The Beginning of the End

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

My last day.

All of the planning, the travels and endless sightseeing was coming to an end here in Ho Chi Minh City.

Later in the evening, I would be leaving Ho Chi Minh City and Vietnam for the long trip home.  Ho Chi Minh City to Singapore.  Singapore to Narita, Japan. Narita to Minneapolis. Minneapolis to New York.  New York to Richmond. Whew! It was going to be an exhausting trip, so knowing I was going to be out sightseeing all day, in the oppressive heat, I was concerned about being able to freshen up before heading to the airport.  After contemplating making a move in the morning to a cheaper hotel or hostel, I explained my plight to the attendant at the front desk of the Lan Lan Hotel.  Though they had not been all too friendly since I had arrived, I think she took pity on me.  Offered a half-day’s rate with a departure of 6:00 in the evening meant that I could leave everything in my room and take a shower before my departure.

Since my hotel dilemma was no longer a problem, I was able to set out early and see what the city had to offer.

imageThe Mariamman Hindu Temple was only a couple of blocks away and was my first destination.  A very colorful and interesting place, filled with vibrant deity sculptures, it serves the small community of Chinese and Vietnamese Tamil Hindus living in the city.  This temple is rumored to have miraculous powers giving luck and wealth to those who worship within its walls and was filled with the devout as I walked through its doors.

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imageBuilt at the end of the 19th century, the building features a royal tower at the entrance which stands twelve meters high.  To the left of the entrance sits the Gods and Goddesses, Shiva, Kali, Brahma and Vishnu and at an altar in the center of the temple is a statue of the Goddess Mariamman.

This was my first visit to a Hindu temple and I enjoyed visiting something very different than I had ever experienced.  My favorite part, however, were the little ladies, fascinated with my make-up, who all wanted to take pictures with me.

imageLeaving the Hindu temple, I noticed a pagoda on my map a few blocks away. The Xá Lợi Pagoda, the largest pagoda in Ho Chi Minh City, was built in 1956 and was the headquarters of Buddhism in South Vietnam.  Best known for being raided and vandalized by the Army of the Republic of Vietnam Special Forces in 1963, it did not appear to be open and was not as lavish and ornate as some of the others I had seen on my journey, although it is known to have the highest bell tower in Vietnam.  The grounds on which it sat left a lot to be desired, leaving me a bit disappointed that I had walked out of my way, unnecessarily, to visit.  Snapping a few pictures, I then decided to make the long walk to the Jade Emperor Pagoda.

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imageOne of the five most important shrines in Ho Chi Minh City, Jade Emperor Pagoda, also known as the Tortoise Pagoda, was built in 1909 in honor of the supreme Taoist god, the Jade Emperor or King of Heaven, Ngoc Hoang.

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imageWhen entering the temple, the first thing you notice is how dimly lit and smoky the atmosphere is as a great amount of incense is being burned to honor the gods.  That being said, the main hall is very intriguing showcasing surrealistic divinities.  Filled with exquisite woodcarvings, the main sanctuary features the Emperor Jade Chua Hoang (the God of the Heavens) flanked by his guardians, the Four Big Diamonds (aptly named because they are said to be as hard as diamonds) and menacing Taoist figures made of reinforced paper mache.

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imageMany locals visit the shrine, making offerings of flowers, lighting candles and joss sticks and the limited space in the temple can feel a little cramped.  When departing the temple, stop by the small pond filled with turtles and check out the shells that have been inscribed with auspicious inscriptions.

Saigon Central City Post Office was my next stop, and no, I did not have to mail a letter!

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The Saigon Central Post Office is one of the most renowned examples of architecture in Ho Chi Minh City and is a must see for any visitor.  Designed by Gustave Eiffel, more commonly known for designing the Statue of Liberty and the Eiffel Tower, it is recognized as the grandest post office in all of Southeast Asia.

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imageConstructed between 1886 and 1891, the colonial ochre-colored facade is enhanced by arched windows, green wooden shutters and a beautiful clock which still works to this day.  Inscribed on the facade are the names and faces of those responsible for the timepiece invention, including President of the United States, Benjamin Franklin, Italian inventor Alessandro Volta, British physicist Michael Faraday, French mathematician Andre-Marie Ampere and many others.  There are also inscriptions dedicated to those responsible for discoveries and advances in the field of electricity.

imageThe gasp-worthy interior will, at first, remind you of a train station, which was indeed, Eiffel’s inspiration.  Glancing upward, you will notice the high, looping arches and the spectacular dome of gilded capitals resting on green metal pillars.  The intricately designed marble floors are representative of antique maps and the dark wood telephone booths that line the front of the building on each side, are reminders of the role the post office played before email and mobile phones were commonplace.  Two maps of the region, which show telegraph lines that crisscross Vietnam and Cambodia and the Saigon region in 1992 are painted on the walls overhead.  So beautiful and so French inspired, it is easy to forget where you really are.  Don’t worry, the large portrait of Ho Chi Minh hangs high above everything at the far end of the building, reminding you that you are still in Vietnam.

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In addition to being a fascinating glimpse into history, the Saigon Central Post Office is a fully functioning post office.  Take the time to send a postcard to your family and friends using the old fashioned glue pots still in use for sticking stamps to letters.  After sending off your missive, you can even do a little souvenir shopping in the two wings at the front of the building which sell everything from t-shirts and hats, to statues and books.

imageMy next stop was not far…just across the street.  The Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica was a place that I very much wanted to visit.  As I was leaving the Post Office and glancing at the clock, however, I noticed that it was half past noon.  Verifying the opening time at Notre Dame’s entrance, I realized that I had just missed the morning hours and it would be two and a half more until it reopened.  If I were to come back, I would have to be here exactly for the reopening.  It would be tight.  Just in case that I did not make it, I decided to take some pictures of the exterior and move on a few blocks to the Reunification Palace.

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Formerly known as the Independence Palace, this landmark served as a presidential home and workplace and remains in the locals’ minds as a marked end to the war, when a North Vietnamese tank crashed its gates on April 30, 1975.

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imageThe building has an open, modern feel and its functional rooms remind one of the many meetings and conferences that took place here.  On the premises, however, you can view the F5E fighter plane which bombed the palace on April 8, 1975 and the tank which destroyed the palace gate.

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The Palace, taking up so much more time than I had planned, left me a little confused as what to do next.  I was halfway between the Street Food Market, which was where I had planned to have lunch and Notre Dame Basilica.  It wasn’t time for the churches reopening, yet I was starving.  Deciding to have lunch and hope that I would have enough time to cover the distance back to the church, I headed toward the Street Food Market.  After my lunch and analyzing the time, I deciding that I was hot and tired and really needed to purchase some souvenirs at the Ben Thanh Market.  Unfortunately, Notre Dame was not meant to be.

Thankfully, it was a productive trip to the Ben Thanh Market where I managed to find some items that had eluded me during the trip.

Finally, it was back to my room and time to pack up for my departure.  My suitcase was bursting, but I somehow managed to get everything into it and myself dressed and ready to go.  Feeling fresh and revived, I made my way downstairs and decided to try using Uber, since a friend had reminded me as to how cheap it was in Ho Chi Minh City.

Now, I have to tell you.  My luck with Uber has not been good in the past.  Determined to make it work for me, I used the app and waited for my vehicle.  Watching each of the cars that slowed near my hotel, I began thinking that this particular brand of car was not familiar to me.  Slowly, I began to wonder…  Yes, I realized that I had screwed up again.  Not realizing that Moto X was indeed motorcycle transportation, not an actual car, this is what pulled in to pick me up.  At this point, all I could do was laugh.  This was a crazy end to my trip.

Somehow, with my purse on my shoulder, hat hanging from his handlebars, putting my tote between his legs and my suitcase between us, we were on our way.  Feeling a few raindrops and holding on for dear life, I prayed that I made it to my flight unscathed and dry, though feeling the pollution sink into my pores, from the copious amounts of traffic, I realized that I would not be feeling as fresh as I had been just before my motorcycle journey.

Nevertheless, two hours later as I was boarding my flight and laughing at the absurdity of the beginning of the end of my long journey home, I only wished that I could have had a picture.  Truly, had I become almost Vietnamese, traversing the streets on a motorbike with my luggage?  Not quite…but it was a fitting end to the crazy adventure that I had sought out on my own.  One that I will never forget.

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Mariamman Hindu Temple

  • Address:  45 Trương Định, Bến Thành, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
  • Hours:  0700-1900, daily.
  • Admission:  free
  • Dress conservatively and remove shoes before entering.

Xá Lợi Pagoda

  • http://www.chuaxaloi.vn/
  • Address:  89B Bà Huyện Thanh Quan, 7th Ward, Quận 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
  • Hours:  0700-1900, daily.
  • Admission:  free

Jade Emperor Pagoda

  • Address:  73 Mai Thi Luu St., Dakao Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
  • Hours:  0700-1700, daily
  • Admission:  free

Saigon Central Post Office

  • http://hcmpost.vn/Main1/Default.aspx
  • Address:  2 Công xã Paris, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
  • Hours:  0700-1900
  • Admission:  free

Notre Dame Cathedral

  • https://giothanhle.net/gio-le/nha-tho-duc-ba-sai-gon
  • Address:  1, Công xã Paris, Bến Nghé, District 1, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam
  • Opening Hours:  0800-110 and 1500-1730, Monday through Saturday
  • Mass Hours:  Sunday, 0530, 0630, 0730, 0930, 1600, 1715, 1830
  • Admission:  free

Reunification Palace (Independence Palace)

  • http://www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn/
  • Address:  135 Nam Kỳ Khởi Nghĩa, Bến Thành, Quận 1, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam
  • Hours:  0800-1100, 1300-1730
  • Admission:  20,000 Vietnamese Dong (about USD .90)

Lan Lan Hotel

Touring the Tombs

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved

Group tours?  No, I don’t usually care for them…but, to see the Royal Tombs located outside of Hue, it was going to be a necessity.

Collected early after a plentiful breakfast, I was transported to the riverfront, not far from my hotel.  When I had booked my tour the day before, I had not realized that we would be traveling by dragon boat on the Perfume River.  Score!  I had seen these boats in the river the day before and thought they were fascinating, so despite my distaste for group tours, I was suddenly very exciting for having booked one.

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After setting out on the river, the scenery was interesting…many fishermen and other boat traffic…and before long, we were sidling up to the riverbank.  Walking across the roadway, we entered the grounds of the An Hien Garden House.

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The An Hien Garden House, built in 1885, is one of many in the city that were built for mandarins and royal relatives.

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imageAfter entering the premises and walking down the pathway lined with apricot trees, we encountered a wall.  It was interesting to note that this wall was placed here to keep evil spirits away as they can only travel in straight lines.  If, by some chance, the spirit was able to navigate around the wall, they would encounter the reflecting pond directly in front of the house.  Since spirits do not have a reflection, this was the second line of defense for the house.

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imageThe garden house, was designed in the traditional Vietnamese style, in an almost total square with an area of about 135 meters.  We were able to take a seat, have tea and enjoy the beautiful woodwork and the family altar which is its centerpiece.  There are also many precious relics of the Nguyen dynasty, including four horizontal lacquered boards with the words, “Van Vo Trung Hieu” (literature, military, loyal and pious), gifted by King Bao Dai in 1937, hanging in the middle room.  Looking out of the open doors that line the front of the house onto the reflecting pond and the multitude of colorful, fragrant flowers, your feeling is one of peace.

imageOur next stop, after re-boarding our dragon boat, was one that I was familiar with, Thien Mu Pagoda.  One thing different from the day before, however, was that our guide gave us much information on the history of the pagoda and pointed out many items of interest, including the pavilion to the right of the tower which contains a stele (1715) set on the back of a massive marble turtle and the precious antiques in the main hall…bronze gong (cast in 1677) and wooden gilded boards with Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu’s inscriptions (1714).  Another unusual item is an Austin car in which, monk Thich Quang Duc was driven to his death in Saigon in 1963.

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imageAfter our guide’s speech was complete, I decided that I would walk around the property and rephotograph everything since the day was much brighter than the previous one.  After revisiting the main hall, I walked around the back of the structure and much to my surprise, realized that there was so much more to see.  With the rainfall the day before and my haste to meet my driver in time, I must have not realized that the grounds extended far beyond.  So…maybe coming back on the tour was not such a bad thing!

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imageWe boarded the boat again and were served a nice lunch while continuing our cruise.  Our next destination was a small, old pagoda, although I never caught the name.  A rather quaint place, built onto the steep rocky banks of the Perfume, it was an interesting stop and had some very old relics inside of the temple.

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After crossing the river, it was time to say goodbye to our dragon boat.  Boarding a tour bus, we then made our way to what I had most wanted to see, the Royal Tombs.

imageThe first tomb on our tour was Minh Mang, about 12 kilometers from Hue. Construction on the tomb began in September 1840, however, only four months into the project, Minh Mang became sick and passed away.  His successor to the throne, Emperor Thieu Tri, continued construction and Minh Mang’s corpse was buried in Buu Thanh in August of 1841.  The tomb was completed in 1843.

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The complex consists of forty palaces, temples and pavilions and the entrance is through the main gate, Dai Hong Mon, which was opened only once to bring the Emperor’s coffin to the tomb.  Visitors now use the two side gates, Ta Hong Mon and Huu Hong Mon.

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Behind the main gate is the Honor Courtyard which houses the two rows of mandarins, elephants and horse statues.

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imageMoving along into the temple area, we found the Salutation Court, however, rain decided to hamper our progress as the skies opened up.  We ducked in to the Sung An Temple after passing through the Hien Duc Mon gate.  This temple is where the Emperor and Queen Ta Thien Nhan are worshiped and is flanked by Ta, Huu Phoi Dien (Left, Right Temples) in the front and Ta, Huu Tung Phong (Left, Right Rooms) in the back.

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Continuing on through the Hoang Trach Mon gate, we encountered the Bright Pavilion.  Behind this pavilion are two flower gardens which lead to the tomb area and the crescent lake.  Thirty three steps are ascended to reach the sepulcher of the Emperor.

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Leaving Minh Mang, we then headed to the Royal Tomb of Khải Định and from the very moment I set my eyes on this place, I was enthralled.  Looking up at the steep steps leading up to the building, the sense is one of grandeur and it took my breath away.  I couldn’t climb the steps fast enough to see what lay at the top.

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The twelfth king of the Nguyen dynasty, Emperor Khải Định came to power in 1916 and was very closely tied to the French government.  Because of this, he was very unpopular with the Vietnamese people.

The last king to commence construction of his own tomb, work began in 1920 with the conclusion in 1931 by his successor, Bảo Đại,.  Because he was so influenced by the French, his desire was to have a tomb influenced by their architectural styles.

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imageOne thing to notice when visiting Khải Định’s tomb is that it is much smaller than the tombs of his predecessors, however, undeniably more elaborate.  The rectangular structure of the tomb leans against Chau Chu Mountain and is flanked by the largest sculptures of dragons in all of Vietnam.  The tomb features an imperial audience court and twelve stone statues representing bodyguards.  The interior boasts intricately designed glass and porcelain decorations on the walls and the ceiling is decorated with nine complex dragons.  The rear room of the palace houses a temple containing the Emperor’s grave, an altar dedicated to him and a statue of his likeness, created in Marseilles.

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imageOur next stop was a roadside village where locals make sandalwood and cinnamon incense and traditional Hue conical hats.  Colorful stalks of incense are bunched together, hanging on the walls, displayed in bins and some pieces are lit leaving a pleasant aroma in the air.  Local women demonstrate the process for making the incense which is used in temples throughout Vietnam.

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Eight kilometers from Hue, Tu Doc, was the final tomb that we were to visit that day.  Encompassing the largest surface area, it is divided into two main parts, the temple area and the tomb area.  Fifty constructions were built on terraces of various levels and all contain the word Khiem (Modesty) in their names.  Construction started in 1864 and was completed in 1867.

imageAfter passing through the main gate, you notice to your right, the beautiful landscape and Luu Khiem lake.   Located on the lake are Xung Khiem and Du Khiem Pavilions where the Emperor would frequent to admire flowers, compose poems and read books.  We could hear music floating across the lake and noticed that a cultural performance was taking place.  No time to stop, we continued on to the Hoa Khiem Palace (the Emperor’s working place) which is now the altar devoted to the Emperor and the Queen.  Flanking both sides of the Palace are Phap Khiem House and Le Khiem House which were for the military and civil mandarins.

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imageTo the rear of Hoa Khiem Palace is Luong Khiem Palace (the Emperor’s resting place), which was later used to worship the Emperor’s mother.  The the left of the Palace is the Minh Khiem theater and Chi Khiem, the altar to worship the Emperor’s wives and Tri Khiem and Y Khiem Palaces, which were the accommodations of the Emperor’s concubines.

Continuing on, we encountered the tomb area.  The necropolis is to the left of the temple and behind the Honor Courtyard, are two rows of magnificent military and civil mandarins.  On the hill, opposite the Tieu Khiem Tri lake is the Buu Thanh brick wall.  In the middle is a stone house where the Emperor is buried.

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Definitely the most peaceful and picturesque of all the Royal tombs, I wished that I had had more time to wander and explore all that there was to offer.

Boarding the bus for the last time, we made our way back to the center of Hue.  Most certainly a long day, it was worth seeing all that there was to offer in the former national capital.

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Tours
  • Various tours can be booked through hotels and travel agencings encompassing all of the things that I experienced.  My particular tour was booked through my hotel, 220,000 Vietnamese Dong and included lunch (drink and other food items not included) and transportation (pickup, boat, bus).  Admission to the An Hien Garden House, Pagoda, and Royal Tombs was not included.  Consider purchasing combination tickets which include the Imperial Palace (Citadel) and 3 or 4 Tombs.

An Hien Garden House

  • Address:  68 Nguyen Phuc Nguyen, Hue, Vietnam
  • Hours:  0800-1700, daily
  • Admission:  20,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $1.00)
  • How To Get There:  Taxi, xe om (motorbike taxi) or included with some tours.  It is located about 7 minutes from the Hue Railway Station and 37 minutes from Phu Bai International Airport.

Thien Mu Pagoda

The Royal Tomb of Minh Mang

The Royal Tomb of Khải Định

The Royal Tomb of Tu Doc

Getting High On the Way to Hue

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved

The first time I ever heard of the city of Hue was during the planning stages of my trip to Vietnam.  My friend sent me a text with a picture and right then, I knew I had to make time in my schedule to travel there.

Taking the bus from Hoi An would have been a cheaper option (about $5), however, there were a few things that I wanted to see along the way as well as arrive in Hue with enough time to see the Citadel during the afternoon.

Hiring a driver on my own was a little cheaper than booking through my hotel. Ironing out the details through email, I agreed to a driver that spoke enough English to communicate effectively, but not act as a tour guide. I also informed the car company that I wanted to stop at the Marble Mountains, China Beach, Hai Van Pass and Lang Co Beach.

After my last, amazing breakfast and a final look around the Ha An Hotel, I met my driver at the front gate. Expecting a long ride, I settled into my seat and watched Hoi An disappear behind me. About a half an hour later, I noticed the driver turning off of the main highway. A few minutes later, he pulled up to the curb, came around the car and opened up my door, “Madam, Marble Mountain”. Taken off guard, I hadn’t expected to be there that soon. Grabbing my bag, I jumped out of the car and headed up the steep steps to the ticket booth. Paying my entry fee and purchasing a map, I climbed more stairs, not quite knowing what to expect.

The Marble Mountains are a cluster of five hills made from limestone and marble and named for the elements; metal, wood, water, fire and earth. The area that these mountains lay in is known for stone cutting and sculpture. A much visited spiritual site, Water Mountain houses numerous paths leading to a host of Buddhist sanctuaries, temples and places of worship, some in caves.

imageMaking my way up the steep, marble stairs (I later learned later that an elevator was available), I turned a corner and to my utmost surprise was a beautiful garden with a large dragon statue and many small Buddhas. To the right, was a large, white seated Buddha. Standing next to the Buddha, looking out from the mountain, were views of the beaches and the coastline.

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Through an entrance gate and located on the eastern side of Water Mountain, was the Linh Ung Pagoda. Constructed during the Nguyen Dynasty, it contains representations of the three Buddhas; The Buddha of the Past (Amitabha), Buddha of the Present (Sakyamuni) and Buddha of the Future (Maitreya). The pagoda has been designated a national historical and cultural site by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism.

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To the right of the pagoda is Vong Hai Dai, the sea-viewing pavilion, which offers an amazing view of Non Nuoc Beach and behind the pagoda is Tang Chon Cave, which has a impressive standing Buddha and Chua Linh Ung Temple. Also in this area is the Xa Loi Tower, a 15 meter tower, built of stone, overlooking the coast.

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Climbing the mountain further, I encountered Am Phu and Van Thong Caves.

After entering Van Thong Cave, known for its huge statue of Buddha, I found the ascent to be extremely steep and I decided to head on to Am Phu.

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Am Phu, meaning “hell” in Vietnamese was opened to tourists in 2006. The natural rock formations, stalactites and dark tunnels are enhanced with terrifying figures and altars designed by local artists. Not for the faint of heart, visitors can confess their sins and repent at the temple shrine.

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imageFurther on Water Mountain, upon entering the Hoa Nghiem Cave you are greeted by a large lady Buddha statue, the goddess of mercy. Descending twenty steps, you enter Huyen Khong Cave which contains various Buddist and Confucian shrines. Opposite the entrance is a large Buddha, carved by the famous craftsman, Nguyen Chat in 1960. Below the statue is the altar of “Dia Tang Vuong Bo Tat” (the most powerful Buddha in hell) and to the left, the shrine of “Ngoc Phi” (the goddess of wealth) and on the right, the shrine of “Loi Phi” (the goddess of Mountain and forests).

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Not only having spiritual value, the cave also has great historical value. When Vietnam was at war with the French, the cave was used as a secret base for local communist leaders and guerrillas. Later, during the Vietnam War, the American military used it as a commando training area and a garrison of the Old South Government and American units.

imageAlthough I was given an hour, it was definitely not enough time to see all that there was to offer. Skipping Linh Nham Cave, I stopped to inspect the Tam Thai Pagoda. Looking out to the west, the pagoda was built in the 17th century and has three stories; Thuong Thai, Trung Tai and Ha Thai. Most interesting to check out is the old, mossy entrance gate. Pho Dong Tower, Tu Lam Pagoda and Vong Giang Dai (river view pavilion) are adjacent to the Tam Thai Pagoda. Amazing views of the Truong Giang and Cam Le rivers can be seen from Vong Giang Dai.

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imageimageMaking my way from Tam Thai pagoda, I soon found myself heading down the mountain, only, not to the eastern gate. I had moved downhill toward the Tam Ton pagoda. Although I was happy to have seen this tall, beautiful pagoda, time was up and I was needed back at my car to continue our journey. Asking a couple of workers in the area to direct me the right way, they pointed in a general direction and said, “That way.” Seeing no path, I asked again, Pointing toward a field, I walked that way, still seeing no path. Looking upward, I realized that I did not have the time or energy to make my way up toward the Tam Thai pagoda and back down to the eastern gate. Again, I asked another worker and was shown what to do. Now why didn’t I think to climb a small hill of slabs of marble and trudge through a field of weeds where some poisonous snake or rabid animal was surely hiding and waiting to strike?

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imageTime was a ticking…so I climbed and ran like the wind through the field. Arriving at the main road, I looked to the mountain to get my bearings and made my way back to where I believed my driver was waiting…and thankfully, I found him!

imageSoon we were on our way, once again, towards Danang. My driver pulled over so that I could take some snapshots of My Khe Beach. This twenty mile stretch of white sandy beach was used by the American troops during the Vietnam War. Nicknamed China Beach, it is considered to be one of Vietnam’s most picturesque beaches.

imageCrossing Danang’s Dragon Bridge over the River Han, we continued into the mountains. The dark clouds that had been threatening all day, soon opened up and offered a light rain. Climbing higher into the mountains, the clouds settled around us and the views of the coast below us became obscured.

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imageBefore long, I noticed the traffic growing heavier both forward and aft of us. Pulling into a tight space between two tour buses, I realized that we were not just at a rest stop. My driver didn’t really communicate with me as to where we were and I glanced around, a little confused. Clouds were low and whipping by making it hard to see the area, but I noticed other tourists crossing the street. Following suite, I climbed the stairs and stood among the many visitors taking pictures in the foggy atmosphere of the ancient Tran Dynasty’s Hai Van Gate, wartime gun towers and French built fort that was later used as a bunker during the Vietnam War.

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Crossing a spur of the Annamite Range, Hai Van Pass is an approximately 21 km long mountain pass on National Route 1A near Bach Ma National Park.  The name Hai Van refers to the mists that rise from the sea, reducing visibility, and that’s just what we had today.  Snapping a few pictures, I could only imagine what it would look like here on a clear day.

We continued on the twisting road, the rain hampering our progress.  Closing my eyes, I rested while we drove on.  Soon, my driver pulled over again, and informed me that we were looking down on Lang Co Beach.  Since it was still drizzly, I quickly snapped a few photos, thinking that it would be a nice place to visit at another time.

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Jumping back into the car, I checked my watch and noted that we had made better time than I had expected.  Knowing that Lang Co Beach was not far from Hue, I anticipated another half hour’s journey.

As we left the mountains and rice paddies, I began to see more buildings and businesses.  Checking the map on my phone, I realized that we were entering the city of Hue. A few minutes later, we were pulling onto Chu Van An Street and in front of the Orchid Hotel, my base of operations for the next day.  Excitedly, I gathered my belongings and headed inside, ready to begin my exploration of Hue.

 

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The Marble Mountains

  • Address: Hòa Hải, Ngũ Hành Sơn, Da Nang, Vietnam
    Hours: 0700-1700
  • Admission: 15,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $ .67)
  • Map:  Admission: 15,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $ .67)
  • Elevator: 30,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $1.30)
  • Getting There: Bus #1 stops in front of the Marble Mountains and covers the journey from Danang to Hoi An. Catch the bus from the bus station in Danang (Dien Bien Phu no. 33) or from the Hoi An bus station (Le Hong Phong Street junction with Nguyen Tat Thanh). 20,000 Vietnamese Dong (less than US $1). The bus takes 15 minutes from Danang and 40 minutes from Hoi An. Taxi from Danang costs approximately 50,000 Vietnamese Dong. From Hoi An, approximately 200,000 Vietnamese Dong.

marble_mountains_map

 

My Son…My Way

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Last year, Angkor Wat.  This year, My Son.

Always having been a dream of mine to visit Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world, I was finally afforded the opportunity last year.  Having seen the “City of Temples” constructed during the 12th century, I thought that it was one of the oldest in that part of Asia.

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While cruising the waters of the Thu Bon river with Mr. Seo, he asked me if I had planned to visit the ruins of My Son.  Did I misunderstand him…there were ruins near Hoi An?

Seo, offered a plan.  He could take me to My Son the next day on the back of his motorbike…about an hour’s ride outside of Hoi An towards the mountainous region.  After quoting a price, he waited for an answer.  Although I was really interested in these ruins, I knew nothing about them nor did I know what the going rate was.  And…on a motorbike?  With a guy I hardly knew?  I needed to think on this one.  I would text him later.

As I lounged at the beach that afternoon, I surfed the internet for information about My Son. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, the ruins are located about 45 kilometers from Hoi An and were built between the 4th and 14th centuries, making them older than Angkor Wat.  I found tours ranging from $16-$40 per person and group sizes ranging from five persons to busloads.  Seo had quoted a price of $35 and we would leave extremely early to avoid the crowds and traffic which would allow me the rest of the day to spend exploring the parts of Hoi An that I had not yet seen.  Not sure if I was making the right decision, I texted Seo and negotiated a lower price.  We agreed on the terms and I planned for my early departure the next day.

imageSeo arrived right on time at 7:15 a.m. and we were on our way, me sitting behind him.  It was a long, sometimes scary and sometimes thrilling ride and I was starting to feeling the effects on my lower back when I saw the first signs for My Son.  Seo parked his motorbike and we crossed the tall bridge to the ticket counter.  After paying my entrance fee, we boarded the tram for the winding trip around the mountain to My Son’s grounds.

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Extremely hot, even for nine in the morning, I made my way, sweating profusely, toward the main buildings in the middle of the site. My first impression was that of peacefulness.  There were hardly any tourists on the grounds and I had the crumbling buildings all to myself. The temples had beautifully intricate details that were lost to the eye at first glance, however, came to life the more they were studied.  The area was green and fertile and provided a beautiful backdrop  for the structures.  Needless to say, my camera was put to very good use.

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imageSurrounded by high mountains and situated in the heart of a beautiful valley, these buildings were originally built from wood but were destroyed by fire in the 6th century.  During the 7th century, they were rebuilt with bricks and by the 13th century, more than 70 similar buildings had been built.  A sanctuary of Hinduism, the buildings of the complex were used to worship and make offerings to the Hindu gods.

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Many of the buildings’ entrances were open to enter and some displayed statues and other artwork.  There are four separate areas that were open to visitors and all were connected by paved pathways.

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After finishing my walk through all areas of the complex and noticing that more tourists were present, I made my way to the Arts Pavilion where Aspara dancers were performing.  Beautifully choreographed, it was a nice end to my visit at My Son.

imageRejoining Seo, he and I made our way toward the tram, marveling at the number of tourists arriving and traveling down the wooded path.  After the long ride on the back of Seo’s motorbike, I wondered if I had made the right decision.  Had I paid too much?  Maybe I did for a motorbike tour, but watching the busloads of tourists arriving, made me remember how much I dislike tour groups.  The fact that we were able to set our own schedule and arrive earlier than everyone else was worth the price.  I had been able to capture beautifully, unobstructed pictures of the site and well before the hottest temperatures of the day.

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As the wind blew around me on our return trip, I was happy that I had done My Son…my way.

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My Son 

  • Admission:  150,000 Vietnamese dong (about US $7.00)
  • Hours:  0600-1700
  • Motorbike parking:  10,000 Vietnamese dong (about US $.45)

my-son-map-1

 

Hello Hoi An!

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Ever been in a taxi and wondering if your taxi driver actually knows where he is taking you?  Many people can say, “Yes, of course!”

It was quite early when I said goodbye to the Tu Linh Hotel and headed back to Noi Bai International Airport.  I was excited to start the next chapter of my Vietnam travels and my destination was Hoi An.

Turning out of the Old Quarter, I rested my head on my seat and watched the heavy morning traffic outside my window.  Suddenly, the taxi driver turned to me and asked a question in Vietnamese.  He lifted a paper and pointed to the words Noi Bai International Airport.  Guessing that he was asking me if that was where we were going, I was a little perplexed as I knew the hotel had given him instructions to take me to the airport.  After a few more exchanges, I realized that he was asking me if I was traveling international or domestic and I stated Da Nang.  Realizing that he still was confused, it dawned on me that maybe there were two airports.  Oh no!  What if he takes me to the wrong one?

A call to the Tu Linh Hotel finally straightened things out.  He only wanted to make sure that I was going to the domestic terminal and soon deposited me there safely.

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Soaring through the skies on Jetstar Airways, I arrived a short time later into Da Nang International Airport.  Thankfully, my driver was waiting for me this time…front and center…and after a rather uneventful drive, we were arriving in Hoi An.

“The cutest hotel I have ever stayed at in the entire world”.  This was how my friend had described the Ha An Hotel.  Coming from a flight attendant, that is the highest of praise and I knew that there was no other place to stay!  Well, he was right!  Truly one of the most charming places I have ever seen, I was elated that I had taken his advice. I was ushered to the restaurant where I was served fresh fruit and a frosty drink.  The receptionist, sat with me, going over the hotel’s amenities and then informed me that my room was ready.

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img_9322Walking into my room, I was flabbergasted!  I had been upgraded to one of the rooms opening onto the lush courtyard.  My room was spacious and extremely well appointed with a large comfortable-looking bed.  The bathroom had an open shower with river rock and a marble counter.  Wow! Wow! Wow!  The thought that ran through my head at that moment was that I was going stay here forever!  Oh, well…at least for another couple of nights!

Opening my plantation doors, I peered out into the courtyard.  There was a pool table just outside my door and an infinity edge swimming pool in the far corner.  The area was beautifully landscaped and the entire hotel complex’s appearance had the feel of an old Caribbean plantation.

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As much as I wanted to languish in this exquisiteness, I was anxious to explore the town.  Following my map, I headed out of my hotel’s gates and headed toward the Old Town.

Hoi An’s Old Town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 and is a well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port as would have been experienced during the 15th to 19th centuries.  There are 1,107 original timber frame buildings and the center of town is restricted to pedestrians, motorcycles and bicycles.

imageAn entrance ticket is actually required to enter the Old Town, however, the ticket is rarely checked except when entering one of the buildings or points of interest that it is required for.  It took a few minutes to locate one of the ticket booths, but I soon had a ticket in hand and was anxious to explore the many historic landmarks.

The ticket is valid for 24 hours and allows (with tear-off coupons) entrance to five attractions.  Trying to decipher which of the attractions I was going to visit first, was a bit of a task and I decided to start with the closest.

imageRight around the corner, on Tran Phu Street, was the To Do Tham Quan Pagoda.  Entering through the brick front entrance arch, I noticed the Chinese characters that represent the deity to whom the temple is dedicated on each side of the doorway.  The central courtyard contained a censer and the temple displayed many Chinese offerings of fruit, cookies and incense near the gold leafed altar.  There were many interesting statues and carvings (some protected by glass) and the space was lighted by many large lanterns. The best part about this interesting pagoda was that I didn’t have to use one of my Old Town tickets…it was free to visit.

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imageWithout having to check my map, I moved on to the nearby Minh Huong Communal House, with its bright yellow entrance arch, also on Tran Phu and included in the list of the historical attractions with ticket access.  Minh Huong was built by Chinese settlers in the late 18th century to worship their ancestors who had founded the Minh Huong village.  Deities worshiped here are Thien Hau Holy Mother, the God of Earth and the God of Fortune.  Every year, seasonal worship rituals and celebrations dedicated to Minh Huong ancestors are held here in the spring and fall.

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img_8392Further down the street, was the Confucian Ong Pagoda, also known as the Quan Cong Temple.  Located on a street corner near the central market, the 17th century pagoda was easy to find and included in the list of historical attractions, thus requiring a ticket.  Dedicated to “Quan Thanh De Quan” (Quan Cong), it was built in 1653 to honor the Chinese general, a prominent figure in the three kingdom era of China.  The interior was very ornate and included two huge wooden statues near the altar which should be inspected…one is the the idol of the protector of Quan Cong and the other is the adopted son of the protector.  The small front hall contains an altar dedicated to Quan Cong’s guards and is flanked by ritual weapons and objects used for processions.img_8399

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Rounding the corner, on my way to the Hoi An Museum, I spotted Chua Ba and dashed inside for some pictures.  Containing some some small altars and a courtyard, it was nice for a quick visit.

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img_8515Moving on, I headed to the Hoi An Museum.  Anxious to learn about the history of Hoi An, I was a bit dismayed to find that some information was not translated into English.  The space has some interesting relics, including bells, a boat and artillery however, it did not feel very welcoming or well displayed.  The museum also does not have air conditioning and it was extremely difficult to move throughout the space without searching for a fan to cool off.  The admission was included in the Old Town ticket, however, it is one that I would skip on a future visit.

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img_8524In search of the Japanese Covered Bridge, I came upon the Thong Bao Temple.  With free admission, I decided to take a few minutes to inspect the premises.  When entering, I was greeted by a large open courtyard with a multitude of statues on the right side of the property.  A sign at the entrance, gives many instructions, including standing three meters away from these statues, not pointing at the statues or crossing your arms behind your back when standing in front of the statues.  The main building is a large impressive structure with beautiful tile work and ornate columns.  If in the area, this temple is certainly worth a look.

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img_5963Back to my mission, I headed down Nhi Trung Street towards the Japanese Covered Bridge, the most famous tourist destination and the official symbol of Hoi An.  There were many visitors both near and on the bridge.  The structure was built in the early seventeenth century by the community of Hoi An to create a link with the Chinese quarters across the stream and is a beautiful and unique example of the Japanese architecture of the period.  The bridge was constructed with a roof for protection from the sun and rain and contains three Chinese characters above the door, “Lai Ven Kieu” which means “Bridge for passengers by from Afar”.  The two sculptures at one end of the bridge, dog and monkey, are sacred symbols in the Japanese cultures.  After paying with my admission ticket, I only expected to use the bridge to cross to the other side.  Inside, however, I found a small temple which is dedicated to the northern God, Tran Vo Bac De, the God of Weather.  Later, I was informed that crossing the bridge was free, and you only had to pay with an admission ticket if intending to visit the temple, however, attendants were stationed at the entrance of the bridge and demanded a ticket upon entry.

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imageAfter crossing the Japanese Covered Bridge, I continued on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and reached the Cam Pho Communal House.  It was nearing the end of the day and there were no other visitors as I entered.  Greeted with a bright yellow entrance arch and tall yellow vases and an altar in the central courtyard, I found it to be very similar to the Minh Huong Communal House, including a vestibule, left hall, right hall and main hall.  What I loved most were the ridge and gable ornamentation.

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img_8150After leaving Cam Pho Communal House, I proceeded to walk to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and make my way toward the waterfront.  Walking along the far side of the Thu Bon river, I marveled at the many sculptures, choices of restaurants and hotels and the boats being paddled by local women along the river.  Crossing the Hoi An Bridge, and scanning the many restaurants here along the waterfront that were just starting to light up, I realized that my stomach was starting to rumble.  Time for dinner!
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img_7564img_7566After freshening up and enjoying a beer on my patio, I realized that with all of the activities I had packed into the day, I was extremely tired.  Deciding to look for something close to my hotel, I happened upon the White Lotus.  After a delicious meal of seafood filled won tons and shrimp and yellow noodles, I discovered that this delectable restaurant not only serves wonderful food, but it also a non-profit helping those less fortunate.  Owned by Project Indochina, an Australian non government aid organization, the profits made by White Lotus are used to fund aid programs that improve of the quality of life of disadvantaged children, their families and communities in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.
 Making my way back across the street to my hotel, I was happy (as were my feet) that I did not have to travel very far.  Ready for sleep, I settled in, not sure what the next day would bring.  No plans…I was ready for anything…for my second day in Hoi An.
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Jetstar Airways
  • http://www.jetstar.com/us/en/home

Ha An Hotel

 Hoi An Old Town
  • https://www.travelfish.org/sight_profile/vietnam/central_vietnam/quang_nam/hoi_an/729
  • Admission ticket:  120,000 Vietnamese dong (about US $6.00)
  • The full list of sights included on the ticket is:
    Old houses: Tan Ky; Duc An; Quan Thang; Phung Hung;
    Assembly halls: Quang Trieu; Trieu Chau; Phuc Kien;
    Structures: Japanese Covered Bridge;
    Museums: Museum of Trade Ceramics; Museum of Sa Huynh Culture; Museum of Folk Culture; Museum of Hoi An;
    Traditional arts: Handicraft workshop; traditional music performance;
    Communal houses: Cam Pho; Minh Huong; Quan Cong Temple;
To Do Tham Quan Pagoda
  • Address:  Tran Phu, Hoi An, Vietnam
  • Admission:  free
  • Open daily, all year long
Minh Huong Communal House

Quan Cong Temple (Ong Pagoda)

Chua Ba Temple

  • Admission:  free
  • Open daily, all year long

Hoi An Museum

  • https://hoianheritage.net/
  • Address:  10B Trần Hưng Đạo, Sơn Phong, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
  • Admission:  included with the Old Town ticket
  • Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

Thong Bao Temple

  • Address:  Nhi Trung Street
  • Admission:  free
  • Open daily, all year long

Japanese Covered Bridge

Cam Pho Communal House

  • Address:  Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An, Vietnam
  • Admission:  included with the Old Town ticket
  • Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

White Lotus Restaurant

Hanoi, Having a Look…

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Three forty-five a.m.  My eyes pop wide open.

Having been to Asia before, it was no surprise to wake up this early.  It had happened quite frequently when I was in Thailand a couple of years ago.  The trick was to make use of my time…update Facebook, edit pictures, write blog posts, call home.

The Ha Long Bay cruise, was still weighing heavily on my mind.  Still not sure what to do, I called a friend who had done Ha Long Bay as a day trip and asked her for her opinion.  She assured me that since there was so much that I wanted to do and see in Hanoi, I would definitely benefit from doing a day trip and that I would not miss out on anything.  Yes, it would be a day trip (albeit a long, tiring one) and it would be a much cheaper option, helping to resolve that deficit I was now in thanks to my expensive visa!

Feeling good about my decision, I finally dressed for the day and headed downstairs for breakfast.  After some fruit, sticky rice and an omelet, I enlisted the front desk’s help to finalize my booking for my Ha Long Bay trip the next day.   Finally, it was all set.

Glad to have the Ha Long Bay dilemma resolved, I gathered my belongings, marched out of the hotel into the congested streets and made my way toward the western part of the city.  My plan was to venture northwest of the Old Quarter and begin my exploration at the Ho Tay or West Lake.

imageMaking my way westward along a street behind my hotel, I still marveled at the hoards of motorbikes passing by and admired the locals making deals on their daily produce.  Soon, I came to a few stalls that contained piles of some sort of grilled animal.  Behind two of these, I noticed women wielding cleavers and cutting the animals into pieces.  After taking a closer look, I stopped in my tracks.  Were these dogs?  Already attracting negative attention as a foreigner with a camera swinging freely around her neck, I didn’t dare lift it to take a picture.   I stopped in my tracks, pretended to search for something in my bag, while trying to get a better look.  A few negative glances deterred my curiosity, so I walked across the street to another stall with a lady who did not appear so menacing.  As sweetly as I could, I inquired as to what kind of animal it was.  Not as welcoming as I thought, she proceeded to yell at me to go away, further making me think that these were indeed dogs.

Stock photo.

I am sure that I am not the first westerner to walk down this street early in the morning and witness this ritual and I am sure that there have been many animal rights activists willing to give the Vietnamese people a piece of their mind.   I decided to keep walking or possibly find myself in a situation that I was not willing to welcome, however, I did find out later that dog is still considered a delicacy in Vietnam.  Typically, Vietnamese eat dog meat at the end of the lunar month to get rid of bad luck.  Dog is also the go-to dish for drinking parties, family reunions and special occasions.  It is said to increase a man’s virility and help provide medicinal cures.  Although I vowed at that moment to avoid beef, lest I be served something I was not comfortable with, I was also told that because it is more costly than beef, chances of that happening were extremely rare.  Still, I decided that I would be consuming chicken, pork and seafood during my stay.

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After my early morning shock and struggling to put it out of my mind, I continued my walk along the streets covered with beautiful old trees and lush greenery.  I marveled at the monuments, buildings and churches that I passed and soon, I arrived at my first destination, the Quán Thánh Temple.

imageThe Quán Thánh Temple, formerly known as the Trấn Vũ Temple, is a Taoist temple dating back to the 11th century.  One of the four Sacred Temples of the capital, it is a leading tourist attraction in the city.  Known for its principle gate and giant banyan tree shading the large yard, it is one of the oldest temples in Hanoi.  The shrine contains a famous bronze statue of Trấn Vũ, Deity of the North in Taoism, and in the courtyard, a brick oven which people use to burn fake money believing it will be sent to their ancestors.  Finding it very peaceful,  I enjoyed my walk around its gardens.

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Leaving Quán Thánh, I headed north along Thanh Nién Road which crosses between Ho Tay (West Lake) and Truc Bach Lake.  Many may know Truc Bach Lake as the location in which Senator and former presidential candidate, John McCain, landed during the Vietnam War after being shot down.

imageTrấn Quốc Pagoda lies just off of Thanh Nién Road on a small island near the southeastern shore of Ho Tay and is the oldest Buddhist temple in Hanoi, constructed in the sixth century.  A favorite sightseeing location of kings and lords of Vietnam, it lured these nobles because of its tranquility, serenity and stunning scenery.

imageWalking along the palm tree lined bridge connecting the pagoda’s island to the mainland,  the view of the red pagoda against the green water of Ho Tay is spectacular. The front yellow gates are impressive with its massive wooden doors.  Immediately to the left of the entrance, is one of the main parts of the Trấn Quốc Temple as it holds important monk’s ashes of whom have resided at the Trấn Quốc Pagoda for centuries.  The monumental stupa, red in color, which symbolizes luck and prosperity and visible from afar, was erected in 1998 and is comprised of 11 floors each displaying a vaulted window holding a statue of Amitabha made from gemstone. The top of the stupa offers a nine-story lotus, also from gemstone.

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The Trấn Quốc is also known for its priceless antiques, dating back hundreds of years.  The worshiping statues in the front house are meticulously engraved and polished by skillful craftsmen.  The most outstanding of the bunch is “Thích ca thập niết bàn”, which has been assessed as the most beautiful statue of Vietnam.

If you can visit this remarkable pagoda at the end of the day, it is renowned for its sunset views.

After my visit to the Trấn Quốc Pagoda was complete, I made my way back from the way I had come, passing the Quán Thánh Temple and headed toward the Presidential Palace.

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imageThe Presidential Palace, built between 1900-1906 for the French Governor-General of Indochina by August Henri Vildieu, incorporates Italian Renaissance design and lush landscaping throughout the premises.  Although you cannot enter the actual palace, currently used for government meetings, you can see it from a relatively close distance.  There are many other items of interest on the grounds including a traditional Vietnamese house on stilts, the house where President Ho Chi Minh lived and worked from 1954 to 1958, a garage of Ho Chi Minh’s cars and a grand carp pond.

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Leaving the Presidential Palace, I set out to visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum located nearby in Ba Dinh Square.  Although the attraction is closed from September through November each year for renovation and is the time when Ho Chi Minh’s body is sent to Russia for re-embalming, you can get a great view of the building from the area where Ho Chi Minh, Chairman of the Communist Party of Vietnam (1951-1969) read the Declaration of Independence on September 2, 1945, establishing the Democratic Republic of Vietnam.

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imageNear Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum and Ho Chi Minh’s Museum lies the One Pillar Pagoda or Chùa Một Cột.  This pagoda dates back to 1049 when Emperor Ly Thai Tong had it constructed as a way to express his gratitude to the young peasant girl he married, bearing him a son and heir.  The pagoda was built to resemble a lotus blossom and is built of wood on a single stone pillar.  The pagoda was destroyed by the French in 1954, but was rebuilt by the new government.

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Although my guide book stated that an entrance fee was required, I wandered freely through the pagoda and the adjacent area.  This location has many vendors for decently priced souvenirs, snacks and drinks and is a great place to take a break for a short time before continuing on.

My next stop in this fascinating city was the Temple of Literature.  This temple is one of many in the city dedicated to Confucius but is also the site of Vietnam’s first university, established in 1706.  I wasn’t quite sure what to expect here, but was not disappointed.

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Entering through the imposing tiered gateway I was greeted with formal gardens before reaching the Khue Van pavilion and a beautiful fish pond known as the Well of Heavenly Clarity.  The area encompassed by the temple is quite large and their are many displays of traditional Vietnamese architecture as well as a low-slung pagoda and numerous statues of Confucius and his disciples.  The temple honors Vietnam’s finest scholars and those of literary accomplishment.

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imageAs I departed from the Temple of Literature, many school girls were arriving wearing Ao Dai (traditional Vietnamese dress) hoping to take pictures in front of and around the Temple of Literature and seemingly celebrating a success (possibly graduation).  It was a sight to behold with the many colors and with their beautiful figures.

Taking a few minutes to grab some lunch at a nearby cafe, I discovered that France is not the only place to get great bread.  Though France departed Vietnam in 1954, after one hundred years of colonial rule, they left behind the expertise of unbelievable baking!  If you’ve ever had a good ham and cheese baguette in Paris, you’re sure to find one equally appetizing or better in Vietnam!

With aching feet and the clock fast approaching the five o’clock hour, I realized that my final stop in Hanoi, that day, was going to be the Thang Long Royal Citadel.

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imageAs I entered the area near the Citadel, I found that an exhibition was taking place in conjunction with the 62nd anniversary of Hanoi Liberation Day.  Walking through the grounds, there were many exhibits and colorful displays.  The tunnels on the Đoan Môn gate were blocked due the exhibition, but I was able to enter the complex through an adjacent gate.  After paying my admission, I was able to climb to the top of the gate and walk throughout the structure.  From the top, I had amazing views of the festivities below.  This gate is the remaining relic of the ancient Forbidden City.

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Walking throughout the UNESCO Heritage site (since 2010), it is easy to see why this complex is a source of great pride to the people of Hanoi and the Vietnamese people.  The grounds are lush, green and extensive, although many of the original buildings were destroyed by the French.

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15th century stone dragons can be found decorating the steps to what was once Kinh Thien Palace.  You can also visit Hau Lau (Black Tower) and Cua Bac (Northern Gate) at the back of the complex as well as the Princess Tower and the Military Operation Bunker.

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imageFrom the front of the grounds, you see the Flag Tower of Hanoi which is frequently used as a symbol of the city.  Built in 1812, during the Nguyen Dynasty, the tower, was spared from destruction during the French colonial rule as it was used as a military post.  I inquired as to visiting the tower but was told that it was not open to the public.  After my visit, however, I discovered that although most people consider it a part of the Citadel, it is actually part of the Military History Museum.  Perhaps I was told that it was not open that day or perhaps I was mistakenly told that it was not open to the public…the language barrier may have contributed to not being able to visit this landmark.

Realizing that the day was drawing to a close, I decided that it was time to head back to my little hotel room in the Old Quarter for a shower and dinner.  Exhausted, I was dreading the long walk.  After being approached by a motorcyclist and offered a ride to my hotel, I decided to take him up on his bid.  Shortly after taking my seat behind him, however, I wondered what I had gotten myself into!  Turning his motorbike around and heading into traffic until he was able to get to the street that he wanted, I wondered if he actually knew how to navigate the streets.  We continued on…many motorbikes immediately to our left and right and the occasional bus, inches from my shoulder.  He made quick work of driving back to the Old Quarter and was soon depositing me at the door of the hotel.

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After my harrowing journey, it was time to relax, have a calming drink, eat a delicious dinner and ready myself for my long day to Ha Long Bay the next morning!  Reflecting on my day’s adventures, I was amazed that I had braved the streets of Hanoi, even on the back of a motorbike, and seen so many beautiful and inspiring things, however, I realized that I had seen only half of what the city had to offer.  There was so much more still to explore.  Glad that I had decided on the one day cruise to Ha Long Bay, I was now free to explore the rest of Hanoi’s treasures on my return.

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Quán Thánh Temple

  • Address:  Ngã 3 giao cắt và, Thanh Niên, Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hanoi, Vietnam
  • Admission, 10,000 Dong (about 50 cents U.S.)
  • Opening Hours:  0500-1900

Trấn Quốc Pagoda

  • Thanh Niên, Trúc Bạch, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
  • Admission, free
  • Opening Hours:  dawn til dusk

Presidential Palace

  • http://vpctn.gov.vn/Pages/trangchu.aspx
  • Address:  No 1 Hoang Hoa Tham street (Red Gate), Ba Dinh District, Hanoi 10000, Vietnam
  • Admission:  40,000 Dong (about U.S. $1.80)
  • Opening Hours:  0700-1700

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

  • https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/ho-chi-minh-mausoleum.html
  • Address: Ba Dinh Square, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
  • Admission:  free
  • Opening Hours:  Summer Hours, 0730-1030, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 0730-1100, Saturday and Sunday.  Winter Hours, 0800-1100, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 0800-1130, Saturday and Sunday.  Closed September 4 through November 4.
  • Modest Dress required

One Pillar Pagoda (Chùa Một Cột)

Temple of Literature

  • http://vanmieu.gov.vn/
  • Address: Quoc Tu Giam Street, Hanoi, Vietnam, VN
  • Admission:  10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. 45 cents)
  • Opening Hours:  0830-1130 and 1330-1630

Thang Long Royal Citadel

  • http://www.hoangthanhthanglong.vn/
  • Address:  Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hanoi, Vietnam
  • Admission:  30,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. $1.34)
  • Opening Hours:  0830-1130 and 1400-1700

Flag Tower of Hanoi

  • https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/hanoi-flag-tower.html
  • Address:  Lê Hồng Phong, Điện Biên, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
  • Admission:  10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. 45 cents)  Admission to Military Museum, 30,000 (about U.S. $1.34)
  • Opening Hours:  0800-1130 and 1400-1600 Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, Saturday and Sunday.