Hello Hoi An!

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Ever been in a taxi and wondering if your taxi driver actually knows where he is taking you?  Many people can say, “Yes, of course!”

It was quite early when I said goodbye to the Tu Linh Hotel and headed back to Noi Bai International Airport.  I was excited to start the next chapter of my Vietnam travels and my destination was Hoi An.

Turning out of the Old Quarter, I rested my head on my seat and watched the heavy morning traffic outside my window.  Suddenly, the taxi driver turned to me and asked a question in Vietnamese.  He lifted a paper and pointed to the words Noi Bai International Airport.  Guessing that he was asking me if that was where we were going, I was a little perplexed as I knew the hotel had given him instructions to take me to the airport.  After a few more exchanges, I realized that he was asking me if I was traveling international or domestic and I stated Da Nang.  Realizing that he still was confused, it dawned on me that maybe there were two airports.  Oh no!  What if he takes me to the wrong one?

A call to the Tu Linh Hotel finally straightened things out.  He only wanted to make sure that I was going to the domestic terminal and soon deposited me there safely.

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Soaring through the skies on Jetstar Airways, I arrived a short time later into Da Nang International Airport.  Thankfully, my driver was waiting for me this time…front and center…and after a rather uneventful drive, we were arriving in Hoi An.

“The cutest hotel I have ever stayed at in the entire world”.  This was how my friend had described the Ha An Hotel.  Coming from a flight attendant, that is the highest of praise and I knew that there was no other place to stay!  Well, he was right!  Truly one of the most charming places I have ever seen, I was elated that I had taken his advice. I was ushered to the restaurant where I was served fresh fruit and a frosty drink.  The receptionist, sat with me, going over the hotel’s amenities and then informed me that my room was ready.

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img_9322Walking into my room, I was flabbergasted!  I had been upgraded to one of the rooms opening onto the lush courtyard.  My room was spacious and extremely well appointed with a large comfortable-looking bed.  The bathroom had an open shower with river rock and a marble counter.  Wow! Wow! Wow!  The thought that ran through my head at that moment was that I was going stay here forever!  Oh, well…at least for another couple of nights!

Opening my plantation doors, I peered out into the courtyard.  There was a pool table just outside my door and an infinity edge swimming pool in the far corner.  The area was beautifully landscaped and the entire hotel complex’s appearance had the feel of an old Caribbean plantation.

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As much as I wanted to languish in this exquisiteness, I was anxious to explore the town.  Following my map, I headed out of my hotel’s gates and headed toward the Old Town.

Hoi An’s Old Town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 and is a well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port as would have been experienced during the 15th to 19th centuries.  There are 1,107 original timber frame buildings and the center of town is restricted to pedestrians, motorcycles and bicycles.

imageAn entrance ticket is actually required to enter the Old Town, however, the ticket is rarely checked except when entering one of the buildings or points of interest that it is required for.  It took a few minutes to locate one of the ticket booths, but I soon had a ticket in hand and was anxious to explore the many historic landmarks.

The ticket is valid for 24 hours and allows (with tear-off coupons) entrance to five attractions.  Trying to decipher which of the attractions I was going to visit first, was a bit of a task and I decided to start with the closest.

imageRight around the corner, on Tran Phu Street, was the To Do Tham Quan Pagoda.  Entering through the brick front entrance arch, I noticed the Chinese characters that represent the deity to whom the temple is dedicated on each side of the doorway.  The central courtyard contained a censer and the temple displayed many Chinese offerings of fruit, cookies and incense near the gold leafed altar.  There were many interesting statues and carvings (some protected by glass) and the space was lighted by many large lanterns. The best part about this interesting pagoda was that I didn’t have to use one of my Old Town tickets…it was free to visit.

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imageWithout having to check my map, I moved on to the nearby Minh Huong Communal House, with its bright yellow entrance arch, also on Tran Phu and included in the list of the historical attractions with ticket access.  Minh Huong was built by Chinese settlers in the late 18th century to worship their ancestors who had founded the Minh Huong village.  Deities worshiped here are Thien Hau Holy Mother, the God of Earth and the God of Fortune.  Every year, seasonal worship rituals and celebrations dedicated to Minh Huong ancestors are held here in the spring and fall.

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img_8392Further down the street, was the Confucian Ong Pagoda, also known as the Quan Cong Temple.  Located on a street corner near the central market, the 17th century pagoda was easy to find and included in the list of historical attractions, thus requiring a ticket.  Dedicated to “Quan Thanh De Quan” (Quan Cong), it was built in 1653 to honor the Chinese general, a prominent figure in the three kingdom era of China.  The interior was very ornate and included two huge wooden statues near the altar which should be inspected…one is the the idol of the protector of Quan Cong and the other is the adopted son of the protector.  The small front hall contains an altar dedicated to Quan Cong’s guards and is flanked by ritual weapons and objects used for processions.img_8399

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Rounding the corner, on my way to the Hoi An Museum, I spotted Chua Ba and dashed inside for some pictures.  Containing some some small altars and a courtyard, it was nice for a quick visit.

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img_8515Moving on, I headed to the Hoi An Museum.  Anxious to learn about the history of Hoi An, I was a bit dismayed to find that some information was not translated into English.  The space has some interesting relics, including bells, a boat and artillery however, it did not feel very welcoming or well displayed.  The museum also does not have air conditioning and it was extremely difficult to move throughout the space without searching for a fan to cool off.  The admission was included in the Old Town ticket, however, it is one that I would skip on a future visit.

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img_8524In search of the Japanese Covered Bridge, I came upon the Thong Bao Temple.  With free admission, I decided to take a few minutes to inspect the premises.  When entering, I was greeted by a large open courtyard with a multitude of statues on the right side of the property.  A sign at the entrance, gives many instructions, including standing three meters away from these statues, not pointing at the statues or crossing your arms behind your back when standing in front of the statues.  The main building is a large impressive structure with beautiful tile work and ornate columns.  If in the area, this temple is certainly worth a look.

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img_5963Back to my mission, I headed down Nhi Trung Street towards the Japanese Covered Bridge, the most famous tourist destination and the official symbol of Hoi An.  There were many visitors both near and on the bridge.  The structure was built in the early seventeenth century by the community of Hoi An to create a link with the Chinese quarters across the stream and is a beautiful and unique example of the Japanese architecture of the period.  The bridge was constructed with a roof for protection from the sun and rain and contains three Chinese characters above the door, “Lai Ven Kieu” which means “Bridge for passengers by from Afar”.  The two sculptures at one end of the bridge, dog and monkey, are sacred symbols in the Japanese cultures.  After paying with my admission ticket, I only expected to use the bridge to cross to the other side.  Inside, however, I found a small temple which is dedicated to the northern God, Tran Vo Bac De, the God of Weather.  Later, I was informed that crossing the bridge was free, and you only had to pay with an admission ticket if intending to visit the temple, however, attendants were stationed at the entrance of the bridge and demanded a ticket upon entry.

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imageAfter crossing the Japanese Covered Bridge, I continued on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and reached the Cam Pho Communal House.  It was nearing the end of the day and there were no other visitors as I entered.  Greeted with a bright yellow entrance arch and tall yellow vases and an altar in the central courtyard, I found it to be very similar to the Minh Huong Communal House, including a vestibule, left hall, right hall and main hall.  What I loved most were the ridge and gable ornamentation.

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img_8150After leaving Cam Pho Communal House, I proceeded to walk to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and make my way toward the waterfront.  Walking along the far side of the Thu Bon river, I marveled at the many sculptures, choices of restaurants and hotels and the boats being paddled by local women along the river.  Crossing the Hoi An Bridge, and scanning the many restaurants here along the waterfront that were just starting to light up, I realized that my stomach was starting to rumble.  Time for dinner!
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img_7564img_7566After freshening up and enjoying a beer on my patio, I realized that with all of the activities I had packed into the day, I was extremely tired.  Deciding to look for something close to my hotel, I happened upon the White Lotus.  After a delicious meal of seafood filled won tons and shrimp and yellow noodles, I discovered that this delectable restaurant not only serves wonderful food, but it also a non-profit helping those less fortunate.  Owned by Project Indochina, an Australian non government aid organization, the profits made by White Lotus are used to fund aid programs that improve of the quality of life of disadvantaged children, their families and communities in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.
 Making my way back across the street to my hotel, I was happy (as were my feet) that I did not have to travel very far.  Ready for sleep, I settled in, not sure what the next day would bring.  No plans…I was ready for anything…for my second day in Hoi An.
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Jetstar Airways
  • http://www.jetstar.com/us/en/home

Ha An Hotel

 Hoi An Old Town
  • https://www.travelfish.org/sight_profile/vietnam/central_vietnam/quang_nam/hoi_an/729
  • Admission ticket:  120,000 Vietnamese dong (about US $6.00)
  • The full list of sights included on the ticket is:
    Old houses: Tan Ky; Duc An; Quan Thang; Phung Hung;
    Assembly halls: Quang Trieu; Trieu Chau; Phuc Kien;
    Structures: Japanese Covered Bridge;
    Museums: Museum of Trade Ceramics; Museum of Sa Huynh Culture; Museum of Folk Culture; Museum of Hoi An;
    Traditional arts: Handicraft workshop; traditional music performance;
    Communal houses: Cam Pho; Minh Huong; Quan Cong Temple;
To Do Tham Quan Pagoda
  • Address:  Tran Phu, Hoi An, Vietnam
  • Admission:  free
  • Open daily, all year long
Minh Huong Communal House

Quan Cong Temple (Ong Pagoda)

Chua Ba Temple

  • Admission:  free
  • Open daily, all year long

Hoi An Museum

  • https://hoianheritage.net/
  • Address:  10B Trần Hưng Đạo, Sơn Phong, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
  • Admission:  included with the Old Town ticket
  • Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

Thong Bao Temple

  • Address:  Nhi Trung Street
  • Admission:  free
  • Open daily, all year long

Japanese Covered Bridge

Cam Pho Communal House

  • Address:  Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An, Vietnam
  • Admission:  included with the Old Town ticket
  • Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

White Lotus Restaurant

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