Tag: noodles

Last Hurrah in Hoi An

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So much to do, so little time.

After arriving back in Hoi An and my harrowing motorbike ride from My Son, I needed a little refreshing.   A quick dip in the beautiful infinity edge pool at the Ha An Hotel dip the trick!

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imageNot quite sure what I wanted to do for the rest of the day, I grabbed a bike from the hotel and started to head back into town.  As I approached the market, instead of heading straight, I quickly made a left and crossed the bridge to Cam Nam Island.  Having no plan, I rode around the small island, enjoying the views of the river and the warm, sunny day.  There are many hotels and homestays on the island and if you want to get away from the main drag, this is a peaceful alternative.

Back on the main street of Hoi An, I rode along the waterfront and finally parked my bicycle near the Japanese Bridge.  Purchasing another ticket for Old Town, I decided to visit some of the other attractions that I had not seen on my first day.

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Walking back and forth on Nguyen Tan Hoc Street, it took me a few minutes to locate the Old House of Tan Ky as it blends into the architecture of the adjacent shops and restaurants.

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Constructed almost two centuries ago as the home of a Vietnamese merchant, the home sits between Nguyen Tan Hoc and Bach Dang Streets and combines three different types of architecture, Chinese (curved roof beams), Japanese (peaked roof) and Vietnamese (crosshatch).

imageThe interior has been preserved with the original design and furniture and contains many relics of the prospering trade and cultural exchanges between the Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese during the late 17th century.  The four rooms in the Old House of Tan Ky are rather small and were designed for different purposes;  welcoming the merchants, living, courtyard and sleeping.  All rooms can be visited except the bedroom.

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22451672869_a2d4c51f3d_bAfter leaving Tan Ky, I noticed a restaurant with a familiar name across the street, Morning Glory.  How convenient!  This was one of the restaurants that was recommended to me by a friend and one that I had planned on dining at while in Hoi An.  Speaking with the hostess, I made reservations for that evening.

Moving on, I made my way up Chau Thuong Van Street to one of the most historical buildings in Hoi An, Hoi Quan Quang Dong, the Cantonese Assembly Hall.

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Greeted by its colorful stone, three-entrance gate and four rows of stone pillars, four Chinese characters, meaning “Quant Trieu Assembly Hall” are embossed on the upper part of the gate.  The gate is decorated with images of dragons, small lions and lemon flowers.

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Built in 1885 by the Chinese, it was originally dedicated to Thien Hau Holy Mother, then to Quan Cong (Chinese general) and then to the sages who came from Guangdong.  Used by Chinese fishermen and traders as a place to rest temporarily and exchange goods, the building was constructed by Chinese Cantonese merchants with parts of the building made separately in China and transported to Vietnam.

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The Assembly Hall, very popular with tourists, displays an amazing dragon fountain made from pottery and many Cantonese statues throughout the complex.  Well kept, but small, the walls are adorned with colorful paintings of sages and deities.  Walking through the complex, make sure to not miss the rear portion, where a larger dragon fountain, garden and mural of Chinese mythology are located.

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My next stop was another old structure, built in 1850.  The Duc An House was a successful bookshop famous for selling Vietnamese and Chinese texts and works of foreign political thinkers like Rousseau and Voltaire.  The house then became a Chinese medicine dispensary in the twentieth century.  Later still, it became the center of anti-French activity.  One of the previous residents, Cao Hong Hanh was decorated by the Communist government and there are many images displayed from his revolutionary past and visits from Communist Party dignitaries.

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Though small, Duc An House, still retains its historic feel with its many antiques.  An additional bonus is that the owner, Phan Ngoc Tram, a direct descendant of the founding family, does not allow souvenirs to be sold within the structure, a common practice in some of the other historical houses in Hoi An.

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Relinquishing another of my Old Town tickets to cross the Japanese bridge, since I did not feel like walking the long way around, I made my way to the other side to the Phung Hung Old House.

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1-phung-hung-old-house-hoi-anGreeted in the front room by one of the guides, I was escorted to the next room where I was seated in the two story room and given a history of the building. Built over 100 years ago, during Hoi An’s prosperous times, the dark structure is one of the most beautiful forms of architecture in Hoi An.  Named by the first owner, a Vietnamese businessman, a seller of cinnamon, pepper, salt, silk, ceramics and glass, it stands for the saying “Business expectation is always thriving”.

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 The house combines three architecture styles, Vietnamese (grillage systems, crossbeams, spars, facade roof and backside), Chinese (balcony and door system) and Japanese (nave roof).  It has a high wooden attic and wide corridors.

At the rear of the bottom floor, the guide showed me many samples of embroidery produced here.  You can purchase brightly colored tablecloths and napkins before ascending the stairs to the top floor.  The upper floor contains many antiques and relics.  Take a moment to step out onto the balcony for a unique view of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street and the adjacent Japanese Bridge.

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As my day was drawing to a close, I made my way back to the Ha An Hotel.  After preparing for dinner, I then retraced my steps to Old Town, sitting for a while at one of the many establishments facing the river to enjoy a cold Larue beer and the passing scenery.

Arriving at Morning Glory for my reservation, I was seated quickly.  The restaurant was filled with patrons, the staff quite busy running from table to table and the chefs at work in the open kitchen in the middle of the restaurant.

The menu was mind boggling as everything sounded quite delicious and the smells coming from all around me were divine.  Asking for advice from my server, I finally decided on Roll-It Barbecued Pork with Rice Paper as an appetizer and the My Quang Noodles with Seafood.  The food was fabulous and not very expensive..about ten dollars, including my drink.

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Making my way onto the lantern-lit street, I took a look around me at the beauty of Hoi An.  Never did I expect to love a place so much as this.  It encompassed everything that I find fascinating;  architecture, history, culture, the beach, photographic opportunities.  Why had I never heard of this magnificent place before?  Now I had the secret.  I would be departing in the morning for Hue, another historical city, but leaving my heart here.

Hoi An…I will be back.

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Old House of Tan Ky

Hoi Quan Quang Dong (Cantonese Assembly Hall)

Duc An House

Phung Hung House

  • Address:  4 Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai, Cẩm Phô, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
  • Hours:  0830-1700
  • Admission:  included with the Old Town ticket

Morning Glory