#paris – Snapping The Globe

The Catholic Superstar

St. Vincent de Paul was born on April 24, in 1581 in the region of Landes, France. Growing up with deeply religious beliefs, he felt the calling to the priesthood early on and was ordained at the age of 19.

Working as a chaplain for Queen Margaret de Valois, he also served as a tutor to the Gondi family. It was during this time that he realized the inequities between the rich and poor and took on the rectification of this situation as his life’s mission.

After sixty years in the priesthood, where he served the poor and suffering, St. Vincent de Paul died on September 27, 1660. Canonized only 77 years later (considered record time) by Pope Clement XII, he was considered a saint among saints and such a Catholic superstar that in 1969, Pope Paul VI added his Feast Day to the official calendar as the 27th of September.

On a brisk fall day, it was this illustrious saint that I had come in search of in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. Located only a couple of blocks from the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal, where the saint’s heart is enshrined, the Shrine of St. Vincent de Paul (not to be confused with the Church of St. Vincent de Paul in the 10th arrondissement) is located inside the Church of the Lazarists Mission and houses a wax effigy of the saint.

Entering the church, I was surprised to find something extremely different from the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal, which I had just visited. An impressive festooned interior with intricate details decorating the walls, columns and doorways was framed by a high arched ceiling enhanced with blue and gold painting and framed, gilded medallions. While my impression of the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal had been of one that was light and airy, this church was more grand and elaborate and my eyes were immediately drawn to the grand altar filled with statues. Above the tabernacle, I could see the glass reliquary and St. Vincent de Paul’s likeness displayed within.

Since I had conducted some research before my visit, I was aware of the story of his exhumation. When first unearthed, the saint’s body first appeared to be incorrupt, however, when flooding damaged the area where his body had been placed, it began to show signs of decay. His heart was removed and sent to the Chapel of the Miraculous Medal and his skeletal remains covered with wax giving him a very realistic appearance.

Following the modest story of St. Vincent de Paul, conveyed through the pictures displayed in the stained glass and a canvas by Brother Francois, I walked along the side aisles which also displayed many statues and the casket containing the remains of St. Jean-Gabriel Perboyre. The polished marble floor reflected the lighting and the beautiful blue tiled ceilings.

From my viewpoint in front of the altar, I looked upward, admiring the glass and silver reliquary, designed by Odiot, the best goldsmith of his era. I bowed my head, said a prayer and continued on throughout the remainder of the church. As I neared the exit, I turned for one last look and a movement at the reliquary caught my eye.

A person.

Thinking it must be a member of the staff, I once again prepared to depart when I noticed the person hold up their cellphone for a selfie.

There had to be a way up there.

Making my way back toward the front of the church, I began to search for the way up. Deep behind the altar, I found it…a dual stairway, on either side, leading up to the holy treasure!

An easy climb led me to the top, allowing for the veneration of the relics at an amazingly close distance, and also being able to appreciate the outstanding craftsmanship of the reliquary, the intricate statues that guard the icon and a bird’s eye view of the church.

Thankful that I had turned for that one last look…I may have missed the most important part of this unique shrine.

Missing the ability to be so near the reliquary of such an important Catholic saint is only part of the issue with the church. A simple structure that one may just stroll by while in the area due to its plain facade, it must be sought out with a purpose. It is not a structure that a person simply stumbles upon…unless you like entering random doorways…however, it is one that any person with an affinity for Catholic history should seek out. Not only a beautiful church, it is one that honors an amazing Catholic saint.

Seek out this superstar…he’s still shining bright.

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The Shrine of Saint Vincent de Paul

Address: 95 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, France
Hours: 0800-1200 and 1400-1900 (unverified)
Admission: free
Getting There: By Metro, Vaneau or Sèvres-Babylone stations. By Bus, number 39, 70 and 87.

The Miraculous Medal

Paris has always been a spiritual place for me.

Having associated the city with its beautiful churches, cathedrals and miracles that have occurred within the country, I truly love the peace it gives me when I visit.

Years ago, I found myself with an extra day to fill while in the city. Wandering through a part of town that I had never been to, I found the Chapel of Our Lady Miraculous Medal, tucked away on Rue de Bac, the location where the Blessed Virgin Mary appeared to Catherine Labouré in 1830.

The chapel’s location, is quite inconspicuous and I doubt that you would find it if you were not actively trying to do so. Even so, thousands of visitors make their way to the chapel each year to attend mass and purchase the medals that Our Lady requested to be created.

Dating back to 1813, the chapel was dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus and located in the Hôtel de Châtillon. It was expanded in 1849 and many times in the years after its inception. The chapel we see today, was completed in 1930, however, the tabernacle, dating back to the seventeenth or eighteenth century is still as it was in 1815, coming from the building given to the Daughters of Charity in 1800.

When Catherine Labouré was a seminary sister at the mother house of the Daughters of Charity of Saint Vincent de Paul, she began having visions. In the first, Saint Vincent de Paul showed her his heart, each time in a different color; white (peace), red (fire) and black (misfortunes that would come upon Paris and the entire country). Her second vision displayed Christ presented in the Sacred Host, and then on The Feast of the Holy Trinity, He appeared as a crucified King, stripped of his adornments.

Her final vision came at the age of 24, when she received three visits from the Blessed Virgin Mary. On July 18, the Blessed Virgin requested that Confraternity of the Children of Mary be established. Mary’s second request was that a medal be created with the following invocation, “O Mary, conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to thee.” Following her orders, the medal was forged and since its creation, countless miracles have been attributed to the medal as well as conversions and protection for those seeking it.

Everyone knows about the miracles that occur at Lourdes, however, it has been said that more miracles have occurred through devotion to the Blessed Mother while praying with this medal. It became known as the Miraculous Medal when during the cholera epidemic in Paris, in 1832, the Sisters handed out medals and many people were unexpectedly cured and then turned their faith to God.

The first thing you notice upon entering the chapel, besides the large number of the devoted bowing their heads in prayer, is how light and airy the space is. High ceilings frame the chapel and tall columns line either side, making way for the side aisles containing the shrine of Saint Louise de Marillac, co-foundress with Saint Vincent de Paul of the Daughters of Charity and the reliquary containing the heart of Saint Vincent de Paul.

As I approached the altar, I admired the tabernacle decorated with an angel carrying a cross and its carved door depicting the nativity, crowned with a shining star. The tabernacle is flanked by two light-carrying angels and topped by a beautiful ivory crucifix. Towering above the tabernacle is the large marble statue of the Virgin with the Rays.

Another statue of Mary, the Virgin of the Globe, caught my eye, holding the world in her hands.

I walked over to inspect the aisle dedicated to Saint Vincent de Paul which contains the Altar of the Apparitions, a mosaic by Maison Maurmejean and the most important piece, the relic of the heart of Saint Vincent de Paul, which was brought to Paris from Turin during the Revolution.

Crossing over to the other aisle, I gazed upon the body of Saint Louise de Marillac, which has rested inside the chapel since 1920.

The main attraction of the chapel, however, is Catherine Labouré. Buried in the chapel in Enghien-Reuilly, the location of her death, the vault was opened at the time of her beautification and her body was found to be perfectly intact. It was transferred to the chapel and presently lies under the altar of Our Lady of the Globe in a glass coffin. Many of the faithful kneel before her, laying down their burdens and tribulations.

After a few minutes spent in prayer, I headed out into the courtyard and into the gift shop. There are many styles and sizes of the Miraculous Medal available for purchase as well as rosaries, prayer books and prayer cards.

A site of spirituality and miracles, a visit to the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal is a must for true believers. See the spot where these holy apparitions took place and see the person responsible for the medal. Purchase one, wear it and share it with other faithfuls.

The Miraculous Medal Prayer

O Virgin Mother of God, Mary Immaculate, We dedicate and consecrate ourselves to you under the title of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal. May this Medal be for each one of us a sure sign of your affection for us and a constant reminder of our duties toward you. Ever while wearing it, may we be blessed by your loving protection and preserved in the grace of your Son. O Most Powerful Virgin, Mother of Our Savior, keep us close to you every moment of our lives. Obtain for us, your children, the grace of a happy death; so that in union with you, we may enjoy the bliss of Heaven forever.
Amen.

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Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal

http://www.chapellenotredamedelamedaillemiraculeuse.com/langues/english/the-chapel-of-our-lady-of-the-miraculous-medal/
Address: 140 rue du Bac, 75007 Paris
Hours: Tuesday, 0745-1900, Wednesday through Monday, 0745-1300 and 1430-1900
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Sevres-Babylone (lines 10 and 12). Buses, 39, 63, 70, 84, 87, 94.

Bare Bones

The Catacombs of Paris…

Often the subject of many a horror movie, the catacombs maintain a place in countless imaginations as one of gruesome terror. Those who are claustrophobic refuse to enter thinking that as they make their way thru the passageways, the walls will close in around them, the bones coming to life! And there are many who are convinced that ghost roam these halls (well, actually they might).

Despite these fears, the Catacombs are a popular, yet dark feature in The City of Light with thousands of visitors lining up each day to roam the corridors and gaze upon the millions of bones that line the walls and walkways.

With so many famous cemeteries in Paris (Cimetière du Père Lachaise, Cimetière de Montmartre, Cimetière du Montparnasse), however, how did the catacombs come to be?

Limestone quarries, located on the outskirts of the city, provided construction materials for the city’s building and allowed for growth and expansion before the 18th century. Around this time, Parisian cemeteries were increasingly becoming overpopulated and many improper burials resulted in open graves and unearthed corpses. The stench of decomposing flesh and the risk of disease led those who resided close to these cemeteries to complain to the authorities.

In 1763, Louis XV issued an edict which banned all burials within the city, however, the Church fought back, not wishing to disturb the dead. In 1780, massive rains caused flooding which resulted in a wall around the cemetery of Les Innocents to collapse, spilling rotting corpses onto the neighboring properties. Finally, French authorities were forced to take action.

The quarries were deemed an appropriate spot to relocate the bones and corpses from the overcrowded cemeteries. In 1786, the Tombe-Issoire quarries were blessed and consecrated and they became what we now know as the Paris Catacombs. Moving the bodies from Les Innocents took over two years and was followed by the relocation of bones from cemeteries throughout the city. By the French Revolution, however, the practice of burying the newly dead directly into the catacombs was instituted.

The process of transferring the bones was finally completed in 1860 and seven years later, the catacombs were opened to the public.

Access to the Catacombs, one of the fourteen City of Paris museums, is located near the Denfert Rochereau metro station in the Square de l’Abbe Migne. After waiting in the never-ending queue, you will descend via a staircase of 130 steps leading down 20 meters below ground. The area is dimly lit, and at times, narrow and low. There are many signs engraved on the walls, however, most will not be of any assistance in navigating the passageways. Architects and engineers of the Quarry Inspection Department marked their underground construction work during the 18th century. The number of the work site, initials and the year are engraved in the stone and are interesting to note. Other signs refer to the Arcueil Aqueduct, built between 1613 and 1623, on order from Marie de Medici, to bring water to the city from springs in Rungis and many of the passageways are identified by the avenues that run above them.

After a lengthy walk and an encounter with a display on the history of the catacombs, we soon came to the entrance to the ossuary, where a sign above the black and white doorways read “Stop, this is death’s empire!”. Stepping through the entryway, it is here that you finally encounter the remains of several million Parisians.

The first bones were thrown here randomly and it wasn’t until 1810, when Héricart de Thury, Inspector General of the Quarries, developed the area. Long bones and skulls were arranged decoratively to form a back wall, or hague, behind which the other bones are piled. Thury also created signage to indicate which Parisian cemetery the bones originated. His use of geometric shapes on the masonry pillars and decorative arrangement of the bones is fascinating and reminded me of the Capuchin Crypt in Rome, where bones are used to decorate the walls and used to make various objects within the crypt.

After a lengthy walk, I became separated from my companions and found myself completely alone. Though I was enthralled by the process of photographically capturing the unique bone formations, it suddenly dawned on me that I might have taken a wrong turn. Trying to remain calm, I continued on, positive that I was on the correct path toward the exit.

Finding the fountain “de la Samaritaine” (of the Samaritan woman) was a welcome sight. Knowing that this would be part of the tourist passageways, I realized that I must be on the correct path. The fountain is a well, around which a small circular area was designed, surrounded by wall of bones from the Les Innocents. The well was installed so that the quarry workers could make mortar for use in the construction of the hagues.

Finally, encountering other visitors, I found signs referring to the major events of the French Revolution, “Fighting at the Réveillon factory in Faubourg
Saint-Antoine on 28 April 1789” (where a workers’ protest ended in a massacre) and “Fighting at the Château des Tuileries on 10 August 1792” (where Swiss guards fought against Parisian units). During this time, the ossuary was used as a morgue and those killed in combat were brought to this location.

Nearing the end of the tour, my companions were alerted to my approach by the clicking of my camera. Here, I found them in the Crypt of the Passion, or the “tibia rotunda”. A supporting pillar is circled by skulls and tibias and form an impressive barrel shape. In 1897, a concert was held here between midnight and two in the morning. Over one hundred thrill-seeking attendees listened to Chopin’s Funeral March and the Danse Macabre as well as other pieces by Camille Saint-Saens.

Those same thrill-seekers are still fascinated by the Paris Catacombs today. Though open to the general public, access is limited to a small part of the network. Since, 1955, it has been illegal to enter other parts of the catacombs, however, the Cataphiles, urban explorers, have explored parts of the catacombs deemed off limits. Some areas have been reported to have been restored and turned into creative spaces by the Cataphiles, one with a secret amphitheater, complete with a giant cinema screen, projection equipment, a couple of films and seats and a neighboring area with a fully stocked bar and a restaurant. As many as 300 Cataphiles have been reported to enter the catacombs each week via secret entrances. Non-Cataphiles and tourists are not welcome.

Though this may be appealing to many, I myself, realizing how uneasy I was when I was alone during my visit, think I would rather remain in the areas that are monitored…and at least lit.

As we exited into the gift shop, we took a moment to look around at the merchandise offered and to utilize their restrooms. Stepping out onto the streets, near the intersection of Avenue Rene Coty and Rue Dareau, however, it became clear that our ending point was not near the beginning of our journey. Though we were able to swiftly determine the correct direction to return, it might be beneficial if signage pointed visitors back to the direction in which they came.

Where else in the world do you get to explore a city from below? For this reason, the Catacombs are a “must-see” and should not be missed! And, for those interested in Parisian history, this is for you!

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The Catacombs of Paris

http://www.catacombes.paris.fr/en/homepage-catacombs-official-website
Address: 1 Avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 75014 Paris, France
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday from 1000-2030, last admission, 1930. Closed Mondays.
Admission: 13€, children under 18, free. Expect a long line to enter. Advance tickets may be purchased which offer a Skip the Line option for about 31€ which also includes an audio guide.
Getting There: Located across from the Denfert-Rochereau metro stop, in the Square de l’Abbe Migne

The Royal Necropolis

Off with his head!

Decapitated on the hill of Montmartre during the mid-third century, Saint Denis, the first patron saint of France and the first bishop of Paris, was said to have carried his head to the site where he wanted to be buried, the site of the present church…the Basilica of Saint Denis.

A shrine to Saint Denis was erected on the site, which was formerly a Gallo-Roman cemetery, and the Abbey of Saint Denis was established by Dagobert I, king of the Franks. In 636, on orders of Dagobert I, the relics of Saint Denis were reinterred into the location and then later removed when they were transferred to the parish church of the town in 1795. The relics were finally returned to the abbey in 1819. At the death of Dagobert in 639 until the 19th century, the Abbey of Saint Denis became the burial site of not only St. Denis, but the burial place of 43 kings, 32 queens and 10 servants to the monarchy. It is also interesting to note that the cathedral was only used for the coronation of French Queens, never the kings, that function being reserved for the Cathedral of Reims.

Today, Saint Denis is not on the Paris list of “must sees” but absolutely should be, as extraordinary as it is. Not many people I know, who have visited Paris, have heard of it or actually know where it is located. But, so impressed by my first visit a few years ago, I decided to make the journey to Saint Denis once again in the northern part of the city.

Taking the RER B, I headed north, changing lines to the RER D at Gare du Nord. Disembarking at Gare du St. Denis, I walked out of the station only to realize that nothing looked familiar. Asking for help, I proceeded to walk in the direction which I was pointed. About ten minutes later, following signs marking the way, I finally found the basilica.

Admittedly, the exterior is quite remarkable and some time should be taken to inspect and appreciate the intricate details on all facades of the church before entering. Admission to the nave is free and well worth a walk around. From here, you can determine why the church was promoted to cathedral status in 1966, so awesome is its beauty. Be sure to visit the gallery on the left side of the cathedral which showcases many royal items from past kings. From the nave, you can spy the tombs and monuments from afar, however, if you are aspiring to a closer look (which you will), you must pay the admission to the necropolis outside at the right of the basilica.

The entrance to the royal necropolis is just past the admission booth, however, take a minute to enter to Visitor’s Center which offers a detailed history of the cathedral as well as an architectural model of St. Denis and the surrounding area.

Once you’ve stepped back inside the basilica, you will realize how breathtaking it truly is. The architecture is impressive with its vaulted ceilings and transept roses, however, there is so much more to behold here. It is here that is the burial location of most French kings and the many monuments of kings, queens and others were moved here at the time of the Revolution, when the churches where they resided were demolished. Many of these tombs exhibit the effigies of those they represent, but no longer contain the remains, when during Revolutionary times, the tombs were opened by workers, under orders from officials, and the bodies removed and dumped into two large pits nearby. A great number, however, were saved by archaeologist Alexandre Lenoir who claimed them as artworks for his Museum of French Monuments.

Saint Denis, more of a museum of monumental sculpture, offers the largest collection of funerary sculpture from the 12th to 16th centuries and a large number of tombs of particular worth, Clovis I, the first to be moved to Saint Denis, two beautiful enameled brass effigies of Blanch and Jean, the children of St. Louis, a lovely effigy of Berthe (Big Foot), whose monument was part of a series commissioned by St. Louis. Be sure to set your eyes upon the colossal monuments of Francois I and Claude, Louis XII and Anne of Brittany and Henry II and Catherine de Medici, the parents in law of Mary, Queen of Scots. Most interesting is the monument to Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, of which the remains were found on January 21, 1815 and brought to Saint Denis by the Bourbons and buried in the crypt in the Bourbon grave.

Ensure that you do not miss the stairways down to the ossuary and the crypt. The Bourbon Chapel, the first entrance down the stairs on the right, contains centographs from the 19th century which honors the Bourbon dynasty and the heart of Louis XVII. The Bourbon grave, as mentioned above, contains the remains of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. The royal ossuary contains bones exhumed from the royal tombs at the time of the Revolution gathered by Louis XVIII and placed behind two marble plates with the name of each monarch. The archaeological crypt presents the remains of earlier structures and was the location of the martyred saints, Saints Denis, Rustique and Eleuthière.

So enthralled was I by the intricately sculpted tombs each with their unique hand positioning and many with their beloved pets at their feet, that I had to remind myself to take note of the beautiful stained glass featured throughout; the north transept rose features the Tree of Jess and the south transept shows the Creation as well as exceptional modern glass and twelve misericords. Many of the panels have been removed for long-time conservation and replaced with photographic transparancies.

After spending a considerable part of the afternoon, closing time was drawing near and I was ushered outside to the now-closed gates by one of the cathedral employees. Not quite ready to leave, I spent a few minutes in the waning sunlight and captured a few more photos. Truly spectacular!

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Basilica of St. Denis

http://www.saint-denis-basilique.fr/en/
Map of the tombs in St. Denis: https://uk.tourisme93.com/basilica/map-of-the-tombs-saint-denis-basilica.html
Address: Basilique cathédrale de Saint-Denis 1, rue de la Légion d’Honneur,93200 Saint-Denis
Hours: January 2-March 31 and October 1-December 31, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 1000-1715. Sunday, 1200-1715. April 1-September 30, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 1000-1815. Sunday, 1200-1815. Closed on January 1, May 1 and December 25.
Admission: Adults, 9€, Under 26 years of age, 7€. Audio Guide, 4.50€, Under 18 years, 3€.
Getting There: Line 13, station Basilique de Saint-Denis. The Metro Station was a couple of blocks away from the cathedral and easily spotted by the colorful pot near the entrance. Taking the Metro allowed me to avoid the walk back to Gare du St. Denis for the RER.

All but three of the Kings of France are buried in the basilica in addition to a few other monarchs. The remains of the earlier monarchs were removed from the Abbey of St. Genevieve which was destroyed.

Clovis I (466-511)
Childebert I (496-558)
Aregund (515/520-580)
Fredegund (third wife of Chilperic I), (died 597)
Dagobert I (603-639)
Clovis II (634-657)
Charles Martel (686-741)
Pepin the Short (714-768) and his wife, Bertrada of Laon (died 783)
Carloman I (751-771)
Charles the Bald (823-877) and his first wife, Ermentrude of Orleans (823-869)
Carloman II (866-884)
Robert II of France (972-1031) and his third wife, Constance of Arles (986-1032)
Henry I of France (1008-1060)
Louis VI of France (1081-1137)
Louis VII of France (1120-1180) and his second wife, Constance of Castile (986-1032)
Philip II of France (1165-1223)
St. Louis IX of France (1214-1270)
Charles I of Naples (1227-1285, an effigy covers his heart burial
Philip III of France (1245-1285) and his first wife, Isabella of Aragon, Queen of France (1248-1271)
Philip IV of France (1268-1314)
Leo V, King of Armenia (1342-1393)
Louis XII of France (1462-1515)
Francis I of France (1494-1547)
Henry II (1519-1559) and Catherine de Medici (1519-1589)
Francis II (1544-1560)
Charles IX (1550-1574), no monument
Henry III (1551-1589), also King of Poland (heart burial monument)
Henry IV (1553-1610)
Louis XIII (1601-1643)
Louis XIV (1638-1715)
Louis V (1710-1774)
Louis XVI (1754-1793) and Marie Antoinette (1755-1793)
Louis XVII (1784-1795), heart burial
Louis XVIII (1755-1824)

Other Royalty and Nobility

Blanche of France (daughter of Philip IV)
Nicolas Henri, Duke of Orleans (1607-1611), son of Henry IV
Gaston, Duke of Orleans (1608-1660), son of Henry IV
Marie de Bourbon, Duchess of Montpensier (1605-1627), wife of Gaston
Marguerite of Lorraine (1615-1672), Duchess of Orleans and second wife of Gaston
Anne Marie Louise d’Orleans (1627-1693), la Grande Mademoiselle
Marguerite Louise d’Orleans (1645-1721), Grand Duchess of Tuscany
Jean Gaston d’Orleans (1650-1652), Duke of Valois
Marie Anne d’Orleans (1652-1656), Mademoisselle de Chartres
Henrietta Maria of France (1609-1669), wife of Charles I of Scotland and England
Philippe I, Duke of Orleans (1640=1701), brother of Louis XIV
Princess Henritta of England (1644-1670), first wife of Philippe
Elisabeth Charlotte of the Palatinate (1652-1722), second wife of Philippe
Maria Theresa of Spain (1638-1683), consort of Louis XIV
Louis of France (1661-1711), le Grand Dauphin
Maria Anna Victoria of Bavaria (1660-1690), Dauphin of France, wife of Louis
Princess Anne Elisabeth of France (1662), daughter of Louis XIV
Princess Marie Anne of France (1664), daughter of Louis XIV
Marie Thérèse of France, (667-1672), daughter of Louis XIV
Philippe Charles, Duke of Anjou (1668-1671), son of Louis XIV
Louis François of France (1672), Duke of Anjou, son of Louis XIV
Philippe II, Duke of Orléans (1674-1723), Regent of France
Louis of France (1682-1712), Duke of Burgundy
Marie Adélaïde of Savoy )1685-1712, Duchess of Burgundy
Louis of France (1704-1705), Duke of Brittany
Charles of France (1686-1714), Duke of Berry
Marie Louise Elisabeth d’Orléans (1695-1719), Duchess of Berry
Na (not baptized) d’Alençon (1711)
Charles d’Alençon (1713), Duke of Alençon
Marie Louise Elisabeth d’Alençon (1714)
Marie Leszczynska (1703-1768), consort of Louis XV
Louise Elisabeth of France (1727-1759), Duchess of Parma
Henriette of France (1727-1752), daughter of Louis XV and twin of above
Louise of France (1728-1733), daughter of Louis XV
Louis of France (1729-1765), Dauphin of France
Infanta Maria Teresa Rafaela of Spain (1726-1746), first wife of Louis of France, Dauphin of France
Maria Josepha of Saxony (1731-1767), second wife of Louis of France, Dauphin of France
Philippe of France (1730-1733, Duke of Anjou
Princess Marie Adèlaïde of France (1732-1800), daughter of Louis XV
Princess Victoire of France (1733-1799), daughter of Louis XV
Princess Sophie of France (1734-1782), daughter of Louis XV
Princess Louise of France (1737-1787), daughter of Louis XV
Louis Joseph, Dauphin of France (1781-1789), first son of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette
Princess Sophie Hélène Béatrice of France (1786-1787), second daughter of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette
Henri de La Tour d’Auvergne, VIcomte de Turenne (1611-1675), Maréchal General de France
Anne of Brittany, Duchess of Brittany (1477-1514), wife of Charles VIII and Louis XII

Papa Noël Would Be Proud

It’s Christmastime in the city!

Many European cities know how to do it up in grand style…in general and especially when it is Christmastime!

I have been to many Christmas markets in many different cities over the years (Frankfurt, Edinburgh, Amsterdam, Paris, London) and there is nothing like it to get you in the holiday spirit.

During the last couple of years, having been in Paris during the holidays, I have visited the market on the Champs Elysees. Last year, I have to admit, however, I was not very impressed with the types of merchandise offered and felt a little exposed being on either side of a major roadway. When I heard that the Champs Elysees market was not opening this year, it honestly did not surprise or disappoint me.

I knew that there were other markets in different parts of the city and a little research informed me that indeed the largest market was not the now defunct Champs Elysees but always had been the market at La Defense, operating since the early 1990s. Well, this was absolutely where I was headed.

Taking the metro was a relatively easy (although a bit lengthy) affair with only one switch. Arriving in the La Défense station, however, was quite confusing as we dodged the massive work crowd trying to get home for their dinner and weekend. Correctly assuming that the market would be near the Grande Arche, we followed the signs and found one of the entrances to the market.

For about six weeks, before, during and after Christmas, La Défense hosts the 12,000 sq. meter Christmas village. Laid out in a grid-like pattern with red carpeted walkways, 250 wooden chalets present a wide range of goods to entice eager holiday shoppers to part with their hard earned euros. Clothing items, ornaments, wooden games, jewelry, candy…you name it…it’s all there ready to be wrapped up and placed under your tree!

In addition to the shopping, there are countless choices of food items to be washed down with mulled wine, beer or hot chocolate. And don’t forget about dessert…waffles and crepes galore! If you can not find anything to tickle your fancy, however, remember that the Quatre-Temps mall and the CNIT are on either side of the market and offer a wide array of dishes.

The La Défense Christmas market also offers some other fun things…a virtual reality area, mascots who roam the market, a moving miniature Christmas village and Santa’s phone booth. Today’s youth! Why write Santa, or rather, Papa Noël (we are in France), a letter when you can use the direct line to give him a call at La Défense?

The whole area was lit beautifully and although it was a bit cold, we enjoyed walking around and admiring the beautifully crafted items. Our only complaint was that we didn’t feel like there were enough Christmas-y items. Although I found a regionally made nativity set for my collection, my friend was disappointed when she couldn’t find a Christmas ornament representative of Paris or even France for that matter. What we found was mass produced and evidently made in other countries.

At the end of our sojourn, before we headed back to the metro, we decided to climb the steps at the Grande Arche to look out over the area. I must say, with the skyscrapers on every side of the brightly lit market, it did make for a grand sight! Papa Noël would be proud!

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La Défense Christmas Market

From 23 November 2017 to 28 December 2017
Hours: Zone 1, food service, open 7 days a week, from 1100 to 2300 (0300 on December 31). Zones 2 and 3 open from Monday to Thursday, from 1100 to 2000, Friday until 2200, Saturday from 1000 to 2200.
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro Line 1, RER A, T2, Transilien train lines L and U

High On A Hill

Sitting high on a hill in Paris is a beautiful, white church. The Sacre Coeur.

The Roman Catholic church and minor basilica, designed by Paul Abadie, took thirty-nine years to complete and is one of the most visited landmarks in the city behind the Eiffel Tower. Not only dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, the basilica represents a penance for the defeat of France in the 1871 Franco-Prussian War and the socialist Paris Commune of 1871. From its vantage point on the Butte Montmartre, it is the recognized center of one of Paris’s most famous neighborhoods.

Montmartre is one of my favorite places in Paris. I love watching the artists paint in the Place du Tertre, the hoards of tourists and sampling the fabulous array of food choices. I love strolling the park-like setting of the Montmartre cemetery, strolling by Van Gogh’s former apartment, the Moulin de laGalette and then posing with the Passer Through Walls statue. My favorite thing, however, is paying a visit to the remarkable Sacre Coeur.

A most beautiful basilica, I am always quieted by its interior with dazzling mosaics, colorful stained glass windows and handsome organ, built by Aristide Cavaillé-Coll.

Though we did pass through the interior, our main reason for coming to the Sacre Coeur was to visit the Dome.

Paying our entrance fees, we began the arduous climb (over 300 steps) to the top of the Dome. Though I had to stop a few times and my legs were quite shaky, we reached the top and Oh! What a view!

The entire city of Paris was spread before us from the forecourt of the Basilica. Earlier, we had seen the city from the level of the River Seine, now we were seeing it over 200 meters higher and from a different vantage point than the Eiffel Tower, the highest point in Paris. The entire city and countryside can be observed from the narrow balcony that circles the dome for a 360 degree view.

The upper architecture of the basilica can also be inspected from this perspective…the compelling rooflines, the rain diverting gargoyles and the adjacent lofty towers. And the best part…I could look down on the entirety of my favorite area, Montmartre.

Finally, we made our way down the three hundred (or so) stairs, a much easier journey down than up.

In Paris, there are many ways to spy upon the city…the Dome of the Pantheon, Montparnasse Tower, the Eiffel Tower, but go to the Sacre Couer for visions of one of the most interesting parts of the city! It’s a double deal…see the interior and the surrounding area.

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Sacre Coeur Basilica

http://www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com/english/
Address: 35, Rue du Chevalier De La Barre, 75018 Paris
Hours: Main Entrance, Esplanade of the Basilica, 0600-2230
Admission: Basilica, free. Dome, Adults €6, Children, €4 (4-16yrs)
Getting There: Metro: Jules Joffrin (M° 12) + Montmartrobus (Place du Tertre stop), Pigalle (M° 12, M° 2) + Montmartrobus (Norvins stop), Anvers (M° 2) + Cable car (métro ticket) or steps, Abbesses (M° 12) + Cable car (métro ticket) or steps. Bus: 30 – 31 – 80 – 85 (Anvers Sacré-Coeur bus stop at foot of Montmartre)

What’s That Smell?

Love museums but sensitive to strong odors?

Read no further. This is not the museum for you!

There are a multitude of museums to choose from when visiting Paris…The Louvre, Musée D’Orsay, Rodin Museum, Galeries Nationale du Grand Palais, Petite Palais…the list goes on. But what do you do when you’ve been to them all? What if you are looking for a museum that offers something more unique than sculpture or paintings?

The Musée des Égouts de Paris (The Paris Sewer Museum) is a museum near the Pont D’Alma (Alma Bridge), on Paris’ Left Bank, that concentrates on the history of the city’s sewage and water treatment from its initial development in the 14th century.

Having been my second visit to this unique, walk through history, I was excited to take my son…after all, what teenaged boy wouldn’t think that going underground in Paris is cool? (and besides…the catacombs were closed!)

Heavy rains had fallen the night before and when we arrived at the ticket kiosk, a few minutes before the scheduled opening, we found the window half drawn and a sign stating that the museum was closed due to flooding. A worker sweeping water away from the structure, spoke with me in French and with the little bit of the language that I understand, I gathered that maybe it would be open later in the day.

As we stood there, trying to figure out an alternative plan, we watched many people arrive, read the sign and walk away, thus proving what a popular attraction it actually is.

Deciding on a boat ride down the Seine, we were on our return when I noticed that we were approaching the Pont D’Alma bridge. Taking to the top deck, I watched for the Musée des Égouts’ kiosk…the window was open and there was a small line!

Making our way back to the kiosk and purchasing our tickets, we were soon descending the stairs to the museum.

The first thing that you notice when entering the museum is the strong smell. Of course, there are billions of gallons of water, filled with raw sewage, rushing through here each minute, so of course it is to be expected. Breathing shallowly, I tried not to think about it and enjoyed learning about the workings of the sewer system and just overall being someplace where most people don’t ever get to go!

The museum showcases equipment used throughout the system and highlights the history of how running water came to be so long ago in Paris. All signage is in both French and English and the 500 meter path is easy to follow and decently lit.

At the end of the self-guided tour, there is a small gift shop (in the event your need a stuffed rat, to remind you of your visit) and restrooms.

For the Paris visitor who has seen it all, the Musee des Egouts is a wonderful way to get a different perspective of the city. And…for the first time visitor, squeeze it in between your visit to the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower…it takes less than an hour and is something interesting that you can tell your friends at home about!

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Musée des Égouts de Paris

http://www.egouts.tenebres.eu/visite.php
Address: Pont de l’Alma, place de la R�sistance, face au 93 quai d’Orsay.
75007 Paris
Hours: May 1 until September 30, 1100-1700, October 1 until April 30, 1100-1600
Admission: Adults, €4.20, Children (ages 6-16 years), €3.40, Children (under 6), free
Getting There: Metro, Line 9, Alma-Marceau station. RER train, Line C, Pont de L’Alma station. Bus, lines 63 and 80 at Alma-Marceau stop.

Seafaring on the Seine

The Seine has always played an important role in Paris.

Two Olympic games’ events were held here in the early 1900s.

The river divides the city into the two different areas, the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) and the Right Bank (Rive Droite), both with very distinct personalities.

Beautiful architecture, in the form of bridges, cross many areas of the tributary…some of the most noteworthy are Pont Neuf, Pont D’Austerlitz, Pont St. Michel, Pont Des Invalides, Pont Marie, Pont du Carrousel, Pont Royal, Pont Alexandre III, Pont de Bir-Hakeim.

The Seine provides a means of transportation and entertainment…maritime river vessels transport goods through the city and boats carry passengers on sight-seeing voyages and dinner cruises up and down the waterway.

Every year, millions of visitors arrive in Paris, hoping to see the city from all angles. At some point during their visit, most make their way to the Seine…walking along the river and taking in views of the Eiffel Tower or crossing the river to access other parts of the city.

One of the most popular attractions in Paris are the bateau-mouches, or river boats and there are a few different companies to choose from, including Vedettes de Paris, Bateaux Mouches and Bateaux Parisiennes. Having only cruised on one of these companies, Bateaux Mouches, I really did not have much of an opinion on why one would be better than the others. Same sights, different boats, right?

Recently, my son and I decided to make good on a boat ride. On his thirteenth birthday trip to Paris, we had planned to take a river cruise one evening. It was extremely cold and windy and other activities encroached on our time. Leaving Paris knowing we had missed out on one of the prime ways to see the city, we were quite disappointed. While he was with me in Paris again, we were definitely not going to miss out.

Taking a walk towards the Eiffel Tower, it was almost lunch time. Grabbing sandwiches, our plan was to take the next departure on the closest boat company, Bateaux Parisiennes, and have our lunch on the boat…only, our plan did not work. We just missed the boat and had to eat our lunch while waiting for the next one to depart. Lesson learned…make sure you know the departure times.

Boarding the Bateaux Parisiennes boat, I was quite impressed with the accommodations. Instead of rows of seats, all facing foward, there were small seating areas near the windows and a raised row of seats at the center to accommodate larger crowds, all covered in a nice, light-colored woodgrain. Many television monitors were strategically placed throughout the boat showing upcoming scenery and retractable handsets offered a detailed commentary of the passing attractions. A stairway at the center of the boat led to the top of the boat where benches lined the exterior for those (like us) willing the brave the misty afternoon. There was also a vending area at the rear of the bottom level with soft drinks and snacks available and the boat was extremely neat and clean.

Passing the famous buildings and attractions, we decided to brave the misty weather and go to the top of the boat for a while. Coasting by Jardin des Tuileries, The Louvre, Musee D’Orsay, and finally Ile de La Cité, where Notre Dame presides in all of its glory, we had a prime view of the famous landmarks and the upper deck almost to ourselves as we glided under the beautiful bridges that cross the Seine.

The boat finally rounded Ile de La Cité and began it’s return journey.

As we passed our starting point and admired the Eiffel Tower, I assumed we were on our way to Swan Island to make the turn and view the Statue of Liberty. Sadly, though I remember seeing the Statue of Liberty on previous trips, we did not go that far and returned to our starting point.

After docking, we were free to leave and continue our exploration on foot along the Seine.

When visiting the beautiful city of Paris, grab some snacks and drinks and head down to the Seine. Try one of the river boats and see the city from a different perspective! Or better yet, try one of the dinner cruises on their restaurant boats! Night or day, it’s a lovely way to enjoy the city.

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Bateaux Parisiennes

http://www.bateauxparisiens.com/english.html
Address: Port de la Bourdonnais, 75007 Paris, France (just in front of the Eiffel Tower)
Hours: October-March, 1030-2200, departures approximately every hour. April-September, 1000-2230 (2300, Aug), departures approximately every half hour. Additional departures from Notre Dame from April-November. See website for more detailed information.
Admission: €15
Getting There: Metro, Line 6, Bir-Hakeim stop, Line 9, Trocadero stop, Bus 42, 92, RER, Line C, Champs de Mars – Tour Eiffel stop

The Dead Residents

Paris has many beautiful and interesting cemeteries.

Pere Lachaise, the largest and most famous, is located in the 20th arrondissement of Paris. Established in 1804, by Napoleon, the cemetery is notorious for its famous inhabitants, including Irish novelist, poet and playwright, Oscar Wilde, French singer, Edith Pilaf, Italian painter and sculptor, Amedeo Modigliani, Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, French playwright, Moliere, Opera singer, Maria Callas, and American singer and songwriter, Jim Morrison.

Known as the first big cemetery outside the city walls of Paris, it is one that many visitors to Paris seek out.

Making my way from Montparnasse, it was a bit of a hike to Pere Lachaise, however, I was anxious to visit this cemetery that had been on my Paris To Do list for some time.

Arriving at the metro stop, Pere Lachaise, I found a secondary gate located just across the street. Just inside the doorway was a large map detailing the 118 acre cemetery and locations of its most famous burial sites.

Wandering along the avenues and pathways within the cemetery and its moss-covered tombs, I soon passed the main gate. Checking the posted map again, I began my search for Jim Morrison’s grave. Walking uphill and minding my steps on the cobblestones in the misty afternoon, I found the masses of gravesites and lack of signage quite confusing. Noticing the number of other people seemingly heading the same direction, I continued my quest. Finally, spotting a large group and their tour guide, one pathway over, I realized that I had found my destination.

Surrounded by a fence, The Doors’ lead singer’s grave was a bit of an anticlimax. Pere Lachaise cemetery is filled with many elaborate, large-scale mausoleums and crypts. Jim Morrison’s was very minimal though covered with flowers. A constant stream of visitors came and went as I stood there. Noticing a tree, next to the fenced area, covered in bamboo, I approached it and began reading the many notes inscribed on each of the bamboo slats and inspecting the mementos slipped between the slats. Forty-five years after his death, it’s obvious that Mr. Morrison has left a lasting impression on the world and still has many fans to this day.

Leaving the grave and making my way uphill toward the rear of Pere Lachaise, my next destination was the burial site of Oscar Wilde. Not very difficult to find, but requiring a bit of stamina, Mr. Wilde’s tomb is a modern structure designed by sculptor Jacob Epstein.

Surrounded by Plexiglas, I was surprised to see many bright red lipstick marks on the barrier. A sign on the barrier states that anyone caught defacing the tomb or the barrier is subject to a fine. Not sure about the marks, I did some research and found that since the 1990’s, female fans began leaving lipstick marks on the tomb…so many, in fact, that the outward appearance of the sculpture had a red appearance. Many cleanings were required, each rendering the stone more porous and thus requiring more in-depth cleanings which further damaged the tomb. After the Plexiglas barrier was erected, fans have continued to leave “kisses” for the creator of The Importance of Being Earnest.

As the close of the cemetery approached, I wandered throughout the cemetery, admiring the old crumbling tombstones, the grandiose chapels and intricate sculptures. Passing the Communard’s Wall, where one hundred forty-seven combatants of the Paris Commune were shot and thrown into an open trench a the foot of the wall in 1871, the Crematorium, Mausoleum and the Monument Eleve Par Etats, which contains the bones of 2500 soldiers, killed in action during the Siege of Paris from 1870-1871, I retraced my steps to the exit.

With the misty rain gaining momentum and the closing hour near, it was time to leave the peaceful graveyard. Knowing that I had concentrated on two of the major burial sites, a mental note was made of the ones that I was unable to locate on this visit.

Another tidbit I discovered while researching the cemetery after my visit…take the metro to Gambetta and enter the cemetery’s gate northeast of the Crematorium, making your walk through the cemetery a downhill one.

With so much to discover, whichever way you enter to historic memorial park, you won’t be disappointed.

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Pere Lachaise Cemetery

http://www.perelachaisecemetery.com/
Address: 16 rue du Repos, 75020 Paris, France (Belleville / Père Lachaise)
Hours: November 6-March 15, Monday-Saturday, 0800-1730, Sundays and Holidays, 0900-1730. March 16-November 5, 0800-1800, Sundays and Holidays, 0900-1800.
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro stops, Pere Lachaise, Gambetta

Calling All Dan Brown Fans

A note on display in the church of St. Sulpice in Paris reads:

Contrary to fanciful allegations in a recent best-selling novel, this (the line in the floor) is not a vestige of a pagan temple. No such temple ever existed in the place. It was never called a Rose Line. It does not coincide with the meridian traced through the middle of the Paris Observatory which serves as a reference for maps where longitudes are measured in degrees East or West of Paris. Please also note that the letters “P” and “S” in the small round windows at both ends of the transept refer to Peter and Sulpice, the patron saints of the church, and not an imaginary “Priory of Sion”.

If you are a fan of Dan Brown’s 2003 novel, The Da Vince Code, then, this note will make complete sense. Since the release of the international bestseller and the subsequent movie, crowds of tourists have flocked to Saint-Sulpice, in the City of Lights, to see the Rose Line.

Admittedly, though a fan of churches, this is the real reason that I decided to visit St. Sulpice…not because it is the second largest church in the city (behind Notre Dame), not because the Marquis de Sade was baptized here or even to hear the renowned organists.

I wanted to see what the heck Dan Brown was talking about!

St. Sulpice, a Roman Catholic church in the Luxembourg Quarter, was founded in 1646 by parish priest Jean-Jacques Olier and the first stone was laid by Anne of Austria.

The Late Baroque church was built over the span of a decade with construction beginning in 1646. Various architects contributed to the multitude of designs and the interior structure was completed in 1745. Damaged and turned into a Temple of Victory during the Revolution, it was restored and redecorated in the 19th century.

Known for being the site of the christenings of Marquis de Sade and Charles Baudelaire and the wedding of author Victor Hugo, it is also known for its resplendent artwork and chapels.

Most noteworthy are the Delacroix frescoes in the Chapel of the Angels and Servandoni’s Rococo Chapel of the Madonna, with a Pigalle statue of the Virgin. Another chapel contains the tomb of Curé Languet de Gergy who founded the world’s first pediatric hospital and oversaw the completion of the house of worship. To the right of the entrance, take note of the two halves of an enormous shell. Functioning as holy water fonts, these were given to King Francis I by the Venetion Republic and rest on rock-like bases sculpted by Jean-Baptiste Pigalle.

The main focus of the church is its organ. One of the world’s largest, with 6,588 pipes, it was constructed by Aristide Cavaille-Coll, the case was designed by Chalgrin and the statues were made by Clodion. Having been played by many famous musicians, it is still known for its music and many concerts are still held in St. Sulpice to this day.

Once you’ve checked out these fascinating aspects of the church, it is time to see what Dan Brown referred to in his book.

Near the middle of the nave on the right side, near a stone statue with a Latin inscription, look for the meridian line…a narrow brass strip that runs north across the nave and transept to an obelisk next to the statue of St. Peter. Used to study the planets and determine the date of Easter each year, it works when the sun’s rays enter the church through a small opening in the south transept and rest on the line at various points throughout the year. On the winter solstice, the rays hit the obelisk. On the spring and autumn equinoxes, the rays hit the bronze table.

The Da Vinci Code depicts an important scene in St. Sulpice which takes place around the meridian line. An albino monk. Silas, searches for a keystone which is believed to unlock the secret of the Holy Grail. In the book, the meridian line is described as the Rose Line and explained as being the original zero-longitude line which passed through Paris before being moved to Greenwich, England. The monk, follows the line to the obelisk, only to find that he was misled in his search.

The meridian line was easy to find and there were many other visitors also taking a peek.

Envisioning the scene, it took me back to 2003 when I read the book in two days, so captivated by its story. I almost expected to see Silas, not only a monk, but an assassin, attacking Sister Sandrine!

Captivated by St. Sulpice, I spent more time walking around its interior and making sure not to miss any part of its beauty and history.

Exiting the building, I longed to see the fountain, designed by Visconti and which bears the sculptures of the four bishops of the Louis XIV era…Fenelon, Massillon, Bossuet and Flechier, however, a Christmas market was being set up in the square in front of the church. The area around the fountain and market was barricaded, not only prohibiting a close-up look at the fountain, but a wider-angled views of the façade of the church and its two mismatched towers.

When in the Luxembourg Quarter, in the 6th arrondissement, follow the signs (or the Rose Line!) to St. Sulpice. Dan Brown or not, it is a church most worth visiting in Paris!

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St. Sulpice Church

http://pss75.fr/saint-sulpice-paris/
Address: Place Saint-Sulpice, 2, rue Palatine, 75006 PARIS
Hours: Daily, 0730-1930
Admission: free
Masses are held Monday-Saturday, 0700, 0900, 1205, and 1845; Sunday, 0700, 0900, 1030, 1205, 1845
How to Get There: Metro stop, Saint-Sulpice. Buses 58, 63, 70, 86, 87, 89, and 95 stop near the church.