to see random ruins shadowing everyday life…even a basketball court where teenagers practiced their techniques.

Continuing on our way, we passed colorful buildings, fruit merchants, building decorated for Holy Week, places of business, different modes of transportation and interesting doorways leading to beautiful courtyards. Yes, I was a bit of a voyeur, always peeking in!

Arriving at the gate of the Santuario San Francisco el Grande, we found a hub of activity. Locals selling fruits and nuts lined the wall outside the compound and many vendors filled tents along the inner wall selling candles, handicrafts, clothing and other woven items. Food vendors filled the courtyard and the delicious aroma of typical Guatemalan food filled the air.

Making our way toward the front of the church, it was difficult not to be impressed with its impressive facade. Twisted columns made their way up to the top of the church and carved niches were filled with statues of saints and friars, including the Virgin Mary, San Diego de Alcalá, San Antonio de Padua, San Juan Capistrano, Santa Clara, Santiago, and Santa Isabel from Hungary. The bell and clock towers from the 17th and 19th centuries still remain on the left side of the building, but the right side still exhibits extensive damage from past earthquakes, lending to its mystique.

Since it was Holy Week, many locals entered with us to pray and pay their respects to Santo Hermano Pedro, whose shrine is located within the church. Inside the main part of the church, we found an amazing sight…a long, brightly colored carpet lined with fruits and vegetables, headed by a display depicting a cross-carrying Christ. Unlike anything we had ever seen, we jostled with the crowds to gain a better view of this spectacle.

We learned later that this church is held in very high regard within the city and is used as the starting point of the Calle los Pasos (Steps Street) which holds the Station of the Cross. At three o’clock on Fridays during Lent, with men participating, the statue of Jesus Nazareno is carried on their shoulders from Santuario San Francisco el Grande, stopping at each of the stations and traveling one thousand three hundred and twenty-two steps…exactly the amount Jesus traveled from the praetorian palace to the mount of El Calvario. Women make the same trek on Thursdays during Lent at five o’clock and penance and mass is celebrated after both rituals.

Making our way to the side of the church, we found the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro (Brother Peter) or Peter of Saint Joseph Betancur, a missionary of Spanish origin who resided in Guatemala. He was beatified in 1980, canonized in 2002 and enshrined at the church. Known as the St. Francis of Assisi of the Americas, he was the founder of the Order of Our Lady of Bethlehem and devoted his life to visiting hospitals, jails and assisting the unemployed and the young. In 1658, he established a hospital for the poor and later a shelter for the poor, a school of the poor, an oratory and an inn for priests. Many miracles have been attributed to Santo Hermano Pedro and a large number of devoted were spied praying to his tomb asking for intercessions.

Walking out of the church, we made our way through the gardens, admiring the shrines, statues, fountains and murals that adorn the area.

Before departing this fascinating religious site, we just stood on the steps for a while and took a look over the entire area. Evident that Holy Week plays such an important part in the lives, the Guatemalans were in a festive spirit and it was a great moment to enjoy their traditional clothing and positive energy.

Heading toward the center of town, we finally went to inspect the Santa Catalina Arch during the daytime hours. Just down the street from La Fonda, where we had dined the night before, we had seen it from afar, lighted as it is during the darkened hours. Today, we wanted to see it lit by the sun. Truly spectacular both ways, it is evident by the throngs of tourists that come here during their visits to take their picture in front of or under the bright yellow span.

One of the most photographed landmarks in the city, it was built in the 17th century and connected the Santa Catalina convent to a school, allowing the cloistered nuns to pass from one building to the other out of public view. During the 1830’s, its beautiful, colonial-era, clock was added to the top, giving it the look that we see today.

Once our photographs were completed, we headed down Avenida Norte, through the arch to our next point of interest, Iglesia de La Merced.

As we approached the beautiful, yellow and white church, we made our way through the festive booths set up for Holy Week, with offerings much like we had seen at Santuario San Francisco el Grande. Unlike Santuario San Francisco el Grande, however, Iglesia de La Merced appears to be unaffected by earthquakes and has a fascinating architectural history.

When the Mercedarians set out to establish the first convent for men in Ciudad Vieja, their plans were short lived. The convent was wiped out before the construction was complete when a mudslide from the nearby Agua Volcano wiped out the city. The city was relocated to what is now known as Antigua and permission was granted in 1541 for a second church to be built. Forty two years later, the church was finally completed, only to be destroyed by earthquakes. In 1749, architect Juan de Dios Estrada, studied the design failures of the previous architects and set out to adapt traditional baroque designs to survive the instability of the region. Lowering the ceilings, adding thick walls and thicker buttresses made this third church more earthquake resistant and despite the massive earthquake of 1773 (and subsequent earthquakes), the church has remained standing, mostly unaffected.

The facade, flanked by two bell towers, was captivating with its unique stucco work with its Moorish influenced arabesque patterns. Images of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Mercy and other prominent Mercedarians such as St. Pedro Armengol, St. Maria de Cervello and St. Raymundo Nonnatus reside in niches between the elaborately decorated columns and at the top of the church, Pedro Nolasco, the founder of the Order of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Mercy keeps watch on the square below.

At the time of our arrival, the church was not open to visitors and there was much hubbub on the premises as both children and adults entered the convent area, readying themselves for the evening’s Holy Week processions. The convent was open for visitation, however, and we decided that we should not miss out.

Paying our admission, we entered the remains of the convent, making our way to the center where the a large fountain can be admired from both the lower and upper levels. The fountain was designed in the shape of a water lily, a traditional symbol of power for the Mayan people and is said to be the largest in Hispanic America. It is believed that the Mercedarian monks used this fountain to raise fish to supplement their diet.

As we made our way around the courtyard, we took note of the children dressed in the Sunday finest, taking pictures, obviously excited for the upcoming festivities. All around the courtyard, the components of the procession could be spied, ready and waiting for the events to begin.

Making our way up to the top part of the convent, we were amazed at the incredible 360 degree views. All of the nearby volcanoes could be spied, as well as closer views of the bell towers and the city surrounding the church.

Heading eastward from La Merced, our next destination was Santa Teresa de Jesus, a church and convent built between 1677 and 1678 by architect José de Porres for the Discalced Carmelite nuns. As with many of the other religious sites in Antigua, the earthquake of 1717, caused considerable damage to the structure and the earthquake of 1773 resulted in the domes of the convent to collapse.

The Renaissance-styled facade of the church faces Calle Oriente, however, the entrance to the convent, is located around the corner on Alameda Santa Rosa.

A small-scale fountain filled the main courtyard and there were small rooms exhibiting models of the church and convent as it once was and stone carvings rescued from the ruined structures. What we found interesting, when we headed upstairs, however, was that in the United States, if a building was in this condition and had no guard railings and open walls and windows, the building would be considered condemned. Here, you are welcomed in and allowed to walk around at your leisure, inspecting every corner and space. Thankful for this, we took complete advantage and enjoyed our explorations of the convent, discovering that after the destruction from the earthquake, it was abandoned and then occupied by poor families, used as a wine distillery, a place to dry coffee beans and then used as a jail from the 1940’s until 2007.

As the day was coming to a close, we walked by the Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen. The market is adjacent to the old church ruins of El Carmen. Though the ravaged church is not open to visitors, we were able to duck into the market and purchase a few souvenirs.

The last landmark on our itinerary for the day was the Iglesia y Convento de Capuchinas (Church and Convent of the Capuchins), one of the most visited sites in Antigua.

Las Capuchinas, as it is simply known by the locals, is also the nickname of the founding religious order. After the arrival of the Clarissine nuns in Guatemala, they were given approval for construction of the complex from King Phillip V in 1725 with the commencement in 1731. A short five years later, the structure, built in the Renaissance style by architect Diego de Porres, was completed and was the last women’s convent founded in the city.

Today, the convent operates as a tourist attraction and often, a popular wedding venue. As we walked through the main courtyard, we noticed a young girl, bedecked in a flowing gown, awaiting the beginning of her quinceanera, being held on the premises. Those fans of actors Dulé Hill and Jazmyn Symon, might also recognize the convent as the setting of their wedding in May of 2018.

We especially enjoyed the grounds of Las Capuchinas. Though the convent was considered small by comparison to others in the city, with only twenty-five nuns in residence, because of the lavish grounds, I felt as though it was quite larger than the other places we had visited.

The church was accessible to visitors and amazingly still had its roof in place. Though there was not much decoration remaining, it was an amazing space and easy to imagine what it must have looked like during its prime.

Heading to the rear of the complex, we ventured into a circular underground room which historians have speculated was used by the nuns to either store food, practice their singing or pray while walking in circles. A tour guide was present with her clients and we watched as they were instructed to stand on either side of the room and whisper to the wall. Incredibly, the other, so far away, could hear their words! Of course, we had to try!

A circular building at the rear of the property, set among the lavish greenery also caught our attention. Though its purpose was not clear, some have argued that it was designed for spiritual retreats or possibly acted as a chamber for carrying out penance. Other theories advise that it may have been an asylum for older nuns suffering from dementia or even a water storage facility. Within the small archways of this building, there are a couple of displays (complete with mannequin nuns) showing what the nun’s cells might have looked like.

Finally, we made our way back to the main courtyard and climbed to the upper level, looking down on the small fountain which was brought from the former Santa Ines church. The upper level was filled with colorful flowers and had the most serene feeling. No wonder so many choose to exchange their vows here!

As the sun dipped lower in the sky, down past the peaks of the nearby volcanoes, it was time to call it a day. We had seen so many astounding architectural monuments and there was still even more to explore.

More religious processions.

More landmarks.

More Guatemalan delicacies.

Much more Antigua!

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Cerro De La Cruz

• Address: Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
• Hours: 0800-1800, daily
• Admission: free
• Getting There: Take 1A Avenida and follow it North. At the base of the inclining hill, you will find the beginning of the hiking trail, marked by a sign welcoming you to Cerro de la Cruz. To your left will be a set of concrete stairs leading into the forest. This is the path that will lead you to the overlook. You can also hire a tuk-tuk for a couple of dollars.

Santuario San Francisco el Grande

• Address: 7a Calle Oriente, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
• Hours: 0830-1700
• Admission: free

Santa Catalina Arch

• https://visitguatemala.com/
• Address: 5a Avenida Norte, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
• Hours: 24 hours, daily
• Admission: free

Iglesia de La Merced

• Address: 1a Calle Poniente & 6a Avenida Norte, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
• Hours: 0900-1800, daily
• Admission: Church, free. Convent ruins, Nationals, Q7 (about $.90 US), Foreigners, Q15 (about $2.00 US)

Santa Teresa de Jesus

• Address: 1a.Calle Oriente, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
• Hours: 0900-1700
• Admission: Q40 (about $5.20 US)

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen

• Address: 4 Avenida Sur 7, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
• Hours: 0800-2000, daily
• Admission: free

Iglesia y Convento Capuchinas

• http://www.cnpag.com/
• Address: 2a Avenida Norte y 2a Calle Oriente esquina, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
• Hours: 0900-1600, Monday to Friday
• Admission: Nationals, Q5 (about $.65 US), Foreigners, Q40 (about $5.20 US)