united kingdom – Snapping The Globe

Ted Obsessed!

Last fall, while attending my friend’s annual Halloween party, I was stumped.

While most people’s costumes are easily identifiable, there was one group’s that was not.

All dressed in blue and red sweats, one of the girls had a mustache and a whistle. I assumed she was some sports figure, but I had no idea which and neither did my husband.

A few beers later, I finally had the courage to admit to “mustache girl” that I could not figure out what her costume was all about. Ted Lasso. We still did not know who that was, since we did not have Apple TV and strangely enough, neither of us had never seen any ads for the television series either. It was totally off our radar!

Ted Lasso virgins…yes we were!

A couple of months later, while perusing my subscriptions, I discovered that we had been signed up for an Apple TV trial. I didn’t remember doing this and planned to cancel…until I remembered Ted Lasso. I decided to hold off, because maybe, just maybe, we could watch it…but only after we had finished watching Game of Thrones (yes, we were very late to that game too!).

Once the Nightwalkers had been defeated and Daenerys’ dragon had wreaked havoc upon King’s Landing, my husband and I needed a new series to watch together. Impatiently, we flipped through, Netflix, Hulu, Amazon Prime, Showtime and HBO, realizing how different our tastes are, until I remembered that we had not canceled that Apple TV subscription.

It was a Saturday afternoon and we were toying with the idea of getting dressed and going out to dinner. With a little time to kill, we decided to see what Ted Lasso was all about. The episodes were pretty short…we could get one in to get the gist of it.

Eight episodes later, with some Chinese takeout for dinner, we were hooked.

While watching Ted walk near his apartment, I wondered (out loud) where the show was filmed. The little square and the pub near Ted’s flat were so picturesque! My husband suggested that since I would be in London that week, I should look it up. With a few clicks on Google, I easily found the location! Richmond…only 9 stops from my hotel!

Needless to say, Sunday afternoon was spent finishing Season One and beginning Season Two. Obsessed was what you could now call us!

Arriving to a beautiful morning in London two days later, I took a quick nap and headed to catch the tube’s District line to Richmond. My Google map on my phone was marked with the location of the pub that Ted frequents, Richmond green and some other interesting locations in the area.

Forty-five minutes later, I was walking out of the Richmond transit station and down the road toward my destination. Turning onto Golden Court, I spied Richmond Green up ahead and on the corner, to my left, the Prince’s Head pub, the location of Ted’s and other character’s favorite hangout, called The Crown and Anchor on the show. Exiting onto the lovely small square, complete with red telephone booths, I couldn’t believe that just a week before, I had no idea that any of this existed!

Spotting the small alleyway to the left of the pub, I realized that this is where Ted’s apartment is located. Because of some prior research, I had learned that although his apartment on the show is number 9 1/2, it is, in actuality, a small shop with a different number! Paved Court is a quaint little pedestrian street, filled with colorful doorways, shops and an ideal place for having a coffee or grabbing some empanadas from Chango’s…perfect for my lunch the next day.

Crossing the street toward Richmond Green, where Ted and Coach Beard watch the local children play soccer, I spotted a sign which informed me that a couple of the buildings, that I had marked on my map, were part of the Richmond Palace, just across the street. The Richmond Palace was a royal residence during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries and replaced the former royal residence of Sheen. Only nine miles from the Palace of Westminster, it was built in 1501 by Henry VII of England. Henry VIII lived in the palace, until moving to Hampton Court Palace, as well as his fourth wife, Anne of Cleves (after their divorce). Not much of Richmond Palace remains, however, after walking through the old gate into the Old Palace Yard, I spotted the Old Gate House, The Trumpeter’s Lodge and the Trumpeter’s House. All of the remaining structures are private residences and not open to the public.

*Old Richmond Palace, the Trumpeter’s House and the Trumpeter’s Lodge*

Following signs pointing to the river, I was in search of the area where Ted Lasso characters Keeley and Roy walked for their first date. As I neared the banks of the Thames, I realized how high the water was. The sun was low in the sky, creating an amazing setting, so I decided to stroll along the walkway towards the Richmond War Memorial. The water was over the banks and lapping along the walkway and I noticed a gentleman peering over the adjacent fence.

“You can’t go that way”.

“Hmmm? Me?”

“Yes, it’s blocked.”

I noticed the water had covered part of the walkway up ahead but a few people were walking my way from that direction. I decided to ignore this man, who, no doubt was giving me false information. Pretending to study my phone, I continued forward, until the three gentleman reached me.

“It’s blocked. The water is really high and you won’t make it unless you swim!”

So, he wasn’t lying!

As I turned around, I realized how fast the water was rising! Now covering the walkway entirely, I had a bit of a problem. The guys tried to run through the grass, not understanding how high the water was there as well, so I just popped off my shoes and waded through freezing ankle deep waters. Thank goodness I never fell off the Titanic, because I could barely walk back to Old Palace Lane. That water felt like piercing needles!

Frozen feet needed to be defrosted! Back to the Prince’s Head I went and secured a table in the front near the bar. Ordering a Guinness, I watched as a CNN crew disassembled their equipment in the corner and some of the pub regulars wondered aloud if they were there to promote the show. Though I desperately wanted to ask the bartender a billion questions, I also didn’t want to appear as a tourist, which was probably harder to disguise than I thought.

*The Prince’s Head pub, a.k.a. The Crown and Anchor*

The Guinness was delicious, warmed me to the core and rested my feet enough to head…the long way around…back to the Richmond War Memorial.

Taking Paved Court, I headed to King Street and then back to Petersham Road, taking a turn at the Museum of Richmond and the Old Town Hall. The Richmond War Memorial, located higher up (thank goodness) on the banks of the Thames was unveiled on November 23, 1921 and is dedicated to those local individuals who died fighting in World Wars I and II.

*Richmond Riverfront area near the Richmond War Memorial*

Though I would have loved to have visited one of the many restaurants along the riverfront, prior plans had to take me back in London!

Two weeks have passed since my visit to Richmond. I am watching the final episode of Season 2. My husband probably regrets reminding me that I would be in London after our foray into Ted Lasso Land. I keep pointing out the locations that I saw…the exact table I sat at at the Prince’s Head was where Ted, Keeley, Rebecca and her mother sat during lunch…Ted and Coach Beard walking past Chango’s…those were delectable empanadas!

If you are a Ted Lasso fan…well…you know what to do!

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The Prince’s Head

Address: 28 The Green, Richmond TW9 1LX, United Kingdom
Hours: 1200-2300, Monday through Saturday, 1200-2230, Sunday
Admission: free
Getting There: London Metro, District Line towards Richmond.

The Old Richmond Palace

Address: Richmond TW9 1PA, United Kingdom
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: London Metro, District Line towards Richmond.

Richmond War Memorial

Address: Whittaker Avenue, Richmond, TW9 1EH, United Kingdom
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: London Metro, District Line towards Richmond.

Chango’s Empanadas

Address: 3 Paved Court, Richmond TW9 1LZ, United Kingdom
Hours: 1000-1900, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: London Metro, District Line towards Richmond.

My Favourite Palace

Fascinated by Britain’s Royal family?

Many people love to follow the Royal family. Though I am not one of them, I do enjoy seeing the way others live, including the Royal family.

Never having had the opportunity to procure tickets to Buckingham Palace, I have, however, had the opportunity to visit Kensington Palace, Windsor Castle, Hampton Court and the Palace of Holyroodhouse. It is quite interesting to view the ornate rooms and learn of the history of those who resided in these opulant manors.

In London, with time to kill, I decided that I had to venture out into the cold, but clear day. The sky was a vivid blue and although frigid, it was enjoyable to venture down High Street with no particular destination in mind. Soon finding myself in Kensington Gardens, drawn in by the sparkling lake and well manicured lawn, I stood before Kensington Palace.

Having seen the Oscar nominated movie, The Favourite, I was intrigued to learn that an exhibit on the movie’s costumes was being held within the palace.

Why not?

Paying my admission, I began my re-exploration of the royal residence that has been in the family since the 17th century and is currently the official London residence of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge (William and Kate), the Duke and Duchess of Sussex (Harry and Meghan), Princess Eugenie and her husband, Jack Brooksbank, the Duke and Duchess of Glouchester, the Duke and Duchess of Kent and Prince and Princess Michael of Kent.

Though you won’t see any of these high profile residents roaming the halls, it is interesting to venture through the State Rooms which display many paintings and other objects from the Royal Collection.

The self guided tour directed me through the King’s State Apartments, which were the public rooms where George II and Queen Caroline entertained important guests. In the early 1700s, the King and Queen moved into the palace after the death of his father George I. Grand parties were hosted here in the lavish rooms and you can take note of the elaborate murals and paintings that grace the walls and ceilings.

Moving through the King’s Gallery, I learned that it was refurbished by George II after his arrival and was intended as a gallery for the finest pictures of the Royal Collection. The Cupola Room was used for entertaining more than official business and was the site of musical performance dancing and gambling.

Arriving at the Queen’s Apartments, the oldest part of the palace, it was here that Queen Mary II, who ruled with her husband, King Willam III in the 17th century, spent much of her time. Many portraits of William III, Mary II, Charles I and Henry VIII were hung in the Privy Chamber by Caroline to reinforce the German born couple’s legitimate right to the British throne.

The red damask covered Presence Chamber, offered a look at the space where King George II received ambassadors, men of ideas and ordinary people. An audience with the King could change a person’s life and many were brought here asking for favors or seeking royal approval. In 1734, the King and Queen received an Indian chief and his attendants from the new Americas colony, Georgia.

The Queen’s Drawing Room was where Mary spent much of her time. Her beautifully adorned bed can be seen in the Queen’s Bedroom and was where Mary’s half-brother may have been born at St. James’ Palace in 1688.

The Dining Room was a bit smaller than I imagined and possibly the place where Mary took in her meals when she desired privacy. Moving through the Queen’s closet, I learned of the story of how Mary contracted smallpox, dying and leaving William to rule alone.

Finally, it was in the extended Gallery where I finally discovered the exhibition of the costumes from The Favourite. Though there were some paper mache duplications that I had encountered in the King’s State Apartments, it was here that the actual costumes were on display. It was quite thrilling to see them up close and remember the scenes that they played a vital role.

Princess Diana, though now gone for almost twenty-two years, has remained fondly in the memory of the world. The palace recognizes that there are many who are still fascinated with her lifestyle and legacy and I was glad to see the permanent exhibit, Diana, Her Fashion Story was still available for viewing. Pictures of Diana grace the walls, along with quotes and stories, however, it is the glass cases that contain the showstoppers…a large number of Diana’s outfits worn for various occasions. Each outfit contains a placard and picture that describes the occasion worn as well as the designer of the ensemble.

The last room that we were able to inspect contained some of the royal jewels, including Queen Victoria’s Emerald Necklace, Earrings and Broach, The Fife Diamond Tiara, given to Princess Louise, Queen Victoria’s granddaughter, by her husband, the Duke of Fife and Princess Louise’s Diamond Necklace Tiara, gifts from her parents which can also be transformed into a necklace.

Eventually, I made my way through the gift shop and out into the gardens. Though the pond was drained for winter maintenance and nothing was in bloom, it was interesting to stop and imagine what it might look like in a couple of months with the approaching warmer weather.

With an hour of so of daylight remaining, I decided to make the most of the afternoon and walked out to the lake. Hundreds of birds, including graceful swans swam through the cold water looking for a handout from the children who had come prepared with bags of bread crusts. Though I am a bit afraid of the aggressive, feathered creatures, it was nice to capture some close-up photographs.

Eventually, with waning light, it was time to head back to High Street to search for dinner. Though I had visited the Palace a few years prior, it was nice to see it once again and especially to enjoy The Favourite exhibition.

Makes me want to go and see the movie again!

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Kensington Palaceh

https://www.hrp.org.uk/kensington-palace/#gs.1yxbr4
Address: Kensington Gardens, London W8 4PX, UK
Hours: Daily, 1000-1800, last admission, 1700
Admission: Adults, £19.50, Children, £9.70
Getting There: London Underground, High Street Kensington Station, Circle and District lines and 10-15 minute walk. Queensway Station, Central line and 10-15 minute walk, Notting Hill Station, Central, Circle and District lines and 20-25 minute walk. Bus, routes 70, 94, 148, 390 (to Bayswater Road) and
routes 9, 10, 49, 52, 70, 452 (to Kensington High Street).

Churchill’s Hideout

Last week, I saw the movie, “Darkest Hour” and a few week’s before that, “Dunkirk”. History is not my strongest suit, despite my love of museums, but having visited the Churchill War Rooms in London recently, everything that happened during that time frame suddenly made sense to the muddled historic timeline in my head!

One of the five branches of the Imperial War Museums, the Churchill War Rooms, opened to the public in 1984, includes the Cabinet War Rooms, the historic underground complex that housed the British government center throughout World War II and the Churchill Museum, dedicated to the life of former prime minister Winston Churchill.

As Hitler threatened the world, Britain began construction on the Cabinet War Rooms, located below the Treasury building in Westminster in 1938. Just before the war broke out in Europe, operations were moved in and remained throughout the Second World War until the surrender of Japan.

The Churchill War Rooms offer a self guided tour through each of the areas used by British intelligence and more importantly, the prime minister of the time, Winston Churchill.

Watching the movie, it was quite thrilling to see the Map Room, which was used continually by the officers of the Royal Navy, British Army and Royal Air Force who produced a daily intelligence summary for the King, Prime Minister and the military Chiefs of Staff. The other room I recognized was the Cabinet Room, from which Churchill visited in 1940 and famously declared, “This is the room from which I will direct the war.” And that he did. 115 Cabinet meetings, in all, were held in the Cabinet War Rooms.

The facility included living and sleeping areas for the staff, bedrooms for the military officers and senior ministers and rooms for the typists and telephone switchboard operators. The prime minister also spent much of his time below ground working, despite the fact that the rooms were not entirely immune to the bombing raids that continually rained devastation upon the city.

Also interesting to observe were the Transatlantic Telephone Room and Churchill’s office-bedroom, both preserved much as they were left. Noticing a small sign which instructed visitors to walk to the end of one of the hallways, it also gave instructions to check out a doorway on the left. Though it only appeared to be the entrance to a bathroom, there wasn’t much else to clue anyone in as to its importance. As I entered the next room, one of the volunteers, asked me if I had noticed the doorway. Since I didn’t seem to know anything about it, he proceeded to tell me about a scene in the movie to watch for when Winston Churchill retired to what appeared to be a restroom. A glass wall, around the corner, offered a glimpse into the pseudo bathroom…it was actually a small room outfitted with a SIGSALY code-scrambling encrypted telephone connected directly with the Pentagon in Washington, D.C. This modest space offered the prime minister privacy and a direct line to speak with American President Roosevelt.

The other major part of the exhibit was the Churchill Museum. A large detailed space, it offered a look into Churchill’s life from his birth, to his military career, his political career and finally retirement.

Whether you are a fan of the two-time prime minister or a history buff, the Churchill War Rooms does not cease to please. Take a couple of hours and head on over to the place in London that made a huge impact on World War II.

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Churchill War Rooms

https://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/churchill-war-rooms
Address: Clive Steps, King Charles St, Westminster, London SW1A 2AQ, UK
Hours: Daily, 0930-1800
Admission: Adult, £21.00, Children under 5, free, Children ages 5-15, £10.50, Family ticket (2 adults, 1 child) £35.70, Family ticket (2 adults, 2 children) £53.55, Concessions, £16.80. Audio guides included in admission price.
Getting There: Metro, Westminster station