Tag: casa particular

Dreaming of Havana

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Selecting a place to stay in any city can be stressful.

You want to be in a venue that is convenient and clean, yet for a solo female, safe.

The United States’ relationship with Cuba also presents a problem. Americans are not allowed to subsidize any kind of government property or business and many of the hotels are government owned. Two of the visa categories that allowed for American travel to Cuba were “People to People” and “Support the People”. These allowed for Americans to stay in small privately owned Airbnb properties, more commonly known as casa particulars, which allowed interaction with the local population and the ability to support the hardworking residents rather than the government.

One of the reasons that I had never attempted to travel to Cuba was because I was afraid to book a place early on. Since I travel on a stand-by basis, it is quite difficult to know that you will positively receive a seat on the flight until just before departure, unless half of the plane is full…and that never seems to happen! By this time, most cancellation deadlines for the properties have already passed.

Many times, I have booked my hotel from the airplane while it was still at the gate, while in-flight or even after I had landed. Since my American-based cellphone would not work upon my arrival, none of these options were viable since I really needed a response from the property owner confirming my reservation and the address of the accommodation, unlike staying in a hotel.

As I stressed the night before about this trip, I reached out to two of the properties, on the Airbnb website, that looked nice and appeared to be in the area that I wanted. Thankfully, the owner of Havana Dream, was awake in the middle of the night, talking to his family in Spain (as I later learned). When I explained my situation, he readily gave me the address and told me to book later that morning when I had a better handle on the situation. It was truly that bit of understanding that led me to have an outstanding experience.

My fears were put to rest when the gentleman who sat next to me on the plane, a tour guide, told me that he regularly keeps clients at that location. I knew that it wasn’t one of the cheaper places to stay, but I took his words to heart. “You truly get what you pay for in Havana. You will not regret staying at this place.”

Another added touch, that helped me to feel comfortable, was the fact that the owner arranged for a classic car and driver to meet me at the airport. With my limited Spanish, it was a relief to know that someone would be waiting for me and I would not have to communicate the directions. Though the service was at my expense, it was one that helped my navigation from the airport to the downtown area immensely.

Still, one never knows what you are going to get until you actually arrive.

As we pulled up to the door on Obrapia Street, I was a little skeptical. I followed the driver up a narrow set of of concrete stairs, passing an entrance to other units beyond an iron gate. Another gate was opened for us to ascend yet another flight of concrete stairs. And there I was…

Havana Dream.

The manager, Judy, met me in the sitting area and as I looked around, it definitely looked like the pictures that had motivated me to book. The sitting, kitchen and dining areas were the nucleus of the home and was quite beautiful and modern. There were stunning antiques and showcases filled with expensive-looking place settings, flatware and glassware and the kitchen cabinets and appliances were all flawless, stainless steel. Amazing art pieces, crystal chandeliers and fresh flowers completed the look!

The door to my room was one of two, immediately off of this area. As Judy led me in, I can say that I knew, then and there, that I had indeed made the right choice. My bed was pristinely made, covered in a white bedspread with embroidered pillows with the the name of this casa particular. There were small night tables and lamps on either side of the bed, with USB ports for my charging needs, and a luggage rack, a place to hang my clothes and soft, monogrammed robes. Across from the bed, there was an antique bureau which had been converted into a washbasin, an antique sewing machine, which was flipped under so that the top could be used as a table and a television mounted on the wall. Since it is advised to bring a great deal of cash for spending purposes (American ATM and credit cards do not work), the safe mounted on the wall was a welcome sight. Near the luggage rack, there was a bathroom, appointed with modern fixtures and soft, white, monogrammed towels hanging on the rack.

Judy opened up the balcony doors to show me the magnificent view of the Capitol building down the street, and the plush chairs that I would later enjoy during the cooler evenings. She then took me back inside to explain options available to me during my stay. The refrigerator was stocked with water, Hollandia beer and Tukola soda. It would be restocked each day and my tab would be noted for the items I had used. As we walked back into the kitchen, I was shown the menu board with food items available, such as sandwiches and fruit shakes. As I had decided to have breakfast the next morning, Judy took note of the time that I expected to eat and my particular liking for my eggs.

Money could be exchanged in the with Judy or the owner and internet cards could also be purchased. Not having cellular service was something that had caused me great anxiety. During my ride to the casa particular, I discovered that my cellphone’s GPS was working, so I was able to navigate throughout the city without pulling out maps and advertising to everyone that I was a tourist. The internet cards were for one hour increments, however, and noting my Apple product, Judy urged me to use the minutes consecutively. They had discovered that with Iphones, sometimes the remaining minutes disappear after a one-hour card was initiated. Later, I learned that occasionally, the owner would turn on WIFI and if I was lucky enough to be there, I could tap into his network, keeping me from continually having to purchase more cards. Having the ability to touch base with my family and let them know that I was okay was comforting.

Noting all of the modern products in the home, the lack of stores offering home furnishings and necessities required to run an establishment such as this, I asked the owner one day about how he was able to furnish the place so eloquently. Though originally born in Cuba, he spent most of his life in Spain and from there, devised the plan to open a casa particular in Havana. Much thought and planning was given to the project and countless hours were spent acquiring what was needed to remodel and ready the property. It was then all packed into a shipping container and transported across the ocean. Here, it was all combined with a loving touch so that visitors would be welcomed for a comfortable stay in the city.

He spoke so passionately about the project and his plans to continually improve the premises. Taking me outside, he led me past the other two bedrooms, in the back of the unit, to a set of intimidating stairs, that probably might not meet the building code in the United States. Up we went, to the roof, where I found the space that he planned to establish a dining/relaxing area. He already had a barbeque pit, a few chairs and work had begun on the tile flooring. The view, however, was what stole the show! I could already envision myself sitting there on a future stay, relaxing and enjoying a beer, while enjoying the sunset and scenery!

Back downstairs, I enjoyed my morning breakfasts in the beautiful dining room…and yes, we ate off of the good service pieces! The women who prepared my toast, eggs and elaborate plates of delicious fruit also prepared amazing queso sandwiches! I loved these so much that on my third day, when I stopped by my room to freshen up and drop off my packages, I had them make me one for lunch!

With so many things to see in the city, location was also something that had been extremely important. Only one block from the walking street, Obispo, a popular place to people watch, this casa particular was also in close proximity to countless museums, churches, dining, shopping, the discernable Capitol building and the famous El Floridita Bar! Location perfection!

Everything about this stay was seamless and I felt truly welcomed and safe. As my driver arrived to pick me up for my return to the airport and the United States, I took some time to reflect on the “trip that almost wasn’t”. Would I have changed anything at all about what I did here or more importantly, where I stayed?

The only thing I would have changed would have been to stay longer!

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Havana Dream