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A note on display in the church of St. Sulpice in Paris reads:
Contrary to fanciful allegations in a recent best-selling novel, this (the line in the floor) is not a vestige of a pagan temple. No such temple ever existed in the place. It was never called a Rose Line. It does not coincide with the meridian traced through the middle of the Paris Observatory which serves as a reference for maps where longitudes are measured in degrees East or West of Paris. Please also note that the letters “P” and “S” in the small round windows at both ends of the transept refer to Peter and Sulpice, the patron saints of the church, and not an imaginary “Priory of Sion”.
If you are a fan of Dan Brown’s 2003 novel, The Da Vince Code, then, this note will make complete sense. Since the release of the international bestseller and the subsequent movie, crowds of tourists have flocked to Saint-Sulpice, in the City of Lights, to see the Rose Line.
Admittedly, though a fan of churches, this is the real reason that I decided to visit St. Sulpice…not because it is the second largest church in the city (behind Notre Dame), not because the Marquis de Sade was baptized here or even to hear the renowned organists.
I wanted to see what the heck Dan Brown was talking about!
St. Sulpice, a Roman Catholic church in the Luxembourg Quarter, was founded in 1646 by parish priest Jean-Jacques Olier and the first stone was laid by Anne of Austria.
The Late Baroque church was built over the span of a decade with construction beginning in 1646. Various architects contributed to the multitude of designs and the interior structure was completed in 1745. Damaged and turned into a Temple of Victory during the Revolution, it was restored and redecorated in the 19th century.
Known for being the site of the christenings of Marquis de Sade and Charles Baudelaire and the wedding of author Victor Hugo, it is also known for its resplendent artwork and chapels.
Most noteworthy are the Delacroix frescoes in the Chapel of the Angels and Servandoni’s Rococo Chapel of the Madonna, with a Pigalle statue of the Virgin. Another chapel contains the tomb of Curé Languet de Gergy who founded the world’s first pediatric hospital and oversaw the completion of the house of worship. To the right of the entrance, take note of the two halves of an enormous shell. Functioning as holy water fonts, these were given to King Francis I by the Venetion Republic and rest on rock-like bases sculpted by Jean-Baptiste Pigalle.
The main focus of the church is its organ. One of the world’s largest, with 6,588 pipes, it was constructed by Aristide Cavaille-Coll, the case was designed by Chalgrin and the statues were made by Clodion. Having been played by many famous musicians, it is still known for its music and many concerts are still held in St. Sulpice to this day.
Once you’ve checked out these fascinating aspects of the church, it is time to see what Dan Brown referred to in his book.
Near the middle of the nave on the right side, near a stone statue with a Latin inscription, look for the meridian line…a narrow brass strip that runs north across the nave and transept to an obelisk next to the statue of St. Peter. Used to study the planets and determine the date of Easter each year, it works when the sun’s rays enter the church through a small opening in the south transept and rest on the line at various points throughout the year. On the winter solstice, the rays hit the obelisk. On the spring and autumn equinoxes, the rays hit the bronze table.
The Da Vinci Code depicts an important scene in St. Sulpice which takes place around the meridian line. An albino monk. Silas, searches for a keystone which is believed to unlock the secret of the Holy Grail. In the book, the meridian line is described as the Rose Line and explained as being the original zero-longitude line which passed through Paris before being moved to Greenwich, England. The monk, follows the line to the obelisk, only to find that he was misled in his search.
The meridian line was easy to find and there were many other visitors also taking a peek.
Envisioning the scene, it took me back to 2003 when I read the book in two days, so captivated by its story. I almost expected to see Silas, not only a monk, but an assassin, attacking Sister Sandrine!
Captivated by St. Sulpice, I spent more time walking around its interior and making sure not to miss any part of its beauty and history.
Exiting the building, I longed to see the fountain, designed by Visconti and which bears the sculptures of the four bishops of the Louis XIV era…Fenelon, Massillon, Bossuet and Flechier, however, a Christmas market was being set up in the square in front of the church. The area around the fountain and market was barricaded, not only prohibiting a close-up look at the fountain, but a wider-angled views of the façade of the church and its two mismatched towers.
When in the Luxembourg Quarter, in the 6th arrondissement, follow the signs (or the Rose Line!) to St. Sulpice. Dan Brown or not, it is a church most worth visiting in Paris!
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St. Sulpice Church
- http://pss75.fr/saint-sulpice-paris/
- Address: Place Saint-Sulpice, 2, rue Palatine, 75006 PARIS
- Hours: Daily, 0730-1930
- Admission: free
- Masses are held Monday-Saturday, 0700, 0900, 1205, and 1845; Sunday, 0700, 0900, 1030, 1205, 1845
- How to Get There: Metro stop, Saint-Sulpice. Buses 58, 63, 70, 86, 87, 89, and 95 stop near the church.