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Three forty-five a.m. My eyes pop wide open.
Having been to Asia before, it was no surprise to wake up this early. It had happened quite frequently when I was in Thailand a couple of years ago. The trick was to make use of my time…update Facebook, edit pictures, write blog posts, call home.
The Ha Long Bay cruise, was still weighing heavily on my mind. Still not sure what to do, I called a friend who had done Ha Long Bay as a day trip and asked her for her opinion. She assured me that since there was so much that I wanted to do and see in Hanoi, I would definitely benefit from doing a day trip and that I would not miss out on anything. Yes, it would be a day trip (albeit a long, tiring one) and it would be a much cheaper option, helping to resolve that deficit I was now in thanks to my expensive visa!
Feeling good about my decision, I finally dressed for the day and headed downstairs for breakfast. After some fruit, sticky rice and an omelet, I enlisted the front desk’s help to finalize my booking for my Ha Long Bay trip the next day. Finally, it was all set.
Glad to have the Ha Long Bay dilemma resolved, I gathered my belongings, marched out of the hotel into the congested streets and made my way toward the western part of the city. My plan was to venture northwest of the Old Quarter and begin my exploration at the Ho Tay or West Lake.
Making my way westward along a street behind my hotel, I still marveled at the hoards of motorbikes passing by and admired the locals making deals on their daily produce. Soon, I came to a few stalls that contained piles of some sort of grilled animal. Behind two of these, I noticed women wielding cleavers and cutting the animals into pieces. After taking a closer look, I stopped in my tracks. Were these dogs? Already attracting negative attention as a foreigner with a camera swinging freely around her neck, I didn’t dare lift it to take a picture. I stopped in my tracks, pretended to search for something in my bag, while trying to get a better look. A few negative glances deterred my curiosity, so I walked across the street to another stall with a lady who did not appear so menacing. As sweetly as I could, I inquired as to what kind of animal it was. Not as welcoming as I thought, she proceeded to yell at me to go away, further making me think that these were indeed dogs.
I am sure that I am not the first westerner to walk down this street early in the morning and witness this ritual and I am sure that there have been many animal rights activists willing to give the Vietnamese people a piece of their mind. I decided to keep walking or possibly find myself in a situation that I was not willing to welcome, however, I did find out later that dog is still considered a delicacy in Vietnam. Typically, Vietnamese eat dog meat at the end of the lunar month to get rid of bad luck. Dog is also the go-to dish for drinking parties, family reunions and special occasions. It is said to increase a man’s virility and help provide medicinal cures. Although I vowed at that moment to avoid beef, lest I be served something I was not comfortable with, I was also told that because it is more costly than beef, chances of that happening were extremely rare. Still, I decided that I would be consuming chicken, pork and seafood during my stay.
After my early morning shock and struggling to put it out of my mind, I continued my walk along the streets covered with beautiful old trees and lush greenery. I marveled at the monuments, buildings and churches that I passed and soon, I arrived at my first destination, the Quán Thánh Temple.
The Quán Thánh Temple, formerly known as the Trấn Vũ Temple, is a Taoist temple dating back to the 11th century. One of the four Sacred Temples of the capital, it is a leading tourist attraction in the city. Known for its principle gate and giant banyan tree shading the large yard, it is one of the oldest temples in Hanoi. The shrine contains a famous bronze statue of Trấn Vũ, Deity of the North in Taoism, and in the courtyard, a brick oven which people use to burn fake money believing it will be sent to their ancestors. Finding it very peaceful, I enjoyed my walk around its gardens.
Leaving Quán Thánh, I headed north along Thanh Nién Road which crosses between Ho Tay (West Lake) and Truc Bach Lake. Many may know Truc Bach Lake as the location in which Senator and former presidential candidate, John McCain, landed during the Vietnam War after being shot down.
Trấn Quốc Pagoda lies just off of Thanh Nién Road on a small island near the southeastern shore of Ho Tay and is the oldest Buddhist temple in Hanoi, constructed in the sixth century. A favorite sightseeing location of kings and lords of Vietnam, it lured these nobles because of its tranquility, serenity and stunning scenery.
Walking along the palm tree lined bridge connecting the pagoda’s island to the mainland, the view of the red pagoda against the green water of Ho Tay is spectacular. The front yellow gates are impressive with its massive wooden doors. Immediately to the left of the entrance, is one of the main parts of the Trấn Quốc Temple as it holds important monk’s ashes of whom have resided at the Trấn Quốc Pagoda for centuries. The monumental stupa, red in color, which symbolizes luck and prosperity and visible from afar, was erected in 1998 and is comprised of 11 floors each displaying a vaulted window holding a statue of Amitabha made from gemstone. The top of the stupa offers a nine-story lotus, also from gemstone.
The Trấn Quốc is also known for its priceless antiques, dating back hundreds of years. The worshiping statues in the front house are meticulously engraved and polished by skillful craftsmen. The most outstanding of the bunch is “Thích ca thập niết bàn”, which has been assessed as the most beautiful statue of Vietnam.
If you can visit this remarkable pagoda at the end of the day, it is renowned for its sunset views.
After my visit to the Trấn Quốc Pagoda was complete, I made my way back from the way I had come, passing the Quán Thánh Temple and headed toward the Presidential Palace.
The Presidential Palace, built between 1900-1906 for the French Governor-General of Indochina by August Henri Vildieu, incorporates Italian Renaissance design and lush landscaping throughout the premises. Although you cannot enter the actual palace, currently used for government meetings, you can see it from a relatively close distance. There are many other items of interest on the grounds including a traditional Vietnamese house on stilts, the house where President Ho Chi Minh lived and worked from 1954 to 1958, a garage of Ho Chi Minh’s cars and a grand carp pond.
Leaving the Presidential Palace, I set out to visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum located nearby in Ba Dinh Square. Although the attraction is closed from September through November each year for renovation and is the time when Ho Chi Minh’s body is sent to Russia for re-embalming, you can get a great view of the building from the area where Ho Chi Minh, Chairman of the Communist Party of Vietnam (1951-1969) read the Declaration of Independence on September 2, 1945, establishing the Democratic Republic of Vietnam.
Near Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum and Ho Chi Minh’s Museum lies the One Pillar Pagoda or Chùa Một Cột. This pagoda dates back to 1049 when Emperor Ly Thai Tong had it constructed as a way to express his gratitude to the young peasant girl he married, bearing him a son and heir. The pagoda was built to resemble a lotus blossom and is built of wood on a single stone pillar. The pagoda was destroyed by the French in 1954, but was rebuilt by the new government.
Although my guide book stated that an entrance fee was required, I wandered freely through the pagoda and the adjacent area. This location has many vendors for decently priced souvenirs, snacks and drinks and is a great place to take a break for a short time before continuing on.
My next stop in this fascinating city was the Temple of Literature. This temple is one of many in the city dedicated to Confucius but is also the site of Vietnam’s first university, established in 1706. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect here, but was not disappointed.
Entering through the imposing tiered gateway I was greeted with formal gardens before reaching the Khue Van pavilion and a beautiful fish pond known as the Well of Heavenly Clarity. The area encompassed by the temple is quite large and their are many displays of traditional Vietnamese architecture as well as a low-slung pagoda and numerous statues of Confucius and his disciples. The temple honors Vietnam’s finest scholars and those of literary accomplishment.
As I departed from the Temple of Literature, many school girls were arriving wearing Ao Dai (traditional Vietnamese dress) hoping to take pictures in front of and around the Temple of Literature and seemingly celebrating a success (possibly graduation). It was a sight to behold with the many colors and with their beautiful figures.
Taking a few minutes to grab some lunch at a nearby cafe, I discovered that France is not the only place to get great bread. Though France departed Vietnam in 1954, after one hundred years of colonial rule, they left behind the expertise of unbelievable baking! If you’ve ever had a good ham and cheese baguette in Paris, you’re sure to find one equally appetizing or better in Vietnam!
With aching feet and the clock fast approaching the five o’clock hour, I realized that my final stop in Hanoi, that day, was going to be the Thang Long Royal Citadel.
As I entered the area near the Citadel, I found that an exhibition was taking place in conjunction with the 62nd anniversary of Hanoi Liberation Day. Walking through the grounds, there were many exhibits and colorful displays. The tunnels on the Đoan Môn gate were blocked due the exhibition, but I was able to enter the complex through an adjacent gate. After paying my admission, I was able to climb to the top of the gate and walk throughout the structure. From the top, I had amazing views of the festivities below. This gate is the remaining relic of the ancient Forbidden City.
Walking throughout the UNESCO Heritage site (since 2010), it is easy to see why this complex is a source of great pride to the people of Hanoi and the Vietnamese people. The grounds are lush, green and extensive, although many of the original buildings were destroyed by the French.
15th century stone dragons can be found decorating the steps to what was once Kinh Thien Palace. You can also visit Hau Lau (Black Tower) and Cua Bac (Northern Gate) at the back of the complex as well as the Princess Tower and the Military Operation Bunker.
From the front of the grounds, you see the Flag Tower of Hanoi which is frequently used as a symbol of the city. Built in 1812, during the Nguyen Dynasty, the tower, was spared from destruction during the French colonial rule as it was used as a military post. I inquired as to visiting the tower but was told that it was not open to the public. After my visit, however, I discovered that although most people consider it a part of the Citadel, it is actually part of the Military History Museum. Perhaps I was told that it was not open that day or perhaps I was mistakenly told that it was not open to the public…the language barrier may have contributed to not being able to visit this landmark.
Realizing that the day was drawing to a close, I decided that it was time to head back to my little hotel room in the Old Quarter for a shower and dinner. Exhausted, I was dreading the long walk. After being approached by a motorcyclist and offered a ride to my hotel, I decided to take him up on his bid. Shortly after taking my seat behind him, however, I wondered what I had gotten myself into! Turning his motorbike around and heading into traffic until he was able to get to the street that he wanted, I wondered if he actually knew how to navigate the streets. We continued on…many motorbikes immediately to our left and right and the occasional bus, inches from my shoulder. He made quick work of driving back to the Old Quarter and was soon depositing me at the door of the hotel.
After my harrowing journey, it was time to relax, have a calming drink, eat a delicious dinner and ready myself for my long day to Ha Long Bay the next morning! Reflecting on my day’s adventures, I was amazed that I had braved the streets of Hanoi, even on the back of a motorbike, and seen so many beautiful and inspiring things, however, I realized that I had seen only half of what the city had to offer. There was so much more still to explore. Glad that I had decided on the one day cruise to Ha Long Bay, I was now free to explore the rest of Hanoi’s treasures on my return.
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Quán Thánh Temple
- Address: Ngã 3 giao cắt và, Thanh Niên, Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hanoi, Vietnam
- Admission, 10,000 Dong (about 50 cents U.S.)
- Opening Hours: 0500-1900
Trấn Quốc Pagoda
- Thanh Niên, Trúc Bạch, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
- Admission, free
- Opening Hours: dawn til dusk
Presidential Palace
- http://vpctn.gov.vn/Pages/trangchu.aspx
- Address: No 1 Hoang Hoa Tham street (Red Gate), Ba Dinh District, Hanoi 10000, Vietnam
- Admission: 40,000 Dong (about U.S. $1.80)
- Opening Hours: 0700-1700
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
- https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/ho-chi-minh-mausoleum.html
- Address: Ba Dinh Square, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
- Admission: free
- Opening Hours: Summer Hours, 0730-1030, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 0730-1100, Saturday and Sunday. Winter Hours, 0800-1100, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 0800-1130, Saturday and Sunday. Closed September 4 through November 4.
- Modest Dress required
One Pillar Pagoda (Chùa Một Cột)
- http://www.vietnamtourism.com/index.php/tourism/items/241
- Address: Chùa Một Cột, Đội Cấn, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
- Admission: 25,000 Vietnamese Dong (about $1.12)
- Opening Hours: 0600-1800, daily
Temple of Literature
- http://vanmieu.gov.vn/
- Address: Quoc Tu Giam Street, Hanoi, Vietnam, VN
- Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. 45 cents)
- Opening Hours: 0830-1130 and 1330-1630
Thang Long Royal Citadel
- http://www.hoangthanhthanglong.vn/
- Address: Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hanoi, Vietnam
- Admission: 30,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. $1.34)
- Opening Hours: 0830-1130 and 1400-1700
Flag Tower of Hanoi
- https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/hanoi-flag-tower.html
- Address: Lê Hồng Phong, Điện Biên, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
- Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. 45 cents) Admission to Military Museum, 30,000 (about U.S. $1.34)
- Opening Hours: 0800-1130 and 1400-1600 Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, Saturday and Sunday.